MRS.    LINCOLN'S 

BOSTON    COOK    BOOK. 


MRS.    LINCOLN'S 


BOSTON  COOK  BOOK. 


WHAT  TO  DO  AND   WHAT  NOT  TO  DO 
IN  COOKING. 


BY 

MRS.   MARY  J.  LINCOLN, 

FIRST  PRINCIPAL  OF  THE  BOSTON  COOKING  SCHOOL,  AND  CULINARY 
EDITOR  OF  "THE  AMERICAN  KITCHEN  MAGAZINE." 

AUTHOR  OF 

''  CARVING  AND  SERVING,"  "  BOSTON  SCHOOL  KITCHEN  TEXT-BOOK," 

"TWENTY  LESSONS  IN  COOKERY,"  "THE  PEERLESS  COOK  BOOK," 

AND  "  A  COOK  BOOK  FOR  A  MONTH  AT  A  TIME." 


Kcftfee*  Ztoftfon. 

CONTAINING  OVER  2 JO  ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


BOSTON: 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND   COMPANY. 
1903. 


"  Not  to  know  at  large  of  things  remote 
From  use,  obscure  and  subtle,  but  to  know 
That  which  before  us  lies  in  daily  life, 
Is  the  prime  wisdom." 


MILTON. 


"  To  know  what  you  do  know,  and  not  to  know  what  you  do  not 
know,  is  true  knowledge." —  CONFUCIUS. 


PREFACE  TO  THE  REVISED   EDITION 


WHEN  the  "Boston  Cook  Book"  was  first  published, 
cooking  schools  were  in  their  infancy,  and  some  sugges- 
tions as  to  their  management  were  included  in  its  pages. 
But  now,  after  sixteen  years'  dissemination  of  these  sug- 
gestions, it  seems  no  longer  advisable  to  include  them  in 
a  cook  book.  Therefore,  in  making  this  first  revision  of 
my  book  I  have  utilized  the  pages  previously  devoted  to 
this  subject  and  to  the  general  index,  which  is  superfluous, 
as  the  alphabetical  index  is  so  comprehensive,  also  the 
blank  spaces  at  the  end  of  some  chapters,  for  about  three 
hundred  additional  recipes,  and  this  without  increasing  the 
size  or  the  price. 

The  subject  of  each  section  forms  the  heading  of  the 
page. 

Since  granulated  gelatine  and  baking  powder  are  now 
so  universally  used,  the  proportions  of  each  are  given 
where  needed.  Recipes  for  many  new  food  products  are 
inserted,  and  many  minor  changes  made  in  the  text. 

This  revised  edition  is  not  the  new  book  which  has  been 
in  preparation  for  some  time.  Unavoidable  delays  in  the 
completion  of  the  latter  and  the  large  demand  for  extra 
copies  from  many  persons  who  have  worn  out  their  first 


viii  Preface  to  the  Revised  Edition. 

books  have  led  me  to  make  this  revision  of  the  "  Boston 
Cook  Book  "  now. 

The  new  book  will  contain  many  features  not  practicable 
here,  and  is  designed  not  to  supplant  but  to  supplement 
my  first  book. 

MARY  J.  LINCOLN. 

BOSTON,  MASS.,  October,  1900. 


PREFACE  TO   FIRST  EDITION. 


To  compile  a  book  which  shall  be  not  only  a  collection 
of  receipts,  given  briefly  for  the  experienced  housekeeper, 
and  with  sufficient  clearness  for  the  beginner,  but  which 
shall  also  embody  enough  of  physiology,  and  of  the  chem- 
istry and  philosoph}'  of  food,  to  make  every  principle  in- 
telligible to  a  child  and  interesting  to  the  mature  mind ; 
which  shall  serve  equally  well  for  the  cook  in  the  kitchen, 
the  pupil  in  the  school-room,  and  the  teacher  in  the  normal 
c}ass  ?  —  is  a  difficult  task.  Yet  the  need  of  a  book  of 
moderate  cost,  containing  in  a  reasonably  small  compass  all 
this  and  much  more,  has  been  seriously  felt  by  all  who  are 
engaged  in  teaching  cookery.  Moreover,  there  is  a  special 
reason  for  the  publication  of  this  work.  It  is  undertaken 
at  the  urgent  request  of  the  pupils  of  the  Boston  Cooking 
School,  who  have  desired  that  the  receipts  and  lessons 
given  during  the  last  four  years  in  that  institution  should 
be  arranged  in  a  permanent  form. 

To  one  who  from  childhood  has  been  trained  in  all  de- 
tails of  housework,  learning  by  observation  or  by  actual 
experience  much  that  it  is  impossible  to  receive  from 
books,  the  amount  of  ignorance  shown  by  many  women  is 
surprising.  That  a  person  of  ordinary  intelligence  pre- 
siding over  her  household  can  be  satisfied  with  only  a 
vague  conception  of  the  common  domestic  methods,  or 
that  any  true  woman  can  see  anything  degrading  in  any 
labor  necessary  for  the  highest  physical  condition  of  her 


x  Preface. 

family,  would  be  incredible  if  the  truth  of  it  were  not 
daily  manifest. 

Happily,  popular  opinion  now  decides  that  no  young 
lady's  education  is  complete  without  a  course  of  training 
in  one  or  more  branches  of  domestic  work.  And  those 
who  are  not  so  fortunate  as  to  have  the  best  of  all  train- 
ing—  that  of  actual  work  under  a  wise  and  competent 
mother  —  gladly  resort  to  the  cooking- schools  for  in- 
struction. 

In  compiling  these  receipts  for  use  in  a  school  and  in 
the  family,  several  things  were  demanded.  In  a  school 
of  pupils  from  every  class  and  station  in  life,  a  great 
variety  of  receipts  is  desirable.  They  must  be  clear, 
but  concise,  for  those  who  are  already  well  grounded  in 
first  principles.  They  must  be  explained,  illustrated,  and 
reiterated  for  the  inexperienced  and  the  careless.  They 
must  have  a  word  of  caution  for  those  who  seem  always 
to  have  the  knack  of  doing  the  wrong  thing.  They  must 
include  the  most  healthful  foods  for  those  who  have  been 
made  ill  by  improper  food;  the  cheapest  as  well  as  the 
most  nutritious,  for  the  laboring  class ;  the  richest  and 
most  elaborately  prepared,  for  those  who  can  afford  them 
physically  as  well  as  pecuniarily. 

These  receipts  are  not  a  mere  compilation.  A  large 
portion  have  accumulated  during  a  long  period  of  house- 
keeping ;  and  many  have  been  received  from  friends  who 
are  practical  housekeepers.  Others  have  been  taken  from 
standard  authorities  on  cooking;  and  all  have  been  fre- 
quently and  thoroughly  tested  by  pupils  under  the  eye  of 
the  author.  As  far  as  possible,  acknowledgment  has  been 
made  for  the  receipts  received.  Where  changes  and  im- 
provements have  been  made,  or  where  there  were  many 
authorities  for  the  same  formula,  no  credit  has  been  given. 

Some  cook-books  presuppose  the  presence  of  an  as- 
sistant ;  but  as  three  fourths  of  the  women  in  this  country 


Preface.  xi 


do  their  own  work,  these  receipts  are  arranged  so  as  to 
require  the  attention  of  but  one  person. 

It  is  proverbial  that  young  housekeepers  are  often 
greatly  perplexed  in  attempting  to  provide  little  enough 
for  only  two.  For  their  benefit  many  of  our  receipts  are 
prepared  on  a  scale  of  smaller  measurements. 

The  materials  to  be  used  are  given  in  the  order  in  which 
the\r  are  to  be  put  together.  They  are  arranged  in  col- 
umns, where  the  eye  may  catch  them  readily,  or  in  italics 
where  economy  of  space  seemed  desirable. 

Every  caution  or  suggestion  has  been  given  at  the  re- 
quest of  some  pupil  who  failed  to  find  in  other  boobs  just 
what  she  needed  ;  or  because,  in  the  experience  of  teach- 
ing, it  has  been  shown  that,  unless  forewarned,  pupils 
inevitably  make  certain  mistakes.  Many  subjects  which 
in  other  books  are  omitted  or  given  briefly,  will  be  found 
to  have  received  here  an  extensive  treatment,  because 
they  have  seemed  of  paramount  importance. 

All  the  chemical  and  physiological  knowledge  that  is 
necessary  for  a  clear  understanding  of  the  laws  of  health, 
so  far  as  they  are  involved  in  the  science  of  cookery,  is 
given  in  this  book.  Nine  tenths  of  the  women  who  go 
through  a  scientific  course  in  seminaries  never  put  any 
of  the  knowledge  gained  into  practical  use.  By  the  time 
they  have  occasion  to  use  such  knowledge  in  their  own 
homes,  the  Chemistoy  and  Physiology  have  been  relegated 
to  the  attic,  where  they  help  mice  to  material  for  their 
nests,  but  help  no  woman  to  apply  the  principles  of 
science  upon  which  the  health  and  welfare  of  her  house- 
hold largely  depend. 

The  statement  will  appear  incredible  to  most  people, 
and  yet  it  is  true,  that  many  women  do  not  know  what 
the  simplest  things  in  our  daily  food  are  ;  cannot  tell  when 
water  boils,  or  the  difference  between  lamb  and  veal,  lard 
and  drippings.  They  cannot  give  the  names  of  kitchen 


xii  Preface. 


utensils ;  do  not  know  anything  about  a  stove,  or  how  to 
pare  a  potato.  This  will  explain  what  might  otherwise 
seem  an  unnecessary  minuteness  of  detail.  The  expe- 
rience of  such  ignorance  also  suggested  the  sub-title  of 
the  "  Boston  Cook  Book,"  —  "  What  to  do  and  what  not 
to  do  in  Cooking," — just  how  to  hold  your  bowl  and  spoon, 
to  use  your  hands,  to  regulate  your  stove,  to  wash  you* 
dishes  ;  and  just  how  not  to  fall  into  the  errors  into  which 
so  many  have  stumbled  before  you.  But,  more  than  all, 
it  is  attempted  to  give  a  reason  for  every  step  taken,  and 
a  clear  answer  to  any  questions  that  are  likely  to  arise  in 
the  experience  of  either  housekeeper  or  cook. 

A  WORD  of  grateful  acknowledgment  is  due  the  manj 
friends  who  have  aided  in  this  work. 

First,  to  my  mother  I  owe  much  for  her  excellent  judg- 
ment in  training  me  as  a  child  to  a  love  for  all  house- 
hold  work.  Although  it  was  often  hard  to  ' '  help  mother  " 
when  other  children  were  at  play,  the  knowledge  thus 
gained  has  proved  invaluable.  Every  year's  experience 
in  teaching  has  made  me  prize  more  and  more  this  earlj 
training. 

Also,  I  am  deeply  indebted  to  Miss  M.  S.  DEVEREU* 
for  the  illustrations  of  this  book.  In  all  my  work  I  have 
been  greatly  aided  by  her  suggestions  and  generous 
sympathy. 

And,  lastly,  I  would  not  forget  my  obligations  to  a  large 
circle  of  personal  friends.  Especially  would  I  remember 
the  one  who,  twenty  years  ago,  aided  me  in  making  my 
first  loaf  of  bread,  and  the  many  among  my  pupils  who, 
out  of  their  varied  experience,  have  contributed  much  that 
has  proved  helpful. 

MARY  J.   LINCOLN. 

WOLLASTON,  MASS.,  1884. 


BOOKS   OF   REFERENCE. 

AMONG  the  many  valuable  authorities  on  subjects  connected 
with  food,  the  following  have  been  consulted  in  preparing  this 
work.  The  Cook  Books  are  named,  not  according  to  their 
merit,  but  in  the  order  in  which  the  author  has  had  personal 
knowledge  of  them :  — 

Youmans's  Handbook  of  Household  Science. 

Johnston's  Chemistry  of  Common  Life. 

Wells's  Science  of  Common  Things. 

Lewes's  Physiology  of  Common  Life. 

Gray's  How  Plants  Grow. 

Dal  ton's  Physiology. 

Webster's  Dictionary. 

Food.     By  A.  H.  Church. 

Food  for  the  Invalid. 

Family  Receipt  Books  without  number;   and  Cook  Books  by 

Mrs.    Henderson,    Marion    Harland,    Mrs.    Cornelius,"    Mrs. 

Beecher,  Warne,    Francatelli,    Soyer,   Mrs.    Whitney,   Miss 

Parloa,  Mrs.  Campbell,  Miss  Corson,  Mrs.  Beeton,  and  Mrs. 

Ewing. 


CONTENTS. 


PAOl 

INTRODUCTION 1 

BREAD  AND  BREAD  MAKING 36 

RECEIPTS  FOR  YEAST  AND  BREAD 62 

RAISED  BISCUIT,  ROLLS,  ETC 68 

STALE  BREAD,  TOAST,  ETC 75 

SODA  BISCUIT,  MUFFINS,  GEMS,  ETC 80 

WAFFLES  AND  GRIDDLE-CAKES 97 

FRIED  MUFFINS,  FRITTERS,  DOUGHNUTS,  ETC 102 

OATMEAL  AND  OTHER  GRAINS 108 

BEVERAGES       Ill 

SOUP  AND  STOCK       119 

SOUP  WITHOUT  STOCK 146 

FISH 159 

SHELL  FISH 175 

MEAT  AND  FISH  SAUCES 187 

EGGS  . 197 

MEAT 210 

BEEF 214 

MUTTON  AND  LAMB 232 

VEAL 239 

PORK 245 

POULTRY  AND  GAME 251 

ENTREES  AND  MEAT  RECHAUFFE 265 

SUNDRIES  282 


xvi  Contents. 


VEGETABLES 289 

RICE  AND  MACARONI 306 

SALADS 309 

PASTRY  AND  PIES 316 

PUDDING  SAUCES 328 

HOT  PUDDINGS 331 

CUSTARDS,  JELLIES,  AND  CREAMS 341 

ICE-CREAM  AND  SHERBET 361 

CAKE 369 

FRUIT .    .    ; 391 

COOKING  FOR  INVALIDS 407 

MISCELLANEOUS  HINTS 435 

THE  DINING-ROOM 439 

THE  CARE  OF  KITCHEN  UTENSILS 443 

AN  OUTLINE  OF  STUDY  FOR  TEACHERS 449 

ADDITIONAL  RECIPES 483 

EXPLANATION  OF  TERMS  USED  IN  COOKERY 561 

ALPHABETICAL  INDEX              '.        .         .              ,    ...  567 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


PAOB 

FIG.  1.  Grain  of  Wheat .  37 

44     2.  Grain  of  Wheat  with  Bran  removed     ,     .     .     .  38 

44     3.  Grain  of  Wheat  magnified .  38 

44     4.  Yeast  Plant 46 

44     5.  Cruller 105 

44     6.  Cruller  after  Folding 105 

^4    7.  Baked  Fish 164 

44     8.  Small  Fish  served  whole 166 

44     9.  Scalloped  Lobster 183 

44  10.  Omelet 201 

44  11.  Orange  Omelet 202 

44  12.  Eggs  and  Minced  Meat 205 

<•''  13.  Stuffed  Eggs 206 

4    14.  EggsklaCreme 208 

4'-  15.  Diagram  of  Ox 212 

"  16.  Hind  Quarter  of  Beef 212 

"  17.  Aitch  Bone 214 

4'  18.  Round 215 

44  19.  Back  of  Rump 216 

"  20.  First  Cut  of  Sirloin 216 

44  21.  Sirloin  Roast 217 

44  22.  Tip  of  Sirloin 218 

44  23.  First  Cut  of  Rib 219 

44  24.  Chuck  Rib 219 

44  25.  Fillet  of  Beef 222 

44  26.  Mutton  Duck 235 

44  27.  Paper  Ruffle 236 

44  28.  Chop 237 

44  29.  Chop  in  Paper 237 


xvrii  List  of  Illustrations. 

PAGE 

FIG.  30.  Calf's  Heart 241 

44  31.  Sweetbreads  and  Bacon 243 

«*  32.  Sweetbreads  on  Macaroni 244 

"  33.  Pigeons  and  Spinach  on  Toast 264 

"  34.  Boned  Turkey,  browned 265 

"  35.  Boned  Chicken,  larded  and  baked 266 

"  36.  Chicken  in  Jelly 267 

"  37.  Meat  Porcupine -  272 

"  38.  Croquettes 279 

11  39.  Stuffed  Potatoes  .          .     .     . 296 

44  40.  Chicken  Salad 314 

"  41.  Lobster  Salad 315 

44  42.  Bow-Knots 321 

44  43.  Cheese  Straws 322 

44  44.  Apple  SnowbaUs 335 

44  45.  Orange  Charlotte 348 

44  46.  Orange  Baskets 351 

"  47.  Mould  of  Bavarian  Cream 357 

44  48.  Royal  Diplomatic  Pudding 358 

"  49.  Strawberry  Charlotte    .     .               360 

"  50.  Cookies.     ...  3H6 


LECTURES  and  PRACTICAL  TALKS 

ON 

COOKERY 


(WITH   DEMONSTRATION    IF  DESIRED) 

By  MRS.   LINCOLN 
SUBJECTS 

ART  AND  SCIENCE,  VERSUS  DRUDGERY  AND  LUCK 

IDEAL  HOUSEKEEPING 

DOMESTIC  SCIENCE 

ECONOMIC  BUYING 

RECIPROCAL  DUTIES  OF  HOSTESS  AND  GUEST 

LUNCHEON  AND  DINNER  GIVING 

FURNISHING  A  HOME 

GLIMPSES  OF  FOREIGN  HOUSEKEEPING 

PRACTICAL  TALKS  ON  THE  KITCHEN 

PRACTICAL  TALKS  ON  ALL  FORMS  OF  COOKING 


Schools,  Societies,  and  Women's  Clubs  desiring  one 
or  more  lectures  may  secure  Mrs.  Lincoln's  services  by 
applying  to  her  personally  or  by  letter. 


For  Terms,  Address  — 

MRS.   MARY  J.    LINCOLN 

204  Huntington  Avenue,  Boston,  Mass. 


COOK  BOOKS 

BY 

MRS.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN, 

Formerly  MARY  J.  BAILEY,  of  the  class  of  1864. 
Wheaton  Seminary,  Norton,  Mass., 

BOSTON   COOK  BOOK.     Illustrated,  I2mo.    Price,  $2.00. 

It  is  the  trimmest,  best  arranged,  best  ilhistrated,  most  intelligible  manual  of 
cookery  as  a  high  art,  and  as  an  economic  art,  that  has  appeared.  —  Independent. 

CARVING  AND   SERVING.    Square  I2mo.    Price,  60  cents. 

We  have  in  this  dainty  little  book,  told  clearly  and  even  entertainingly,  and 
yet  without  a  wasted  word,  practical  and  minute  directions  how  to  put  meat  on 
the  table,  how  to  cut  it  up,  and  how  to  distribute  it,  with  special  directions  about 
each  particular  dish ;  also  how  to  help  to  vegetables,  soups,  and  articles  of  des- 
sert ;  and  suggestions  about  utensils,  etc.  It  is  highly  to  be  recommended.  — 
Rev.  F.  N.  Zabriskie,  D.D. 

THE  BOSTON  SCHOOL  KITCHEN  TEXT  BOOK.  I2mo. 
Price,  $1.00. 

Lessons  in  Cooking  for  the  use  of  Teachers  and  Classes  in 
Public  and  Industrial  Schools. 

You  have  made  our  whole  country  your  debtor  by  the  composition  of  a  book 
so  much  needed,  and  so  simple,  sensible,  and  thorough.  It  will  greatly  aid  in 
making  instruction  in  the  theory  and  practice  of  cookery  a  part  of  our  school 
courses.  —  George  C.  Chase ,  Professor  of  English  Literature,  Bates  C  allege  ^ 
Leiviston,  Maine. 

THE  PEERLESS  COOK  BOOK.  Containing  four  hundred 
Receipts.  1 5  cents. 

For  sale  at  all  bookstores,  or  mailed,  postpaid,  on  receipt  of 
price,  by  the  author,  Mrs.  Mary  J.  Lincoln,  204  Huntington  Ave- 
nue, or  by  the  publishers. 

TWENTY  LESSONS  IN  COOKERY.  Compiled  from  the 
"Boston  School  Kitchen  Text  Book,"  and  printed  on  tinted 
cards.  The  set  includes  about  one  hundred  and  fifty  cooking 
receipts  and  one  card  of  rules  for  general  housework.  They  are 
used  in  the  industrial  and  public  school  cooking  classes  in  Boston, 
New  Haven,  Brooklyn,  Pittsburg,  Milwaukee,  and  other  cities. 
Price  per  set.  40  cents.  Special  reduction  to  schools  or  parties 
purchasing  over  fifty  sets. 

To  be  obtained  only  of  Little,  Brown,  and  Company,  or  of 
Mrs.  Lincoln,  204  Huntington  Avenue. 

FROZEN  DAINTIES.  To  be  obtained  of  the  White  Mountain 
Freezer  Co.,  Nashua  N.  H. 


"  A  Cook  Booh  for  a  month  at  a  time."  To  ~be  obtained  by  sending  a 
two-cent  stamp  to  MRS.  LINCOLN'S  BAKING  POWDER  CO. 
21  Commerce  Street,  Boston. 

Send  for  descriptive  catalogue,  (mailed  free). 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  &  CO.,  Boston. 


THE  BOSTON  COOK  BOOK. 


COOKERY 

COOKERY  is  the  art  of  preparing  food  for  the  nourish- 
ment of  the  human  body.  When  given  its  proper  impor- 
tance in  the  consideration  of  health  and  comfort,  it  must 
be  based  upon  scientific  principles  of  hygiene  and  what 
the  French  call  the  minor  moralities  of  the  household. 
All  civilized  nations  cook  their  food,  to  improve  its  taste 
and  digestibility.  The  degree  of  civilization  is  often 
measured  by  the  cuisine. 

Cooking  (from  the  Latin  coquo,  to  boil,  bake,  heat,  dry, 
scorch,  or  ripen)  is  usually  done  by  the  direct  application 
of  heat.  Fruits  and  some  vegetables  which  are  eaten  in  a 
natural  state  have  really  been  cooked  or  ripened  by  the 
heat  of  the  sun.  Milk  and  eggs,  which  are  types  of  per- 
fect food,  would  be  useless  as  food  unless  they  came  from 
the  warm  living  animal.  Fish,  flesh,  and  fruits  which 
have  been  dried  in  the  sun  or  smoked,  and  are  often  eaten 
without  any  further  preparation,  have  undergone  a  certain 
process  of  natural  cooking. 

Heat  seems  to  create  new  flavors,  and  to  change  the 
odor,  taste,  and  digestibility  of  nearly  all  articles  of  food. 
It  swells  and  bursts  the  starch  cells  in  flour,  rice,  and 
potatoes;  hardens  the  albumen  in  eggs,  fish,  and  meat; 
softens  the  fibrous  substances  in  tough  meats,  hard  vege- 
tables and  fruits.  It  develops  new  flavors  in  tea,  cofieet 
roasted  meat,  crusts  of  bread,  baked  beans,  etc. 

I 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Gold  is  also  an  important  matter  to  be  regarded  in  the 
preparation  of  food.  Sweet  dishes  and  certain  flavors, 
like  honey,  ices,  and  custards  ;  the  water,  wine,  or  milk  we 
drink  ;  our  butter,  fruits,  and  salads,  —  are  all  more  pala- 
table when  cold. 

Water,  or  some  other  liquid,  in  connection  with  heat  is 
necessary  in  many  forms  of  cookery.  Grains,  peas,  beans, 
dried  fruits  which  have  parted  with  nearly  all  their  moisture 
in  the  ripening  or  diying  process  necessary  for  their  preser- 
vation, need  a  large  portion  of  water  in  cooking,  to  soften 
and  swell  the  cellulose,  gluten,  and  starch  before  they  can 
be  masticated  and  digested.  In  some  vegetables  and  fruits 
water  draws  out  certain  undesirable  flavors  ;  it  softens 
and  dissolves  the  gelatinous  portions  of  meat,  and  makes 
palatable  and  nourishing  many  substances  which  would  be 
rendered  unwholesome  by  a  dry  heat. 

Air,  or  the  free  action  of  ox37gen,  upon  our  food  while 
cooking  develops  certain  flavors  not  otherwise  to  be  ob- 
tained. Meat  roasted  or  broiled  has  a  much  finer  flavor 
than  when  boiled,  baked,  or  fried.  Toasted  bread,  thin 
corn  cake  baked  before  the  fire,  roasted  apples,  and  many 
articles  cooked  in  the  open  air,  show  the  benefit  of  this 
free  combined  action  of  heat  and  air. 

Drying  in  the  sun  was  one  of  the  earliest  modes  of 
cookery.  Then  came  roasting  before  an  open  fire,  or 
broiling  over  the  coals,  and  baking  in  the  hot  ashes. 
This  last  was  the  primitive  oven.  As  the  art  of  making 
cooking-utensils  developed,  stewing,  boiling,  and  frying 
were  adopted.  Then,  to  economize  heat,  portable  ovens 
were  invented ;  these  were  originally  a  covered  dish  set 
over  or  near  the  fire,  having  sometimes  a  double  cover 
filled  with  coals.  Afterwards,  stoves  which  kept  the  fire 
and  heat  in  a  limited  space  were  introduced ;  and  im- 
provements have  been  made  in  them  so  extensively  that 
we  now  have  them  with  conveniences  for  doing  ever}7  form 
of  cooking  with  wood,  coal,  oil,  or  gas. 

Some  one  gives  this  distinction  between  man  and  other 
animals  :  "  Man  is  an  animal  that  builds  a  fire  and  uses  it 


Fire.  3 

to  cook  his  food."  It  is  quite  important  then,  as  a  step- 
ping-stone to  cooking,  to  learn  the  properties  and  manage- 
ment of  a  fire. 

Fire. 

Fire  is  heat  and  light  produced  by  the  combustion  of 
Inflammable  substances.  Combustion  is  a  chemical  opera- 
tion carried  on  in  the  air,  or  the  chemical  union  of  the 
oxj-gen  of  the  air  with  some  combustible  body,  like  hy- 
drogen gas  or  the  solid  carbon,  and  is  attended  with  the 
evolution  of  heat  and  light  The  heat  and  the  light  come 
from  the  sun.  With  every  particle  of  vegetable  matter 
that  is  formed  by  the  combined  action  of  the  sun  and  the 
carbonic  acid  gas  in  the  air,  a  portion  of  the  sun's  heat 
and  light  is  absorbed  and  held  fast  in  it.  And  whenever 
this  vegetable  matter  is  decomposed,  — as  in  burning  wood, 
coal,  or  oil,  which  are  only  definite  forms  of  vegetable  mat- 
ter, —  this  heat  and  light  are  given  out.  The  amount  of 
each  depends  upon  the  mode  of  burning. 

Air  is  composed  mainly  of  two  elementar}7  gases,  ox\Tgen 
and  nitrogen  (one  part  oxygen  and  four  parts  nitrogen), 
with  a  small  amount  of  watery  vapor  and  carbonic  acid  gas. 

Pure  oxygen  is  a  gas  vhich  has  a  wonderful  attraction 
for,  and  power  of  combination  with,  every  other  element. 
If  it  were  everywhere  present  in  a  perfectly  pure  state,  it 
would  consume  or  burn  up  eveiythiug ;  but  it  is  diluted 
or  mixed  (not  combined)  with  nitrogen,  another  gas  which 
is  incombustible,  and  which  lessens  the  combustibility  of 
everything  with  which  it  comes  in  contact.  Owing  to  this 
dilution,  the  oxygen  will  not  unite  with  the  carbon  and 
hydrogen  with  which  it  is  everywhere  surrounded,  and 
produce  rapid  combustion,  except  at  a  high  temperature. 
The  temperature  at  which  this  union  takes  place  is  called 
the  burning-point,  and  this  varies  in  different  substances. 
Thus  combustion  is  within  the  power  and  control  of  man ; 
and  some  extra  means  are  usually  employed  to  increase 
the  temperature  to  the  burning-point,  —  friction,  or  per- 
cussion, or  the  use  of  some  more  highly  inflammable 


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substances,  like  sulphur  and  phosphorus.  This  produces 
heat  sufficient  to  complete  the  chemical  union,  or,  in  com- 
mon phrase,  "  kindles  the  fire." 

The  heat  generated  for  all  household  purposes  is  produced 
by  the  chemical  action  of  the  oxygen  of  the  air  upon  the  hy- 
drogen and  carbon  which  are  found  in  the  various  kinds  ot 
wood  and  coal.  The  oxygen  first  combines  with  the  car- 
bon and  decomposes  it,  producing  carbonic  acid  gas,  which 
escapes  into  the  air,  from  which  it  is  absorbed  by  plants,  or 
by  human  lungs  when  there  is  no  proper  ventilation.  The 
oxygen  also  combines  with  the  hydrogen  gas  in  the  fuel, 
and  this  produces  the  flame ;  the  larger  the  amount  of 
hydrogen  in  the  fuel,  the  greater  the  amount  of  flame. 
Some  of  the  products  of  combustion  are  not  entirely  con- 
sumed, and  pass  off  as  smoke  ;  some  are  incombustible,  and 
remain  as  ashes.  The  intensity  of  a  fire  and  the  amount 
of  heat  which  it  produces  are  always  in  proportion  to  the 
amount  of  oxygen  with  which  it  is  supplied.  There  should 
be  just  air  enough  for  perfect  combustion.  An  excess  of 
air  projected  upon  a  fire  conveys  away  the  heat,  cools  the 
fuel,  and  checks  the  combustion.  The  supply  of  air  should 
be  controlled  by  confining  it  in  a  limited  space. 

Fires  are  usually  kindled  at  the  bottom  of  a  flue  or  chim- 
ney.  The  heated  air,  being  lighter,  rises  ;  the  colder,  den- 
ser air  rushes  in  to  take  its  place,  becomes  heated,  and 
ascends.  Thus  a  continuous  current  is  established,  and  a 
constant  supply  of  fresh  air  secured.  The  chimney  serves 
to  carry  off  the  smoke  and  poisonous  products  of  combus- 
tion ;  the  heavier,  incombustible  products  settle  in  the  form 
of  ashes.  The  force  of  this  current  of  air  drawing  through 
the  chimney  (a  matter  of  great  importance)  is  called  the 
draught.  It  varies  with  the  temperature  and  amount  of 
air  in  the  room,  and  the  length  and  width  of  the  chimney. 


Fuel. 

The  materials  generally  used  as  fuel  are  wood,  charcoal, 
coal,  kerosene  oil,  and  gas. 


Fuel.  5 

Soft  woods,  such  as  pine  or  birch,  kindle  quickl}-,  produce 
intense  heat,  and  are  best  for  a  quick,  blazing  fire. 

Hardwoods,  like  oak,  ash,  and  hickor}*,  burn  more  slowly, 
but  produce  harder  coals,  which  retain  the  heat  longer,  and 
are  better  where  long-continued  heat  is  required. 

Charcoal,  which  is  coal  made  by  charring  or  burning 
wood  with  only  a  limited  supply  of  air,  burns  easily  and 
produces  greater  heat  in  proportion  to  its  weight  than  any 
other  fuel.  It  should  never  be  burned  in  a  close  room. 

Anthracite  coal  is  a  kind  of  mineral  charcoal  derived  from 
ancient  vegetation  buried  in  the  earth,  and  so  thoroughly 
pressed  that  nothing  is  left  but  pure  carbon,  a  little  sul- 
phur, and  the  incombustible  ash.  It  kindles  slowly,  yields 
an  intense,  stead}*  heat,  and  burns  for  a  longer  time  with- 
out replenishing  than  the  hardest  wood. 

Coke,. often  used  in  cities,  is  the  residue  of  coal  from 
which  illuminating  gas  has  been  manufactured.  The  heat 
is  intense,  but  transient. 

Stoves  for  burning  kerosene  oil  and  gas  have  recently 
been  introduced,  and  are  now  so  nearly  perfect  that  the 
care  of  a  fire  for  cooking  purposes  is  trifling.  Gas  can 
only  be  used  in  certain  localities. 

The  cheapest  fuel  is  the  best  kerosene  oil.  There  need 
be  no  waste,  no  superfluous  heat,  no  vitiated  air,  if  the  fire 
be  extinguished  immediately  after  the  work  is  done,  and  if 
the  stove  be  kept  perfectly  clean,  so  as  to  secure  a  free 
burning  and  perfect  combustion.  With  two  good  stoves 
having  all  the  latest  and  best  improvements,  a  large  amoun* 
of  work  can  be  easily  and  satisfactoril}7  accomplished. 

The  Making  and  Care  of  a  Coal  Fire. 

If  you  intend  to  buy  a  new  stove  or  range,  get  one  sim- 
ple in  construction,  that  you  may  quickly  learn  all  its  parts 
and  their  uses  ;  plain  in  finish,  that  yon  may  easily  keep  it 
clean ;  and  perfectly  fitted  part  to  part,  with  doors  and 
dampers  shutting  absolutely  close,  so  that  you  ma}*  con- 
trol the  fire  and  heat.  This  latter  point  is  of  essential 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


importance  in  regulating  the  oven  and  in  preventing  a 
waste  of  fuel. 

Become  thoroughly  acquainted  with  whatever  stove  you 
may  have.  If  necessary,  take  it  apart ;  learn  how  to 
clean  it  in  the  inside,  to  regulate  the  dampers  for  all  the 
variations  of  wind,  temperature,  and  fuel;  and  then  learr 
how  to  make  and  keep  a  fire. 

All  stoves  have  a  fire-box,  with  more  or  less  space  under* 
neath  for  ashes ;  a  slide  damper  under  the  fire,  letting  in 
the  air ;  an  outlet  for  the  smoke  ;  and  a  damper  which  reg- 
ulates the  supply  of  hot  air,  sending  it  around  and  under- 
neath the  oven,  or  letting  it  escape  into  the  chimney. 
Remove  the  covers  and  brush  the  soot  from  the  top  of  the 
oven  into  the  fire-box ;  then  clean  out  the  grate ;  and  if 
the  stove  have  conveniences  for  so  doing,  sift  the  ashes  in 
the  stove  and  save  all  the  old  coal  and  cinders.  ^  Put  in 
shavings  or  loose  rolls  of  paper,  then  fine  pine  kindlings, 
arranged  crosswise,  and  a  layer  of  hard  wood,  leaving 
plenty  of  air  space  between  the  pieces.  Be  sure  the  wood 
comes  out  to  each  end  of  the  fire-box.  Put  on  the  covers  ; 
and  if  the  stove  need  cleaning,  moisten  some  pulverized 
stove  polish  with  water,  and  rub  the  stove  with  a  paint 
brush  dipped  in  the  polish.  When  all  blackened,  rub  with 
a  dry  polishing-brush  until  nearly  dry.  Open  the  direct 
draught  and  oven  damper,  and  light  the  paper,  as  a  slight 
heat  facilitates  the  process  of  polishing.  When  the  wood 
is  thoroughly  kindled,  fill  the  fire-box  with  coal  even  with 
the  top  of  the  oven.  Brush  up  the  hearth  and  floor,  empty 
the  teakettle,  and  fill  it  with  fresh  water.  Watch  the  fire, 
and  push  the  coal  down  as  the  wood  burns  away,  and 
add  enough  more  coal  to  keep  it  even  with  the  top  of  the 
fire  bricks.  When  the  blue  flame  becomes  white,  close  the 
oven  damper ;  and  when  the  coal  is  burning  freely,  but  not 
red,  shut  the  direct  draught.  It  seems  impossible  for  some 
persons  to  understand  that  a  coal  fire  is  at  its  height  as 
soon  as  well  kindled,  and  needs  only  air  enough  to  keep  it 
burning.  When  it  becomes  bright  red  all  through,  it  has 
parted  with  most  of  its  heat,  and  begins  to  die  out.  Tons 


The   Oven. 


of  coal  are  wasted  in  many  kitchens,  and  ranges  are  need- 
lessly burned  out,  b}*  filling  the  fire-box  till  the  coal  touches 
the  covers,  and  leaving  the  draughts  open  till  the  coal  is 
red. 

Nearly  ah1  stoves  and  portable  ranges  have  the  oven  at 
one  side  of  and  a  little  below  the  fire.  In  brick-set  ranges 
the  ovens  are  sometimes  over  the  fire.  A  stove  has  a  door 
on  each  side  of  the  oven,  with  the  fire-box  in  front.  A 
portable  range  has  only  one  oven-door,  and  the  fire-box  at 
the  end.  In  ranges  where  the  oven  is  over  the  fire,  the 
articles  to  be  baked  are  placed  on  a  grate  near  the  middle, 
as  the  bottom  of  the  oven  is  usually  very  hot.  In  stoves 
or  portable  ranges  anything  which  has  to  rise  in  the  oven, 
like  bread,  pastry,  cake,  etc.,  is  placed  on  the  bottom  of 
the  oven,  and,  if  the  heat  be  too  great,  a  small  rack  or 
grate  may  be  placed  under  it.  Large  pieces  of  meat  are 
placed  on  a  rack  in  a  pan  ;  while  small  cuts  of  meat,  birds, 
etc.,  which  are  to.be  baked  quickly,  and  any  dishes  which 
are  to  be  merely  browned,  like  scalloped  dishes,  must  be 
placed  on  the  grate  near  the  top.  Cultivate  the  habit  of 
opening  and  shutting  the  oven-door  quickly  but  gently. 
Learn  the  hottest  and  coolest  places  in  the  oven.  Look  at 
things  as  they  are  baking,  and  turn  and  watch  till  you  are 
sure  they  can  be  left  alone.  If  anything  bake  unevenly  or 
too  fast,  put  a  screen  between  it  and  the  heat,  —  a  pan  on 
the  grate  above  or  underneath,  or  a  frame  of  stiff  paper 
made  larger  than  the  pan,  that  it  may  not  touch  the  dough. 
When  the  regulating  dampers  are  closed  and  the  oven  is 
still  too  hot,  lift  a  cover  on  the  top  partly  off,  although  in 
a  stove  in  which  the  parts  are  perfectly  adjusted  this  will 
never  be  necessary.  When  the  oven  is  not  hot  enough, 
open  the  direct  draught,  and  rake  out  the  ashes  from  the 
grate.  Keep  the  grate  cleaned  out  and  the  fire  burning 
freely,  when  a  very  hot  oven  is  needed.  At  other  times 
keep  the  draughts  shut  and  do  not  waste  the  coal. 

To  keep  a  brisk  fire  for  several  hours  or  ah1  day,  it  is 
better  to  add  a  sprinkling  of  coal  often,  rather  than  to  let 
it  burn  nearly  out,  and  then,  by  adding  a  larger  quantity, 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


check  the  fire  and  retard  the  work.  In  using  the  top  of 
the  stove  remember  the  hottest  place  is  over  the  fire  and 
toward  the  middle,  not  on  the  front  of  the  stove.  When 
you  have  once  watched  the  flame  in  its  passage  over  the 
top,  down  the  back,  and  under  the  oven,  then  across,  out 
and  up  on  the  opposite  side  and  out  into  the  chimney,  you 
will  understand  where  the  greatest  heat  must  be. 

Boiling. 

The  term  i  '  boiling  "  is  often  used  erroneously  in  cook- 
ery. The  expressions  "  the  teakettle  boils,"  "  the  rice  is 
boiling,"  "boiled  beef,"  etc.,  are  all  good  illustrations  of 
the  rhetorical  figure  metonymy,  but  they  are  practically 
incorrect.  In  all  cases  it  is  only  the  water  or  liquid  which 
boils.  No  solid  can  boil  until  first  changed  to  a  liquid. 
Solids  become  liquid  at  the  melting-point.  Liquids  take 
the  form  of  steam  or  vapor  at  the  boiling-point.  Boiling 
is  the  conversion  of  a  liquid  into  steam  by  the  application 
of  heat  sufficient  to  cause  ebullition,  or  agitation  of  its  sur- 
face. Boiling,  therefore,  as  applied  to  the  cooking  of 
solids,  is  heating  or  cooking  in  a  boiling  liquid.  It  is  one 
of  the  most  generally  used,  and  abused,  forms  of  cooking. 
Boiling  water,  which  is  really  cooked  water,  is  the  liquid 
usually  employed.  Water,  as  it  is  heated  from  below,  ex- 
pands into  vapor.  The  air  of  the  water  and  the  steam 
shoot  up  in  the  form  of  bubbles  ;  as  they  come  in  contact 
with  the  cold  water  near  the  surface,  the  bubbles  collapse, 
the  steam  is  condensed  and  descends  with  the  cold  water, 
making  a  double  set  of  currents,  which  causes  quite  a  com- 
motion among  the  particles.  As  the  whole  body  of  water 
becomes  hotter,  these  bubbles  of  steam  rise  higher  and 
higher  before  collapsing,  and  occasion  the  sound  which 
we  call  the  "  singing  of  the  kettle."  When  the  water  is 
sufficiently  heated,  they  rise  and  break  at  the  surface, 
causing  more  or  less  agitation,  according  to  the  rapidity 
with  which  they  are  formed.  Water  is  scalding  hot  at 
150°,  or  when  the  hand  cannot  be  borne  in  it.  Water 


Boiling    Water. 


rimmers  when  the  bubbles  all  collapse  beneath  the  surface, 
and  the  steam  is  condensed  to  water  again,  or  at  185°. 
Water  boils  when  the  bubbles  rise  to  the  surface,  and  the 
steam  is  thrown  off,  as  at  212°.  When  this  boiling-point 
is  reached,  the  heat  escapes  with  the  steam  ;  and  all  the  fire 
in  the  world  cannot  make  the  water  an}'  hotter,  so  long  as 
the  steam  escapes.  If  the  fire  be  very  fierce,  so  that  these 
bubbles  are  formed  and  expelled  rapidly,  and  the  water 
boils  over,  the  water  is  no  hotter ;  it  only  evaporates  or 
boils  away  faster,  and  can  onty  be  made  hotter  by  confin- 
ing the  steam,  which  in  ordinary  kettles  is  impossible, 
owing  to  the  enormous  expansive  force  of  the  steam. 
With  a  few  exceptions  it  is  a  waste  of  fuel,  time,  and  ma- 
terial to  keep  the  water  boiling  at  such  a  galloping  rate 
that  the  cover  has  to  be  lifted  to  prevent  boiling  over. 

A  kettle  should  never  be  quite  full,  as  the  water  ex- 
pands in  heating,  and,  in  boiling  over,  makes  needless 
work  and  injures  the  stove.  Water  will  boil  more  quickly 
in  a  kettle  with  a  rough  surface  than  in  one  with  a  smooth 
surface,  as  the  water  adheres  to  a  smooth  surface  with 
greater  force,  and  this  force  or  attraction  must  be  over- 
come before  boiling  takes  place.  Small,  clean  gravel  is 
sometimes  kept  in  a  smooth  kettle  to  facilitate  the  boiling. 

Water  boils  at  a  higher  temperature  when  there  is  sugar, 
or  salt,  or  anything  in  it  to  increase  its  density.  It  takes 
longer  for  it  to  boil ;  but  it  is  hotter,  when  that  point  is 
reached.  No  one  who  has  been  burned  by  boiling  syrup 
ever  doubted  this  fact.  Fresh  water  boils  at  212°  ;  salt 
water,  at  224°.  If  we  put  salt  with  the  water  in  the  lower 
part  of  a  double  boiler,  a  greater  degree  of  heat  is  obtained 
by  which  to  cook  the  articles  in  the  top. 

Water  boils  at  a  lower  temperature,  that  is,  more  quickly, 
when  the  pressure  of  the  air  upon  the  water  is  diminished. 
Before  a  rain  the  pressure  of  the  air  is  lessened,  because 
the  air  when  filled  with  vapor  is  lighter.  Observing  house- 
keepers have  often  noticed  how  quickly  things  burn  at  such 
a  time,  and  foretell  a  rain  by  the  rapidity  with  which  watet 
evaporates. 


ro  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


The  pressure  of~the  air  is  less  the  higher  we  ascend 
above  the  level  of  the  sea,  since  we  leave  much  of  the  air 
below  us.  Cooking  in  boiling  water  requires  a  much 
longer  time  in  mountainous  regions  ;  for  the  water  boils  so 
quickly  that  it  holds  less  heat  than  in  lower  altitudes, 
where  it  is  subject  to  greater  pressure.  Water,  in  boiling, 
loses  the  air  or  gases  which  give  it  a  fresh  taste  and  spark- 
ling appearance.  It  becomes  flat  and  tasteless.  If  there 
be  any  impurity  in  water,  boiling  or  cooking  will  destroy 
it.  Then,  by  cooling,  and  exposing  to  pure  air  again,  it 
becomes  aerated  and  palatable.  But  water  for  cooking, 
unless  there  are  impurities  to  be  removed,  should  be  used 
when  freshly  boiled.  This  is  especially  important  in  mak- 
ing tea  and  coffee. 

Soft  water  should  be  used  in  boiling  where  the  object  is 
to  soften  the  texture,  and  extract  the  soluble  parts,  as  in 
soups,  broths,  tea,  and  coffee.  Hard  water,  or  soft  water 
salted,  is  better  where  we  wish  to  preserve  the  articles 
whole,  and  retain  the  soluble  and  flavoring  principles,  as  in 
most  green  vegetables.  Beans  or  dried  peas,  which  contain 
casein  or  vegetable  albumen  in  large  proportion,  should  be 
cooked  in  soft  water,  as  the  lime  in  hard  water  hardens  the 
casein,  and  prevents  the  vegetables  from  becoming  soft. 

In  cooking  meat,  fish,  and  vegetables  in  water,  we  should 
remember  these  two  facts  :  — 

Cold  water  draws  out  the  albuminous  juices,  softens  the 
fibres  and  gelatinous  portions  of  meat,  and  holds  them  in 
solution.  It  draws  out  starch,  but  does  not  unite  with  it. 

Hoiling  water  hardens  and  toughens  albumen  and  fibrine, 
bursts  the  starch  grains,  and  is  absorbed  by  the  swelling 
starch. 

Meat  is  cooked  in  water  for  three  distinct  purposes  :  — 

First.  To  keep  the  nutriment  within  the  meat,  as  in 
what  is  usually  called  boiled  meat.  To  do  this,  we  leave  the 
meat  whole,  that  only  a  little  surface  may  be  exposed. 
Plunge  it  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  keep  it  there  for 
five  or  ten  minutes;  this  hardens  the  albumen  over  the 
entire  surface,  and  makes  a  coating  through  which  the  juices 


Boiling  Meat,  etc.  II 

cannot  escape.  Then  move  the  kettle  where  the  water 
will  simmer  slowly.  See  that  the  cover  fits  tightly,  to  keep 
in  the  steam.  The  water  should  be  salted  to  raise  the 
boiling-point,  and  increase  the  density  of  the  water,  and 
thus  prevent  the  escape  of  the  juices.  A  small  amount  of 
the  albumen  in  the  outer  surface  will  be  dissolved  and  rise 
as  scum.  This  should  be  removed,  or  it  will  settle  on  the 
meat  and  render  it  uninviting  in  appearance.  If  the  meat 
be  put  in  the  kettle  with  the  bones  uppermost,  then  the  scum 
will  not  settle  on  the  meat.  In  turning  the  meat  do  not 
pierce  into  it  to  let  the  juices  escape.  It  will  take  a  longer 
time  to  cook  in  this  way,  but  the  fibrine  will  be  softened, 
and  the  meat  made  more  tender  and  of  better  flavor,  than 
when  kept  boiling  furiously. 

Second.  Meats  are  cooked  in  water  to  have  the  nutri- 
ment wholly  in  the  liquid,  as  in  soups  and  meat  teas.  Cut 
the  meat  in  small  pieces ;  soak  in  cold  water,  the  longer 
the  better ;  heat  gradually,  and  keep  hot,  but  not  boiling, 
until  all  the  goodness  is  extracted. 

Third.  Meats  are  cooked  in  water  to  have  the  nutri- 
ment partly  in  the  liquid  and  partly  in  the  meat,  as  in  stews, 
fricassees,  etc.  Put  the  meat  in  cold  water,  let  the  water 
boil  quickly,  then  skim,  and  keep  at  the  simmering-point. 
The  cold  water  will  draw  out  enough  of  the  juices  to  enrich 
the  liquid ;  then,  as  it  reaches  the  boiling-point,  the  meat 
hardens,  and  retains  the  remainder. 

Fish  is  usually  cooked  in  boiling  water  for  the  purpose 
of  keeping  the  juices  in  the  fish.  As  the  flesh  of  fish 
breaks  easily,  the  water  should  never  be  allowed  to  boil 
rapidly.  Salmon,  mackerel,  or  any  very  oily  fish,  should 
be  put  into  cold  water,  and  brought  almost  to  the  boiling- 
point  quickly,  as  they  have  a  very  strong,  rich  flavor.  A 
little  of  this  flavor  can  be  lost  without  injury  to  the  fish. 

Vegetables,  which  are  mostly  starch  and  water,  should 
be  put  into  boiling  water  and  boiled  rapidly,  that  the  small 
portions  of  albumen  which  they  contain  may  be  hardened 
on  the  surface  ;  then,  if  the  starch  grains  are  burst  quickly, 
they  will  absorb  the  albuminous  juices  within. 


12  The  Bosion  Cook  Book. 

Milk  boils  at  196°.  Being  thicker  than  water,  less  of 
the  steam  escapes,  and  the  whole  liquid  becomes  hot  sooner 
than  water.  The  bubbles  rise  rapidly,  and,  owing  to  their 
tenacit}7,  do  not  burst  at  the  surface,  but  climb  over  one 
another  till  they  run  over  the  edge  of  the  pan. 

Milk,  grains,  custards,  and  any  substances  which,  from 
their  glutinous  nature,  would  be  liable  to  adhere  to  the 
kettle,  are  much  more  easily  and  safely  cooked  in  a  double 
boiler,  or  in  a  pail  within  a  kettle  of  water.  This  is  one 
form  of  steaming,  or  cooking  over  boiling  water.  In  steam- 
ing, the  water  should  not  stop  boiling  until  the  articles  are 
cooked.  This  is  a  convenient  form  of  cooking  many  arti- 
cles which  it  is  troublesome  to  cook  with  a  dry  heat,  and 
}ret  do  not  need  the  solvent  powers  of  water.  Watery 
vegetables  are  rendered  drier  by  steaming ;  and  tough 
pieces  of  meat  which  cannot  be  roasted,  are  first  made 
tender  by  steaming,  and  then  browned  in  the  oven.  Some- 
times meat  is  steamed  in  its  own  juices  alone ;  this  is 
called  smothering,  or  pot-roasting. 

Stewing  is  another  form  of  boiling  or  cooking  in  a  small 
qnantity  of  water,  at  a  moderate  heat,  and  for  a  long  time. 
The  word  means  a  slow,  moist,  gentle  heat.  It  is  an  eco- 
nomical mode  of  cooking,  except  where  a  fire  has  to  be 
kept  for  this  purpose  alone.  The  long-continued  action  of 
a  gentle  heat  softens  the  fibres  ;  and  the  coarsest  and 
cheapest  kinds  of  meat,  cooked  in  this  way,  with  vegeta- 
bles, may  be  made  tender  and  nutritious.  By  judicious  use 
of  seasoning  material,  remnants  can  be  made  into  savory 
and  nourishing  dishes.  Whether  we  call  it  simply  a  stew, 
or  ragout,  haricot,  or  salmi,  the  principle  is  the  same,  — 
that  of  slow,  steady  simmering,  rather  than  fierce  boiling. 

Fricasseeing  (meaning  "to  fry")  is  a  form  of  stewing. 
The  term  is  usually  applied  to  chicken,  veal,  or  some  small 
game,  which  is  cut  into  pieces,  and  fried  either  before  or 
after  stewing,  and  served  with  a  rich  white  or  brown 
sauce,  and  without  vegetables.  Any  meat  that  is  quite 
juicy  and  not  very  tough  may  be  first  browned  on  the  out- 
side to  keep  in  the  juices,  and  improve  the  flavor.  Coarse, 


Braising,  Baking.  13 

tough  pieces  should  not  be  browned,  but  dipped  in  vinegar 
to  soften  the  fibre ;  and  pieces  containing  much  gristle 
should  be  put  into  cold  water. 

Braising  is  a  form  of  stewing  done  usually  in  a  braising- 
pan  or  kettle  which  has  coals  in  the  cover.  Any  granite 
or  iron  pan  with  a  close  cover  to  keep  in  the  steam  will 
answer  the  purpose.  When  placed  in  the  oven,  where  it 
is  surrounded  by  a  slow,  uniform  heat,  it  needs  very  little 
attention.  It  is  one  of  the  most  economical  and  satisfac- 
tory ways  of  cooking  large  pieces  of  tough,  lean  meat, 
pigeons,  liver,  fowls,  heart,  etc.  Stock,  vegetables,  and 
bacon  may  be  used,  if  a  rich  liquor  be  required  ;  but  water, 
herbs,  and  simple  seasoning  make  it  very  palatable. 

Baking  is  hardening  or  cooking  in  a  dr}r  heat,  as  in  a 
close  oven.  Nearly  all  flour  mixtures  —  bread,  pastry,  and 
some  forms  of  pudding  —  are  more  wholesome  baked  than 
when  cooked  in  any  other  way.  Many  forms  of  baking 
are  really  stewing ;  but  the  closely  confined  heat  of  the 
oven  gives  an  entirely  different  flavor  from  that  obtained 
b}^  stewing  over  the  fire.  This  is  seen  in  the  difference 
between  stewed  and  baked  apple-sauce,  beans,  etc. 

Meat  and  fish,  if  baked  in  the  right  way,  lose  less  in 
weight  than  when  boiled  or  roasted.  To  bake  them  prop- 
erly, the  juices  must  be  kept  within  the  meat.  An  intense 
heat  at  first  is  necessary  to  harden  the  albumen ;  then  re- 
duce the  heat,  that  the  outside  may  not  become  too  hard, 
and  baste  frequently  to  prevent  drying.  No  water  should 
be  put  in  the  pan  at  first,  as  it  will  then  be  impossible  to 
have  a  greater  heat  than  that  of  boiling  water  (212°) ,  while 
for  baking  meat  280°,  or  more,  is  required.  Put  one  or 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  beef  drippings,  or  some  of  the  fat 
from  the  meat,  in  the  pan,  to  use  in  basting,  as  the  fat  can 
be  made  much  hotter  than  water.  If  the  joint  be  very 
large,  or  the  meat  need  thorough  cooking,  like  poultry, 
veal,  or  pork,  water  can  be  added  to  check  the  heat  as 
soon  as  the  outside  is  cooked  sufficiently  to  keep  in  the 
juices.  This  will  keep  the  meat  moist.  Small  cuts,  and 
meats  to  be  eaten  rare,  are  better  baked  without  water. 


14  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Many  persons  accustomed  to  meat  roasted  before  the 
open  fire  object  to  the  flavor  of  baked  meat.  If  the  oven 
be  very  hot  at  first,  and  opened  every  five  minutes  just 
long  enough  for  the  basting,  which  is  an  essential  part  of 
the  cooking  process,  the  smoky  odor  escapes.  If  there 
be  no  damper  to  check  the  heat  underneath  the  oven,  put 
the  grate  or  another  pan  under  the  dripping-pan,  as  no 
heat  is  required  under  the  meat.  This  will  prevent  the  fat 
in  the  pan  from  burning  and  smoking  the  meat.  Place 
the  meat  with  the  skin  side  down  at  first ;  then,  if  the 
juices  begin  to  flow,  the  skin  keeps  them  in ;  and,  when 
turned,  it  brings  the  side  which  is  to  be  up  in  serving 
next  the  hottest  part  of  the  oven,  for  the  final  browning. 
Ah1  baked  meat  or  fish  should  be  salted  and  floured  all 
over.  Salt  draws  out  the  juices  ;  but  the  flour  unites  with 
them,  making  a  paste  which  soon  hardens,  and  keeps  them 
within.  Baste  often,  and  dredge  with  salt  and  flour  after 
basting.  If  there  be  no  shelf  attached  to  the  stove  near 
the  oven,  keep  a  box  or  frame  of  wood  just  the  height  of 
the  oven,  near  by,  and  pushed  up  close  to  it ;  it  will  be 
found  very  convenient  to  pull  the  pan  out  upon  it  when 
basting  or  turning  the  meat. 


Frying. 

Frying  is  cooking  in  hot  fat,  —  not  boiling  fat,  as  it  is  so 
often  called,  for  fat  can  be  made  much  hotter  than  the 
temperature  required  for  cooking,  which  is  385°  ;  the  ttm- 
perature  for  boiling  fat  is  from  565°  to  600°.  Frying, 
when  properly  done,  is  immersion  in  smoking-hot  fat.  The 
fat  should  be  deep  enough  to  entirely  cover  the  articles  to 
be  cooked  ;  and  as  it  may  be  used  many  times,  it  is  not  so 
extravagant  as  some  suppose  to  use  such  a  quantify.  The 
prime  secret  of  nice  frying  is  to  have  the  fat  hot  enough 
to  harden  instantly  the  albumen  on  the  outer  surface,  and 
thus  prevent  the  fat  from  soaking  into  the  inside  of  what- 
ever is  to  be  fried.  As  a  much  higher  temperature  is 
required  than  that  for  boiling  or  baking,  the  articles  are 


Frying.  1 5 


very  quickly  cooked ;  and  they  have  a  flavor  quite  unlike 
that  given  by  any  other  form  of  cooking. 

All  articles  to  be  fried  should  be  thoroughly  dried  and 
slightly  warmed.  If  very  moist,  or  very  cold,  or  too  many 
articles  be  fried  at  a  time,  the  fat  becomes  chilled,  and 
the  grease  soaks  into  them.  Then,  as  the  moisture  heats 
and  boils,  it  causes  such  a  commotion  that  the  fat  and 
water  boil  over,  and  there  is  great  danger  from  the  fat- 
taking  fire  and  spreading  to  your  clothing,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  trouble  of  cleaning  the  stove  and  floor.  For  this 
reason  be  careful  not  to  let  a  drop  of  water,  or  of  con- 
densed steam  from  another  kettle.,  fall  into  the  hot  fat. 

Meat,  fish,  oysters,  croquettes,  etc.,  should  be  dried, 
and  rolled  in  fine  bread-crumbs,  to  absorb  any  moisture ; 
then  rolled  in  beaten  egg,  and  in  fine  crumbs  again.  The 
hot  fat  hardens  the  albumen  of  the  egg  instantly  ;  and  that, 
with  the  crumbs,  makes  a  fat-proof  crust. 

Fish  balls,  fritters,  and  fried  muffin  mixtures  contain 
egg  and  albumen  sufficient  to  keep  them  from  soaking  fat, 
if  the  fat  be  only  hot  enough.  A  Scotch  bowl,  or  deep 
iron  or  granite  kettle,  and  a  wire  basket  small  enough  to 
fit  down  into  the  kettle,  are  best  to  use  in  frying. 

The  Test  for  Hot  Fat.  —  When  the  fat  .begin?  to  smoke 
put  in  a  bit  of  bread ;  if  it  brown  quickty,  or  while  you 
can  count  sixty  as  the  clock  ticks,  it  is  hot  enough  for 
fried  potatoes,  doughnuts,  etc.  When  hot  enough  to 
brown  the  bread  while  you  count  forty,  it  will  do  for  fish 
balls,  croquettes,  etc. 

When  read}-  to  fry,  plunge  the  basket  into  the  hot  fat 
to  grease  it,  and  then  place  in  it  the  croquettes,  or  what- 
ever you  may  be  frying,  so  that  they  will  not  touch  each 
other.  Hold  the  handle  of  the  basket  with  a  long  fork, 
and  plunge  it  quickly  into  the  fat,  but  do  not  drop  the 
handle,  because  if  the  fat  begin  to  boil  up,  you  can  then 
raise  the  basket  quickly,  and  wait  till  the  ebullition  has 
subsided  before  plunging  it  in  again ;  and  thus  avoid 
the  danger  of  burning  from  the  overflowing  fat.  The  fat 
cools  rapidly,  when  many  articles  are  fried  at  once,  and 


16  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

should  be  reheated  to  the  test  point  before  frying  any 
more. 

Time.  —  Any  cooked  mixture,  such  as  fish  balls  and  cro- 
quettes, or  very  small  fish,  oysters,  scallops,  etc.,  will  be 
fried  brown  in  one  minute.  Thicker  fish,  chops,  and  frit- 
ters require  longer  cooking  ;  and,  after  plunging  them  into 
the  hot  fat,  the  kettle  should  be  set  back  from  the  fire  to 
prevent  them  from  becoming  too  brown  before  they  are 
sufficiently  cooked.  While  frying,  be  careful  not  to  spill 
any  fat  on  the  stove.  Keep  a  tin  plate  in  your  left  hand, 
and  hold  it  under  the  basket,  or  ladle,  as  you  take  things 
from  the  fat. 

Draining.  —  Thorough  draining  is  another  secret  of  nice 
frying,  and  you  cannot  find  a  much  hotter  place  than  right 
over  the  hot  fat ;  so  hold  your  basket  of  fried  food  over  the 
hot  fat,  and  shake  slightly,  till  all  dripping  has  stopped. 
Then  place  the  fried  articles  on  soft  or  unglazed  paper,  to 
absorb  the  fat,  and  keep  them  hot  till  ready  to  serve. 
Never  pile  fried  articles  one  on  another. 

Fat  for  Frying. 

Lard,  a  mixture  of  half  suet  and  half  lard,  drippings,  or 
oil,  may  be  used  for  frying.  Suet  and  drippings  are  cheap-- 
est,  and  are  preferred  by  many.  Suet  used  alone  cools 
very  quickly  and  leaves  a  tallowy  taste.  Drippings  should 
be  carefully  clarified  (see  page  18)  and  freed  from  water, 
or  the  articles  cooked  will  soak  fat.  Lard,  with  a  small 
proportion  of  suet  or  drippings,  is  more  generally  satisfac- 
tory. There  is  often  a  very  disagreeable  odor  to  new  lard, 
and  more  or  less  water  in  it,  as  is  shown  by  the  froth  and 
ebullition  as  soon  as  it  becomes  hot.  Before  it  is  used  for 
any  purpose  it  should  be  clarified  with  slices  of  raw  potato 
and  heated  until  it  becomes  still.  Olive  oil  is  the  purest  fat 
for  frying,  but  it  is  too  expensive  for  general  use.  Cotton-  ' 
seed  oil  has  been  recently  introduced  for  cooking  purposes, 
and  is  an  excellent  fat  for  frying,  though  many  dislike  its 
peculiar  odor  It  may  be  heated  much  hotter  than  lard* 


Sauteing.  1 7 


without  burning,  and,  when  properly  used,  imparts  no 
flavor  to  the  food.  When  the  fat  becomes  too  brown  lor 
potatoes  or  doughnuts,  use  it  for  croquettes,  etc.,  and  then 
use  it  for  nothing  except  fish  balls  and  fish.  When  it  be- 
comes very  brown,  put  it  with  the  soap-grease. 

If  you  wish  to  fry  several  kinds  at  the  same  time,  begin 
with  potatoes,  following  with  doughnuts  or  flour  mixtures, 
and  crumbed  articles  last ;  otherwise  the  crumbs  will  fall 
off,  and  adhere  to  whatever  is  put  in  subsequently.  After 
every  frying,  strain  the  fat  through  a  fine  wire  strainer  or 
fine  strainer  cloth  into  a  tin  pail,  not  pouring  it,  but  dip- 
ping it  from  the  kettle  with  a  small  long-handled  dipper. 
Let  it  cool  slightly  before  straining,  as,  if  very  hot,  it  will 
melt  the  strainer.  Sprinkle  coffee  on  the  stove,  while  fry- 
ing, to  disguise  the  odor. 

Sauteing. 

The  ordinary  way  of  frying  in  a  shallow  pan  with  only  a 
little  fat,  first  on  one  side  and  then  on  the  other,  which  the 
French  call  sauteing,  answers  very  well  for  some  purposes, 
— omelets,  fried  cakes,  and  many  things  browned  in  butter  ; 
but  nearly  everything  that  requires  any  more  fat  than  just 
enough  to  keep  it  from  sticking,  is  much  better  immersed 
in  hot  fat.  Fish  balls,  chops,  and  O}Tsters  are  more  quickly 
cooked,  and  absorb  less  fat,  when  fried  by  immersion  than 
when  sauted.  Some  people  are  extremely  unwilling  to 
make  the  change,  and  persist  in  going  on  in  the  old  way 
of  cooking  in  a  little,  half-hot  fat  which  spatters  over 
stove  and  floor,  soaks  into  the  fish  or  meat,  and  is  often 
served  as  the  only  gravy.  Upon  such,  dyspepsia  is  a  fell 
avenger. 

These  directions  for  frying  are  given  thus*  minutely  not 
from  any  desire  to  recommend  this  method  of  cooking ; 
but,  if  people  will  fry  their  food,  they  should  do  it  in  the 
only  correct  way.  With  the  exception  of  salt-fish  balls 
and  small,  dry,  white  fish,  there  is  nothing  fried,  even  in 

9 


1 8  The  Boston  Cook  Booh. 

the  right  way,  that  would  not  be  equally  good,  and  much 
more  conducive  to  health,  were  it  cooked  otherwise.  Sar- 
atoga potatoes,  or  chips  as  they  are  called,  are  really  chips, 
for  persons  with  weak  digestion.  Oysters,  chops,  fritters, 
and  the  materials  in  croquettes,  muffins,  and  doughnuts 
may  be  cooked  in  many  better  ways. 

Frying  answers  very  well  for  open-air  cooking,  on  the 
seashore  or  in  camp,  where  appetite  and  digestion  are 
strengthened.  But  in  most  modern  houses,  where  the 
odors  from  the  kitchen  penetrate  the  remotest  nook  and 
corner,  there  are  many  serious  objections,  apart  from  the 
indigestibility  of  the  food  thus  prepared.  The  acrid  odors 
given  off  during  the  heating  of  fat  are  very  irritating  to 
the  mucous  membrane  of  the  nose  and  throat,  and  they  are 
equally  so  to  a  sensitive  stomach.  Some  persons  who  can 
usually  digest  fried  food  cannot  do  so  when  the  stomach 
has  been  irritated  by  the  odor  in  frying.  If  all  those  who 
are  so  fond  of  croquettes,  fritters,  etc.,  were  obliged  to 
inhale  the  smoking  fat,  these  dishes  would  seldom  appear 
on  the  table. 

To  clarify  Fat. 

Any  uncooked  fat,  such  as  suet,  the  fat  from  chickens, 
and  all  superfluous  beef  fat,  should  be  saved  and  clarified, 
or  made  pure  and  clear.  Cut  the  fat  into  small  pieces, 
cover  with  cold  water,  and  cook  over  a  slow  fire  until  the 
fat  has  melted,  and  the  water  nearly  all  evaporated.  Then 
strain  and  press  all  the  fat  from  the  scraps.  When  cool, 
remove  the  cake  of  hard  fat,  or,  if  soft,  draw  it  to  one  side 
and  let  the  water  underneath  run  off.  You  may  put  with 
the  new  fat  any  fat  from  soup  stock,  corned  beef,  drippings 
from  roast  beef,  veal,  fresh  pork,  or  chicken  ;  in  fact,  any- 
thing except  the  fat  from  mutton,  turkey,  and  smoked 
meat.  If  there  be  any  sediment  adhering  to  the  fat,  add 
a  little  very  cold  water,  and,  after  stirring  well,  pour  the 
water  off,  or  skim  the  fat  from  the  water.  Place  the  fat 
in  a  pan  over  the  fire,  and,  when  melted,  add  one  small 
raw  potato,  cut  into  thin  slices.  Let  it  stand  on  the  top 


Egg  and  Bread  Crumbing.  19 

of  the  stove  or  in  the  oven  till  the  fat  has  stopped  bub- 
bling, is  still,  and  the  scraps  are  brown  and  crisp  and 
rise  to  the  top.  Strain  through  a  fine  strainer,  and  keep 
in  a  cool  place.  Fat  thus  cleared  will  keep  sweet  for 
weeks,  if  melted  occasionally,  which  should  always  be 
done  when  any  new  fat  is  added. 

Boiling  the  fat  causes  the  water  in  it  to  evaporate,  and 
the  organic  matters  or  impurities  to  be  decomposed,  and 
deposited  as  sediment ;  the  potato,  owing  to  its  porosity 
and  power  of  absorption  (being  mostly  starch  and  car- 
bon), absorbs  any  odors  or  gases,  collects  the  sediment, 
and  thus  cleanses  the  fat,  very  much  as  charcoal  purifies 
water.  Clarified  fat  (or  dripping,  as  it  is  usually  termed) 
answers  for  many  purposes  in  cooking,  —  frying,  saut6- 
ing,  basting  roast  meat,  greasing  pans ;  and  as  shorten- 
ing for  bread,  plain  pastry,  and  gingerbread. 

Egg  and  Bread  Crumbing. 

Hints  on  saving  bread  crusts  and  stale  pieces,  for  egg 
and  bread  crumbing,  are  given  on  page  75.  The  crumbs 
should  be  sifted  through  a  fine  sieve.  For  fish  or  meat 
mix  a  little  salt,  pepper,  and  chopped  parsley  with  them. 
Beat  the  eggs  slightly  with  a  fork  in  a  shallow  dish.  Add 
one  tablespoonful  of  water  or  two  table  spoonfuls  of  milk 
for  each  egg.  Add  a  little  sugar  if  they  are  to  be  used  for 
sweet  dishes,  and  salt  and  pepper  for  all  others.'  Sprinkle 
the  crumbs  on  a  board,  and  roll  the  chop,  fish,  or  cro- 
quettes first  in  the  crumbs  ;  shake  off  all  that  do  not  adhere. 
Cover  all  the  articles  with  the  crumbs  and  let  them  stand 
till  dry,  then  dip  into  the  beaten  egg,  and  be  careful  to 
have  ever}*  part  covered.  Drain  from  the  egg,  and  roll 
again  in  the  crumbs.  Croquettes  or  any  soft  mixture 
should  be  held  on  a  broad  knife  while  being  placed  in  the 
egg.  Then  dip  the  egg  over  them,  and  slip  the  knife  again 
lengthwise  under  the  croquette,  drain,  and  put  it  carefully 
into  the  crumbs.  Scallops  and  very  small  O}'sters  can  be 
more  easily  crumbed  by  placing  them  with  the  crumbs  in  a 


2O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

sheet  of  paper,  and  tossing  or  turning  till  all  are  crumbed . 
Remember  the  order  :  crumbs  first,  then  egg,  then  crumbs 
again. 

Roasting. 

Roasting  (meaning  "  to  heat  violently  "  )  is  cooking  be- 
fore tin  open  fire  ;  it  implies  the  action  of  a  much  greater 
degree  of  heat  than  that  empktyed  in  any  of  the  previously 
specified  methods  of  cooking.  The  heat  of  an  open  fire  is 
about  1,000°. 

In  the  days  of  open  fireplaces  this  was  the  general  way 
of  cooking  large  pieces  of  meat ;  but  now  it  is  adopted 
only  in  large  establishments,  or  by  those  who  can  afford 
the  additional  expense  of  a  tin  kitchen,  and  a  range  con- 
structed especially  for  roasting.  Baking,  or  roasting  in  a 
very  hot  oven,  being  a  cheaper  and  more  convenient  way, 
is  more  generally  used.  Ovens  in  stoves  and  ranges  are 
now  well  ventilated  ;  and  meat  when  properly  cooked  in  a 
very  hot  oven,  and  basted  often,  is  nearly  equal  in  flavor 
to  that  roasted  before  an  open  fire.  The  fire  for  roasting 
should  be  clear  and  bright,  and  of  sufficient  body  to  last, 
with  only  a  slight  sprinkling  of  coal,  through  the  time  for 
roasting. 

The  meat  is  placed  on  a  spit,  and  hung  in  the  jack  in  a 
tin  kitchen,  and  made  to  revolve  slowly  before  the  fire  by 
winding  a  spring  in  the  jack,  or  by  turning  the  spit  at 
regular  intervals.  The  meat  should  be  rubbed  with  salt 
and  flour,  and  placed  on  the  spit,  very  near  the  fire  at 
first,  to  harden  the  albumen ;  then  removed  a  little  dis- 
tance to  prevent  the  meat  from  burning,  before  the  inside 
is  cooked.  Place  two  or  three  spoonfuls  of  dripping  in 
the  pan  to  use  in  basting  the  meat  ;  baste  often,  and 
dredge  two  or  three  times  with  flour.  When  the  joint  is 
very  large,  place  a  buttered  paper  over  it. 

As  the  juices  of  meat  are  composed  largely  of  water, 
the  water  will  be  evaporated  as  soon  as  it  reaches  the 
boiling-point,  or  212°.  When  meat  is  placed  in  a  moder- 
ate oven,  the  heat  is  not  sufficient  to  harden  the  albumen 


Broiling.  2 1 


on  the  outer  surface  ;  the  watery  juices  evaporate,  the 
steam  escapes,  and  the  meat  becomes  dry  and  tasteless. 
But  when  meat  is  exposed  to  the  intense  heat  of  an  open 
fire,  or  a  very  hot  oven,  the  albumen  hardens ;  and  if 
basted  frequently  with  hot  fat,  the  meat  is  completely  en- 
veloped in  a  varnish  of  hot  melted  fat,  which  assists  in 
communicating  the  heat  to  the  inside,  and  checks  the 
evaporation  of  the  juices ;  this  prevents  the  escape  of  the 
steam,  so  that  the  inside  of  properly  roasted  meat  is 
really  cooked  in  the  steam  of  its  own  juices.  The  evapo 
ration  of  juices  is  proportionate  to  the  amount  of  surface 
exposed.  A  small  joint  has  a  larger  surface  in  proportion 
to  its  weight  than  a  large  joint  weighing  double  or  treble 
the  amount ;  therefore  the  smaller  the  joint  to  be  roasted, 
the  higher  the  temperature  to  which  its  surface  should  be  ex- 
posed, that  the  evaporation  may  be  more  quickly  arrested. 
For  very  thin  pieces  of  meat,  which  have  a  still  larger 
surface  in  proportion  to  the  weight,  such  as  steaks  and 
chops,  a  greater  heat  is  required.  This  is  accomplished 
by  broiling,  which  should  be  done  near  the  burning- 
point,  the  highest  degree  of  heat  employed  in  any  form  of 
cooking. 

Broiling. 

Broiling  (meaning  "  to  burn"  )  is  cooking  directly  over 
the  hot  coals.  The  degree  of  heat  is  so  intense  that  the 
articles  to  be  cooked  would  be  very  quickly  burned,  were 
they  allowed  to  remain  for  any  length  of  time  over  the  fire. 
The  secret  of  nice  broiling  is  frequent  turning.  The  fire 
should  be  bright  red,  and  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  fire-box, 
so  that  the  broiler  may  almost  touch  the  fire.  There 
should  be  no  flame,  as  the  flame  from  coal  is  due  to  the 
combustion  of  tany  vapors,  and  will  cause  a  deposit  of 
coal  tar  on  the  meat,  giving  it  a  smoky,  nauseating  flavor. 
When  the  fat  from  the  chop  or  steak  drips  on  the  coals 
and  blazes,  it  deposits  a  film  of  mutton  or  beef  fat  all 
over  the  meat,  which  has  a  very  different  flavor  from  that 
of  the  coal  flame.  When  the  steak  has  much  fat,  remove 


22  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

part  of  it.  A  little  fat  will  improve  the  flavor,  baste 
the  meat,  and  keep  it  from  becoming  too  dry.  The 
oven  damper  should  alwa}Ts  be  opened  while  broiling, 
that  the  smoke  of  the  dripping  fat  may  be  carried  into  the 
chimney. 

There  is  nothing  better  for  broiling  than  a  double  wire 
broiler.  It  is  well  to  have  several  sizes.  Grease  it  well 
with  a  bit  of  the  fat  from  the  meat,  or  with  salt-pork  rind. 
Place  the  thickest  part  of  whatever  is  to  be  broiled  next 
the  middle  of  the  broiler.  Do  not  salt  the  meat,  as  salt 
draws  out  the  juice.  Have  the  platter  heating,  and  every- 
thing else  ready,  that  you  may  not  leave  the  broiling  for 
an  instant.  Hold  the  broiler  firmty,  with  a  coarse  towel 
wrapped  around  3rour  hand  to  protect  it  from  the  heat. 
Place  it  as  near  the  fire  as  possible,  to  sear  the  outside 
instantly  ;  count  ten,  then  sear  the  other  side.  The  heat 
hardens  the  outside,  and  starts  the  flow  of  the  juices. 
They  cannot  escape  through  the  hardened  outer  surface ; 
but  if  the  meat  were  cooked  wholly  on  one  side  before 
turning,  they  would  soon  come  to  the  top,  and  then,  in 
turning  the  meat,  the  juices  would  drip  into  the  fire.  But 
if  the  meat  be  turned  before  the  juices  reach  the  top,  the 
other  surface  is  hardened,  and  they  cannot  escape,  but  flow 
to  the  centre,  and  are  there  retained.  As  the  juices  are 
converted  into  steam  by  the  heat,  they  swell  and  give  the 
meat  a  puffy  appearance.  If  the  broiling  be  carried  on 
too  long,  these  juices  gradually  ooze  between  the  fibres 
to  the  surface,  and  are  evaporated  ;  and  the  meat  becomes 
dry,  leathery,  and  indigestible. 

Meat  should  be  broiled  only  long  enough  to  loosen  all 
the  fibres,  and  start  the  flow  of  the  juices.  The  meat  will 
spring  up  instantly  when  pressed  with  the  knife  ;  and  when 
it  ceases  to  do  this,  the  juices  have  begun  to  evaporate, 
and  the  meat  shrinks.  A  little  experience  will  enable  one 
to  decide  just  when  to  remove  the  meat.  Do  not  cut  into 
it,  as  this  lets  out  the  juices.  It  should  be  pink  and  juicy, 
not  raw  and  purple,  nor  brown  and  dry.  Turn  over  as 
often  as  you  can  count  ten,  and  cook  four  minutes,  if 


'Broiling.  23 


one  inch  thick;  six,  if  one  inch  and  a  half  thick.  The 
smaller  and  thinner  the  article,  the  hotter  should  be  the 
fire ;  the  larger  the  article,  the  more  temperate  the  fire, 
or  the  greater  the  distance  from  the  fire. 

Fish  should  be  floured  to  keep  the  skin  from  sticking. 
A  large  baking-pan  to  keep  in  the  heat  should  be  laid 
over  the  fish  if  thick,  or  it  may  be  first  partly  cooked  in 
the  oven. 

Chickens,  to  be  thoroughly  broiled  but  not  burned  or 
dried,  require  about  twenty  minutes.  A  safe  way  is  to 
wrap  them  in  buttered  glazed  paper ;  cook  the  inner  side 
first,  and  after  the  first  searing  keep  them  farther  from 
the  fire,  or  cook  them  first  in  the  oven. 

Chops,  bacon,  birds,  and  dry  fish  are  also  improved  by 
broiling  in  the  buttered  paper.  Take  a  large  sheet  of 
white  letter  paper,  or  two  small  sheets.  Rub  them  well 
with  softened  butter.  This  keeps  out  the  air.  Season  the 
chop  or  fish  with  salt  and  pepper,  place  it  near  the  centre 
of  the  paper,  and  fold  the  edges  of  the  paper  over  several 
times  and  pinch  them  together  close  to  the  meat.  The 
paper  will  char  a  long  time  before  blazing,  if  care  be  taken 
not  to  break  through  the  paper  and  thus  let  in  the  air  and 
let  out  all  the  fat.  The  meat  will  be  basted  with  its  own 
fat  and  juices.  A  longer  time  will  be  required  for  the 
broiling  ;  but  when  the  paper  is  well  browned,  the  chop  will 
be  done.  It  will  be  found  juicy  and  delicious,  —  free 
from  any  smoky  flavor. 

Pan-broiling  is  broiling  in  a  hissing  hot  spider  or  frying- 
pan.  Heat  the  pan  to  a  blue  heat.  Rub  it  with  a  bit  of 
the  beef  fat,  just  enough  to  keep  the  meat  from  sticking, 
but  do  not  leave  any  fat  in  the  pan.  Sear  the  meat  quickly 
on  one  side,  then  turn  without  cutting  into  the  meat,  and 
brown  the  other  side  before  any  juice  escapes  into  the 
pan.  Cook  about  four  minutes,  turning  twice,  and  serve 
very  hot  with  salt  and  butter.  If  the  pan  be  hot  enough 
and  no  fat  used,  this  is  not  frying,  it  is  broiling  on  hot 
iron;  and  the  flavor  is  almost  equal  to  broiling  over  the 
coals. 


The  Boston   Cook  Book. 


Time  Tables  for  Cooking. 


Baking  Bread,  Cake,  and  Puddings. 

Loaf  bread     .     .     .     .  40  to  60  m. 

Rolls,  biscuit      .     .     .  10  to  20  " 

Graham  gems     ...  30  " 

Gingerbread       ...  20  to  30  " 

Sponge  cake       .     .     .  45  to  60  " 

Plain         "     ....  30  to  40  " 

Fruit         "..;...  2  to    3  hrs. 

Cookies     .     .     .     .     .  10  to  15  m. 

Bread  pudding        .     .  1  hr. 

Rice  and  Tapioca  .  1   " 

Indian  pudding       .     .  2  to    3  " 

Plum           "             .     .  2  to    3   " 

Custards 15  to  20  m. 

Steamed  brown-bread  3  hrs. 

Steamed  puddings      .  1  to    3  " 

Pie-crust about  30  in. 

Potatoes 30  to  45  " 

Baked  beans       ...  6  to    8  hrs. 

Braised  meat     ...  3  to    4  " 

Scalloped  dishes     .     .  15  to  20  m. 

Frying. 

Croquettes,  Fish  Balls  1  m. 

Doughnuts,  Fritters     .  3  to  5  m. 
Bacon,  Small  Fish,  Potatoes  2  to  5m. 

Breaded  Chops  and  Fish  5  to  8  m. 


Baking  Meats. 

Beef,  sirloin,  rare,  per  Ib.  8  to  10  m. 
Beef,  sirloin   well  done, 

per  Ib 12  to  15  " 

Beef,  rolled  rib  or  rump, 

per Ib.  .....     12  to  15  " 

Beef,  long  or  short  fillet  20  to  30  " 
Mutton,  rare,  per  Ib.    .  10 

Mutton,  well  done,  per  Ib.          15 
Lamb,        "       "          "  15 

Veal          "        "          "  20 

Pork         "       "          "  30 

Turkey,  10  Ibs.  wt.     .  3  hrs. 

Chickens,  3  to  4  Ibs.  wt.    1  to   l£  " 
Goose,  8  Ibs.      ...  2  " 

Tame  duck    ....     40  to  60  in. 

Game     "       ....     30  to  40  m. 

Grouse 30  " 

Pigeons 30  " 

Small  birds   ....     15  to  20  " 
Venison,  per  Ib.      .     .  15  " 

Fish,  6  to  8  Ibs.;  long, 

thin  fish     ....  1  hr. 

Fish,  4  to  6  Ibs. ;  thick 

halibut       ....  1   " 

Fish,  small    .     .     .     .     20  to  30  m. 


Boiling. 


Water, Iqt.overgas, covered       5  m. 
Water,  Iqt.  over  gas,ur.covered  4  " 

Coffee 3  to    5  " 

Tea,  steep  without  boiling         5   " 
Corn  meal     ....  3  hrs. 

Homipy,  fine     ...  1  hr. 

Oatmeal,  coarse,  steamed  3  hrs. 

Oatmeal,  rolled       .     .  30  m. 

Rice,  steamed    .     .     .     45  to  60  m. 
Rice,  boiled  .     .     .     .     15  to  20  m. 
Wheat  Granules     .     .     20  to  30m. 
Eggs,  soft  boiled    .     .      3  to    6  m. 
Eggs,  hard  boiled  .     .     15  to  20  m. 
Eggs,  coddled    ...       6  to    8  " 
Fish,  long,  whole,  per  Ib.  6  to  10  " 
Fish,  cubical,  per  Ib.    .  15  " 

Clams,  Oysters  ...      3  to    5  " 
Beef,cornedandalamode  3  to    5  hrs. 
Soup  Stock    ....      3  to    6  " 
Veal,  Mutton      ...      2  to    3  hrs. 


Tongue 3  to    4  hrs 

Potted  Pigeons  ...  2  " 

Ham 5  " 

Sweetbreads       .     .     .  20  to  30  in. 

Sweet  Corn   ....  5  to    8  " 
Asparagus,  Tomatoes, 

Peas 15  to  20  " 

Macaroni,  Potatoes, 

Spinach      .     .     .     .  20  to  30  " 
Squash,  Celery, 

Cauliflower     .     .     .  20  to  30  " 

Sprouts,  Greens      .     .  20  to  30  " 

Cabbage,  Beets,  young  30  to  45  " 

Parsnips,  Turnips  .     .  30  to  45  " 
Carrots.  Onions,  Salsify  30  to  60  " 
Beans,  String  and  She'll    1  to    2  hrs. 
Brown  I'read      .     .     . 

Puddings,  1  qt.,  steamed  3  " 

Puddings,  small      .     .  1  hr. 

Free/ing  Ice  Cream  30  m. 


Larding.  2$ 


Broiling. 

Steak,  one  inch  thick -    .  4m. 

Steak,  one  and  a  half  inch  thick 

Small,  thin  fi>h -  5  to    8  " 

Thick  tish 12  to  15  " 

Chops,  broiled  in  paper 8  to  10  " 

Chickens 20  " 

Liver,  Tripe,  Bacon •  3  to    8  " 

Larding. 

Many  kinds  of  meat  which  are  very  lean  and  clry  are 
improved  by  the  addition  of  some  kind  of  fat.  The  tender- 
loin or  fillet  of  beef,  the  thick  part  of  the  leg  of  veal,  grouse, 
and  liver,  are  often  prepared  in  this  way. 

Larding  is  drawing  small  strips  of  fat  salt  pork  or  bacon 
through  the  surface  of  the  meat ;  daubing  is  forcing  strips 
of  pork  through  the  entire  thickness  of  the  meat.  Take  a 
piece  of  fat  salt  pork  two  inches  wide  and  four  inches 
long.  Shave  off  the  rind  the  long  way  of  the  pork  ;  then 
cut  two  or  three  slices  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
the  same  way  as  the  rind  ;  cut  onl}"  to  the  membrane  which 
lies  about  an  inch  below  the  rind,  as  this  is  the  firmest 
part  of  the  pork  ;  then  cut  each  slice  across  the  width,  into 
strips  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  This  will  make  the 
lardoons  one  quarter  of  an  inch  wide  and  thick  and  two 
inches  long.  Insert  one  end  of  the  lardoon  into  the  end 
of  the  larding- needle,  then  with  the  point  of  the  needle 
take  up  a  stitch  half  an  inch  deep  and  one  inch  wide  in 
the  surface  of  the  meat.  Draw  the  needle  through,  and 
help  the  pork  to  go  through  by  pushing  until  partly  through, 
then  hold  the  end  of  the  pork  and  draw  the  needle  out, 
leaving  the  pork  in  the  meat,  with  the  ends  projecting 
at  equal  lengths.  Take  up  more  stitches  one  inch  apart 
in  parallel  or  alternate  rows,  until  the  whole  surface  is 
covered. 

DauUng  is  applied  to  a  broad,  thick  piece  of  beef  or 
veal.  Cut  the  pork  in  strips  one  third  of  an  inch  wide  and 
thick,  and  as  long  as  the  meat  is  thick.  Punch  a  hole 
clear  through  the  meat  with  a  steel,  and  then  insert  the 


26  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

lardoon  with  a  large  larding-needle  or  with  the  fingers. 
The  salt  and  fat  from  the  lardoons  penetrate  the  inside  of 
the  meat,  and  by  many  are  considered  an  improvement. 
Those  who  object  to  the  pork  will  find  that  beef  may  be 
seasoned  as  well  by  covering  the  surface  with  nice  beef 
suet,  salted  ;  or  the  pork  may  be  laid  on  the  meat  and 
removed  after  cooking.  The  process  is  not  difficult,  re- 
quiring no  more  skill  than  any  other  kind  of  sewing. 

Boning. 

Any  one  who  can  use  a  sharp  knife,  and  scrape  meat  or 
fish  from  a  bone,  without  cutting  her  own  flesh,  can  bone 
anything,  from  the  smallest  bird,  chop,  or  fish,  to  a  leg  or 
forequarter  of  lamb,  or  a  turkey.  A  small  knife  with  a 
sharp,  short,  pointed  blade,  is  all  that  is  required.  It  is 
well  to  begin  on  a  small  scale  b}T  removing  the  bone  from 
a  chop  or  steak.  The  aim  is  to  remove  the  flesh  from  the 
bone  without  cutting  into  the  flesh,  or  destroying  its  shape 
more  than  is  necessa^. 

To  Bone  a  Chop  or  Steak.  —  Begin  at  the  bone  end,  scrape 
the  meat  away,  leaving  the  bone  clean  and  the  flesh  un- 
broken. If  there  be  a  piece  of  tenderloin  under  the  bone, 
remove  it,  and  put  it  up  close  to  the  meat,  which  was 
above  the  bone  in  the  original  form. 

Directions  for  boning  fish  are  given  on  page  161. 

To  Bone  a  Leg  of  Mutton.  —  Cut  it  off  at  the  first  joint, 
insert  the  knife  near  the  joint,  and  loosen  the  flesh  from 
the  bone,  leaving  all  the  gristle  and  tendons  on  the  bone. 
Then  begin  at  the  tail  end,  and  scrape  the  fat  away  from 
the  backbone,  then  follow  the  bone  (you  can  easily  tell  by 
the  feeling,  if  you  cannot  see  it)  until  you  come  to  the 
joint ;  leave  all  the  gristle  and  cords  on  the  bone,  and  con- 
tinue scraping  off  the  flesh  till  the  whole  bone  is  out.  One 
could  easily  cut  through  from  the  outside  to  the  bone  and 
remove  it  in  that  way ;  but  the  flesh  would  -  have  to  be 
sewed  together,  and  much  of  the  juice  would  escape, 
After  removing  the  bone,  stuff  the  cavity  left  by  the  bone, 


Boning.  27 


and  sew  the  skin  together  at  the  smaller  end.  Then  bring 
the  edges  together  at  the  upper  end,  crowding  all  the  flesh 
inside,  and  sew  the  skin  together  tightly.  This  gives  a 
rectangular  form  of  solid  meat  and  stuffing.  When  salted 
and  floured  and  exposed  to  a  hot  oven,  the  juices  are  kept 
inside ;  the  meat  is  more  conveniently  served,  and,  when 
cold,  does  not  become  dry  and  hard. 

Any  other  pieces  of  meat  are  boned  in  a  similar  manner. 

To  Bone  a  Bird,  Fowl,  or  Turkey.  —  In  this  case  the 
flesh  is  to  be  kept  in  the  skin  in  order  to  preserve  the 
shape.  The  skin  should  be  firm  and  unbroken,  and 
the  bird  should  not  be  drawn.  Remove  the  head  and  pin- 
feathers,  singe  and  wipe  carefully.  Remove  the  tendons 
from  the  legs,  and  loosen  the  skin  round  the  end  of  the 
drumstick.  Make  an  incision  through  the  skin  from  the 
neck  to  the  middle  of  the  back,  or  near  the  junction  of 
the  side  bone.  Scrape  the  flesh  with  the  skin  away  from 
the  backbone  until  you  feel  the  end  of  the  shoulder-blade  ; 
loosen  the  flesh  from  this,  and  then  follow  the  bone  to  the 
wing  joint,  and  down  to  the  middle  joint  in  the  wing. 
The  skin  lies  very  near  the  bone  underneath  the  joint, 
and  care  must  be  taken  to  avoid  cutting  through  the  skin 
at  these  places.  Leave  the  first  bone  in  the  wing  to  aid 
in  keeping  the  shape  ;  it  may  be  removed  before  serving. 
In  small  birds  there  is  so  little  meat  on  the  wings,  that 
it  is  just  as  well  to  cut  them  off  at  the  middle  joint.  Re- 
move the  bone  from  the  other  wing  in  the  same  way,  then 
follow  the  collar  bone  from  the  wing  down  to  the  breast- 
bone, loosening  the  crop  from  the  flesh.  In  removing  the 
flesh  from  the  breastbone,  be  careful  not  to  cut  through 
the  skin  on  the  ridge.  The  flesh  may  be  pushed  away 
with  the  fingers,  and  the  fillets  or  pieces  that  are  detached 
from  the  other  flesh  can  be  laid  aside,  and  put  in  place 
afterwards.  When  the  breastbone  is  bare,  separate  the 
flesh  from  the  ribs,  and  be  careful  not  to  break  through 
the  membrane  into  the  inside.  Remove  the  flesh  round 
the  second  joint,  then  the  drumsticks,  turning  the  flesh 
wrong  side  out  as  in  pulling  a  glove  from  the  finger 


28  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Repeat  this  process  on  the  other  side.  Then  scrape  down 
to  the  end  of  the  backbone,  and  cut  through  the  bone, 
leaving  a  part  of  it  in  the  tail.  Separate  the  membrane 
under  the  body  without  breaking.  Thus  you  have  the 
flesh  in  the  skin,  and  the  skeleton  left  entire  with  the  con- 
tents undisturbed  in  the  inside.  Lay  the  stuffing  in,  filling 
out  the  legs  and  wings,  then  sew  the  skin  along  the  back, 
and  skewer  or  tie  into  the  original  shape. 

An  easier  way  of  boning  a  fowl  where  it  is  to  be  rolled 
like  a  galantine,  is  to  cut  off  the  wings  at  the  second  joint, 
break  the  drumstick  half-way  from  the  joint,  cut  the  skin 
down  the  entire  length  of  the  back,  remove  the  flesh  from 
the  wing  and  second  joint,  turning  the  skin  and  flesh  off 
like  a  glove  ;  then  do  the  same  on  the  other  wing  and  leg, 
leaving  the  breast  till  the  last.  The  wings  and  legs  are 
turned  inside,  the  stuffing  is  laid  in  the  flesh,  and  the 
whole  rolled  over  and  over,  and  sewed  on  the  edge  of  the 
skin  and  at  the  ends  of  the  roll. 

Measuring. 

It  has  been  said  that  "  good  cooks  never  measure  any- 
thing." They  do.  They  measure  by  judgment  and  ex- 
perience ;  and  until  you  have  a  large  share  of  both  these 
essential  qualities,  use  your  spoon  and  cup  or  scales. 

Measures,  in  preference  to  weights,  are  used  in  nearly 
all  these  receipts,  as  they  are  more  convenient  for  the  ma- 
jority of  housekeepers.  When  measured  and  estimated  by 
the  Table  of  Weights  and  Measures  on  page  30,  the  cu}; 
and  spoon  may  be  used  as  accurately  as  the  scales. 

Flour,  meal,  sugar,  salt,  spices,  and  soda  should  al- 
ways be  sifted  before  measuring.  Any  other  materials 
that  have  been  packed,  like  mustard  and  baking  powder, 
if  not  sifted,  should  be  stirred,  and  broken  up  lightly. 
One  tablespoonful  of  solid  mustard  taken  carelessly  frorn 
the  box  has  been  found  equal  to  three  tablespoonfuls 
measured  after  sifting. 

The  saltspoons,  teaspoons,  and  tablespoons  used  in  these 
receipts  are  the  silver  spoons  now  in  general  use.  Iron 


Measuring.  29 


mixing-spoons  vary  much  in  size,  but  there  is  a  size 
which  holds  exactly  the  same  as  a  silver  tablespoon.  Be 
carefnl  to  use  this  size  in  measuring.  The  cup  is  the 
common  kitchen  cup  holding  half  a  pint  Those  with 
handles  are  more  convenient 

To  measure  a  rounded  teaspoonful  of  dry  material,  dip 
into  the  sifted  material,  and  take  up  a  heaping  spoonful, 
shake  it  slightly  until  it  is  just  rounded  over,  ov  convex 
in  tb«  same  proportion  as  the  spoon  is  concave.  A  level 

zspoonful  means  the  spoon  filled  lightly,  and  levelled  off 
with  a  knife.  One  half  teatpoonjul  is  most  accurately 
measured  by  dividing  through  the  middle  lengthwise. 
When  divided  across  the  width  the  tip  is  smaller  than  the 
lower  half.  A  heaping  teaspoonful  is  all  the  spoon  will 
hold  of  any  lightly  sifted  material.  A  teaspoonful  of  liquid 
is  the  spoon  full  to  the  brim. 

TaUespoonfuls  are  measured  in  the  same  way. 

A  cupful  of  dry  material  should  be  filled  and  heaped 
lightly  (not  shaken  down) ,  then  levelled  off  even  with  the 
top.  A  small  scoop  should  be  kept  in  the  flour  or  sugar 
to  use  in  filling  the  cup.  A  heaping  cupful  is  all  the  cup  will 
hold.  A  cupful  of  liquid  is  not  what  you  can  carry  without 
spilling,  but  what  the  cup  will  hold  without  running  over ; 
full  to  the  brim.  Place  your  cup  in  a  saucer,  while  filling 
it,  or  in  the  bowl  in  which  the  liquid  is  to  be  poured. 
Half  a  cupful  is  not  half  the  distance  from  the  bottom  to 
the  rim.  Most  cups  are  smaller  at  the  bottom,  for  which 
allowance  must  be  made.  Take  two  cups  of  the  same 
size  and  shape,  fill  one  with  water,  then  poor  the  water 
without  spilling  into  the  other  cup  until  it  stands  at  the 
same  level  in  both  cups.  This  gives  you  the  half-cupful 
exactly,  which  in  the  cups  used  here  is  two  thirds  of  the 
height,  or  within  an  inch  of  the  top.  The  quarter  and 
three-quarter  measures  may  be  found  in  the  same  way.  A 
scant  cupful  is  within  a  quarter  of  an  inch  of  the  top. 

"Butter  the  size  of  an  egg"  is  a  very  common  expression. 
This  equals  about  one  quarter  of  a  cupful,  or  two  ounces, 
or  one  heaping  tablespoonful,  either  of  which  is  more  easily 


3O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

written  than  the  first  expression.  Place  an  egg  in  one 
tablespoon,  then  pack  butter  in  another  till  it  fills  the 
spoon  in  the  same  proportion  as  the  egg,  and  you  will 
easily  carry  it  in  mind. 

Have  your  materials  measured  or  at  hand,  and  all  uten- 
sils ready  before  beginning  the  mixing,  or  putting  the 
ingredients  together.  Keep  a  bucket  or  pan  full  of  flour, 
freshly  sifted  each  day,  and  ready  for  use.  Measure  flour 
first,  and  put  it  in  a  bowl  or  pan  together  with  salt,  soda, 
cream  of  tartar,  and  spice ;  measure  butter  and  put  it  in 
the  mixing-bowl ;  then  measure  the  sugar,  and,  in  scraping 
out  the  sugar,  take  the  butter  which  has  adhered  to  the 
cup.  Break  your  eggs  on  the  edge  of  the  cup  ;  if  the  white 
be  clear,  the  egg  is  good.  Put  the  yolks  in  one  bowl  and 
the  whites  in  another ;  measure  the  milk  or  liquid,  and, 
after  using  the  beaten  37olk,  clean  out  the  bowl  with  the 
milk.  Or,  measure  all  the  dry  ingredients,  break  and  sep- 
arate the  eggs,  measure  the  milk,  add  it  to  the  beaten 
yolks,  and  measure  the  melted  butter  last.  In  either  way 
you  can  make  one  cup  do  for  all  without  washing.  "Two 
eggs  beaten  separately  "  means  that  the  yolks  and  whites 
are  to  be  beaten  separately,  not  each  whole  egg  beaten 
separately. 

A  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter  is  measured  after  melt- 
ing. A  tablespoonful  of  butter  melted  is  measured  before 
melting. 

To  economize  space,  in  many  of  the  receipts  the  abbre- 
viations are  written :  one  cup  for  one  cupful,  tablesp.  for 
tablespoonful,  teasp.  for  teaspoonful,  and  saltsp.  for  salt- 
spoonful.  All  these  measures  mean  a  full  measure,  unless 
scant  or  heaping  measures  are  specified. 


Table  of  Weights  and  Measures. 

4  saltspoonfuls  of  liquid  =  1  teaspoonful. 

4  teaspoonfuls  of  liquid  —  1  tablespoonful. 

3  teaspoonfuls  of  dry  material  =  1  tablespoonful. 

4  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid  =  1  wineglass,  or  £  gill,  or  i  cup 
2  gills  =  1  cup,  or  £  pint. 


Table  of  Proportions. 


16  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid 

12  tablespoonf  uls  of  dry  material 

8  heaping  tablespoonf  uls  of  dry  material 
4  cups  of  liquid 

4  cups  of  flour 

2  cups  of  solid  butter 

\  cup  of  butter 

2  cups  of  granulated  sugar 
2£  cups  of  powdered  sugar 

3  cups  of  meal 

1  pint  of  milk  or  water 

1  pint  of  chopped  meat  packed  solidly 

9  large  eggs,  10  medium  eggs 

1  round  tablespoonful  of  butter 
1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter 
Butter  the  size  of  an  egg 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sugar 

2  round  tablespoonfuls  of  flour 
2  round  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee 

2  round  tablespoonfuls  of  powd  sugar 

1  tablespoonful  of  liquid 

1  bottle  S.  M.  wine 

1  bottle  brandy 

1  small  bottle  Foss'  extract 

1  small  bottle  Foss'  extract 

1  flask  of  olive  oil 


=  1  cup. 

=  1  cup. 

=  1  cup. 

=  1  quart 

=  1  pound,  or  1  quart 

=  1  pound. 

=  4  pound. 

~  1  pound. 

=  1  pound. 

=  1  pound. 

—  1  pound, 
rr  1  pound- 
=  1  pound. 
=  1  ounce. 

—  2  ounces,  or  J  cup 
=  2  ounces,  or  J  cup 
=  1  ounce. 

=  1  ounce. 
=  1  ounce. 
=  1  ounce. 

—  i  ounce. 

=  3  cups,  or  48  tablespoonfuls. 
=  li  cups,  or  24  tablespoonfuls. 
=  £  cup  scant,  or  3  tablespoonfuls 
=  12  teaspoonfuls. 
=  1£  cups,  or  20  tablespoonfuls. 


Table  of  Proportions. 

1  scant  measure  of  liquid  to  3  full  measures  of  flour,  for  bread. 
1  scant  measure  of  liquid  to  2  full  measures  of  flour,  for  muffins. 
1  scant  measure  of  liquid  to  1  full  measure  of  flour,  for  batters, 
i  cup  of  yeast,  or  ±  of  compressed  yeastcake,  to  one  pint  of  liquid. 
1  level  teasp.  of  soda  and  2  full  tesisp.  of  cream  tartar  to  1  quart  of  flour. 
8  level,  or  2  heaped  teaspoons  of  baking-powder  to  1  quart  of  flour. 
1  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  1  pint  of  sour  milk. 
1  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  1  cup  of  molasses. 
1  saltspoonful  of  salt  to  1  quart  of  milk  for  custards. 
1  teaspoonful  of  extract  to  1  quart  of  custard. 
1  saltspoonful  of  salt  to  1  loaf  of  sponge  cake. 
1  teaspoonful  of  extract  to  1  loaf  of  plain  cake. 
1  saltspoonful  of  spice  to  1  loaf  of  plain  cake. 
1  teaspoonful  of  salt  to  1  quart  of  soup  stock  or  2  quarts  of  flour. 
1  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper  to  1  quart  of  soup  stock. 
1  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs  to  1  quart  of  soup  stock. 
1  tablespoonful  of  each  chopped  vegetable  to  1  quart  of  soup  stock. 
A  speck  of  cayenne  pepper  is  what  you  can  take  up  on  the  point  of  a  pen- 
knife or  on  a  quarter-inch  square  surface. 
A  pinch  of  salt  or  spice  is  about  a  saltspoonful. 
A  pinch  of  hops  is  £  of  a  cup. 

In  these  recipes,  flour,  sugar,  and  butter  are  measured  by  the  rounded  table- 
spoon. 

Salt,  pepper,  spice,  soda,  and  baking-powder  are  measured  by  the  level  tea- 
spoon. 


32  The  Boston  Coek  Book. 

The  proportions  of  seasoning  given  in  these  receipts  are 
not  sufficient  for  those  who  like  highly  seasoned  food.  It 
is  easier  to  add  more,  than  to  remove  an}'  if  too  highly 
seasoned. 


Mixed  Spice  for  Rich  Cakes  and  Plum  Puddings. 

i  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves  and  allspice. 

1  teaspoonful  each  of  mace  and  grated  nutmeg 

3  teaspoonfuls  of  cinnamon. 


Spice  Salt  for  Soups  and  Stuffings. 

4  ounces  of  salt. 

2  ounces  of  celery  salt. 

1  ounce  each  of  white  pepper  and  ground  thyme, 

1  ounce  each  of  marjoram  and  summer  savory - 

i  ounce  of  sage. 

1  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper. 

i  teaspoonful  each  of  cloves,  allspice,  and  mace. 

Mix,  sift,  and  keep  closely  covered. 


Mixed  Whole  Herbs,  for  Soups  and  Braised  Meats. 

1  bunch  each  of  whole  thyme  and  marjoram. 
1  bunch  each  of  summer  savory  and  sage, 
i  pound  of  bay  leaves. 

Crush  and  break  the  leaves,  blossoms,  and  stalks,  and 
mix  thoroughly. 

Mixing. 

Next  to  care  in  measuring  comes  the  manner  of  mixing. 
The  most  accurate  measurement  of  the  best  materials  is 
often  rendered  useless  by  a  neglect  to  put  them  together 
properly,  and  the  blame  is  usually  charged  to  the  oven  or 
the  receipt.  There  are  three  distinct  ways  of  mixing: 
Stirring,  Beating,  and  Gutting  or  Folding. 

Stirring.  —  Let  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  rest  slightly  on 
the  bottom  of  the  mixing-bowl ;  then  move  round  and 
round  in  widening  circles,  without  lifting  the  spoon  out  of 


Mixing.  33 


the  mixture,  except  to  scrape  the  sides  of  the  bowl  occa- 
sionally. Stir  slowly  at  first,  to  avoid  spattering ;  add  the 
liquid  gradually,  and  be  sure  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  (not 
the  edge  nor  the  tip  merely)  touches  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  the  bowl.  This  is  mashing  as  well  as  stirring,  and  the 
mixture  soon  becomes  a  paste.  When  perfectly  smooth 
and  free  from  lumps,  add  more  liquid  till  you  have  the' 
desired  consistency.  We  stir  flour  and  water  together  for 
a  thickening,  or  butter  and  flour  and  milk  for  a  sauce. 
We  stir  when  we  rub  butter  to  a  cream,  or  when  we  make 
a  batter  or  semi-dough.  When  we  make  a  stiff  dough  we 
stir  at  first,  and  then  turn  the  whole  mass  over,  bringing 
the  knife  or  spoon  round  the  bowl  and  cutting  up  through 
the  dough. 

Beating.  —  Tip  the  bowl  slightly,  and  hold  the  spoon  so 
that  the  edge  scrapes  the  bowl,  and  bring  it  up  through 
the  mixture  and  over  with  a  long  quick  stroke  to  the 
opposite  side;  under,  and  up  through  again,  lifting  the 
spoon  out  of  the  mass  and  cutting  clear  through,  scrap- 
ing from  the  bottom  at  every  stroke.  Keep  the  bowl  of 
the  spoon  and  the  sides  of  the  mixing-bowl  well  scraped 
out,  that  all  the  material  may  be  equally  beaten. 

We  stir  simply  to  blend  two  or  more  materials ;  we 
beat  to  add  all  the  air  possible  to  the  mixture.  We 
beat  eggs  or  batter  or  soft  dough.  The  albumen  of  the 
eggs  and  the  gluten  of  the  flour,  owing  to  their  viscidity  or 
glutinous  properties,  catch  the  air  and  hold  it  in  the  form 
of  cells,  something  as  we  make  soap  bubbles  by  blowing 
air  into  soapy  water.  The  faster  we  beat,  and  the  more 
we  bring  the  material  up  from  the  bowl  into  the  air,  the 
more  bubbles  we  have ;  but  one  stirring  motion  will  de- 
stroy them.  Yolks  of  eggs  should  be  beaten  nearly  as 
much  as  the  whites,  or  till  they  are  light  or  lemon-colored, 
and  thicken  perceptibly.  The  whites  should  be  beaten  till 
they  are  stiff  and  dry,  or  fly  off  in  flakes,  or  can  be  turned 
upside  down  without  spilling.  When  the  two  are  to  be 
put  together,  alwa}'s  plan  to  turn  the  whites  into  the  yolks, 
as  there  is  less  waste  than  when  the  yolks  are  turned  into 

3 


34  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  whites.  Let  the  whites  stand  a  minute,  then  run  a 
palette  knife  round  the  edge  close  to  the  bowl ;  they  will 
slip  out  easily,  and  leave  the  bowl  almost  clean.  For 
beating  eggs,  for  nearty  all  purposes  the  Dover  egg-beater 
is  the  best.  There  should  be  two  sizes,  the  larger  one  for 
the  whites  of  eggs.  Hold  the  beater  lightly  in  the  left 
hand,  and  move  it  round  through  the  egg  while  turning 
the  handle.  For  frosting,  and  snow  pudding,  and  all  beat- 
ing of  soft  dough,  use  a  perforated  wooden  spoon.  Bowls 
with  slightly  flaring  sides,  and  not  too  deep  to  be  clasped 
from  bottom  to  rim  in  the  left  hand,  are  most  convenient. 
If  tipped  slightly  toward  the  right,  the  beating  is  done 
more  effectually. 

Cutting,  or  Folding,  or  Lifting.  —  Omelets,  sponge  cake, 
whipped  cream,  etc.,  should  have  the  beaten  white  cut  or 
folded  in  carefully  to  avoid  breaking  the  air  bubbles.  Turn 
the  mixture  over  with  the  spoon,  cut  through,  lift  up,  and 
fold  the  materials  together,  lifting  the  part  from  below,  up 
and  over,  and  mixing  very  gently  until  just  blended.  Do 
not  stir  round  and  round,  nor  beat  quickly. 

All  mixtures  which  are  raised  with  eggs  alone,  should 
have  the  yolks  and  whites  of  the  eggs  thoroughly  and 
separately  beaten ;  any  very  thin  batter,  like  pop-overs, 
pancakes,  or  gems  made  without  eggs,  should  be  beaten 
vigorously  just  before  baking.  And  many  persons  are 
most  successful  when  all  the  beating  of  the  eggs  is  done 
in  the  batter. 

Graham  or  whole-wheat  flour  is  better  than  white  flour 
for  gems  that  are  made  without  eggs,  because  it  contains 
more  gluten. 

Shall  we  stir  only  one  way?  No;  stir  any  way  you 
please,  so  long  as  you  blend  or  mix  the  materials.  But 
after  beating  in  air  bubbles,  don't  break  them  by  stirring, 
unless  you  wish  to  keep  up  the  game  of  cross  purposes 
indefinitely.  Always  let  the  last  motion,  before  turning 
into  the  pans,  be  one  of  quick,  vigorous  beating,  except 
in  those  receipts  where  folding  instead  of  beating  is 
indicated. 


Cost  of  Food  Material. 


Table  of  Average  Cost  of  Material  used  in  Cooking. 


1  cup  of  flour  or  meal    .     .     . 

30.01 

1        "    sugar      ... 

.03 

1        "    butter     1J 

»  to  .20 

.03 

1  cup  of  molasses     .... 

.05 

1        "      milk  

.02 

1  tablespoonful  of  wine     .     . 

.02 

1        "           "         brandy     . 

.04 

1  teaspoonful  of  vanilla    .    . 

.02 

1        "           "     spice  .     .     . 

.02 

1        "           "     soda,  and  2 

teaspoonfuls  of  cream-tartar 

.02 

1  tablespoonful  of  butter    .     . 

.03 

Butter  size  of  an  egg    .     .    . 

.05 

1  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil     . 

.02 

2  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee  .     . 

.05 

2  teaspoonfuls  of  tea     .     .     . 

.01 

1  quart  of  milkman's  cream  . 

.25 

"      Deerfoot  cream 

.60 

box  of  gelatine       .         .     • 

.16 

.02 

.03 

pound  of  raisins     .     .    . 

18 

currants  .    .     . 

.10 

citron     .     .    . 

.18 

crackers      .    . 

.10 

tapioca  .     .    . 

.07 

.09 

macaroni     .    .     . 

.18 

1  pound  of  spaghetti 

"     cornstarch 
1  can  of  tomatoes 

salmon    .    . 

lobster    . 


.  $0.16 
.10 
.15 
.18 
.15 
devilled  ham  and  tongue  .30 


1  tumbler  of  jelly 
1  jar  of  marmalade 
1  pound  of  tea 


.     .        .35 
.    .        .25 
75 

coffee  .  ...  -38 
chocolate  ...  .40 
nutmeg  ....  .32 

mace .60 

cloves,  cassia   .     .        .15 

ginger 10 

mustard 12 

herbs,  ground  .     .        .10 
Package  of  whole  herbs    .     .  8 

1  pound  of  cheese      ....        .18 
Parmesan  cheese  .         .50 

1  peck  of  potatoes 25 

apples 50 

1  quart  of  onions      ....        .10 

1  carrot 02 

1  turnip 05 

1  bunch  of  celery 20 

1  handful  of  parsley  .  .  .  .05 
1  bunch  of  watercresses  .  .  .05 
1  head  of  lettuce 10 


These  prices  are  for  the  best  materials,  and  are  esti- 
mated for  the  season,  from  October  to  June,  when  butter 
and  eggs  are  higher  than  during  the  summer,  and  for 
Boston  markets,  which  vary  greatly  from  the  prices  in 
other  parts  of  the  United  States. 


36  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


BREAD  AND  BREAD  MAKING. 

Importance  of  Bread.  — Bread  is  one  of  the  earliest,  the 
most  generally  used,  and  the  most  important  forms  of 
food  adopted  by  mankind.  Nothing  in  the  whole  range 
of  domestic  life  more  affects  the  health  and  happiness  of 
the  family  than  the  quality  of  its  daily  bread.  With  good 
bread,  the  plainest  meal  is  a  feast  in  itself ;  without  it,  the 
most  elaborately  prepared  and  elegantly  served  menu  is 
unsatisfactor}7. 

Bread-making  is  at  once  the  easiest  and  the  most  difficult 
branch  of  culinary  science,  —  easy,  if  only  sufficient  inter- 
est be  taken  to  master  a  few  elementary  principles  and 
to  follow  them  alwa}7s,  using  the  judgment  of  the  best 
authorities,  until  experience  furnishes  a  sufficient  guide ; 
difficult,  if  there  be  any  neglect  to  use  proper  care  and 
materials.  It  should  be  regarded  as  one  of  the  highest 
accomplishments ;  and  if  one  tenth  part  of  the  interest, 
time,  and  thought  which  are  devoted  to  cake  and  pastry 
and  fancy  cooking  were  spent  upon  this  most  important 
article  of  food,  the  presence  of  good  bread  upon  our  tables 
would  be  invariably  secured. 

Origin  and  Meaning  of  "Bread"  —  Bread  is  made  from  a 
variety  of  substances,  — roots,  fruits,  and  the  bark  of  trees  ; 
but  more  generally  from  certain  grains.  The  word  bread 
is  derived  from  the  verb  to  bray,  or  pound,  expressive  of  the 
old  method  of  preparing  the  grain.  Bread  is  therefore 
made  of  something  brayed,  as  brayed  wheat  or  brayed 
corn.  But  these  brayed  or  ground  materials  are  not  prop- 
erly bread  until  they  are  mixed  or  moistened  with  water. 
Then  the  brayed  grain  becomes  dough,  from  a  word  mean- 
ing to  wet,  or  moisten.  In  primitive  times  this  wetted 
meal  or  dough  was  baked  at  once  in  hot  ashes,  and  made 


Wheat.  37 


a  firm,  compact  bread,  exceedingly  hard  of  digestion. 
Accidentally  some  one  discovered  that  by  letting  the  dough 
stand  till  it  had  fermented,  and  then  mixing  it  with  new 
dough,  it  raised,  or  lifted,  the  whole  mass,  and  made  it 
lighter  and  more  porous.  Thus  we  have  our  word  loaf, 
from  lifan,  to  raise,  or  lift  up.  The  old  dough — or  leaven, 
as  it  is  called — lifts  up  the  dough.  The  raised  m^_s  is  held 
in  place  03-  the  heat  in  baking,  and  becomes  the  loaf  of 
raised  bread. 

Bread  made  from  Wheat.  —  Bread  is  made  principally  from 
wheat  flour.  Rye  and  corn  meal  are  sometimes  used,  but 
better  results  are  obtained  when  there  is  a  mixture  of  wheat 
with  one  or  more  of  these  grains.  Rye  used  alone  makes 
a  close,  moist,  sticky  bread ;  while  corn  meal  alone  makes 
too  dry  and  crumbly  a  loaf. 

Wheat  is  an  annual  grass  of  unknown  origin,  cultivated 
more  extensively  jn  the  Northern  hemisphere.  There  are 
over  one  hundred  and  fifty  varieties  of  wheat.  They  are 
classified  as  red  or  white,  in  reference  to  the  color  of  the 
grains;  as  winter  or  summer,  —  winter  wheat  being  sown 
in  the  autumn,  and  summer  wheat  in  the  spring;  as  soft 
or  hard,  — soft  wheat  being  tender  and  floiuy  or  starchy, 
and  hard  wheat  being  tough,  firm,  and  containing  hiore 
gluten. 

Chemical  Composition  of  Wheat. — Wheat  is  the  only  grain 
which  contains  gluten  in  the  proper  proportion  and  of  the 
desired  qualit}'  essential  to 
the  making  of  light,  spongy 
bread.     It  contains  all  the 
elements  necessaiy  for  the 
growth  of  the  bod}' ;  but,  to 
meet  all  the  requirements  of 
nutrition,  the  whole  of  the 
"•rain,  with  the  exception  of 

Fio.  1      Grain  of  wheat,  showing  outer 
the    Ollter    husk,    Should    be  coat  of  silex  and  woody  fibre. 

used.      Wheat   has  several 

layers  of  bran  coats,  the  outer  one  of  which  is  almost  Wholly 

pure  silica  and  is  perfectly  indigestible.     Underneath  this 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


FIG.  JL    Grain  of  wheat  with  bran  coat 
removed. 


husk  lie  the  inner  bran  coats,  containing  gluten,  a  dark  sub- 

stance which  is  the  nitrogenous  or  flesh-forming  element, 

the  phosphates  and  other  min- 
eral matters  which  help  to 
make  up  the  bony  parts  of 
the  bod}*,  and  the  oil  which 
gives  the  characteristic  odor 
to  wheat  grains.  The  cen- 
tre, or  heart,  of  the  grain 
consists  of  cells  filled  with 
starch,  a  fine,  white,  mealy 

powder,  which  has  little  value  as  food  except  as  a  heat 

producer.      There  is  also  a  small  amount  of  gluten  dif- 

fused among  the  starch  cells.     For  convenience,  these  dif- 

ferent parts  of  the  wheat  will  be  designated  as  bran,  or 

the  outer  husk  ;  gluten,  or 

the  inner  bran  coats  ;  and 

starch,  or  the  heart  of  the 

wheat.   The  proportion  and 

quality  of  the  gluten  and 

starch  in  different  kinds  of 

wheat  vary  according  to  the 

climate  and  soil  in  which 

thev  are  erown       Thev  arp 
iney  a  .e  grown.        nej  are 

also  affected  by  the  method 
of  grinding  the  grain.  Wheat  grown  in  Southern  or  warm 
climates,  and  in  the  intense,  though  short,  summer  of  our 
own  Northwest,  contains  more  nitrogen  than  that  grown  in 
cold,  damp  climates.  It  loses  more  water  by  evaporation, 
and  consequently  the  seed  is  smaller  and  harder.  In  some 
varieties  of  wheat  the  outer  husk  is  thin  and  smooth,  and 
peels  off  readily  under  the  stones.  In  others,  it  is  thick 
and  rough,  and  adheres  closely  to  the  kernel.  In  some,  it 
is  light-colored  or  brittle  ;  in  others,  dark-colored  or  tough. 
The  husk}7  portion  of  wheat  is  about  fourteen  or  sixteen 
per  cent  of  the  whole  weight. 

The  gluten  of  wheat  is  a  gray,  tough,  elastic  substance, 
consisting  chiefly  of  vegetable  fibrine.    It  can  be  examinee! 


FlG'  3<    Graln  of 
ig  the  bran  .  B  the  gluten  .  c  the  gtarch 


Flour.  39 


easily  by  making  a  dough  of  flour  and  water,  and  working 
it  on  a  sieve  under  a  stream  of  water.  The  water  will 
carry  the  starch,  sugar,  gum,  and  mineral  matters  into  the 
pan  below,  leaving  a  lump  of  gluten  on  the  sieve.  It 
closely  resembles  a  piece  of  animal  skin,  and,  when  dried, 
has  a  glue-like  appearance ;  hence  its  name,  gluten.  The 
proportion  of  gluten  varies  from  eleven  to  fifteen  per  cent. 
This  tough,  elastic  quality  of  the  gluten  determines  the 
quality  of  the  flour.  The  more  gluten  and  the  tougher  or 
stronger  it  is,  the  better  the  flour.  The  gluten  of  good 
flour  will  swell  to  four  or  five  times  its  original  bulk  ;  while 
that  of  poor  flour  does  not  swell,  but  becomes  watery  and 
sticky,  and  sometimes  gives  off  a  disagreeable  odor,  owing 
to  the  deterioration  of  the  fatty  or  oily  element. 

Preparing  the  Flour. 

St.  Louis  Process.  —  There  are  several  methods  of  con- 
verting wheat  into  flour.  One  is  by  grinding  between  two 
horizontal  stones,  the  upper  one  revolving,  and  the  lower 
one  stationary.  The  surface  of  the  stones  presents  an 
infinite  number  of  minute  cutting  edges.  The  upper  stone 
is  convex,  the  lower  one  concave ;  but  instead  of  fitting 
perfectly,  the}'  approach  closer  together  from  the  centre 
outward,  so  that,  as  the  grain  is  poured  into  an  opening  in 
the  upper  stone,  it  is  at  first  rather  coarsely  crushed,  and 
then  cut  finer  and  finer,  as  it  is  carried  to  the  circumfer- 
ence by  the  centrifugal  force.  As  the  grain  leaves  the 
stones,  the  outer  husk  has  been  least  affected  ;  the  tough, 
coherent  gluten  is  divided  minutely,  while  the  brittle  starch, 
which  forms  two  thirds  of  the  grain,  is  completely  crushed. 
The  miller  then  divides  these  products,  by  sifting  or  bolt- 
ing, into  fine  flour,  coarse  flour,  and  bran. 

The  Iran  should  be  discarded  as  utterly  useless  for 
human  food  ;  but  it  is  often  mixed  with  an  inferior  quality 
of  fine  flour,  and  sold  as  Graham  flour.  It  was  at  one 
time  considered  valuable  as  a  food  for  those  suffering 
from  constipation,  chiefly  on  account  of  its  coarseness  ;  but 


4O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

science  has  shown  us  recently  that  minute  points  of  glass 
(and  bran  is  nothing  else)  are  not  Nature's  best  agents  in 
removing  effete  matters  from  the  system.  All  of  the  so- 
called  Graham  flour  made  by  this  process  should  be  sifted 
before  using. 

The  coarse  flour  will  vary  in  quality,  according  as  it  has 
more  or  less  of  the  outer  bran  mixed  with  it.  In  the  soft 
wheats  the  husk  peels  off  readily  under  the  stones,  and  is 
easily  separated  by  bolting ;  and  as  these  soft  varieties 
contain  the  smallest  proportion  of  gluten,  they  yield  a  coarse 
flour,  containing  only  an  average  amount  of  gluten,  and 
the  whitest  fine-flour.  But  in  the  hard,  flinty  wheats,  this 
outer  husk  clings  so  closely  that  much  of  it  is  ground  up 
finely  with  the  flour,  giving  it  a  dark  color.  This  flour,  as 
it  contains  a  large  proportion  of  gluten,  would  be  more 
nutritious  were  it  not  that  much  of  the  gluten  adheres  to 
the  hulls,  and  is  lost  by  sifting  them  out,  and  much  of  the 
fine,  flinty  bran  is  retained  in  the  flour,  which  makes  it 
irritating  and  indigestible. 

The  quality  of  the  fine  flour  depends  upon  the  quality  of 
the  wheat,  in  the  first  place  ;  also  upon  the  number  of  sift- 
ings,  being  richer  in  gluten  the  less  it  is  sifted  ;  and  upon 
the  way  in  which  it  is  stored.  The  process  of  grinding 
with  the  stones  heats  the  flour ;  and  as  it  is  often  thrust 
upon  the  market  without  being  properly  cooled  and  dried, 
it  spoils  very  rapidly.  Flour  made  by  this  process  of 
grinding  is  called  the  St.  Louis,  or  old-process  flour.  When 
made  of  the  very  best  quality  of  grain  and  carefully  pre- 
pared, it  makes  a  sweet,  nutritious  bread,  and  is  excellent 
in  cake  and  pastiy.  It  is  often  designated  pastry  flour. 

Haxall  Process.  —  Another  method  of  making  flour  is 
by  the  new,  or  Haxall  process,  so  called  from  the  name  of 
the  inventor.  By  this  process  the  outer  husk  is  first  re- 
moved, or  decorticated;  then  the  cleaned  grain  is  cut  by  a 
system  of  knives,  which  reduces  it  to  a  fine  powder  with- 
out the  injurious  effects  of  heating.  This  flour  has  a 
slightly  granular  consistency,  owing  to  the  presence  of 
minute"  particles  of  hard,  flinty  gluten.  It  is  usually  made 


Flour.  41 

from  the  best  quality  of  wheat,  and  keeps  well.  It  is  con- 
sidered by  many  as  the  best  flour  for  bread,  as  it  makes  a 
whiter,  nicer-looking  loaf.  Haxall  flour  swells  more  than 
that  made  by  the  old  process,  as  it  contains  more  of  the 
gluten ;  the  same  measure  making  a  greater  quantity  of 
bread  than  the  St.  Louis  flour.  It  is,  therefore,  cheaper 
in  the  end,  though  costing  more  per  barrel.  By  repeated 
siftings,  this  flour  loses  its  gluten,  as  does  that  made  by 
the  St.  Louis  process,  and  consequently  is  then  inferior  as 
a  food.  But  we  can  supply  by  other  flours  and  other  food 
what  this  flour  lacks  in  nutritious  qualities ;  and  until  the 
popular  taste  is  educated  to  demand  the  amount  of  nutri- 
ment contained  in  bread  rather  than  the  whiteness  of  it,  as 
a  test  of  its  quality,  it  is  well  to  make  our  fine,  white  bread 
from  this,  which  is  the  best  flour,  and  have  it  as  nearly 
perfect  as  possible. 

There  have  been  many  variations  of  the  Haxall  process, 
and  all  are  included  under  the  term  new-process  flour \ 

Minnesota.  — The  Minnesota,  or  patent-process,  flour  is 
now  considered  one  of  the  best  grades.  The  Washburn, 
Pillsbury,  and  many  other  mills  located  in  Minneapolis  are 
the  largest  flour-mills  in  the  world,  and  produce  an  excel- 
lent quality  of  flour,  in  which  a  large  proportion  of  the 
gluten  is  retained.  This  Minnesota  flour  is  made  from 
carefully  selected  wheat  grown  in  the  Red  River  region, 
the  best  wheat-growing  section  in  America.  The  first  step 
in  the  process  is  the  breaking  off  of  the  germinal  point  of 
each  grain  by  what  are  called  ending  stones.  Then  it  is 
sent  through  corrugated  iron  rollers,  having  shallow  grooves 
cut  spirally  upon  them,  with  rounded  ridges  between,  and 
the  opposing  rollers  grooved  in  an  opposite  direction.  The 
grains  are  crushed  (not  ground)  ;  the  starchy  parts,  or 
middlings,  being  quite  finely  powdered  and  easily  separa- 
ted from  the  bran  or  tailings.  After  this  separation  the 
middlings  are  passed  through  ten  bolting-cloths,  and 
then  through  other  and  finer  corrugated  machines,  and 
made  into  the  various  grades  of  fine,  superfine,  and/an^ 
flours. 


42  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Health-Food  Flour.  —  A  still  better  method  of  convert- 
ing wheat  into  flour,  and  one  which  is  indorsed  By  leading 
scientists  and  physicians,  has  been  recently  introduced  by 
the  Health  Food  Company  of  New  York.  Only  the  choicest 
kinds  of  wheat  are  used.  The  outer  husk  is  first  removed 
by  moistening  the  grain,  and  subjecting  it  to  a  gentle  rub- 
bing by  what  is  termed  the  "attrition  process."  This 
softens  the  woody  fibre  of  the  outer  bran,  which  is  easily 
removed  by  sifting,  but  does  not  affect  the  hard  gluten 
coats.  The  grains  are  dried,  then  pulverized  into  various 
grades  by  a  compressed  cold-air  blast,  which  dashes  the 
grains  into  atoms  with  tremendous  force.  This  is  called 
whole-wheat  flour,  the  name  indicating  that  the  whole  of  the 
gluten,  or  nutritive  part  of  the  flour,  is  retained.  It  is  not 
sifted  like  other  flours,  but  pulverized  into  all  the  varieties 
of  crushed  wheat,  coarse  granulated  and  fine  granulated  wheat; 
each  variety,  even  the  finest  flour,  containing  all  that  is 
valuable  as  food.  Bread  made  with  this  flour  has  been 
found,  after  repeated  trial,  to  be  sweet  and  agreeable  to  the 
taste,  light  and  spongy  in  texture,  with  none  of  the  objec- 
tionable features  of  Graham  bread,  and  answering  fully  all 
the  demands  of  perfect  nutrition. 

Cheap  inferior  Graham  flour,  made  of  poor  flour  mixed 
with  bran,  is  worse  than  no  food  at  all.  Any  flour  con- 
taining much  of  the  indigestible  bran  causes  irritation  of 
the  digestive  organs ;  all  the  food  is  hurried  through  the 
alimentaty  canal  before  digestion  is  complete  or  all  the 
nutriment  can  be  absorbed,  and  thus  is  neither  economical 
nor  healthful.  Fine  flour  containing  the  most  gluten  is  the 
most  nutritious,  because  it  is  all  digested,  and  the  loss  of 
albuminous  material  can  be  supplied  from  other  sources. 

The  Arlington,  the  Franklin,  and  some  other  brands  of 
whole-wheat  flour,  are  highly  indorsed  by  those  familiar 
with  them. 

The  Tests  of  Good  Flour. 

The  first  requisite  in  making  good  bread  is  to  use  good 
flour.  Good  flour  should  not  be  pure  white  in  color,  but 


Tests  of  Flour.  43 


of  a  creamy,  yellowish-white  shade.  If  it  feel  damp, 
clammy,  or  sticky,  and  gradually  form  into  lumps  or 
cakes,  it  is  not  the  best.  Good  flour  holds  together  in  a 
mass,  when  squeezed  b}^  the  hand,  and  retains  the  impres- 
sion of  the  fingers,  and  even  the  marks  of  the  skin,  much 
longer  than  poor  flour;  when  made  into  a  dough,  it  is 
elastic,  easy  to  be  kneaded,  will  stay  in  a  round  puffy 
shape,  and  will  take  up  a  large  amount  of  water :  while 
poor  flour  will  be  sticky,  flatten,  or  spread  itself  over  the 
board,  and  will  never  seem  to  be  stiff  enough  to  be  handled, 
no  matter  how  much  flour  is  used.  Haxall  flour  has  a  fine 
granular  consistency,  and  runs  easily  through  the  sieve  or 
the  fingers  like  fine  meal ;  while  good  St.  Louis  flour  feels 
soft  and  oily.  It  is  extravagant  to  buy  poor  or  even 
doubtful  flour.  But,  should  it  have  every  appearance  of 
being  good  flour,  and  yet  not  make  good  bread,  do  not 
condemn  the  flour  without  a  fair  trial ;  and  be  sure  the 
fault  is  nowhere  else. 

Every  experienced  cook  has  her  own  tests  for  flour,  and 
some  of  them  are  amusing,  if  not  reliable.  The  best  way 
is  to  buy  a  small  quantity  at  first,  and  make  it  into  dough ; 
then,  if  satisfactory,  purchase  whatever  amount  is  re- 
quired, and  buy  this  same  brand  as  long  as  it  proves  of 
uniform  qualit}\  The  names  given  to  flour  are  not  a  sure 
criterion  of  the  quality.  The  flour  may  come  from  the 
same  growth  of  wheat,  and  be  ground  in  the  same  manner 
and  at  the  same  mill,  and  yet  the  miller  or  the  wholesale 
dealers  will  brand  it  differently.  And  the  same  brand  will 
vary  in  quality  from  year  to  year.  Some  of  the  varieties 
sold  in  Boston,  and  known  to  be  good  by  personal  trial, 
are  Pillsbury's,  Washburn  &  Crosby's,  Swan's  Down, 
Taylor's  Best,  Brown's  Best,  Marguerite,  etc.  ;  the  same 
flour  may  be  known  in  other  cities  under  different  names. 
There  are  others  equally  good,  and  every  year  some  new 
brand  is  announced.  It  is  estimated  that  one  barrel  of 
flour  will  last  one  person  one  year ;  which  gives  a  rule 
of  proportion  by  which  to  buy.  Most  good  housekeepers 
agree  that  flour  is  not  improved  by  long  keeping,  though 


44  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

flour  dealers  think  differently.  Flour  should  be  kept  in  a 
cool,  dry  place,  as  the  least  dampness  causes  it  to  absorb 
moisture ;  the  gluten  loses  its  tenacity,  becomes  sticky, 
and  the  bread  made  from  it  is  coarser  and  less  light. 

For  small  families  it  is  better  to  buy  whole-wheat  flour 
by  the  bag  or  half-barrel ;  Haxall,  for  bread,  by  the  bar- 
rel ;  and  the  best  St.  Louis  flour  for  cake  and  pastry,  by 
the  bag,  as  a  much  smaller  proportion  is  needed  (or  should 
be)  for  these  indigestibles,  than  for  the  "  staff  of  life." 

Bread,  Fermented  and  Unfermented. 

Now,  having  discussed  the  subject  of  the  flour,  the  next 
step  in  order  is  the  different  ways  of  making  it  into  bread. 
These  may  all  be  included  under  two  divisions,  —  those 
made  by  fermentation,  and  those  without  fermentation. 

Fermentation,  what  is  it  ?  —  Fermentation  is  that  change 
in  organic  substances  by  which  their  sugar,  starch,  gluten, 
etc.,  are  decomposed  or  recombined  into  new  compounds. 
This  change  may  be  spontaneous  under  favorable  condi- 
tions of  air,  moisture,  and  warmth ;  or  it  may  be  hastened 
by  the  presence  of  a  ferment.  A  ferment  is  some  albu- 
minous substance  in  a  state  of  decomposition,  and,  when 
introduced  into  any  other  albuminous  substance,  in  how- 
ever minute  a  quantity,  causes  a  change  which  pervades 
the  whole  mass.  These  fermenting  substances  are  in  great 
variety,  and  the  germs  of  some  of  them  are  always  present 
in  the  air.  There  are  different  kinds  of  fermentation. 

The  lactic  fermentation  is  the  change  in  milk  when  it 
sours.  The  casein,  or  albuminous  part  of  the  milk,  by 
exposure  to  the  air  and  warmth,  begins  to  decompose, 
becomes  a  ferment,  and  changes  the  sugar  of  the  milk  into 
an  acid  called  lactic  acid.  This  reacts  upon  the  remainder 
of  the  milk,  as  any  acid  would,  and  causes  it  to  coagulate 
or  harden,  and  gives  it  a  sour  taste. 

The  alcoholic  fermentation  is  that  which  is  produced  in 
substances  rich  in  sugar  or  starch,  as  the  fruits  and  grains 
from  which  wines  and  beer  are  made.  Some  of  these  fer- 


Fermentation.  45 


mcnt  germs  are  present  in  the  juice  of  guapes  ;  and  under 
the  influence  of  air,  moisture,  and  warmth,  they  seize 
upon  the  sugar  already  present  in  the  natural  fruit  juices, 
and  any  that  may  be  added,  and  convert  it  into  carbonic 
acid  gas  and  alcohol.  In  the  grains,  a  portion  of  the 
gluten  ferments  and  changes  the  starch  into  sugar,  and 
then  the  sugar  into  carbonic  acid  and  alcohol.  In  con- 
verting the  starch  into  sugar  there  is  no  change  evident  to 
the  eye  ;  but  as  soon  as  the  sugar  is  decomposed  into  alco- 
hol and  carbonic  acid  gas,  large  bubbles  of  gas  appear, 
which  swell  the  whole  mass. 

Acetic  fermentation  is  caused  by  allowing  alcoholic  fer- 
mentation to  go  on  beyond  a  certain  limit,  or  in  a  tem- 
perature above  90°.  A  familiar  illustration  of  this  is  the 
change  of  wine  or  cider  into  vinegar. 

Now,  bread-dough  contains  gluten,  sugar,  and  starch ; 
and  if  the  dough  be  kept  warm  for  a  certain  time,  lactic 
fermentation  will  be  developed  spontaneously,  and  the  bread 
made  from  such  dough  will  be  sour  and  heavy.  Alco- 
holic fermentation  can  also  be  spontaneously  produced  in 
dough,  by  making  first  a  batter  (as  the  semi-fluid  state 
is  more  favorable  to  rapid  chemical  change),  and  subject- 
ing it  to  a  temperature  of  110°  for  five  or  six  hours  ;  then, 
adding  more  flour,  allowing  it  to  rise  again,  and  then 
baking  it.  Bread  made  in  this  way  is  called  salt  or  milk- 
rising's  bread.  But  it  does  not  keep  well,  and  is  not  gen- 
erally liked. 

It  is  not  always  convenient  to  wait  for  dough  to  be 
raised  in  this  manner,  so  we  hasten  the  process  by  the 
addition  of  some  active  ferment.  Leaven,  or  a  piece  of 
old  dough,  left  to  sour,  and  then  mixed  with  the  new 
dough  was  formerly  used ;  this  produced  lactic  as  well  as 
alcoholic  fermentation,  and  though  the  bread  was  light  and 
spong}'  in  texture,  it  had  an  unpleasant  sour  taste.  But 
since  the  chemistry  of  yeast  fermentation  has  been  under- 
stood, yeast  has  come  to  be  considered  the  best  ferment  for 
producing  alcoholic  fermentation  in  bread  rapidly,  and 
with  no  objectionable  result. 


46  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Yeast,  what  is  it?  —  Yeast  is  a  plant  or  germ  of  the 
fungus  tribe.  Under  the  microscope  it  is  found  to  consist 
of  numberless  minute  rounded  or  oval  bodies  which  are 
true  vegetable  cells.  Yeast  is  therefore  one  of  the  simplest 

and  smallest  of  vegetable 
organisms.      Each  little 
cell   consists   of  an   en- 
*.   Yeast  Plant  veloping    skin   or  mem- 

brane,  containing  a  liquid 
or  sap.  They  grow  or  expand  from  the  minutest  micro- 
scopic points,  and  seem  to  bud  off  from  each  other  and 
multiply  into  many  millions  to  the  cubic  inch.  These 
cells  are  easily  propagated  in  any  medium  where  they  find 
congenial  food,  particularly  in  the  juice  of  grapes.  If 
grape-juice  be  filtered  and  left  to  stand  in  a  warm  place 
two  or  three  hours,  it  becomes  first  cloudy,  then  thick,  and 
gives  off  bubbles  of  gas,  showing  there  has  been  some 
change  in  its  composition.  In  a  short  time  a  grayish- 
yellow  froth,  or  layer  of  yeast  cells,  collects  on  the  surface. 
"  Whether  the  germs  or  spores  of  the  yeast  plant  exist 
already  in  the  juices  of  the  living  grape,  or  whether  thev 
are  always  floating  in  the  air,  and  cling  to  the  exterior  of 
the  fruit,  and  only  become  mixed  with  the  juice  in  the  wine- 
press, is  not  known  ;  "  neither  is  it  known  just  how  they 
decompose  the  sugar  of  the  grape.  But  it  is  enough  for 
our  purpose  to  know  that  they  grow  in  the  juice  and  ex- 
pand there,  and  that  an  active  ferment  may  be  dissolved 
out  of  these  yeast  cells,  sufficient  to  cause  alcoholic 
fermentation. 

The  natural  development  of  yeast  through  the  agency  of 
plants  is  too  slow  and  inconvenient  a  process  to  rely  upon  ; 
therefore  we  manufacture  it  from  various  substances  rich 
in  starch  and  sugar.  Brewer's  yeast  is  made  from  malt, 
or  sprouting  grain,  usually  barley ;  home-made  yeast,  from 
flour  and  potatoes. 

Yeast  Bread  the  Result  of  Chemical  Changes.  —  Bread 
properly  made  with  yeast  undergoes  certain  chemical 
changes  which  render  it  lighter,  more  porous,  more  pleas* 


Yeast.  47 

ant  to  the  taste,  and  more  healthful,  because  more  easily 
digested,  and  more  convenient  for  general  use.  It  is  gen- 
erally recommended  by  scientific  and  medical  men  as  the 
best  form  of  bread. 

Wheat  contains  a  larger  percentage  of  starch  than  of  any- 
thing else.  We  learn,  in  the  chapter  on  Digestion,  that 
starch  as  such  is  not  absorbed  into  the  human  system.  It 
must  first  be  transformed  into  sugar.  All  starch  that  is 
not  changed  into  sugar  by  the  process  of  cooking  or  before 
our  food  is  eaten,  is  so  changed  b}-  the  ptyalin,  or  ferment  of 
the  saliva,  and  the  ferment  of  the  pancreatic  fluid.  Any 
process  which  produces  this  change  for  us  makes  our  food 
more  digestible.  "  Powdered  alum  will  dissolve  ia  water 
sooner  than  a  crystal  of  alum."  Any  fluid  will  penetrate 
more  easily  through  a  sponge  than  through  putty,  and  the 
salivary  and  gastric  fluids  are  no  exception  to  this  rule. 
Wheat  starch  in  its  natural  state  is  close  and  compact ;  and 
bread  made  simply  with  flour  and  water,  and  baked  at  once, 
will  be  close,  dry,  and  difficult  to  masticate  and  digest. 
Good  bread  should  be  sufficiently  soft  to  be  easily  crushed 
in  the  mouth,  and  of  such  a  light,  spongy  texture  that  all 
the  starch  cells  may  be  ruptured,  and  the  greatest  possible 
amount  of  surface  be  presented  to  the  action  of  the  diges- 
tive fluids.  To  obtain  these  qualities  in  bread,  we  try  to 
expand  the  dough  as  much  as  possible  without  destroying 
its  natural  sweetness.  Owing  to  the  peculiar  elasticity 
and  tenacity  of  the  wheat  gluten,  this  is  very  easily  accom- 
plished by  alcoholic  fermentation.  The  flour  is  moistened 
with  some  warm  liquid,  yeast  and  salt  are  added,  and  it  is 
then  exposed  for  some  hours  to  a  temperature  of  about 
70°.  The  yeast  changes  some  of  the  starch  of  the  flour 
into  sugar,  and  the  sugar  into  alcohol  and  carbonic  acid 
gas.  This  gas,  being  lighter  than  the  dough,  rises,  and,  in 
its  efforts  to  escape,  expands  the  elastic,  glutinous  dough 
into  ,a  mass  two  or  three  times  its  original  bulk.  The 
toughness  or  elasticity  of  the  gluten  prevents  the  gas  from 
escaping  ;  and  when  this  expansion  has  reached  the  desired 
limit, — that  is,  before  the  alcoholic  fermentation  has  changed 


48  The  Boston  Cook  Boofa 

to  the  acetic  and  soured  the  dough,  or  the  tough,  glutinous 
walls  of  the  air  cells  are  broken, — we  check  the  forma- 
tion of  gas,  and  kill  the  ferment  by  baking  the  dough  in  a 
hot  oven.  The  alcohol  escapes  into  the  oven  ;  some  of  the 
starch  is  changed  into  gum,  and  forms  the  crust ;  and  the 
rapid  decomposition,  produced  by  the  intense  heat,  causes 
the  crust  to  assume  a  brown  color. 

Unfermented  Bread.  —  This  is  made  without  yeast ;  but 
the  principle  is  the  same  as  in  fermented  bread,  namely,  the 
liberation  of  gas  within  the  dough.  The  gas  escapes  quickly, 
and  all  such  bread  must  be  baked  as  soon  as  possible  after 
mixing.  There  are  no  chemical  changes  in  the  starch  or 
sugar ;  the  elastic,  glutinous  dough  is  simply  expanded  by 
the  gas.  The  starch  cells  are  ruptured  b}r  the  intense  heat 
in  baking  ;  but  if  the  gas  bubbles  burst  before  the  heat  has 
fixed  the  gluten  wall,  the  bread  will  be  heavy.  This  gas 
is  produced  in  the  bread  dough  in  various  ways :  1st.  By 
the  gas  in  very  cold  water,  and  the  air  obtained  by  vig- 
orous beating ;  2d.  By  the  introduction  of  water  under 
pressure,  highly  charged  with  gas.  The  first  method  is 
only  suitable  for  mixtures  which  are  to  be  baked  quickly 
in  a  very  hot  oven,  and  eaten  immediately,  like  gems, 
puffs,  etc.  The  latter  method  produces  what  is  known  as 
aerated  bread,  making  a  light,  sweet,  spongy  loaf;  but  it 
is  not  practicable  for  home  use.  3d.  The  usual  method 
is  by  some  gas-generating  compound,  as  the  union  of  an 
acid  and  an  alkali ;  usually  soda,  with  either  sour  milk, 
cream  of  tartar,  or  muriatic  acid.  This  is  a  convenient 
form  adopted  by  many  people  who  think  it  hard  work  to 
make  yeast  bread.  When  the  chemicals  used  are  pure, 
and  in  such  a  proportion  that  they  neutralize  each  other, 
and  leave  only  Rochelle  salt  as  a  residue,  this  bread,  if 
used  only  occasionally,  is  harmless.  But  Rochelle  salt  is 
a  medicine,  not  a  nutritive  food  ;  and  "those  who  are  well 
do  not  need  the  disturbing  influence  of  a  medicine  in  .their 
daity  bread,"  and  those  who  are  ill  do  not  often  need  this 
particular  form  of  medicine.  Through  ignorance  or  care- 
lessness this  bread  is  often  made  so  that  there  is  an  excess 


The  Best  Kinds  of  Yeast.  49 

of  alkali  or  a  residue  of  alum  ;  and  then,  if  used  habitually, 
it  is  injurious,  and  to  some  extent  poisonous.  It  is  con- 
venient to  know  how  to  make  it  well  in  an  emergency,  and 
it  helps  make  variety.  It  is  best,  when  freshly  baked,  in 
the  form  of  small  biscuit  rather  than  in  loaves,  and  is  not 
as  indigestible,  when  eaten  hot,  as  hot  yeast  bread.  But 
for  a  bread  for  general  use,  for  bread  that  will  keep  well, 
for  bread  that  will  leave  a  sweet,  clean  taste  in  the*  mouth, 
for  bread  that  will  yield  the  most  in  bulk  from  a  given 
amount  of  flour,  for  bread  for  promoting  health,  there  is 
nothing  equal  to  perfect,  home-made  yeast  bread.  It  is 
not  so  difficult  a  task  to  make  perfect  bread  as  most  young 
housekeepers  imagine,  or  old  housekeepers  assert.  It  is 
not  impossible  for  a  young  girl  to  succeed  as  well  in  her 
first  attempt  in  this  art  as  the  mature  housekeeper  who 
counts  her  loaves  by  the  thousand,  provided  she  learns  the 
best  way  of  making  it,  and  uses  a  reasonable  amount  of 
common-sense. 

The  Best  Kinds  of  Yeast. 

Who  made  the  first  yeast  ?  and  how  does  a  jroung  house* 
keeper  start  her  own,  when  away  from  stores  or  friends, 
where  she  can  neither  buy  nor  borrow  V  are  questions  often 
asked.  Simply  make  a  thin  batter  with  flour  and  water, 
and  let  it  stand  in  a  warm  place  till  it  ferments,  and  is  full 
of  bubbles.  A  pint  of  this  ferment  is  equal  to  one  cup  of 
old  yeast  in  starting  the  new. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  yeast  in  general  use,  —  the 
dry,  the  compressed,  and  the  liquid,  —  each  of  which  has 
its  peculiar  merits. 

Dry  yeast  cakes  are  inexpensive,  always  ready  to  use, 
and  generally  liked  by  those  who  care  more  for  economy 
of  time  and  trouble  than  for  the  quality  of  their  bread. 

Compressed  yeast  cakes,  like  "  Fleischmann's  "  are  ex- 
cellent, when  perfectly  fresh;  the  best  form  of  yeast  where 
bread  is  made  in  large  quantities.  But  for  a  small  family, 
where  only  a  quarter  of  a  cake  is  used  perhaps  twice  a 

4 


5O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

week,  or  for. those  living  at  a  distance  from  the  stores, 
they  are  not  so  convenient  or  cheap  as  good  home-made 
yeast.  They  have  almost  entirely  taken  the  place  of  baker's 
yeast. 

As  to  which  is  best  of  the  many  varieties  of  home-made 
yeast,  who  shall  decide  when  housekeepers  disagree? 
Every  good  cook  thinks  her  way  the  best.  They  are  all  good 
that  make  good  bread  ;  the  only  special  advantage  of  one 
over  another  being  the  greater  ease  in  making  or  the 
length  of  time  it  will  keep  good.  People  who  are  inclined 
to  shirk  think  it  a  deal  of  trouble  to  make  yeast  of  any 
kind  ;  but  there  are  none  so  independent  as  those  who  make 
their  own  yeast. 

The  simplest  form  of  liquid  yeast  is  made  with  flour,  salt, 
and  boiling  hop  water.  To  this  many  add  potatoes  and  a 
little  sugar,  and  some  add  ginger.  Chemists  say  that  the 
potato  is  the  best  form  of  starch  for  the  growth  of  yeast. 
Potato  yeast  rises  more  rapidly,  and  keeps  longer  without 
souring,  than  flour  yeast;  bread  made  from  it  is  sweet, 
light,  and  does  not  dry  quickly.  As  to  the  comparative 
merits  of  grated  raw  potato  or  boiled  potato,  those  who 
have  used  them  both  ways  with  equally  good  results  think 
the  grated  potato  has  the  advantage  of  being  made  in  much 
less  time. 

The  really  essential  points  are  that  the  water  shall  be 
boiling,  so  that  all  the  cells  of  the  flour  or  potato  may  be 
ruptured.  The  salt  and  sugar  assist  in  the  fermentation, 
and  the  hops  and  ginger  serve  to  prevent  the  yeast  from 
souring  by  checking  the  fermentation  before  all  the  sugar 
is  converted  into  alcohol ;  they  also  give  it  an  agreeably 
pungent  taste,  if  not  used  in  too  large  quantities.  Old 
potatoes  are  better  than  new  for  3reast,  because  they  con- 
tain more  sugar.  Porcelain  or  granite  kettles  for  boiling 
the  hops  and  potatoes,  and  earthen  bowls  and  wooden 
spoons  for  mixing,  are  best,  as  iron  and  tin  cause  the  yeast 
to  turn  dark-colored. 

The  yeast  for  starting  must  be  fresh  and  lively,  and 
never  addecl  till  the  boiling  mixture  has  become  lukewarm, 


Making  Dough.  ${ 


or  the  plant  will  be  killed.  It  must  be  kept  warm,  and 
stirred  several  times  while  rising,  and  the  next  day  put 
away  in  well-scalded  glass  jars.  Keep  it  in  a  cool  place  ; 
freezing  or  intense  heat  will  kill  the  yeast  plant.  Reserve 
a  portion  for  the  next  rising  in  a  small  jar  by  itself,  as 
opening  the  jar  often  causes  the  yeast  to  lose  its  strength. 
Always  shake  or  stir  well  before  using.  Yeast  is  good 
when  it  is  foamy  or  full  of  beads,  has  a  brisk,  pungent 
odor,  and  a  good  deal  of  snap  or  vim ;  it  is  poor  when  it 
has  an  acid  odor*  and  looks  watery  or  has  a  thin  film 
over  the  top. 

Making  the  Dough. 

Flour  is  moistened,  or  made  into  dough,  with  water  or 
with  milk.  This  softens  the  gluten  and  starch,  dissolves 
the  sugar,  and  cements  all  the  particles  together.  Those 
who  prefer  water  claim  that  water  bread  is  cheaper,  has 
more  of  the  natural  sweet  taste  of  the  wheat,  and  will 
keep  longer  ;  while  those  in  favor  of  using  milk  are  equally 
sure  that  milk  bread  is  more  nutritious,  more  tender,  more 
agreeable  to  the  taste  and  the  eye,  more  easily  made,  and 
with  proper  care  will  keep  sweet  and  moist  longer. 

Proportion.  —  The  proportion  of  liquid  and  flour  varies 
both  with  the  flour  and  the  liquid.  Bread  made  of  St. 
Louis  flour,  or  mixed  with  water,  takes  more  flour  to  make 
the  same  amount,  than  when  made  of  Haxall  flour,  or 
mixed  with  milk.  The  general  rule  is  one  scant  measure  of 
liquid,  including  the  yeast,  to  three  full  measures  of  flour. 
Water  bread  will  need  about  one  cupful  more ;  and  milk 
bread,  or  whole-wheat  bread,  from  one  half  to  one  cupful 
less  of  flour.  Dough  which  is  to  be  kneaded,  or  rolled 
and  cut  into  special  shapes,  should  be  stiffer  than  that 
which  is  not  kneaded,  or  is  to  be  made  into  loaves  ;  but  in 
all  cases  it  should  be  mixed  just  as  soft  as  can  be  handled 
easily  without  sticking,  and  just  as  little  extra  flour  as 
possible  should  be  used.  If  the  dough  be  too  stiff,  make 
several  deep  incisions,  and  work  in  a  little  more  liquid. 
The  proportion  of  yeast  is  half  a  cupful  of  fresh  horn*- 


52  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

made  yeast  to  a  pint  of  liquid:  a  little  less  in  warm  weather  ; 
or  when  mixed  at  night,  when  the  dough  has  a  longer 
time  to  rise;  or  when  made  with  a  "sponge,"  or  with 
whole-wheat  flour,  as  the  extra  amount  of  gluten  in 
this  flour  causes  it  to  ferment  more  rapidly.  A  larger 
amount  of  }~east  can  be  used  when  it  is  necessary  to  make 
bread  in  a  limited  time  ;  but  great  care  must  be  taken  not 
to  allow  the  dough  to  rise  beyond  the  desired  doubling 
in  bulk.  With  compressed  yeast,  dissolve  one  fourth  of 
a  cake  in  half  a  cupful  of  lukewarm  water,  and  use  as 
home-made  yeast.  It  will  dissolve  in  one  tablespoonful 
of  water;  but  it  is  important  to  have  the  half-cupful,  that 
the  proportion  of  liquid  may  be  the  same. 

Manner  of  Mixing.  —  Many  people  prefer  to  measure  the 
flour,  and  add  enough  of  the  liquid  to  make  it  the  desired 
consistency.  The  better  way  is  to  measure  the  liquid,  and 
add  floui1)  using  more  or  less  according  to  the  quality  of 
the  flour,  as  the  measure  of  the  liquid  determines  the  size 
of  the  loaf.  All  the  flour  may  be  added  at  first,  and  the 
dough  raised  in  a  mass  ;  or  a  drop  batter  may  be  made  with 
about  half  the  flour,  and  when  this  has  well  risen,  the  re- 
mainder of  the  flour  may  be  added,  and  the  whole  allowed 
to  rise  again.  The  latter  method  is  preferable  when  it  is 
inconvenient  to  knead  at  the  first  mixing,  as  is  often  the 
case  in  the  evening,  or  when  there  is  any  doubt  about  the 
quality  of  the  yeast,  as,  if  the  yeast  will  not  raise  three 
cups  of  flour,  it  certainly  will  not  raise  six.  This  method 
is  advisable,  also,  when  it  is  necessary  to  hasten  the  pro- 
cess of  bread-making.  Dough  made  by  ' '  setting  a 
sponge,"  as  this  way  is  called,  requires  less  yeast,  the  fer- 
mentation being  more  rapid  in  a  batter  than  in  a  stiff 
dough  ;  and  this  fermented  batter  acts  like  a  double  portion 
of  3'east  on  the  fresh  flour,  raising  it  very  quickly.  It  is 
the  best  way  of  making  bread  with  milk  in  the  summer,  as 
it  may  be  mixed  early  in  the  morning  and  baked  by  noon ; 
an.d  as  it  may  be  easily  watched,  it  need  not  become  sour. 
The  question  of  mixing  at  night  or  in  the  morning  is 
one  which  every  housekeeper  can  best  answer  for  herself. 


53 


Many  old  receipts  ivtul,  •'  Make  a  hole  in  the  flour, 
add  the  j'east,  and  then  pour  in  the  liquid."  If  the 
yeast  be  added  to  the  milk  or  water,  and  well  mixed  with 
it,  and  the  flour  then  stirred  thoroughly  into  this  liquid 
mixture,  the  3*east  will  be  more  eventy  distributed  through 
the  dough,  and  less  kneading  will  be  .required  than  when 
made  by  the  old  method. 

The  other  ingredients  added  to  the  dough  are  salt  and 
sugar,  in  the  proportion  of  one  even  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
one  even  tablespoonful  of  sugar  to  three  pints  of  flour,  using  a 
little  less  salt  if  butter  is  added,  and  a  little  more  with 
compressed  yeast,  as  that  is  not  as  salt  as  home-made 
yeast,  and  doubling  the  amount  of  sugar  when  using  whole- 
wheat flour. 

Sugar  in  Bread.  —  Many  object  to  the  use  of  sugar 
in  bread.  Flour  in  its  natural  state  contains  sugar ;  this 
sugar  is  changed  in  fermentation.  Just  enough  sugar  to 
restore  the  natural  sweetness,  but  not  enough  to  give  a 
really  sweet  taste,  is  necessar3r  in  fermented  bread. 

Potatoes.  —  Potatoes  are  sometimes  added  to  bread 
dough.  Where  the  flour  is  of  an  inferior  quality,  the 
bread  is  very  much  improved  by  their  use  ;  but  with  good 
flour  they  are  unnecessary,  and  the  use  of  them  increases 
the  labor  of  making  bread. 

Shortening.  — Whether  bread  shall  be  "  shortened  or  not 
shortened,"  is  another  question  on  which  there  is  great 
diversity  of  opinion.  Those  who  disapprove  of  fat  of  any 
kind  in  bread  claim  that  we  eat  fat  enough  in  other  forms 
of  food,  and  also  that  the  same  crisp  tenderness  of  tex- 
ture may  be  produced  b}^  skilful  kneading.  Bread  made 
with  new  or  unskimmed  milk,  and  kneaded  well,  requires 
no  other  shortening ;  but  water  bread,  when  shortened,  is 
made  more  tender,  and  therefore  is  more  easily  pene- 
trated by  the  digestive  fluids.  The  latest  decision  of  the 
best  physicians  is  that  fat  is  absolute!}1  necessary  as  an 
element  of  food,  and  it  is  often  given  as  a  remedj7  for 
some  diseases.  The  proportion  which  one  person  would 
receive  from  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  or  drippings,  or 


54  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

lard,  in  two  loaves  of  bread  would  not  harm  the  most  deli« 
cate  stomach.  Butter  tastes  best ;  drippings  are  cheap- 
est. Lard  has  for  its  chief  merit  that  of  making  whiter 
bread  than  either  of  the  others.  The  shortening  ma}-  be 
rubbed  into  the  flour,  or,  better  still,  melted  in  the  warm 
liquid.  Too  much  shortening  clogs  the  glutinous  cell- 
walls,  and  therefore  checks  the  rising.  Rolls,  rusks,  and 
buns,  which  are  usually  shortened  more  than  loaf  bread, 
should  have  the  butter  added  at  the  last  kneading. 

The  bread  should  be  mixed  in  a  deep  stone-china  or 
granite  bowl ;  wooden  bowls  are  difficult  to  keep  sweet  and 
clean.  Brown  earthenware  is  awkward  in  shape  and 
clumsy  to  handle,  while  tinware,  being  a  better  conductor 
than  china,  lets  the  heat  within  the  mass  escape,  and  the 
tin  rubs  off  from  the  constant  friction.  Use  a  wooden 
spoon,  or  a  wooden-handled  iron  spoon,  or  a  broad-bladed 
knife. 

Kneading  the  Dough.  —  Kneading  is  the  process  of  press- 
ing or  working  the  dough  in  such  a  manner  that  the  flour 
and  water  may  be  thoroughly  mixed,  and  the  yeast  be  so 
eventy  distributed  that  the  fermentation  may  be  equal 
through  the  whole  mass.  It  may  be  done  by  cutting  or 
chopping,  either  with  the  hand  or  machinery  ;  but  there  is 
nothing  that  gives  the  fine,  even  grain  to  bread  so  well  as 
hand-kneading ;  and  no  surer  test  of  the  proper  consist- 
ency of  dough  than  that  given  by  the  sense  of  touch. 
There  are  some  kinds  of  milk  bread  and  rolls  which  are 
very  good  without  it ;  but  water  bread  should  always  be 
kneaded.  It  is  often  done  in  the  mixing-bowl,  by  draw- 
ing the  dough  over  from  the  side  and  pressing  it  down 
in  the  centre,  turning  the  bowl  with  the  other  hand ;  but 
it  is  more  effectually  accomplished  on  a  bread-board.  In 
Spain  the  bakers  knead  the  bread  with  such  force  that 
the  palms  of  the  hands  and  the  second  joints  of  the  fingers 
are  covered  with  corns  ;  but  strength  and  force  are  not  so 
essential  to  good  kneading  as  a  peculiar  and  dexterous 
handling  of  the  dough.  The  most  approved  process  is  the 
following :  — 


Kneading.  5  5 


Sprinkle  the  board  with  flour,  and  leave  a  little  in  the 
corner  to  lay  your  hands  upon.  Scrape  the  dough  from 
the  bowl,  and  toss  it  over  with  the  knife  that  it  may 
be  well  floured.  Flour  the  hands ;  then,  with  the  finger- 
tips, draw  the  dough  farthest  from  you  up  and  over  to- 
ward the  centre,  letting  the  ball  of  the  hand  meet  the 
dough,  and  then  press  down  firmly,  giving  the  dough  some- 
what of  a  rolling  motion,  that  it  may  not  stick  to  the 
board.  Repeat  this  motion  until  the  dough  is  in  a  long 
narrow  shape,  then  turn  it  at  right  angles,  and  draw  up, 
fold,  and  press  down  again ;  and  continue  this  process 
until  the  dough  is  smooth,  elastic,  fine,  and  even-grained. 
Dust  the  board  and  the  palms  of  the  hands  with  flour  often, 
but  onl}'  slightly.  Should  the  dough  stick,  lift  it  quickly, 
and  alwa}~s  scrape  off  what  has  adhered  to  the  board  before 
dusting  again,  that  the  board  may  be  kept  smooth.  But 
do  not  let  it  stick ;  keep  it  in  constant  motion.  Do  not 
knead  hard  enough  to  break  into  the  dough,  nor  let  the 
finger-tips  pierce  the  smooth  crust  that  soon  forms  under 
proper  kneading.  Use  the  fingers  merely  in  drawing  the 
dough  over,  and  keep  them  up  and  out  of  it  when  press- 
ing with  the  ball  of  the  hand.  Use  both  hands  in  the 
same  manner,  or  draw  up  and  press  with  the  right,  and 
turn  the  ball  of  dough  with  the  left,  that  all  parts  may 
receive  an  equal  pressure.  When  enough  of  this  smooth, 
soft  texture  has  been  formed  all  through  the  dough,  it  can 
be  worked  for  some  time  without  even  a  dusting  of  flour. 
After  a  little  experience,  if  care  be  taken  in  the  beginning, 
and  only  a  little  flour  added  at  each  dusting,  when  the 
dough  is  sufficiently  kneaded,  the  hands,  the  apron,  and 
the  board  will  be  clean,  and  the  dough  of  an  even,  elastic 
consistency,  springing  up  instantly  as  you  toss  or  pound 
or  punch  into  it.  The  habit  of  mixing  with  the  hands, 
and  rubbing  off  little  wads  of  dough  from  the  fingers  into 
the  whole  mass,  should  be  avoided,  especially  toward  the 
last  of  the  process.  There  is  no  mechanical  operation  in 
cooking  more  fascinating  than  the  deft,  quick  touches  a 
natural  kneader  gives  to  a  mass  of  dough.  Young  ladies 


56  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

with  pretty  bands  can  display  them  there  quite  as  well  as 
with  embroidery,  etc.  ;  but  the  rings  and  bracelets  should 
be  left  in  the  jewel-case.  The  stitches  in  tight  dress 
sleeves  are  not  ' '  warranted  not  to  break  "  during  this  pro- 
cess. Perfect  freedom  for  the  muscles  of  the  arms  and 
chest  is  absolutely  essential  to  the  making  and  kneading 
of  bread. 

Temperature  and  Time  for  the  Raising  of  Bread.  —  In 
winter  the  water  or  milk  used  in  mixing  should  be  luke- 
warm ;  and  if  the  flour  be  kept  in  a  very  cold  place,  warm 
it  before  using.  In  summer  the  water  need  not  be 
warmed,  neither  should  it  be  ice-water;  the  milk  should 
be  scalded  (not  boiled),  and  cooled.  After  the  bread  is 
kneaded  sufficiently  it  must  be  made  into  a  smooth  round 
ball,  with  no  dry  flour  left  on  the  surface,  and  put  back  in 
the  mixing-bowl  to  rise.  If  you  have  learned  the  knack 
of  scraping  a  bowl  thoroughly,  it  need  not  be  washed ; 
otherwise  it  is  well  to  wash  and  grease  the  bowl,  that  the 
dough  may  come  out  more  easily  after  it  has  risen.  Notice 
how  it  fills  the  bowl,  and  let  it  rise  until  it  has  a  little 
more  than  doubled  in  size.  Cover  it,  not  with  a  cloth 
alone,  as  that  serves  merely  to  keep  out  the  dust,  but  with 
several  thicknesses  of  cloth,  and  a  tightly  fitting  tin  cover. 
It  is  important  that  the  air  be  excluded,  as  it  causes  a 
hard  crust  to  form,  which  will  be  difficult  to  mix  thoroughly 
in  the  dough  at  the  next  kneading,  and  will  also  leave  dark 
spots  or  streaks  in  the  bread. 

The  dough  should  rise  in  a  temperature  of  about  75°. 
Avoid  a  draught  of  cold  air,  or  sudden  alternations  of  ex- 
treme heat  and  cold.  If  it  be  placed  on  a  mantel  or  near 
a  stove,  it  must  be  turned  frequently.  When  necessary  to 
hasten  the  rising,  place  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  warm  (not 
hot)  water,  and  keep  the  water  at  the  same  temperature 
until  it  begins  to  rise.  After  fermentation  has  been  well 
established  the  temperature  can  be  lowered  without  harm, 
provided  it  does  not  fall  below  45°.  In  winter,  bread 
should  be  mixed  early  in  the  evening ;  and  if  the  kitchen 
become  very  cold  before  morning,  keep  the  dough  in  a 


Bread  Raisin* /.  57 


warmer  room  ;  it  will  be  risen  by  six  or  seven  in  the  morn- 
ing. In  summer,  mix  it  later  at  night,  leave  it  in  a  cool 
place,  and  the  next  morning  attend  to  it  earl}' ;  if  possible, 
by  five  o'clock.  In  very  hot  weather  mix  early  in  the 
morning,  and  bake  by  noon.  It  should  never  be  allowed 
to  rise  to  the  point  of  "  caving  in,"  or  settling,  or  running 
over  the  bowl.  Even  if  it  does  not  become  sour,  it  loses 
the  natural  sweet  flavor  of  the  wheat,  and  is  tasteless  and 
insipid.  It  should  rise  in  a  light,  puffy,  well-rounded 
mass  ;  and  if  it  half  filled  the  bowl  at  first,  it  will  be  ready, 
when  risen  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  bowl,  "  to  cut  down," 
as  most  cooks  express  it.  This  is  done  by  cutting  it  away 
from  the  sides  of  the  bowl,  and  working  it  over  into  the 
centre  with  the  knife.  This  releases  some  of  the  gas, 
checks  the  fermentation,  and  reduces  the  bulk  somewhat. 
It  will  rise  again  very  quickly,  and  the  cutting-down  pro- 
cess can  be  repeated  several  times,  and  the  bread  will  be 
the  better  for  it,  provided  the  rising  does  not  go  too  far  at 
any  time.  It  takes  but  a  moment,  and  should  always  be 
done  when  the  dough  is  risen  sufficiently,  if  3*011  are  not 
ready  to  shape  it  at  once  into  loaves.  If  you  do  not  wish 
to  bake  the  bread  for  several  hours,  it  can  be  kneaded 
again  and  put  in  the  ice-chest  or  cellar.  When  the  dough 
rises  too  long,  and  has  soured,  it  will  have  a  strong,  tin- 
gling acid  odor  as  you  cut  into  it,  and  it  will  pull  away 
from  the  bowl  in  long  threads,  having  a  watery  appear- 
ance, quite  unlike  the  proper  spongy  consistency  and  pun- 
gent alcoholic  odor  when  it  is  just  right.  The  practice  of 
using  soda  to  sweeten  it,  when  in  this  state,  cannot  be  too 
severely  condemned.  Chemists  say  that  light  sour  bread 
is  not  unhealthful,  although  unpalatable  to  most  Americans. 
Bread  in  that  condition  is  eaten  largel}7  by  the  Germans. 
Sour  bread  sweetened  by  soda  is  unhealthful,  as  it  is  very 
rarely  that  the  alkali  is  wholly  neutralized  by  the  acetic 
acid.  Those  who  boast  of  never  having  sour  bread  be- 
cause the}'  always  keep  a  bottle  of  soda  dissolved  and 
ready  for  instant  use,  should,  instead,  blush  at  the  fact  of 
such  careless  housewifely.  With  proper  care,  bread,  even 


58  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

when  made  with  milk,  need  never  sour.  But  should  the 
accident  ever  occur,  it  is  better  to  eat  the  bread,  or  dry  it 
for  crumbs,  or  throw  it  away  even,  than  to  use  the  soda. 
This  practice  is  so  abominable  that  here  it  will  receive 
neither  aid  nor  encouragement. 

Shaping  into  Loaves  or  Biscuit.  —  At  least  an  hour  be- 
fore the  time  for  baking,  scrape  the  dough  from  the  bowl, 
and  turn  it  out  upon  the  board,  which  should  be  dusted 
with  flour ;  knead  it  slightly,  and  divide  into  the  proper 
proportion  for  loaves. 

The  measures  given  in  the  following  receipts  fill  two 
brickloaf  pans,  which  are  eight  inches  long  by  four  inches 
broad  and  five  inches  deep,  with  nearly  straight  sides. 
This  shape  gives  small  uniform  slices.  Small  round  pans 
were  formerly  considered  best  for  baking  both  bread  and 
cake  ;  and  there  is  some  truth  in  the  reason  given ,  namety, 
that  the  cells  which  are  formed  by  the  gas  are  circular  in 
form,  and  are  much  more  uniform  in  a  round  than  in  an 
oblong  loaf,  in  which  the  corner  cells  are  easily  flat- 
tened or  compressed,  forming  heavy  streaks  around  the 
edges.  But  many  people  dislike  the  shape  of  the  slices  in 
a  round  loaf,  and  oblong  pans  have  been  more  generally 
adopted.  .  They  should  be  greased  with  lard  or  drippings. 
It  is  better  to  divide  the  dough  into  four  equal  parts  and 
put  two  in  each  pan,  for  several  reasons :  a  small  round 
loaf  is  more  easily  shaped,  and  can  be  broken,  if  wanted, 
while  fresh,  better  than  a  long  loaf;  two  small  loaves 
rise  and  fill  the  pan  more  evenly  than  one  long  loaf ;  and 
unless  great  care  be  taken  in  shaping  to  have  the  one 
loaf  of  uniform  thickness,  it  will  rise  more  in  the  middle 
and  give  uneven  slices.  Many  make  a  deep  cut  through 
the  middle  to  prevent  this ;  but  that  spoils  the  smooth 
round  effect  which  adds  so  much  to  the  looks  of  the 
crust. 

Use  the  merest  dusting  of  flour  in  shaping,  and  knead 
just  enough  to  work  out  the  large  bubbles  of  gas  by  fold- 
ing the  mass  over  into  the  middle,  then  letting  it  spring 
open.  Pat,  coax,  and  work  it  with  the  hand  and  fingers 


Loaves  59 


until  there  are  no  wrinkles,  and  the  loaves  are  smooth. 
Greasing  the  hands  slightly  with  butter  helps.  All  the 
flour  added  at  this  kneading  rises  but  once,  and  too  much 
will  make  the  loaf  burst  out  unevenly  at  the  sides.  Some 
careless  kneaders  merely  fold  it  over,  and  if  it  look 
smooth  on  the  top  they  think  that  enough  ;  but  their  loaf 
will  sometimes  have  a  seam  or  crack  through  it,  which  will 
cause  the  slices  to  fall  apart  easily. 

The  loaves  should  come  nearly  half-way  up  the  pan  ;  and 
the  same  rule  follows  as  for  the  first  rising,  namely,  let  it 
come  to  the  top,  or  till  the  bulk  is  doubled.  Cover  with 
cloth  and  tin  cover,  or  a  large  tin  pan.  The  time  for  rising 
varies  with  the  lightness  of  the  dough  and  the  temperature 
of  the  room.  It  is  impossible  to  give  a  definite  rule  ;  but 
should  it  rise  too  far #nd  stick  to  the  cloth,  or  look  "tum- 
bled in,"  cut  it  down,  knead,  and  let  it  rise  again.  Never 
bake  it  in  the  above  state,  as  it  will  be  coarse-grained,  if 
not  hollow.  It  is  better  to  bake  it  a  little  too  soon  than 
to  let  it  rise  too  long. 

Rolls  and  small  biscuit  should  rise  in  the  pans  longer 
and  be  baked  in  a  hotter  oven  than  the  loaf,  because  the 
loaf  rises  in  the  oven  until  the  heat  has  penetrated  to  the 
centre  ;  while  in  the  rolls  the  air  cells  are  very  quickly  fixed 
by  the  intense  heat  needed  to  perfect  the  crust,  and  fer- 
mentation is  almost  immediately  checked.  This  is  con- 
trary to  the  usual  practice ;  but  it  is  the  correct  way. 
Man}*  people  prepare  biscuit  for  breakfast  by  letting  them 
rise  ten  or  fifteen  minutes  in  a  very  hot  place  while  the 
oven  is  heating.  They  are  often  only  half  baked,  and  then 
eaten  smoking  hot ;  and  those  who  have  never  had  an}T- 
thing  else  think  them  just  right.  The  evil  effects  of  this 
practice  have  been  the  occasion  for  much  of  the  outcry 
against  hot,  or  even  fresh,  biscuit.  Such  are  entirely  dif- 
ferent from  the  dry,  light,  delicious  biscuit  which  have  had 
a  natural,  not  a  forced,  rising,  are  of  the  proper  texture, 
have  been  baked  quickly,  and  allowed  to  stand  at  least 
half  an  hour  before  being  eaten.  The  moral  of  the  above 
is,  never  try  to  have  raised  biscuit  for  breakfast  without 


60  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

rising   at  least  three  hours  before  breakfast- time,  unless 
you  wish  your  family  to  become  slaves  to  indigestion. 

The  Temperature  for  Baking.  —  The  object  of  baking 
bread  is  to  kill  the  ferment,  rupture  the  starch  grains, 
fix  the  air  cells,  and  form  a  nicely  flavored  crust.  Bread 
could  be  baked  by  steam,  as  the  air  cells  become  fixed 
at  212°,  and  the  temperature  of  the  inside  of  the  loaf, 
owing  to  the  moisture,  never  rises  above  that  point ;  but, 
to  give  the  delicious  flavor  of  the  browned  crust,  a  much 
higher  temperature  is  needed.  The  oven  should  be  hot 
enough  to  brown  a  teaspoonful  of  flour  in  one  minute 
for  rolls,  and  in  jive  minutes  for  loaves.  This  is  a  good 
rule  for  those  who  do  not  use  a  thermometer,  or  cannot 
judge  of  the  heat  by  their  hands.  The  heat  should  be 
greater  at  the  bottom  than  at  the  top  of  the  oveiij  and  of 
sufficient  strength  to  last  through  the  time  of  baking  (which 
is  about  an  hour)  without  replenishing  the  fire.  Divide 
the  time  into  thirds ;  the  first  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes 
the  heat  should  increase,  remain  steady  during  the  next, 
and  decrease  toward  the  last.  The  dough  should  rise,  and, 
after  fifteen  minutes,  begin  to  brown  slightty.  If  the  oven 
be  too  hot.  and  the  loaf  brown  too  fastj  a  hard  crust  will 
be  formed  before  the  heat  reaches  the  centre,  and,  pressing 
down  on  the  air  cells,  make  a  heavy  streak  ;  or,  if  removed 
from  the  oven  too  soon,  it  will  be  raw  and  doughy  inside. 
If  the  heat  be  not  sufficient  to  form  the  crust  in  fifteen 
minutes,  the  dough  will  go  on  rising  until  it  becomes  sour 
and  pasty,  and  the  air  cells  will  run  together,  making  a 
hole  in  the  middle.  The  baking  of  bread  is  something  that 
will  not  take  care  of  itself.  The  old  notion  that  you  must 
not  look  at  anything  in  the  oven  is  erroneous ;  and  until 
you  have  learned  by  experience  just  how  to  regulate  the 
fire  and  oveti,  and  the  many  tests  by  which  every  good 
cook  determines  when  bread  is  done,  look  at  it  often, 
and  bake  according  to  the  clock  from  fifty  to  sixty  min- 
utes. Better  bake  ten  minutes  too  long,  putting  a  paper 
over  the  top  to  prevent  a  burned  crust,  than  not  long 
enough.  Bake  it  brown,  not  black,  nor  pale  whity-brown, 


Care  of  Bread.  6 1 


but  brown  all  over.  Rolls  are  often  brushed  with  milk  just 
before  and  after  baking,  to  give  them  a  richer  brown  color. 
Rubbing  over  with  soft  butter  while  still  hot  makes  a  crisp, 
delicioui  crust.  When  well  baked,  if  tapped  with  the  lin- 
gers, a  hollow,  empty  sound  will  be  emitted ;  the  crust 
feels  firm,  and,  if  broken  apart,  the  inside  rebounds  in- 
stantly on  any  slight  pressure. 

The  Care  of  Bread  after  Baling.  —  Remove  the  loaves 
immediately  from  the  pans,  and  place  them  where  the  air 
can  circulate  freely  round  them  and  thus  carry  off  the  gas 
which  has  been  formed,  but  is  no  longer  needed.  A  bread 
or  cake  cooler,  made  of  fine  wire,  set  in  a  narrow  frame 
thirty  inches  long  by  twelve  or  fifteen  broad,  is  a  very  use- 
ful article,  as  it  will  hold  several  loaves.  An  old  wire 
window-screen,  too  small  for  modern  windows,  with  cleats 
on  the  ends,  to  keep  it  two  or  three  inches  from  the  table, 
answers  the  purpose  admirably.  Many  use  a  wire  sieve ; 
but  that  is  small,  and  leaves  the  marks  of  the  larger  cross 
wires  on  the  loaf.  Never  leave  the  bread  in  the  pan,  or  on 
a  pine  table,  to  sweat  and  absorb  the  odor  of  the  wood. 

If  3'ou  like  crusts  that  are  crisp,  do  not  cover  the  loaves  ; 
but  to  give  the  soft,  tender,  wafer-like  consistency  which 
many  prefer,  wrap  them,  while  still  hot,  in  several  thick- 
nesses of  bread  cloth.  When  cold,  put  them  into  a  stone 
jar  or  tin  box  ;  remove  the  cloth,  as  that  absorbs  the  mois^ 
ture,  and  gives  the  bread  an  unpleasant  taste  and  odor. 
Keep  the  jar  well  covered  and  carefully  cleansed  from 
crumbs  and  stale  pieces.  Scald  and  dry  it  thoroughly 
every  two  or  three  days.  A  yard  and  a  half  square  of 
coarse  table  linen  makes  the  best  bread  cloth.  Keep  a 
good  supply ;  keep  them  sweet  and  clean,  and  use  them 
for  no  other  purpose. 

Fine  white  bread  should  be  partaken  of  in  moderation. 
Although  the  "staff  of  life,"  it  is  not  necessaty  to  eat 
bread  with  every  kind  of  diet.  It  is  most  useful  when 
taken  with  articles  containing  a  large  proportion  of  noiur 
ishment  in  a  small  bulk,  as  it  then  gives  the  stomach  the 
proper  degree  of  expansion. 


62  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Raw  Potato  Yeast. 

^  cup  flour.  I     3  raw  potatoes. 

%  cup  sugar.  1  to  2  quarts  boiling  water. 

1  tablespoonful  salt.  |      1  cup  yeast. 

First,  see  that  you  have  at  least  three  quarts  of  water 
boiling  rapidly.  Pare  the  potatoes,  and  keep  them  cov- 
ered with  cold  water.  Mix  the  flour,  sugar,  and  salt  in  a 
large  bowl,  and  grate  the  potatoes  as  quickly  as  possible, 
not  stopping  to  grate  every  scrap  ;  mix  them  at  once  with 
the  flour,  using  a  wooden  or  silver  spoon,  that  the  mixture 
may  not  be  dark-colored.  Pour  the  boiling  water  directly 
from  the  teakettle  over  the  grater,  and  rinse  off  the  potato 
into  the  bowl,  using  perhaps  a  pint  of  water  at  first.  Mix 
the  water  thoroughly  with  the  potato  and  flour ;  then  add, 
slowly,  enough  more  boiling  water  to  make  it  the  consist- 
ency of  thin  starch.  The  amount  of  water  will  depend 
upon  the  quality  of  the  flour  and  potatoes.  If  it  does  not 
thicken,  pour  the  mixture  into  a  double  boiler  or  granite 
pan,  and  let  it  come  to  the  boiling-point,  stirring  well  to 
keep  it  from  sticking.  Strain  through  a  squash  strainer  and 
let  it  cool.  When  lukewarm  (clear  through  the  mixture, 
not  merely  on  the  top) ,  add  the  yeast.  Cover  slightly,  and 
keep  in  a  warm  (not  hot)  place,  until  light  and  covered 
with  white  foam.  After  it  begins  to  rise,  beat  it  well  sev- 
eral times,  as  this  makes  it  stronger.  At  night,  or  when 
well  risen,  put  it  into  wide-mouthed  earthen  or  glass  jars. 
The  next  morning  cover  tightly,  and  keep  it  in  a  cool 
place.  Reserve  one  cupful  or  more  in  a  small  glass  jar, 
and  do  not  open  it  until  ready  for  the  next  yeast-making. 
Always  shake  yeast  well  before  using ;  take  your  cup  to 
the  jar  instead  of  taking  the  jar  to  the  hot  kitchen  ;  when 
empty,  scald  the  jar  and  the  cover  thoroughly.  This  is 
the  quickest  and  easiest  way  of  making  yeast,  fifteen  min- 
utes being  ample  time  for  the  first  part  of  the  process.  It 
is  whiter  and  looks  more  inviting  than  that  made  with  hops. 
It  keeps  well  two  weeks,  and  makes  delicious  bread. 

This  receipt  can  be  varied  by  using  boiling  hop-water. 


Potato   Yeast. 


Steep  one  fourth  cup  of  loose  hops  five  minutes  in  three  pints 
of  water,  in  a  granite  or  porcelain  kettle,  and  strain  it  into 
the  potato  and  flour.  Or  the  flour  may  be  omitted,  using 
more  potato  or  less  water.  Many  think  it  an  improvement 
to  mix  one  even  teaspoonful  of  sifted  ginger  with  the  flour, 
sugar,  and  salt.  The  hops  and  ginger  will  make  the  yeast 
dark-colored,  but  it  will  not  be  perceptible  in  the  bread. 

Boiled  Potato  Yeast.  (Mrs.  Towne's  Matilda.) 
Three  large*,  old  potatoes,  pared,  soaked,  and  boiled  until 
broken  in  small  pieces  ;  half  a  cup  of  loose  hops  boiled  in 
one  quart  of  water.  Drain  and  mash  the  potatoes  ;  add  the 
hop  water  and  enough  more  hot  water  to  make  two  quarts. 
Strain,  rubbing  all  the  potato  through,  and  put  it  on  to 
boil.  When  boiling,  add  three  fourths  of  a  cup  of  flour, 
which  has  been  wet  to  a  smooth  paste  in  cold  water,  and 
three  quarters  of  a  cup  of  sugar.  Boil  five  minutes,  stirring 
well ;  let  it  cool ;  add  three  fourths  of  a  cup  of  yeast ;  and , 
when  well  risen,  add  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  salt.  Keep  in  a 
covered  stone  jar  in  a  cool  cellar.  Bread  made  with  this 
yeast  will  not  sour  even  in  the  hottest  weather. 

Hop  Yeast. 

Steep  half  a  cup  of  loose  hops  in  one  quart  of  boiling 
water,  in  a  granite  kettle,  five  minutes.  Mix  one  cup  of 
flour,  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
salt.  Strain  the  hop  liquor,  and  pour  it  boiling  into  the  flour 
mixture.  Boil  one  minute,  or  till  thick.  When  cooled, 
add  one  cup  of  yeast. 

Water  Bread. 


2  quarts  sifted  (new-process)  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  sugar. 

1  tablespoonful  butter,   or  drip- 


% cup  liquid  yeast,  or, 
%  cake  compressed    yeast,    dis- 
solved in  %  cup  water. 
1  pint  lukewarm  water. 


pings,  or  lard. 

Sift  the  flour,  and  fill  the  measure  lightly,  not  heaping, 
nor  shaken  down.     Turn  it  into  a  large  bowl  holding  about 


66  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

flour,  and  beat  well.  Let  it  rise  over  night,  or,  if  mixed  in 
the  morning,  about  three  hours.  Then  add  from  two  to 
three  cups  of  flour,  or  enough  to  knead  it,  and  knead  half 
an  hour.  Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl,  and  again  after  being 
shaped  into  loaves  or  rolls,  and  bake  as  usual. 

Whole-wheat  or  rye  bread  or  gems  can  be  made  from  this 
sponge  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  rule. 

Whole- Wheat  or  Graham  Bread. 


6  or  6  cups  fine  granulated  wheat 
flour,  or 

2  cups  white  flour,  and 

3  or  3j^  cups  sifted  Graham  flour. 


1  pint  milk,  scalded  and  cooled. 

2  tablespoonf uls  sugar. 
1  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 

%  cup  yeast. 

In  the  morning  mix,  in  the  order  given,  into  a  dough,  a 
little  softer  than  for  white  bread  ;  let  it  rise  till  light,  stir 
it  down,  pour  it  into  well-greased  pans,  or,  if  stiff  enough, 
shape  it  into  loaves ;  let  it  rise  again,  and  bake  a  little 
longer  and  in  a  less  hot  oven  than  white  bread.  Graham 
or  whole-wheat  flour  rises  more  rapidly  than  white  flour, 
as  it  contains  more  gluten.  It  is  liable  to  become  sour 
if  mixed  over  night,  and  then  the  cooks  resort  to  the  soda. 
For  the  true  remedy  use  less  yeast,  and  use  sugar  instead 
of  molasses,  or  mix  in  the  morning.  Always  sift  the  flour, 
notwithstanding  all  cook-books  say  to  the  contrary.  Use 
a  coarse  sieve  or  squash  strainer.  Sift  once,  and,  if  you 
observe  the  character  of  the  refuse,  you  will  be  glad 
to  do  so  always.  Bake  part  of  this  as  biscuit  or  rolls. 
When  made  with  ordinary  Graham  flour,  the  bread  is 
much  lighter  if  at  least  one  third  white  flour  be  used. 

Squash  Bread. 


1  tablespoonful  butter. 

)^  cup  yeast. 

Flour  enough  to  knead  it. 


1  cup  squash,  stewed  and  sifted. 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 
\%  cups  scalded  milk. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 

Mix  the  sugar  and  salt  with  the  squash,  add  the  butter 
melted  in  the  hot  milk,  and  when  cool  add  the  yeast  and 


Bread.  67 

flour.    Knead  fifteen  minutes.    Let  it  rise  till  light.    Knead 
and  shape  into  loaves  or  biscuit.     When  well  risen,  bake 


Eye  Bread. 

Make  by  rule  given  for  Milk  Bread,  No.  3,  adding  rye 
tour  or  rye  meal  to  the  white-flour  sponge. 


Eaised  Brown  Bread.    (Mrs.  H.  B. 


1  pint  yellow  corn  meal. 
%  cup  yeast. 
%  cup  molasses. 


% teaspoonf ul salt 
1  saltspoonful  soda, 
1  pint  rye  meal. 


Pat  the  corn  meal  in  the  mixing-bowl,  and  scald  it  with 
boiling  water,  just  enough  to  wet  it ;  let  it  stand  ten  min- 
utes, then  add  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  soft  batter. 
When  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast,  molasses,  soda,  salt,  and 
r}~e  meal.  Beat  it  well,  and  let  it  rise  over  night,  or  until  it 
cracks  open.  Stir  it  down ;  put  it  in  a  buttered  and  floured 
tin  to  rise  again ;  sprinkle  flour  over  the  top.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  two  hours.  Brown  bread  made  by  this  rule 
was  first  tested  by  the  writer  thirty  years  ago,  when  it  was 
a  wonder  and  delight  to  watch  it  as  it  was  put  on  a  wooden 
shovel  and  placed  .n  the  great  brick  oven.  It  has  been 
made  in  the  same  house  regularly  every  week  since  then, 
and  proves  just  as  good  now  as  it  was  in  the  olden  time. 

Thirded  Bread. 


l  cnp  white  flour  (St.  Louis). 

I  cup  rye  flour,  or  sifted  rye  meal. 

1  cup  yellow  corn  meal. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

3  tablespoonf  uls  sugar. 

%  cup  yeast. 


Mix  with  milk  (scalded  and  cooled)  till  thick  enough  to 
be  shaped.  Let  It  rise  until  it  cracks  open.  Put  into  a 
tmckloaf  pan,  and  when  well  risen  bake  it  one  hour. 


66  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

flour,  and  beat  well.  Let  it  rise  over  night,  or,  if  mixed  in 
the  morning,  about  three  hours.  Then  add  from  two  to 
three  cups  of  flour,  or  enough  to  knead  it,  and  knead  half 
an  hour.  Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl,  and  again  after  being 
shaped  into  loaves  or  rolls,  and  bake  as  usual. 

Whole-wheat  or  rye  bread  or  gems  can  be  made  from  this 
sponge  the  same  as  in  the  preceding  rule. 

Whole- Wheat  or  Graham  Bread. 


1  pint  milk,  scalded  and  cooled. 

2  tablespoonf  uls  sugar. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  cup  yeast. 


5  or  6  cups  fine  granulated  wheat 
flour,  or 

2  cups  white  flour,  and 

3  or  3)^  cups  sifted  Graham  flour. 


In  the  morning  mix,  in  the  order  given,  into  a  dough,  a 
little  softer  than  for  white  bread  ;  let  it  rise  till  light,  stir 
it  down,  pour  it  into  well-greased  pans,  or,  if  stiff  enough, 
shape  it  into  loaves ;  let  it  rise  again,  and  bake  a  little 
longer  and  in  a  less  hot  oven  than  white  bread.  Graham 
or  whole-wheat  flour  rises  more  rapidly  than  white  flour, 
as  it  contains  more  gluten.  It  is  liable  to  become  sour 
if  mixed  over  night,  and  then  the  cooks  resort  to  the  soda. 
For  the  true  remedy  use  less  yeast,  and  use  sugar  instead 
of  molasses,  or  mix  in  the  morning.  Always  sift  the  flour, 
notwithstanding  all  cook-books  say  to  the  contrary.  Use 
a  coarse  sieve  or  squash  strainer.  Sift  once,  and,  if  you 
observe  the  character  of  the  refuse,  you  will  be  glad 
to  do  so  always.  Bake  part  of  this  as  biscuit  or  rolls. 
When  made  with  ordinary  Graham  flour,  the  bread  is 
much  lighter  if  at  least  one  third  white  flour  be  used. 

Squash  Bread. 


1  cup  squash,  stewed  and  sifted. 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 
1%  cups  scalded  milk. 


1  tablespoon  ful  butter. 

%  cup  yeast. 

Flour  enough  to  knead  it. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

Mix  the  sugar  and  salt  with  the  squash,  add  the  butter 
melted  in  the  hot  milk,  and  when  cool  add  the  yeast  and 


Bread.  67 

flour.    Knead  fifteen  minutes.    Let  it  rise  till  light.    Kneacf 
and  shape  into  loaves  or  biscuit.     When  well  risen,  bake 


Eye  Bread. 

Make  by  rule  given  for  Milk  Bread,  No.  8,  adding  rye 

lour  or  rye  meal  to  the  white-flour  sponge. 


Raised  Brown  Bread.     (Mrs.  H.  B. 


1  pint  yellow  corn  meal. 
%  cup  yeast. 
3^2  cup  molasses. 


%  teaspoonf ul salt 
1  saltspoonful  soda. 
1  pint  rye  meal. 


Pnt  the  corn  meal  in  the  mixing-bowl,  and  scald  it  with 
boiling  water,  just  enough  to  wet  it ;  let  it  stand  ten  min- 
utes, then  add  cold  water  enough  to  make  a  soft  batter. 
When  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast,  molasses,  soda,  salt,  and 
rye  meal.  Beat  it  well,  and  let  it  rise  over  night,  or  until  it 
cracks  open.  Stir  it  down  ;  put  it  in  a  buttered  and  floured 
tin  to  rise  again ;  sprinkle  flour  over  the  top.  Bake  in  a 
moderate  oven  two  hours.  Brown  bread  made  by  this  rule 
was  first  tested  by  the  writer  thirty  years  ago,  when  it  was 
a  wonder  and  delight  to  watch  it  as  it  was  put  on  a  wooden 
shovel  and  placed  .n  the  great  brick  oven.  It  has  been 
made  in  the  same  house  regularly  every  week  since  then, 
and  proves  just  as  good  now  as  it  was  in  the  olden  time. 

Thirded  Bread. 


l  cup  white  flour  (St.  Louis). 

1  cup  rye  flour,  or  sifted  rye  meal. 

1  cup  yellow  corn  meal. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

3  tablespoonf  uls  sugar. 

%  cup  yeast. 


Mix  with  milk  (scalded  and  cooled)  till  thick  enough  to 
be  shaped.  Let  it  rise  until  it  cracks  open.  Put  into  a 
wriddoaf  pan,  and  when  well  risen  bake  it  one  hour- 


68  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Sour  Milk  Brown  Bread,  No.  1.     (Mrs.  Wm.  B.  Johnson.) 


1  pint  corn  meal. 
1  pint  Graham  flour. 
1  teaspoonf  ul  soda. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  pint  sour  milk. 
1  cup  molasses. 


Mix  the  meal  with  flour.  Mash  the  soda  and  salt  before 
measuring;  sift  and  mix  thoroughly  with  the  flour;  add 
the  sour  milk  and  molasses,  and  beat  well.  If  not  moist 
enough  to  pour,  add  a  little  warm  water.  Pour  it  into  a 
well-greased  mould  or  pail,  filling  it  only  two  thirds  full. 
Cover  it  with  a  tight  cover,  also  greased.  Steam  three 
hours  in  a  steamer,  or  set  the  pail  in  a  kettle  of  boiling 
water.  Keep  the  water  boiling ;  and  as  it  boils  away,  re- 
plenish with  boiling  water  to  keep  it  at  the  same  level. 
Remove  the  cover,  and  place  the  mould  in  the  oven  fifteen 
minutes  to  dry  the  crust. 

Sour  Milk  Brown  Bread,  No.  2. 


1  cup  white  corn  meal. 
1  cup  rye  flour. 
1  cup  Graham  flour 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 


1  full  teaspoonful  soda. 
%  cup  molasses. 
1  pint  sour  milk. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  sifting  the  soda,  and  adding 
more  milk  or  water  if  not  thin  enough  to  pour.  Steam 
three  hours.  One  cup  of  raisins  stoned  and  halved  may 
be  added  to  this,  or  any  of  the  receipts  for  brown  bread. 

Raised  Biscuit  and  Rolls. 

The  name  " biscuit"  is  from  the  French,  and  means 
"  twice  baked."  It  was  originally  applied  to  a  kind  of  hard, 
thin  bread,  made  in  that  manner  to  deprive  it  of  all  moist- 
ure and  insure  its  remaining  in  good  condition  for  a  long 
time.  It  was  something  like  our  crackers  and  ship  bread 
But  in  America  it  means  any  kind  of  bread  made  into 
small,  round  cakes  and  intended  to  be  eaten  hot  or  fresh. 
Raised  biscuit  may  be  made  from  any  of  the  doughs  mad6 


Rolls.  69 

by  the  receipts  for  bread ;  the  proportions  are  enough  for 
one  pan  of  bread,  and  one  pan  of  biscuit  containing  twelve 
or  sixteen  according  to  the  size.  They  should  always  be 
made  small,  and  shaped  with  the  fingers,  not  cut  with  a 
cutter.  Divide  the  portion  of  dough  reserved  for  biscuit 
into  halves,  then  into  quarters,  and  each  quarter  into 
thirds  or  quarters.  To  shape  a  biscuit,  take  one  of  these 
quarters  in  the  left  hand  and  rest  it  lightly  on  the  board. 
With  the  right  thumb  and  forefinger  draw  a  point  of  the 
dough  up  and  over  to  the  centre,  and  hold  it  down  with  the 
left  thumb.  Give  the  dough  a  slight  turn  toward  the  left, 
and  repeat  the  drawing  up  and  folding  over  until  you  have 
been  all  round  the  ball.  You  may  roll  them  in  the  hands 
until  all  these  foldings  have  disappeared  and  they  are 
smooth  and  round,  and  call  them  simply  biscuit;  or  you 
may  make  the  folds  as  distinct  as  possible,  and  place  them 
at  once  in  the  pan.  The  folds  will  spread  apart  in  rising, 
and  when  baked  they  can  be  peeled  off  in  layers.  They 
are  then  honored  with  the  name  of  Imperial  Rolls.  Put 
the  biscuit  in  a  shallow  round  pan,  fitting  them  closely, 
that  they  may  rise  up,  round  and  puffy,  instead  of  spread- 
ing. When  very  light,  bake  in  a  very  hot  oven  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes.  Keep  them  wrapped  in  a  bread  cloth  for 
at  least  half  an  hour  before  serving.  The  receipts  for 
Milk  Bread  are  especially  nice  for  biscuit 

Bolls. 

Rolls  are  made  by  rolling  the  raised  dough  into  small 
forms,  with  the  hands  or  with  a  rolling-pin,  and  afterward 
cutting  and  folding  into  the  desired  shape ;  the  shape  and 
manner  of  manipulation  giving  the  distinctive  names.  The 
dough  for  rolls  should  be  very  light,  and  when  wanted  un- 
usually nice,  more  shortening  should  be  worked  into  it  after 
the  second  kneading.  The  rule  for  Water  Bread  made 
with  a  sponge  is  good  for  plain  rolls ;  Milk  Bread  made 
with  a  sponge  is  the  same  as  Parker  House  Rolls,  which 
have  been  generally  adopted  by  housekeepers  as  the  stand* 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


ard.     The  following  are  some  of  the  best  varieties  and 
shapes  :  — 

For  Finger  Rolls,  make  a  dough  by  the  rule  for  Milk 
Bread,  No.  2,  and  when  risen  and  ready  to  shape,  divide 
the  half  reserved  for  rolls  into  twelve  pieces.  Make  each 
piece  into  a  smooth  ball  as  if  for  biscuit,  then  roll  it  be- 
tween the  palms,  or  with  the  palm  of  one  hand  on  the 
board,  into  a  long  roll  about  the  size  of  the  second  finger. 
Roll  with  buttered  hands  or  with  as  little  flour  as  possible. 
Place  them  close  together  in  a  long,  shallow  pan.  Let 
them  rise  to  the  top  of  the  pan,  and  bake  in  a  very  hot 
oven  for  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

To  make  a  Cleft  Roll,  make  the  dough  into  smooth  balls, 
then  with  a  floured  knife-handle  press  through  the  centre 
but  not  quite  through  on  the  ends.  Or  make  them  round, 
and  place  them  some  distance  apart  on  the  pan,  and  when 
ready  to  bake,  make  a  deep  cut  through  the  middle.  Make 
another  cut  at  right  angles  with  the  first  and  you  have 
a  Gross  Roll. 

Parker  House  Rolls  are  made  after  the  receipt  for  Milk 
Bread  with  sponge,  and  when  well  risen  and  ready  to  shape, 
roll  the  dough  on  the  board  as  you  would  pastry,  and,  if 
wanted  richer,  spread  a  generous  tablespoonful  of  soft- 
ened butter  all  over  it.  Fold  the  dough,  and  roll  out  again 
until  nearly  half  an  inch  thick.  Lift  the  rolled  dough  from 
the  board  and  let  it  shrink  back  all  it  will,  and  be  sure  it 
is  of  uniform  thickness  before  cutting,  or  the  rolls  will  lose 
their  shape.  Cut  with  a  round  or  oval  cutter  ;  press  the 
thumb  across  the  middle  and  fold  over  like  a  turnover, 
letting  the  edges  come  together.  As  they  rise  they  will 
open  a  little,  and,  if  folded  only  half-way  over,  the}'  are 
liable  to  open  too  far.  Spread  a  bit  of  soft  butter  the 
size  of  a  pea  on  the  edge  before  folding  it,  if  you  like 
the  crusty  inside  which  that  gives.  Or  roll  the  dough 
thinner,  and  put  two  rounds  together  with  a  thin  spread- 
ing of  butter  between  ;  these  are  called  Twin  Rolls. 

To  make  Pocket-book  or  Letter  Rolls,  roll  the  dough  in  a 
rectangular  shape  one  fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  and  cut  it  in 


Sticks.  7 1 


strips  four  inches  wide  and  as  long  as  the  dough  will  allow. 
Spread  with  soft  butter ;  fold  one  end  of  the  strip  over 
about  an  inch  and  a  half,  and  then  over  again.  Cut  off 
even  with  the  folding,  and  then  fold  another,  and  so  on. 
Or  out  the  dough  into  strips  two  inches  wide  by  seven  long, 
and  spread  each  strip  with  butter,  and  fold  one  third  over 
and  then  again  like  a  letter.  Or  roll  the  dough  out  one 
fourth  of  an  inch  thick,  then  roll  up  and  cut  pieces  one 
inch  wide  from  the  end  of  the  roll,  turn  them  over  on  the 
side,  and  place  close  together  in  a  pan  to  rise. 

To  make  a  Braid,  cut  the  rolled  dough  in  strips  one 
inch  wide  by  six  inches  long,  and  pinch  three  strips  together 
at  the  end,  then  form  into  a  braid.  Or  roll  little  balls  of 
dough  into  long  pieces  the  same  as  for  sticks,  and  then 
braid  them. 

To  make  Crescents,  or  Vienna  Rolls,  roll  the  dough 
until  only  an  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ;  cut  into  pieces  five 
inches  square  and  then  into  triangles.  Hold  the  apex  of 
the  triangle  in  the  right  hand,  roll  the  edge  next  the  left 
hand  over  and  over  towards  the  right,  stretch  the  point 
and  bring  it  over  and  under  the  roll ;  bend  the  ends  of  the 
roll  around  like  a  horseshoe,  being  careful  to  keep  in  the 
folding.  Any  dough  that  is  quite  stiff  may  be  shaped  with 
the  hands  into  small,  oval  rolls  with  quite  tapering  ends, 
and  baked  far  enough  apart  to  allow  each  roll  to  have  a 
crust  all  over.  These  are  called  French  Rolls.  An^y  of 
these  rolls  may  be  rubbed  with  a  cloth  dipped  in  melted 
butter ;  or,  better  still,  twist  a  piece  of  butter  in  a  clean 
cloth  and  rub  it  over  them  just  as  they  are  taken  from  the 
oven. 


Sticks. 


1  cup  milk,  scalded. 
^  cup  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  sugar. 
^  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 


^  cake  compressed  yeast,  or 
3  tablespoonf uls  liquid  yeast. 
White  of  1  egg. 
About  4  cups  flour.  • 


Melt  the  butter,  sugar,  and  salt  in  the  hot  milk ;  when 
lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  (if  compressed,  dissolve  in  three 


72  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

tablespoonfuls  of  warm  milk  or  water),  then  the  beaten 
white  and  flour.  Knead  until  smooth  and  fine-grained.  Let 
it  rise  over  night  or  till  light.  Shape  into  small  balls ; 
then  roll  into  sticks  a  foot  long.  Let  them  rise  slowly  and 
bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  that  they  may  be  dried  through 
before  browning.  When  shaped  into  large  plain  rolls,  they 
are  called  White  Mountain  Rolls. 

Rolls  designed  for  breakfast  or  dinner  are  better  not  to 
be  sweetened  enough  to  taste  sweet ;  but  for  tea  or  lunch 
more  sugar  may  be  added.  This  brings  us  to  another  vari- 
ety of  rolls  which  are  made  richer  by  the  addition  of  but- 
ter, sugar,  eggs,  and  fruit,  including  Swedish  Rolls,  Rusks, 
and  Sunns. 

Swedish  Rolls. 


1  pint  milk,  scalded. 
%  cup  butter. 
^  cup  sugar. 


Whites  of  2  eggs. 
%  cup  yeast. 
7  or  8  cups  flour. 


1  scant  teaspoonful  salt. 

Melt  the  butter,  and  dissolve  the  sugar  and  salt  in  the 
hot  milk  ;  when  lukewarm,  add  the  yeast  and  beaten  whites. 
Mix  in  flour  to  make  a  sponge  or  drop  batter.  In  the 
morning  add  the  remainder  of  the  flour,  and  knead  twenty 
minutes.  Let  it  rise  till  noon  or  till  light ;  then  knead 
again  slightly,  and  roll  out  into  a  large,  rectangular  piece, 
half  an  inch  thick.  Have  the  edges  as  straight  as  possi- 
ble. Spread  all  over  with  a  thin  layer  of  soft  butter,  and 
a  sprinkling  of  sugar,  cinnamon,  grated  lemon  rind,  and 
currants.  Roll  up  like  a  jelly  roll,  cut  off  slices  an  inch 
wide,  lay  them  with  the  cut  side  down  on  well-greased 
pane,  and  when  well  risen  bake  in  a  hot  oven  fifteen  or 
twenty  minutes.  When  done,  glaze  them  with  sugar  dis- 
solved in  milk,  and  dry  them  a  few  minutes  in  the  oven,  or 
rub  them  with  soft  butter.  If  mixed  in  the  morning, 
make  a  sponge  with  the  scalded  milk  cooled,  the  eggs, 
salt,  sugar,  and  part  of  the  flour.  Place  the  bowl  in  a 
pan  of  warm  water  for  three  or  four  hours ;  then  add  the 
butter  and  the  remainder  of  the  flour.  Knead,  and  after 
it  is  well  risen  roll  out  as  above. 


Rusk.  73 


Rusk,  No.  1. 

1  cup  milk,  scalded  and  cooled.  ^  cup  yeast. 

1  tablespoonful  sugar.  2  cups  flour. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

Mix  in  a  sponge  at  night  or  very  early  in  the  morning. 
When  well  risen,  add  flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough. 
Knead  and  let  it  rise  again,  then  add  one  fourth  of  a  cup 
of  butter,  rubbed  to  a  cream,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  one 
egg,  beaten  with  butter  and  sugar.  Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl 
till  light.  Shape  into  small  round  biscuit ;  put  them  close 
together  in  a  shallow  cake  pan,  that  they  may  rise  very 
high.  When  ready  to  bake,  rub  the  tops  with  sugar  dis- 
solved in  milk,  sprinkle  with  dry  sugar,  and  bake  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Rusk,  No.  2. 

Make  a  dough  at  night  by  the  rule  for  Milk  Bread,  No.  1. 
In  the  morning  make  half  the  dough  into  a  loaf  for  bread. 
Put  with  the  remainder  half  a  cup  of  butter,  creamed,  with 
one  cup  of  sugar  and  one  egg,  well  beaten ;  mix  and  beat 
well ;  add  half  a  cup  of  four,  or  enough  to  shape  it  easily. 
Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl,  shape  into  small  rounds  or  into 
long  narrow  rolls,  and  when  very  light,  glaze  them  and 
bake  as  in  the  preceding  rule. 


Rusk,  No.  3.    (Miss  Yandex.} 


1  pint  milk,  scalded. 

Yz  cup  butter  and  lard,  mixed. 

%  cup  sugar. 


1  cup  potato  yeast 

3  eggs. 

Flour  as  required. 


Mix  early  in  the  morning,  in  the  order  given,  adding 
flour  enough  to  make  a  thin  batter.  Let  it  rise  till  full  of 
bubbles,  then  add  flour  enough  to  knead  it.  When  well 
risen,  shape  into  rounds,  or  roll  out  and  cut  them.  Let 
them  rise  in  the  pans  till  very  light ;  then  bake  in  a  hot 
oven  about  half  an  hour. 


74  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Dried  Rusks  are  made  after  either  of  these  receipts,  and 
when  riseli  are  rolled  thin,  cut  into  rounds,  and  put  two 
together  into  the  pan.  When  baked,  the}'  are  pulled  apart 
and  left  in  a  very  moderate  oven  to  dry.  Or  they  are  cut 
in  slices  when  cold,  and  dried  until  crisp  and  brown. 
They  are  delicious  soaked  in  milk  and  eaten  with  butter, 
or  used  the  same  as  bread  in  puddings,  or  soaked  in  a 
custard  and  sauted. 

Bunns. 
Make  a  sponge  over  night  with 


1  cup  milk,  scalded. 
1  tablespoonf ul  sugar  and  1  egg 
beaten  together. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 
^  cup  yeast. 

2  cups  flour. 


Beat  it  well  and  in  the  morning  add  flour  to  made  a  stiff 
dough.  Knead  fifteen  minutes.  Let  it  rise  until  light, 
then  add  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  butter,  softened,  half  a  cup 
of  currants,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  cinnamon  or  nutmeg. 
Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl  till  light.  Shape  into  small 
round  cakes,  put  them  close  together,  and  when  well 
risen  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Glaze  them  with  sugar 
and  milk,  or  with  white  of  egg  beaten  stiff  with  sugar. 
Make  a  deep  cut  like  a  cross  just  before  they  are  put  into 
the  oven,  and  you  have  Hot  Gross  Bunns.  Many  prefer 
a  bit  of  citron  put  into  the  middle  of  each  bunn.  These 
are  better  when  freshly  baked.  It  is  therefore  well  to 
make  only  a  small  quantity.  They  may  be  made  from 
risen  milk-bread  dough  in  the  same  manner  as  Rusk,  No. 
2,  by  using  the  spices  and  the  fruit  and  a  smaller  quantity 
of  sugar.  This  receipt  for  bunns  makes  excellent  raised 
doughnuts  by  omitting  the  currants  and  rolling  half  an 
inch  thick  and  cutting  with  a  doughnut  cutter. 

Raised  Bread  Cake,  or  Loaf  Cake. 

This  is  similar  to  rusks  and  bunns,  only  richer ;  and  as 
it  improves  by  keeping,  it  is  well  to  make  a  large  quantity. 


Stale  Bread.  75 


At  night  mix  one  pint  of  milk,  scalded  and  cooled,  one 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  cup  of  yeast,  Jive  or  six  cups  of 
flour,  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough.  In  the  morning  pre- 
pare one  cup  of  butter,  creamed ;  add  two  cups  of  In-own 
sugar,  one  tablespoonful  of  mixed  spices,  —  cinnamon,  nut- 
meg, and  allspice,  —  and  four  eggs,  }rolks  and  whites  beaten 
separately.  Add  this  mixture  to  the  beaten  dough,  and 
beat  well.  Add  two  cups  of  stoned  and  chopped  raisins,  or 
one  cup  of  raisins,  one  cup  of  currants  and  half  a  cup  of 
sliced  citron.  Flour  the  fruit.  Let  it  rise  in  the  bowl  till 
light.  Stir  it  down,  and  pour  into  two  deep  cake  tins, 
making  them  two  thirds  full.  Let  it  stand  in  a  warm 
place  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  then  bake  one  hour  or 
longer  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Uses  for  Stale  Bread. 

Ah1  bread  crumbs  left  on  the  plates  or  bread  board  or  In 
the  bread  jar,  any  broken  pieces  not  suitable  for  toast, 
and  any  crusts  or  trimmings  of  toast  should  be  carefully 
collected  in  a  pan  by  themselves,  and  dried  (not  browned) 
in  the  hot  closet  or  in  a  moderate  oven,  then  pounded  in 
a  mortar  or  rolled  on  an  old  bread  board,  sifted  through 
a  coarse  sieve,  and  put  away  in  a  diy  place.  These  will 
be  useful  in  covering  anything  which  is  to  be  dipped  in  egg 
and  crumbs  and  then  fried.  Bread  crumbs  brown  better 
than  cracker  crumbs,  and  are  much  cheaper,  being  made 
from  material  which  is  usually  thrown  away.  These  are 
dried  bread  crumbs,  and  are  not  to  be  used  for  bread  pud- 
ding or  scalloped  dishes,  as  they  will  absorb  a  great  deal 
of  moisture.  They  will  keep  indefinitely  in  a  dry  place 
Stale  bread  crumbs,  which  are  not  dried  in  the  oven,  but  are 
made  from  odds  and  ends  of  stale  bread,  crumbled  finely 
or  grated  on  a  coarse  grater,  are  better  for  meat  or  fish 
stuffing,  bread  puddings,  bread  sauce,  bread  griddle-cakes, 
scalloped  fish,  etc.  The}r  should  be  used  at  once,  as  they 
soon  become  must}'.  Any  whole  slices  of  stale  bread 
be  steamed  or  used  for  toast. 


76  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Stale  Bread  Steamed. 

Have  a  large  covered  steamer  fitting  tightly  over  a  ket- 
tle of  boiling  water.  One  with  holes  all  over  the  bottom 
is  best,  as  the  steam  condenses  and  runs  down  the  sides 
and  through  the  holes  ;  while  in  those  with  holes  only  in 
the  middle  it  forms  little  pools  of  water  round  the  edge, 
which  make  the  bread  soggy.  Do  not  put  in  the  bread 
until  everything  else  is  ready,  as  it  takes  only  a  few  min- 
utes for  it  to  become  heated  through.  Arrange  it  all  in 
the  middle  of  the  steamer,  tilted  against  a  small  cup  or 
dish  so  that  the  steam  may  pass  between  the  slices.  Do 
not  let  any  of  it  touch  the  sides  of  the  steamer,  or  it  will 
become  water-soaked.  When  ready  to  remove  it,  lift  the 
cover  quickly,  turning  it  over  instantly,  that  no  water  may 
drip  on  the  bread.  Spread  each  slice  with  butter  as  you 
take  it  out,  and  arrange  them  on  a  hot  platter.  Cover 
with  a  napkin  and  serve  immediately.  Stale  biscuit  may 
be  made  much  nicer  than  new  in  this  way.  These  direc- 
tions may  seem  needlessly  minute ;  but  it  is  just  these 
little  things  that  make  the  difference  between  light,  deli- 
cate, hot  steamed  bread,  and  the  heavy,  water-soaked 
stuff  that  is  often  served. 


Egg  Toast,  or  Bread  Sauted. 

1  egg.  1  cup  milk. 

1  saltspoonful  salt.  4  to  6  slices  stale  bread. 

Beat  the  egg  lightly  with  a  fork  in  a  shallow  pudding- 
dish  ;  add  salt  and  milk.  Soak  the  bread  in  this  until  soft. 
Turn  the  slices  by  putting  those  underneath  on  the  top, 
and  dip  the  custard  over  them,  being  careful  not  to  break 
them.  Have  a  griddle  hot  and  well  buttered.  Brown 
them  on  one  side  ;  then  put  a  piece  of  butter  on  the  top  of 
each  slice,  and  turn  and  brown  on  the  other  side.  To  be 
eaten  hot  with  butter,  also  with  sugar  and  cinnamon  if 
liked.  This  is  one  of  the  nicest  ways  of  freshening  stale 
bread,  and  is  especially  convenient  when  the  fire  is  not  in 


Toast  77 

order  for  toasting.  It  is  called  French,  Spanish,  German, 
and  Nun's  Toast ;  but  Egg  Toast  seems  to  best  indicate 
the  character  of  the  dish.  When  fried  in  deep  fat,  it  may 
be  used  as  a  pudding  by  serving  with  a  sweet  sauce,  and 
is  then  called  Italian  Fritters. 

Brown  Bread  Brewis. 

Break  one  pint  of  dry  brown  bread  and  half  a  cup  of  stale 
white  bread  into  inch  pieces.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter 
in  a  large  frying-pan,  and  when  it  is  melted,  but  not  brown, 
add  the  bread  and  cover  with  one  pint  or  more  of  milk. 
Let  it  simmer,  stirring  occasionally  to  keep  it  from  stick- 
ing, until  the  bread  is  soft  and  the  milk  absorbed.  Salt 
to  taste. 

Brown  Bread  Brewis,  No.  2. 

Mix  the  same  proportion  of  bread  with  one  fourth  of  a 
cup  of  butter  in  a  double  boiler  ;  add  milk  to  cover,  and  cook 
over  hot  water  without  stirring  until  the  bread  has  absorbed 
all  the  milk.  If  the  bread  be  very  dry,  more  milk  will  be 
needed. 

Toast. 

Bread  is  toasted,  or  dried  and  browned,  before  the  fire 
to  extract  the  moisture  and  make  it  more  palatable  and 
digestible.  If  the  slices  be  cut  thick  and  carelessly  ex- 
posed to  a  blazing  fire,  the  outside  is  blackened  and 
made  into  charcoal  before  the  heat  can  reach  the  inside ; 
the  moisture  is  only  heated,  not  evaporated,  making  the 
inside  doughy  or  clammy,  and  when  spread  with  butter, 
which  cannot  penetrate  the  charcoal,  but  floats  on  the  sur- 
face in  the  form  of  oil,  it  forms  one  of  the  most  indigestible 
compounds.  The  correct  way  is  to  have  the  bread  stale, 
and  cut  into  thin,  uniform  slices  about  one  quarter  of  an 
inch  thick.  The  fire  should  be  clear,  red  (not  blazing) 
coals.  The  crusts  may  be  removed  or  not  according  to 
your  taste,  or  the  purpose  for  which  the  toast  is  intended. 
If  you  require  only  one  or  two  slices,  a  toasting-fork  will 


78  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

answer ;  but  if  a  larger  quantity  be  needed,  there  is  nothing 
better  than  a  double  broiler  with  wires  about  a  third  of  an 
inch  apart.  Place  the  slices  evenly  on  one  side  of  the 
broiler,  being  careful  not  to  put  in  more  than  can  be 
equally  exposed  to  the  fire ;  close  the  broiler  and  hold  it 
firmly,  that  the  slices  may  not  slip  ;  move  it  gently  over  the 
fire  for  one  or  two  minutes  ;  then  turn  it  over,  that  all  the 
moisture  may  be  drawn  out ;  hold  it  nearer  to  the  coals, 
and  color  it  a  delicate  golden-brown.  Serve  at  once  in  a 
toast  rack  or  piled  lightly,  that  it  may  not  lose  its  crisp- 
ness.  Butter  before  serving,  or  send  it  dry  to  the  table. 
Bread  properly  dried  and  toasted  is  changed  from  the 
nature  of  dough,  which  always  has  a  tendency  to  sour  on 
the  stomach,  into  pure  wheat  farina.  It  is  not  so  scorched 
as  to  turn  the  butter  into  oil,  but  absorbs  the  butter ;  and 
butter  and  farina,  being  easily  separated,  are  quickly  acted 
upon  by  the  gastric  fluid.  Many  persons  prefer  toast  that 
is  soft  inside,  but  it  should  never  be  served  to  sick  people 
in  that  manner.  It  is  better  to  have  it  dry,  and  then  mois- 
tened with  milk  or  water,  than  to  have  it  doughy.  If  the 
bread  be  freshly  baked  and  }TOU  must  make  toast,  dry  the 
slices  in  a  warm  oven  before  toasting.  Alwa}Ts  toast  over 
the  coals,  or  in  the  oven.  If  toasted  over  a  hot  stove,  the 
crumbs  fall  through  and  burn,  giving  it  a  scorched  and 
smoky  flavor. 


Milk  Toast. 


1  pint  milk,  scalded. 


1  te>blespoonf  ul  cornstarch. 
1  large  tablespoonf  ul  butter. 


3^  teaspoonful  salt. 
6  slices  dry  toast. 


Scald  the  milk ;  put  the  butter  in  a  granite  saucepan ; 
when  melted,  add  the  dry  cornstarch ;  when  well  mixed, 
add  one  third  of  the  milk.  Let  it  boil,  and  stir  constantly 
till  it  is  a  smooth  paste ;  add  the  remainder  of  the  milk 
gradually,  stirring  well ;  then  add  the  salt.  Put  the  toast 
in  a  hot  deep  dish  ;  pour  the  thickened  milk  between  each 
slice  and  over  the  whole.  Keep  the  dish  over  hot  water 
until  ready  to  serve.  If  liked  very  soft,  the  slices  may  be 


Entire   Wheat  Bread.  79 


first  dipped  in  hot  salted  water,  or  in  the  hot  milk  before 
it  is  thickened. 

Cream  Toast. 

Cream  toast  may  be  made  in  the  same  way,  using  a 
scant  tallespoonful  of  butter,  and  cream  instead  of  milk, 
or  by  thickening  the  boiling  cream  with  one  tallespoonful 
of  comstarch  wet  in  a  little  cold  milk  or  water ;  then  salt 
to  taste,  and  boil  eight  or  ten  minutes. 

Water  Toast. 

Have  a  shallow  pan  with  one  quart  of  boiling  water  and 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Dip  each  slice  of  dry  toast  quickly 
in  the  water,  then  pile  on  a  hot  platter.  Spread  evenly 
with  butter  and  serve  very  hot.  Do  not  let  them  soak  an 
instant  in  the  water. 

Toast  for  Garnishing. 

For  poached  eggs,  cut  the  bread  into  rounds  with  a 
large  cake-cutter  before  toasting.  For  small  birds  or  as- 
paragus, remove  the  crusts  and  cut  into  oblong  pieces. 
For  minces  and  fricassees,  cut  into  small  squares  or  dia- 
monds. For  a  border,  cut,  after  toasting,  into  inch  and  a 
half  squares,  and  then  into  halves  diagonally,  making  tn- 
angles  ;  or  cut  into  long  pointed  triangles. 

Entire  Wheat  Bread,  Made  Quickly. 

Put  one  teaspoon  of  butter  and  half  a  teaspoon  each 
of  sugar  and  salt  in  one  cup  of  scalded  milk.  When  cool, 
add  half  a  cake  of  compressed  yeast  dissolved  in  one  third 
of  a  cup  of  lukewarm  water.  Stir  in  fine  whole-wheat  flour 
till  stiff  enough  to  keep  in  shape  after  you  stop  stirring. 
Mix  it  well,  but  do  not  knead  it.  Let  it  rise  to  double  its 
bulk,  then  knead  it  just  enough  to  shape  it  into  a  long 
thin  roll.  When  light  and  double,  bake  in  a  hot  oven 
about  thirty  minutes.  Mix  in  the  morning  and  it  will 
be  baked  before  dinner. 


80  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


SODA  BISCUIT,  MUFFINS,  GEMS,  ETC. 

IN  making  biscuit,  etc.,  our  grandmothers  used  saleratus, 
an  alkali  prepared  by  exposing  pearlash,  i.  e.,  purified 
potash,  to  carbonic  acid  gas.  Potash  is  a  fixed  alkali 
made  from  wood  ashes.  Now  soda  bicarbonate,  made 
from  common  salt,  is  generally  used. 

Crude  soda  is  known  as  sal-soda  or  soda-saleratus ; 
when  refined,  it  is  carbonate  and  bicarbonate  of  soda. 
But  the  purest  soda  obtained  to-day  is  that  made  from 
Kryolith,  a  mineral  found  only  in  Greenland.  It  is 
called  Natrona  Bicarbonate  of  Soda,  and  is  an  ingredient 
of  the  purest  baking-powders. 

Pure,  strong  alkalies  are  powerful  corrosive  poisons, 
eating  the  coats  of  the  stomach  perhaps  quicker  than  any 
other  poisonous  agent.  This  caustic  or  burning  property 
is  somewhat  weakened  by  the  carbonic  acid  united  with 
them,  and  is  therefore  less  in  bicarbonate  of  soda  than  in 
the  potash  compounds.  The  latter  are  now  seldom  used. 
Alkalies  when  properly  combined  with  acids  lose  this  poi- 
sonous property ;  the  carbonic  acid  gas  is  liberated,  and 
the  compound  formed  by  this  union  is  called  a  neutral  salt, 
being  neither  acid  nor  alkaline.  When  not  properly  com- 
bined, if  the  acid  be  stronger  than  the  alkali,  the  salt  is 
acid  ;  and  if  the  alkali  be  in  excess,  the  salt  is  alkaline  and 
still  poisonous. 

Soda  has  a  great  affinity  for  water;  and  when  wet,  a 
combination  takes  place  which  allows  some  of  the  carbonic 
acid  gas  to  escape.  This  may  easily  be  seen  by  the  effer- 
vescence which  occurs  when  soda  is  dissolved  in  hot  water. 
This,  the  old  way  of  using  soda,  was  theoretically  wrong, 
as  much  of  the  gas  was  lost ;  yet  practically  good  results 
were  obtained,  because  the  saleratus  formerly  used  was 
much  stronger  than  the  bicarbonate  of  soda  of  to-day,  and 
could  well  be  weakened. 


Soda  and  Cream  of  Tartar.  8 1 

Soda  alone,  when  mixed  with  wet  dough,  will  give  off  gas 
enough  to  raise  the  dough  ;  but  it  leaves  a  strong  alkaline 
taste  and  a  greenish  yellow  color,  and,  being  poisonous, 
must  be  neutralized  by  an  acid,  or  else  its  use  is  not  ad- 
missible. The  best  acid  for  this  purpose  is  one  which  does 
not  liberate  the  gas  instantly  on  contact  with  the  soda, 
before  the  heat  can  fix  the  air  cells,  and  also  the  one 
which  leaves  no  unwholesome  residue. 

Muriatic  Acid,  which  is  sometimes  used,  would  be  the 
best,  as  it  leaves  only  common  salt  as  a  residue  ;  but  the 
gas  is  liberated  instantly,  and  only  a  skilled  hand  can  mix 
the  bread  and  place  it  in  the  oven  without  losing  much 
of  the  gas. 

Cream  of  Tartar,  which  is  fcartaric  acid  combined  with 
potash,  and  is  obtained  from  the  crystals  or  argols  which 
collect  in  wine  casks,  is  preferred  by  chemists.  Being 
only  slightly  soluble  in  cold  water,  it  unites  with  soda 
only  when  heated,  and  the  gas  is  not  all  liberated  until 
the  mixture  is  in  the  oven.  The  residue  from  the  union 
is  Rochelle  salt,  which  is  not  injurious  taken  occasionally 
in  small  quantities.  The  objections  to  cream  of  tartar  are 
these :  being  very  expensive  (the  price  varjing  with  the 
grape  crop),  it  is  often  adulterated  with  cornstarch,  flour, 
or  other  substances  ;  and  the  careless  cook  guesses  at  the 
proportions  of  soda  needed  instead  of  measuring  accu- 
rately. The  only  safe  way  to  use  these  chemicals  is  to 
purchase  cream  of  tartar  of  a  reliable  grocer,  and  to 
measure  carefully  one  level  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  two 
slightly  rounded  teaspoonfuls  of  cream  of  tartar  for  one 
quart  of  flour.  It  takes  a  trifle  more  than  twice  the 
quantity  of  cream  of  tartar  to  make  the  reaction  complete. 
The  soda  must  be  finely  pulverized  before  measuring; 
rub  it  on  the  board  with  a  knife,  measure,  and  then  sift 
through  the  finest  wire  strainer  into  the  flour.  Sifting 
with  the  flour  through  an  ordinary  flour  sieve  is  not 
enough.  Cream  of  tartar  does  not  become  lumpy  like 
soda ;  but  it  is  better  to  sift  it,  and  salt  also,  into  the 
flour,  and  then  sift  all  together  two  or  three  tunes. 

6 


82  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Baking- Powders.  —  The  most  reliable  and  convenient 
quick  leavening  agent  is  a  pure  cream  of  tartar  baking- 
powder.  If  pure,  it  will  contain  only  soda  bicarbonate 
and  cream  of  tartar  mixed  by  weight  in  the  correct  pro- 
portion, and  combined  with  the  least  possible  amount  of 
cornstarch  or  flour  necessary  for  its  perfect  keeping. 
Any  amount  of  starch  above  this  is  an  adulteration  as 
truly  as  if  some  harmful  substance  were  used.  Baking- 
powders  having  their  formula  printed  on  the  label  of 
their  tins,  may  be  relied  upon.  Biscuits  made  without 
eggs  require  two  level  teaspoons  of  baking-powder  for 
each  cup  of  flour.  Muffins  and  rich  cakes  with  eggs, 
from  one  and  one-half  to  one  level  teaspoon  for  each 
cup  of  flour  or  meal. 

Soda  is  also  neutralized  by  sour  milk  or  lactic  acid. 
This  is  economical,  particularly  for  those  who  have 
plenty  of  pure  milk.  But  milk  in  winter  grows  bitter 
before  it  sours  ;  and  the  degree  of  acidity  varies  so  much 
that  the  result  is  often  failure.  Sour  milk  is  best  when 
it  sours  quickly,  and  is  thick  and  smooth,  not  separated. 
One  even  teaspoonful  of  soda  to  one  pint  of  nicely  thickened  or 
loppered  milk  is  the  proportion.  When  the  milk  tastes 
or  smells  sour,  but  is  not  thick,  use  it  as  sweet  milk  in 
gingerbread  or  brown  bread,  where  you  have  molasses  to 
complete  the  acidity.  Add  a  very  little  more  soda  if 
the  receipt  call  for  sweet  milk,  or  a  little  less  if  for  sour 
milk. 

Nearly  all  kinds  of  soda  biscuit,  muffins,  gems,  etc., 
should  have  the  dry  ingredients  mixed  in  one  bowl,  and 
the  liquids,  such  as  milk,  eggs,  melted  butter,  etc.,  in 
another  ;  and  when  ready  to  bake,  stir  the  two  quickly  and 
thoroughly  together,  and  bake  immediately  in  a  very  hot 
oven. 

Molasses  gives  another  acid  which  is  combined  with 
soda,  to  raise  and  lighten  dough.  Directions  for  its  use 
are  given  under  rules  for  brown  bread  and  molasses 
gingerbread. 


Baking-Powder.  83 


Soda  and  Cream  of  Tartar  Biscuit. 


1  quart  sifted  flour. 

1  even  teaspoonf ul  salt. 

1  even  teaspoonful  soda,   meas- 


full    teaspoonfuls    cream    of 


tartar. 


1  large  tablespoonf  ul  butter. 


ured  after  pulverizing. 
Milk  to  make  a  very  soft  dough :  new-process  flour  will  take  a 
pint  or  more ;  St.  Louis  flour,  less. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  sifting  the  soda,  salt,  and  cream  of 
tartar  into  the  flour.  Then  sift  all  together  twice.  Rub  in 
the  butter  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers,  until  there  are  no 
large  lumps.  Mix  in  the  milk  gradually,  using  a  broad 
knife  and  wetting  only  a  small  part  of  the  flour  with  each 
addition  of  the  milk.  When  just  stiff  enough  to  be  handled 
(not  kneaded) ,  cut  it  through  with  the  knife  until  barely 
mixed  ;  it  should  look  spongy  in  the  cuts  and  seem  full  of 
air.  Turn  it  out  on  a  well-floured  board ;  toss  with  the 
knife  till  well  floured  ;  touch  it  with  the  hands  as  little  as 
possible  ;  pat  it  with  the  rolling-pin,  which  must  be  lifted 
quickly  that  it  may  not  stick ;  and  when  the  dough  is 
about  half  an  inch  thick,  cut  it  into  rounds  and  bake 
at  once. 

To  make  Twin  Biscuit,  roll  the  dough  out  less  than  half 
an  inch  thick,  cut  into  rounds,  spread  with  softened  but- 
ter, and  put  two  together,  and  bake  ten  or  fifteen  minutes. 

Baking-Powder  Biscuit. 

These  are  made  in  the  same  way  as  the  preceding, 
using  three  rounding  teaspoonfuls  or  eight  level  of 
baking-powder  in  place  of  soda  and  cream  of  tartar. 

Sour  Milk  Biscuit. 

These  should  be  made  the  same  as  cream  of  tartar  bis- 
cuit, using  one  pint  of  thick  sour  milk  instead  of  sweet 
milk,  and  omitting  the  cream  of  tartar.  Observe  the  same 
directions  as  to  lightness  and  dexterity  in  mixing,  and 
vary  the  amount  of  milk  according  to  the  flour. 


84 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Whole- Wheat  or  Rye  Biscuit  (with  Soda). 


1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar.1 

1  tablespoonful  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  melted  butter. 


1  cup  whole-wheat  or  rye  flour. 
1  cup  white  flour. 
%  teaspoonfnl  salt. 
^  teaspoonful  soda. 

Milk  enough  to  make  a  drop  batter  (about  one  cup).  If  sour  milk  be 
used,  omit  the  cream  of  tartar. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  hot  gem  pans 
twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 

Cream  Biscuit. 

When  using  sweet  cream,  make  the  same  as  cream  of 
tartar  biscuit ;  and  when  using  sour  cream,  the  same  as 
sour-milk  biscuit,  omitting  the  butter  in  either  case.  An}' 
of  these  mixtures  may  be  baked  in  gem  or  muffin  pans  by 
using  more  milk,  and  making  the  dough  soft  enough  to 
drop  from  the  spoon. 


Short  Cakes,  No.  1. 


1  pint  sifted  flour. 
3*2  teaspoonful  salt,  scant. 
%    teaspoonful    soda,    measured 
after  pulverizing. 


1  full  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 
(omit  if  sour  milk  be  used). 

^  cup  butter. 

1  cup  sweet  or  sour  milk,  or  cold 
water. 


Mix  the  salt,  soda,  and  cream  of  tartar  with  the  flour, 
and  sift  two  or  three  times.  Rub  in  the  butter  until  fine 
like  meal,  or  if  liked  very  short  and  crisp,  melt  the  butter 
and  add  it  hot  with  the  milk.  Add  the  liquid  gradual!}7, 
mixing  and  cutting  with  a  knife,  and  use  just  enough  to 
make  it  of  a  light  spongy  consistency.  Scrape  out  the 
dough  upon  a  well-floured  board ;  toss  it  with  the  knife 
until  floured ;  pat  into  a  flat  cake,  and  roll  gently,  till  half 
an  inch  thick  ;  cut  with  a  small  round  cutter,  and  bake  on 
the  griddle  or  in  the  oven.  If  you  use  a  griddle,  grease 
it  well  with  salt  pork  or  butter,  and  cook  the  cakes  slowly  ; 
watch  and  turn  them,  that  all  may  be  browned  alike. 

1  4  level  teaspoons  baking-powder  may  be  used  instead  of  soda  and  cream 
of  tartar. 


Shortcakes.  85 


When  they  are  well  puffed  up,  put  a  bit  of  butter  on  the  top 
of  each,  and  turn  over,  — or  move  them  to  one  side  and 
grease  again  with  the  pork,  and  turn  over  upon  the  freshly 
greased  place.  When  browned  on  the  other  side  and 
done,  of  which  you  can  judge  by  the  firmness  of  texture 
or  by  pulling  one  partly  open,  serve  immediately.  Tear 
them  open,  as  cutting  with  a  knife  makes  them  heavy  and 
indigestible.  If  to  be  baked  in  the  oven,  put  them  quite 
close  together  in  a  shallow  pan,  and  bake  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes. 

Short  Cakes,  No.  2. 

Make  by  rule  No.  1,  and  divide  into  two  parts  ;  pat  and 
roll  each  part  into  a  large,  round  cake  the  size  of  a  pie 
plate,  and  bake  either  in  a  spider  or  in  the  oven.  These 
short  cakes  may  be  eaten  hot  with  butter  if  for  a  simple 
breakfast  or  tea  cake,  or  buttered  and  spread  with  sweet- 
ened fruit  for  dessert. 

Strawberry  Short  Cake,  No.  1. 

Make  a  crust  by  rule  for  Dutch  Apple  Cake,  on  page  86  ; 
bake  it  on  round  tins  ;  split,  butter,  and  spread  with  sweet- 
ened berries  and  cream. 

Strawberry  Short  Cake,  No.  2. 

Make  by  rule  No.  1  for  Short  Cake,  and  bake  on  a  grid- 
dle in  small  rounds.  Tear  open,  and  spread  each  half 
with  softened  butter.  Put  half  of  the  cakes  on  a  hot  plate. 
Mash  a  pint  of  strawberries*  sweeten  to  taste,  put  a  large 
spoonful  on  each  cake ;  then  put  another  layer  of  cakes, 
and  whole  berries,  well  sugared.  Serve  with  cream. 


. 


Peach  Short  Cake. 


Make  by  either  of  the  receipts  for  Strawberry  Short  Cake, 
and  spread  with  sliced  and  sweetened  peaches.  Apricots 
may  be  used  in  the  same  way ;  and  cream  may  be  added 
if  preferred. 


86  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Orange  Short  Cake. 

The  same  as  Strawberry,  using  oranges.  Peel  and  di- 
vide the  oranges,  remove  the  seeds  and  thick  inner  skin, 
and  cut  each  section  into  three  or  four  pieces.  Sweeten 
to  taste. 

Whole- Wheat  or  Rye  Short  Cakes. 


1  cup  white  flour. 
1  cup  whole-wheat  or  rye  flour. 
4  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 


1  tablespoonful  sugar. 

1  cup  of  sweet  milk,  the  amount 

varying  with  the  flour. 
1  tablespoonful  melted  butter. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  making  the  dough  stiff  enough 
to  be  rolled.  Cut  into  rounds  and  bake  on  a  griddle  ;  tear 
open  and  serve  with  cream  and  salt.  Or  roll  very  thin, 
cut  and  bake  in  the  oven,  split  and  pour  cream  thickened 
as  for  toast  over  them. 


Dutch  Apple  Cake.     (Mrs.  A.  A.  Lincoln.) 


I  pint  flour. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

^   teaspoonful  soda,  sifted  into 

the  flour. 
1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar.1 


%  cup  butter. 
1  egg. 

1  scant  cup  milk. 
4  sour  apples. 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 


Mix  the  dry  ingredients  in  the  order  given  ;  rub  in  the 
butter ;  beat  the  egg  and  mix  it  with  the  milk ;  then  stir 
this  into  the  dry  mixture.  The  dough  should  be  soft 
enough  to  spread  half  an  inch"  thick  on  a  shallow  baking- 
pan.  Core,  pare,  and  cut  four  or  five  apples  into  eighths  ; 
lay  them  in  parallel  rows  on  top  of  the  dough,  the  sharp 
edge  down,  and  press  enough  to  make  the  edge  penetrate 
slightly.  Sprinkle  the  sugar  on  the  apple.  Bake  in  a  hot 
oven  twenty  or  thirty  minutes.  To  be  eaten  hot  with  but- 
ter as  a  tea  cake,  or  with  lemon  sauce  as  a  pudding. 

1  3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder  may  be  used  instead  of  soda  and  cream 
of  tartar. 


Berry   Cakes.  87 


Apple  or  Huckleberry  Cakes. 


1  pint  sifted  flour. 

%  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 

3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

%  cup  butter. 

^  cup  sugar. 


1  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  sep- 
arately. 

1  cup  milk. 

1  heaping  cup  huckleberries  or 
thinly  sliced  apples. 


Mix  the  flour,  salt,  and  baking-powder,  and  sift  two  or 
three  times.  Have  the  berries  picked  over,  washed,  dried, 
and  sprinkled  with  flour.  Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add 
the  sugar,  and  beat  again.  Add  the  yolk  well  beaten,  and 
then  the  milk.  Stir  this  into  the  flour  and  beat  thor- 
oughly ;  add  the  white  beaten  stiff,  and,  lastly,  the  berries, 
being  careful  not  to  break  them.  Bake  in  a  shallow  pan 
or  in  muffin  pans  about  half  an  hour. 

These  may  be  made  with  sour  milk,  omitting  the  baking- 
powder,  and  using  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  ;  or  leave  out 
half  a  cup  of  flour,  and  substitute  for  it  half  a  cup  of  fine 
white  corn  meal. 

Huckleberry  Cake,  No.  2.     (Mrs.  A.  A.  Lincoln.) 


1  pint  flour. 

J^  teaspoonful  salt. 

4  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 

%  cup  sugar. 


2  tablespoons  butter. 
Milk  or  water  enough  to  moisten. 
1  cup  berries,  washed,  dried,  and 
floured. 


Mix  salt,  baking-powder,  and  sugar  with  the  flour. 
Rub  in  the  butter,  and  moisten  with  milk  or  water  to  make 
a  dough  stiff  enough  to  keep  in  shape  when  dropped  from 
a  spoon.  Add  the  berries,  which  should  be  well  floured  to 
keep  them  from  settling.  Drop  by  the  large  spoonfuls  on 
a  well-buttered  shallow  pan.  Bake  twenty  minutes. 

Raised  Flour  Muffins  or  Sally  Lunns  (with  Yeast). 


1  cup  milk,  scalded  and  cooled. 
i<2  teaspoonful  salt,  scant. 
1  teaspoonful  sugar. 
^  cup  yeast. 


1  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  sep- 
arately. 

Flour  enough  to  make  a  drop 
batter. 


If  intended  for  tea,  add  two  table  spoonfuls  of  sugar,  and 
mix  late  in  the  forenoon.     They  will  rise  in  five  or  six 


88  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

hours ;"  then  add  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  melted. 
When  well  mixed,  fill  muffin  pans  two  thirds  full.  Let 
them  rise  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  bake  in  a  hot 
oven.  Or  they  may  be  baked  in  muffin  rings  on  a  griddle, 
in  which  case  it  is  better  to  add  the  melted  butter  at  the 
first  mixing.  When  ready  to  bake,  have  the  griddle  and 
rings  well  greased ;  contrive  to  take  up  a  spoonful  of  the 
dough  without  stirring  enough  to  let  out  the  air,  and  fill 
each  ring  ;  cook  until  brown  and  well  risen,  then  turn  ring 
and  muffin  together,  and  brown  the  other  side.  Pull  them 
apart,  never  cut  them.  This  same  mixture,  when  risen  and 
baked  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish  in  which  it  is  to  be 
served,  is  the  old-fashioned  Sally  Lunn.  Cut  with  the 
point  of  a  warm  knife.  If  intended  for  breakfast,  make  a 
batter  with  the  milk,  yeast,  flour,  and  sugar,  mix  late  in 
the  evening  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  In  the  morning  add 
the  egg,  melted  butter,  and  salt,  and  bake  as  usual. 

Muffins  or  Sally  Lunns,  No.  2  (made  quickly). 


pint  flour. 

3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 
%,  teaspoon  salt,  scant. 


2  eggs,  beaten  separately. 


up  milk. 


%  cup  butter,  melted. 


Mix  flour,  baking-powder,  and  salt.  Beat  the  yolks,  and 
add  the  milk  and  melted  butter.  Put  the  two  mixtures 
together  quickly ;  add  the  whites  last.  Fill  muffin  pans 
two  thirds  full,  and  bake  fifteen  minutes  in  a  very  hot 
oven.  This  makes  eight  muffins.  If  for  tea,  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  to  the  flour.  Use  a  scant  cup  of 
milk  and  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  butter  if  you  prefer. 

Oatmeal  Biscuit.     (Miss  Barnes.) 

3  cups  boiling  water.  1  scant  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  cup  oatmeal. 

Pour  the  water  on  the  oatmeal ;  add  the  salt,  and  cook 
three  hours  in  a  double  boiler.  While  still  warm,  add  one 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  half  a  cup  of  sugar. 


Muffins. 


When  cool,  add  half  a  cup  of  yeast,  and  flour  to  make 
a  stiff  dough.  Let  it  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning 
bake  in  gem  pans  twenty  minutes  or  till  brown. 


Tea  Cakes, 


%  teaspoonful  «alt. 

1  egg- 

1  cup  milk. 

1  tablesDoonful  butter,  melted. 


2)^  cups  St.  Louis  flour. 

%  teaspoonful  soda  and 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

4  level  teaspoons  baking  powder. 

%  cup  sugar. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  gem  pans  or  cup.«. 
Add  one  cup  of  berries,  and  it  makes  a  delicious  berry 
cake. 

Cream  Muffins. 


1  pint  flour. 

3^  teaspoonful  salt. 

)^  teaspoonful  soda  and 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 

Bake  in  muffin  pans,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Yolks  of  2  eggs,  beaten  lightly. 
%  cup  cream  or  enough  to  make 

a  drop  batter. 
Whites  of  2  eggs  beaten  stiff. 


Tea  Cake  (Loaf). 


1  pint  flour. 

)^  teaspoonful  soda  and 
1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 
3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 
*/£  teaspoonful  salt. 
3  eggs,  yolks  beaten  and  mixed 
with 

Bake  in  a  brickloaf  pan,  in  a  hot  oven, 
hot  as  a  tea  cake. 


3  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 

1  cup  milk  (mixed  with  the  yolks 
and  sugar). 

2  tablespoonfuls  melted  butter. 
Whites  of  the  eggs  added  last. 


To  be  eaten 


Granulated  Wheat  Muffins. 

1  tablespoonful  sugar. 


\%_  cups  granulated  wheat  (Health 

Food  or  Arlington). 
)^>  teaspoonful  salt. 
2  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  hissing  hot  gem 
pans  twenty  minutes. 


1  scant  cup  milk, 
water. 


- 

90  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Rye  Muffins.     (Miss  Parloa.) 


1  cup  rye  flour,  or  sifted  rye  meal. 
3^  cup  sugar. 

teaspoonf  ui  salt. 


1  cup  white  flour. 

legg. 

1  cup  milk. 


3  level  teasp.    baking-powder. 

Mix  rye,  sugar,  salt,  flour,  and  baking-powder  thor- 
oughly. Beat  the  egg  ;  add  the  milk,  and  stir  quickly  into 
the  dry  mixture.  Bake  in  hot  gem  or  muffin  pans  twenty- 
five  minutes. 


Corn  Muffins.    (From  an  unknown  Friend.) 


\ 


1  cup  common  corn  meal. 

2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 


1  even  tablespoonf  ul  butter. 
5  cups  boiling  water. 


1  scant  teaspoonful  salt. 

Mix  at  night  the  meal,  sugar,  and  salt  in  the  top  of  the 
double  boiler  ;  add  the  butter  and  boiling  water,  stir  until 
smooth,  and  cook  an  hour.  Turn  into  a  mixing-bowl, 
and  pour  over  it  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  water  to  prevent  a 
crust  from  forming.  In  the  morning  beat  it  up  soft  and 
smooth.  Mix  one  cup  and  a  half  of  fine  yellow  corn 
flour,  one  cup  and  a  half  of  white  flour,  two  even  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  baking-powder,  and  stir  them  into  the  cooked 
meal.  Add  one  egg,  well  beaten.  Drop  the  mixture  into 
round  iron  gem  pans,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

To  make  corn  and  rye  muffins,  add,  in  the  morning, 

1  cup  yellow  corn  flour.  I         1  cup  common  flour. 

1  cup  rye  flour. 

Or  make  corn  and  whole-wheat  muffins  by  adding 

li|  cups  yellow  corn  flour.  K  CUP  common  flour. 

1  cup  whole-wheat  flour,  Frank- 
lin or  Arlington. 

These  are  delicious.  This  rale  makes  fifteen  muffins. 
•If  fewer  be  desired,  half  of  the  cooked  corn-meal  mixture 
may  be  used,  and  the  remainder  reserved  for  another 
baking.  But  in  this  case  do  not  forget  to  halve  the 


Corn  Cakes.  91 


dry  mixture  added  in  the  morning,  and  to  use  one  small 
egg- 
Apple  Johnny  Cake  (without  Eggs).     (Mrs.  Webb.) 


1  pint  white  meal. 

2  tablespoon! uls  sugar. 
5^>  teaspoonfnl  salt. 

>£  teaspoonful  soda  and 


1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 
4  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Milk  enough  to  mix  quite  soft. 
3  apples,  pared  and  sliced. 


Mix  in  the  order  given.     Bake  in  a  shallow  cake  pan 
thirty  minutes. 

Corn  Cake  (thin). 


1  cup  yellow  corn  meal. 
%  cup  sugar. 
}^  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  cup  flour. 


3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

Jegg. 

1  cup  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  melted  butter. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  two  Washington 
pie  tins,  spreading  the  mixture  thick  enough  to  half  fill 
the  pan. 

Sponge  Corn  Cake  (Sour  Milk). 
1  cup  flour.  Yolks  of  2  eggs. 


^2  cup  corn  meal, 
teaspoonful  salt, 
teaspoonful  soda, 
cup  sugar. 


White  of  1  egg. 

1  tablespoonful  butter,  melted- 

1  cup  sour  milk. 


Bake  in  a  shallow  round  pan  or  in  abrickloaf  pan.     Use 
the  other  white  of  egg  for  clearing  the  coffee. 

Sponge  Corn  Cake  (Sweet  Milk). 


1  cup  meal. 

%  cup  flour. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  teaspoonful  soda. 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar. 


1  tablespoonful  melted  butter 
1  tablespoonful  sugar. 
Yolks  of  2  eggs. 
White  of  1  egg. 
\%  cup  milk.1 


Bake  in  brickloaf  bread  pan  about  half  an  hour. 

1  3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder  may  be  used  instead  of  soda  and 
cream  of  tartar. 


92  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Spider  Corn  Cake  (Sour  Milk).    (Miss  Parloa.) 


%  cup  corn  meal. 
Flour  to  fill  the  cup. 
1  tablespoonf  ul  sugar. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 
%  teaspoonful  soda,  scant. 


legg. 

1  cup  sweet  milk. 

%  cup  sour  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 


Mix  the  meal,  flour,  sugar,  salt,  and  soda.  Beat  the 
egg :  add  half  of  the  sweet  milk,  and  all  the  sour  milk. 
Stir  this  into  the  dry  mixture.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  hot 
spider,  or  shallow  round  pan,  and  pour  the  mixture  into 
it.  Pour  the  other  half  cup  of  sweet  milk  over  the  top, 
but  do  not  stir  it  in.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  hot  oven. 

Corn  and  Rice  Muffins. 


1  pint  white  corn  meal. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 
1  cup  cold  boiled  rice. 


1  pint  sour  milk. 
1  egg. 

1  tablespoonful  melted  butter,  or 
drippings. 


1  teaspoonful  soda,  scant. 
Bake  in  muffin  pans  about  twenty  minutes. 

Hominy  and  Corn  Meal  Cakes.     (Mrs.  S.  S.  Ropes.) 

\  I  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine,  uncooked  hominy,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a  cup 
of  boiling  water.  Place  this  over  the  teakettle,  or  on  the 
back  of  the  stove  until  the  hominy  absorbs  all  the  water. 
Pour  one  cup  of  boiling  milk  on  one  scant  cup  of  corn 
meal;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  the  hominy. 
When  cooled,  add  two  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  sep- 
arately, and  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  baking-powder, 
Bake  in  hot,  buttered  gem  pans  twenty  minutes. 

Maryland  Corn  Cakes  (without  Soda).    (Mrs.  Upham.) 

Mix   one  cup   of  fine  white  sifted  meal,  one   even   table' 
spoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  saltspoonftd 


Corn  Cakes.  93 


of  salt.  Add  one  scant  cup  of  boiling  milk.  When  cooled, 
add  one  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  separately.  Bake  in 
stone  cups  about  thirty  minutes. 

Dodgers,  Dabs,  or  Corn  Meal  Puffs  (without  Soda). 
(Miss  Alice  Walcott.) 

Two  cups  of  fine  white  corn  meal,  scalded  with  boiling 
water  so  that  the  meal  is  all  wet  but  not  soft ;  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  milk;  when 
cold,  add  two  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separate!}'. 
The  batter  should  drop  easily  from  the  spoon,  not  be 
thin  enough  to  pour,  nor  stiff  enough  to  be  scraped  out. 
Have  your  pans  greased  and  hissing  hot,  and  the  oven  as 
hot  as  possible.  Bake  until  brown  and  puffy. 

Indian  Bannock  (without  Soda).    (4.  W.)        ^. 

1  cup  corn  meal.  1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar.  1  pint  boiling  milk. 

When  cool,  add  two  eggs,  beaten  separately.  Bake  In 
a  'shallow  .earthen  dish  in  a  very  hot  oven,  and  serve  in 
the  dish,  like  a  pudding. 


Hoe  Cake  (without  Soda). 


1  cup  white  corn  meal, 
teaspoonful  salt. 


Boiling  milk  or  water  enough  to 
scald  it. 


1  teaspoonful  sugar  (if  you  like). 

Make  it  thick  enough  not  to  spread  when  put  on  the 
griddle.  Grease  the  griddle  with  salt  pork,  drop  the  mix- 
ture on  with  a  large  spoon.  Pat  the  cakes  out  till  about 
half  an  inch  thick  ;  cook  them  slowly,  and  when  browned 
put  a  bit  of  butter  on  the  top  of  each  cake  and  turn  over. 
They  cannot  cook  too  long,  provided  they  do  not  burn. 
Sometimes  the  dough  is  put  on  in  one  large  cake,  and  as 
soon  as  browned  underneath  is  turned  over  upon  a  freshty 
greased  place ;  the  thin,  crisp  crust  is  peeled  off  with  a 
knife,  laid  on  a  hot  plate,  and  spread  with  butter,  and 


94  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

when  another  brown  crust  has  formed,  the  cake  is  turned 
again,  the  crust  is  removed  and  buttered,  and  so  on  until 
the  cake  is  all  browned.  These  crisp,  buttered  crusts  are 
served  piled  together  and  cut  in  sections. 

Rice  Crusts.    (Miss  Ward.) 

;  Cook  one  cup  of  cold  boiled  rice  in  the  double  boiler  in 
milk  enough  to  make  a  thin  mixture,  and  until  the  rice  is 
very  soft.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  a  little  salt,  one 
egg,  and  flour  enough  to  make  it  hold  together.  Spread 
on  the  pan,  having  the  mixture  one  third  of  an  inch  thick. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Split  and  eat  with  syrup. 

Rice  or  Hominy  Drop  Cakes. 

N  One  cup  of  boiled  hominy  or  rice,  and  one  egg.     If  the 

hominy  be  cold,  heat  in  a  farina  kettle  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  water,  and  stir  till  it  is  softened.  Beat  yolk  and 
white  separately ;  add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Drop  in 
tablespoonfuls  on  a  well-buttered  pan,  and  bake  brown  in 
a  hot  oven. 

Breakfast  Puffs,  or  Pop-overs. 


1  cup  flour. 

1  saltspoonful  salt. 


1  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  sep- 
arately.1 


1  cup  milk. 

Mix  the  salt  with  the  flour ;  add  part  of  the  milk  slowly, 
until  a  smooth  paste  is  formed  ;  add  the  remainder  of  the 
milk  with  the  beaten  yolk,  and  lastly  the  white  beaten  to 
a  stiff  froth.  Cook  in  hot  buttered  gem  pans  or  earthen 
cups  in  a  quick  oven  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  pufls  are 
brown  and  well  popped  over. 

Rye  Gems,  or  Shells  (without  Soda). 


%  cup  rye  meal. 

^  cup  flour. 

1  saltspoonful  salt. 


2  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  sugar. 

1  cup  milk. 


Mix  the  meal,  flour,  and  salt.     Beat  the  yolks  ;  add  the 
sugar  and  milk.     Stir  this  into  the  dry  mixture  ;  add  the 

1  The  egg  may  be  beaten  but  slightly,  without  separating,  and  then 
beaten  well  in  the  batter. 


Graham  Gems.  95 


whites,  beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  iron  gem  pans,  or  stone 
cops,  thirty  to  forty  minutes.  One  cup  of  mixed  rye  meal, 
white  com  meal,  and  whole-wheat  flowr,  in  about  equal  pro- 
portions, may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  This  receipt  makes 
six  gems. 

Whole-Wheat  or  Graham  Gems,  or  Puns.    (A.  W.) 


2  cops  of  whole-wheat  tar.  2  eggs,  heaten  separate!/. 

}£  tea*poonf  ul  salt.  1  cup  milk. 

1  tabJespoonful  sugar.  1  cup  water. 

• 
Mix  floor,  salt,  and  sugar.    Add  the  milk  to  the  beaten 

yolks,  then  the  water,  and  stir  this  into  the  dry  mixture. 
Add  the  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and  bake  in  hissing  hot  gem 
pans  thirty  minutes. 


Whole-Wheat  Crisps  (specially  good  for  Children).  < 

1  cup  rich  cream,  sweet  or  sour.    I  2  cups  fine  granulated  wheat  flour, 
%  cup  sugar.  or  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dougb. 


Knead  fifteen  minutes,  or  tin  stiff  enough  to  roll  out  thin 
as  a  wafer.  Cut  with  a  biscuit  cutter,  and  bake  on  un- 
gn  amd  tins  in  a  very  hot  oven.  The  sugar  will  sweeten 
the  sour  cream  sufficiently. 


Fine  Granulated  Wheat  Gems  (no  Yeast,  Soda,  nor  Eggs). 

1  cup  water.  1 1  saltspoonful  salt. 

1  cup  milk.  |  2>£  cups  fine  granulated  wheat. 

Stir  Hie  floor  slowly  into  the  liquid,  until  yon  have  a  drop 
batter.  Then  beat  as  rapidly  and  as  long  as  your  arm 
wffl  aUow.  Have  the  iron  gem  pans  hissing  hot.  and  well 
buttered.  ¥111  quickly,  giving  the  batter  a  brisk  beating 
several  times  during  the  filling,  and  bake  at  once  in  a  very 
hot 


96  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Maryland,  or  Beaten  Biscuit.    (Mrs.   Towne.) 

1  quart  flour.  I         %  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  cup  lard.  |         1  cup  cold  water. 

Rub  the  lard  and  salt  into  the  flour,  and  mix  with  cold 
water  to  a  very  stiff  dough.  Knead  ten  minutes,  or  until 
well  mixed  ;  then  beat  hard  with  a  biscuit  beater  or  heavy 
rolling-pin,  turning  the  mass  over  and  over  until  it  begins 
to  blister  and  looks  light  and  puffy,  or  "  till,  pulling  off  a 
piece  quickly,  it  will  give  a  sharp,  snapping  sound."  When 
in  this  condition,  pull  off  a  small  piece  suddenly,  form 
it  into  a  round  biscuit,  then  pinch  off  a  bit  from  the  top. 
Turn  over  and  press  with  the  thumb,  leaving  a  hollow  in 
the  centre.  Put  the  biscuit  some  distance  apart  in  the 
pan.  Prick  with  a  fork.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  quick 
oven.  They  should  be  light,  of  a  fine,  even  grain,  and 
crack  at  the  edges  like  our  crackers.  In  Maryland  no 
young  lady's  education  was  formerly  considered  finished 
until  she  had  learned  the  art  of  making  beaten  biscuit. 


Graham  Wafers. 


1  pint  white  flour. 
1  pint  Graham  flour. 
%  cup  butter. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 
Cold  water  enough  to  make  a  stiff 
dough. 


yz  cup  sugar. 
Roll  out  very  thin,  cut  in  squares,  and  bake  quickly,, 


Wafer  Biscuit  (for  Invalids). 
White  of  1  egg. 


1  pint  flour. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  saltspoonful  salt. 


Warm  new  milk  enough  to  make 
a  stiff  dough. 


Mix  salt  with  the  flour  ;  rub  in  the  butter  ;  add  the  beaten 
white  of  egg,  and  milk  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough. 
Beat  half  an  hour  with  a  rolling-pin,  without  ceasing. 
Break  off  a  little  piece  of  dough  at  a  time,  and  roll  it  out 
as  thin  as  paper.  Cut  into  large  rounds.  Prick  with  a 
small  wooden  skewer,  and  bake  quickly  without  burning. 


Pancakes.  97 


Gluten  Wafers. 

Half  a  cup  of  sweet  cream  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt. 
Stir  in  gluten  enough  to  make  a  stiff  dough.  Knead  and 
roll  out  very  thin.  Cut  into  rounds,  and  bake  a  delicate 
brown  on  an  ungreased  tin.  Gluten  is  a  preparation  of 
-jrheat  flour  without  the  starch. 


Waffles,  Griddle-Cakes,  Pancakes,  etc. 

The  names  pancakes,  fritters,  flap-jacks,  slap-jacks, 
batter-cakes,  griddle-cakes,  slappers,  etc.,  are  applied  in- 
discriminately in  different  localities. 

Pancakes  were  formerly  a  kind  of  muffin  mixture,  made 
a  little  stiffer  than  a  drop  batter,  but  not  stiff  enough  to 
roll  out,  and  were  dropped  from  a  spoon  into  hot  fat,  and 
fried  like  doughnuts.  But,  recently,  the  name  has  been 
applied  to  a  very  thin  batter  made  usually  without  soda, 
cooked  one  cake  at  a  time  on  a  small  well-buttered  frying- 
pan,  and  turned  like  a  griddle- cake ;  then  buttered,  and 
rolled  over  and  over,  or  spread  with  sugar  and  jell}',  and 
then  rolled.  In  u  ye  olden  time"  good  cooks  were  sup- 
posed to  have  the  knack  of  tossing  the  pan  so  skilfully 
that  the  cake  would  turn  over  itself ;  but  this  is  now  one 
of  the  lost  arts. 

For  convenience  and  clearness,  the  following  names  will 
be  used  in  this  work  :  — 

Griddle- Cakes :  any  kind  of  small,  thin  batter-cakea 
cooked  on  a  griddle. 

Pancakes :  larger,  thin  batter-cakes,  made  without  soda, 
and  cooked  in  a  small  frying-pan. 

French  or  Rolled  Pancakes :  the  same  as  the  preceding, 
buttered,  sweetened,  and  rolled. 

Fried  Drop  Cakes  or  Fried  Muffins :  any  muffin  mixture, 
dropped  from  a  spoon  into  deep  hot  fat. 

Fritters:  a  thinner  mixture  made  without  soda,  either 
plain  or  with  meat,  fish,  or  fruit,  and  cooked  by  dropping 
into  deep  hot  fat. 

7 


98  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Waffles  and  Griddle-Cakes. 

A  waffle  iron  is  made  of  two  corrugated  iron  griddles 
fitted  and  fastened  together  at  one  side  with  a  hinge,  and 
revolving  in  an  iron  frame,  which  is  to  be  placed  over  the 
fire.  It  may  be  either  circular  or  oblong.  Each  griddle 
is  divided  into  compartments,  which  are  usually  grooved 
into  diamonds,  hearts,  rounds,  etc. 

The  iron  should  be  placed  over  the  fire,  heated  on  each 
side,  and  greased  thoroughly,  as  it  is  very  hard  to  clean 
if  the  cakes  stick.  Put  a  piece  of  salt  pork  on  a  fork,  or 
put  a  small  piece  of  butter  in  a  clean  cloth,  and  rub  all 
over  both  griddles.  The  heat  will  melt  the  butter  and  let 
just  enough  of  it  go  through  the  cloth.  This  is  better 
than  to  put  it  on  with  a  knife.  Close  the  griddles  and 
turn  them ;  this  causes  the  fat  to  run  evenly  over  them. 
Open,  and  pour  the  waffle  mixture  into  the  centre  of  the 
half  over  the  fire,  or  put  a  spoonful  in  each  compartment, 
filling  them  about  two  thirds  full.  Cover,  and  cook  one 
minute  on  one  side,  then  turn  and  cook  a  little  longer 
on  the  other.  Any  kind  of  griddle-cake  mixture,  with 
the  addition  of  the  melted  butter  to  make  them  crisp, 
may  be  cooked  on  a  waffle-iron,  if  one  cares  to  take  the 
extra  trouble. 


Waffles. 


1  pint  flour. 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 


3  eggs. 

13^  cups  milk. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  butter,  melted. 


Mix  in  the  order  given ;  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  the 
eggs  with  the  milk,  then  the  melted  butter,  and  the  whites 
last.  Serve  with  butter,  or  sjTup,  or  caramel  sauce. 


Lemon  Syrup  (served  with  Waffles). 

1  cup  sugar.  1  teaspoonful  butter. 

%  cup  water.  1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 

Boil  the  sugar  with  the  water  until  it  thickens  slightly. 


Griddle- Calces. 


Add  the  butter  and  lemon  juice.     Serve  as  soon  as  the 
butter  is  melted. 

Raised  Waffles. 

Mix  at  night  one  pint  of  milk,  one  third  of  a  cup  of  yeast, 
and  one  pint  of  flour.  In  the  morning  add  half  a  teaspoon- 
fid  of  salt,  two  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  separately,  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter. 

Use  only  one  egg,  make  the  batter  a  trifle  thinner,  and 
fry  on  the  griddle,  and  you  have  Flannel  Cakes. 

Either  of  these  receipts  may  be  varied  by  using  half  or 
one  third  fine  white  corn  meal  or  Graham  flour  with  the 
white  flour.  If  intended  for  tea,  mix  in  the  forenoon. 


To  Cook  Griddle-Cakes. 

A  soapstone  griddle,  which  needs  no  greasing,  is  the 
best ;  but  of  whatever  material,  let  it  be  large  enough  to 
hold  seven  cakes.  Let  it  heat  while  you  are  making  the 
cakes.  If  an  iron  griddle  be  used,  put  a  piece  of  salt  pork 
two  inches  square  on  a  fork ;  and  when  the  griddle  is 
hot  enough  for  the  fat  to  sizzle,  rub  it  all  over  with 
the  pork.  Just  grease  it ;  do  not  leave  little  pools  of  fat 
on  the  edge  to  burn,  and  smoke  the  cakes.  Take  up 
a  tablespoonful  of  the  mixture,  and  pour  it  from  the  end 
of  the  spoon.  The  mixture  should  hiss  or  sizzle  as  it 
touches  the  griddle.  Put  one  in  the  centre  and  six 
around  the  outside.  By  the  time  you  have  the  seventh 
cake  on,  the  first  one  will  be  full  of  bubbles  and  ready 
to  turn ;  and  when  the  seventh  is  turned,  the  first  will 
have  stopped  puffing  and  be  done.  Wipe  the  griddle 
with  a  dry  cloth,  and  grease  again  after  each  baking. 
Turn  your  griddle  often,  bringing  each  edge  of  it  in 
turn  over  the  hottest  part  of  the  stove,  that  the  cakes  may 
cook  evenly.  Always  mix  waffles  or  griddle-cakes  in 
a  bowl  with  a  lip,  and  beat  up  the  mixture  well  between 
each  baking. 


ioo  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Griddle-Cakes. 


1  pint  flour. 

}•£  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 


1  scant  pint  sour  milk  or  cream. 

2  eggs,  well  beaten. 


1  teaspoonf  ul  soda. 

Crush,  measure,  and  sift  the  soda  and  salt  into  the 
flour.  Mix  thoroughly.  Add  the  milk,  and  beat  well ; 
then  add  the  beaten  yolks,  and  lastly,  the  whites,  beaten 
stiff.  Bake  on  a  hot,  well-greased  griddle  ;  turn  when 
full  of  bubbles,  and  bake  on  the  other  side  till  they  stop 
puffing.  Use  one  half  or  one  third  fine  corn  meal  or  Gra- 
ham flour,  to  make  a  variety. 

To  make  Huckleberry  Griddle- Cakes,  add  one  pint  of 
berries,  picked  over  and  rolled  in  flour. 

Some  persons  prefer  to  mix  the  sour  milk  with  the 
flour,  and  let  the  mixture  stand  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing add  the  salt,  soda,  and  eggs. 

Sour  milk  is  the  best  for  griddle-cakes,  and  when  thick- 
ened just  right,  the  cakes  are  very  good  without  the  eggs. 

Race  or  Hominy  Griddle-Cakes  (no  Soda). 


1  cup  sweet  milk. 

1  cup  warm  boiled  rice,  or  fine 

hominy. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 


2  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten 

separately. 

1  tablespoonful  melted  butter. 
Flour    enough   to    make    a   thin 


batter. 
Bake  either  as  griddle-cakes  or  waffles. 

Bread  Griddle-Cakes. 

1  pint  stale   (not    dried)   bread- 1     1  pint  milk,  scalded, 
crumbs.  |      1  tablespoonful  butter. 

Pour  the  hot  milk  over  the  crumbs,  add  the  butter,  and 
soak  over  night  or  till  the  crumbs  are  softened.  Then 
rub  through  a  squash  strainer ;  add 

2  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten  I      %  teaspoonful  salt. 
separately.  2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

1  cup  flour.  I      Cold  milk  to  thin  it  if  needed. 

Bake  slowly  :  spread  with  butter  and  sugar,  and  serve  hot. 


Buckwheat   Cakes.  IOI 

Raised  Graham  Griddle- Cakes. 

Mix  one  pint  of  milk,  scalded  and  cooled,  one  cup  of 
whole-wheat  flour,  one  cup  of  white  flour,  one  fourth  of  a  cup 
of  liquid  yeast.  Let  it  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  mo- 
lasses, one  saltspoonful  of  soda.  If  too  thick,  add  a  little 
warm  water.  These  are  more  wholesome  than  buckwheat 
cakes. 

Buckwheat  Cakes. 

Pour  one  pint  of  boiling  water  on  half  a  cup  of  fine 
corn  meal;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Mix  well, 
and  when  lukewarm  add  half  a  cup  of  white  flour,  one 
cup  of  buckwheat  flour,  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  yeast.  Beat 
vigorously.  Let  it  rise  over  night.  In  the  morning  stir 
down,  and  beat  again.  When  risen  and  ready  to  bake, 
add  one  saltspoonful  of  soda,  sifted  through  a  fine  strainer. 
Beat  again,  and  fry  in  large  cakes. 

Buckwheat  cakes,  even  if  not  sour,  usually  require  the 
addition  of  soda  just  before  baking,  to  make  them  light  and 
tender.  But  when  in  their  best  estate,  they  are  far  from 
perfect  food.  They  should  be  eaten  only  in  very  cold 
weather,  and  but  seldom  even  then.  They  are  better  and 
brown  better  when  made  with  boiling  milk  instead  of 
water. 

Corn  Meal  Slappers,  or  Griddle-Cakes  (no  Soda). 


1  pint  corn-meal. 
1  teaspoonful  butter. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 
1  teaspoonful  sugar. 


Pour  into  this  mixture  boiling  milk  or  water  enough 
to  wet  the  meal.  When  cool,  add  two  eggs,  well  beaten, 
and  cold  milk  enough  to  make  a  very  thin  batter. 

Pease  Griddle-Cakes. 

Take  green  pease  which  have  been  boiled,  but  are  too 
hard  to  eat  as  a  vegetable.  Drain  very  dry,  then  mash, 


IO2  -The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  rub  the  pulp  through  the  squash  strainer.  Or  boil 
one  cup  of  split  pease  till  very  tender,  letting  the  water 
boil  away.  Drain,  mash,  and  rub  through  a  squash 
strainer,  and  use  the  same  as  the  squash  in  squash  griddle- 
cakes. 

Squash  Griddle-Cakes. 


1  cup  boiling  milk. 
1  cup  sifted  squash. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  sugar. 


%  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 

1  egg. 

3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

1  cup  flour. 


Pour  the  boiling  milk  into  the  squash ;  add  the  butter, 
sugar,  and  salt.  When  cool,  add  the  egg,  well  beaten, 
then  the  baking-powder,  mixed  and  sifted  with  the  flour. 
If  too  thin,  use  more  flour ;  and  if  too  thick,  add  a  little 
milk.  The  dry  mealy  squash  is  the  best. 


French  Pancakes  (no  Soda).     (Miss  Parloa.) 


V  *      3  eggs. 


1  cup  milk. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 


1  teaspoonful  sugar. 

%  cup  flour. 

%  tablespoonful  salad  oil. 


Beat  the  yolks  and  whites  separately.  Add  the  milk, 
salt,  and  sugar  to  the  }7olks.  Pour  one  third  of  this  mix- 
ture on  the  flour,  and  stir  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the 
remainder  of  the  milk,  and  beat  well ;  then  add  the  oil. 
Heat  and  butter  a  small  frying-pan,  and  pour  into  it 
enough  of  the  mixture  to  cover  the  pan ;  when  brown, 
turn  and  brown  the  other  side.  Spread  with  butter  and 
sugar  or  jelly ;.  roll  up,  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar. 

Fried  Drop  Cakes. 

The  fat  for  fried  cakes  should  be  clean,  new  fat,  half 
lard  and  half  clarified  beef  drippings.  By  new  fat  is 
meant  fat  that  has  not  been  used  for  meat  or  fish,  or  be- 
come browned  by  previous  frying.  The  same  fat  may 
be  used  several  times  by  clarifying  with  several  thin 
slices  of  raw  potato,  and  straining  through  a  fine  strainer 
after  each  frying.  "\Vhen  it  becomes  too  brown  for  any 


Fried,  Muffins.  103 


flour  mixtures,  it  will  answer  for  croquettes  or  fish  balls. 
It  should  be  very  hot,  and  still,  not  bubbling;  but  not 
as  hot  as  for  mixtures  which  have  been  previously  cooked. 
The  surest  way  is  to  fry  a  bit  of  the  mixture.  It  should 
rise  at  once  to  the  surface,  with  much  spluttering  of  the 
fat,  swell,  and  begin  to  brown  on  the  under  side.  Drop 
cakes  will  usually  turn  over  themselves,  but  doughnuts 
and  fritters  should  be  turned.  They  should  be  cooked  an 
even  golden  brown,  and  the  fat  be  kept  at  the  right  tem- 
perature by  moving  the  kettle  farther  from  or  nearer  to 
the  fire.  Try  them  with  a  fork,  and  if  it  come  out  clean, 
they  are  done. 

Drain  each  cake  over  the  hot  fat,  and  when  they  cease  to 
drip,  put  them  in  a  squash  strainer  placed  in  a  pan  on  the 
back  of  the  stove,  or  drain  on  soft  brown  paper.  Change 
the  first  cooked  to  another  pan  when  the  next  are  ready 
to  be  taken  out.  If  the  fat  be  not  hot  enough,  or  if  there 
be  too  much  soda,  doughnuts  will  absorb  the  fat.  The 
alkali  in  them  unites  with  the  grease,  as  it  does  in  making 
soap.  The  eggs  will  prevent  the  cakes  from  soaking  in  the 
fat,  and  it  is  healthful  and  more  economical  to  use  them. 


Fried  Flour  Muffins.     (Miss  I.  A .  Maynard.) 


1  egg. 

%  cup  sugar, 
cup  milk. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 
Flour   enough    to    make  a   stiff 
batter. 


3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

Mix  salt  and  baking-powder  with  two  cups  of  flour. 
Beat  the  egg  very  light ;  add  the  sugar,  and  beat  again. 
Add  the  milk,  then  the  flour,  with  enough  more,  if  needed, 
to  make  a  stiff  batter.  Drop  from  a  spoon  into  hot  fat. 

Fried  Corn  Meal  Cakes.     (Miss  Ward.) 

One  pint  of  milk,  poured  boiling  hot  upon  one  cup  of 
corn  meal;  add  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Let  it  stand  all  night,  or  till  well 
swollen  ;  then  add  two  eggs  and  half  a  cup  of  flour.  Fry 
in  hot  lard. 


IO4  Tfie  Boston   Cook  Book, 


Fried  Rye  Muffins. 


%  cup  rye  meal. 

%  cup  flour. 

^  teaspoonful  soda  and 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 


1  tablespoon  ful  sugar. 
1  saltspoouful  salt. 
1  egg. 
y%  cup  milk. 


3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  drop  from  a  small  table- 
spoon into  hot  fat.  Cook  until  the  muffins  will  not  stick 
when  tried  with  a  fork. 

Fried  Rye  Muffins  (Sour  Milk). 


1  pint  sour  milk. 
)^  cup  of  molasses. 
1  saltspoonful  salt. 


1  saltspoonful  cinnamon. 

1  teaspoonful  soda. 

2  eggs. 


Rye  flour  to  make  a  stiff  drop  batter.  Fry  as  in  the 
preceding  rule. 

Sour  Milk  Doughnuts.    (Mrs.  Henderson.) 

Two  eggs,  beaten  light,  one  cup  of  sugar,  three  even  table- 
spoonfuls  of  melted  butter,  one  cup  of  sour  milk  (or  if  sweet 
milk  be  used,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar) ,  four 
cups  of  flour,  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  each  of  cinnamon  and  salt.  Enough  more  flour  to 
make  just  soft  enough  to  roll  out.  Mix  the  dough  rather 
soft  at  first.  Have  the  board  well  floured,  and  the  fat 
heating.  Roll  only  a  large  spoonful  at  first.  Cut  into 
rings  with  an  open  cutter.  Mix  the  trimmings  with 
another  spoonful.  Work  it  slightly  till  well  floured,  and 
roll  again.  Roll  and  cut  all  out  before  frying,  as  that 
will  demand  your  whole  attention.  Remember  that  the 
fat  should  be  hot  enough  for  the  dough  to  rise  to  the 
top  instantly. 

Doughnuts,  No.  2. 


1  quart  flour. 

%  cup  sugar. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  teaspoonful  soda. 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar. 


1  saltspoonful  cinnamon  or  nut- 
meg. 

1  egg. 

Milk  enough  to  moisten  to  a  stiff 
dough. 


Doughnuts. 


105 


Doughnuts,  No.  3. 


1  egg. 

1  cup  sugar. 

I  tablespoocful  melted  butter. 

1  cup  milk. 

\\2  teaspoonf ul  salt. 


%  teaspoonful  soda  and 
1  teaspoonful  weam  of  tartar,  or 
4  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
1  saltspoonfnl  cinnamon. 
Flour  enough  to  roll  out. 


Raised  Doughnuts. 


1  pint  risen  milk  bread  dough. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  eggs. 


1  tablespoonful  melted  butter. 

Spice  to  taste. 

Flour  enough  to  roll  out 


These  are  more  wholesome  than  those  made  with  soda. 


Crullers.     (A.  W.) 


1  tablespoonful  melted  tutter. 

2  heaping  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 

1  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  sep- 
arately. 


%  saltspoonful  cinnamon  or  mace. 
%  saltspoonful  salt. 
Flour  enough  to  roll  out. 


Roll  the  dough  one  fourth  of  an  inch  thick.     Cut  in 
rectangular  pieces,  two  and  a  half  by  three  and  a  half 
inches ;   then  make  five  in- 
cisions  lengthwise,    cutting 
to  within   one  third  of  an 


FIG.  5.    Cruller. 


Pro.  6.     Cruller  after  Folding. 


inch  at  each  end  Take  up  every  other  strip,  fold  each 
strip  together  slightly  in  the  middle,  and  drop  them  into 
hot  fat. 


lo6  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Wonders,  or  Cheats. 

Beat  one  egg ;  add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  enough 
flour  to  make  a  very  stiff  batter.  Roll  out  as  thin  as  a 
wafer,  cut  with  large  round  cutter,  and  fry  one  minute  in 
hot  fat.  Serve  with  honey  or  syrup,  or  with  cream  and 
jelly,  or  any  delicate  pudding  sauce. 

Henriettes. 


1  egg,  yolk  and  white  beaten  sep- 
arately. 
%  cup  cream. 
1  saltspoonful  salt. 


1  saltspoonful  baking-powder. 
%  saltspoonful  cinnamon. 
1  teaspoonf ul  wine  or  brandy. 
Flour  enough  to  roll  out. 


Roll  as  thin  as  a  wafer,  and  cut  with  a  pastry  j agger 
into  small  squares  or  diamonds.  Fry  in  boiling  lard. 
Drain,  and  sprinkle  with  powdered  sugar.  Or  add  less 
flour,  make  a  thick,  stiff  batter  instead  of  a  dough,  and 
press  the  batter  through  a  pastry  tube  into  boiling  lard, 
making  rings  or  any  shape  preferred. 

Cinci,  or  Rags. 

1  cup  flour.  I         %  cup  boiling  water. 

1  saltspoonful  salt.  1  egg. 

Pour  the  boiling  water  gradually  upon  the  flour  and  salt, 
and  stir  to  a  smooth  paste  ;  cool,  add  the  egg,  and  beat 
well.  Press  through  a  pastry  tube  into  hot  lard.  Drain, 
and  sprinkle  with  sugar. 

Fritter  Batter  (for  Oysters,  Clams,  or  Fruit). 

Yolks  of  two  eggs,  beaten  well ;  add  half  a  cup  of  milk  or 
water,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  olive  oil,  one  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  and  one  cup  of  flour,  or  enough  to  make  it  almost  a 
drop  batter.  When  ready  to  use,  add  the  whites  of  the 
eggs,  beaten  ver}^  stiff.  If  intended  for  fruit,  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  sugar  to  the  batter.  If  for  clams,  tripe,  or  meat, 


lof 


add  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  or  vinegar.     This  bat- 
ter will  keep  several  days. 

Oyster  Fritters.  —  Boil  the  oysters  till  the  liquor  flows 
freely.  Drain,  strain  the  liquor,  and  use  it  to  make  a  bat- 
ter, as  in  the  preceding  rule.  Dip  each  oyster  in  the 
batter  and  fry  until  brown  in  hot  fat. 

Clam  Fritters.  —  Drain  the  clams,  and  chop  the  hard 
part.  Use  the  liquor  to  make  a  fritter  batter.  Add  the 
clams  and  fry  by  small  spoonfuls  in  hot  fat.  Clams  in  the 
shell  should  be  steamed  and  dressed.  Drain,  and  dip  each 
whole  clam  into  the  batter.  If  large  and  tough,  chop  the 
hard  part,  and  use  the  same  as  raw  clams. 

Apple  Fritters.  —  Core  and  pare  three  or  four  apples, 
but  do  not  break  them.  Cut  them  in  slices  one  third  of 
an  inch  thick,  leaving  the  opening  in  the  centre.  Sprinkle 
with  sugar,  lemon,  and  spice.  Dip  each  slice  in  the  fritter 
batter  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  sprinkle  with  pow- 
dered sugar. 

Vegetables  for  fritters,  such  as  celery,  salsify,  or  parsnip, 
should  be  boiled  till  tender,  then  drained  and  cut  into 
small  pieces  ;  then  stir  them  into  the  fritter  batter. 

Swedish  Timbale  Cups.  —  Make  one  half  the  recipe  for 
Fritter  Batter,  without  separating  the  eggs,  put  the  batter 
in  a  cup,  heat  the  timbale  iron  in  hot  fat,  then  lower  it 
into  the  batter  about  one  inch,  turn  it  partly  over  as  you 
take  it  out,  plunge  it  into  deep  hot  fat,  and  when  browned 
slightly,  remove,  drain,  and  remove  cup  from  the  iron. 

Parmesan  Fritters,  for  Soup.  —  Boil  four  tablespoons  of 
water  (or  five  of  milk)  with  one  rounded  tablespoon  of 
butter  and  a  pinch  of  salt.  Stir  in  quickly  one  third  of  a 
cup  of  flour ;  when  well  mixed,  remove ;  add  three  table- 
spoons grated  Parmesan ;  cool,  and  add  three  unbeaten 
eggs,  reserving  one  white.  Beat  well,  and  drop  in  bean- 
like  bits  from  a  teaspoon  into  deep  hot  fat.  Cook  till  a 
light  brown,  drain,  and  serve  with  cream  soups. 


The  Boston  Cook  Book, 


OATMEAL,   INDIAN   CORN,   AND    OTHER 
GRAINS   USED   AS   FOOD. 

Oatmeal  is  highly  nutritious,  being  richer  in  nitrogen 
than  any  other  grain  ;  but  as  it  does  not  contain  a  tough, 
adhesive  gluten,  like  wheat,  it  is  not  easily  made  into  fer- 
mented bread.  Its  nitrogenous  matter  resembles  casein 
more  than  gluten,  and  is  called  avenin  (from  avena,  the 
oat).  It  is  used  as  a  mush  or  porridge,  eaten  with  sugar 
and  milk.  It  is  rich  in  food  for  muscle  and  brain,  useful 
for  children  and  laboring  people,  but  irritating  to  many  . 
people  whose  digestive  powers  are  weak. 

Groats,  or  Grits,  are  oats  from  which  the  outer  husk  and 
inner  flinty  cuticle  are  removed. 

Indian  Corn  is  used  in  many  forms.  Some  varieties 
which  contain  a  large  proportion  of  sugar,  are  eaten  green 
from  the  cob  as  a  vegetable.  The  whole  grains,  hulled, 
are  eaten  as  samp  ;  broken  grains  of  various  sizes,  as 
hominy ;  the  ground  grains,  as  either  coarse  or  fine  meal. 
Meal  grows  musty  very  quickly  when  ground  by  the  old 
process,  owing  to  the  moisture  of  the  corn  and  the  heat  of 
the  stones.  In  the  new-process,  or  granulated,  meal  the 
corn  is  first  dried  for  two  years,  then  ground  into  coarse 
grains  like  sugar.  Indian  corn  is  also  used  in  the  form  of 
a  very  fine  powder,  called  cornstarch.  Corn  meal,  when 
cooked,  is  best  made  into  small  loaves  or  cakes  and  eaten 
hot.  It  is  rich  in  nitrogen,  and  contains  more  fat  than 
the  other  grains.  This  causes  it  to  attract  the  ox}'gen 
from  the  air,  and  spoil  rapidly.  It  should  be  purchased 
in  small  quantities.  It  is  better  adapted  to  strong  labor- 
ing people,  as  it  is  very  heating  for  persons  with  weak 
digestion. 


Cereals.  109 


Rye  meal  and  flour  are  used,  more  especially  in  New 
England,  in  the  form  of  bread  and  mush.  Rye  is  sweeter 
than  wheat,  and  makes  a  moist  bread  which  can  be  kept 
for  some  time  without  becoming  hard  and  unpalatable. 
Rye  should  be  purchased  in  small  quantities,  kept  in  a  cool, 
dry  place,  sifted  and  examined  thoroughly  before  using. 

Barley  is  used  in  soups  and  sometimes  in  gruels.  It 
cannot  be  made  into  good  bread,  as  it  has  too  little  gluten. 
s  It  is  nutritious,  being  rich  in  phosphates.  It  contains 
starch  and  mucilage,  and,  in  the  form  of  gruel,  makes  a 
soothing  drink  in  fevers.  The  husk  is  removed,  the 
grains  are  ground  and  polished,  and  then  it  is  termed 
pearl  barley.  Barley  crystals  or  flakes  and  granulated 
barley  are  also  used. 

Buckwheat  has  less  flesh-forming  and  more  heat-giving 
elements  than  wheat.  It  is  therefore  suitable  only  when 
used  in  cold  weather  and  by  those  who  labor  hard  or  exer- 
cise freely.  It  is  used  principally  in  the  form  of  griddle- 
cakes. 

j        Rice  contains  very  little  of  the  flesh-forming  element 
(    It  has  more  starch  and  less  fat  than  any  other  grain.     It 
is  cheap,  and  is  largely  used  by  people  in  very  hot  cli- 
mates.    It  should  always  be  used  with  milk,  eggs,  or 
some  fatty  substance.     Rice  is  easily  digested. 

Oatmeal  Mush. 

One  cup  of  B.  B.  oatmeal,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  to 
a  scant  quart  of  boiling  water.  Put  the  meal  and  salt  in 
the  top  of  the  double  boiler  ;  add  the  boiling  water.  Place 
the  upper  boiler  on  the  stove,  and  boil  rapidly  eight  or  ten 
minutes,  stirring  occasionally  with  a  fork.  Then  place  it 
over  the  hot  water,  and  cook  from  forty  to  sixty  minutes  if 
liked  dry,  from  two  to  three  hours  if  liked  very  soft.  Re- 
move the  cover  just  before  serving,  and  stir  with  a  fork  to 
let  the  steam  escape,  to  dry  it  off.  Served  with  baked 
apples  and  sugar  and  cream. 

Oatmeal  comes  in  three  grades.  B.  B.  is  the  whole  oat 
with  the  outer  husk  removed.  It  is  less  pasty  than  the 


no  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

finer  grades.  The  Scotch  consider  the  coarse  oatmeal  the 
best,  the  finer  kinds  being  only  suitable  for  children  and 
invalids. 

Oatmeal,  rice,  or  any  mush  that  contains  much  starch, 
is  more  easily  digested  if  it  is  masticated,  and  mixed  with 
the  saliva.  When  eaten  as  a  soft  porridge  and  still  fur- 
ther thinned  with  milk,  if  it  be  swallowed  whole,  the  saliva 
has  no  chance  to  do  its  part,  and  the  whole  process  of  the 
digestion  of  the  starch  is  left  for  the  intestines.  The  meal 
should  be  thoroughly  cooked,  stiff,  and  dry,  rather  than 
thin. 

Hominy,  cracked  wheat,  and  granulated  wheat  are  cooked 
in  the  same  way,  using  only  three  cups  of  boiling  water 
instead  of  one  quart. 

The  cracked  wheat  may  be  poured  into  a  mould  wet  with 
cold  water,  and  when  jellied  eaten  cold  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

Whole  wheat  requires  jive  cups  of  boiling  water  to  one 
cup  of  wheat,  and  should  cook  six  hours. 

Hasty  Pudding,  or  Indian  Meal  Mush. 

Put  one  quart  of  water  on  to  boil.  Mix  one  pint  of  corn 
meal,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
with  one  pint  of  cold  milk.  Stir  this  gradually  into  the 
boiling  water  and  boil  half  an  hour,  stirring  often.  Eat  it 
hot,  with  milk,  and  only  in  cold  winter  weather. 

Fried  Hasty  Pudding. 

jook  as  above  and  pour  it  into  a  brickloaf  pan ;  when 
cool,  cut  into  three-quarter  inch  slices.  Dip  them  in  flour, 
and  brown  each  side  in  hot  fat  in  a  frying-pan.  Or  dip 
in  crumbs,  egg,  and  again  in  crumbs,  and/ry  in  deep  fat. 

Any  of  these  mushes  may  be  fried  the  same  way. 
When  eaten  with  bacon,  they  make  a  nice  relish  for 
breakfast. 


Tea.  in 


BEVERAGES. 


Tea. 

THERE  are  three  varieties  of  the  tea-plant ;  both  black 
and  green  tea  can  be  prepared  from  them  all.  Green 
tea  is  made  from  }*oung  leaves  steamed,  roasted,  and 
dried  quickly  on  copper  plates.  Black  tea  is  made  from 
leaves  which  have  been  exposed  to  the  air  ten  or  twelve 
hours  before  roasting.  The  action  of  the  air  upon  the 
leaves  during  this  long  exposure  causes  the  dark  color. 
Green  tea  gives  up  less  of  its  juices  in  drying,  and  this 
accounts  for  its  energetic  action  on  the  nervous  system. 

The  tea-leaf  contains  the  largest  amount  of  nutritive 
matter  of  any  plant  used  as  human  food,  though  only 
a  small  portion  of  it  is  extracted  by  our  common  method 
of  making  tea.  There  is  a  large  proportion  of  casein  in 
the  leaves.  Many  of  the  savage  tribes  of  Tartaiy  boil  the 
leaves  with  soda,  and  eat  them  with  salt  and  butter.  But 
in  our  method  of  using  tea  as  a  beverage  merely,  we  use 
such  a  comparatively  small  quantity  that  the  amount  of 
nutriment  is  very  little ;  its  chief  value  being  the  sense 
of  warmth  and  comfort  that  it  gives.  It  excites  the  brain 
to  increased  activity,  and  produces  wakefulness  ;  hence  it 
is  useful  to  students  and  night- workers.  It  retards  the 
action  of  the  natural  functions,  causes  less  waste,  and,  to 
a  certain  extent,  saves  food.  For  this  reason,  when  not 
used  in  excess,  it  is  suited  to  poor  people,  whose  supplies 
of  substantial  food  are  scanty  ;  and  to  old  persons,  whose 
powers  of  digestion  and  whose  bodily  substance  have 
begun  to  fail.  It  should  not  be  used  early  in  che  morning, 
as  the  body  needs  immediate  nourishment  in  a  larger 
quantity ;  and  it  should  at  all  times  be  taken  moderately, 
both  as  to  quantit}'  and  strength. 


112  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  water  should  be  freshly  boiled.  Scald  and  heat 
the  teapot,  which  should  be  of  earthen  or  china,  never  of 
tin.  Allow  one  teaspoonful  of  tea  for  one  cup  of  boiling 
water.  Reduce  the  proportion  of  tea  when  several  cups 
are  required.  Put  the  tea  in  a  strainer,  pour  through  it 
half  a  cup  of  boiling  water  to  cleanse  the  grounds.  Then 
put  the  tea  in  the  teapot ;  pour  on  the  boiling  water ; 
cover  closely  and  place  it  where  it  will  keep  hot,  but 
not  boil,  for  five  minutes.  If  cold  or  lukewarm  water  be 
used  in  making  tea,  the  thein,  or  nitrogenous  substance, 
will  not  be  obtained. 

In  boiling  tea  or  allowing  the  leaves  to  remain  long  in 
the  tea,  by  repeated  steeping,  the  fragrant  aroma  is  wasted 
and  the  tannin  is  extracted,  which  may  cause  gastric  dis- 
orders to  those  who  drink  it.  Never  make  tea  in  a 
tin  teapot,  as  the  tannic  acid  acts  upon  the  metal  and 
produces  a  poisonous  compound. 

A  slice  of  lemon  is  a  good  substitute  for  milk  in  tea. 
The  lemon  prevents  the  headache  and  sleeplessness  which 
the  tea  causes  in  some  persons. 

A  French  chemist  recommends  grinding  tea  like  coffee. 
It  will  yield  nearly  double  the  amount  of  its  exhilarating 
quality.  Also  to  put  a  lump  of  sugar  into  the  teapot 
with  the  tea. 

Iced  Tea,  or  Russian  Tea. 

Make  the  tea  by  the  first  receipt,  strain  it  from  the 
grounds,  and  keep  it  cool.  When  ready  to  serve,  put  two 
cubes  of  block  sugar  in  a  glass,  half  Jill  with  broken  ice,  add 
a  slice  of  lemon,  and  fill  the  glass  with  cold  tea. 

Coffee. 

Coffee  grows  on  small  trees.  Mocha,  the  best  variety, 
is  grown  in  Arabia.  Other  choice  kinds  come  from  Java, 
the  West  Indies,  and  South  America.  The  fruit  of  the 
coffee  tree  is  something  like  the  cherry,  and  contains  two 
seeds  or  beans.  Bruising  the  fruit  separates  the  berries, 


Coffee.  113 

which  are  then  washed  and  dried.  The  raw  berries  are 
tough,  difficult  to  grind,  and  have  but  little  flavor.  Coffee 
should  be  roasted  and  kept  in  air-tight  cans,  that  the  fine 
flavor  may  be  perfectly  developed  and  preserved.  Coffee 
is  more  stimulating  than  tea,  and,  when  taken  very  strong 
after  a  hearty  meal,  aids  digestion.  It  should  be  made  in 
such  a  way  that  the  full  strength  and  aroma  are  obtained, 
without  developing  the  tannic  acid.  This  is  done  by  pour- 
ing boiling  water  upon  the  coffee  and  keeping  it  in  a 
closely  covered  vessel  just  below  the  boiling-point,  or 
boiling  not  longer  than  five  minutes.  If  allowed  to  boil 
longer,  or  left  uncovered,  the  volatile  oil  which  forms  the 
fragrant  aroma  is  dissipated,  and  the  tannic  acid  extracted. 
This  acid,  when  combined  with  cream  or  milk,  forms  a 
leathery,  indigestible  compound  which  irritates  the  internal 
membranes. 

The  proportion  of  one  third  Mocha  and  two  thirds  Java 
coffee  is  agreeable  to  most  people.  Many  prefer  to  roast 
and  grind  the  coffee  for  themselves ;  but  in  coffee-houses 
the  arrangements  for  roasting  are  now  so  complete,  that  it 
is  well  for  small  families  to  buy  coffee  already  roasted, 
and  to  grind  it  as  needed,  or  buy  it  ground  in  a  small 
quantity. 

The  coffee-pot  should  be  of  granite  ware  or  porcelain, 
and  kept  scrupulously  clean,  cleansing  the  spout  as  well 
as  the  pot  every  time  it  is  used.  A  brownish  deposit  is 
soon  formed  on  the  inside  of  the  pot,  if  the  coffee  be 
allowed  to  stand  in  it  long,  or  if  it  be  not  often  scoured. 
Man}'  a  cup  of  ill-flavored  coffee  is  owing  to  its  having 
been  made  in  an  unclean  pot. 

The  proportions  are,  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  coffee 
to  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  reducing  the  proportion 
slightly  when  several  cups  are  required.  Half  a  cup  of 
ground  coffee  is  enough  for  one  quart  of  water,  and  will 
make  sufficient  for  five  people.  It  takes  a  greater  pro- 
portion of  coffee  and  water,  and  it  is  more  difficult  to 
make  just  enough  for  one  person  than  for  more,  as  the 
last  coffee  poured  out  is  not  as  clear  as  the  first.  The 

8 


H4  The  Boston  Cook  Be 


old  notion  of  allowing  extra  for  the  pot  is  not  without 
reason. 

Fish  glue  or  inferior  isinglass,  which  can  be  purchased 
at  a  druggist's,  is  a  cheap  and  convenient  article  to  use  in 
clearing  coffee.  Egg  shells  should  be  saved  and  used  for 
the  same  purpose.  Wipe  the  eggs  as  soon  as  they  come 
from  the  market,  and  then  the  shells  may  all  be  used.  Two 
or  three  shells  contain  albumen  sufficient  to  clear  a  quart 
of  coffee. 

Various  modifications  of  the  biggin,  or  French  coffee-pot, 
are  in  use,  and  the  coffee  made  in  them  is  excellent,  as 
none  of  the  aroma  is  wasted.  They  are  generally  quite 
expensive,  and  some  soon  get  out  of  order,  if  not  handled 
carefully.  The  spout  of  the  coffee-pot  should  be  closed 
with  a  cork,  or  a  thimble  fitted  for  that  purpose,  or  a  piece 
of  soft  brown  paper  twisted  so  as  to  form  a  stopper.  This 
prevents  the  escape  of  the  steam  and  aroma.  Coffee,  if 
allowed  to  boil,  should  stand  at  least  ten  minutes  after 
boiling,  to  give  it  time  to  settle  and  become  clear. 

Roasting  Coffee. 

Put  one  pound  of  raw  coffee  in  a  small  frying-pan;  Place 
it  on  the  stove,  and  shake  and  stir  occasionally  for  fifteen 
minutes,  or  till  yellow.  Then  cover  it,  and  increase  the 
heat,  and  shake  till  the  kernels  are  all  a  deep  cinnamon  or 
chestnut  color,  and  have  an  oily  appearance.  Be  careful 
that  none  are  burned.  Keep  it  covered,  and  when  still 
warm,  not  hot,  add  one  egg  and  its  shell.  Beat  until  every 
kernel  is  coated  with  the  egg.  The  egg  will  dry  quickly. 
It  helps  to  preserve  the  flavor,  is  the  cheapest  form  in 
which  to  use  egg  for  clearing,  and  does  not  interfere  with 
the  grinding  of  the  coffee. 

Coffee  should  be  kept  in  air-tight  tin  cans,  and  ground 
only  as  required.  The  finer  it  is  ground,  the  stronger  will 
be  the  extract* 


Coffee.  US 


Coffee  (Common  Coffee-Pot). 

1  heaping  tablesp.  ground  coffee.  I     1  egg  shell. 

1  square  inch  isinglass,  or  |      1  cup  freshly  boiling  water. 

Scald  the  coffee-pot.  Put  in  the  coffee  and  isinglass. 
Add  the  boiling  water.  Cover  the  spout,  and  boil  just  five 
minutes.  Stir  it  well.  Set  the  pot  on  the  back  of  the 
stove,  where  it  will  keep  hot,  but  not  boil.  Add  half  a  cup  of 
cold  water.  Pour  out  a  little  of  the  coffee  and  pour  it  back 
again  to  clear  the  grounds  from  the  spout.  Let  it  stand 
at  least  ten  minutes.  If  served  in  the  pot,  be  careful-  not 
to  roil  the  coffee  by  shaking  the  pot  or  by  careless  pour- 
ing. A  tablespoonful  of  caramel  mixed  with  the  ground 
coffee  gives  additional  flavor  and  color. 

Steamed  Coffee. 

The  same  proportions  as  in  the  preceding  rule.  Place 
the  coffee-pot  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water,  or  make  the 
coffee  in  a  granite  double  boiler  kept  expressly  for  that 
purpose,  and  steam  twenty  minutes.  Pour  it  from  the 
grounds  into  a  hot  coffee-pot  for  serving. 

Coffee  made  with  Cold  Water. — Put  the  required  propor- 
tion of  cold  water  and  coffee  into  a  china  or  granite  coffee- 
pot, cover  closely,  and  let  it  stand  over  night.  In  the 
morning  let  it  just  come  to  the  boiling-point,  and  serve  at 
once.  J4'.  needs  no  straining  nor  clearing.  (Miss  Devereux.} 

Coffee  made  with  an  Egg. 

One  egg  is  sufficient  to  clear  one  cup  of  ground  coffee.  If 
a  smaller  quantity  be  desired,  half  an  egg  may  be  used,  as, 
if  fresh,  the  remainder  will  keep  till  the  next  day.  Or  the 
whole  egg  may  be  beaten  with  the  ground  coffee,  and  such 
portion  of  it  used  as  is  needed,  keeping  the  remainder 
closely  covered. 

To  make  the  coffee,  add  half  a  cup  of  cold  water  to  the 
portion  of  egg  to  be  used  and  one  third  of  a  cup  of  coffee. 


n6  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Beat  well ;  put  it  in  the  hot  coffee-pot ;  add  one  pint  of 
boiling  water  and  boil  five  minutes.  Keep  it  hot,  but  not 
boiling,  for  ten  minutes.  Pour  out  a  little  and  pour  it 
back  to  clear  the  spout. 

Filtered  Coffee. 

This  is  made  in  a  French  biggin,  or  any  double  coffee- 
pot fitted  with  one  or  more  strainers.  The  coffee,  which 
is  ground  very  fine,  is  placed  in  the  strainer ;  this  is  put 
into  the  receptacle  for  holding  the  made  coffee,  the  boiling 
water  is  poured  in  and  allowed  to  drip  slowly  through  the 
coffee.  If  there  be  only  two  parts  to  it,  the  coffee-pot 
should  stand  where  the  coffee  will  keep  hot.  but  not  boil. 
Many  of  the  coffee-pots  made  on  this  principle  are  placed 
in  another  vessel  containing  boiling  water. 

To  serve  Coffee. 

Cream,  scalded  milk,  and  block  sugar  are  essential  to  good 
breakfast  coffee.  Put  in  one  tablespoonful  of  cream  and  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  fill  the  cup  three  fourths  full. 
Never  fill  to  overflowing.  Let  each  person  add  the  sugar 
desired,  unless  you  know  the  individual  tastes  of  the  fam- 
ily. The  milk  should  be  just  hot,  but  never  boiled,  as 
boiled  milk  gives  a  very  unpleasant  flavor. 

After-dinner  coffee,  or  black  coffee,  is  made  by  either  of 
the  receipts  previously  given,  using  double  the  proportion 
of  coffee  :  two  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  coffee  to  one  cup  of 
water.  It  should  be  very  strong  and  perfectly  clear  ;  served 
in  small  cups,  with  block  sugar  if  desired,  but  not  with 
cream  or  milk,  as  the  milk  counteracts  the  purpose  for 
which  the  coffee  is  taken. 

The  addition  of  three  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped  cream  to  a 
cup  of  coffee  gives  Vienna  Coffee.  An  equal  amount  of 
boiled  milk  and  filtered  coffee  is  called  Cafe  au  Lait. 

Cocoa  and  Chocolate. 

Cocoa  is  the  fruit  of  a  small  tree  which  grows  in  Mexico, 
Central  America,  and  the  West  Indies.  The  fruit  is  shaped 


Cocoa.  ii 7 

like  a  large,  thick  cucumber,  and  contains  from  six  to 
thirty  beans.  The  beans  are  roasted,  like  coffee.  The 
husks  or  shells  are  taken  off,  and  used  in  that  form  as 
cocoa  shells.  The}'  need  longer  boiling,  and  are  preferred 
by  many  persons  with  weak  digestion.  They  are  some- 
times ground  with  the  bean,  making  an  inferior  article  of 
cocoa.  Starch  is  also  used  to  adulterate  cocoa.  The  best 
cocoa  is  made  from  the  whole  bean  after  the  husk  is  re- 
moved. Cocoa  nibs  are  the  beans  broken  instead  of 
ground. 

Chocolate  is  the  finely  ground  powder  from  the  kernels 
mixed  to  a  stiff  paste  with  sugar,  and  sometimes  flavored 
with  vanilla.  It  is  the  most  nutritious  and  convenient  form 
of  cocoa ;  a  small  cake  of  it  will  satisfy  hunger.  It  is  a 
very  good  lunch  for  travellers.  If  the  oily  scum  which 
forms  on  the  surface  after  boiling  be  removed,  it  is  less 
indigestible. 

Chocolate  does  not  produce  the  injurious  effects  which 
render  tea  and  coffee  objectionable,  and  is  far  better  for 
children  and  working-people. 

Cocoa. 

Put  half  a  cup  of  broken  cocoa  into  a  pot  with  tw o  quarts 
of  water.  Boil  gentty  two  hours,  until  reduced  to  one 
quart ;  or  use  half  cocoa  and  half  shells.  Serve  with  sugar 
and  cream,  or  scalded  milk.  It  is  more  digestible  if  allowed 
to  cool  and  the  globules  of  fat  removed,  then  reheated. 

Prepared  Cocoa. 

This  ground  cocoa  comes  in  man}'  forms,  and  some  are 
recommended  to  be  prepared  at  the  table ;  but  all  kinds 
are  better  boiled  one  minute  in  a  very  little  water,  the  same 
as  chocolate,  and  thinned  with  hot  milk. 

Shells. 

Steep  one  cup  of  shells  in  one  quart  of  boiling  water  three 
or  four  hours,  adding  more  hot  water  as  it  boils  away. 
Strain,  and  serve  with  hot  milk,  or  cream  and  sugar. 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Chocolate. 

Put  one  square  of  Baker's  chocolate,  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
sugar,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  water,  and  a  pinch  of  salt  in 
a  small  saucepan,  and  boil  until  smooth ;  stir  constantly ; 
add  gradually  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  when  read}7  to 
serve  add  one  pint  of  hot  milk.  Use  all  milk  and  two  squares 
of  chocolate,  if  liked  richer ;  or  thicken  with  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  cornstarch  wet  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  boil  five  min- 
utes before  adding  the  milk. 

German,  or  Sweetened  Vanilla  Chocolate. 

Melt  two  sticks  of  chocolate  in  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
hot  water.  .  Stir  to  a  smooth  paste  ;  add  gradually  one  pint 
of  hot  milk  and  stir  or  mill  it  five  minutes.  Serve  in  cups 
three  quarters  full  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  whipped 
cream  on  the  top.  Sweeten  and  flavor  the  cream  before 
whipping. 

Hot  Milk. 

Heat  the  milk  over  boiling  water  until  it  is  barely  hot, 
but  not  scalded.  Test  the  heat  by  tasting.  Shake  in  a 
few  grains  of  salt,  and  sip  it  by  the  teaspoonful.  One  of 
the  best  "  nightcap  drinks." 

Lemonade. 

Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one  pint  of  water  ten  minutes  ; 
add  thin  shavings  of  the  yellow  peel  of  one  lemon,  and 
pour  it  hot  over  the  juice  of  three  lemons.  When  cold, 
strain  it,  and  add  chipped  ice  and  water  as  desired. 

Fruit  Punch. 

Boil  two  cups  of  sugar  and  one  quart  of  water  twenty 
minutes.  Pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  following  mixture  : 
half  a  cup  each  of  lemon  and  orange  juice,  one  cup  of 
strawberry  juice,  half  a  cup  of  canned  cherry  syrup, 
and  one  cup  of  chopped  pineapple.  When  ready  to 
serve,  strain  it,  dilute  with  ice  water,  and  add  one  cup 
of  fresh  strawberries  quartered,  one  banana  sliced,  and 
half  a  cup  stoned  cherries.  Dilute  with  Apollinaris  if 
preferred. 


Soup.  i 19 


SOUP. 

NOTHING  can  be  easier  than  to  make  a  good  soup  if 
one  only  knows  how  and  has  the  will  to  do  it ;  and  if  one 
will,  it  is  easy  to  know  how.  Considerations  of  econ- 
omy  and  healthfulness  make  it  the  duty  of  every  house- 
keeper to  thoroughly  inform  herself  on  the  few  essential 
points  in  soup-making.  When  these  are  learned  it  will 
be  as  simple  as  any  other  duty. 

As  soups  are  not  made  from  nothing,  a  supply  of  mate- 
rials should  always  be  kept  on  hand,  such  as  dried  sweet 
herbs  (which  may  be  purchased  at  any  city  market  for  a 
trifle ;  twenty-five  cents'  worth  will  last  a  year  or  more)  ; 
also  whole,  as  well  as  ground  spices;  and,  more  particu- 
larly, fresh  vegetables,  —  onions,  carrots,  and  turnips.  If 
we  had  access  to  the  French  market,  we  could  buy  the 
smallest  amount  whenever  it  might  be  desired;  but  as 
only  a  few  marketmen  in  America  will  sell  a  single  onion 
or  a  single  carrot,  it  is  well  for  those  who  cannot  cultivate 
for  themselves  to  purchase  in  large  quantities.  They 
may  be  kept  in  a  cool  place  by  covering  with  clean  sand. 
Parsley  may  be  grown  in  the  house  if  you  have  a  sunny 
window;  and  we  can  all  have  salt  and  pepper.  Now, 
having  these  seasoning  materials  always  at  hand,  you 
may  easily  find  other  material  in  the  store-room,  or  from 
the  day's  supply  of  fresh  meat,  fish,  etc.,  without  buying 
expressly  for  soup  ;  that  is,  if  you,  instead  of  the  market- 
man,  have  the  bones  and  trimmings. 

Every  pantry  should  have  a  "  catch  all."  It  is  vastly 
more  important  there  than  in  the  sewing-room  or  on  the 
toilet-table.  The  coal-hod,  refuse  pail,  and  sink  catch  all 
in  many  households.  One  or  two  large  bowls  —  not  tin, 
but  deep  earthen  dishes,  provided  they  are  sw^et  and  do 


120  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

not  leak  —  will  better  answer  the  pnrpose.  After  breakfast 
or  dinner,  do  not  put  away  the  remnants  of  steaks  01 
roasts  on  the  platters,  but  look  them  over  and  put  by 
themselves  any  pieces  that  can  be  used  again,  either  cold 
or  in  what  are  called  made  dishes.  Then  put  all  the  bones, 
trimmings,  fat,  gristle,  and  everything,  especially  the 
platter  gravy,  which  usually  flavors  the  dish-water,  into 
the  "  catch  all."  If  you  have  just  one  bone  from  a  steak 
or  chop,  if  it  be  not  burned  it  is  worth  saving,  and  in  cool 
weather  will  keep  till  you  have  another.  If  there  be  a 
tablespoonful  of  any  vegetables,  a  stalk  of  celery,  an  egg, 
baked  apple,  or  a  bit  of  macaroni,  put  them  away  neatly. 
You  will  find  a  use  for  them.  If  }TOU  have  boiled  a  fresh 
tongue,  a  fowl,  a  leg  of  lamb,  or  a  cup  of  rice,  plan  to 
make  a  soup  also,  and  thus  save  the  water.  This  economy 
may  be  carried  to  the  extreme  of  saving  the  water  in  which 
cabbages,  beans,  or  potatoes  have  been  boiled,  or  of  keep- 
ing a  fire  several  hours  in  a  hot  day  only  to  save  a  few 
cents'  worth  of  bone,  or  of  spoiling  all  the  soup  by  adding 
a  spoonful  of  turnip  already  sour ;  but  as  a  rule  we  err  in 
the  opposite  practice. 

Soups  are  made  from  meat,  fish,  and  vegetables,  with 
water  or  milk ;  seasoned  or  flavored  with  any  or  every 
kind  of  vegetable,  sweet  herbs,  spices,  curry  powder, 
catchups,  aromatic  sauces,  and  with  some  kinds  of  fruit. 
They  are  served  thin  and  clear,  or  thickened  with  vegeta- 
bles or  cereals,  and  with  or  without  meat. 

Soups  are  classified  and  named  in  various  ways,  accord- 
ing to  material,  color,  quality,  etc.  Soups  with  stock  have 
meat  as  the  basis.  Soups  without  stock  are  made  of  fish, 
vegetables,  and  milk.  They  are  sometimes  called  soup 
maiyre.  Soups  are  named  from  the  principal  ingredient, 
or  an  imitation  of  the  same,  as  Potato,  Onion,  Beef, 
Mutton,  Chicken,  Gumbo,  Macaroni,  Okra,  Ox-tail,  Gib- 
let,  Cock-a-leekie,  Lobster,  Mock  Turtle,  Mock  Bisque, 
etc.  ;  or  from  the  color,  as  Clear,  or  Amber,  Brown,  and 
White  ;  or  from  the  consistency,  as  Thin  soups  and  Purees  ; 
or  from  the  quality,  as  simple  Broths,  Bouillon,  and  Con- 


Stock.  121 

soinme ;  or  from  the  season  of  the  year,  as  Julienne ; 
or  from  the  people  who  use  them,  as  Scotch  Broth,  French 
Pot-au-feu,  Indian  Mullagatawney  ;  or  from  the  name  of 
the  makers,  or  in  any  way  one's  fancy  and  invention  may 
suggest.  But  from  the  scores,  yes,  hundreds  of  receipts 
in  the  cook-books,  which  seem  so  bewildering  to  the  be- 
ginner, a  few  simple  rules  may  be  deduced  which  will 
make  the  process  of  soup-making  intelligible ;  and  when 
once  the  foundation  is  laid,  you  may  build  and  enlarge  as 
you  choose. 

Do  not  be  discouraged  because  you  have  not  all  the 
dozen  or  more  ingredients  mentioned  in  most  receipts. 
You  will  find  many  of  them  may  be  omitted  with  a  per- 
fectly satisfactory  result.  Much  depends  upon  what  is 
omitted,  though,  as  Potage  k  la  Reine  without  chicken,  or 
Julienne  without  vegetables,  or  Mullagatawney  without 
curry  powder,  would  disappoint  those  who  think  only 
of  the  name ;  but,  called  by  any  other  name,  you  would 
find  them  very  good  soups. 

Soups  with  Stock. 

Soups  made  with  stock  include  all  the  varieties  made 
from  beef,  veal,  mutton,  and  poultry.  Perhaps  a  glance 
at  the  meaning  of  the  word  stock  will  make  clear  its  appli- 
cation to  cookery.  Stock  is  from  the  Anglo-Saxon  stician, 
to  stick,  and  the  idea  of  fixedness  is  expressed  in  all  its 
forms.  Stock  in  trade  or  business  means  the  money  or 
material  laid  b}',  or  stored,  stocked,  fixed,  us  a  source  of 
supply,  ready  for  use  at  any  time ;  and  in  the  business 
of  soup-making,  stock  is  the  material  stored  or  prepared 
in  such  a  way  that  it  may  be  kept  or  fixed  for  use  in 
making  different  kinds  of  meat  soup  ;  or,  more  definitely, 
it  is  a  liquid  containing  the  juices  and  soluble  parts  of 
meat,  bone,  and  vegetables,  which  have  been  extracted 
by  proper  cooking.  This  liquid  is  more  or  less  solid  when 
cold,  according  to  the" gelatinous  nature  of  the  ingredients. 
It  varies  greatly  in  qualit}*,  owing  to  the  manner  in  which 
it  is  prepared  and  the  material  used. 


122  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Stock  is  usually  made  from  the  cheaper,  inferior  parts 
of  meat,  which  yield  the  most  nutriment  when  cooked  in 
this  way ;  also  from  odds  and  ends  of  cooked  meat, 
which  perhaps  could  not  be  used  otherwise.  The  chief 
object  in  making  stock  is  to  obtain  in  the  quickest  manner 
the  largest  possible  amount  of  nutriment  from  the  cheap- 
est  parts  of  meat,  and  after  getting  it  to  keep  and  use  it. 
This  is  best  accomplished  by  observing  the  following 
rules :  — 

First.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  and  soak  them 
in  cold  water  before  heating,  that  every  atom  of  nourish- 
ment may  be  extracted.  Cold  water  draws  out  and 
dissolves  the  meat  juices,  while  hot  water  hardens  the 
albumen  on  the  outside  of  the  meat  and  prevents  the 
juices  from  escaping  into  the  liquid. 

Second.  Use  a  careful  selection  and  proportion  of  meat, 
bone,  and  water,  and  season  judiciously,  so  that  no  one 
flavor  will  predominate. 

Third.  Use  a  steam-tight  kettle,  and  simmer,  —  not  boil 
the  material  rapidly,  —  that  the  juices  may  be  retained  in 
the  water,  and  not  wasted  by  evaporation. 

Fourth.  Make  stock  the  day  before  using,  if  possible, 
that  the  fat  may  be  more  easily  removed  ;  but  do  not  give 
up  making  it  simply  from  "lack  of  time,"  for  it  can  be 
made  quickly. 

A  soup  digester  is  the  proper  vessel  for  making  stock. 
This  is  a  porcelain-lined  iron  kettle  with  a  bale,  and  hav 
ing  a  cover  fitting  closely  into  a  groove,  so  that  no  steam 
can  escape  except  from  the  valve  in  the  top  of  the  cover, 
which  at  once  indicates  when  the  water  is  boiling  rapidly. 
One  holding  six  quarts,  and  costing  three  dollars,  is  a  con- 
venient size  for  a  small  family.  If  you  cannot  afford  a 
digester,  get  a  granite  ironware  kettle,  with  a  tightly  fit- 
ting cover.  Plain  ironware  will  do  if  you  have  nothing 
better;  but  it  rusts  easily,  and,  if  tin-lined,  the  tin  melts 
in  careless  usage. 

The  meats  used  in  making  stock  should  contain  gelatine, 
9$mazome,  and  a  small  amount  of  fat. 


Stock.  123 

Gelatine  is  found  in  the  bones,  skin,  tendinous  and  gristly 
portions  of  flesh,  especially  in  veal.  It  is  this  which  causes 
the  stock  to  become  a  jelly.  But  a  soup  which  forms  a 
jell}',  or  is  made  principally  from  bones,  is  not  the  most 
nutritious.  The  jelly  of  bones  and  sinews  boiled  into  soup 
can  furnish  only  jelly  for  our  bones  and  sinews.  It  is  user 
ful  in  convalescence,  for  then  the  portions  of  the  system  in 
which  gelatine  is  needed  have  been  wasted  ;  but  in  other 
cases,  though  easily  digested,  it  is  unwholesome,  for  it 
loads  the  blood  with  disturbing  products.  It  is  entirely 
destitute  of  flavor,  and  therefore  we  need  with  it  meat  con- 
taining osmazome. 

Osmazome  is  that  part  of  meat  which  gives  to  each  of  the 
various  kinds  its  distinctive  flavor.  It  is  more  abundant 
in  brown  than  in  white  meats,  and  in  the  meat  of  old 
rather  than  in  that  of  young  animals.  It  is  found  largely 
in  lean  beef,  mutton,  and  fowls.  Osmazome  is  more  highly 
developed  in  roasted  meats ;  therefore  all  the  bones  and 
remnants  of  roasts  which  cannot  be  utilized  in  entrees, 
should  be  put  into  the  soup-kettle. 

We  need  also  the  alkaline  and  acid  salts  found  in  the 
blood  and  juices  of  the  flesh ;  therefore  a  small  portion  of 
raw,  lean  meat  should  form  a  part  of  ah1  stock. 

Fat  is  necessary,  as  an  element  of  perfect  food,  and 
should  alwa}rs  be  used  in  making  stock.  It  adds  to  the 
flavor,  and  all  that  is  not  absorbed  in  the  stock  may  be  re- 
moved when  cold.  The  marrow,  found  in  the  shin  bone, 
is  the  best  form  of  fat.  The  browned  fat  of  roast  beef 
gives  a  fine  flavor,  and  occasionally  a  bit  of  ham  or  bacon 
may  be  used.  But  all  mutton  fat  should  be  avoided,  be- 
cause of  its  rankness. 

These  four  kinds  of  meat — beef,  mutton,  veal,  and  poul- 
try —  may  be  used  together  or  separately.  It  is  better  to 
use  mutton,  if  in  a  large  quantity,  by  itself,  as  the  flavor 
is  disagreeable  to  many.  After  having  extracted  all  the 
nutriment  from  the  meat  in  its  juices,  fat,  albumen,  and 
flavor,  do  not  attempt  to  make  further  use  of  the  worthless 
residue  pf  muscular  fibre.  It  is  not  only  harmful,  but  dry, 


124  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

tasteless,  and  utterly  useless  as  food.  It  needs  the  addi- 
tion of  many  other  materials  to  make  it  palatable  even, 
and  it  is  cheaper  to  get  the  fi brine  we  need  from  meat 
cooked  in  other  ways,  directions  for  which  will  be  given 
under  Boiling  Meats  and  Stews.  Therefore  do  not  hesi- 
tate, as  a  matter  of  economy,  to  throw  away  this  useless 
meat. 

When  fresh  meat  is  bought  expressly  for  stock,  select  v 
piece  from  the  shin  or  lower  part  of  the  round  of  beef  or 
veal.  This  has  bone  with  marrow,  a  large  proportion  of 
gelatine,  more  or  less  osmazome,  according  to  the  amount 
of  flesh,  and  costs  less  than  other  parts.  In  mutton,  pieces 
from  the  neck  and  forequarter  are  the  best.  Fowls  are 
better  than  chickens.  With  this  fresh  meat  may  be  used 
the  bones  and  trimmings  from  steak  or  chops,  and  the 
flank  ends  of  roasting  pieces,  which  yield  more  nutriment 
if  added  to  the  stock  pot  before  being  cooked.  Add  also 
any  remnants  of  roasted  or  broiled  meat,  bone,  fat,  gristle, 
anything  except  mutton  fat.  In  families  where  large  roasts 
of  beef  and  poultry  are  often  used,  there  should  be  mate- 
rial enough  for  stock,  without  bujdng  new  meat,  except  for 
the  nicest  of  clear  soups,  which  the  French  call  Consomme. 

The  proportions  of  bone  and  meat  should  be  about  equal 
by  weight.  When  ready  to  begin  the  stock,  wipe  the  fresh 
meat  with  a  clean  cloth  wet  in  cold  water.  Never  put 
the  meat  in  a  pan  of  cold  water  to  soak.  It  takes  out  all 
the  juices  that  you  wish  to  save.  Wipe  before  cutting.  The 
inside  is  clean.  But  rinse  the  cloth  and  scrub  the  outside 
thoroughly.  Cut  away  thd  parts  that  are  tainted  or  dis- 
colored by  rusty  meat-hooks,  etc.  Examine  all  the  odds 
and  ends  of  cooked  meat,  and  remove  any  smoked  or 
burned  parts  from  ham  or  broiled  meat,  also  the  stuffing 
and  skin  from  roast  poultry,  if  }^ou  wish  to  have  the  stock 
clear.  Scrape  the  meat  clean  from  the  bones  and  cut  into 
inch  pieces.  Break  or  saw  the  bones  as  small  as  you  con- 
veniently can.  Remove  the  marrow  (a  soft,  fatty  sub- 
stance, which  you  will  find  in  the  hollow  of  the  bones)  and 
put  it  in  the  soup  kettle  to  keep  the  bones  from  sticking. 


Stock.  125 

Put  in  the  bones  and  pack  the  meat  around  them.  Place 
your  kettle  on  the  back  of  the  range  before  adding  the 
water,  so  that  there  need  be  no  heavy  weight  to  lift.  Allow 
one  quart  of  fresh  cold  water  to  every  pound  of  meat  and 
bone ;  one  fourth  less  water  if  your  stock  is  to  be  made 
altogether  of  cooked  meats,  or  if  }rou  use  a  digester.  Cover 
the  kettle,  and  after  the  water  is  quite  red,  and  the  juices 
are  well  drawn  out,  draw  the  kettle  forward  and  let  it  heat 
slowly,  and  simmer,  or  boil  slowly,  but  never  boil  hard. 

The  scum,  which  soon  rises  on  the  surface,  is  the  albu- 
men and  juices  of  the  meat  which  have  been  drawn  out 
and  mixed  with  the  cold  water.  They  coagulate,  or  har- 
den, as  the  water  heats,  and,  being  lighter  than  the  water, 
rise  to  the  surface  in  the  form  of  scum.  It  has  usually 
been  considered  essential,  in  making  soup,  to  remove  every 
particle  of  this  scum  ;  but  the  practice  is  wholly  unnecessary 
and  wasteful.  We  learn,  in  the  article  on  Boiling,  the 
three  distinct  purposes  and  methods  of  cooking  meat  in 
water ;  and  yet  in  skimming  a  soup  we  act  directly  con- 
trary to  the  general  principle  there  explained.  If  the  kettle 
be  clean,  the  water  pure,  and  the  meat  well  cleansed  from 
any  impurities  on  its  outer  surface,  what  can  there  be  in 
the  meat  not  suitable  to  eat,  an}7  more  than  in  roast  beef, 
or  steak,  or  boiled  mutton  ?  In  making  beef  tea  we  are 
directed  by  the  highest  scientific  authorities  to  remove  the 
fat,  cut  the  meat  small,  soak  it  in  cold  water,  heat  gradu- 
ally, and  never  skim,  as  the  scum  or  thickened  material  in 
the  water  is  the  very  thing  desired.  Soup  is  only  another 
form  of  beef  tea,  and  the  fat  which  is  objectionable  can 
better  be  removed  when  the  stock  is  cold.  These  juices 
and  soluble  parts  of  the  meat  should  be  retained ;  they 
increase,  rather  than  diminish,  the  flavor,  and  all  the  sedi 
ment  which  is  fine  enough  to  go  through  the  strainer 
should  be  used.  In  any  thickened  soup  it  is  so  mingled 
with  the  other  ingredients  as  not  to  be  unpleasant  to  the 
eye.  And  for  those  who  wish  clear  soups,  which  are  not 
as  nutritious,  this  sediment  can  easily  be  removed  in  the 
clearing. 


126  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

In  a  criticism  which  so  decidedly  rejects  a  prevailing 
custom,  it  may  be  well  to  remark  that  the  method  of  pre- 
paring soups  which  is  recommended  in  the  preceding 
paragraph  has  been  successfully  proved  in  the  Boston 
Cooking  School  for  the  last  three  years.  The  French,  who 
regard  skimming  as  very  important  in  making  their  Pot- 
au-feu,  remove  the  meat  as  soon  as  tender,  and  serve  it  as 
bouilli,  or  boiled  beef.  As  it  has  not  been  cut  in  small 
pieces,  and  is  heated  quickly,  some  of  the  juices  are  re- 
tained in  the  meat,  and  it  is  nourishing  and  palatable. 
Their  Pot-au-feu  is  more  like  our  beef  stew  than  like  soup 
stock. 

In  the  preparation  of  the  stock,  the  next  step  is  to  add 
the  seasoning,  which  may  be  used  in  these  proportions : 
For  every  quart  of  water,  one  even  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two 
peppercorns  or  half  a  saltspoonful  of  ground  pepper,  two 
doves,  two  allspice  berries,  one  fourth  of  a  saltspoonful  of 
velery  seed  or  a  bit  of  celery  root,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  a 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  each 
vegetable. 

Herbs  and  spices  are  better  whole  than  ground,  as  they 
may  be  more  readily  removed  by  straining.  The  French 
cooks  use  a  bouquet  of  herbs,  made  with  two  leaves  or 
blossoms  of  each  herb  wrapped  in  a  sprig  of  parsley  and 
tied  securely  so  that  it  may  be  easily  removed.  A  con- 
venient and  economical  way  is  to  strip  off  the  leaves  and 
blossoms,  break  the  stalks  in  tiny  pieces,  mix  them,  and 
keep  in  a  tin  box.  Use  sage,  summer  savory,  thyme,  marjo- 
ram, and  bay  leaves:  a  teaspoonful  of  the  mixture  (not 
of  each  herb)  for  every  quart.  The  vegetables  generally 
used  are  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery.  It  is  better  to 
omit  them  entirely  in  warm  weather,  or  if  you  wish  to 
keep  the  stock  more  than  a  week,  as  the  vegetable  juices 
ferment  quickly  and  sour  the  stock. 

Wash,  scrape,  or  pare  the  vegetables ;  cut  them  into 
small  pieces  for  convenience  in  measuring,  as  one  onion 
or  one  slice  of  carrot  is  rather  indefinite.  Keep  them 
in  cold  water  until  the  juices  are  drawn  from  the  meat. 


Stock.  127 


When  old  or  strong,  they  may  be  blanched  or  parboiled 
first. 

Onions,  potatoes,  and  cabbage  should  always  be  scalded 
to  draw  out  the  indigestible  qualities.  Some  object  to  the 
use  of  onions,  particularl}7  on  account  of  the  disagreeable 
odor ;  but  when  added  with  the  other  seasoning  material, 
they  are  so  completely  absorbed  in  the  stock  that  no 
trace  of  their  presence  can  be  detected.  All  or  part  of  the 
vegetables  may  be  fried  first,  if  you  like.  One  or  two 
sour  apples  give  a  pleasant  flavor  to  stock.  Wines  or 
catchups  should  be  added  just  before  serving,  as  boiling 
dissipates  the  flavor. 

If  you  wish  to  have  a  dark  brown  stock,  reserve  part  of 
the  lean  meat  to  brown  with  the  onions.  Fry  the  onions 
in  a  little  fat,  and  when  very  brown  remove  them,  to  pre- 
vent burning,  and  brown  the  meat  in  the  same  fat.  Add 
the  onions  and  meat  to  the  stock.  Take  a  little  water 
from  the  stock,  and  wash  off  all  the  browned  glaze  ad- 
hering to  the  frying-pan,  as  this  is  the  best  part.  A  table- 
spoonful  of  browned  sugar  or  caramel  (see  page  134), 
which  should  always  be  kept  on  hand,  will  also  give  a 
rich  dark  color.  After  the  seasoning  is  placed  in  the 
mixture,  put  the  kettle  where  it  will  keep  at  a  gentle, 
steady  simmering.  Do  not  let  it  boil  furiously  one  half- 
hour  and  not  at  all  the  next,  but  find  the  place  on  the 
range  where  it  will  keep  at  just  the  right  temperature,  and 
then,  if  you  have  a  steady  fire,  it  will  need  no  furthei 
attention  until  ready  to  strain.  It  is  hot  enough  if  the 
water  just  bubbles  on  one  side  of  the  kettle. 

When  the  stock  has  simmered  till  the  meat  is  in  rags 
and  the  bones  clean,  strain  at  once.  Do  not  let  it  stand, 
if  in  an  iron  kettle.  If  you  have  used  a  digester  or  steam- 
tight  kettle,  the  water  will  not  have  lessened  much.  If 
boiled  in  an  ordinary  kettle,  it  will  be  reduced  about  one 
half  by  evaporation,  and  may  be  diluted  when  ready  for 
the  table.  Strain  in  this  way.  Place  a  stone  jar  beside 
your  kettle.  It  should  be  of  a  size  suited  to  the  amount 
of  stock.  Put  a  colander  over  the  jar  (it  should  fit  inside 


128  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

it),  and  a  strainer  cloth  over  the  colander.  Then,  with 
a  ladle  or  dipper,  dip  the  contents  of  the  kettle  and  pour 
into  the  strainer.  Never  try  to  lift  the  kettle  and  pour 
it  out,  unless  you  have  more  strength  and  skill  than  most 
beginners.  When  you  have  only  a  pint  left,  you  may  try 
the  pouring.  Do  not  squeeze  the  cloth,  but  let  the  con- 
tents drain  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  then  throw  the  scraps 
awa}\  Remember  that  you  have  extracted  all  the  nutri- 
ment, and  have  it  in  the  water ;  so  do  not  expect  to  have 
any  virtue  in  the  meat  or  vegetables.  Set  the  jar  in  a 
cool  place,  uncovered,  but  not  in  the  ice  chest  while  hot. 
It  keeps  better  to  cool  quickly.  In  cold  weather,  and  if 
you  have  used  a  large  proportion  of  bone,  the  stock  will 
harden  like  jelly,  with  a  cake  of  solid  fat  on  the  top.  This 
fat,  by  excluding  the  air,  helps  to  keep  the  stock,  and 
should  not  be  removed  until  the  stock  is  needed.  In 
winter  stock  will  keep  a  week,  and  longer,  if  made  without 
vegetables.  It  should  be  heated  occasionally  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, or  after  taking  off  an}7  portion  of  it,  that  what 
remains  may  harden  again  in  an  unbroken  form.  A  little 
fresh  charcoal  tied  in  a  bag  and  boiled  with  the  stock  is 
said  to  restore  it  when  only  slightly  changed. 

In  very  warm  weather,  make  only  enough  for  each  day, 
as  sometimes  it  spoils  in  one  night.  If  you  wish  to  make 
a  soup  while  the  stock  is  still  hot,  put  what  portion  you 
may  need  into  a  shallow  pan  and  place  the  pan  in  ice 
water,  with  a  larger  pan  of  ice  water  over  it.  This  will 
soon  harden  the  fat ;  or  if  you  have  not  time  to  do  this, 
take  off  what  fat  you  can  with  a  spoon,  and  wipe  off  the 
remainder  with  soft  tissue  paper,  or  strain  several  times 
through  a  fine  napkin.  The  grease  will  adhere  to  the 
napkin,  which  should  be  rinsed  in  cold  water.  That 
hardens  the  fat.  Or  you  may  let  the  soup  boil  gently, 
and  nearly  all  can  be  taken  off. 

To  remove  the  fat  after  the  stock  has  jellied,  run  a  knife 
around  between  the  cake  of  fat  and  the  jar.  If  the  fat  be 
solid,  it  will  sometimes  come  off  whole ;  but  if  soft,  take 
off  all  you  can  without  cutting  into  the  jelly,  then  wring 


Clearing  Stock.  129 


a  cloth  out  of  very  hot  water,  and  wipe  the  stock.  The 
hot  cloth  \\  .  absorb  the  fat  readily.  Remember,  if  the 
soup  is  to  be  served  clear,  not  a  pin-head  of  fat  must  be 
left ;  but  if  it  is  to  be  thickened  with  any  starchy  material, 
this  will  absorb  what  cannot  be  removed  with  a  spoon. 
This  fat  must  be  saved  and  clarified  according  to  direc- 
tions on  page  18. 

With  this  stock  for  a  foundation,  you  may  make  an 
endless  variety  of  soups,  each  soup  taking  its  name  from 
the  principal  solid  ingredient ;  and  it  is  equally  valuable  to 
use,  instead  of  water,  in  making  gravies  or  sauces.  No 
matter  how  little  you  have,  one  cupful  is  worth  more  than 
it  costs  to  make  it,  as  an  addition  to  fricassees  and  braised 
meats.  This  stock,  if  properly  made  and  strained,  will  be 
sufficiently  clear  for  any  common  soups.  But  for  clear 
sparkling  soups  and  aspic  jelly,  it  must  be  clarified  with  the 
white  of  an  egg- 
To  clear  Soup  Stock. 

Remove  the  fat,  and  allow  the  white  and  shell  of  one  egg 
for  every  quart  of  stock.  If  you  wish  to  flavor  the  stock 
more  highly,  add  half  a  saltspoonful  of  celery  seed  and  the 
thinnest  possible  shavings  from  the  rind  of  half  a  lemon.1 
Add  also  the  lemon  juice,  and  more  salt  and  pepper  if 
needed.  Mix  celery  seed,  lemon,  egg,  etc.  with  the  cold 
stock,  and  beat  it  well.  If  the  stock  be  hot  when  the  egg 
is  added,  tbe  egg  will  harden  before  it  has  done  its  work. 
This  is  a  point  where  many  fail.  Set  it  over  the  fire  and 
stir  it  ah1  the  time,  until  it  is  hot,  to  keep  the  egg  from 
settling.  Then  leave  it,  and  let  it  boil  ten  minutes.  By 
this  time  a  thick  scum  will  have  formed,  and  as  it  breaks 
the  liquid  will  be  clear  and  sparkling,  like  wine,  and  darker 
than  before.  Draw  it  back  on  the  stove,  and  add  half  a 
cup  of  cold  water.  Let  it  stand  ten  minutes,  while  you 
get  your  jar,  colander,  and  fine  napkin  ready  for  straining. 
Wring  your  napkin  out  of  hot  water,  and  lay  it  over  the 
colander.  Put  the  finest  wire  strainer  on  the  napkin  and 
then  pour  it  all  through.  This  strainer  will  catch  the  scum 

1  Clear  soup  should  be  highly  seasoned,  as  clearing  destroys  some  of  the 
strength. 


130  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  shells  which  would  otherwise  clog  the  napkin.  Let  it 
take  its  own  time  to  drain  ;  but  if  you  must  h  ten  it,  raise 
the  napkin  first  at  one  corner,  and  then  at  another,  and  let 
the  liquid  run  down  to  a  clean  place.  This  is  better  than 
squeezing.  This  is  all  ready  to  serve  as  a  clear  soup  by 
simply  heating  to  the  boiling-point.  Serve  with  it,  in  the 
tureen,  thin  slices  of  lemon,  a  glass  of  sherry,  yolks  of 
hard-boiled  eggs,  or  delicate  flavored  force-meat  balls  ;  or 
put  on  each  plate  a  poached  egg,  or  a  spoonful  of  grated 
Parmesan  cheese. 

In  making  soups  from  this  stock,  bear  this  fact  in  mind  : 
Do  not  waste  the  stock  by  boiling  in  it  any  material 
which  requires  long  boiling.  Vegetables,  rice,  sago,  tapi- 
oca, macaroni,  vermicelli,  etc.,  should  be  cooked  separately 
and  then  added  to  the  stock,  which  should  be  brought  to 
the  boiling-point. 

The  following  are  some  of  the  principal  varieties. 
These  soups  are  all  supposed  to  have  no  meat  served 
with  them.  The  broth  is  clear  and  thin,  and  every  particle 
of  vegetable  or  cereal  should  be  distinct,  except  in  the 
soups  called  Mixed  Vegetable  and  Tomato. 

Concise  rules  for  Common  Brown  Stock  and  Consomme 
are  given  for  the  benefit  of  those  who  do  not  need  to  read 
all  the  preliminary  remarks. 


Brown  Soup  Stock. 


6  pounds  hind  shin  of  beef. 

6  quarts  cold  water. 

10  whole  cloves. 

10  whole  peppercorns. 

10  allspice. 

Bouquet  of  sweet  herbs. 


1  large  tablespoon  ful  salt 
3  small  onions. 
1  carrot. 

1  turnip. 

2  stalks  celery. 

2  sprigs  parsley. 


Wipe  and  cut  the  meat  and  bones  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  marrow,  bones,  half  of  the  meat,  and  the  cold 
water  into  the  kettle.  Soak  half  an  hour  before  heating. 
Add  spices  and  herbs.  Brown  the  onions  and  the  remain- 
der of  the  meat,  and  add  them  to  the  stock  ;  add  the  veg- 
etables cut  fine.  Simmer  six  or  seven  hours  and  strain. 


Consommt.  137 


Bouillon. 


4  pounds  beef,  from  the  middle  of 

the  round. 
2  pounds  bone. 
2  quarts  cold  water. 


1  tablespoonful  salt 

4  peppercorns. 

4  cloves. 

1  tablespoonful  mixed  herb*. 


Wipe  and  cut  the  meat  and  bones  into  small  pieces; 
add  the  water,  and  heat  slowly ;  add  the  seasoning,  and 
simmer  five  hours.  Boil  down  to  three  pints ;  strain, 
remove  the  fat,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve 
in  cups  at  luncheons,  evening  companies,  etc.  Boil  one 
onion,  half  a  carrot,  and  half  a  turnip  with  it  if  you  like. 

Clear,  or  Amber   Soup,  or  Consomme'.1 


1  tablespoonful  salt. 
3  onions. 
1  carrot. 

1  turnip. 

2  stalks  celery. 

2  sprigs  parsley. 

3  eggs,  whites  and  shells. 
1  saltspoonful  celery  seed. 
Rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon. 


4  pounds  shin  of  beef. 

4  pounds  knuckle  of  veal,  or 

3  pounds  fowl. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 

2  ounces  lean  ham  or  bacon. 

6  cloves. 

6  peppercorns. 

6  allspice. 

Bouquet  of  herbs. 

Wipe  and  cut  the  meat  and  bones  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  marrow,  bones,  and  part  of  the  meat  in  the  kettle 
with  four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Heat  slowly;  cut  the 
onions  and  vegetables  fine,  and  fry  them  in  the  ham  fat  or 
in  drippings  ;  then  brown  the  remainder  of  the  meat.  Add 
onions,  meat,  herbs,  spices,  and  vegetables.  Simmer  until 
the  meat  is  in  rags ;  it  will  take  seven  or  eight  hours. 
Strain,  and  when  cold  remove  the  fat ;  add  the  whites  and 
shells  of  the  eggs,  celery  seed,  lemon,  and  salt  and  pepper 
if  needed.  When  well  mixed,  heat  it,  and  boil  ten  min- 
utes. Strain  through  the  finest  strainer,  and  heat  again 
to  the  boiling-point  before  serving.  Serve  clear,  or  with 
wine  or  lemon.  Clear  soup  should  be  perfectly  transpar- 
ent, of  a  light  brown  or  straw  color. 

1  Consomme  means  "consumed,  boiled  to  rags." 


132  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Left-over  Soup. 


Bones  and  trimmings  from  a  6- 

pound  roast  of  beef. 
2  cold  mutton-chops. 
The  flank  end  of  a  sirloin  steak, 

uncooked. 
4  quarts  cold  water. 
1  tablespoonful  salt. 


4  cloves. 

4  peppercorns. 

1  cold  fried  egg. 

2  baked  apples. 

1  cup  cold  boiled  onions, 

2  stalks  celery. 

1  tablespoonful  mixed  herbs. 


Cut  up  the  meat  and  bones,  and  put  them  in  the  kettle 
with  the  cold  water.  Add  all  the  other  ingredients,  and 
simmer  till  the  bones  are  clean,  the  meat  is  in  rags,  and 
the  water  reduced  one  half.  Strain,  and  the  next  morning 
remove  the  fat ;  when  ready  to  serve,  heat  the  stock  to 
the  boiling-point ;  warm  with  it  one  cup  of  cold  macaroni 
or  tomatoes  left  Irom  yesterday's  dinner.  Add  more  sea- 
soning if  needed. 


Julienne  Soup. 


1  quart  stock. 

1  pint  mixed  vegetables. 


\/ 


teaspoonful  salt. 


%  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Cut  the  celery  into  thin  slices,  the  turnip  into  quarter- 
inch  dice,  and  the  carrot  into  three-quarters  by  one- 
eighth  inch  strips  or  straws,  using  only  the  orange  part. 
Or  cut  carrot  and  turnip  into  quarter-inch  slices,  and 
then  into  fancy  shapes  with  small  vegetable  cutters. 
Cover  with  boiling  water,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  cook  until  soft,  but  not  long  enough  to  destroy  their 
shapes.  Let  the  quart  of  stock  come  to  a  boil ;  add  the 
vegetables,  the  water,  and  more  salt  if  necessary.  Serve 
hot.  In  spring  and  summer  use  asparagus,  peas,  and 
string  beans.  It  is  quite  important  that  the  vegetables 
should  be  small  and  of  uniform  thickness ;  but  if  an}' 
require  a  longer  time  to  cook,  they  should  be  cut  into 
smaller  pieces. 


Brown  Soups.  133 


Macaroni  Soup. 


1  quart  stock. 

3  or  4  sticks  macaroni. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

3^  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Cook  the  macaroni  in  boiling  salted  water,  about  half  an 
hour,  or  until  tender ;  drain,  pour  cold  water  through  it, 
to  keep  it  from  sticking  together.  Lay  the  sticks  close 
together  on  a  board,  and  divide  them  into  eighth-inch 
pieces,  making  tiny  rings,  or  cut  them  into  half-inch 
pieces.  There  should  be  about  a  pint  of  macaroni  for  a 
quart  of  stock.  Bring  the  stock  to  a  boil ;  add  the  maca- 
roni, the  salt,  and  the  pepper ;  then  pour  all  into  the 
tureen. 

Vermicelli  Soup. 

1  quart  stock.  1  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  cup  vermicelli.  %  saltspoonful  pepper. 

The  vermicelli  may  be  broken  or  not,  as  you  please. 
Cook  about  ten  minutes  in  boiling  salted  water.  Drain, 
put  it  in  the  tureen,  and  pour  over  it  the  boiling  stock. 
Spaghetti  and  Italian  Paste  may  be  used  in  the  same  way. 

Rice,  Tapioca,  Sago,  or  Barley  Soup. 


1  quart  stock. 

2  tablespoonfuls  either  rice,  bar- 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  saltspoonful  pepper. 


ley,  tapioca,  or  sago. 

Wash  the  grains,  and  cook  until  tender  in  boiling  salted 
water ;  then  add  them  to  the  boiling  stock.     Serve  with 
croutons.     Barley  should  be  soaked  one  hour,  and  boiled  / 
two  hours  or  more.     Vegetables  and  macaroni  are  better  I 
with  beef  stock  ;  and  rice,  tapioca,  and  barley  with  mutton 
3r  chicken  stock. 

Tomato  Soup  with  Stock. 


1  quart  stock. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar. 


1  can  tomatoes. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 


1  saltspoonful  pepper. 

Stew  the  tomatoes  until  soft  enough  to  strain.     Rub  all 
but  the  seeds  through  the  strainer.     Add  the  sugar,  salt, 


134 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


and  pepper.     Add  all  to  the  boiling  stock.     Serve  with 
croutons. 

Carrot,  or  Crecy  Soup. 


1  quart  rich,  brown  stock. 

1  pint  carrot. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 

1  small  onion,  sliced. 


Wash  and  scrape  the  carrot ;  shave  off  in  thin  slices  s 
pint  of  the  outer  part.  Do  not  use  the  yellow  centre. 
Cook  the  carrot  with  the  onion  in  boiling  salted  water  to 
cover,  till  very  tender.  Rub  the  carrot  through  a  squash 
strainer.  Add  the  stock  and  heat  again.  Add  the  sugar, 
salt,  and  pepper,  and  when  hot  serve  immediately  with 
croutons. 

Mixed  Vegetable  Soup. 


1  cup  strained  tomatoes. 

1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


/   1  quart  stock. 

1  quart  boiling  water. 

1  cup  each  chopped  onion,  carrot, 
and  celery. 

^  cup  each  chopped  turnip,  pars- 
nip, and  cabbage. 

Use  all  or  as  many  varieties  of  vegetables  as  you  wish, 
or  if  you  have  only  a  few,  add  macaroni,  rice,  or  barley, 
having  in  all  half  the  amount  of  vegetables  that  you  have 
of  liquid.  Chop  all  the  vegetables  fine.  Cabbage,  cauli- 
flower, parsnip,  potatoes,  or  onions  should  be  parboiled  five 
minutes,  and  drained  carefully.  Fry  the  onions  and  car- 
rot ;  then  put  all  with  the  water  and  stock,  and  simmer 
until  tender.  Add  the  seasoning.  Serve  without  strain- 
(  ing.  Always  add  sugar  to  all  mixed  vegetable  soups. 

The  next  division  of  soups  includes  those  which  are 
thickened  in  various  ways,  and  in  which  the  meat  is  served 
with  the  soup  ;  also  White  Soups,  and  the  materials  to  be 
served  with  soups. 

Caramel,  for  coloring  Soups,  etc. 

Melt  one  cup  of  sugar  (either  brown  or  white)  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  water  in  a  frying-pan.  Stir  until  it  becomes 


Soups.  135 

of  a  dark  brown  color.  Add  one  cup  of  boiling  water;  sim- 
mer ten  minutes,  and  bottle  when  cool.  This  should  always 
be  kept  on  hand,  as  it  is  useful  for  many  purposes.  It 
gives  a  rich,  dark  color  to  soups,  coffee,  and  jelly  ;  is  more 
wholesome  than  browned  butter  in  sauces,  and  is  delicious 
as  a  flavoring  in  custards  and  pudding  sauces. 

Glaze.   ' 

Glaze  is  simply  clear  stock  boiled  down  to  one  fourth  of 
its  original  amount.  Put  two  quarts  of  rich,  strong  stock 
into  a  saucepan,  and  boil  it  uncovered  until  reduced  to 
one  pint.  It  should  have  a  gluey  consistency,  and  will 
keep  a  month  if  put  in  a  closely  covered  jar  in  a  cool  place. 
It  is  useful  in  browning  meats  which  have  not  been  colored 
by  cooking,  but  which  we  wish  to  have  the  appearance  of 
having  been  roasted  or  browned. 

Thickening  for  Soups. 

Soups  are  thickened  with  flour,  cornstarch,  or  rice  flour : 
one  tablespoonful  for  a  quart  of  soup,  —  heaping,  if  flour ; 
scant,  if  rice  flour  or  cornstarch.  Flour  is  the  cheapest, 
but  cornstarch  gives  a  smoother  consistency^  Mix  the 
flour  with  a  very  little  cold  water  or  milk  until  it  is  a  smooth 
paste  ;  then  add  more  liquid,  until  it  can  be  poured  easily 
into  the  boiling  soup.  Remember  to  boil  the  soup  fifteen 
or  twenty  minutes  after  the  thickening  is  added,  that  there 
may  be  no  raw  taste  of  the  flour.  Where  butter  and  flour 
are  used,  the  butter  is  rubbed  to  a  cream,  mixed  or  braided 
with  the  flour,  and  then  made  into  a  paste  with  a  little  of 
the  soup. 

A  better  way  is  to  put  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan, 
and  when  melted  and  bubbling  stir  in  the  flour  quickly, 
until  smooth  (be  careful  not  to  brown  butter  for  any 
white  soup)  ;  then  add  gradually  about  a  cup  of  the  hot 
soup,  letting  it  boil  and  thicken  as  }TOU  add  the  soup.  It 
should  be  thin  enough  to  pour.  In  vegetable  soups  or 
purees,  as  soon  as  the  hot  butter  and  flour  are  blended) 


136  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

they  may  be  stirred  at  once  into  the  soup.  This  is  what  is 
meant  in  many  of  the  receipts  by  thickening  with  butter 
and  flour  which  have  been  cooked  together.  The  hot  but- 
ter cooks  the  flour  more  thoroughly  than  it  can  be  cooked 
in  any  other  way.  When  a  brown  thickening  is  desired, 
as  in  Mock  Turtle  Soup,  melt  the  butter  and  let  it  become 
as  brown  as  it  will  without  burning ;  then  add  all  the 
flour  at  once  and  stir  quickly,  that  every  particle  of  it 
may  be  moistened  in  the  hot  butter ;  add  the  water  or 
soup  gradually. 

Flour  that  is  browned  while  dry,  either  in  the  oven  or 
over  the  fire,  colors,  but  does  not  thicken.  A  certain 
amount  of  moisture,  of  either  fat  or  water,  is  necessary 
with  the  heat  to  thoroughly  swell  the  grains  of  starch  in 
the  flour.  Thickened  soups  should  be  about  the  consist- 
ency of  good  cream.  Purees  are  thicker. 

Material  to  be  served  with  Soup. 

Croutons,  or  fried  Bread.  No.  1.  — Cut  stale  bread  into 
half-inch  slices,  remove  the  crusts,  and  cut  into  half-inch 
cubes ;  put  them  in  a  fry  ing-basket,  plunge  into  fat  hot 
enough  to  brown  them  while  }TOU  count  forty ;  drain  and 
sprinkle  with  salt.  They  may  be  fried  at  any  time  and 
heated  in  the  oven  just  before  serving.  They  are  espe- 
cially nice  with  pea  and  bean  soup. 

No.  2.  —  Cut  the  bread  into  cubes,  and  brown  in  butter 
in  an  omelet  pan  ;  or  butter  first,  then  cut  into  cubes  and 
brown  in  the  oven.  They  are  best  when  prepared  after 
the  first  receipt. 

Crisped  Crackers.  —  Split  butter  crackers  and  spread  with 
butter ;  put  them,  the  buttered  side  up,  into  a  pan,  and 
brown  in  a  hot  oven.  They  are  delicious  with  white  or 
vegetable  soups,  and  in  fish  chowder  and  oyster  stews. 

Egg  Balls. 

Boiiybwr  eggs  twenty  minutes  ;  put  them  in  cold  water. 
When  cool,  cut  carefully  through  the  white,  and  remove 


Soups.  137 

the  yolks  whole.  They  may  be  served  in  the  soup  whoio 
or  cut  into  quarters.  Or  put  the  yolks  in  a  small  bowl 
and  rub  them  to  a  paste  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Season 
with  one  saUspoonful  of  salt ;  one  fourth  of  a  sali&poonfnl 
of  pepper  ;  one  teaspoonful  of  melted  butter.  Moisten  it  with 
the  beaten  }*olk  or  white  of  one  raw  egg,  using  just  enough 
to  shape  it  easily  into  balls  about  the  size  of  a  walnut 
Roll  in  flour  and  fry  in  butter ;  the  same  as  force-me^t 
balls.  They  are  sometimes  boiled  five  minutes  in  the  soup, 
but  are  better  fried. 

• 
Force-Meat  Balls  for  Soup. 


1  cup  of  any  cooked  meat. 

i  saltsp.  each  of  salt  and  thyme. 

%  saltspoonful  pepper. 

1  teaspoonful  lemon  juice. 

1  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley. 


Yolk  of  1  raw  egg. 
A  few  drops  onion  juice. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 


Chop  the  meat  very  fine ;  add  the  seasoning ;  beat  the 
yolk  of  the  egg,  and  add  enough  of  it  to  moisten  the  meat ; 
make  it  into  balls  the  size  of  a  nutmeg,  put  them  in  a  soup 
plate,  sprinkle  them  with  flour,  shake  the  plate  until  the 
balls  are  all  floured  ;  put  the  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  and 
when  brown  put  in  the  balls,  and  shake  the  pan  occasion- 
ally until  the  balls  are  browned. 

Mock  Turtle  Soup. 


1  calf's  head. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 

1  tablespoonful  salt. 
6  cloves. 

6  peppercorns. 

6  allspice. 

%  inch  stick  cinnamon. 

Bouquet  of  herbs. 

2  onions. 


1  carrot. 

1  turnip. 
Celery  root. 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 
2  tablespoonfuls  flour. 

1  pint  brown  stock. 


1  lemon. 


Wash,  scrape,  and  clean  the  head,  and  soak  an  hour  In 
cold  water.     Remove  the  brains  and  tongue.     Lay  them 


138  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

in  cold  water,  to  be  reserved  for  separate  dishes.  Cut  the 
head  into  four  or  five  pieces,  and  put  it  into  the  kettle  with 
the  skin  side  up,  to  prevent  sticking.  Add  the  cold  water  ; 
heat  slowly  and  skim  thoroughly,  as  the  meat  is  to  be  used 
again.  Add  the  salt,  and  simmer  two  hours,  or  until  the 
meat  slips  from  the  bones.  Remove  the  meat,  and  put 
the  face  meat  smoothly  on  a  plate,  so  it  can  easily  be  cut 
into  dice  when  cool.  Reserve  the  remainder  of  the  meat 
for  force-meat  balls.  Put  the  bones  on  to  boil  again. 
Add  the  herbs,  spices,  and  vegetables,  and  simmer  until 
reduced  to  two  quarts.  Strain,  and  set  awa}^  to  cool. 
Half  an  hdur  before  serving,  remove  the  fat,  put  the  stock 
on  to  boil,  and  season  with  one  saltspoonful  each  of  ground 
thyme  or  marjoram  and  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Make  a  brown  thickening  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter, 
browned,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  cornstarch  or  flour,  and 
one  pint  of  brown  stock.  Stir  this  into  the  stock.  Add 
one  cup  of  meat  dice,  made  by  cutting  the  face  meat  into 
half-inch  cubes.  Boil  the  three  eggs  twent}r  minutes,  and 
make  the  yolks  into  egg  balls,  or  cut  the  whole  eggs  in 
half- inch  slices.  Make  force-meat  balls  with  the  reserved 
meat,  according  to  directions  on  page  137.  Put  the  meat 
balls  and  egg  balls  into  the  tureen,  add  the  soup,  and  serve 
very  hot  with  thin  slices  of  lemon. 

This  is  usually  flavored  with  a  glass  of  sherry  wine,  but 
is  very  good  with  only  the  lemon,  or  a  tablespoonful  of 
Worcestershire  sauce.  Or  you  may  boil  with  it  one  pint 
of  strained  tomatoes. 

If  you  have  no  brown  stock,  boil  one  pound  of  lean  beef 
with  the  head,  and  use  the  head  stock  with  the  flour  and 
butter  thickening.  This  soup  is  often  made  from  calf's 
feet,  and  one  or  two  pounds  of  lean  veal.  The  feet  should 
be  soaked  and  scalded,  boiled  in  four  quarts  of  water  with 
the  herbs,  spices,  and  vegetables,  until  the  water  is  reduced 
to  two  quarts.  Strain,  and  use  as  directed  in  the  first 
receipt,  making  force-meat  balls  of  the  veal,  and  meat 
dice  from  the  gelatinous  meat  of  the  feet. 


Soups.  139 


Ox-Tail  Soup. 


2  ox-tails. 

1  large  onion. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  beef  drippings. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 


1  tablespoonful  salt. 

1  tablespoonful  mixed  herbs. 

4  cloves. 

4  peppercorns. 


Wash  and  cut  up  the  ox-tails,  separating  them  at  the 
joints.  Cut  the  onion  fine  and  fry  it  in  the  hot  beef  drip- 
pings. When  slightly  browned,  draw  the  onion  to  one  side 
of  the  pan,  and  brown  half  of  the  ox- tails.  Put  the  fried 
onion  and  ox- tails  in  the  soup  kettle,  and  cover  with  four 
quarts  of  cold  water.  Tie  the  cloves,  peppercorns,  and 
herbs  in  a  small  piece  of  strainer  cloth,  and  add  them  to 
the  soup.  Add  the  salt,  and  simmer  three  or  four  hours, 
or  until  the  meat  separates  from  the  bones,  and  the  gristly 
portions  are  perfectly  soft.  Select  some  of  the  nicest 
joints  to  serve  with  the  soup.  Skim  off  the  fat,  and  add 
more  salt  and  pepper,  if  needed.  Strain  and  serve  very  hot. 

If  vegetables  are  served  with  this  soup,  add  one  pint  of 
mixed  vegetables,  —  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  and  celery.  Cut 
them  into  small  pieces,  or  into  fancy  shapes  with  a  vege- 
table cutter.  Add  them  to  the  liquor  after  straining,  and 
boil  twenty  minutes  or  until  tender. 

Mullagatawny  Soup. 

This  is  an  Indian  soup,  and  means  "  pepper  pot."  It 
can  be  made  from  veal,  calfs  head,  chicken,  or  rabbit. 
Use  one,  or  a  mixture  of  two  or  more  of  these  varieties 
of  meat.  Mullagatawny  soup  should  always  be  very  highly 
seasoned  with  onions,  curry  powder,  and  apples,  or  lemons, 
or  some  strong  acid  fruit.  The  best  portions  of  the  meat 
are  usually  removed  as  soon  as  tender,  and  served  with  the 
strained  soup.  Rice  should  also  be  served  with  this  soup. 


3  pounds  chicken,  or  young  fowl. 
1  pound  veal  bones. 


onions. 


1  tablespoonful  beef  drippings. 

4  cloves. 

4  peppercorns. 


2  sour  apples,  or 

The  juice  of  1  lemon. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 

1  tablespoonful  curry  powder 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar. 


140  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Clean  the  chicken,  and  cut  it  at  the  joints  into  nice 
pieces  for  serving.  Put  it  in  the  soup  kettle  with  the  veal 
bones,  or  any  pieces  of  veal  you  ma}r  have.  Cover  with 
four  quarts  of  cold  water.  Slice  the  onions,  and  fry  them 
brown  in  the  beef  drippings.  Put  the  onions,  cloves,  pep- 
percorns, and  apples  in  the  kettle.  Mix  the  curry  powder, 
salt,  and  sugar  to  a  smooth  paste  with  a  little  of  the  water  ; 
add  it  to  the  soup.  Let  the  soup  simmer  until  the  chicken 
ts  tender.  Remove  the  chicken  and  cut  into  small  pieces. 
Put  the  bones  back  in  the  kettle,  and  simmer  another  hour. 
Strain  the  soup,  remove  the  fat,  and  put  the  liquor  on  to 
boil  again,  with  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  three  or  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  boiled  rice.  When  the  chicken  is  hot, 
serve  at  once. 

Scotch  Brocfl. 


%  cup  pearl  barley. 
2  pounds  neck  of  mutton. 
2  quarts  cold  water. 
%  cup  each  of  carrot,  turnip,  on- 
ion, and  celery. 


2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt. 

1  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  chopped  parsley. 


Pick  over,  and  soak  the  barley  over  night  or  several 
hours  in  cold  water.  Wipe  the  meat  with  a  clean  wet 
cloth.  Remove  the  fat  and  skin.  Scrape  the  meat  from 
the  bones  and  cut  it  into  half-inch  dice.  Put  the  bones  on 
to  boil  in  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  the  meat  in  three 
pints  of  cold  water.  Let  the  latter  boil  quickly,  and  skim 
carefully  just  as  it  begins  to  boil.  When  the  scum  comes 
up  white,  add  the  barley  and  skim  again.  Cut  the  vege- 
tables into  quarter-inch  dice,  fry  them  five  minutes  in 
one  tablespoonful  of  the  butter,  and  add  them  to  the  meat. 
Simmer  three  or  four  hours,  or  until  the  meat  and  barley 
are  tender.  Strain  the  water  in  which  the  bones  have  sim- 
mered. Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan 
with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  When  smooth,  add  the 
strained  water  gradually,  and  stir  into  the  broth.  Add 
the  salt,  pepper,  and  parsley.  Simmer  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  without  straining.  Many  people  have  a  prejudice 


Broth.  141 

against  mutton  in  stews  or  broths.  The  strong,  disagree- 
able flavor  lies  mostly  in  the  skin.  If  this  be  removed 
together  with  the  fat,  it  will  repay  one  for  the  time  and 
trouble.  As  this  broth  is  not  to  be  strained,  it  is  always 
well  to  boil  the  bones  separately.  Care  must  be  taken  not 
to  let  the  water  boil  away.  This  is  a  favorite  dish  among 
the  Scotch.  They  often  serve  it  with  a  larger  proportion  of 
vegetables.  The  carrots  are  sometimes  grated,  giving  the 
broth  a  fine  color,  and  sometimes  the  dice  of  meat  are  first 
browned  in  the  butter.  Rice  may  be  used  instead  of  bar- 
ley. Scotch  broth  made  after  this  receipt  has  been  tested 
by  a  native  Scotchman,  and  pronounced  more  like  the 
"  auld  countree  "  than  any  other  dish  eaten  in  America. 

Mutton  Broth. 

Allow  one  quart  of  cold  water  to  each  pound  of  meat  and 
bone.  Break  the  bones  and  cut  the  meat  (which  should 
be  lean)  into  small  pieces.  Cover  with  cold  water  and 
heat  slowly.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  small  slice  of  onion  and  turnip  if 
you  Uke.  Simmer  until  the  meat  is  in  shreds.  Strain  it, 
and  when  it  is  cool  remove  the  fat.  To  one  quart  of  the 
broth  allow  two  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  washed  and  soaked 
half  an  hour.  When  the  broth  is  boiling,  add  the  rice ; 
simmer  until  it  is  tender,  being  careful  not  to  let  the  water 
boil  away.  Season,  and  serve  at  once.  For  seasoning, 
a  little  curry  powder,  used  as  you  would  use  cayenne 
pepper,  or  a  saltspoonful  of  celery  salt,  or  a  few  leaves  of 
fresh  mint,  are  agreeable  as  a  change. 

When  you  have  not  time  to  cool  the  broth,  a  piece  of 
soft  tissue  paper  passed  over  the  surface  helps  to  take  up 
any  globules  of  fat  which  cannot  be  removed  with  a  spoon. 
To  make  it  quickly  for  a  sick  person,  chop  one  pound  of 
perfectly  lean,  juicy  mutton  very  fine  ;  pour  over  it  one  pint 
of  cold  water.  Let  it  stand  until  the  water  is  very  red ; 
then  heat  it  slowly.  Let  it  simmer  ten  minutes.  Strain, 
and  serve  hot. 


142  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Chicken  Broth. 

Clean  the  chicken,  and  separate  it  at  the  joints.  Re- 
move all  the  skin  and  fat.  Cover  the  chicken  with  cold 
water.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  of 
pepper,  one  small  onion,  sliced.  Simmer  until  the  chicken 
is  tender.  Remove  the  best  part  of  the  meat,  and  put 
the  bones  and  gristle  back  and  simmer  until  the  bones  are 
clean.  Wash  and  soak  two  taUespoonfuls  of  rice  half  an 
hour.  Strain  the  broth.  Remove  the  fat.  Put  the  broth 
on  to  boil  again,  and  add  to  it  the  rice,  and  the  nicest 
portions  of  meat  cut  into  small  pieces.  Simmer  until  the 
rice  is  tender.  Add  seasoning  to  taste,  and  serve  at  once. 
A  few  spoonfuls  of  cream  may  be  added  if  desired.  Serve 
with  toasted  crackers. 


Turkey  Soup. 

Take  the  bones  and  scraps  left  from  roast  turkey  or 
chicken,  or  any  kind  of  game.  Scrape  the  meat  from  the 
bones,  and  lay  aside  any  nice  pieces,  no  matter  how  small. 
Remove  all  the  stuffing,  and  keep  that  by  itself.  Break 
the  bones,  and  pack  them  closely  in  a  kettle.  Cover  with 
cold  water.  Add  one  small  onion,  sliced,  one  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  and  a  little  pepper.  Simmer  two  or  three  hours,  or 
until  the  bones  are  clean.  Strain,  and  remove  the  fat. 
Put  the  liquor  on  to  boil  again,  and  add  for  every  quart  of 
liquor,  one  cup  of  cold  meat,  cut  into  small  pieces,  and  half 
a  cup  of  the  stuffing.  Or  omit  the  stuffing  and  thicken  the 
soup  with  flour.  Simmer  till  the  meat  is  tender,  and 
serve  at  once.  If  there  be  a  much  larger  proportion  of 
meat  and  stuffing  left,  use  it  in  making  scalloped  turkey 
or  croquettes.  This  is  much  better  than  to  boil  meat, 
bones,  and  stuffing  together.  In  that  case  the  stuffing 
absorbs  the  oil,  and  gives  a  very  strong,  disagreeable 
flavor  to  the  soup. 


White  Stock.  143 


White  Soup  Stock. 

White  soup  stock  is  made  from  veal  or  chicken,  sea- 
soned with  onion,  celery  salt,  and  white  pepper,  avoiding 
anything  which  will  give  it  color.  White  soups  are  thick- 
ened with  rice,  cornstarch,  flour,  eggs,  or  the  white  meat 
of  chicken  chopped  fine,  and  are  made  still  richer  by  milk 
or  cream. 

White  Soup  (from  Veal). 


4  pounds  knuckle  of  veal. 
3  quarts  cold  water. 

1  even  tablespoonful  salt. 
6  peppercorns. 

2  small  onions. 
2  stalks  celery. 


1  pint  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  saltspoonful  celery  salt. 

1^  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 


Wipe  and  cut  the  veal  into  small  pieces.  Put  it  into 
the  kettle  with  the  cold  water.  Heat  slowly  and  skim, 
because  we  do  not  wish  the  soup  colored.  Add  the  salt, 
peppercorns,  onions,  and  celery.  Simmer  five  hours, 
strain,  and  when  cool  remove  the  fat.  There  should  be 
about  three  pints  of  stock.  When  ready  to  use  it,  put 
the  stock  on  to  boil,  and  the  milk  into  the  double  boiler. 
Thicken  the  stock  with  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch,  cooked  together. 
Add  the  boiling  milk,  the  salt,  and  pepper.  Beat  two 
eggs  until  light,  put  them  in  the  tureen,  and  strain  the 
boiling  soup  over  them.  Many  people  prefer  to  use  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs  only.  This  makes  a  yellow  soup. 
Others  vary  it  by  boiling  the  eggs  hard  and  rubbing  the 
yolks  through  a  gravy  strainer  after  the  soup  is  in  the 
tureen. 

This  veal  stock  may  be  clarified  with  the  white  of  an 
egg,  if  you  wish  it  transparent.  But  it  is  better  with  the 
milk  or  cream,  and  sheuld  be  highly  seasoned,  and  re- 
duced one  half  by  boiling,  as  when  made  from  veal 
it  is  insipid.  Serve  with  croutons. 


144  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


White  Soup  (from  Chicken). 


3  or  4  pounds  fowl. 

3  quarts  cold  water. 

1  tablespoonful  salt. 

6  peppercorns. 

1  tablespoonful  chopped  onion. 


1  pint  cream. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  cornstarch. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 


2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  celery.      2  eggs. 

Singe,  clean,  and  wipe  the  fowl.  Cut  off  the  legs  and 
wings,  and  disjoint  the  body.  Put  it  on  to  boil  in  cold 
water.  Let  it  come  to  a  boil  quickly,  because  we  wish  to 
use  the  meat  as  well  as  the  water,  and  skim  thoroughly. 
The  meat  may  be  removed  when  tender,  and  the  bones  put 
on  to  boil  again.  (Use  the  meat  for  croquettes  or  other 
made  dishes.)  Add  the  salt  and  vegetables.  Simmer  until 
reduced  one  half.  Strain,  and  when  cool  remove  the  fat. 
For  one  quart  of  stock  allow  one  pint  of  cream  or  milk. 
If  cream/use  a  little  less  flour  for  thickening.  Boil  the 
stock ;  add  the  butter  and  flour,  cooked  together,  and  the 
seasoning.  Strain  it  over  the  eggs,  stirring  as  you  pour, 
or  the  eggs  will  curdle.  By  substituting,  for  the  eggs  in 
this  white  soup,  the  white  meat  of  the  chicken,  chopped 
fine  and  rubbed  to  a  powder,  we  have  Potage  a  la  Reine, 
which  many  think  too  elaborate  for  any  bu4  a  professional 
cook  to  undertake.  The  breast  of  a  roast  chicken  may  be 
used.  Add  it  to  the  boiling  stock,  then  thicken  it  with 
the  flour  and  butter.  Add  the  cream,  and  if  not  perfectly 
smooth,  strain  into  the  tureen.  It  should  be  quite  thick 
like  cream.  Whole  rice  is  sometimes  served  with  clear 
chicken  soup.  If  used  as  a  thickening,  boil  the  rice  until 
soft  enough  to  rub  through  a  strainer.  Add  it  to  the 
chicken  liquor,  and  unite  them  with  butter  and  flour  cooked 
together. 

The  liquor  in  which  a  fowl  or  chicken  has  been  boiled, 
when  not  wanted  for  any  other  purpose,  should  be  saved 
for  white  soup.  If  the  vegetables  and  spices  are  not 
boiled  with  the  fowl,  fry  them  five  minutes  without  burn- 
ing, add  them  to  the  stock,  and  simmer  fifteen  minutes. 


White  Soups.  145 


Strain  before  serving.     Chicken  stock  clarified  makes  a 
pale  straw-colored,  transparent  soup. 

Potage  &  la  Heine,  No.  2.     (Queen  Victoria's  favorite  Soup.) 

Remove  the  fat  from  one  quart  of  the  water  in  which  a 
chicken  has  been  boiled.  Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper, 
and  celery  salt,  and  a  little  onion  if  desired,  and  put  on  to 
boil.  Mash  the  j'olks  of  three  hard-boiled  eggs  fine,  and 
mix  them  with  half  a  cup  of  bread  or  cracker  crumbs, 
soaked  until  soft  in  a  little  milk.  Chop  the  white  meat  of 
the  chicken  until  fine  like  meal,  and  stir  it  into  the  egg 
and  bread  paste.  Add  one  pint  of  hot  cream  slowly,  and 
then  rub  all  into  the  hot  chicken  liquor.  Boil  five  minutes  ; 
add  more  salt  if  needed,  and  if  too  thick  add  more  cream, 
or  if  not  thick  enough  add  more  fine  cracker  dust.  It 
should  be  like  a  puree. 

Cocoanut  Soup. 

Cook  two  pounds  of  veal  bones  in  two  quarts  of  cold 
water  until  the  meat  is  tender  and  the  stock  reduced  to 
one  quart.  Grate  the  cocoanut  and  let  it  simmer  with 
the  veal  the  last  half  hour.  Strain  out  the  bones  and 
cocoanut,  and  add  to  it  the  milk  of  the  cocoanut  and  one 
pint  of  cream.  Put  it  on  the  fire  again,  and  when  boiling, 
thicken  it  with  one  tablespoon  each  of  cornstarch  and 
butter  which  must  first  be  blended  or  cooked  as  for 
white  sauce.  Add  salt  and  pepper,  and^jpst  before 
serving  add  a  little  of  the  broth  to  two  slightly  beaten 
eggs,  then  stir  it  quickly  into  the  broth  and  serve  at 
once  with  dried  dice  of  bread. 


146  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


SOUPS  WITHOUT  STOCK. 

ANY  of  the  soups  or  purees  in  this  division  may  be  at- 
tempted before  one  has  mastered  the  imaginary  difficulties 
of  stock-making.     They   are   palatable,   nutritious,  inex 
pensive,  and  quickly  prepared. 


Potato  Soup. 


3  potatoes. 

1  pint  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  chopped  onion. 

1  stalk  celery. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 


%  teaspoonful  celery  salt. 
%  saltspoonf  ul  white  pepper. 
^  saltspoonful  cayenne. 
%  tablespoonf  ul  flour. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 


"Wash  and  pare  the  potatoes,  and  let  them  soak  in  cold 
water  half  an  hour.  Put  them  into  boiling  water,  and 
cook  until  very  soft.  Cook  the  onion  and  celery  with  the 
milk  in  a  double  boiler.  When  the  potatoes  are  soft,  drain 
off  the  water  and  mash  them.  Add  the  boiling  milk  and 
seasoning.  Rub  through  a  strainer,  and  put  it  on  to  boil 
again.  Put  the  butter  in  a  small  saucepan,  and  when 
melted  and  bubbling,  add  the  flour,  and  when  well  mixed 
stir  into  the  boiling  soup  ;  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  and  serve 
very  hot.  This  flour  thickening  keeps  the  potato  and 
milk  from  separating,  and  gives  a  smoothness  and  con- 
sistency quite  unlike  the  granular  effect  which  is  often 
noticed.  If  the  soup  be  too  thick,  add  more  hot  milk. 

The  celery  salt  may  be  omitted  if  you  have  the  fresh 
celery,  or,  if  you  like,  put  one  tablespoonful  of  fine  choppeil 
parsley  into  the  soap  just  before  serving. 

When  you  wish  a  richer  soup,  use  a  quart  of  milk,  mak- 
ing it  much  thinner,  and  add  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  after 
you  take  it  from  the  fire ;  or  put  them  in  the  tureen, 
and  stir  rapidly  as  you  pour  in  the  boiling  soup.  New  raw 
potatoes,  cut  into  small  dice  or  balls  and  cooked  till  tender 
but  not  broken,  are  sometimes  served  in  potato  soup. 


Soup  without  Stock.  147 


Celery  Soup. 


1  head  celery. 

1  pint  water. 

1  pint  milk. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  chopped  onion. 


1  tables  poonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 
^  saltspoonful  pepper. 


Wash  and  scrape  the  celery,  cut  into  half-inch  pieces, 
put  it  into  one  pint  of  boiling  salted  water,  and  cook  until 
very  soft.  Mash  in  the  water  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Cook 
the  onion  with  the  milk,  in  a  double  boiler,  ten  minutes, 
and  add  it  to  the  celery.  Rub  all  through  a  strainer,  and 
put  it  on  to  boil  again.  Cook  the  butter  and  flour  together 
in  a  small  saucepan  until  smooth,  but  not  brown,  and 
stir  it  into  the  boiling  soup.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper ; 
boil  five  minutes,  and  strain  into  the  tureen.  Serve  very 
hot. 

Tomato  Soup. 


1  quart  can  tomatoes. 
1  pint  hot  water. 
1  tablespoonful  sugar. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 
4  cloves. 


1  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  onion. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 
1  tablespoonful  cornstarch. 


4  peppercorns,  or 

Put  the  tomatoes,  water,  sugar,  salt,  cloves,  and  pep- 
percorns on  to  boil  in  a  porcelain  stewpan.  Put  the  but- 
ter in  a  small  saucepan,  and  when  it  bubbles  put  in  the 
onion  and  parslej^.  Fry  five  minutes,  being  careful  not  to 
burn  it.  Add  the  cornstarch,  and  when  well  mixed  stir 
it  into  the  tomato.  Let  it  simmer  ten  minutes.  Add 
more  salt  and  pepper  if  needed.  Strain,  and  serve  with 
plain  boiled  rice,  or  croutons,  or  toasted  crackers. 


Mock  Bisque  Soup. 


}£  can  tomatoes. 
1  quart  milk. 
%  cup  butter. 


1  tablespoonful  cornstarch. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1^2  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 


Stew  the  tomatoes  until  soft  enough  to  strain   easily. 
Boil  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.     Cook  one  tablespoonful 


148  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

of  the  butter  and  the  cornstarch  together  in  a  small  sauce- 
pan, adding  enough  of  the  hot  milk  to  make  it  pour  easily. 
Stir  it  carefully  into  the  boiling  milk,  and  boil  ten  minutes. 
Add  the  remainder  of  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  and  stir 
till  well  mixed.  Add  salt  and  pepper  and  the  strained 
tomatoes.  If  the  tomatoes  be  very  acid,  add  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  soda  before  straining.  Serve  very  hot.  Many 
would  use  more  tomatoes,  but  it  is  more  delicate  with  a 
small  quantity. 

Black  Bean  Soup. 


1  pint  black  beans. 

2  quarts  cold  water. 

1  small  onion. 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt. 

1  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


1  saltspoonful  mustard. 

1  tablespoonful  flour. 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 

1  lemon. 

2  hard-boiled  eggs. 


)4  saltspoonful  cayenne. 

Soak  the  beans  over  night.  In  the  morning  pour  ofl 
the  water,  and  put  them  on  to  boil  in  two  quarts  of  cold 
water.  Slice  the  onion  and  fry  it  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
the  butter.  Put  it  with  the  beans.  Add  a  bit  of  celery 
root,  if  you  have  it.  Simmer  four  or  five  hours,  or  until 
the  beans  are  soft.  Add  more  cold  water  as  it  boils  away, 
—  about  half  a  cup  every  half-hour,  —  to  check  the  boil- 
ing and  soften  the  beans,  leaving  about  two  quarts  when 
done.  Rub  the  beans  through  a  strainer,  put  the  soup 
on  to  boil  again,  and  add  the  salt,  pepper,  and  mustard. 
When  boiling,  thicken  it  with  the  flour  and  butter  which 
have  been  cooked  together.  This  will  prevent  the  beans 
from  settling.  Season  to  taste.  Cut  the  lemon  and  eggs 
into  thin  slices,  put  them  into  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  hot 
soup  over  them.  Serve  with  croutons. 

Many  think  tomatoes  are  an  improvement.  If  that 
flavor  be  desired,  add  to  the  above  half  a  can  of  tomatoes, 
before  straining.  Others  think  it  is  not  just  right  unless 
a  quarter  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork,  or  some  bones  and  odds 
and  ends  of  meat,  have  been  boiled  with  it.  The  beans 
are  sometimes  boiled  to  quite  a  thick  pulp,  and  after  sifting 
made  of  the  proper  consistency  by  thinning  with  brown 


Pea  Soup.  149 


soup  stock,  and  seasoned  more  highly  with  the  addition 
of  ground  herbs,  spices,  force-meat  balls,  and  wine.  It 
is  then  not  unlike  Mock  Turtle  Soup. 

A  very  good  bean  soup  may  be  made  from  the  remains 
of  baked  beans.  Add  one  quart  of  water  and  a  slice  of 
onion  to  each  pint  of  beans.  Boil  to  a  pulp,  mash,  and 
season.  Or  make  the  soup  of  equal  parts  of  white  beans 
and  canned  or  dried  sweet  corn.  If  dried  corn,  soak  it 
over  night,  chop  it  fine,  and  boil  it  with  the  beans.  If 
canned  corn,  chop  it,  and  add  it  to  the  beans  after 
straining.  But  whichever  way  it  is  prepared,  do  not  boil 
the  beans  in  the  water  in  which  they  were  soaked,  nor 
serve  them  without  straining,  to  remove  the  hulls,  which 
contain  no  nutriment  and  are  indigestible. 


Split  Pea  Soup. 


1  cup  dried  split  peas. 
3  pints  cold  water. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 


%  teaspoonful  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  saltspoonf  ul  white  pepper. 


Pick  over  and  wash  the  peas.  Soak  over  night,  or  for 
several  hours  in  cold  water.  Put  them  on  to  boil  in  three 
pints  of  fresh  cold  water,  and  let  them  simmer  until  dis- 
solved, adding  enough  more  water,  as  it  boils  away,  to 
keep  three  pints  of  liquid  in  the  kettle.  Keep  it  well 
scraped  from  the  sides  of  the  kettle.  When  soft,  rub  through 
a  strainer  and  put  on  to  boil  again.  Add  either  water, 
stock,  milk,  or  cream  to  make  the  consistency  you  wish. 
It  should  be  more  like  a  puree  than  a  soup.  Cook  one 
large  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  of  flour  together, 
and  add  to  the  strained  soup  when  boiling.  Add  the  salt 
and  pepper,  and  when  it  has  simmered  ten  minutes,  serve 
at  once  with  fried  (lice  of  bread. 

This  is  delicious  made  in  this  simple  way.  It  must 
always  be  strained,  and  thickened  with  the  flour  and  but- 
ter, or  it  will  separate  as  it  cools.  It  will  be  smooth,  per- 
fectly free  from  grease;  and  those  who  like  the  natural 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


taste  of  the  peas  prefer  it  to  any  other  way  of  cooking. 
Do  not  think  you  must  boil  more  or  less  salt  pork  with  it, 
as  most  receipts  advise.  It  may  be  varied  in  many  ways, 
by  adding  half  a  can  of  tomatoes  before  straining,  or 
by  boiling  with  the  peas  a  small  onion  which  has  first  been 
cut  fine  and  fried  in  a  little  butter,  or  by  adding  any  rem- 
nants of  bone  or  meat,  being  careful  to  remove  them  before 
straining.  Always  use  the  split  peas,  as  the  hulls  have 
been  removed,  and  they  cook  much  more  quickly  than  the 
whole  peas. 


Green  Pea  Soup. 


1  quart  green  peas. 
1  quart  water. 
1  pint  milk. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 


^  saltspoonful  pepper. 
^  teaspoonful  sugar. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 


Put  the  peas  into  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  and  cook 
until  soft.  Mash  them  in  the  water  in  which  they  were 
boiled,  and  rub  through  a  strainer,  gradually  adding  a  pint 
of  hot  water,  which  will  help  to  separate  the  pulp  from  the 
skins.  Put  on  to  boil  again.  Cook  the  butter  and  flour 
in  a  small  saucepan,  being  careful  not  to  brown  it.  Stir 
it  into  the  boiling  soup.  Add  the  salt,  sugar,  pepper,  and 
the  milk,  which  should  be  hot,  using  enough  milk  to  make 
it  the  consistency  you  prefer.  This  is  a  very  good  way  to 
use  peas  that  are  old  &nd  hard,  and  unfit  to  serve  as  a 
vegetable,  which  is  often  the  case  with  those  that  come 
from  a  market.  When  the  pods  are  fresh,  wash  them 
thoroughly;  allow  more  water,  and  boil  them  with  the 
peas. 

Green  Corn  Soup. 


6  ears  sweet  corn,  or  enough  to 

make  1  pint  raw  pulp. 
Water  to  cover  the  ears. 
1  pint  milk,  or  cream. 


%  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 
1  teaspoonful  sugar. 
1  teaspoonful  flour. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

With  a  very  sharp  knife  scrape  the  thinnest  possible 
shaving  from  each  row  of  kernels,  and  then,  with  the  back 


Vegetable  Soup. 


of  the  knife,  scrape  out  the  pulp,  leaving  the  hull  on  the 
cob.  Break  the  cobs  if  long,  and  put  them  on  to  boil  in 
enough  cold  water  to  cover  them.  Boil  thirty  minutes  and 
strain.  There  should  be  about  one  pint  of  water  after 
straining.  Put  the  corn  water  on  to  boil  again,  and  when 
boiling  add  the  corn  pulp.  Cook  fifteen  minutes.  Add 
the  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  and  the  boiling  milk.  Thicken 
it  with  one  teaspoon ful  of  flour  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  cooked  together.  Boil  five  minutes  and  serve  at 
once. 

Corn  is  better  for  soup  when  it  is  a  little  old  for  the 
table,  and  the  pulp  is  thick  rather  than  milky. 


Vegetable  Soup  (Winter). 


1  cup  each  of  onion  and  carrot. 
1  cup  each  of  turnip  and  parsnip. 
1  pint  each  of  celery  and  potato, 
i^  cup  butter  or  drippings. 
1  teaspoonfui  salt. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 


1  teaspoonfui  sugar. 
1  saltspoonf  ul  white  pepper. 
%  saltspoonful  cayenne  pepper. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 
1  slice  of  bread  crust  toasted  very 
brown. 


Cut  the  onion,  carrot,  turnip,  parsnip,  and  celery  into 
half-inch  dice,  reserving  the  onions  to  fry,  and  the  pota- 
toes to  boil  by  themselves.  Put  the  butter  in  a  stew- 
pan  or  soup  kettle,  and  when  hot  add  the  onions.  After 
frying  them  carefull}'  until  colored  but  not  burned,  add  the 
flour,  and  when  well  mixed  pour  on  gradually  a  pint  of 
hot  water.  Add  the  salt,  pepper,  sugar,  bread,  vegetables 
(except  the  potatoes),  and  enough  boiling  water  to  cover 
all.  Let  them  simmer  two  hours.  Boil  the  potatoes  ten 
minutes,  drain,  and  add  them  to  the  soup.  When  the 
vegetables  are  soft,  rub  all  through  a  strainer.  Add  more 
salt  and  pepper  if  desired,  and  keep  over  hot  water  until 
ready  to  serve. 

A  summer  vegetable  soup  may  be  made  in  a  similar  man- 
ner, using  young  onions,  turnips,  carrots,  and  cauliflower. 
Cut  fine  and  parboil ;  then  cover  with  fresh  boiling  water, 
simmer  until  soft,  mash,  strain,  season,  make  quite  thin 


152  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

with  hot  cream  or  milk,  and  pour  this  over  a  small  quan- 
tity of  tender  green  peas  and  asparagus  tips,  previously 
boiled. 


Fish  Soup. 


1  pound  any  boiled  fish,  — salmon, 

cod,  or  halibut. 
1  quart  milk. 
1  slice  onion. 


1  tablespoonful  butter. 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Cook  the  fish  in  boiling  salted  water,  until  it  flakes 
easily.  Drain  it,  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and  rub 
through  a  coarse  strainer.  Cook  the  onion  with  one 
quart  of  milk  ten  minutes,  remove  the  onion,  and  thicken 
the  milk  with  the  flour  and  butter  cooked  together.  Add 
the  seasoning  and  fish.  Let  it  boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Pur£e  of  Canned  Salmon. 

Remove  the  oil,  bones,  and  skin  from  half  a  can  of 
salmon.  Chop  the  salmon  very  fine.  Boil  one  quart  of 
milk,  and  season  and  thicken  it  as  for  fish  soup.  Add  the 
salmon,  and  when  heated  it  is  ready  to  serve. 

Lobster  Soup,  or  Bisque  of  Lobster. 


2  pounds  lobster. 
1  quart  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

2  tablesp.  flour  or  cornstarch. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 
^  saltspoonful  cayenne  pepper. 
1  pint  water. 


Remove  the  meat  of  the  lobster  from  the  shell,  and  cut 
the  tender  pieces  into  quarter-inch  dice.  Put  the  ends  of 
the  claw  meat  and  any  other  tough,  hard  parts,  with  the 
bones  of  the  body,  into  one  pint  of  cold  water,  and  boil 
twenty  minutes,  adding  more  water  as  it  boils  away.  Put 
the  coral  on  a  piece  of  paper,  and  dry  it  in  the  oven. 
Boil  one  quart  of  milk,  and  thicken  it  with  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  butter  and  two  of  flour  or  cornstarch.  Boil  ten 
minutes.  Strain  the  water  from  the  bones  and  add  it  to 
the  milk.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  using  more  if  high 


Fish  Soups.  153 


seasoning  be  desired.  Rub  the  dried  coral  through  a 
strainer,  using  enough  to  give  the  soup  a  bright  pink  color. 
Put  the  green  fat  and  lobster  dice  into  the  tureen,  and 
strain  the  boiling  soup  over  them.  Serve  immediately. 

If  you  do  not  like  so  much  of  the  lobster  in  the  soup, 
chop  it  all  very  fine,  boil  it  with  the  milk,  and  rub  it 
through  a  squash  or  gravy  strainer.  Many  like  the  addi- 
tional thickening  of  half  a  cup  of  fine  cracker  crumbs. 

This  soup  may  also  be  varied  by  using  one  pint  of  stock, 
either  chicken  or  veal,  and  one  pint  of  milk;  or  by  the 
addition  of  force-meat  balls  made  in  the  following  manner : 
Cut  only  half  of  the  meat  into  dice ;  chop  the  remainder, 
and  pound  it  to  a  fine  paste  with  the  yolks  of  two  hard-boiled 
eggs,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  and  pepper  ;  beat 
one  raw  egg,  and  add  enough  of  it  to  moisten  the  paste  so 
that  it  may  easily  be  made  into  balls  the  size  of  a  nutmeg  ; 
let  them  simmer  in  the  soup  about  five  minutes,  just 
enough  to  cook  the  egg. 

Lobster  Soup,  No.  2. 

The  meat  of  two  small  lobsters,  cut  fine,  one  pint  of  cream, 
one  pint  of  milk.  Simmer  twenty  minutes.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  wet  in  cold  milk.  Salt  and  cayenne  pepper 
to  taste.  Just  before  serving  add  half  a  cup  of  butter,  cut 
into  small  pieces,  and  stir  till  it  is  entirely  absorbed. 
Strain,  and  serve  very  hot. 


Oyster  Soup. 


1  quart  oysters. 

1  pint  milk. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  butter. 


2  tablespoonfuls  flour. 

Salt  to  taste. 

}£  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Put  the  milk  on  to  boil  in  the  double  boiler,  while  you 
prepare  the  oysters.  Place  a  colander  over  a  pan.  Put 
the  oysters  in  a  large  bowl,  and  pour  over  them  one  cup  of 
water.  Take  up  each  oyster  with  the  fingers,  to  make  sure 
no  pieces  of  shell  adhere  to  it,  and  drain  in  the  colander. 
Strain  the  oyster  liquor,  which  has  drained  from  the 


154  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

colander,  through  the  finest  strainer.  Put  it  on  to  boil, 
Remove  the  scuin,  and  when  clear  put  in  the  oysters. 
Let  them  simmer,  but  not  boil,  until  they  begin  to  grow 
plump  and  the  edges  to  curl  or  separate.  Strain  the  liquor 
into  the  milk,  and  put  the  oysters  where  they  will  keep 
hot,  but  not  cook.  Thicken  the  milk  with  the  butter  and 
flour,  which  have  been  cooked  together ;  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste  (the  amount  of  salt  depending  upon  the 
saltness  of  the  oysters).  Boil  five  minutes  ;  add  the  oys- 
ters and  serve  at  once.  This  receipt  may  be  varied  "by 
boiling  one  cup  of  fine  chopped  celery  and  a  small  slice  of 
onion  with  the  milk  ten  minutes  ;  then  straining  and  thick- 
ening it  with  half  a  cup  of  powdered  cracker.  Add  the 
butter,  the  seasoning,  and  the  parboiled  oysters.  Serve 
at  once. 

Oyster   Stew    is    made   like   oyster   soup,    without    the 
thickening. 

Clam  Soup. 


%  peck  clams  in  the  shell. 

Salt  to  taste. 

1  saltspoonful  pepper. 

i^  saltspoonful  cayenne  pepper. 


1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  butter. 

2  heaping  tablespoonf  uls  flour. 
1  pint  milk  or  cream. 


1  tablespoonful  chopped  onion. 

Prepare  the  clams  by  boiling  in  the  shells,  and  cutting 
as  directed  for  clam  chowder,  keeping  the  soft  part  sepa- 
rate from  the  hard.  Pour  off  one  quart  of  the  clam  liquor 
after  it  settles,  being  careful  not  to  take  any  of  the  sedi- 
ment ;  put  it  on  to  boil,  and  remove  the  scum.  Add  one 
pint  of  hot  water,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  cay- 
enne, onion,  and  parsley.  Put  in  the  hard  part  of  the 
clams.  Simmer  fifteen  minutes,  strain,  and  boil  again, 
and  when  boiling  thicken  with  the  flour  cooked  in  the 
butter.  Add  the  hot  milk  or  cream,  and  the  soft  part  of 
the  clams  ;  serve  at  once,  with  crackers  and  pickles. 

Another  method  of  preparing  ^clam  soup,  if  needed 
quickly  :  Heat  the  clam  broth  to  a  boiling  point ;  add  the 
clams  cut  fine  ;  season,  and  pour  into  the  tureen  over  two 
eggs  beaten  up  with  the  boiling  milk. 


Fish  Chowder.  155 


The  clam  broth  served  hot  with  toasted  crackers  will  ofteb 
tempt  a  person  with  a  capricious  appetite. 

Fish  Chowder. 


4  or  5  pounds  cod  or  haddock  or 

bass. 

6  potatoes. 

A  2-inch  cube  of  fat  salt  pork. 
2  small  onions. 


1  tablespoonful  salt. 

%  teaspoonful  white  pepper. 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  quart  milk. 

6  butter  crackers. 


When  buying  a  fish  for  a  chowder,  have  the  head  left  on 
but  the  skin  removed  ;  or  if  you  have  to  depend  upon  your 
self,  remove  the  skin  according  to  directions  on  page  161. 
Then  begin  at  the  tail  and  cut  the  fish  from  the  bone  on 
one  side,  keeping  the  knife  as  close  as  possible  to  the 
bone ;  remove  the  bone  from  the  other  side.  Do  not  for- 
get to  take  out  the  small  bones  near  the  head.  Wipe  the 
fish  carefully  with  a  damp  cloth,  cut  it  into  pieces  about 
two  inches  square,  and  put  it  away  in  a  cool  place.  Break 
the  bones  and  head,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  put  them 
on  to  boil.  Pare  and  slice  the  potatoes  one  eighth  of  an 
inch  thick,  using  enough  to  make  the  same  quantity  by 
measurement  as  3*ou  have  of  fish.  Soak  them  in  cold  water 
half  an  hour,  and  parboil  or  scald  in  boiling  water  five 
minutes ;  then  pour  off  the  water.  Cut  the  pork  into 
quarter-inch  dice,  and  fry  it  in  an  omelet  pan.  Cut  the 
onions  into  thin  slices  and  fry  them  in  the  pork  fat,  being 
careful  that  it  does  not  burn.  Pour  the  fat  through  a 
strainer  into  the  kettle,  leaving  the  pork  scraps  and  onions 
in  the  strainer.  Put  the  sliced  potatoes  into  the  kettle ; 
hold  the  strainer  over  the  potatoes,  and  pour  through  it 
enough  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  This  is  easier  than 
to  fry  in  the  kettle,  and  skim  out  the  pork  and  onions,  — 
which  to  a  novice  would  be  running  the  risk  of  burning  the 
fat,  cleaning  the  kettle,  and  beginning  again.  When  the 
potatoes  have  boiled  ten  minutes,  strain  the  water  in  which 
the  bones  were  boiled,  and  pour  it  into  the  kettle.  Add 
the  salt  and  pepper,  and  when  the  chowder  is  boiling 
briskly,  put  in  the  fish,  and  set  it  back  where  it  can  sim- 


156  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

mer  ten  minutes.  Do  not  break  the  fish  by  stirring  it. 
Add  the  butter  and  the  hot  milk.  Split  the  crackers,  put 
them  in  the  tureen,  and  pour  the  chowder  over  them.  Do 
not  soak  the  crackers  in  cold  water.  Butter  crackers  will 
soften  easily  in  the  hot  chowder.  If  you  wish  the  broth 
thicker,  stir  in  one  cup  of  fine  cracker  crumbs,  or  one 
tablespoonful  of  flour  cooked  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter. 
More  milk  and  a  little  more  seasoning  may  be  added  to 
this  amount  of  fish  and  potato,  if  you  wish  to  make  a  larger 
quantity.  When  wanted  richer,  beat  two  eggs,  mix  them 
with  the  hot  milk,  and  put  in  the  tureen  before  turning  in 
the  chowder.  If  added  while  the  chowder  is  in  the  hot 
kettle,  the  eggs  will  curdle.  Any  firm  white  fish  may  be 
used  for  a  chowder,  but  cod  and  haddock  are  best.  Many 
use  a  cod's  head  with  the  haddock.  The  head  is  rich  and 
gelatinous,  and  it  should  always  be  boiled  with  the  bones, 
and  the  liquor  added  to  the  chowder.  In  this  chowder  you 
have  nothing  but  what  the  most  dainty  person  may  relish. 
There  are  no  bones,  skin,  or  scraps  of  boiled  pork.  Fish, 
potatoes,  and  crackers  are  all  distinct  in  the  creamy  liquid, 
instead  of  being  a  pasty  mush,  such  as  is  often  served. 
For  a  change,  the  crackers  may  be  buttered  and  browned. 

If  a  highly  seasoned  dish  be  desired,  boil  an  onion,  cut 
into  thin  slices,  with  the  potatoes ;  add  more  pepper,  and 
either  cayenne  pepper,  Worcestershire  sauce,  or  curry 
powder.  Omit  the  boiling  water,  and  use  only  that  in 
which  the  bones  were  boiled,  when  making  a  smaller 
quantity. 

Clam  Chowder. 


%  peck  clams  in  the  shells. 
1  quart  potatoes,  sliced  thin. 
A  2-inch  cube  of  fat  salt  pork. 
1  or  2  onions. 


%  teaspoonful  white  pepper. 
1  large  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  quart  milk. 
6  butter  crackers. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

Clam  chowder  is  made  in  the  same  manner  as  fish 
chowder,  substituting  half  a  peck  of  clams  for  the  fish. 
Clams  in  the  shells  are  better,  as  you  then  have  more 
clam  liquor.  Wash  with  a  small  brush,  and  put  them 


Choivder.  157 


in  a  large  kettle  with  half  a  cupful  of  water,  or  just  enough 
to  keep  the  under  ones  from  burning ;  set  them  over  the 
fire.  When  the  clams  at  the  top  have  opened,  take  them 
out  with  a  skimmer,  and  when  cool  enough  to  handle,  take 
the  clams  from  the  shell ;  remove  the  thin  skin ;  then  with 
scissors  cut  off  all  the  black  end,  cut  the  "  leather  straps  " 
into  small  pieces,  leaving  the  soft  pail  whole.  Let  the 
clam  liquor  settle,  and  pour  it  off  carefully.  Use  half 
water  and  half  clam  liquor.  Fry  the  pork  and  onion  the 
same  as  in  fish  chowder ;  add  the  potatoes,  which  have  been 
soaked  and  scalded,  and  boiling  water  to  cover.  When 
the  potatoes  are  soft,  add  the  clam  liquor,  the  seasoning, 
and  the  clams ;  when  warmed  through,  add  the  hot  milk 
and  turn  into  the  tureen.  Do  not  put  the  clams  into  the 
chowder  until  the  potatoes  are  nearly  done,  as  prolonged 
boiling  hardens  them. 

Corn  Chowder. 


1  quart  raw  sweet  corn. 

1  pint  sliced  potatoes. 

A  2-inch  cube  fat  salt  pork. 

1  onion. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 


1  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 
1  large  tablespoonful  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 
1  pint  sliced  tomatoes. 
1  pint  milk. 


Scrape  the  raw  corn  from  the  cob.  Boil  the  cobs  twenty 
minutes  in  water  enough  to  cover  them  ;  then  skim  them 
out.  Pare,  soak,  and  scald  the  potatoes.  Fry  the  onion 
in  the  salt  pork  fat,  and  strain  the  fat  into  the  kettle  with 
the  corn  water.  Add  the  potatoes,  corn,  salt,  and  pepper. 
Simmer  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  the  potatoes  and  corn  are 
tender.  Add  the  butter  and  milk,  and  serve  very  hot 
with  crisped  crackers. 


Lobster  Chowder. 


1  pound  lobster. 
1  quart  milk. 
3  crackers. 


1  scant  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 

%  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 

%  saltspoonful  cayenne  pepper. 


%  cup  butter. 

Boil  one  quart  of  milk.     Roll  three  crackers  fine ;  mix 
with  them  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  butter,  and  the  green  fat 


158  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

of  the  lobster.  Season  with  one  scant  teaspoon ful  of 
salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  and  one  fourth 
of  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper.  Pour  the  boiling 
milk  gradually  over  the  paste.  Put  it  back  in  the  double 
boiler ;  add  the  lobster  meat  cut  into  dice ;  let  it  boil  up 
once,  and  serve. 

Puree  of  Clams. 

One  pint  of  boiled  clams ;  remove  the  dark  substance 
from  the  soft  part,  and  chop  the  hard  part  very  fine. 
Thicken  one  pint  of  hot  cream  with  one  tablespoonful  of  flour 
cooked  in  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  hot  butter ;  add  the 
chopped  clams,  the  soft  parts,  and  salt  and  pepper.  Add 
more  hot  cream  or  a  little  of  the  clam  liquor  if  the  puree 
be  too  thick.  When  hot,  strain  it  into  the  tureen. 


Corn-bouillon. 


3  onions. 

2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 
1  tablespoonful  flour. 
1  cup  claret,  or 


Yz  cup  vinegar. 

1  pint  beef  stock. 

2  pounds  fish,  sliced. 
4  tomatoes. 


Fry  the  sliced  onions  in  the  butter  in  the  bottom  of  the 
stewpan ;  be  careful  not  to  burn  them  ;  add  the  flour, 
mix  well;  add  gradually  the  stock,  and,  when  smooth, 
put  in  half  the  fish,  then  half  the  tomatoes  peeled  and 
sliced,  and  the  wine  or  vinegar;  then  another  layer  of 
fish  and  tomatoes.  Simmer  half  an  hour.  The  fish 
should  be  skinned  and  boned. 

Cherry  Soup. 

Soups  made  from  fruit  juices  only  slightly  sweetened, 
thickened  with  arrowroot  and  served  cold  in  bouillon  cups 
are  quite  acceptable  in  hot  days.  Allow  one  pint  of  water 
to  a  pint  of  fruit.  Stew,  mash,  and  sift  the  fruit,  sweeten 
and  thicken  slightly,  then  boil  till  clear.  Some  fruits  re- 
quire a  little  lemon  juice  or  wine.  Add  chipped  ice  and 
serve  with  zwieback  or  toasted  wafers. 


Fish*  159 


FISH. 

FISH,  on  account  of  its  abundance,  cheapness,  and 
wholesomeness,  is  invaluable  as  an  article  of  food.  It  is 
less  nutritious  and  less  stimulating  than  meat,  as  it  con- 
tains less  solid  matter  and  more  water.  An  exaggerated 
idea  of  the  value  of  fish  as  brain  food  has  prevailed  ;  the 
latest  authorities,  however,  state  that  there  is  no  evidence 
to  prove  that  fish  is  any  richer  than  meat  in  phosphorus. 
But  as  it  contains  little  fat,  the  white  varieties  particularly, 
it  is  easily  digested,  and  as  it  has  a  large  proportion  of 
nitrogenous  material,  it  is  especially  adapted  to  all  those 
upon  whom  there  are  great  demands  for  nervous  energy. 

Salmon  heads  the  list  "  of  whatsoever  hath  scales  and 
fins,"  in  nutritive  qualities ;  and  it  is  richer  than  meat. 
The  next  in  value  are  fat  halibut,  shad,  white-fish,  mack- 
erel, blue-fish,  lean  halibut,  bass,  flounder,  trout,  cod, 
haddock,  cusk,  etc. 

Red-blooded  fish,  like  salmon,  mackerel,  and  blue-fish, 
have  the  oil  distributed  through  the  body.  They  are 
nutritious  for  those  who  can  digest  them,  but  are  too  rich 
and  oil}'  for  invalids.  White  fish,  like  flounder,  halibut, 
cod,  and  haddock,  have  the  oil  in  the  liver,  and  are  more 
easily  digested.  Fish  should  be  perfectly  fresh  and  thor- 
oughly cooked,  or  it  will  be  very  indigestible  and  some- 
times poisonous.  Broiling  and  baking  are  the  best  methods. 
Small  pan-fish  and  fillets  of  large  white  dry  fish  are  good 
if  fried  ;  but  oil}'  fish  should  never  be  fried.  Salting  draws 
out  the  nutritive  part  of  fish  the  same  as  it  does  in  meat ; 
and  either,  when  thus  prepared,  should  be  used  as  a  relish, 
and  not  depended  upon  for  nourishment.  Fat  fish  are 
injured  less  than  white  fish,  as  the  fat  is  not  removed  by 
salting. 


i6o  The  Boston  Cook  Book, 

All  varieties  of  fish  need  an  accompaniment  of  starchy 
foods,  like  bread  and  potatoes  ;  and  white  fish  need  beside 
to  be  cooked  with  butter  or  fat  to  make  them  desirable  as 
food.  The  juices  of  fish,  shell-fish  particularly,  are  of  an 
alkaline  nature ;  and  this  renders  lemon  juice  or  vinegar 
a  desirable  condiment  as  a  neutralizing  agenc}T. 

The  flesh  of  good,  fresh  fish  is  firm  and  hard,  and  will 
rise  at  once  when  pressed  with  the  finger.  If  the  eyes  be 
dull  and  sunken,  the  gills  pale,  and  the  flesh  flabby  or 
soft,  the  fish  is  not  fresh. 

Fish  should  be  cleaned  as  soon  as  possible,  in  strongly 
salted  water.  They  should  be  washed  (not  soaked)  by 
wiping  with  a  cloth  wet  in  salt  water.  Then  wrap  them 
if*  a  cloth  which  is  sprinkled  with  salt,  and  put  them  in 
a  cool  place.  If  put  in  the  ice-chest,  they  will  taint  the 
butter  and  milk.  Put  ice  around  them,  if  necessary  ;  but 
do  not  let  them  touch  the  ice,  as  fresh  water  and  ice  will 
soften  them.  When  once  they  lose  their  hard,  firm  con- 
sistency, they  are  considered  unfit  to  eat  by  those  who 
know  what  good  fish  really  are. 

Frozen  fish  should  be  thawed  in  cold  water.  Fresh- 
water fish  having  a  muddy  taste  or  smell  are  improved  by 
soaking  in  salt  and  water.  Salt  fish  should  be  soaked  in 
fresh  water,  with  the  skin  side  up,  to  draw  out  the  salt, 
and  should  be  eaten  only  occasionally,  for  the  reason 
before  stated. 

To  Chan  a  Fish.  —  If  the  fish  have  scales,  remove  them 
before  opening.  Scrape  with  a  small,  sharp  knife  from 
the  tail  to  the  head ;  hold  the  knife  flat  and  slanting, 
resting  rfc  on  the  fish,  that  the  scales  may  be  taken 
upon  the  knife ;  scrape  slowly,  that  the  scales  may  not 
fly  over  everything  near,  and  rinse  the  knife  often  in  cold 
water. 

When  the  fish  is  to  be  served  whole,  do  not  remove  the 
head  and  tail.  Smelts  and  small  fish  served  whole  are 
opened  under  the  gills,  and  the  contents  squeezed  out  by 
pressing  from  the  middle  with  the  thumb  and  finger.  Large 
fish  are  split  open  from  the  gills  half-way  down  the  lowet 


Fish.  161 

part  of  the  bod}*,  the  entrails  removed,  and  the  inside 
scraped  and  cleaned.  Open  far  enough  to  remove  all  the 
blood  on  the  backbone.  Many  leave  the  sound,  which  is 
the  white  part  adhering  to  the  bone ;  but  it  is  better  to 
remove  it. 

To  Skin  a  Fish.  —  Cut  a  thin,  narrow  strip  down  the 
backbone,  taking  off  the  dorsal  fin.  Then  open  the  lower 
part  half-way  down.  Slip  the  knife  under  and  up  through 
the  bony  part  of  the  gills,  and  hold  this  bony  part  between 
the  thumb  and  finger,  and  strip  the  skin  off  toward  the 
tail.  Then  do  the  same  on  the  other  side. 

Small  fish,  like  mackerel  and  white-fish,  when  dressed 
for  broiling,  should  be  split  through  the  back. 

To  Bone  a  Fish.  —  Clean,-  and  strip  off  the  skin  ;  lay  the 
fish  flat  on  a  board ;  begin  at  the  tail,  and  run  the  knife  in 
under  the  flesh  close  to  the  bone,  and  scrape  it  away  clean 
from  the  bone,  holding  the  flesh  carefully,  not  to  break 
the  flakes.  When  the  flesh  on  one  side  is  removed,  slip 
the  knife  under  the  bone  on  the  other  side,  and  raise  the 
bone,  leaving  the  flesh  on  the  board ;  then  pull  out  all  the 
small  bones  left  in  the  flesh,  which  you  can  easily  feel  with 
the  fingers.  Fish  with  many  fine  bones,  like  shad  and  her- 
ring, are  not  boned  ;  but  from  cod,  cusk,  mackerel,  white- 
fish,  and  haddock  they  may  be  easily  removed. 

Fillets  of  Fish  are  the  flesh  separated  from  the  bone,  and 
served  whole  or  divided,  as  the  case  may  require.  Floun- 
ders or  sole,  chicken  halibut,  and  bass,  should  have  the 
fillets  on  each  side  divided  lengthwise ;  making  four  long 
thin  pieces,  or  fillets.  Other  fish  are  cut  into  thin  slices 
or  small  squares.  Very  small  fish  may  be  split,  the  bone 
removed,  and  the  whole  fish  rolled  up  from  the  tail  to  the 
head  and  fastened  with  a  skewer. 

Broiled  Fish. 

First  clean  the  fish.  Wash  with  a  cloth  wet  in  salt  water- 
and  dry  on  a  clean  fish  towel,  kept  for  no  other  purpose. 
Mackerel,  white-fish,  small  blue-fish,  trout,  small  cod,  and 

ii 


1 62  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

shad  should  be  split  down  the  back,  and  if  you  prefer,  cut 
off  the  head  and  tail.  Halibut  and  salmon  should  be  cut 
into  inch  slices,  the  skin  and  bone  removed,  and  turned 
often  while  broiling.  Cut  flounder,  bass,  and  chicken  hal- 
ibut into  fillets.  Oily  fish  need  only  salt  and  pepper ;  but 
dry  white-fish  should  be  spread  with  soft  butter  or  olive  oil 
before  broilkisy. 

Use  a  double  wire  broiler,  and  grease  well  with  salt  pork 
rind.  Put  the  thickest  edge  of  the  fish  next  the  middle  of 
the  broiler,  and  always  broil  the  flesh  side  first,  as  the  skin 
burns  easihr.  Cook  the  flesh  side  until  it  is  brown.  The 
time  should  vary  with  the  thickness  of  the  fish  ;  move  the 
broiler  up  and  down,  that  all  parts  may  be  equally  browned  ; 
then  turn,  and  cook  on  the  other  side  just  enough  to  crisp 
the  skin.  Small  fish  require  from  five  to  ten  minutes ; 
thicker  fish,  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes.  The  fire  should  be 
hot  and  clear.  If  the  fish  be  very  thick,  hold  it  farther 
from  the  fire ;  or  when  nicely  browned,  put  the  broiler  in 
the  oven  on  a  dripping-pan,  and  cook  till  the  flesh  sepa- 
rates easily  from  the  bones.  Mackerel,  trout,  and  fresh 
herring  are  sometimes  broiled  whole.  Clean  without  open- 
ing more  than  is  necessary.  Wipe  and  dry  well.  Gash 
through  to  the  bone  at  intervals  one  inch  apart  on  each  side, 
and  rub  salt,  pepper,  and  butter  or  oil  in  the  incisions  ;  wrap 
in  buttered  paper,  and  broil  carefull}r  from  ten  to  twenty 
minutes.  When  ready  to  serve,  loosen  the  fish  from  the 
broiler  on  each  side,  open  the  broiler,  and,  leaving  the  flesh 
side  of  the  fish  uppermost,  slide  it  off  without  breaking.  Or 
open  the  opposite  way,  hold  a  platter  over  the  skin  side, 
and  invert  platter  and  broiler  together.  Spread  with  butter, 
salt,  and  pepper ;  or  add  chopped  parsley  or  watercresses ; 
or  serve  with  Maitre  d'hotel,  Tartare,  Tomato,  or  Curry 
sauce.  Garnish  with  parsley  and  slices  of  lemon. 

Baked  Fish. 

Cod,  haddock,  cusk,  blue-fish,  smaii  salmon,  bass,  and 
shad  may  be  stuffed,  and  baked  whole. 


Baked  Fish.  163 


Stuffing  for  Baked  Fish  weighing  from  four  to  six  Pounds. 
1  cup  cracker  crumbs. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 

7  saltspoonful  pepper. 

1  teaspoonful  chopped  onion. 


1  teaspoonful  chopped  parsley. 
1  teaspoonful  capers. 
1  teaspoonful  pickles. 
%  cup  melted  butter. 


This  makes  a  dry,  crumbty  stuffing.  If  a  moist  stuffing 
be  desired,  use  stale  (not  dried)  bread  crumbs,  and  moisten 
with  one  beaten  egg  and  the  butter  ;  or  moisten  the  crackers 
with  warm  water. 

Oyster  Stuffing.  —  One  pint  of  oysters,  one  cup  of  seasoned 
and  buttered  cracker  crumbs.  Drain  and  roll  each  oyster  in 
the  crumbs.  Fill  the  fish  with  the  oysters,  and  sprinkle 
the  remainder  of  the  crumbs  over  the  oysters. 

General  Directions.  —  Fish  bake  through  more  evenly, 
brown  better,  and  are  more  easily  served,  if  placed  upright 
in  the  pan  instead  of  on  one  side.  Fish  that  are  broad 
and  short,  like  shad,  may  be  kept  in  place  by  propping 
with  stale  bread  or  pared  potatoes.  But  all  others  that  are 
naiTOw  in  proportion  to  the  length  may  be  skewered  or 
tied  into  the  shape  of  a  letter  S  ;  run  a  threaded  trussing- 
needle  through  the  head,  middle  of  the  body  and  tail  in 
the  direction  indicated  by  the  dotted  line  above ;  then 
draw  the  string  tight,  and  fasten  the  ends.  Fish  thus 
prepared  will  keep  their  shape  after  baking. 

Have  an  iron  sheet  with  rings  at  the  ends  for  handles, 
and  just  large  enough  to  fit  into  the  dripping-pan.  Rub 
the  sheet  well  with  salt  pork,  and  put  pieces  of  pork  under 
the  fish  to  keep  it  from  sticking.  This  sheet  will  enable 
you  to  lift  the  fish  from  the  pan  and  place  it  on  the  platter 
without  breaking.  If  you  have  no  sheet,  put  two  broad 
strips  of  cotton  cloth  across  the  pan,  before  laying  in  the 
fish.  When  done,  lift  out  on  the  cloth.  Do  not  put  water 
in  the  pan,  unless  you  wish  to  steam  instead  of  bake  the 
fish.  Put  two  or  three  slices  cf  fat  salt  pork  over  and 
near  the  fish,  and  when  the  floui  has  browned,  baste 
often  with  the  pork  fat.  Bake  till  brown,  and  baste 
often. 


164  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

No.  1. — Clean,  wipe,  and  dry  the  fish;  rub  with  salt; 
stuff  and  sew.  Cut  gashes  two  inches  apart  on  each  side. 
Skewer  into  shape  of  S,  and  put  it  on  the  fish  sheet.  Rub 
all  over  with  soft  butter,  salt,  and  pepper.  Put  narrow  strips 
of  fat  salt  pork  in  the  gashes.  Dredge  well  with  flour. 
Put  it  into  a  hot  oven  without  water;  baste  when  the 
flour  is  browned,  and  baste  often  afterwards.  Remove  it 


FIG.  7.    Baked  Pish. 

carefully  from  the  fish  sheet,  and  place  it  on  a  hot  platter. 
Draw  out  the  strings  or  skewer,  wipe  off  all  the  water  or 
fat  which  runs  from  the  fish,  and  remove  the  pieces  of 
pork.  Pour  Hollandaise  sauce  around  (not  over)  the 
fish,  or  serve  a  drawn  butter  sauce  flavored  with  lemon, 
in  a  sauce-boat ;  and  pile  Saratoga  potatoes  lightly  around 
the  fish.  Garnish  the  head  of  the  fish  with  parsley  or 
watercresses. 

To  serve  the  Fish.  —  Make  an  incision  along  the  backbone 
the  entire  length  of  the  fish  ;  then  draw  the  fish  away  from 
the  bone  on  each  side,  cutting  at  right  angles  with  the 
bone.  Raise  the  bone  to  reach  the  stuffing,  and  serve  a 
little  of  the  fish,  stuffing,  and  sauce  to  each  person.  The 
skeleton  should  be  left  entire  on  the  platter. 

No.  2.  —  Remove  the  head,  tail,  and  skin.  Rub  well  with 
salt  and  lemon  juice.  Stuff  with  oyster  stuffing,  and  sew 
securely.  Skewer  it  into  shape,  if  long  enough,  or  put 
it  upright  on  a  greased  fish  sheet,  with  bread  to  keep 
it  in  place.  Or  remove  the  bone,  place  the  fish  on  a 
platter,  and  lay  the  prepared  oysters  between  the  layers 
of  fish.  Season  cracker  crumbs  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
chopped  parsley,  and  moisten  with  melted  butter.  Brush  the 


Fried  Fish.  165 


fish  with  beaten  egg,  then  sprinkle  with  the  crumbs.  Set 
the  platter  in  the  oven  over  a  pan  of  hot  water  to  keep  the 
platter  from  cracking.  Bake  from  forty  to  sixty  minutes. 
Serve  with  tomato  or  Hollandaise  sauce  poured  around 
the  fish. 

No.  3.  Baked  Halibut.  —  Three  or  four  pounds  of  halibut. 
Dip  the  dark  skin  in  boiling  water,  and  scrape  clean.  Rub 
well  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  it  into  a  clean  pan,  and 
pour  milk  over  it  till  half  an  inch  deep.  Bake  about  an 
hour,  basting  with  the  milk.  Remove  the  bone  and  skin, 
and  arrange  on  the  platter  in  the  original  form.  Serve 
with  plain  drawn  butter,  egg  sauce,  or  cream  sauce,  and 
garnish  with  slices  of  boiled  eggs.  The  milk  keeps  the 
fish  moist,  is  a  good  substitute  for  pork,  and  makes  the 
fish  brown  better.  Use  just  enough  milk  to  baste,  and 
let  it  cook  away  toward  the  last  Or  sprinkle  buttered 
crumbs  over  the  top,  when  the  fish  is  nearly  done,  and 
serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

A  large  cod,  or  any  whole  fish  too  large  for  a  small 
family,  may  be  cooked  as  follows :  Remove  the  skin  and 
bones  from  the  middle  and  thickest  part ;  stuff  and  bake. 
Use  the  bones  and  head  for  a  chowder.  Cut  the  tail 
piece  into  slices,  salt  well,  and  fry  or  broil  them.  Or  crimp 
them  by  soaking  in  salted  water ;  then  simmer  in  water 
with  salt  and  lemon  juice,  and  serve  cold  with  Tartare 
sauce. 

Fried  Fish. 

•Mackerel,  salmon,  blue-fish,  and  all  oily  fish  should 
never  be  fried.  Smelts,  perch,  and  other  small  pan-fish 
may  be  fried  whole.  When  fried  smelts  are  used  as  a 
garnish,  fry  them  in  the  shape  of  rings  by  pinning  the  tail 
in  the  mouth.  Cod,  halibut,  etc.,  should  be  skinned  and 
boned,  and  cut  into  slices  one  inch  thick  and  two  or  three 
inches  square.  Flounder  and  bass  may  be  cut  in  fillets,  as 
described  on  page  161,  and  each  fillet  seasoned  with  salt 
and  pepper,  and  fastened  with  a  small  wooden  skewer. 
Small  fish  may  be  boned  without  parting  in  the  middle. 


1 66  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  rolled  from  tail  to  head.  Fish  for  frying  should  be 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  dried,  seasoned  with  salt  and 
pepper,  and  covered  first  with  flour  or  fine  bread  crumbs, 
then  dipped  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  crumbs  again.  If  this 
does  not  cover  them  completely,  repeat  the  process. 

When  the  fish  has  been  kept  on  ice,  let  it  become  slightly 
warm  before  frying,  as  otherwise  it  will  chill  the  fat  and 
become  greasy.  Fry  in  deep,  smoking  hot  fat.  Observe 
the  directions  given  for  frying  on  page  15,  testing  the  fat 
first  with  bread ;  and  after  the  first  plunge  into  the  hot  fat 
set  the  kettle  back  to  keep  from  burning ;  then  reheat 
before  frying  any  more.  Fry  from  two  to  five  minutes. 
Drain  and  serve  with  tomato,  or  Tartare,  or  any  acid 
sauce.  Garnish  with  slices  of  pickle  or  lemon,  and 
parsley. 

Arrange   small  fish  with  heads  and  tails   alternating; 

or  two  or  three  on  a 
skewer,  one  skewer 
for  each  person  ;  or 
in  a  circle  round  a 

PIG.  8.    Small  Fish  served  whole.  silver  CUP>   P^Ced  ill 

the    centre    of    the 

platter  and  holding  the  sauce.  Slices  or  rolled  fillets  may 
be  arranged  in  a  circle,  with  the  sauce  in  the  centre. 

Boiled  Fish. 

Boiling  is  the  most  insipid  and  wasteful  way  of  cooking 
fish.  To  make  boiled  fish  palatable,  a  rich  sauce,  like 
lobster,  oyster,  or  shrimp  sauce,  is  needed  for  all  kinds 
except  salmon  and  blue-fish.  Salmon  is  so  much  richer 
and  more  oily  than  other  fish  that  boiling  does  not  injure 
it.  Hollandaise  and  sauce  piquante  are  appropriate  for 
salmon.  A  fish  kettle  with  a  drainer  for  lifting  out  the 
fish  is  quite  essential.  Or  you  may  put  a  small  piece  of 
fish  in  a  wire  basket  or  on  a  plate ;  tie  the  plate  in  a 
square  of  cloth,  and  lift  cloth,  plate,  and  fish  together. 
Never  try  to  boil  a  fish  whole,  as  nothing  can  be  more 


Boiled  Fish.  167 


unsightly  than  the  head  of  a  boiled  fish.  Clean  the  fish 
thoroughly,  and  remove  the  head,  tail,  and  skin.  Rub 
well  ^ith  salt  and  lemon  juice.  Fish  should  be  of  uniform 
thickness,  to  boil  nicely.  A  small  salmon  or  the  middle  cut  / 
of  a  large  one,  or  the  thickest  part  of  cod  or  blue-fish,  or  a 
thick  piece  of  halibut,  should  be  selected  for  boiling.  Cod, 
haddock,  and  cusk,  unless  perfectly  fresh,  will  break  in 
boiling. 

If  fish  be  put  into  cold  water,  the  juices  are  drawn  out 
into  the  water.  If  cooked  in  rapidly  boiling  water,  the 
fish  breaks  on  the  outside  before  the  middle  is  done.  The 
best  and  most  economical  way  is  to  cook  it  in  a  steamer 
over  boiling  water.  If  that  is  not  convenient,  put  the 
fish  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  simmer  till  done.  Fish 
is  cooked  when  the  flesh  separates  easily  from  the  bones, 
and  should  be  taken  up  immediately,  and  well  drained  be- 
fore serving.  A  very  good  way  of  boiling  fish  is  to  steep 
it  for  five  minutes  in  strongly  salted  boiling  water,  with  one 
or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  then  plunge  it  into 
fresh  boiling  water  without  salt,  and  simmer  till  done. 
Less  scum  rises  in  the  fresh  water,  and  the  fish  looks 
whiter.  Allow  about  six  minutes  to  a  pound  for  boiling ; 
more  if  in  a  cubical  form  than  for  a  thin  narrow  piece  of 
the  same  weight. 

Serve  boiled  fish  on  a  folded  napkin,  and  the  sauce  in  a 
sauce-boat.  Parisienne  potatoes  boiled  or  fried  and  piled 
h'ke  cannon  balls,  alternating  with  parsley  and  button 
mushrooms ;  or  sliced  pickles,  fried  oysters,  Saratoga  po- 
tatoes, slices  of  lemon,  or  hard-boiled  eggs  ma}r  be  used 
as  a  garnish.  If  the  fish  break  and  look  unsightly,  re- 
move the  bones,  and  flake  it ;  pile  it  lightly  on  a  platter, 
and  pour  the  sauce  over  the  fish. 

To  boil  Fish  au  Court  Bouillon.  — Fish  are  improved  by 
cooking  in  water  flavored  with  vegetables  and  spices. 
Mince  one  onion,  one  stalk  of  celery,  and  two  or  three  sprigs 
of  parsley.  Fry  them  in  a  little  butter ;  add  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  salt,  six  peppercorns,  a  bay  leaf,  three  cloves,  two 
quarts  of  boiling  water,  and  one  pint  of  vinega*  or  sour 


1 68  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

wine.  Boil  fifteen  minutes,  skim  well,  strain,  and  keep 
to  use  in  boiling  fish.  Rub  the  fish  with  salt  and  lemon 
juice,  and  put  it  into  the  boiling  liquor,  and  simmer  till 
the  flesh  separates  from  the  bone. 

Stewed  Fish.  —  Any  dry  white  fish  or  fresh-water  fish 
may  be  stewed,  and  made  into  a  very  palatable  and  eco- 
nomical dish.  Remove  the  skin,  head,  and  bones  from 
a  four-pound  fish.  Cover  the  bones  and  head  with  cold 
water,  and  cook  them  for  half  an  hour.  Slice  and  scald 
two  small  onions.  Drain,  and  fry  them  till  yellow,  in  the 
fat  obtained  from  a  two-inch  cube  of  salt  pork.  Pour  it  all 
into  the  kettle  with  the  bones.  Cut  the  fish  into  pieces 
two  inches  square,  and  season  them  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Put  them  in  a  clean  kettle  with  a  little  butter  to  keep  them 
from  sticking,  and  strain  the  boiling  bone  water  over 
them,  using  just  enough  to  cover.  Add  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon,  and  when  boiling  thicken  with  one  heaping  table- 
spoonful  of  butter  and  two  of  flour  cooked  together.  Sim- 
mer fifteen  minutes.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  parsley,  and  tomato  or 
mushroom  catchup,  if  desired ;  or  add  one  quart  of  drained 
oysters,  and  simmer  till  the  O3rsters  are  plump.  A  Matelote 
of  fish  is  the  French  name  for  fish  stewed  with  wine. 

Fish  a  la  Creme. 

Four  to  six  pounds  of  fish,  one  to  one  and  a  half  pints  of 
cream  sauce,  and  one  cup  of  cracker  crumbs,  moistened  in 
one  third  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter. 

This  is  one  of  the  most  attractive  and  convenient 
methods  of  serving  any  kind  of  dry  white  fish,  —  cod,  had- 
dock, or  cusk.  Clean  the  fish ;  cook  in  boiling  salted 
water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  till  the  flesh  sepa- 
rates easily.  Drain,  and  when  cool  remove  the  skin  and 
bones,  and  pick  apart  in  flakes.  Sprinkle 'well  with  salt 
and  pepper.  Make  a  rich  white  sauce.  Put  a  layev  of 
fish  on  a  platter  suitable  for  serving.  Cover  with  the 
white  sauce,  letting  the  fish  soak  up  all  it  will ;  then  arrange 


Fish  Left   Overs.  169 


another  la}rer  of  fish  and  sauce.  Moisten  cracker  crumbs 
in  melted  butter,  and  spread  over  the  top  with  a  fork. 
Set  the  platter  in  the  oven  over  a  pan  of  hot  water,  to 
keep  the  platter  from  cracking,  and  bake  till  the  crumbs 
are  brown.  Garnish  with  parsley.  The  whites  of  two  or 
three  eggs,  beaten  stiff  and  salted,  are  sometimes  used  in 
the  place  of  crumbs,  but  are  not  so  palatable.  Two  or 
three  taUespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese  may  be  mixed  with 
the  crumbs,  if  you  like  the  flavor. 

The  sauce  may  be  mixed  with  the  fish ;  but  be  careful 
not  to  mash  the  fish  or  get  it  too  moist.  Then  the  fish 
may  be  piled  on  the  platter,  higher  and  broader  at  one 
end  and  giving  the  outline  of  a  flat  fish ;  or  arranged  in 
the  form  of  a  fish  shaped  like  the  letter  S,  and  covered 
with  the  crumbs.  Or,  if  the  fish  be  not  broken  in  boiling, 
take  it  up  carefully  on  the  drainer,  remove  the  head,  skin, 
and  small  bones  from  one  side,  put  a  platter  over  the  fish 
and  invert  platter  and  fish  together;  then  remove  the 
skin  and  the  backbone  from  the  other  side,  leaving  the  fish 
as  whole  as  possible.  Cover  with  the  sauce  and  crumbs, 
and  bake  as  above.  This  is  not  so  desirable  as  the  first 
method,  because  some  fine  bones  are  liable  to  be  over- 
looked, and  the  sauce  is  not  so  well  mixed  with  the  fish. 

Remnants  of  Cooked  Fish. 

Remnants  of  cold  boiled  or  bakec^fish  (using  stuffing 
and  sauce  also)  may  be  freed  from  skin  and  bones,  flaked, 
and  used  in  any  of  the  following  ways  :  — 

Scalloped  Fish.  —  Put^A  and  stuffing  into  a  shallow  dish 
in  alternate  layers,  with  cream  sauce  to  moisten ;  cover 
with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  till  the  crumbs  are  brown. 

Fish  in  Potato  Border.  —  Warm  the  fsh  slightly  in  a 
white  sauce,  and  put  it  in  the  centre  of  a  dish  with  a  border 
of  mashed  potatoes.  Or,  if  }TOU  have  enough  material  for 
a  large  platter,  put  the  border  on  the  edge  and  a  higher 
mound  of  potatoes  in  the  centre,  and  fill  the  space  between 
with  the  Jish.  Sprinkle  buffered  crumbs  Iightl3r  over  the 
whole  and  set  in  the  oven  till  brown. 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Chartreuse,  or  Casserole  of  Fish,  No.  1.  —  One  cup  of  anj1 
cold  fish,  flaked,  seasoned,  and  moistened  with  a  little 
cream  ;  the  same  quantity  of  mashed  potatoes  ;  and  two  hard- 
boiled  eggs.  Butter  a  small  mould  and  put  in  alternate  lay 
ers  of  potatoes,  fish,  and  slices  of  egg.  Steam  twenty 
minutes,  turn  out  upon  a  hot  platter,  and  garnish  with 
varsley. 

No.  2.  —  Mix  one  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs,  one  pint  of 
cold  Jish,  flaked,  and  two  eggs.  Season  to  taste  with  Wor- 
cestershire or  tomato  catchup,  salt,  and  cayenne  pepper.  Put 
into  a  buttered  mould.  Boil  thirty  minutes,  and  serve 
with  any  fish  sauce. 

Kedgeree.  —  Warm  cold  flaked  Jish  slightly  over  hot 
-water  ;  and  just  before  serving  stir  in  one  egg,  beaten 
with  one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  milk  and  a  bit  of  butter, 
and  serve  in  a  rice  border.  Steam  the  rice,  one  cupful,  in 
two  cupfuls  of  highly  seasoned  stock,  in  a  double  boiler  thirty 
minutes,  or  till  tender  and  dry. 

Curried  Fish.  —  Warm  any  cold  flaked  Jish  in  curry 
sauce,  page  190. 

Creamed  Fish  with  Oysters.  —  Add  an  equal  amount  of 
oysters  to  theflsh,  and  cook  in  white  sauce  till  the  O3Tsters 
are  plump.  Garnish  with  points  of  toast. 

Spiced  Fish.  —  Steep  six  cloves,  six  allspice  kernels,  six 
peppercorns,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  brown  sugar  in  one  cup 
of  sharp  vinegar  ten  minutes,  and  pour  it  over  one  pint  of 
any  cold  flaked  Jish. 

Crimped  Fish. 

Soak  slices  of  any  firm  white  fresh  fish  in  very  strongly 
salted  water.  Put  them  into  boiling  salted  water  enough 
to  cover,  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  vinegar,  and  boil  about 
ten  minutes.  Drain  ;  arrange  on  a  platter  ;  remove  the 
skin  and  bones.  Serve  hot  with  oyster  or  lobster  sauce, 
or  cold  with  a  Mayonnaise  or  Tartare  sauce  poured 
into  the  cavity  left  by  the  bone.  Garnish  with  water' 
presses. 


Fish  Balls.  1 71 


Potted  Fish. 

Three  shad  or  six  small  mackerel,  uncooked  ;  one  third  of  a 
cup  of  salt  with  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne  pepper  mixed 
with  it,  and  half  a  cup  of  whole  spices,  —  cloves,  peppercorns, 
and  allspice  mixed  in  about  equal  proportions.  Vine- 
gar  to  cover.  Clean,  remove  the  skin,  split  in  halves,  cut 
each  half  into  three  pieces,  and  remove  all  the  larger  bones. 
Pack  the  fish  in  layers  in  a  small  stone  jar.  (Earthenware 
must  not  be  used  on  account  of  the  vinegar.)  Sprinkle 
the  sa;o  and  spices  over  each  layer.  Add  one  onion  sliced 
thin,  ii  you  do  not  dislike  the  flavor.  Add  vinegar  enough 
to  completely  cover  the  fish.  Tie  a  thick  paper  over  the 
top,  or  tie  a  cloth  over  and  cover  with  a  crust  of  dough  to 
keep  in  all  the  steam.  Bake  in  a  very  moderate  oven  five 
or  six  hours.  Remove  the  dough-crust,  and  when  cooled 
cover,  and  keep  in  a  cool  place. 

This  will  keep  some  time,  if  the  fish  be  kept  under  the 
vinegar ;  the  bones  will  be  dissolved,  and  it  makes  an  ex- 
cellent relish  for  lunch  or  tea. 

Rules  for  Fish  Salad,  Croquettes,  and  Chowder  are  given' 
elsewhere. 


Salt  Fish  Balls. 
X 


1  cup  raw  salt  fish. 

1  pint  potatoes. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  butter. 


1  egg,  well  beaten. 

^  saltspoonful  pepper. 

More  salt,  if  needed. 


Wash  the  fish,  pick  in  half-inch  pieces,  and  free  from 
bones.  Pare  the  potatoes,  and  cut  in  quarters.  Put  the 
potatoes  and  fish  in  a  stewpan,  and  cover  with  boiling 
water.  Boil  twent3'-five  minutes,  or  till  the  potatoes  are 
soft.  Be  careful  not  to  let  them  boil  long  enough  to  be- 
come soggy.  Drain  off  all  the  water ;  mash  and  beat  the 
fish  and  potatoes  till  very  light.  Add  the  butter  and 
pepper,  and  when  slightl}'  cooled  add  the  egg  and  more 
salt,  if  needed.  Shape  in  a  tablespoon  without  smoothing 
much,  slip  them  off  into  a  basket,  and  fry  in  smoking  hot 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


lard  one  minute.  Fry  only  five  at  a  time,  as  more  will 
cool  the  fat.  The  lard  should  be  hot  enough  to  brown  a 
piece  of  bread  while  you  count  forty.  Or,  first  dipping 
the  spoon  in  the  fat,  take  up  a  spoonful  of  the  fish  and 
plunge  it  into  the  hot  fat.  Drain  on  soft  paper. 

These  fish  balls  should  be  mixed  while  the  potatoes  and 
fish  are  hot.  If  you  wish  to  prepare  them  the  night 
before,  omit  the  egg,  and  in  the  morning  warm  the  fish 
and  potato  in  a  double  boiler,  then  add  the  egg.  Keep  the 
fish  in  a  bowl  of  cold  water  while  picking  it  apart,  and 
it  will  need  no  further  soaking. 

Contrary  to  all  old  theories,  boiling  the  fish  with  the 
potato  does  not  harden  it.  When  well  mashed  and  beaten 
with  a  strong  fork,  the  fish  will  only  be  recognized  in  the 
potato  by  the  taste,  and  not  by  the  presence  of  hard,  lumpy 
pieces.  Never  chop  salt  fish.  If  picked  apart  into  small 
pieces  and  then  rubbed  with  a  potato  masher  till  it  is  re- 
duced to  fine  threads,  it  will  blend  with  any  mixture 
better  than  it  will  when  chopped.  These  are  the  most 
quickly  prepared  and  the  most  delicious  fish  balls  ever 
made,  and  are  worthy  the  superlative  adjectives  which 
have  been  given  them  by  enthusiastic  pupils. 

Fish  Hash.  —  The  same  mixture  as  above,  cooked  in  a 
little  salt  pork  fat  in  a  frying-pan  till  brown,  and  turned 
out  like  an  omelet. 

Fish  Souffle.  —  Prepare  the  fish  as  for  fish  balls  ;  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  cream  and  two  eggs,  beaten  separately  ;  and 
bake  in  a  buttered  dish. 

To  prepare  Salt  Fish  for  Cooking. 

Soak  over  night  in  cold  water  with  the  skin  side  up,  that 
the  salt  may  be  drawn  out  ;  or,  if  you  can,  strip  the  skin 
off  before  soaking.  By  changing  the  water  often,  less  time 
will  be  required.  Salt  mackerel  and  other  small  corned  fish 
should  be  broiled.  Salt  codfish  should  be  put  on  the  stove 
in  fresh  water  and  kept  warm,  but  not  boiling,  till  softened. 
Then  remove  the  bones  and  skin,  and  flake  in  delicate 
pieces.  Serve  with  egg  or  cream  sauce,  potatoes,  sweet  beets, 


Fish   Roes.  173 


carrots,  and  onions,  and  crisp  salt  pork  scraps,  and  you.  have 
the  old-fashioned  saltjish  dinner. 

Creamed  Salt  Fish.  —  Serve  one  cup  of  the  picked  up 
jish  in  a  rich  cream  sauce  with  potato  border  or  on  toast. 

Mock  Oyster  Stew.  (Mrs.  S.  M.  Bailey.)  — Prepare  one 
cup  of  salt  fsh  by  washing,  shredding,  and  simmering  till 
soft  »  when  ready  to  serve,  put  it  hi  a  shallow  dish  with 
one  pint  of  oyster  crackers  or  three  butter  crackers  split  and 
browned,  and  pour  over  it  one  pint  of  hot  milk.  Add  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and 
serve. 

Scorched  Salt  Fish.  —  Pick  a  small  piece  of  the  thickest 
part  of  salt  Jish  into  long  flakes.  If  very  salt,  soak  a  few 
minutes  in  cold  water.  Brown  over  hot  coals.  Spread 
with  butter,  and  serve  hot.  Fish  thus  prepared  is  a  nice 
relish  with  potatoes  which  have  been  roasted  in  the  ashes. 
It  will  also  tempt  a  convalescent.  Smoked  salmon  or  hali- 
but may  be  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

Tongues  and  Sounds.  —  Soak  them  in  warm  water  several 
hours,  or  till  freshened  ;  scrape  off  the  skin.  Cut  them  in 
small  pieces  and  heat  slowly  in  milk  or  water.  Make  a 
thin  white  sauce  to  pour  over  them,  and  serve  on  toast 
garnished  with  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Fish  Roes,  Fried. 

Wash  the  roes  and  cook  them  ten  minutes  in  boiling 
salted  water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar.  Then 
plunge  them  into  cold  water.  Drain,  and  roll  in  beaten 
egg,  then  in  seasoned  crumbs,  and  fry  till  brown  in  smok- 
ing hot  fat. 

Scalloped  Roes. — Boil  the  roes  as  in  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt. Drain,  and  break  up  lightly  with  a  fork.  Sprinkle 
a  layer  of  the  roe  in  a  shallow  dish ;  then  rub  the  yolk  of 
hard-boiled  egg  through  a  fine  strainer.  Add  a  sprinkling 
of  parsley  and  a  little  lemon  juice.  Moisten  with  a  thin 
white  sauce.  Then  another  layer  of  roe,  egg,  seasoning, 
and  sauce.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake  till 


174 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


brown.     If  a  larger  dish  be  required,  use  with  the  roes 
any  cold  flaked  fish^  or  a  small  quantity  of  cooked  rice. 

Small  Fresh  Fish  Baked  in  a  Crust. 

Clean  the  fish,  and  wipe  dry.  Cut  gashes  one  inch  apart 
on  each  side  ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper.  Make  a  rich 
biscuit  crust  with  baking-powder,  or  make  a  pastry  crust; 
roll  it  out  half  an  inch  thick ;  wrap  the  fish  in  the  crust, 
pinch  the  edges  together,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour. 
Serve  with  egg  sauce. 

Table  of  the  Cost,  etc.,  of  Fish. 


Cost. 

Weight. 

How  sold. 

When  in 
Season. 

Cod. 

8  cts.  per  Ib. 

3  to  20  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Haddock. 

6  to  8  cts.  per  Ib. 

5  to  8  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Cusk. 

8  cts.  per  Ib. 

5  to  8  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Winter. 

Halibut. 

12  to  20  cts.  per  Ib. 

By  the  Ib. 

Flounders. 

6  to  10  cts.  per  Ib. 

i  to  5  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Salmon. 

25  to  50  cts.  per  Ib. 

By  the  Ib. 

May  to  Sept. 

Shad. 

$1.25      in     March, 

Whole. 

Spring. 

25  cts.  in  May. 

Blue-fish. 

7  to  15  cts.  per  Ib. 

4  to  10  Ibs. 

Whole. 

June  to  Oct. 

Tautog. 

12  cts.  per  Ib. 

Whole. 

July  to  Sept. 

White-fish. 

20  cts.  per  Ib. 

4  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Winter. 

Bass. 

12  to  25  cts.  per  Ib. 

3  to  8  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Sword-fish. 
Smelts. 
Perch. 

15  cts.  per  Ib. 
10  to  25  cts.  per  Ib. 
20  cts.  per  dozen. 

i  Average 
j  8  to  a  Ib. 

By  the  Ib. 

July  to  Sept. 
Sept.  to  March. 
Summer. 

Pickerel. 

15  cts.  per  Ib. 

1  to  4  Ibs. 

Whole. 

Trout,  Brook. 

75  cts.  per  Ib. 

Whole. 

Spring. 

Mackerel. 

5  to  25  cts.  each. 

Whole. 

April  to  Oct. 

Eels. 

15  cts.  per  Ib. 

*  to  1  Ib.  ' 

Whole. 

Lobsters. 

12  cts.  per  Ib. 

1  to  2  Ibs. 

Oysters. 

35  to  50  cts.  per  qt. 

Sept.  to  May, 

Clams. 

20  cts.  per  qt.  ;  40  cts. 

per  pk.  in  the  shell. 

Crabs. 

$1.25    to   $1.50  per 

Summer. 

dozen. 

Herring. 

20  cts.  per  dozen. 

Mar.  and  Apr. 

Salt  Cod  Fish. 

10  cts.  per  Ib.,  best. 

Smoked  Fish. 

20  to  35  cts.  per  Ib. 

Where  no  time  is  specified  the  fish  are  always  in  season. 


Oysters.  175 


SHELL   FISH. 

Oysters,  Clams,  Scallops,  Lobsters,  Grabs,  Shrimps,  and 
Prawns  are  the  principal  varieties  of  shell  fish  used  as 
food. 

Oysters. 

These  shell  fish  are  found  in  perfection  in  the  cooi  waters 
of  the  Northern  Atlantic  coast.  The  Blue  Points  from 
Long  Island  are  considered  the  best  in  the  New  York 
market.  The  Wareham  and  Providence  River  are  equally 
esteemed  in  Boston.  Oysters  are  neither  healthful  nor 
well  flavored  from  May  to  September ;  at  all  other  times 
the3T  are  used  more  extensively  and  are  more  highly  prized 
than  any  other  shell  fish.  They  aro  nutritious,  and  are 
easily  digested  when  fresh  and  eaten  raw,  or  when  only 
slightly  cooked.  When  over-cooked ,  they  are  tough  and 
leathery.  Oysters  should  never  be  kept  long  after  being 
taken  from  the  shell ;  and  if  to  be  used  raw,  should  not 
be  opened  till  just  before  using. 

Oysters  cooked  in  the  Shells.  — Wash  and  scrub  the  shells, 
and  put  them  in  a  pan  with  the  round  side  down  (to  hold 
the  juice),  and  cook  either  in  a  hot  oven,  on  the  top  of  a 
hot  stove,  on  a  gridiron  over  the  coals,  or  in  a  steamer, 
ten  to  twenty  minutes.  When  the  shells  open,  the  oysters 
are  done.  Remove  the  upper  shell ;  season  the  oyster  on 
the  lower  shell  with  butter,  pepper,  salt,  and  vinegar,  and 
serve  at  once.  Or  take  from  the  shells,  put  into  a  hot 
dish,  season,  and  serve  immediately.  There  is  no  other 
way  of  cooking  the  oyster  in  which  the  natural  flavor  is 
so  fully  developed. 

Raw  Oysters.  —  Open  the  oysters  ;  look  them  over  care- 
fully ;  remove  any  fine  pieces  of  shell  which  may  adhere  to 
them ;  then  season  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  let 


1 76  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

them  stand  half  an  hour  in  the  ice  chest.  Serve  on  fancy 
oyster  plates,  or  on  the  deep  half-shell,  with  slices  of  lemon. 
Serve  with  small  squares  of  buttered  brown  bread. 

Oysters  on  Ice.  —  Put  a  rectangular  block  of  clear  ice, 
having  smooth,  regular  surfaces,  in  a  large  pan.  With  a 
hot  brick  or  flat-iron  melt  a  cavity  large  enough  to  hold 
the  desired  number  of  oysters.  Pour  the  water  from  the 
cavity,  and  fill  with  oysters,  which  should  first  be  drained, 
and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Place  a  thick  napkin 
on  a  platter,  put  the  ice  upon  this,  cover  the  dish  with 
parsley  or  smilax,  and  garnish  with  lemon.  The  ice  is  some- 
times roughly  chipped  to  resemble  a  rock.  If  the  dinner 
be  served  from  the  sideboard,  individual  plates  of  ice  are 
made. 

To  prepare  Oysters  for  Cooking.  — Pour  half  a  cup  of  cold 
water  over  one  quart  of  oysters ;  then  with  clean  hands 
take  out  the  oysters  separately  and  remove  any  bits  of 
shell  or  seaweed.  Serious  accidents  have  often  resulted 
from  the  presence  of  pieces  of  shell.  The  crabs  which 
are  found  among  the  oysters  are  considered  a  delicacy 
and  should  be  saved.  The  oyster  liquor  is  seldom  used, 
as  enough  comes  from  the  oysters  in  cooking ;  but,  if  de- 
sired, it  shoufd  be  strained  before  using.  The  oysters  may 
then  be  cooked  in  any  of  the  following  ways. 

To  cook  or  parboil  Oysters  in  their  Liquor.  —  Put  them 
in  a  saucepan  without  water ;  stir  them,  or  shake  the  pan 
slightly;  as  soon  as  heated,  sufficient  liquor  comes  from 
them  to  keep  them  from  burning.  When  the  edges  curl  or 
ruffle,  and  the  oysters  look  plump  instead  of  flat,  they 
are  cooked.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter,  and 
serve  as  a  plain  roast;  or  pour  on  toast,  and  call  it  a 
fancy  roast. 

For  Oyster  Stew,  see  page  154. 

Smothered  Oysters,  —  Put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a 
covered  saucepan  with  half  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper, 
«ne  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  pepper. 
When  hot,  add  one  pint  of  oysters  carefully  prepared. 
Cover  closely,  and  shake  the  pan  to  keep  the  oysters  from 


Oysters.  177 

sticking ;  cook  two  or  three  minutes,  or  till  plump.    Serve 
on  toasted  crackers. 

Creamed  Oysters.  —  Make  one  cup  of  thick  cream  sauce 
(see  page  190),  and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and 
celery  salt.  Wash  and  pick  over  one  pint  of  oysters,  and 
parboil  until  plump.  Skim  carefully  ;  drain  and  add  them 
to  the  sauce.  Serve  on  toast,  and  garnish  the  dish  with 
points  of  toast;  or  the  toast  ma}'  be  omitted,  and  bread 
crumbs  browned  in  butter  sprinkled  over  the  o}*sters. 
When  served  in  patty  shells  or  in  a  vol-au-vent,  make  the 
cream  sauce  thicker. 

fricasseed  Oysters.  —  Cook  one  pint  of  oysters  in  hot  but- 
ter, till  plump,  as  directed  for  smothered  oysters.  Drain, 
and  keep  the  oysters  hot,  and  add  enough  cream  to  the 
oyster  liquor  to  make  one  cupful.  Cook  one  tablespoonful 
of  flour  in  one  tablespoonful  of  hot  butter.  Add  slowly  the 
hot  cream  and  oyster  liquor.  Season  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  pepper  to  taste.  Pour  the  sauce 
into  one  well-beaten  egg,  add  the  hot  oysters,  and  heat  one 
minute.  Serve  on  toast,  if  for  breakfast ;  or  in  paper 
cases,  or  patties,  if  for  lunch  or  dinner. 

Scalloped  Oysters.  —  One  pint  of  solid  oysters,  washed 
and  drained  ;  one  third  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter;  one  cup  of 
cracker  or  stale  bread  crumbs,  moistened  in  the  melted  but- 
ter. Butter  a  shallow  dish ;  put  in  a  layer  of  crumbs» 
then  a  layer  of  oysters  ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper;  and, 
if  you  like,  add  Worcestershire  sauce,  lemon  juice,  wine,  or 
mace.  Then  put  in  another  layer  of  crumbs,  then  oysters 
and  seasoning,  with  a  thick  layer  of  crumbs  on  the  top. 
Bake  in  a  hot  oven  about  twenty  minutes,  until  the  crumbs 
are  brown.  Many  prefer  to  heat  the  O}rster  liquor  and 
the  butter  with  an  equal  quantity  of  milk  or  cream,  and 
use  more  cracker.  Moisten  each  layer  of  cracker  with  the 
hot  liquid.  Reserve  the  larger  part  of  the  butter  for  the 
top  layer  of  crumbs.  In  this  way  a  larger  dish  may  be 
prepared  with  the  same  quantity  of  oysters. 

Oysters  en  Coquille.  —  Prepare  as  for  scalloped  oysters. 
Put  one  or  two  very  large  or  several  smaller  oysters  in 

X 


178  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

oyster  or  scallop  shells ;  season,  and  cover  with  buttered 
crumbs.  Bake  till  the  crumbs  are  brown.  Place  the  shells 
on  small  plates,  and  serve  one  to  each  person. 

Large  scallop  shells  may  be  obtained  at  the  fish  market, 
then  cleaned  and  used  several  times.  Tin,  granite,  or 
silver  shells  may  also  be  used. 

Oysters  and  Mushrooms  in  Crusts.  —  Bake  Parker-House- 
roll  dough  in  round  pans,  or  as  small  round  biscuit  placed 
some  distance  apart.  When  cold,  cut  a  slice  from  the  top 
of  each,  and  remove  the  soft  inside  without  breaking 
through  the  crust.  Fill  with  the  following  mixture  :  — 

Parboil  half  a  pint  of  oysters.  Strain,  and  save  the  liquor. 
Cut  the  oysters  fine,  and  mix  with  them  half  a  can  of 
chopped  mushrooms.  Mix  the  oyster  liquor  and  mush- 
room juice  with  enough  cream  to  make  one  pint  in  all. 
Pour  this  hot  liquid  slowly  on  one  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  three  of  flour  cooked  together.  Season  highly  with 
salt,  pepper,  lemon  juice,  and  cayenne.  Pour  this  into  the 
crusts,  and  serve  at  once.  This  dish  is  acceptable  to 
those  who  cannot  eat  oysters  in  puff-paste  patties. 

Pigs  in  Blankets,  or  Huitres  au  Lit.  —  Season  large  oys- 
ters with  salt  and  pepper.  Cut  very  thin  slices  of  fat 
bacon  ;  wrap  each  oyster  in  a  slice  of  bacon,  and  fasten 
with  a  wooden  skewer.  Put  in  a  hot  omelet  pan,  and 
cook  just  long  enough  to  crisp  the  bacon.  Serve  on  small 
pieces  of  delicate  toast. 

Fried  Oysters.  — Wash  the  oysters,  drain,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  and  let  them  stand  twenty  minutes.  Roll 
first  in  seasoned  crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  egg  mixed  with 
one  tablespoonful  of  milk  ;  roll  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry  one 
minute  in  smoking  hot  lard.  Drain  on  paper,  and  garnish 
with  chopped  or  sliced  pickle,  or  chowchow.  Serve  with  cold 
slaw  or  celery  salad. 

Fried  oysters  are  much  better,  and  spatter  less  in  frying, 
if  parboiled  slightly  and  drained  before  rolling  in  the 
crumbs.  When  only  a  few  are  wanted,  and  those  espe- 
cially nice,  select  the  large  oysters,  roll  them  in  fine  crumbs, 
tben  in  Mayonnaise  dressing,  then  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry. 


Clams.  179 


Sauted  Oysters. — Prepare  as  for  fiying,  and  brown  on 
each  side  in  hot  butter ;  or  roll  in  the  cracker  only,  and 
brown  them. 

Oysters  in  Fritter  Batter ,  see  page  107. 

Broiled  Oysters. — Pick  over,  and  drain  large  oysters. 
Dip  in  melted  butter,  then  in  fine  cracker  crumbs  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Butter  a  fine  wire  gridiron ;  put 
the  oysters  in  closely,  and  broil  till  the  juice  flows.  Some 
prefer  to  broil  them  without  the  crumbs,  but  more  juice  is 
lost  in  this  way. 

Pickled  Oysters.  —  Cook  one  quart  of  oysters  in  their 
liquor,  till  plump.  Remove  the  oysters,  and  add  to  the 
liquor  half  a  cup  of  good  cider  vinegar.  Skim  as  it  boils, 
and  add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  two  blades  of  mace,  ten 
cloves,  ten  peppercorns,  ten  allspice  berries,  and  a  few  grains 
of  cayenne  pepper.  Boil  five  minutes.  Pour  the  liquor 
over  the  oysters,  and  when  cold  seal  in  glass  jars,  and  put 
in  a  cool  dark  place.  They  will  keep  two  weeks. 

Clams. 

Thin  shell  clams,  and  round  shell  clams,  or  quahaugs, 
furnish  a  delicious  and  wholesome  form  of  food  if  eaten 
only  when  fresh.  They  are  more  easily  opened  and  have 
a  finer  flavor  when  cooked  in  the  shells. 

Steamed  Clams.  —  Wash  and  scrub  the  shells.  Put  them 
in  a  kettle  without  water,  cover  closely,  and  cook  till  the 
shells  open.  Take  them  out  with  a  skimmer,  pour  the 
clam  water  into  a  pitcher,  and  let  it  settle.  Straining  is 
not  sufficient,  as  the  fine  sand  will  go  through  the  finest 
strainer ;  but  the  water  will  be  clear  if  care  be  taken  not 
to  disturb  the  sediment.  Remove  the  clams  from  the 
shells,  peel  off  the  thin  skin  around  the  edge,  and  cut  off 
the  whole  of  the  black  end.  Scissors  are  better  than  a 
knife  for  this  purpose.  Rinse  each  clam  in  a  little  of  the 
clam  water,  and  if  very  large,  cut  the  tough  part  into 
small  pieces.  When  the  water  is  clear,  pour  it  into  a 
saucepan,  add  the  clams,  and  heat  again  till  just  hot,  but 


i8o  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

do  not  let  them  boil.  Serve  with  brown  bread,  or  toasted 
crackers;  and  let  each  person  season  them  to  taste  with 
melted  butter,  pepper,  and  vinegar. 

Scalloped  Clams.  —  Prepare  the  clams  as  in  steamed 
clams.  Make  a  while  sauce,  as  for  fish  (see  page  189)  ; 
put  the  clams  in  a  shallow  dish  or  in  clean  shells ;  cover 
with  the  sauce  and  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  till  brown. 

For  Clam  Soup,  Clam  Chowder,  and  Clam  fritters,  see 
the  Index. 

A  Clam  Bake. 

An  impromptu  clam  bake  may  be  had  at  any  time  at 
low  tide  along  the  coast  where  clams  are  found.  If  you 
wish  to  have  genuine  fun,  and  to  know  what  an  appetite 
one  can  have  for  the  bivalves,  make  up  a  pleasant  party 
and  dig  for  the  clams  yourselves.  A  short  thick  dress, 
shade  hat,  rubber  boots,  —  or,  better  still,  no  boots  at  all, 
if  you  can  bring  your  mind  to  the  comfort  of  bare  feet, 
—  a  small  garden  trowel,  a  fork,  and  a  basket,  and  }TOU  are 
ready.  Let  those  who  are  not  digging  gather  a  large  pile 
of  driftwood  and  seaweed,  always  to  be  found  along  the 
shore.  Select  a  dozen  or  more  large  stones,  and  of  them 
make  a  level  floor  ;  pile  the  driftwood  upon  them,  and  make 
a  good  brisk  fire  to  heat  the  stones  thoroughly.  When  hot 
enough  to  crackle  as  you  sprinkle  water  upon  them,  brush 
off  the  embers,  letting  them  fall  between  the  stones.  Put 
a  thin  layer  of  seaweed  on  the  hot  stones,  to  keep  the 
lower  clams  from  burning.  Rinse  the  clams  in  salt  water 
by  plunging  the  basket  which  contains  them  in  the  briny 
pools  near  by.  Pile  them  over  the  hot  stones,  heaping 
them  high  in  the  centre.  Cover  with  a  thick  layer  of  sea- 
weed, and  a  piece  of  old  canvas,  blanket,  carpet,  or  dry 
leaves,  to  keep  in  the  steam.  The  time  for  baking  will 
depend  upon  the  size  and  quantit}r  of  the  clams.  Peep  in 
occasionally  at  those  around  the  edge.  When  the  shells 
are  open,  the  clams  are  done.  They  are  delicious  eaten 
from  the  shell,  with  no  other  sauce  than  their  own  briny 
sweetness.  Melted  butter,  pepper,  and  vinegar  should  be 


Lobsters.  181 


ready  for  those  who  wish  them ;  then  all  may  "  fall  to." 
Fingers  must  be  used.  A  Rhode  Islander  would  laugh  at 
any  one  trying  to  use  a  knife  and  fork.  Pull  off  the  thin 
skin,  take  them  by  the  black  end,  dip  them  in  the  prepared 
butter,  and  bite  off  close  to  the  end.  If  you  swallow  them 
whole,  they  will  not  hurt  3^011.  At  a  genuine  Rhode  Island 
clam  bake,  blue-fish,  lobsters,  crabs,  sweet  potatoes,  and 
ears  of  sweet  corn  in  their  gauz}'  husks  are  baked  with 
the  clains.  The  clam  steam  gives  them  a  delicious  flavor. 
Brown  bread  is  served  with  the  clams,  and  watermelon  for 
dessert  completes  the  feast. 

Scallops. 

This  shell  fish  has  a  round,  deeply  grooved  shell.  The 
muscle  which  unites  the  shell  is  the  only  part  eaten.  Scal- 
lops have  a  sweet  flavor,  and  are  in  season  during  the  fall 
and  winter.  They  may  be  stewed  like  oysters,  but  are 
better  fried. 

Fried  Scallops.  —  Pick  over,  and  wash  quickly ;  drain 
between  towels ;  season  fine  cracker  crumbs  with  salt  and 
pepper.  Dip  the  scallops  in  the  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg, 
and  again  in  crumbs.  Fry  in  smoking  hot  fat,  and  serve 
at  once. 

Lobsters. 

The  markets  are  now  so  well  supplied  with  these  deli- 
cious shell  fish,  that  they  may  be  obtained  in  good  condi- 
tion all  the  year.  The  canned  lobster  is  also  convenient 
in  an  emergency,  for  use  in  soups  and  salads.  Lobsters 
are  put  alive  into  boiling  salted  water,  and  cooked  twenty 
minutes  from  the  time  the  water  boils.  They  should  not 
be  eaten  until  cold,  and  never  be  kept  more  than  eighteen 
hours  after  boiling.-  Lobsters  are  difficult  of  digestion, 
and  should  be  eaten  with  mustard,  cayenne  pepper,  and 
lemon  juice  or  vinegar. 

To  Choose  a  Lobster.  —  Select  one  of  medium  size,  heavy 
in  proportion  to  the  size.  Those  with  hard,  solid  shells, 
streaked  with  black,  will  be  found  full  of  meat;  those  witu 


i  $2  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

thin  shells  are  watery.  If  the  tail  spring  back  quickty 
when  straightened,  the  lobster  is  fresh. 

To  Open  a  Lobster.  —  Wipe  the  shell  with  a  wet  cloth, 
Break  off  the  large  claws,  separate  the  tail  from  the  bod^ 
and  the  body  from  the  shell,  leaving  the  stomach,  or  lady, 
in  the  shell ;  then  remove  the  small  claws.  Save  the 
green  liver  and  coral.  Crush  the  tail  by  pressing  the 
sides  together,  then  pull  it  open  on  the  under  side,  and 
take  out  the  meat  in  one  piece.  Draw  back  the  flesh 
on  the  upper  end  of  this  meat,  and  remove  the  intestinal 
canal,  which  runs  the  entire  length.  This  is  sometimes 
black,  and  sometimes  the  color  of  the  meat.  Break  off  all 
the  gills  on  the  body  before  picking  the  meat  from  tne 
joints,  as  they  are  liable  to  drop  off  with  the  meat,  and 
are  too  woolly  to  be  palatable.  The  gills,  stomach,  and 
intestines  are  the  only  parts  not  eaten.  Break  the  body 
in  the  middle,  and  pick  the  meat  from  the  joints,  being 
careful  not  to  take  any  of  the  bones.  When  the  shells  of 
the  large  claws  are  thin,  cut  off  a  strip  down  the  sharp 
edge,  and  remove  the  meat  whole ;  or  break  them  by 
hammering  on  the  edge.  Never  pound  them  in  the  mid- 
dle, as  that  crushes  the  meat.  If  the  lobster  shell  is  to 
be  used  for  serving  the  meat,  cut  down  the  under  side  of 
the  tail  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  remove  the  meat  without 
breaking  the  outside  shell.  Trim  the  inside,  and  clean 
the  shell.  The  body  shell  may  be  cleaned,  split  in  halves, 
and  trimmed  with  sharp  scissors  into  the  shape  of  clam 
shells. 

Plain  Lobster.  —  The  simplest  way  of  serving  lobster  is 
by  many  considered  the  best.  Remove  the  meat  from  the 
shell,  and  arrange  in  a  tasteful  manner ;  or  cut  it  into 
small  pieces.  Let  each  person  season  to  taste  with  salt, 
pepper,  vinegar,  and  oil,  or  melted  butter. 

Stewed  Lobster.  —  Cut  the  lobster  fine  ;  put  it  in  a  stew- 
pan,  with  a  little  milk  or  cream.  Boil  up  once ;  add  one 
taUespoonful  of  butter,  a  little  pepper,  and  serve  plain  or  on 
toasted  crackers.  Cook  lobster  just  long  enough  to  heat  it, 
as  a  longer  cooking  renders  it  tough. 


CfnAt.  183 

Creamed  Lobster.  —  For  one  pint  of  lobster  meat  cut  fine, 
make  one  pint  of  white  sauce  (see  page  189).  Season  with 
salt,  cayenne,  and  lemon.  Heat  the  lobster  in  the  sauce, 
but  do  not  let  it  boil.  Serve  on  toast. 

Curried  Lobster.  —  Make  a  curry  sauce  (see  page  190) 
and  warm  the  diced  lobster  in  the  sauce. 


FIG.  9.    Scalloped  Lobster. 

Scalloped  Lobster.  —  Season  one  pint  of  lobster,  cut  into 
dice,  with  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne.  Mix  with  one  cup 
of  cream  sauce  (see  page  190)  ;  fill  the  lobster  shells,  using 
the  tail  shells  of  two  lobsters.  Cover  the  meat  with 
cracker  crumbs,  moistened  with  melted  butter.  Bake  tiH 
the  crumbs  are  brown.  Put  the  two  shells  together  on  a 
platter,  with  the  tail  ends  out,  to  look  like  a  long  canoe. 
Lay  the  small  claws  over  the  side  to  represent  oars.  Gar- 
nish with  parsley.  The  lobster  may  also  be  served  in 
scallop  shells. 

Devilled  Lobster.  —  The  same  as  the  preceding  receipt, 
with  the  addition  of  more  salt,  pepper,  and  cayenne;  add, 
also,  chopped  parsley,  onion  juice,  mustard,  and  Worcester* 
shire  sauce. 

For  Lobster  Soup,  Chowder,  Cutlets,  Croquettes,  and  Salad, 
see  the  Index. 

Crabs. 

These  are  found  near  the  coast  of  the  Southern  and 
Middle  States,  and  are  considered  such  a  luxury  in  Mary- 
land that  special  means  are  taken  for  their  propagation. 
They  are  usually  quite  expensive  in  Eastern  markets. 


Boston  Cook  Book. 


Crabs,  like  lobsters,  shed  their  shell  annually.  When  the 
new  shell  is  forming,  they  are  called  soft  shell  crabs,  and 
are  highly  esteemed  by  epicures. 

Soft  Shell  Crabs.  —  Use  them  only  when  freshly  caught, 
as  the  shells  harden  after  twenty-four  hours.  Pull  off  the 
sand  bags,  and  the  shaggy  substance  from  the  side  ;  then 
wash,  and  wipe  dry  ;  sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper  ;  roll  in 
crumbs,  then  in  egg,  again  in  crumbs  ;  and  fry  in  smoking 
hot  lard. 

Boiled  Grabs.  —  These  should  be  heavy,  of  medium  size, 
and  with  stiff  joints.  Plunge  them  head  first  into  boiling 
water,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes  ;  then  remove  the  outside 
shells  and  the  shaggy  substance,  rinse  in  hot  water,  and 
arrange  on  a  platter.  They  are  eaten  from  the  sheh1. 

Scalloped  Grabs.  —  Pick  the  meat  from  the  shells,  mince 
it,  and  mix  with  a  cream  sauce  ;  season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per, put  the  mixture  in  the  crab  shell  or  in  scallop  shells, 
cover  with  buttered  cracker  crumbs,  and  bake  till  brown. 

Devilled  Grabs.  —  Prepare  as  for  scalloped  crabs,  add- 
ing mustard,  cayenne  pepper,  and  lemon  juice  to  the 
seasoning. 

Crab  Salad.  —  Mix  the  meat  with  a  Mayonnaise  dress' 
ing,  pack  in  the  crab  shells,  and  garnish  with  sliced  lemon 
and  cresses. 


Shrimps. 

Shrimps  and  Prawns  are  found  in  the  summer  season  on 
the  Southern  coasts.  They  are  similar  in  form  to  a 
lobster,  but  very  small.  They  should  be  cooked  in  boiling 
salted  water  from  five  to  eight  minutes.  Remove  the 
shells  and  head  ;  the  part  that  is  eaten  resembles  in  shape 
the  tail  of  a  lobster.  They  are  used  in  fish  sauces,  and 
are  very  effective  as  a  garnish. 

Shrimp  Salad  and  Shrimps  en  Goquille  may  be  prepared 
like  lobster.  Canned  shrimps  are  generally  used  in  East- 
ern markets. 

Scalloped  Shrimps.  —  Make  a  tomato  sauce  (see  page  193). 
Pick  over  one  can  of  shrimps,  and  heat  them  in  the  sauce  , 


Terrapin.  185 


add  one  glass  of  wine.     Turn  into  a  scallop  dish,  cover 
with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  till  the  crumbs  are  brown. 


Reptiles. 

Fried  Frogs.  —  Frogs  are  considered  a  delicacy  by  those 
who  have  cultivated  a  taste  for  them.  If  not  already  pre- 
pared for  cooking,  remove  the  skin  from  the  hind  legs, 
which  is  the  only  part  used.  Dip  in  crumbs,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper,  then  in  egg,  and  again  in  crumbs. 
Wipe  the  bone  at  the  end ;  put  in  a  basket,  and  fry  one 
minute  in  smoking  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  in  a  circle* 
around  a  centre  of  green  peas.  Some  parboil  them  three 
minutes  in  boiling  salted  water  and  a  little  lemon  juice* 
before  frying. 

Frogs'  legs  may  also  be  broiled,  or  they  may  be  made 
into  a  white  or  brown  fricassee,  seasoned  with  mushrooms 
or  tomato  catchup. 

Terrapin. 

This  expensive  member  of  the  turtle  family  is  highly 
prized  in  Baltimore  and  Philadelphia,  but  seldom  used 
a  New  England.  Terrapin  may  be  kept  alive  through 
che  winter  by  putting  them  in  a  barrel,  where  they  will 
not  freeze,  and  feeding  them  occasionally  with  vegetable 
parings.  Before  cooking,  soak  them  in  strong  salt  water. 
Put  them  alive  into  boiling  water,  and  boil  rapidly  ten 
or  fifteen  minutes.  Remove  the  black  outside  skin  from 
the  shells,  and  the  nails  from  the  claws.  Wash  in  warm 
water ;  then  put  them  on  again,  in  fresh  boiling  water ; 
add  a  little  salt,  and  boil  about  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
or  until  the  under  shell  cracks.  Open  them  carefully  over 
a  bowl  to  save  the  gravy,  remove  the  under  shell,  the  sand 
bags,  the  head,  and  the  gall  bladder  from  the  liver.  If 
the  gall  bladder  be  broken  in  the  process,  the  whole  dish 
will  be  ruined  by  the  escaping  gall.  Put  the  upper  shells 
on  to  boil  again  in  the  same  water,  and  boil  until  tender  ,* 
vratch  then*  carefully,  and  take  each  out  as  soon  M 


1 86  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

tender.  Pick  the  liver  and  meat  from  the  upper  shell,  and 
cut  into  several  pieces.  The  intestines  are  used  with  the 
meat  in  winter,  when  the  turtle  is  in  a  torpid  condition ; 
but  in  the  summer  they  should  be  thrown  away.  Boil  the 
intestines  by  themselves  one  hour.  This  should  be  pre- 
pared the  day  before.  Heat  the  meat  in  the  gravy.  To 
each  terrapin  add  one  wineglassful  of  cream,  half  a  cup  of 
butter,  a  little  salt,  cayenne,  and  one  wineglassful  of  sherry. 
Use  the  turtle  eggs  if  there  be  any ;  if  not,  the  yolks  of 
two  hard-boiled  eggs  to  each  terrapin.  Rub  smooth,  mixing 
with  raw  yolk  enough  to  make  into  balls  the  size  of  tur- 
tle eggs.  Add  these  and  the  wine  just  as  you  send  the 
dish  to  the  table. 

Green  Turtle  Soup. 

The  green  turtle  is  highly  prized  on  account  of  the  deli- 
cious quality  of  its  flesh ;  but  as  it  is  very  large  and  ex- 
pensive  the  canned  turtle  is  more  generally  used. 

One  can  of  green  turtle,  one  quart  of  brown  stock,  two 
tablespoonfuls  each  of  butter  and  flour,  one  lemon.  Cut  the 
green  fat  into  dice  and  lay  it  aside.  Simmer  the  remain- 
der of  the  turtle  meat  in  the  stock  for  half  an  hour. 
Brown  the  flour  in  the  browned  butter,  add  it  to  the  soup, 
season  highly  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  with  thin  slices 
of  lemon,  egg  balls,  and  the  reserved  green  fat. 

Crab  Olio  —  A  Southern  Kecipe. 

Scald  and  skin  six  large,  smooth  tomatoes,  and  drain 
on  a  sieve  until  the  water  is  out.  Chop  fine  the  meat  of 
four  large  crabs  and  the  inside  of  one  egg-plant  which 
has  been  boiled,  also  the  cold  tomatoes.  Add  three  eggs, 
slightly  beaten,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  aiid  half  a  cup 
of  bread  crumbs.  Cook  until  warmed  through  in  a 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  but  do  not  brown  it.  Put  it  into 
the  crab  shells,  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  place  the 
shells  in  a  pan,  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are  brown. 


Drawn  Butter  Sauce.  187 


MEAT   AND   FISH   SAUCES. 

Drawn  Butter,  or  water  and  melted  butter  thickened 
with  flour,  and  seasoned,  is  the  simplest  form  of  a  sauce. 

When  milk,  or  cream,  or  white  stock  is  used  in  place  of 
water,  less  butter  is  required,  and  the  sauce  is  called  White, 
or  Cream,  or  Bechamel  sauce. 

By  browning  the  butter,  using  brown  stock,  and  adding 
different  seasoning  materials,  we  have  all  the  varieties  of 
Brown  sauces. 

Many  people  fail  in  making  sauces  by  not  cooking  the 
flour  sufficiently,  and  also  by  serving  them  with  a  mass  of 
oily  butter  on  the  surface.  Usually  the  flour  is  wet  to  a 
smooth  paste  and  stirred  into  the  boiling  liquid.  When 
made  in  this  manner,  the  sauce  should  boil  at  least  ten  min- 
utes to  have  the  flour  thoroughly  cooked.  But  by  cooking 
the  dry  flour  in  the  hot  butter  the  starch  in  the  flour  is 
more  quickly  cooked,  and  the  butter  is  all  absorbed  and 
converted  into  an  emulsion.  Sauces  made  in  this  manner 
are  perfectly  smooth,  free  from  grease,  and  have  a  fine 
flavor.  Every  one  should  learn  how  to  make  both  white 
and  brown  sauces.  They  are  adapted  to  nearly  every 
form  of  food.  Meats,  fish,  vegetables,  eggs,  macaroni, 
rice,  toast,  etc.,  are  rendered  more  palatable  by  being 
served  with  an  appropriate  sauce. 

Drawn  Butter  Sauce. 


1  pint  hot  water  or 

white  stock. 
>£  cup  butter,  scant 


2  tablespoonf  uls  flour, 
3^  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 
i.£  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Put  half  the  butter  in  a  saucepan  ;  be  careful  not  to  let 
it  become  brown  ;  when  melted,  add  the  dry  flour,  and  mix 


1 88  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

well.  Add  the  hot  water,  a  little  at  a  time,  and  stir 
rapidly  as  it  thickens.  When  perfectly  smooth,  add  the 
remainder  of  the  butter  in  small  pieces,  and  stir  till  it  is 
absorbed.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper.  When  carefully 
made,  this  sauce  should  be  free  from  lumps  ;  but  if  not 
smooth,  strain  it  before  serving. 

The  following  sauces  may  be  made  with  one  pint  of 
this  plain  drawn  butter  as  a  foundation  :  — 

Gaper  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Mutton) .  —  Add  six  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  capers.  Pickled  Nasturtium  seeds  may  be  used  in 
place  of  capers. 

Egg  Sauce  (for  Baked  or  Boiled  Fish).  —  Add  two  or 
three  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced  or  chopped. 

Parsley  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fish  or  Fowls).  —  Add  two 
table  spoonfuls  of  chopped  parsley. 

Lemon  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fowl).  —  Add  the  juice  and 
pulp  of  one  large  lemon,  and  the  chicken  liver  boiled  and 
mashed  fine. 

Shrimp  Sauce  (for  Fish) .  —  Add  half  a  pint  of  shrimps, 
whole  or  chopped,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  lemon  juice,  and  a  few 
grains  of  cayenne  pepper. 

Acid  Sauce.  —  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  or 
vinegar,  and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  pepper. 

Mustard  Sauce  (for  Devilled  Turkey,  Salt  Fish,  etc.).  — 
Add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  mixed  mustard  and  a  little  cayenne 
pepper. 

Lobster  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fish). —  One  pint  of  lobster 
meat,  cut  into  quarter-inch  dice.  Put  the  inner  shells  and 
scraggy  parts  in  one  and  a  half  pints  of  cold  water,  and 
boil  fifteen  minutes.  Strain  and  use  the  water  in  making 
one  pint  of  drawn  butter  sauce.  Add  the  lobster  dice,  the 
dried  and  powdered  coral,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon  juice. 

Oyster  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fish,  Turke}7,  or  Chicken).  — 
Parboil  one  pint  of  oysters ;  drain,  and  use  the  oyster  liquor 
in  making  one  pint  of  drawn   bntter  sauce.     Season  with 
celery  salt  and  cayenne  pepper.     Add  the  oysters  ;  cook  one 
minute  longer,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish  or  chicken.     Add 


White  Sauce.  189 


the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg  or  one  glass  of  claret  wine,  if  you 
wish  a  richer  sauce. 

Celery  Sauce  (for  Boiled  Fowl) .  —  One  pint  of  the  ten- 
der part  of  celery,  cut  very  fine.  Cook  in  boiling  salted 
water,  enough  to  cover,  till  tender.  Drain ;  add  enough 
hot  water  to  that  in  which  the  celery  was  cooked  to  make 
a  pint,  and  use  it  in  making  one  pint  of  drawn  butter 
sauce.  Add  the  cooked  celery  and  the  seasoning. 

Richer  Drawn  Butter  Sauce.  —  Make  a  plain  drawn 
butter  sauce,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  pour  it  boiling  hot 
into  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs.  Stir  thoroughly, 
season  to  taste,  and  serve  at  once. 

Sauce  Piquante.  —  Add  one  tablespoonful  each  of  vinegar 
and  lemon  juice,  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of  chopped  capers, 
pickles,  and  olives,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  onion  juice,  and  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne  pepper,  to  one  pint  of  drawn  butter. 

White  Sauce  (for  Vegetables,  Chicken,  Eggs,  etc.). 


1  pint  milk,  or  half  milk  and  half 
white  stock. 

2  tablespoonf  uls  butter. 


2  heaping  tablespoon! uls  flour. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 
%  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


Heat  the  milk  over  hot  water.  Put  the  butter  in  a 
granite  saucepan,  and  stir  tih1  it  melts  and  bubbles.  Be 
careful  not  to  brown  it.  Add  the  dry  flour,  and  stir 
quickly  till  well  mixed.  Pour  on  one  third  of  the  milk. 
Let  it  boil,  and  stir  well  as  it  thickens ;  tip  the  saucepan 
slightly  to  keep  the  sauce  from  sticking.  Add  another 
third  of  the  milk  ;  let  it  boil  up  and  thicken,  and  stir  vig- 
orously till  perfectly  smooth.  Be  sure  that  all  the  lumps 
are  rubbed  out  while  it  is  in  this  thick  state.  Then  add 
the  remainder  of  the  milk ;  let  it  boil,  and  when  smooth 
add  the  salt  and  pepper,  using  more  if  high  seasoning  be 
desired. 

This  white  sauce  may  be  used  in  place  of  drawn  butter 
in  any  of  the  preceding  rules. 

Bechamel  Sauce.  —  A  white  sauce  made  partly  with 
cream  and  partly  with  rich  white  stock,  either  veal  or 


The  Boston  Cook  Booh 


chicken,  according  to  directions  for  white  sauce,  is  called 
Bechamel. 

The  water  in  which  celery,  oysters,  or  lobsters  have 
been  cooked  may  be  mixed  with  milk  in  making  sauces 
given  under  these  names. 

For  Fish  a  la  creme  and  other  preparations  of  fish,  boil 
one  slice  of  onion  with  the  milk,  or  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
onion  juice  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 

For  Oysters,  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  celery  salt,  a  few 
grains  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
juice. 

For  boiled  Fowl,  add  half  a  can  of  mushrooms. 

A  richer  white  sauce  is  made  by  beating  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  and  pouring  the  hot  sauce  into  them  just  before 
serving. 

Gurry  Sauce  (for  Curried  Eggs,  Chicken,  etc.).  —  Cook 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter  five  minutes.  Be  careful  not  to  burn  it.  Mix  one 
tablespoonful  of  curry  powder  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
and  stir  it  into  the  butter.  Add  one  pint  of  hot  milk  grad- 
ually, and  stir  as  directed  for  white  sauce. 

Cream  Sauce,  No.  1. 


1  pint  hot  cream. 

1  heaping  tablespoonful  butter. 


3^  teaspoonful  salt. 
3^  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 


2  heaping  tablespoonfuls  flour. 

Make  in  the  same  manner  as  white  sauce,  and  vary  the 
seasoning  for  the  different  dishes  for  which  it  is  to  be 
used,  as  directed  in  white  sauce. 

A  thicker  Cream  Sauce  is  given  under  rules  for  Cro- 
quettes. 

Cream  Sauce,  No.  2. 

Warm  one  cup  of  cream.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs, 
strain  them  into  the  warm  cream,  and  cook  over  hot 
water  till  the  eggs  thicken  the  cream  like  boiled  custard. 
Stir  all  the  time  and  when  smooth  and  thickened  remove 
from  the  fire,  and  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Serve 
with  boiled  celery,  cauliflower,  chicken,  oysters,  fish,  etc. 


Brown  Sauce.  191 


Brown  Sauce. 


1  pint  hot  stock. 

2  tablespoonf  uls  ininced  onion. 
2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 

2  heaping  tablespoonfuls  flour. 


%  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 
y2  saltspoonf  ul  pepper. 
1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 
Caramel  enough  to  color. 


Mince  the  onion  and  fry  it  in  the  butter  five  minutes. 
Be  careful  not  to  burn  it.  When  the  butter  is  brown,  add 
the  dry  flour  and  stir  well.  Add  the  hot  stock  a  little  at 
a  time,  and  stir  rapidly  as  it  thickens,  until  perfectly 
smooth.  Add  the  salt  and  pepper,  using  more  if  high 
seasoning  be  desired.  Simmer  five  minutes,  and  strain 
to  remove  the  onion. 

The  stock  for  brown  sauces  may  be  made  from  bones 
and  remnants  of  any  kind  of  meat,  by  soaking  them  in 
cold  water,  and  boiling  until  the  nutriment  is  extracted. 
The  onion  may  be  omitted  if  the  flavor  be  not  desired ; 
but  the  sauce  is  better  with  it  if  it  be  not  burned. 

By  the  addition  of  different  seasoning  materials  to  this 
brown  sauce  a  great  variety  of  sauces  may  be  made.  Half 
the  quantit}-  given  is  sufficient  for  most  entrees,  or  to 
use  for  any  purpose  in  a  small  family.  Be  very  careful 
not  to  burn  the  butter,  as  the  desired  color  can  better  be 
obtained  by  adding  caramel. 

Brown  Sauce  Piquante  (for  Beef) .  —  To  one  cup  of 
brown  sauce  add  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  pickles  and 
capers. 

Sauce  Poivrade.  —  Make  one  cup  of  brown  sauce;  add 
one  teaspoonful  of  mixed  herbs-,  thyme,  parsley,  bay  leaf,  and 
cloves.  Simmer  ten  minutes ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
claret,  and  strain. 

Sauce  Robert.  —  To  one  cup  of  brown  sauce,  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar. 

Brown  Mushroom  Sauce  (for  Beef) .  —  To  one  cup  of 
brown  sauce  add  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  whole  or  quar- 
tered, and  simmer  five  minutes. 

Currant  Jetty  Sauce  (for  Mutton) .  —  Make  one  cup  of 


1 92  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

brown  sauce,  strain  it,  and  add  half  a  cup  of>  melted  currant 
jelly.  Heat  till  the  jelly  is  well  mixed,  and  serve  very 
hot. 

Olive  Sauce  (for  Roast  Duck) .  —  Soak  twelve  olives 
in  hot  water  enough  to  cover,  thirty  minutes,  to  extract 
the  salt.  Pare  them  round  and  round,  close  to  the  stone, 
leaving  the  pulp  in  a  single  piece,  which  should  curl  back 
into  the  natural  shape  after  the  stone  is  removed.  Make 
one  cup  of  brown  sauce,  add  the  olives,  and  simmer  ten 
minutes. 

Cumberland  Sauce.  —  To  one  cup  of  brown  sauce  add  one 
teaspoonful  of  made  mustard,  two  tablespoonfals  of  currant 
ielly,  and  two  tablespoon/ids  of  wine. 

Flemish  Sauce  (for  Beef  or  Veal) .  —  Cut  a  cupful  of 
the  red  part  of  carrot  into  quarter-inch  dice,  and  cook  in 
boiling  salted  water  till  tender.  Make  one  cup  of  brown 
sauce,  add  the  cooked  carrot,  half  a  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  one  tablespoonful  each  of  chopped  pickles  and  grated 
horseradish. 

Sauce  a  la  Italienne.  —  Fry  one  tablespoonfid  of  fine  chopped 
shalots  in  one  tablespoonful  of  salad  oil  till  yellow.  Add  one 
bay  leaf,  a  sprig  of  parsley,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
mushrooms;  fry  five  minutes.  Remove  the  bay  leaf,  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  mix  well,  and  add  one  cup  of 
stock.  When  smooth,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  mushroom 
catchup,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  essence  of  anchovy.  Serve 
without  straining. 

Chestnut  Sauce  (for  Roast  Turkey). — Remove  the  shells 
from  one  pint  of  large  chestnuts.  Scald  or  boil  them 
three  minutes  to  loosen  the  inner  skin.  Remove  the  skin  ; 
break  them  in  halves,  and  look  them  over  carefully.  Cook 
in  salted  boiling  water  or  stock  till  very  soft.  Mash  fine  in 
the  water  in  which  they  were  boiled.  Cook  one  tablespoon- 
ful of  flour  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  brown  butter,  stir  into 
the  chestnuts  and  cook  five  minutes.  .  Add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste. 

The  boiled  chestnuts  may  be  added  to  the  gravy  made 
from  the  drippings  of  the  poultry,  or  to  one  cup  of  white 


Meat  Sauces.  193 


sauce.  Common  chestnuts  are  much  sweeter  and  more 
highly  flavored,  but  it  takes  a  long  time  to  prepare  them. 

Peanut  Sauce  may  be  made  in  the  same  manner. 

Port  Wine  Sauce  (for  Venison).  —  Half  a  cup  of  port 
wine,  half  a  glass  of  melted  currant  jelly,  one  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  a  little  cayenne  pepper,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
half  a  cup  of  thick  brown  stock,  or  half  a  cup  of  the  drippings 
from  the  meat  freeci  from  fat.  Heat  all  together  till  very 
hot. 

Espagnole  Sauce.  —  Boil  one  quart  of  strong  consomme  or 
rich,  highly  seasoned  brown  stock,  till  reduced  to  one  pint. 
Then  use  it  as  given  under  the  rule  for  brown  sauce,  and 
flavor  with  wine. 

Bread  Sauce  (for  Game). 


1  pint  milk. 

>£  cup  fine  bread  crumbs. 

2  tablespoonfuls  chopped  onion. 
1  tablespoonf  ul  butter. 


%  teaspoonful  salt. 
%  saltspoonful  pepper. 
%  cup  coarse  bread  crumbi, 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 


Boil  the  fine  bread  crumbs  and  onion  in  the  milk  fifteen 
minutes,  and  add  the  butter,  salt,  and  pepper.  Fry  the 
coarse  bread  crumbs  in  another  tablespoonful  of  butter  till 
brown.  Pour  the  sauce  around  the  birds,  and  sprinkle  the 
brown  crumbs  over  the  whole. 

Soubise  Sauce  (for  Lamb  or  Mutton  Chop). 

Boil  three  large  onions  till  very  soft.  Drain,  and  rub  the 
onion  through  a  sieve.  Stir  the  onion  pulp  into  half  a  pint 
of  white  sauce  made  with  milk  or  cream. 

Tomato  Sauce  (for  Macaroni). 

Stew  half  a  can  of  tomatoes  and  half  a  small  onion  ten 
minutes.  Rub  all  the  tomato  pulp  through  a  strainer. 
Cook  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  and  one  heaping  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  in  a  granite  saucepan ;  add  the  strained 
tomatoes  gradually,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt  and  a  shake 
of  white  pepper. 

13 


194  Th*e  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Tomato  Sauce  (for  Chops  or  Fish). 


%  can  tomatoes. 

1  cup  water. 

2  cloves. 

2  allspice  berries. 

2  peppercorns. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  mixed  herbs. 


2  sprigs  parsley. 

1  tablespoonful  chopped  onion, 

1  tablespoonful  butter. 

1  heaping  tablesp.  cornstarch. 

j^  teaspoonful  salt. 

^  saltspoonful  pepper. 


Put  the  tomato,  water,  spices,  herbs,  and  parsley  on  to 
boil  in  a  granite  saucepan.  Fry  the  onion  in  the  butter 
till  yellow,  add  the  cornstarch,  and  stir  all  into  the  tomato. 
Simmer  ten  minutes  ;  add  the  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little 
cayenne  pepper,  and  strain  the  sauce  over  boiled  meat  or 
fish. 

Hollandaise  Sauce  (for  Baked  or  Boiled  Fish).  (Miss  ParloaJ 


%  cup  butter. 
Yolks  of  2  eggs. 
Juice  of  %  lemon. 


I  saltspoonful  salt. 

%  saltspoonful  cayenne  pepper. 

%  cup  boiling  water. 


Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream  in  a  small  bowl  with  a  wooden 
or  silver  spoon.  Add  the  yolks,  one  at  a  time,  and  beat 
well ;  then  add  the  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  pepper.  About 
five  minutes  before  serving,  add  the  boiling  water.  Place 
the  bowl  in  a  saucepan  of  boiling  water  and  stir  rapidly 
until  it  thickens  like  boiled  custard.  Pour  the  sauce 
around  the  meat  or  fish.1 


Tartar  Sauce  (Hot,  for  Broiled  Fish). 


1  tablespoonful  vinegar. 
1  teaspoonful  lemon  juice. 
1  saltspoonful  salt. 


1  tablespoonful  Worcestershire 


sauce. 


%  cup  butter. 


Mix  the  vinegar,  lemon  juice,  salt,  and  Worcestershire 
sauce  in  a  small  bowl,  and  heat  over  hot  water.  Brown 
the  butter  in  an  omelet  pan,  and  strain  into  the  other 
mixture. 

1  Sprinkle  chopped  parsley  and  pickles  over  the  sauce  if  you  like. 


Cold  Sauces. 


Tartar  Sauce  (for  Broiled  or  Devilled  Chicken). 

One  tablespoonful  each  of  mustard,  Chili  vinegar,  shalot 
vinegar,  and  claret  wine,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Harvey 
tauce.  Heat  in  a  bowl  over  hot  water,  and  pour  it  over 
the  chicken. 

Horseradish  Sauce  (Hot,  for  Beef). 


4  tablesp.  grated  horseradish. 
4  tablesp.  powdered  cracker. 
3^  cup  cream. 
1  teaspoonful  powdered  sugar. 


1  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  saltspoonful  pepper. 

1  teaspoonful  made  mustard. 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar. 


Mix,  and  heat  over  hot  water. 

Horseradish  Sauce  (Cold). 

Cream  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  butter  till  very  light ;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  grated  horseradish,  one  tablespoonful 
of  very  thick  cream,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  Tarragon 
vinegar.  Keep  it  on  the  ice  till  thick  and  cold. 

Sauce  Tartare  (Cold,  for  Fried  or  Boiled  Fish,  Tongue, 
Fish  Salad,  or  Broiled  Chicken). 


1  teaspoonful  mustard. 

Y2  saltspoonful  pepper. 

1  teaspoonful  powdered  sugar. 

1  saltspoonful  salt. 

Few  drops  onion  juice. 

Yolks  2  raw  eggs. 


8  tablespoonfuls  vinegar. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  olives. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  capers. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  cucum- 
ber pickles. 
1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 


%  cup  oil. 

Mix  in  the  order  given ;  add  the  yolks,  and  stir  well ; 
add  the  oil  slowl}*,  then  the  vinegar  and  chopped  ingre- 
dients. This  will  keep  for  several  weeks. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Butter  (Cold,  for  Beefsteak). 


%  cup  butter. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

3^  saltspoonful  pepper. 


1  tablespoonful  chopped  parsley. 
1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 


Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream  ;  add  salt,  pepper,  parsley, 
and  lernop  iuice.     Snread  it  on  hot  beefsteak. 


ig6  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Maitre  d'Hotel  Sauce  (Hot). 

Add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs  to  the  cold  Maitre  tf  Ho- 
tel butter,  and  when  ready  to  serve  add  one  pint  of  drawn 
butter,  made  with  strong  white  stock. 

Sauce  for  Fish  Balls  (Cold). 


2  teaspoonfuls  dry  mustard. 
1  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  teaspoonful  sugar. 


1  teaspoonful  flour 

1  teaspoonful  soft  butter. 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  in  a  granite  saucepan ;  add 
half  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  it 
thickens  and  is  smooth.  Serve  it  cold. 


Mint  Sauce  (for  Lamb). 

1  cup  fresh  chopped  mint.        I         ^  cup  vinegar. 
^  cup  sugar. 

Use  only  the  leaves  and  tender  tips  of  the  mint.  Let  it 
stand  an  hour  before  serving.  Use  more  sugar  if  the  vin- 
egar be  very  strong. 

Bearnaise  Sauce. 

Heat  two  tablespoons  of  Tarragon  vinegar  and  two  of 
water,  and  steep  in  it  a  slice  of  onion.  Cream  four 
tablespoons  of  butter  very  light.  Beat  the  yolks  of  four 
eggs  slightly,  add  half  a  teaspoon  salt  and  one  salt- 
spoon  paprika.  Remove  the  onion,  and  add  the  hot  liquid 
to  the  egg.  Cook  over  the  fire,  stirring  constantly  until 
it  is  thick  and  smooth.  Lift  it  up  frequently,  and  stir 
well  from  the  bottom.  Often  the  heat  in  the  thickened 
portion  is  sufficient  to  cook  the  remainder.  When  all 
thickened,  add  the  creamed  butter,  a  fourth  at  a  time, 
and  stir  each  portion  until  well  blended.  Serve  it  on 
broiled  steak  or  chops. 

For  fish,  add  one  tablespoon  each  of  fine  chopped 
pickles,  and  parsley. 


Eggs.  197 


EG-G-S. 

WHATEVER  else  you  may  economize  in,  do  not  limit  your 
family  in  respect  to  eggs.  They  are  nutritious,  and  even 
at  four  cents  each  are  cheaper  than  meat.  The}'  should 
be  used  freely  by  ah1  except  those  who  know  the}'  cannot 
digest  them.  Using  freely  does  not  mean  their  unnecessary 
or  extravagant  use  in  rich  cakes,  custards,  etc.,  nor  in  the 
indigestible  form  of  fried  or  what  is  ordinarily  called  hard- 
boiled  eggs ;  but  it  means  the  frequent  use  of  them  in  any 
of  the  simple  forms  of  boiling,  baking,  omelets,  plain  cake, 
and  other  wholesome  combinations.  It  is  very  poor  econ- 
omy, especially  for  those  who  keep  hens,  to  exchange  eggs 
for  corned  beef  or  salt  fish ;  or  to  use  soda  and  cream  of 
tartar  as  a  substitute  for  eggs  in  sponge  cake,  or  half- 
cooked  flour  in  an  omelet.  They  may  be  served  in  an 
unlimited  variety  of  styles,  are  especially  suitable  for 
breakfast  or  lunch,  attractive  as  a  garnish,  and  when 
combined  with  sugar  and  milk  make  the  most  healthful 
puddings,  desserts,  or  tea  dishes. 

But  though  a  type  of  perfect  food,  eggs  are  not  intended 
to  be  eaten  exclusively,  any  more  than  other  foods.  They 
are  one  of  the  most  highly  concentrated  forms  of  food,  and, 
being  wholly  destitute  of  starch,  should  be  eaten  witli 
bread  or  rice. 

The  white  of  the  egg  has  but  a  trace  of  fat  in  it,  anci 
requires  the  addition  of  butter,  milk,  or  fat  meat,  like 
bacon  or  ham.  The  white  of  egg  contains  water,  mineral 
ingredients,  and  soluble  albumen ;  the  yolk  has,  in  addi- 
tion to  these,  oil  and  sulphur.  The  albumen  is  enclosed 
in  layers  of  thin- walled  cells.  When  beaten,  these  walls 
break,  and  the  albumen,  owing  to  its  glutinous  nature, 
catches  and  holds  the  air,  and  increases  to  many  times  its 
original  bulk. 


1 98  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Do  not  use  an  egg  till  it  has  been  laid  ten  hours,  as  the 
white  does  not  become  set  or  thick  till  then,  and  cannot  be 
beaten  stiff.  Eggs  for  poaching  or  boiling  are  best  when 
thirty-six  hours  old.  Albumen,  when  heated,  becomes  a 
dense  solid  ;  if  mixed  and  heated  with  a  liquid,  it  hardens 
and  entangles  in  its  meshes  any  solids  or  impurities  in  the 
liquid,  and  rises  to  the  surface  with  them  as  scum,  or  pre 
cipitates  them.  It  is  thus  the  white  of  egg  clears  soups, 
jellies,  and  coffee.  Strong  acids,  corrosive  sublimate, 
and  creosote  will  also  coagulate  albumen ;  and  there- 
fore, if  any  of  these  poisons  be  taken  into  the  system, 
the  white  of  egg,  swallowed  quickly,  will  combine  with 
the  poison  and  protect  the  stomach. 

The  shells  of  newly  laid  eggs  are  almost  full ;  but  as 
the  shells  are  porous,  on  exposure  to  the  air,  the  water 
inside  evaporates,  and  the  eggs  grow  lighter,  while  air 
rushes  in  to  fill  the  place  of  the  water,  and  causes  the 
nitrogenous  elements  to  decompose,  and  the  eggs  soon 
spoil.  This  explains  why  a  good  egg  is  heavy,  and  will 
sink  in  water;  and  why  a  stale  egg  is  lighter,  has  a 
rattling  or  gurgling  sound,  and  floats  in  the  water.  Any- 
thing which  will  fill  up  the  pores  and  thus  exclude  the 
air,  when  applied  to  perfectly  fresh  eggs,  will  preserve 

•  them  indefinitely ;  a  coating  of  liquid  fat  or  gum,  or  a 
packing  in  Dran  or  salt,  with  the  small  end  downward,  is 
effectual.  Eggs  should  be  kept  in  a  cool,  dark  place, 
and  handled  carefully,  as  any  rough  motion  may  cause 
the  white  and  yolk  to  become  mixed,  by  rupturing  the 
membrane  which  separates  them,  and  then  the  egg  spoils 
quickly. 

Never  buy  eggs  about  the  freshness  of  which  you  have 
any  doubt,  not  even  in  winter.  One  can  easily  judge 
which  is  the  better  economy,  —  to  pay  twenty-five  or  thirty 
cents  a  dozen,  and  find  none  of  them  full  and  fresh,  and 
perhaps  half  of  them  really  rotten  ;  or  to  pay  fifty  cents, 
and  obtain  them  freshly  laid,  —  not  merely  fresh  from  the 
country, — and  all  sound  and  good.  Eggs  with  a  dark 

\  shell  are  richer  and  have  larger  yolks.     Eggs  are  of  better 


Boiled  Eggs.  199 


flavor  and  more  palatable  in  the  spring,  but  are  good 
and  suitable,  if  perfectly  fresh,  at  any  season. 


Boiled  Eggs  (the  Best  Way). 

Put  the  eggs  in  a  saucepan,  cover  with  boiling  water, 
and  let  them  stand  about  ten  minutes  where  the  water 
will  keep  hot  (180°),  but  not  boiling.  The  white  should 
be  of  a  soft  jelly-like  consistency,  and  the  yolk  soft  but 
not  liquid.  Experience  will  show  the  exact  time  to  keep 
the  eggs  in  the  water  to  suit  individual  tastes.  They 
should  be  served  immediately,  as  they  harden  by  being 
kept  in  the  hot  shell.  An  egg,  to  be  cooked  soft,  should 
never  be  cooked  in  boiling  water,  as  the  white  hardens  un- 
evenly before  the  heat  reaches  the  yolk. 

Hard-boiled  Eggs.  —  Cook  eggs  for  twenty  minutes  in 
water  just  below  the  boiling-point,  for  use  in  any  receipt 
which  specifies  hard-boiled  eggs.  The  yolk  of  an  egg  cooked 
ten  minutes  is  tough  and  indigestible  ;  twenty  minutes  will 
make  the  yolk  dry  and  mealy ;  then  it  may  be  more  easily 
rubbed  smooth  for  salad  or  other  mixtures,  and  more 
quickly  penetrated  by  the  gastric  fluid.  If  the  shell  of  an 
egg  be  cracked  before  boiling,  pierce  several  small  holes  | 
in  the  large  end  to  keep  the  contents  from  bursting  out  at 
the  crack. 

Dropped  or  Poached  Eggs  on  Toast. 

Toast  a  slice  of  bread  for  each  egg,  and  trim  neatly,  or 
cut  with  a  round  cutter  before  toasting.  Have  a  very 
clean  shallow  pan  nearly  full  of  salted  and  boiling  water. 
Remove  all  the  scum,  and  let  the  water  simmer.  Break 
each  egg  carefully  into  a  cup,  and  slip  it  gently  into  the 
water.  Dip  the  water  over  them  with  a  spoon,  and  when 
a  film  has  formed  on  the  }*olk  and  the  white  is  firm,  take 
each  up  with  a  skimmer ;  drain,  trim  the  edges,  and  place 
on  the  toast.  Put  a  bit  of  butter  and  a  little  salt  and 
pepper  on  each  egg;  or  make  a  thin  cream  sauce  and 
pour  it  around  them.  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juict 


20O  The  Boston  Cook  Booh. 

in  the  water,  or  poach  the  eggs  in  muffin-rings  to  give 
them  a  better  shape.  An  egg-poacher,  something  like  a 
castor  with  perforated  cups,  is  very  convenient. 

No.  2.  —  Spread  the  toast  with  butter  and  anchovy 
paste  or  sardine  paste,  and  serve  a  poached  egg  on  each 
slice ;  or  spread  the  toast  with  potted  or  finely  minced 
boiled  ham. 

Ham  and  Eggs.  —  Serve  poached  eggs  on  thin  slices  of 
broiled  or  fried  ham ;  when  served  on  hot,  highly  seasoned 
boiled  rice,  they  are  called  Spanish  Eggs. 

Eggs  poached  in  Tomatoes,  or  a  la  Dauphine<     (M.  L. 
Clarke.)  —  Stew  slowly  for  ten  minutes  half  a  can  of  toma- 
toes and  one  small  onion,  cut  fine.     Season  highly  with  salt 
and  pepper  and  butter.     Break  six  eggs  into  a  bowl  with- 
out beating,  and  when  everything  else  is  ready  to  serve 
slip  them  into  the  hot  tomatoes.     Lift  the  white  care- 
fully with  a  fork,  as  it  cooks,  until  it  is  all  firm ;  then 
prick  the  yolks  and  let  them  mix  with  the  tomato  and 
white.     It  should  be  quite  soft,  but  with  the  red  toma- 
toes, the  white  and   yellow  of   the   egg,  quite   distinct. 
Serve  at  once  on  toast. 

Scrambled  Eggs.  —  Beat  four  eggs  slightly  with  a  fork ; 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
and  half  a  cup  of  milk.  Turn  into  a  hot  buttered  omelet 
pan  and  cook  quickly,  stirring  all  the  time  till  the  egg  is 
firm  but  soft.  Serve  on  toast  or  with  hot  minced  ham  or 
veal.  Any  of  the  ingredients  given  in  fancy  omelets  may 
be  mixed  with  the  beaten  eggs  before  cooking. 

No.  2.  —  Put  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  an  omelet  pan: 
when  hot,  add  three  whole  eggs  ;  stir  quickly  till  the  mix- 
ture is  firm  but  soft.  Add  a  little  salt  and  pepper,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Omelets. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  till  light-colored  and  thick ; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and 
one  fourth  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Beat  the  white* 
of  two  eggs  till  stiff  and  dry.  Cut  and  fold  them  lightly 
into  the  yolks  till  just  covered.  Have  a  clean,  smooth 


Omelets,  201 


omelet  pan.  When  hot,  rub  it  round  the  edge  with  a 
teaspoonful  of  butter  on  a  broad  knife ;  let  the  butter  run 
ah1  over  the  pan  and  when  bubbling  turn  in  the  pmelet 
quickly  and  spread  it  evenly  on  the  pan.  Lift  the  pan 
from  the  hottest  part  of  the  fire  and  cook  carefully,  until 
slightly  browned 
underneath ;  slip 
the  knife  under 
to  keep  it  from 
burning  in  the 
middle.  Put  it  on 
the  oven  grate  to  p^.  10.  Plain  Omelet 

dry  (not  brown) 

the  top.  When  the  whole  centre  is  dry  as  you  cut  into  it, 
run  a  knife  round  the  edge,  then  under  the  half  nearest 
the  handle,  and  fold  over  to  the  right.  Hold  the  edge  of 
a  hot  platter  against  the  lower  edge  of  the  pan,  and  in- 
vert the  omelet  upon  the  platter.  Or  add  only  half  of  the 
beaten  whites  to  the  yolks,  and  when  nearly  cooked  spread 
the  remainder  over  the  top  ;  let  it  heat  through  ;  fold  over, 
and  the  white  will  burst  out  round  the  edge  like  a  border 
of  foam,  making  &foam  omelet,  or  an}'  fancy  name  you  may 
choose  to  give  it. 

If  }'ou  have  no  omelet  pan,  or  no  convenience  for  dry- 
ing the  omelet  in  the  oven,  use  a  smooth  iron  spider  or 
ftying-pan  with  a  tin  cover,  and  double  the  quantities 
given.  Heat  the  pan  and  the  cover  very  hot.  Butter  the 
pan,  turn  in  the  mixture,  cover -it,  and  place  on  the  back 
of  the  stove  for  five  minutes,  or  till  firm.  Fold  as  usual. 
Omelets  should  be  only  slightly  browned,  never  burned, 
as  the  flavor  of  scorched  egg  is  not  agreeable. 

One  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  or  a  teaspoonful  of 
fine  grated  onion,  or  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  grated 
sweet  corn  may  be  added  to  the  yolks  before  cooking. 

Thin  slices  of  cold  ham,  or  three  spoonfuls  of  chopped  ham, 
veal,  or  chicken;  stewed  tomatoes  or  raw  tomatoes  sliced; 
chopped  mushrooms,  shrimps,  oysters  which  have  been  par 
boiled  and  drained  ;  cooked  clams,  chopped  fine  ;  or  gratea 


2O2  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

cheese,  —  may  be  spread  on  the  omelet  before  folding, 
giving  all  the  varieties  of  fancy  omelets,  each  variety  taking 
the  name  of  the  additional  ingredient. 

2^0.  2.  —  Beat  six  eggs  until  light  and  foamy  with  a  Dover 
egg-beater ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  scant  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  cup  of  milk.    Fry  a  large  spoon- 
ful at  a  time  in  a  hot  pan  or  on  a  griddle,  and  roll  over 
quickly  like  a  French  pancake.     This  is  a  convenient  way 
"where  the  family  coma irregularly  to  breakfast.     The  mix- 
£/ ture  mav  stand  for  some  time  if  beaten  again  thoroughly 
before  frying. 

Creamy  Omelet.  (Mrs.  Ewing.}  — Beat/owr  eggs  slightly 
with  a  spoon  till  you  can  take  up  a  spoonful.  Add  a 
scant  half-teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  milk  or  cream,  and  mix  well.  Butter 
a  hot  omelet  pan,  and  before  the  butter  browns  turn  in 
the  mixture.  Then  with  the  point  of  a  fork  pick  or  lift 
up  the  cooked  egg  from  the  centre  and  let  the  uncooked 
egg  run  under.  This  leaves  the  butter  on  the  pan,  and 
is  better  than  stirring.  Continue  the  lifting  until  the  whole 
is  of  a  soft  creamy  consistency ;  then  place  it  over  a 
hotter  part  of  the  fire  to  brown  slightly  ;  fold  and  turn  out 
as  usual. 

Sweet  or  Jelly  Omelet.  —  Allow  a  teaspoonful  of  powdered 
sugar  to  each  egg,  and  omit  the  pepper.  Mix  and  cook 
as  in  Omelet  No.  1,  and  when  ready  to  fold  put  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  an}T  kind  of  preserves,  marmalade, 
or  jelly  on  the  top.  Fold  and  sprinkle  with  sugar. 

Orange  Omelet.  —  The  thinly 
grated  rind  of  one  orange  and 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  the 
juice,  three  eggs,  and  three  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  suqar. 
Fio.  11.  Orange  Omelet.  Y=»  ,  *\ ,  „ r  y 

Beat  the  yolks;  add  the  sugar, 

rind,  and  juice;  fold  in  the  beaten  whites,  and  cook  as 
in  Omelet,  No.  1.  Fold,  turn  out,  sprinkle  thickly 
with  powdered  sugar,  and  score  in  diagonal  lines  with  a 
clean  red-hot  poker.  The  burnt  sugar  gives  to  the  omelet 


Baked  Eggs.  203 


a  delicious  flavor.  Or  cut  the  orange  into  sections,  re- 
move the  seeds  and  tough  inner  skin;  cut  each  section 
into  pieces,  and  mix  with  the  3'olks  before  cooking ;  or 
spread  part  of  the  orange  over  the  omelet  before  folding, 
and  sprinkle  the  remainder  over  the  sugared  top. 

This  is  a  convenient  dessert  for  an  emergency,  and  may 
be  prepared  in  ten  minutes  if  one  have  the  oranges. 

Omelet  Souffle.  —  Allow  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  pow- 
dered sugar,  a  few  drops  of  lemon  or  vanilla  for  flavoring, 
and  two  whites  to  each  yolk.  To  make  a  small  omelet, 
beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  till  light  and  thick ;  add  two 
heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful of  lemon  or  vanilla.  Beat  the  whites  of  four  eggs  till 
stiff  and  dry,  and  fold  them  li^itly  into  the  yolks.  Put  it 
by  the  tablespoonfuls  lightly  into  a  well-buttered  baking- 
dish.  Cook  in  a  moderate  oven  about  twelve  minutes,  or 
till  well  puffed  up  and  a  straw  comes  out  clean.  Serve  at 
once,  as  it  falls  quickly. 

Baked  Eggs. 

Small  stone  china  dishes  or  egg-shirrers,  holding  one  01 
two  eggs  for  each  person,  are  convenient  for  this  method 
of  serving  eggs ;  or  use  a  common  platter  placed  over  hot 
water  ;  or  bake  in  the  sheHsiu  a  moderate  oven  ten  minutes, 
first  pricking  several  holes  with  a  large  pin  in  the  large  end 
of  the  egg,  to  keep  the  air  within  from  bursting  the  shell 
as  it  expands < 

No.  1.  — Break  ea<jh  egg  into  a  cup,  being  careful  not  to 
break  the  yolk,  and  put  the  eggs  on  a  hot  buttered  dish 
suitable  for  serving.  Put  a  little  salt  on  each  egg,  Bake 
until  the  white  is  firm.  Add  a  little  butter  and  serve 
at  once.  Garnish  each  egg  with  thin  strips  of  breakfast 
bacon. 

No.  2. —  Cover  the  buttered  dish  withjine  cracker  crumbs. 
Put  each  egg  carefully  in  the  dish,  and  cover  lightly  with 
seasoned  and  buttered  crumbs.  Bake  till  the  crumbs  are 
brown. 


2O4  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

No.  3.  —  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
salt  slightly.  Spread  it  roughly  on  a  platter;  make  a 
nest  or  cavity  for  each  yolk  some  distance  apart.  Season, 
and  bake  till  the  white  is  brown. 

No.  4.  —  Cover  the  dish  with  any  poultry  gravy  you  may 
chance  to  have,  or  with  white  sauce,  and  have  a  slice  of 
toast  or  bread  sauted  for  each  egg.  Set  the  platter  in  the 
oven  over  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  when  toast  and  gravy 
are  hot  drop  the  eggs  on  the  toast,  and  bake  till  the  eggs 
are  set. 

Eggs  en  Coquille. —  Cut  slices  of  stale  bread  in  large  rounds  ; 
then  with  a  smaller  cutter  cut  half-way  through  and  scoop 
out  the  centre,  leaving  them  shaped  like  a  pate  shell,  with 
the  cavity  large  enough  to  hold  one  egg.  Dip  these  bread 
shells  in  raw  egg,  beaten  with  a  little  milk,  and  saute,  or 
fry  them  in  hot  fat.  Put  them  on  a  platter  covered  with 
hot  white  sauce  or  poultry  gravy,  and  serve  a  poached  egg 
in  each  shell ;  or  put  a  raw  egg  in  each  and  bake  till  the 
eggs  are  set.  Half  a  cup  of  chopped  or  sliced  mushrooms 
may  be  cooked  in  the  gravy.  The  shells  may  be  toasted  if 
you  prefer. 

No.  2.  — Take  half  a  cup  of  soft  bread  crumbs,  an  equal 
amount  of  fine  chopped  ham  or  tongue,  and  a  little  pepper, 
salt,  parsley,  mustard,  and  melted  butter.  Make  it  into  a 
smooth  paste  with  hot  milk  or  cream.  Spread  the  mixture 
on  some  scallop  shells.  Break  the  eggs  carefully,  and  put 
one  in  the  centre  of  each  shell ;  sprinkle  with  a  little  salt 
and  pepper,  and^/me  cracker  crumbs  moistened  with  melted 
butter.  Set  in  the  oven,  and  bake  five  or  six  minutes,  or 
until  the  egg  is  firm.  Or  put  the  bread  and  meat  mixture 
in  a  baking-dish,  shaping  it  a  little  to  hold  six  or  seven 
raw  eggs ;  cover  lightly  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  till 
the  whites  of  the  eggs  are  firm. 

Eggs  and  Minced  Meat.  —  Chop  one  pint  of  cold  chicken , 
ham,  or  veal  fine,  and  rub  it  to  a  smooth  paste  ;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  melted  butter,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and  two  beaten  eggs.  If  too  dry, 
moisten  with  a  little  cream,  or  stock  or  gravy,  but  do  not 


Hard  Boiled  Eggs.  205 

have  it  too  soft  to  shape.  Heat  it  in  a  frying-pan  just 
enough  to  warm  through,  letting  it  dry  off'  if  too  moist. 
Form  it  on  a  hot  platter  into  a  flat  mound  ;  hollow  the  cen- 
tre, leaving  a  ridge  of  the  mixture  round  the  edge.  Keep 
it  hot,  and  put  three  or  four  poached  eggs  in  the  centre- 


FIG.  12.     Eggs  and  Minced  Meat 

Garnish  with  triangles  of  toast  laid  round  the  base  of  the 
meat.  Or,  if  you  have  a  larger  quantity  of  meat,  prepare 
as  above,  and  make  a  mound  one  inch  deep  on  a  round 
dish  and  a  smaller  mound  above  that,  and  place  eggs 
baked  in  cups,  or  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  in  halves,  or  egg 
baskets  on  the  space  between  the  mounds.  Garnish  with 
parsley. 

Pannikins.  —  Warm  minced  ham  or  tongue  or  veal  in  a 
thick  cream  sauce,  and  pile  it  in  the  centre  of  a  platter. 
Heat  and  butter  some  earthen  cups,  break  an  egg  in  each, 
and  bake  till  the  egg  is  firm.  Turn  them  out  and  arrange 
round  the  meat. 


Various  Ways  of  Serving  Hard-boiled  Eggs. 

Curried  Eggs.  —  Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Remove 
the  shells  and  cut  into  halves  or  slices.  Fry  one  teaspoon- 
ftd  of  chopped  onion  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  being 
careful  not  to  burn  it;  add  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
flour  or  one  even  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch  mixed  with  halj 
a  tablespoonful  of  curry  powajer.  Pour  on  slowly  one  cup 
and  a  half  of  white  stock  or  milk  or  cream  ;  add  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  till  the  onions  are  soft.  Add 


206  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  eggs,  and  when  warmed  through  serve  in  a  shallow 
dish ;  or  arrange  the  eggs  on  hot  toast,  and  pour  the 
sauce  over  them ;  or  cover  with  buttered  crumbs  and  bake 
till  the  crumbs  are  brown. 

Egg  Vermicelli. — Boil  three  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Sepa- 
rate the  yolks  and  chop  the  whites  fine.  Toast  four  slices 
of  bread ;  cut  half  into  small  squares  and  half  into  points 
or  triangles.  Make  one  cup  of  thin  white  sauce  with  one 
cup  of  cream  or  milk,  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  one  heaping 
teaspoonful  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  half  a 
saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Stir  the  whites  into  the  sauce,  and 
when  hot  pour  it  over  the  squares  of  toast.  Rub  the 
yolks  through  a  fine  strainer  over  the  whole,  and  garnish 
with  a  border  of  toast  points  and  a  bit  of  parsley  in  the 
centre. 

Or  cut  the  bread  into  rounds  before  toasting.  Pour  the 
white  sauce  on  the  hot  platter,  and  put  the  rounds  of  toast 
on  the  sauce  some  distance  apart.  Put  a  little  of  the 
chopped  white  on  each  slice,  pile  it  high  on  the  edge,  rub 
the  yolks  through  a  fine  strainer  over  the  centre,  and  lay 
small  sprigs  of  fine  parsley  between  the  toast. 

Stuffed  Eggs.  —  Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Re- 
move the  shells  and  cut  carefully  lengthwise.  Remove 
the  yolks,  and  put  the  two  whites  of  each  egg  together, 

that  they  may  not  become 
mixed.  Mash  the  yolks, 
and  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
soft  butter,  a  few  drops  of 
onion  juice,  and  half  the 
quantity  of  potted  or  dev- 

Fio.  13.    Stuffed  Eggs  garnished  with       *  <y  ^ 

Parsley,  illed  ham  or  tongue.     Or,  if 

minced  chicken,  lamb,  or  veal 

be  used,  season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  and 
cayenne  or  chopped  parsley.  Fill  the  whites  with  the  mix- 
ture, smooth  them,  and  press  the  two  halves  together, 
being  careful  to  fit  them  just  as  they  were  cut.  Spread 
the  remainder  of  the  yolk  mixture  on  a  shallow  dish  and 
place  the  eggs  on  >t.  Cover  with  a  thin  white  sauce,  or 


Fancy  Eggs.  207 


any  chicken  or  veal  gravy  ;  sprinkle  buttered  crumbs  over  the 
whole,  and  bake  till  the  crumbs  are  a  delicate  brown. 

No.  2. — After  the  eggs  are  filled  with  the  mixture  and 
put  together  as  above,  roll  each  egg  in  fine  bread  crumbs 
and  beaten  egg  and  in  crumbs  again,  then  repeat  the  pro- 
cess, and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  hot 
with  tomato  sauce  or  garnished  with  parsley. 

Scotch  Eggs.  —  One  cup  of  lean  cooked  ham  chopped 
very  fine  ;  six  hard-boiled  eggs.  Cook  one  third  of  a  cup  of 
stale  bread  crumbs  in  one  third  of  a  cup  of  milk  to  a  smooth 
paste.  Mix  it  with  the  ham ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
mixed  mustard,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cayenne,  and  one  raw 
egg.  Mix  well,  remove  the  shells  from  the  eggs,  and  cover 
with  the  mixture.  Fry  in  hot  fat  two  minutes.  Drain, 
and  serve  hot  or  cold,  for  lunch  or  picnics.  Cut  them  into 
halves  lengthwise,  and  arrange  each  half  on  a  bed  of  fine 
parsley.  The  contrast  between  the  green,  red,  white,  and 
yellow  gives  a  very  pretty  effect. 

No.  2. — Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Make  a  force- 
meat with  one  cup  of  any  kind  of  cold  meat  finely  chopped, 
half  a  cup  of  soft  bread  crumbs  cooked  to  a  paste,  in  one 
third  of  a  cup  of  milk  and  one  raw  egg,  beaten  light,  using 
just  enough  of  the  egg  to  unite  the  mixture,  being  careful 
not  to  have  it  too  soft. 

If  chicken  be  used,  season  with  chopped  parsley  and  a 
pinch  of  herbs ;  season  ham  with  mustard  and  cayenne ; 
veal,  with  lemon  juice  or  horseradish;  and  salmon,  with 
lemon  and  cayenne. 

Divide  the  eggs  crosswise  or  lengthwise,  or  leave  them 
whole.  Cover  each  half  or  whole  egg  thickly  with  the 
force-meat,  and  place  them  on  a  buttered  tin  pan  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  till  slightly  browned.  Arrange  on  a  hot 
platter  with  a  white  sauce  poured  around  (not  over)  them. 

Scalloped  Eggs.  — Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Make 
one  pint  of  white  sauce  with  stock  and  cream  or  milk,  and 
season  to  taste.  Moisten  one  cup  of  fine  cracker  crumbs 
in  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter  or  cream.  Chop 
fine  one  cup  of  ham,  tongue,  poultry,  or  fish.  Remove  the 


208  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

yolks  of  the  eggs,  and  chop  the  whites  fine.  Put  a  layer  of 
buttered  crumbs  in  a  buttered  scallop  dish,  then  a  layer  of 
chopped  whites,  white  sauce,  minced  meat,  yolks  rubbed 
through  a  fine  strainer,  and  so  on,  until  the  material  is  all 
used,  having  the  buttered  crumbs  on  the  top.  Bake  till 
the  crumbs  are  brown. 

Egg  Balls  in  Baskets. — Boil  three  eggs  twenty  minutes. 
Remove  the  shells,  cut  off  a  thin  slice  at  each  end,  that 
the  eggs  may  stand  upright,  and  cut  in  halves  crosswise. 
Remove  the  yolks,  and  stand  the  cups  or  baskets  thus  made 
around  the  edge  of  a  platter.  Rub  the  yolks  to  a  smooth 
paste ;  add  an  equal  amount  of  cooked  ham  or  tongue, 
chopped  fine,  one  taUespoonful  of  melted  butter,  salt,  pep- 
per, and  mustard  to  taste.  Make  into  balls  the  size  of 
the  original  yolks,  and  fill  the  cups.  Make  one  cup  of 
white  sauce,  with  cream  or  milk  and  white  stock,  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Pour  it  in  the  centre  of  the  eggs. 
Set  the  platter  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes,  and  when  ready 
to  serve  put  a  tin}*  bit  of  parsley  on  each  ball. 

In  place  of  the  meat,  you  may  use,  if  you  prefer,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese,  a  speck  of  cayenne  pepper, 
and  moisten  with  vinegar  and  olive  oil. 

Eggs  a  la  Creme. 

Boil  three  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Cut  off  a  slice  at  each 
end,  and  cut  the  eggs  in  halves  crosswise.  Remove  the 

yolks,  and  cut  them  in 
thin  slices.  Mix  with 
them  an  equal  amount 
of  small  thin  pieces  of 
cold  chicken,  ham,  salmon, 

FIG.  u.   Eggs  4  la  Creme.  or  lobster,  and  season  to 

taste.      Fill    the    white 

cups  with  the  mixture.  Place  them  on  a  shallow  dish  and 
pour  one  cup  of  thick  cream  sauce  (page  190)  around  them. 
The  sauce  should  come  nearly  to  the  top  of  the  cups.  Or 
cut  the  eggs  in  halves,  and  place  them  with  the  cut  side 
down  and  serve  in  the  sauce. 


Fancy  Eggs.  209 


Eggs  in  a  Nest. 

Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  shells. 
Separate  the  yolks  without  breaking ;  or  rub  them  to  a 
smooth  paste  with  a  little  olive  oil  to  moisten,  and 
shape  into  small  balls.  Cut  the  whites  in  thin  narrow 
slices,  and  mix  with  them  an  equal  quantity  of  fine 
shredded  chicken,  ham,  or  salmon,  and  a  tablespoonful  of  fine 
sprigs  of  parsley.  Pile  this  mixture,  which  should  be  light 
and  dry,  on  a  platter  in  a  circular  or  oval  ring,  and  put 
the  yolks  in  the  centre.  Set  the  platter  in  a  steamer,  to 
heat  the  mixture.  Make  a  pint  of  thick  white  sauce ;  pour 
enough  of  it  round  the  edge  of  the  dish  to  come  half-way 
up  the  nest,  and  serve  the  remainder  in  a  sauce-boat. 

The  same  materials  may  be  served  cold  as  Devilled 
Eggs.  Mix  a  little  cayenne  pepper  and  made  mustard  with 
the  yolks  and  also  with  the  shredded  meat ;  add  a  sprink- 
ling of  vinegar,  and  garnish  the  dish  with  parsley  or  water- 
cresses.  Or  serve  as  a  salad,  garnished  with  cresses  or 
lettuce,  and  sprinkle  a  French  dressing  over  the  whole. 

Egg  Salad  may  be  served  in  this  form.  Cut  the  yolks  in 
dice,  and  mix  them  lightly  with  diced  chicken,  salmon,  fish, 
or  lobster;  fill  the  white  cups  heaping  with  the  mixture, 
and  serve  on  a  bed  of  lettuce  or  cresses,  with  French  or 
Mayonnaise  dressing. 

Egg  Timbales. 

Beat  six  eggs  lightly  with  fork  till  well  mixed,  add  one 
and  one-half  cups  of  milk,  one  teaspoonfal  of  salt,  a  little 
pepper  i  one  teaspoonful  of  minced  parsley,  one-fourth  tea- 
spoonful  of  onion  juice  ;  stir  all  well,  pour  into  well-buttered 
moulds,  —  set  in  pan  of  hot  water,  and  cook  in  moderate 
oven  till  firm.  Serve  with  either  cream  or  tomato  sauce. 

Hot  Eggs. 

Into  a  hot  bowl  kept  in  very  hot  water  break  two  eggs, 
add  one  teaspoon  of  butter  and  a  dash  of  salt  and  pepper, 
beat  them  slightly,  and  when  they  taste  hot,  serve  at 
once.  Excellent  when  nourishment  is  needed  quickly. 

n 


210  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


MEAT. 

MEAT  is  a  general  term  applied  to  the  flesh  of  animals 
used  for  food.  It  includes  the  muscular  flesh,  sinews,  fat, 
heart,  liver,  stomach,  brains,  and  tongue.  Meat  is  divided 
into  three  classes  :  — 

Meat,  including  beef,  veal,  mutton,  lamb,  and  pork. 

Poultry,  including  chicken,  turkey,  geese,  and  ducks,  or 
all  domestic  fowls. 

Game,  including  partridges,  grouse,  pigeons,  quail,  or 
other  birds,  venison,  and  any  wild  meat  that  is  hunted 
in  the  forest  or  field. 

Meat  consists  of  several  substances,  — fibrins,  albumen, 
gelatine,  fat,  and  the  juice  of  flesh. 

Fibrine  exists  in  the  blood  and  flesh.  In  the  former 
it  is  soluble,  owing  to  the  alkaline  nature  of  the  blood  ; 
it  is  deposited  by  the  blood,  made  into  flesh,  and  becomes 
insoluble  flesh- fibrine,  and  forms  the  basis  or  fibre  of  mus- 
cular tissue.  It  is  separated  into  bundles  by  membranes, 
and  into  larger  separate  masses  by  cellular  tissue,  in 
which  fat  is  deposited.  Its  true  color  is  white ;  but  the 
blood  in  the  veins  which  penetrate  every  part  of  the  fibre 
gives  it  a  reddish  tinge.  This  may  be  seen  by  washing 
a  piece  of  lean  meat  in  cold  water.  The  red  coloring 
matter  is  soon  drawn  into  the  water,  and  the  meat  is  a 
mass  of  white  fibre.  Fibrine  is  hardened  and  contracted 
by  intense  heat,  but  softened  by  moderate  and  long- 
continued  heat.  Meat  that  has  tough  fibre  should  simmer 
and  not  boil. 

Albumen  exists  in  the  flesh  and  in  the  blood.  It  is  the 
soluble  portion  of  the  flesh.  It  dissolves  in  cold  water, 
but  hardens  in  hot  water. 

Gelatine  is  a  peculiar  substance  found  in  the  tendons 


Meat.  211 

and  gristly  parts  of  flesh,  the  shin,  and  the  sinewy  parts 
about  the  joints,  and  in  the  nutritive  parts  of  bones.  It 
may  be  dissolved  by  soaking  in  cold  water,  and  then  boil- 
ing gently  for  several  hours.  The  solution  hardens  when 
cold.  Gelatine  hardens  in  a  dry  heat,  and  such  parts  of 
meat  as  contain  it  in  abundance  should  be  stewed,  rather 
than  roasted  or  broiled. 

Fat  of  meat  is  contained,  a  good  measure  of  it,  in  the 
adipose  tissue  of  almost  all  flesh  which  is  used  as  food. 
It  is  liquefied  by  heat,  and  resolved  into  various  acid  and 
acrid  bodies.  It  is  a  warmth-giver,  and  is  therefore  most 
appropriately  used  in  cold  seasons  and  climates. 

The  juice  of  the  flesh  consists  of  water,  a  small  propor- 
tion of  albumen,  and  a  mixture  of  other  compounds.  It 
is  not  the  blood,  for  it  still  exists  after  the  blood  has  been 
withdrawn.  It  may  be  obtained  by  chopping  lean  meat 
fine,  putting  it  in  a  closely  covered  jar  without  water,  and 
heating  it  gradually.  If  heated  above  160°,  the  albumi- 
nous matters  in  it  harden  and  turn  brown.  The  solid 
residue,  consisting  of  fibres,  tissue,  etc.,  is  white,  tasteless, 
and  inodorous.  This  separated  juice  is  strongly  acid, 
while  the  blood  is  always  alkaline.  It  contains  many  sub- 
stances which  are  very  valuable  as  food,  and  the  savory 
principle,  or  ozmazome,  which  gives  flavor  to  the  meat  and 
causes  it  to  differ  in  different  animals.  Meat  should 
always  be  cooked  in  such  a  manner  as  to  retain  the  largest 
proportion  of  this  juice.  The  juice  is  drawn  out  into  the 
brine  in  salting,  and  this  renders  salt  meat  less  nutritious. 
The  juice  when  the  water  has  been  separated  from  it  by 
evaporation,  is  termed  extract  of  meat. 

The  flesh  of  all  young  animals  is  more  tender,  but  not 
so  nutritious  as  that  of  maturer  animals.  Nearly  all  parts 
of  an  animal  may  be  used  as  food. 

Meat  is  in  season  all  the  year ;  but  certain  kinds  are 
better  at  stated  times.  Pork  is  good  only  in  autumn  and 
winter ;  veal,  in  the  spring  and  summer ;  venison,  in  the 
winter ;  fowls,  in  autumn  and  winter  ;  lamb,  in  the  summer 
and  fall ;  mutton  and  beef&t  any  time. 


212 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


FIG.  15.     Diagram  of  Ox. 


1.  Tip  of  Sirloin. 

2.  Middle  of  Sirloin. 

8.  First  Cut  of  Sirloin. 

4.  Back  of  Bump. 

5.  Middle  of  Rump. 

6.  Face  of  Rump. 

7.  AitchBone. 

8.  Lower  Part  of  Round. 
8J.  Top  of  Round. 

9.  Vein. 

10.  Poorer  Part  of  Round. 

11.  Poorer  Part  of  Vein. 


12.  Shin. 

13.  Boneless  Flank. 

14.  Thick  Flank  with  Bone. 

15.  First  Cut  of  Ribs. 

c.  Chuck  Ribs. 

d.  Neck. 

16.  Rattle  Rand. 

17-  Second  Cut  of  Rattle  Rand. 

18.  Brisket  (a.   the  navel  end ;   b    the 

butt  end). 

19.  Fore  Shin. 


FIG.  16.    Hind  Quarter  of  Beef. 


The  figures  in  the  hind  quarter  correspond  to  those  in 
the  same  section  of  the  whole  ox. 


Cost  of  Meat. 


213 


All  meat  should  be  removed  from  the  brown  paper  in 
which  it  is  wrapped  as  soon  as  it  comes  from  the  market, 
or  it  will  taste  of  the  paper  and  the  paper  will  absorb  the 
meat  juices.  Wipe  all  over  with  a  clean  wet  cloth. 
Chops  and  steaks  will  keep  sweet  much  longer  if  examined 
at  once,  and  any  parts  that  are  not  clean  and  sweet 
removed.  In  warm  weather  look  at  the  meat  often.  Put 
it  on  a  dish  near,  but  never  directly  upon,  the  ice. 


Cost  of  Meat  and  Game. 


Shin  of  beef,  3  to    6  cts.  per  lb. 
Middle  cut  of  shin,  7  to  10    "        " 
Lower  part  of 

round,  13  to  15   "        " 

Vein,  20  to  25   "        " 

Top  of  round,  20  to  25    "        " 

Aitch  bone,  8  to  10   "        " 

Face  of  rump,  17  to  22   " 

Middle,      "  25  to  28   " 

Back,        "  22  to  30   "        " 

Sirloin,  28  to  33   " 
Whole  tenderloin,  75  c.  to  $1.00    " 

Small  "  30  to  45  cts.      " 

Tip  of  sirloin,  22  to  30   "        " 

First  cut  of  rib,  17  to  25   " 
Second  cut  of  rib,  15  to  20    "        " 

Chuck  rib,  7  to  14  "        " 
Second  cut,  rib 

eorned,  12  to  15   "        " 

Brisket,  8  to  12   " 
Boneless  brisket,  15   " 

Flank,  6  to  11   " 

Liver,  10  to  12   "        " 

Tripe,  plain,  6  to  18   "        " 
Tripe,  honey-comb,        15   "        " 

Heart,  3  to  10   u        " 

Suet,  7  to  12   " 

Mutton,  leg,  12  to  20  "        " 

Mutton,  loin,  14  to  20   " 

Mutton,  saddle,  15  to  20   "        " 

Mutton,  chops,  15  to  25    "        " 
Mutton,  fore 

quarter,  8  to  12  "        " 

Mutton,  neck,  6  to    9   "        " 


Lamb,  leg, 

14  to  30  cts.  per  lb 

Lamb,  chops, 

15  to  40   " 

Lamb,  fore 

quarter, 

10  to  25   "        •' 

Veal,  knuckle, 

12  to  17    "        " 

Veal,  cutlet, 

22  to  28     ' 

Veal,  breast, 

9  to  14     »        " 

Sweetbreads, 

25  to  70     '    whole. 

Calf's  liver, 

25  to  70     '        " 

Calf's  heart, 

5  to    8     '      each. 

Calf's  head, 

25  to  60   "        " 

Fresh  pork, 

9  to  15   "   per  lb. 

Salt  pork, 

11  to  15   " 

Bacon,  bag, 

17  to  20    "        " 

Bacon,  slices, 

15  to  18    "        " 

Ham,  bag, 

17  to  20   "        " 

Ham,  sliced, 

20  to  25   "        " 

Lard, 

11  to  15   "        " 

Leaf  lard, 

10  to  15   " 

Sausage, 

12  to  20    " 

Turkeys, 

20  to  35   "        " 

Fowl, 

12  to  30   "        " 

Chickens, 

18  to  75   " 

Ducks,  wild, 

25  c.  to  $1.50  each, 

Ducks,  tame, 

20  to  37  cts.  per  lb, 

Ducks,  Canvas- 

back, 

$1.50  to  $2.00  each. 

Grouse, 

75  c.  to  $1.25      " 

Partridge, 

75  c.  to  $1.25      " 

Pigeon,  wild, 

75  c.  to  $2.00  per  d. 

Pigeon,  tame, 

12^  to  25  cts.  each. 

Squab, 

$2.50  to  $4.50  per  d 

Quail, 

$1.50  to  $3.00     " 

214  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


BEEF. 

GOOD  beef  should  be  bright  red,  well  marbled  with  yel- 
lowish-white fat,  and  with  a  thick  outside  layer  of  fat. 
The  flesh  must  be  firm,  and  when  pressed  with  the  finger 
no  mark  should  be  left.  The  suet  should  be  dry,  and 
crumble  easily. 

A  side  of  beef  is  divided  into  the  hind  quarter  and 
fore  quarterc  The  hind  quarter  consists  of  the  round, 
the  rump,  and  the  loin.  The  fore  quarter  is  divided 
into  the  back  half  and  the  rattle  rand.  In  cutting  up  a 
hind  quarter,  the  flank  is  first  removed.  The  cut  should 
slant  two  or  three  inches  toward  the  tip.  The  upper  part 

of  the  flank  has 
the  ends  of  the 
short  ribs,  and  is 
used  for  corning. 
The  lower  end  of 
the  flank  has  no 
bones.  This  may 
be  stuffed,  rolled, 
and  boiled,  either 
fresh  or  corned. 
The  round  is  sep- 


Fio.17.    AitchBone. 

rump  in  the  line 

from  7  to  9.  The  aitch  bone  (7)  lies  between  the  back 
and  middle  cut  of  the  rump  and  the  top  of  the  round.  It 
is  usually  sold  whole  ;  it  makes  a  good  roast  for  a  small 
family,  considering  the  price  (10  cents),  and  is  the  best 
piece  for  a  beef  stew. 

The  first  cuts  of  the  vein  (9)  which  joins  the  face  of 
the  rump  make  good  steak.      The  top  of  the  round  is 


Beef.  215 

the  inside  of  the  thickest  part  of  the  leg  (8£,  behind  8 
in  the  diagram).  As  seen  on  the  counter,  it  is  above  the 
bone.  It  consists  of  one  large  section  or  muscle  with  a 
thick  edge  of  fat.  The  best  round  steaks  lie  between  this 
point  and  the  ridge  of  fat.  The  third  slice  is  considered 
the  best.  After  cutting  beyond  this  ridge  comes  the 
beginning  of  another  muscle,  which  is  very  tough.  One 
may  easity  detect,  by  the  separation  of  this  narrow  strip  of 
meat  along  the  top  of  the  slice,  whether  the  meat  came 
from  the  best  part  of  the  top  of  the  round.  It  may  be  the 


PIG.  18.     Round,  showing  the  beginning  of  the  tough  muscle  on  the  top. 

best  the  marketman  has  ;  but  it  is  not  the  best  cut,  though 
often  palmed  off  in  place  of  the  third  slice.  The  under 
part  of  the  round  has  two  sections  or  muscles,  the  one 
nearest  the  bone  being  larger  than  the  outside  section. 
The  skin  is  thin,  with  very  little  fat.  Steaks  from  this  cut 
are  sometimes  sold  as  good  round  steak  to  the  ignorant 
buyer ;  but  keep  in  mind  that  in  the  top  cut  there  is  one 
large  muscle  with  thick  fat,  instead  of  two  smaller  muscles 
and  thin  fat,  and  you  will  not  be  deceived.  This  under 
cu+  of  the  round  is  excellent  for  braising.  It  is  well  shaped, 
requires  no  trimming,  and  is  the  cheapest  cut,  as  every 
scrap  of  it  may  be  eaten.  Below  this,  as  we  follow  down 
the  leg,  are  nice  pieces  for  stews,  pie  meat,  etc. 

The  marrow  bone,  running  through  the  round  to  the 
shin,  contains  the  best  marrow.     The  next  best  is  in  the 


216 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


foreshin.  The  hind  shin  differs  from  the  fore  shin  in  hav- 
ing a  thick  tendon,  which  separates  entirely  from  the  end 
of  the  leg,  and  unites  again  at  the  joint,  forming  a  loop  by 
which  the  hind  quarter  is  hung  on  the  meat  hook.  The 

middle  cut  of  the 
shin  may  be  used 
for  stews  and  brais- 
ing, and  the  lower 
part  for  soups. 

The  rump  is  usu- 
ally separated  from 
the  loin,  and  divid- 
ed into  the  back, 
middle,  and  face 
of  the  rump.  The 

back  of  the  rump,  one  of  the  best  pieces  for  roasting,  has 
part  of  the  backbone  and  sometimes  the  rump  bone,  as 
some  marketmen  will  not  cut  it  out  before  weighing. 
The  small  end  nearest  the  loin  has  the  most  tender  meat. 


PIG.  19.    Back  of  Rump. 


PIG.  20.     First  Cut  of  Sirloin,  showing  the  bulging  muscle 
on  upper  edge. 


The  middle  cut  has  no  bone,  but  it  is  not 
tender.     It  is  better  for  braising  than  for  roasting.     Some- 
times the  rump  is  not  divided,  and  is  cut  into  steaks.     If 
cut  parallel  with  the  backbone,  ii  will  be  tough.     If  cut  at 
right  angles,  and  from  the  end  nearest  the  loin,  it  makes  the 


Sirloin. 


217 


FIG.  21.    Sirloin  Boast,  second  Cut 


best  steaks,  and  is  well  worth  the  extra  price  charged  for 
cutting  in  this  manner.     The  face  of  the  rump  has  a  thick 
piece  of  fat  in  the  middle,  often  purposely  covered  by  a 
thin  cutting  from  the  ten- 
derloin.    This  is  a  cheap 
piece  for  roasting,  but  not 
of  the  best  quality. 

The  sirloin  is  separated 
from  the  rump  in  a  slant- 
ing direction.  Never  buy 
the  first  slice,  as  it  always 
has  a  small  narrow  bone 
near  the  top  in  addition  to 
the  rib,  and  a  larger  por- 
tion of  tough  flank  and 
gristle  than  the  middle  or 
second  cuts.  As  it  lies  on 
the  counter  you  ma3T  easily 

tell  if  it  be  the  first  slice  by  the  small  bone ;  and  if  you 
press  on  the  top  of  the  meat  near  the  middle,  a  small  sec- 
tion of  meat  bulges  out.  This  is  the  end  of  the  muscle 
forming  the  face  of  the  rump  and  vein,  and  is  very  tough. 
The  second  cut  of  sirloin  has  the  most  tenderloin,  and 
onl}'  a  straight  rib  at  right  angles  with  the  backbone. 
An}'  part  after  the  first  slice  is  taken  off,  until  you  come 
to  the  tip,  is  called  the  second  cut,  and  is  sold  for  roasts 
or  steak.  The  tip  is  ver}r  juicy.  The  whole  hind-quarter 
is  hung  up  by  the  shin,  the  juices  all  flow  down,  and  the 
tip  holds  a  large  portion.  The  muscles  which  are  the  least 
used  have  the  most  tender  fibre  and  the  least  juice.  These 
muscles,  lying  along  the  loin  or  middle  of  the  backbone, 
above  the  ribs,  and  forming  the  top  of  the  sirloin,  are  more 
tender,  but  less  juicy,  than  those  of  the  rump  and  round. 
The  tenderloin,  lying  along  the  middle  of  the  back  under 
the  sirloin,  from  below  the  tip  to  the  face  of  the  rump,  is 
protected  by  its  bed  of  suet  below,  and  its  roof  of  bones 
above.  It  is  a  muscle  very  little  used,  is  very  tender, 
but  dry,  and  entirely  without  flavor.  This  is  removed 


2i8  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

whole,  and  sold  as  the  long  fillet ;  or  divided,  and  the 
smaller  part,  lying  under  the  rump,  sold  as  the  short 
fillet 

In  cold  weather  it  is  economy  to  buy  a  large  sirloin. 
Remove  the  fillet,  or  tenderloin,  and  cook  that  first,  as  it 


PIG.  22.    Tip  of  Sirloin. 

spoils  easily;  corn  the  flank,  or  use  it  for  a  stew;  and 
roast  the  upper  part.  If  very  large,  roast  it  slightly  the 
first  time,  and  it  may  be  roasted  again  for  a  second  dinner. 

The  Fore  Quarter. 

The  back  half  of  the  fore  quarter  has  the  backbone  on 
the  upper  edge.  The  best  roasting  piece  is  the  first  cut  of 
the  rib,  which  joins  the  tip  of  the  sirloin,  and  is  sometimes 
sold  for  the  tip.  The  tip  has  only  one  thick  muscle  above 
the  rib,  and  the  bones  are  usually  slanting.  One  side  of 
the  first  cut  of  the  rib  looks  just  like  the  tip ;  the  other 
side  has  the  beginning  of  another  tough  muscle  next  to  the 
skin,  and  the  bones  are  straight.  There  are  ten  ribs  in 
the  fore  quarter ;  three  are  left  in  the  sirloin.  This  first 
cut  may  be  one,  two,  three,  or  four  ribs ;  but  two  are 
enough  to  roast  for  a  small  family.  The  shoulder  blade 
begins  in  the  fifth  rib,  and  above  this  lie  what  are  called 
the  chuck  ribs.  The  meat  above  the  blade  is  tough,  and 


Rib  Beef. 


219 


only  suitable  for  stews.     The  part  underneath  is  cut  into 
small  steaks,  and  is  often  offered  for  sale  as  sirloin  steaks. 
The  shoulder  of  mutton,  just  above  the  fore  shin,  is  good 
for  braising  and  pie 
meat. 

The  rattle  rand  is 
divided  into  three 
long  narrow  strips, 
thick  and  lean  at 
the  upper  end,  and 
thin  and  fat  at  the 
lower  end,  all  of 
which  are  usually 
corned.  The  upper 
part,  called  the  rat- 
tle, is  divided  into 
three  cuts.  The 

thick  upper  end  is  preferred  by  those  who  like  lean  corned 
beef.  The  second  cut  has  straight  ribs  running  through  it, 
and  three  distinct  laj'ers  of  meat  with  fat,  and  is  considered 
the  choicest  piece  by  those  who  like  "  a  streak  of  fat  and 


FIG.  23.     First  Cut  of  Rib. 


Fio.  24.     Chuck  Rib,  with  six  ribs  removed. 

a  streak  of  lean."  The  middle  strip  has  a  thick  layer  of 
fat,  and  only  one  layer  of  lean,  and  the  bones  are  slanting. 
This  is  not  a  desirable  piece.  The  lower  strip  ia  the 
brisket,  the  upper  end  of  which  is  thick ;  the  lower  end, 


22O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

toward  the  middle  of  the  creature,  is  called  the  navel  end. 
Brisket  pieces  alwa}rs  have  what  is  called  a  selvedge  on 
the  lower  side,  and  the  breast  bones  running  at  right  angles 
with  the  rib.  After  a  little  experience  in  marketing  one 
may  easily  distinguish  the  various  cuts  of  beef.  It  is  well 
to  know  what  you  want,  and  to  know  whether  you  get 
what  you  have  ordered. 

Roast  Sirloin  of  Beef. 

Six  or  eight  pounds  from  the  tip  or  second  cut  of  the  sirloin, 
Wipe,  trim,  and  tie  or  skewer  into  shape.  If  there  be  a 
large  piece  of  the  flank,  cut  it  off,  and  use  it  for  soups  or 
stews.  If  you  prefer  to  use  it  for  this  purpose  after  roast- 
ing, draw  it  round  underneath  and  fasten  it  with  a  skewer. 
Lay  the  meat  on  a  rack  in  a  pan,  and  dredge  all  over  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Put  it  in  a  very  hot  oven  with  two 
or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  drippings  or  pieces  of  the  beef  fat 
placed  in  the  pan.  Place  a  rack  under  the  pan,  or  turn  the 
heat  off  from  the  bottom  of  the  oven.  Put  the  skin  side 
down  at  first,  that  the  heat  may  harden  the  juices  in  the 
lean  part.  When  the  flour  is  brown  on  the  pan  and  the 
meat  is  seared,  baste  with  the  fat  and  reduce  the  heat. 
Baste  often,  and  dredge  twice  with  salt  and  flour.  When 
seared  all  over,  turn  and  bring  the  skin  side  up  for  the 
final  basting  and  browning.  Bake  fifty  or  sixty  minutes, 
if  liked  very  rare  ;  an  hour  and  a  quarter  to  an  hour  and 
a  half,  if  liked  well  done.  If  there  be  any  danger  of 
burning  the  fat  in  the  pan,  add  a  little  hot  water  after 
the  flour  is  browned.  Meat  may  be  roasted  and  carved 
better  if  placed  in  the  pan  and  on  the  platter  with  the 
skin  up  instead  of  the  flesh  side. 

Carve  a  sirloin  roast  by  cutting  several  thin  slices  parallel 
with  the  ribs.  Then  cut  down  near  the  backbone  and  sep- 
arate the  slices.  Cut  out  the  tenderloin  from  under  the 
bone,  and  slice  it  in  the  same  manner.  Many  turn  the 
sirloin  over  and  remove  the  tenderloin  first.  Serve  a  little 
of  the  crisp  fat  on  the  flank  to  those  who  wish  it. 


Roast  Beef.  221 


Rib  Roast.  —  Remove  the  backbone  and  ribs.  Skewer  or 
tie  into  a  round  shape,  and  prepare  as  for  sirloin.  Allow 
a  longer  time  for  roasting,  as  the  meat  is  in  a  more  com- 
pact form  without  the  bones.  Place  it  skin  side  up  on  the 
platter,  and  carve  thin  slices  from  the  flesh  side. 

The  Back  of  the  Rump.  —  This  is  the  best  and  .cheapest 
piece  for  roasting,  as  the  meat  is  all  good  and  there  is  not 
as  much  bone  as  in  other  pieces.  It  is  usually  too  large 
for  a  small  family  ;  but  in  cold  weather  it  may  be  used  to 
advantage,  by  cutting  steaks  from  the  thickest  end,  using 
the  small  end  for  a  roast  and  the  bones  for  soup. 

In  carving  the  rump,  when  the  bone  has  not  been  taken 
out,  a  deep  cut  should  be  made  at  the  base,  to  loosen  the 
meat ;  then  the  slices  may  be  cut  lengthwise  or  crosswise. 
When  the  family  is  large  and  all  the  meat  is  to  be  used, 
it  is  well  to  cut  it  lengthwise.  Should  only  a  small  quan- 
tity be  needed,  cut  only  from  the  small  end,  and  save  the 
tougher  parts  for  a  stew.  Many  think  it  more  economical 
to  serve  the  poorer  parts  the  first  day,  as  they  are  then 
more  palatable,  reserving  the  tender  meat  to  be  served 
cold. 

Roast  from  the  Round.  —  A  slice  three  inches  thick,  from 
the  best  part  of  the  top  of  the  round,  may  be  dredged  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  roasted.  Carve  in  thin  slices, 
the  same  as  steak.  It  is  rather  tough,  but  juicy  and  well 
flavored. 

Yorkshire  Pudding.  —  Beat  three  eggs  very  light.  Add 
one  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  pint  of  milk.  Pour  half 
a  cup  of  this  mixture  on  two  thirds  of  a  cup  of  flour,  and 
stir  to  a  smooth  paste.  Add  the  remainder  of  the  mixture 
and  beat  well.  Bake  in  hot  gem  pans  forty-five  minutes. 
Baste  with  the  drippings  from  the  beef.  This  is  a  more 
convenient  way  than  to  bake  in  the  pan  under  the  beef, 
and  gives  more  crust.  Serve  as  a  garnish  for  roast  beef. 

Gravy  for  Roast  Beef.  —  When  the  meat  is  done,  put  it 
on  a  plate,  and  keep  it  hot  while  making  the  gravy.  Hold 
the  corner  of  the  dripping-pan  over  a  bowl ;  let  the  liquid 
in  the  pan  settle ;  then  pour  off  all  the  fat  and  save  it 


222  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

When  no  water  is  used  in  baking  and  the  oven  is  very  hot, 
this  liquid  will  be  the  fat  from  the  meat.  The  brown  flour 
will  settle,  and  some  will  adhere  to  the  pan.  Pour  one  pint 
of  hot  water  or  stock  into  the  pan,  and  scrape  off  all  the  sedi- 
•  ment.  Pour  this  water  into  a  saucepan  from  which  it  may 
be  poured  easily,  and  place  it  on  the  stove  to  heat.  Put 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  hot  fat  into  a  small  fiying-pan, 
and  when  browned  stir  in  two  heapiny  tablespoonfuls  of  dry 
flour,  or  enough  to  absorb  all  the  fat.  Stir  until  the  flour 
is  brown  and  well  mixed ;  then  add  the  hot  liquid  grad- 
ually, and  stir  as  it  thickens.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  simmer  five  minutes.  Strain  if  not  perfectly  smooth. 
Gravy  can  be  made  in  the  dripping-pan  ;  but  such  pans  are 
usually  large,  inconvenient  to  handle,  and  take  up  more 
space  than  can  be  spared  on  the  top  of  the  stove,  and  are 
much  harder  to  wash  when  the  gravy  has  been  made  in 
them.  To  make  it  in  the  pan,  pour  off  nearty  all  the  fat. 
Put  the  pan  on  the  stove  and  add  dry  flour  until  the  fat  is 
all  absorbed.  Then  add  hot  water  or  hot  stock,  and  stir  as  it 
thickens.  Cook  five  to  eight  minutes,  and  strain.  It  is  well 
for  those  who  like  gravies  to  make  a  large  quantity,  as  it 
is  useful  in  warming  over  the  remnants  of  the  roast.  But 
there  is  no  sauce  or  made  gravy  equal  to  the  natural 
juices  contained  in  the  meat,  which  should  flow  freely 
into  the  platter  when  the  meat  is  carved. 


FIG.  25.    Fillet  of  Beef. 


Fillet  of , Beef . — Wipe,  and  remove  the  fat,  veins,  and 
tough  tendinous  portion  in  the  middle.  Trim  into  shape. 
Lard  the  upper  side  (see  page  25).  Dredge  with  salt,  pep- 
per, and  flour.  Put  several  pieces  of  pork  in  the  pan  under 


Broiled  Steak.  223 


the  meat.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  or  thirty  minutes. 
If  you  prefer,  omit  the  pork  and  put  the  choice  pieces  of 
beef  fat  over  the  meat.  Serve  with  mushroom  sauce.  Or 
brush  the  fillet  with  beaten  egg,  and  sprinkle  seasoned  and 
buttered  crumbs  all  over  it,  and  bake  thirty  minutes.  Or 
stuff'  the  incisions  left  by  the  removal  of  the  veins  and 
tendons  with  any  stuffing  or  force-meat.  Dredge  with  sail 
and  flour,  and  bake. 

Broiled  Steak. 

Wipe,  trim  off  the  superfluous  fat,  and  remove  the  bone. 
Save  the  flank  end  for  broiled  meat  cakes.  Grease  the 
gridiron  with  some  of  the  fat.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire, 
turning  every  ten  seconds.  Cook  three  or  four  minutes,  if 
liked  rare  ;  longer,  if  well  done.  Serve  on  a  hot  platter. 
Season  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  serve  with  Maitr? 
cT  Hotel  butter.  Steaks  should  be  cut  at  least  an  inch 
thick.  Many  prefer  them  much  thicker.  Sirloin,  cross 
cut  of  the  rump,  and  top  of  the  round  are  all  good  steaks. 
The  round  is  juicy,  but  has  a  net  work  of  tough  white  fibre, 
which  makes  it  difficult  to  masticate.  If  the  steak  be  very 
tough,  pound  it  with  a  meat  hammer  (a  hammer  with  sharp 
teeth  for  cutting)  or  cut  across  it  several  times  with  a 
sharp  knife  on  each  side.  The  intense  heat  will  sear  the 
surface  quickly,  and  prevent  the  escape  of  the  juices. 

Many  prefer  not  to  remove  the  bone  in  a  sirloin  steak  ; 
but  it  burns  quickly,  and  is  better  for  the  soup  kettle  if 
not  cooked,  and  the  steak  is  more  easily  carved  when  the 
bone  is  removed.  Carve  in  narrow  slices,  giving  each 
person  a  bit  of  tenderloin,  fat,  and  upper  part. 

Broikd  Fillet  of  Beef.  —  Cut  slices  from  the  tenderloin. 
Wipe  the  meat ;  grease  the  gridiron ;  broil  over  a  clear 
fire,  turning  every  ten  counts,  for  three  or  five  minutes. 
Spread  with  Maitre  d' Hotel  butter. 

Broiled  Meat  Cakes.  —  Chop  lean,  raw  beef  quite  fine. 
Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  chopped  onion,  or  onion 
juice.  Make  it  into  small  flat  cakes,  and  broil  on  a  well- 
greased  gridiron  or  on  a  hot  frying-pan.  Serve  very  hot 


224  TIie  Boston  Cook  Book. 

with  butter  or  Maitre  d?  Hotel  sauce.  The  flank  end  of  the 
sirloin  is  better  when  cooked  in  this  manner  than  when 
broiled  with  the  other  part  of  the  steak. 

Hamburgh  Steak.  — Pound  a  slice  of  round  steak  enough 
to  break  the  fibre.  Fry  two  or  three  onions,  minced  fine, 
in  butter  until  slightly  browned.  Spread  the  onions  over 
the  meat,  fold  the  ends  of  the  meat  together,  and  pound 
again,  to  keep  the  onions  in  the  middle.  Broil  two  or 
three  minutes.  Spread  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Braised  Beef. 

Four  to  six  pounds  of  beef  from  the  lower  part  of  the 
round  or  face  of  the  rump.  Trim,  and  rub  well  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  flour.  Cut  two  small  onions  into  dice,  and  fry 
them  until  light  brown  in  salt  pork  fat  or  drippings.  Skim 
them  out  into  a  braising-pan  or  large  granite  pan ;  then 
brown  the  meat  all  over,  adding  more  fat  if  needed.  Put 
the  meat  into  the  pan  on  skewers,  to  keep  it  from  stick- 
ing, with  the  onions  around,  not  under,  the  meat.  Add 
one  quart  of  boiling  water  and  one  tablespoonful  of  mixed 
herbs,  which  should  be  tied  in  a  small  piece  of  strainer 
cloth.  Cover  closely,  putting  a  brick  on  the  cover  to  keep 
it  down,  and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  four  hours,  basting 
every  twenty  minutes.  Turn  over  after  two  hours ;  add 
more  water  as  it  evaporates,  so  as  to  have  one  pint  left  for 
gravy.  When  tender,  take  up  the  meat,  remove  the  fat 
and  bag  of  herbs  from  the  gravy  ;  add  more  salt  and  pep- 
per, and  if  desired  add  lemon  juice,  tomato,  or  mushrooms; 
thicken  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  wet  in  a  little  cold 
water.  Cook  ten  minutes,  and  pour  the  gravy  over  the 
meat.  Garnish  with  potato  balls,  boiled  onions,  or  with  veg- 
etables a  la  Jardiniere.  Horseradish  sauce  ma}7  be  served 
with  the  meat.  This  is  a  very  nutritious,  palatable,  and 
convenient  way  of  cooking  the  cheaper  parts  of  beef,  a 
cusiii^n  of  veal,  tongues,  fowls,  liver,  and  some  other  kinds 
of  meat.  The  meat  is  equally  good  cold  or  hot ;  there  is 
no  waste  if  care  be  taken  not  to  let  it  become  hard  and  dry 


Beef  Stew.  225 


by  being  exposed  to  the  air.  This  method  of  cooking 
commends  itself  especially  to  those  who  "  are  tired  of 
roasted,  boiled,  or  fried  meat." 

Beef  a  la  Mode. 

Four  to  six  pounds  from  the  under  part  of  the  round  of 
beef,  cut  thick.  Wipe,  and  trim  off  the  rough  edges.  Put 
it  in  a  deep  earthen  dish,  and  pour  over  it  spiced  vine- 
gar, made  by  boiling  for  five  minutes  one  cup  of  vinegar, 
one  onion,  chopped  fine,  three  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  each  of  mustard,  pepper,  cloves,  and  allspice. 
Let  the  meat  stand  several  hours,  turning  it  often.  Then 
daub  it  with  ten  or  twelve  strips  of  salt  pork,  cut  one  third  of 
an  inch  wide,  and  as  long  as  the  meat  is  thick,  inserting 
them  with  a  larding-needle  or  carving-steel.  Or  make 
large  incisions  and  stuif  with  bread  crumbs,  highly  seasoned 
with  salt,  pepper,  onions,  thyme,  marjoram,  etc.,  moistened 
with  hot  water,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one  well-beaten 
egg.  Tie  it  into  good  shape  with  a  narrow  strip  of  cotton 
cloth,  to  keep  in  the  stuffing.  Dredge  with  flour.  Cut 
two  onions,  half  a  carrot,  and  half  a  turnip  fine,  and  fry 
them  in  fat  or  drippings  until  brown.  Put  them  in  the 
stewpan.  Then  brown  the  meat  all  over  in  the  fat ;  put 
it  on  a  trivet  in  the  pan,  and  half  cover  with  boiling  water. 
Add  one  tablespoonful  of  mixed  herbs,  tied  in  a  small 
strainer  cloth.  Cover  closely,  and  simmer  four  hours,  or 
until  tender.  Take  it  up  carefully,  remove  the  strings,  and 
put  it  on  a  large  platter.  Remove  the  fat  from  the  gravy, 
add  more  seasoning,  and  thicken  with  flour  wet  in  a  little 
cold  water ;  boil -eight  minutes,  and  strain  it  over  the  meat. 
Garnish  with  potato  balls  and  small  onions. 

Beef  Stew  with  Dumplings. 

The  aitch  bone  is  the  nicest  piece  for  a  beef  stew.  There 
is  some  very  juic}*  meat  on  the  upper  side  in  the  large 
muscle  which  lies  next  to  the  top  of  the  round,  'and  it  will 
serve  a  small  family  for  a  roast,  and  then  may  be  made 

15 


226  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

into  a  stew.  The  flavor  obtained  by  roasting  adds  much 
to  the  stew ;  for  this  reason,  when  the  meat  has  not  been 
cooked,  brown  it  in  a  little  fat  before  stewing.  The  bones 
should  never  be  chopped  and  splintered,  but  sawed  care- 
fully, and  all  the  fine,  crumbly  pieces  removed  before 
cooking.  Other  good  pieces  for  stews  are  two  or  three 
pounds  from  the  middle  cut  of  the  shin,  or  the  flank  end  of 
a  large  sirloin  roast,  or  the  upper  part  of  the  chuck  rib. 
Any  part  that  has  bone  and  fat,  as  well  as  lean,  either 
cooked  or  uncooked,  makes  the  best-flavored  stew.  The 
fat  and  bones  may  be  removed  before  serving,  and  such 
pieces  are  much  better  than  dry,  lean  meat.  Remove  the 
meat  from  the  bones,  and  put  them  with  part  of  the  fat 
into  the  stewpan.  Cut  the  meat  into  small  pieces,  and  if  not 
previously  cooked,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  &r\&  flour,  and 
brown  all  over  in  salt  pork  fat  or  drippings.  Put  it  into 
the  stewpan.  Cut  two  onions,  one  small  white  turnip,  and 
half  a  small  carrot  (if  you  like  the  flavor)  into  half-inch 
dice.  Cook  them  slightly  in  the  dripping,  and  add  them 
to  the  stew.  Add  boiling  water  enough  to  cover,  and  sim- 
mer two  or  three  hours,  or  till  the  meat  is  tender.  Remove 
the  bones,  and  skim  off  the  fat.  While  the  meat  is  cook- 
ing pare  six  or  eight  small  potatoes,  and  soak  them  in  cold 
water.  When  the  meat  is  tender,  pour  boiling  water  over 
them,  and  boil  five  minutes  to  take  out  the  acrid  taste. 
Drain,  and  add  them  to  the  stew.  Add  salt  and  pepper  to 
taste.  When  dumplings  are  to  be  served  with  the  stew, 
add  them  when  the  potatoes  are  nearly  done.  The  liquor 
should  come  up  just  even  with  the  potatoes,  that  the  dump- 
plings  may  rest  on  them.  Cover  closely  to  keep  in  the 
steam,  and  cook  ten  minutes  without  lifting  the  cover. 
Take  out  the  dumplings,  put  the  meat  and  potatoes  in 
the  centre  of  a  hot  platter,  and  the  dumplings  round  the 
edge. 

Remove  the  fat,  and  add  more  salt  and  pepper,  if  needed, 
to  the  broth ;  and  if  not  thick  enough,  add  a  little  flout 
wet  smooth  in  cold  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  one 
cup  of  strained  tomato  and  one  teaspoon  ful  of  chopped  parsley 


Pot  Roast.  227 


Pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat,  putting  part  of  it  in  a 
sauce  tureen  if  there  be  more  than  the  platter  will  hold. 

Dumplings.  —  One  pint  of  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar,  and  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  (or  three  level  teaspoonfuls  of  baking- 
powder).  Mix  with  one  scant  cup  of  sweet  milk  into  a 
dough  soft  enough  to  handle  easily.  Pat  it  out  half  an 
inch  thick.  Cut  in  small  rounds,  or  mix  softer  and  drop 
by  the  spoonful  into  the  boiling  stew.  Cook  ten  minutes. 

Rolled  Flank  of  Beef. 

Four  or  Jive  pounds  of  the  flank.  Wipe,  and  remove  the 
skin,  membrane,  and  extra  fat.  Pound  and  trim  until  of 
uniform  thickness.  Make  a  stuffing  with  one  cup  of  cracker 
crumbs,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  fine  chopped  salt  pork,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  each  of  thyme,  marjoram, 
and  sage,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  a  few  drops  of  onion 
juice,  or  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  onion,  and  one  egg. 
Moisten  with  hot  water  until  soft  enough  to  spread  over  the 
meat.  Roll  over,  and  tie  or  sew  securely.  Wrap  a  cloth 
around  it.  Put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  simmer  six 
hours  or  until  tender.  Remove  the  cloth,  press  it,  and 
when  cold  remove  the  strings.  Serve  cold,  cut  in  thin 
slices.  Corned  flank  ma}'  be  prepared  in  the  same  way. 
The  stuffing  may  be  omitted,  and  the  meat  covered  with 
vinegar  spiced  and  flavored  with  onion,  and  after  remain- 
ing in  the  pickle  several  hours,  rolled,  and  boiled  as  above. 

Smothered  Beef,  or  Pot  Roast. 

Four  to  six  pounds  from  the  middle  or  face  of  the  rump, 
the  vein,  or  the  round.  Wipe  with  a  clean  wet  cloth. 
Sear  all  over  by  placing  in  a  hot  ftying-pan  and  turning 
till  all  the  surface  is  browned.  Put  in  a  kettle  with  one 
cup  of  water,  and  place  it  where  it  will  keep  just  below  the 
boiling-point.  Do  not  let  the  water  boil  entirely  away, 
but  add  only  enough  to  keep  the  meat  from  burning 


228  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Have  the  cover  fitting  closely  to  keep  in  the  steam.  Cook 
until  very  tender,  but  do  not  let  it  break.  Serve  hot  or 
cold.  The  meat  when  cold  is  delicious,  cut  in  quarter- 
inch  slices,  and  sauted  in  hot  butter. 

Spiced  Beef. 

Four  to  Expounds  from  the  middle  cut  of  the  shin.  Wash 
the  meat  on  the  outside,  and  cut  off  any  part  of  the  skin 
which  is  not  sweet  and  clean.  Pick  off  all  the  fine  frag- 
ments of  bone.  Cut  the  meat  into  several  pieces  ;  cover 
with  boiling  water.  Skim  carefully  as  it  boils,  and  then 
simmer  until  the  meat  falls  to  pieces,  and  the  liquor  is 
reduced  to  half  a  pint.  Remove  the  meat ;  season  the 
liquor  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  sage,  and  thyme.  Add  it 
to  the  meat,  and  mix  with  a  fork  till  the  meat  is  all 
broken.  Pack  in  a  brickloaf  pan.  When  cold,  cut  in 
thin  slices. 

Corned  Beef. 

Select  a  piece  of  beef  which  has  a  fair  proportion  of  fat,  — - 
the  brisket  or  second  cut  of  rattle  rand.  If  very  salt,  soak 
in  cold  water  half  an  hour.  Put  on  to  boil  in  fresh  cold 
water,  enough  to  cover  it.  If  not  very  salt,  wash  it  and 
use  boiling  water,  but  never  let  it  boil  fast.  Skim  care- 
fully when  it  begins  to  boil,  and  cook  slowly,  simmering 
(not  boiling)  until  so  tender  that  you  can  pick  it  to 
pieces  with  a  fork.  Let  the  water  boil  away  toward  the 
last,  and  let  the  beef  stand  in  the  water  until  partially 
cooled.  Lift  it  out  of  the  water  with  a  skimmer,  and 
pack  it  in  a  brickloaf  pan;  let  the  long  fibres  run  the 
length  of  the  pan ;  mix  in  the  fat  so  that  it  will  be  well 
marbled.  Put  a  thin  board,  a  trifle  smaller  than  the  in- 
side of  the  pan,  over  the  meat,  and  press  by  putting  a 
heavy  weight  on  the  board.  When  cold,  cut  in  thin  slices. 
This  is  the  most  appetizing  way  of  serving  the  fat  of  the 
meat,  which  in  corned  beef  is  a  desirable  part  and  is  often 
untouched  if  offered  in  a  mass  on  the  edge  of  the  lean. 


ti  oiled  D'mneri  229 


An  Old-fashioned  Boiled  Dinner.     (Mrs.  Poor.) 

Notwithstanding  that  this  dish  has  fallen  into  ill-repute 
with  many  people,  it  may  be  prepared  so  as  to  be  both  pal- 
atable and  nutritious  for  those  who  exercise  freely.  It  is 
more  suitable  for  cold  seasons.  The  most  healthful  and 
economical  way,  though  perhaps  not  the  old-fashioned  way, 
is  to  boil  the  beef  the  day  before. 

Four  pounds  of  corned  beef,  two  or  three  beets,  a  smatt  cab- 
bage, two  small  carrots,  one  small  white  French  turnip,  six  or 
tight  potatoes  of  uniform  size,  and  one  small  crooked-neck 
tquash. 

Wash  and  soak  the  corned  beef  in  cold  water,  and  put  it 
an  to  boil  in  fresh  cold  water ;  skim,  and  simmer  until  ten- 
der, but  not  long  enough  for  it  to  fall  to  pieces.  Let  it 
cool  in  the  liquor  in  which  it  was  boiled.  Put  it  into  a 
flat  shallow  dish,  cover  it  with  a  board,  and  press  it. 
Remove  all  the  fat  from  the  meat  liquor,  and  save  it  to 
clarify  for  shortening.  Save  the  meat  liquor,  but  do  not 
let  it  stand  in  an  iron  kettle  or  tin  pan.  Boil  the  beets 
the  day  before,  also',  and  cover  them  with  vinegar.  The 
next  day  prepare  the  vegetables:  Wash  them  all,  scrape 
the  carrots,  and  cut  the  cabbage  into  quarters ;  pare  the 
turnip  and  squash,  and  cut  into  three-quarter-inch  slices, 
and  pare  the  potatoes.  Put  the  meat  liquor  on  to  boil 
about  two  hours  before  dinner  time  ;  when  boiling,  put  in 
the  carrots,  afterward  the  cabbage  and  turnip,  and  half  an 
hour  before  dinner  add  the  squash  and  potatoes.  When 
tender,  take  the  vegetables  up  carefully ;  drain  the  water 
from  the  cabbage  by  pressing  it  in  a  colander.  Slice  the 
carrots.  Put  the  cold  meat  in  the  centre  of  a  large  dish, 
and  serve  the  carrots,  turnips,  and  potatoes  round  the  edge, 
with  the  squash,  cabbage,  and  pickled  beets  in  separate 
dishes  ;  or  serve  each  vegetable  in  a  dish  by  itself.  This 
may  all  be  done  the  same  day  if  the  meat  be  put  on  to 
boil  very  early,  removed  as  soon  as  tender,  the  fat  taken 
off,  and  the  vegetables  added  to  the  boiling  meat  liquor, 
beginning  with  those  which  require  the  longest  time  to 


230  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

cook.  This  will  depend  very  much  upon  their  freshness. 
But  whichever  way  the  dish  is  prepared,  boil  the  beets 
alone,  remove  the  meat  and  fat  before  adding  the  vege- 
tables, and  serve  each  as  whole  and  daintily  as  possible. 
The  next  morning  use  what  remains  of  the  vegetables  as  a 
vegetable  hash. 

Vegetable  Hash.  — Equal  parts  of  cabbage,  beets,  and  tur* 
nips,  and  as  much  potato  as  there  is  of  all  the  other  vege- 
tables. Chop  all  very  fine  ;  add  a  little  salt  and  pepper  / 
put  a  spoonful  of  drippings  in  the  fiying-pan,  and  when 
hot  add  the  hash,  and  cook  slowly  until  warmed  through. 

Tongue  in  Jelly. 

Wash  a  fresh  tongue,  and  skewer  the  tip  to  the  root. 
Cook  until  tender  in  boiling  salted  water  ;  remove  the  skin ; 
trim  and  tie  it  in  good  shape.  Season  two  quarts  of  soup 
stock  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  herbs,  and  wine  or  lemon. 
Clear  it  with  eggs,  and  stiffen  with  the  proportion  of  Cox's 
gelatine,  as  given  for  Aspic  Jelly.  Pour  a  little  jelly  into 
a  mould ;  when  cool,  lay  in  the  cold  tongue,  and  add  the 
remainder  of  the  jelly  slowly. 

Smoked  Tongue.  —  Smoked  tongues  are  much  more  pala- 
table, though  not  so  economical  as  when  fresh.  Bend  the 
tip  of  the  tongue  around,  and  tie  it  to  the  root.  Put  it  in 
cold  water  and  place  over  the  fire.  When  the  water  boils, 
pour  off  the  water,  and  put  it  on  again  in  cold  water. 
Boil  until  tender,  or  about  two  hours.  Remove  the  skin, 
roots,  and  fat.  Pour  a  white  sauce  over  the  tongue,  and 
serve  it  hot;  or  serve  it  cold  with  a  salad  dressing. 
Tongues  may  also  be  braised  (see  Braised  Beef,  page  224) 
and  served  hot  or  cold. 

Lyonnaise  Tripe. 

Tripe  should  always  be  boiled  twenty  to  thirty  minutes 
before  cooking,  or  it  will  be  tough. 

Cut  the  tripe  in  small  pieces  ;  boil  twenty-five  minutes, 
and  drain.  Fry  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  one 


Z/iver.  231 

heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  till  yellow.  Add  the  tripe, 
one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Simmer  five  minutes, 
and  serve  plain  or  on  toast. 

Broiled  Tripe.  —  Boil  the  tripe  twenty  minutes  ;  dry  it, 
spread  with  soft  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  broil  until 
brown. 

Tripe  in  Batter.  —  Boil  the  tripe  twenty  minutes.  Cut 
in  pieces  two  inches  square,  dip  in  batter,  and  fty  in  salt 
pork  fat  in  a  frying-pan. 

Batter.  —  One  egg,  one  quarter  of  a  cup  of  water,  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  flour  to 
make  almost  a  drop  batter. 

Liver. 

Soak  ten  minutes  in  boiling  water  to  draw  out  the 
blood.  Drain ;  remove  the  thin  skin  and  veins.  Cut 
into  pieces  for  serving.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper; 
roll  in  flour,  and  fty  in  salt  pork  or  bacon  fat.  Drain,  and 
serve  with  a  brown  gravy,  seasoned  with  onion,  lemon 
juice,  or  vinegar.  Or  spread  with  butter,  and  broil,  and 
season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 

Kidneys. 

Beef  and  sheep's  kidneys  are  often  recommended  for 
food  on  account  of  their  cheapness.  Epicures  are  fond 
of  them.  The  taste  for  them  is  an  acquired  taste,  which 
it  is  not  desirable  to  cultivate.  The  latest  decision  of 
physicians  is  that  they  are  not  suitable  to  eat ;  as  "  from 
their  constant  use  in  the  animal  system  as  excretory  or- 
gans, —  organs  which  separate  from  the  blood  that  which, 
if  it  remained  in  the  blood,  would  poison  the  system,  — 
they  are  often  liable  to  become  diseased." 


232  The  Boston  Cook  BOOK. 


MUTTON  AND  LAMB. 

MUTTON  stands  next  to  beef  in  nutritive  qualities,  and 
with  many  has  even  more  value  as  food,  because  more 
easily  digested.  In  mutton  about  one  half  the  weight  is 
in  fat,  while  with  beef  it  is  only  one  third. 

The  choicest  mutton  comes  from  the  mountainous  re» 
gions  of  Pennsylvania,  Virginia,  and  North  Carolina. 
Good  mutton  should  be  large  and  heavy,  the  fat  clear 
white  and  very  hard,  the  flesh  fine-grained  and  bright 
red.  Poor  mutton  has  but  little  fat,  and  little  flesh  as 
compared  with  the  bone. 

Mutton  is  cut  at  the  market  by  splitting  down  the  back, 
and  dividing  at  the  loin  into  the  hind  and  fore  quarters ; 
or  the  hind  and  fore  quarters  are  separated  without  split- 
ting, and  the  loin  is  taken  out  whole  and  sold  as  the  sad- 
dle of  mutton.  The  leg,  loin,  and  saddle  are  best  for 
roasting,  and  are  better  if  kept  for  some  time  before  cook- 
ing. The  leg,  if  to  be  boiled,  should  be  fresh.  The  fore 
quarter  is  good  boned  and  stuffed ;  then  steamed,  and 
browned  in  the  oven.  The  neck  arid  bones  are  used  for 
broths  and  stews.  Chops  are  cut  from  the  ribs  and  from 
the  loin.  The  rib  chops  are  sometimes  cut  long,  with  the 
flank  on.  The  bone  is  removed  and  the  meat  rolled. 
These  roll  chops  are  not  economical,  as  the  flank  forms  the 
greater  part.  French  chops  are  cut  short  from  the  rib, 
and  the  flesh  is  scraped  clean  from  the  end  of  the  bone. 
The  best-flavored,  most  tender,  and  cheapest  in  the  end, 
are  the  chops  from  the  loin.  They  have  very  little  bone, 
and  a  piece  of  tenderloin. 

Mutton  has  a  strong  flavor,  disagreeable  to  man}''.  It 
is  said  to  be  caused  by  the  oil  from  the  wool,  which  pen- 
etrates the  skin.  The  pink  skin  above  the  fat  should 
always  be  removed  from  chops,  and  wherever  it  is  pos- 


Leg  of  Mutton.  233 


sible,  scrape  it  off  without  cutting  into  the  lean.  The 
caul,  or  lining  membrane  of  the  abdomen,  is  fastened 
round  the  meat,  particularly  on  the  leg,  partly  to  increase 
its  weight.  This  is  often  left  on  in  roasting  to  help  baste 
the  meat ;  but  it  gives  a  strong  flavor,  and  should  always 
be  removed,  and  the  kidney  fat  used  if  needed.  If  care 
be  taken  in  selecting  only  the  best  mutton,  and  in  cook- 
ing it  in  the  best  manner,  many  who  have  become  preju- 
diced against  it  could  eat  it  with  as  much  relish  as  beef. 
Mutton  may  be  cooked  rare,  but  lamb  should  always  be 
well  cooked.  The  end  of  the  bone  in  a  leg  of  mutton  is 
smooth  and  oval,  and  is  separated  at  the  joint;  while 
lamb  may  be  known  from  mutton  by  the  flat,  irregularly 
grooved  end  of  the  bone,  which  is  broken  off  squarely, 
instead  of  separated  at  the  joint.  Sometimes  the  bone 
is  cut  off  close  to  the  second  joint,  and  then  you  will  have 
to  depend  upon  the  word  of  your  butcher. 

Saddle  or  Loin  of  Mutton  or  Lamb. 

Trim  off  all  the  pink  skin  and  superfluous  fat.  Remove 
the  ends  of  the  ribs,  the  cord,  and  veins  along  the  back. 
Wipe,  and  rub  the  inside  with  salt.  Roll  the  flank  under 
on  each  side,  and  sew  it  across  the  middle.  Dredge  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour  ;  place  it  in  the  pan,  with  the  inside 
up,  in  order  to  thoroughly  cook  the  fat.  Baste,  and 
dredge  often.  When  the  fat  is  brown  and  crisp,  turn, 
and  cook  the  upper  part  till  brown.  Keep  a  buttered 
paper  over  it  to  prevent  burning. 

Carve  long  slices  parallel  with  the  backbone,  then  slip 
the  knife  under  and  separate  the  slices  from  the  ribs. 
Divide  the  slices,  and  serve  with  some  of  the  crisp  fat. 

A  loin  of  mutton  may  be  stuffed  and  rolled,  having  first 
removed  the  ends  of  the  ribs.  Bake,  and  serve  in  slices 
cut  at  right  angles  with  the  backbone. 

Leg  of  Mutton,  Stuffed  and  Roasted. 

Remove  the  bone  ;  wipe  inside  and  out  with  a  wet  cloth ; 
sprinkle  the  inside  with  salt ;  stuff  and  sew.  Put  it  on  » 


234  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

rack  in  a  dripping-pan,  with  some  of  the  kidney  suet  on 
the  meat  and  in  the  pan.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven.  Baste  as  soon  as  the  flour 
is  brown,  and  baste  often.  Bake  one  hour,  if  liked  rare ; 
one  hour  and  a  quarter,  if  well  done. 

Stuffing.  —  One  cup  of  cracker  or  stale  bread  crumbs. 
Season  with  one  saltspoonful  each  of  salt,  pepper,  thyme,  or 
marjoram,  and  moisten  with  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  melted 
butter.  Add  hot  water  if  a  moist  stuffing  be  desired. 

Boiled  Leg  of  Mutton  or  Lamb.  — Wipe,  remove  the  fat, 
and  put  into  well-salted  boiling  water.  Skim,  and  simmer 
twelve  minutes  for  each  pound  of  meat.  One  quarter  of  a 
cup  of  rice  is  sometimes  boiled  with  the  mutton,  or  the 
meat  may  be  tied  in  a  cloth  to  keep  it  from  becoming 
discolored.  Serve  with  a  thick  caper  sauce  poured  over  the 
mutton.  Garnish  with  parsley.  Serve  with  currant  jelty. 

Carve  slices  from  the  thickest  part  of  the  leg  down  to 
the  bone ;  then  slip  the  knife  under  and  remove  the  slices 
from  the  bone.  The  thickest  part  of  the  leg  should  be 
toward  the  back  of  the  platter. 

What  to  do  with  a  Fore  Quarter  of  Mutton. 

Mutton  Duck.  —  Select  a  fore  quarter  of  mutton  with 
the  whole  length  of  the  leg  bone  left  on.  Ask  the  butcher 
to  cut  off  what  is  called  a  raised  shoulder,  that  is,  raised 
from  the  backbone  and  ribs,  cutting  it  far  up  on  the 
shoulder  to  take  in  the  whole  of  the  shoulder  blade,  bone, 
and  gristle.  You  may  cut  it  yourself  by  removing  the 
neck,  the  back  bones,  the  ribs,  and  breast  bones,  leaving 
the  shoulder  blade  in  the  upper  part.  Then  scrape  the 
flesh  from  the  shoulder  blade,  and  separate  the  blade  at 
the  joint.  Lay  it  aside  for  further  use.  Kemove  the  meat 
from  the  leg  bone,  turning  the  meat  over,  as  you  would 
turn  a  glove  over  your  hand.  Be  careful  not  to  cut 
through  the  thin  skin  at  the  end  of  the  leg.  When  within 
three  inches  of  the  lower  joint,  saw  the  bone  off,  and  saw 
or  trim  the  bone  below  the  joint  into  the  shape  of  a  duck's 
bill.  Bend  the  joint  without  breaking  the  skin.  Wipe  the 


Mutton  Duck.  235 


meat  and  rub  inside  with  salt.  Make  a  moist  stuffing  and 
put  it  in  between  the  layers  of  meat  With  a  coarse  needle 
threaded  with  twine  gather  the  edges  of  the  meat,  draw 
them  together,  fill  the  cavity  with  stuffing,  and  shape  the 
meat  into  a  long  oval  form  like  the  body  of  a  duck.  Bend 
the  leg  at  the  lower  joint  to  represent  the  duck's  head  and 
neck,  and  keep  it  in  place  with  skewers.  Run  one  skewer 


FIG.  26.    Mutton  Duck. 

through  the  side  at  the  top  of  the  body,  and  put  one  into  the 
body  on  each  side  of  the  neck.  Wind  a  string  around  the 
bill,  and  fasten  it  to  the  skewers.  Scrape  the  shoulder  blade 
clean,  trim  the  bony  end  into  a  sharp  point,  and  notch  the 
gristle  at  the  opposite  end.  Insert  this  in  the  body  to 
represent  the  tail,  and  fasten  with  twine.  Put  the  bones 
and  scraps  of  meat  in  water  in  a  steamer  or  kettle.  Place 
the  duck  on  a  plate,  and  steam  it  over  the  bones  one  hour 
to  make  it  tender.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour, 
and  bake  one  hour,  or  till  brown ;  use  the  water  in  the 
kettle  for  basting  if  needed,  or  for  a  gravy.  Tie  paper 
over  the  head  and  tail  to  prevent  burning.  This  may  be 
made  of  lamb,  and  if  tender  will  require  no  steaming. 
Garnish  with  parsley  and  Scotch  eggs,  or  with  any  kind  of 
force-meat  balls ,  crumbed  and  fried,  or  with  egg-shaped 
potato  croquettes. 

This  Mock  Duck  is  an  attractive  way  of  serving  what  is 
usuall}7  considered  an  inferior  piece  of  meat,  and  solves  the 
vexing  problem,  "  how  to  carve  a  fore  quarter  of  mutton." 


236  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  bones  may  be  entirely  removed,  and  the  meat 
stuffed,  and  sewed  in  an  oval  shape,  then  steamed  and 
browned ;  this  will  prove  just  as  palatable  to  those  who  do 
not  crave  something  new.  In  serving,  cut  it  across  in 
medium  slices. 

Braised  Mutton.  —  Bone  and  stuff  the  leg  or  the  fore 
quarter,  as  directed  in  the  preceding  receipts  ;  cut  the  bone 
at  the  joints.  Add  oysters  to  the  stuffing  if  preferred, 
and  cook  the  same  as  braised  beef.  The  breast  of  mut- 
ton may  be  boned  and  rolled  without  stuffing  and  then 
braised. 

Lamb  or  Mutton  Chops. — Wipe  with  a  wet  cloth;  re- 
move the  skin  and  extra  fat ;  have  a  frying-pan  hissing 
hot,  without  any  fat;  put  in  the  chops  and  cook  one 
minute,  turn,  and  sear  the  other  side  ;  cook  more  slowly 
until  done,  five  minutes  if  liked  rare.  Stand  them  up 
on  the  fat  edge  to  brown  the  fat,  without  over-cooking 
the  meat.  When  nearly  done,  sprinkle  a  little  salt  on  each 
side.  Drain  on  paper,  and  serve  hot,  either  plain  or  with 
tomato  or  Soubise  sauce. 

Mutton  Cutlets,  Breaded.  —  Trim  the  cutlets,  and  season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Dip  in  crumbs,  beaten  egg,  and  crumbs 
again,  and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat,  four  to  six 
minutes  if  rare,  eight  to  ten  if  well  done.  Ar- 
range in  the  centre  of  a  hot  dish,  and  pour  tomato 
sauce  around  them,  or  place  them  around  a  mound 
of  mashed  potatoes  or  spinach.  Trim  the  bones 
with  a  paper  ruffle;  or  arrange  them  with  the 
bone  end  up,  stacked  like  bayonets,  and  gar- 
nish with  stuffed  tomatoes. 
paF'r  ^  Chops  en  Papillote.  — Wipe,  trim,  wrap  in  but- 

e>  tered  papers,  and  broil  from  three  to  five  min- 
utes ;  season,  and  serve  plain  or  trimmed  with  paper 
ruffles.  Or  make  a  thick  sauce  with  one  cup  of  boiling 
stock,  thickened  with  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  cooked  together  and  flavored 
with  mushrooms,  parsley,  and  lemon  juice.  Lay  the  cutlets 
on  clean  papers,  spread  the  sauce  over  them,  fold  the 


Mutton  Chops. 


237 


edges,  place  in  a  pan  in  the  oven  for  ten  minutes.     Serve 

in  the  papers.     If  the  chops  be  tough,  dip  them  hi  olive  oil 

before  broiling. 

Fricassee  of  Mut- 
ton or  Lamb  with 

Peas.  —  Cut     two 

pounds  of  the  breast 

of  mutton  or  lamb 

into  square  pieces. 

Dredge   with    salt 

and     flour,      and 

brown     in     butter 

or  drippings.     Put 

them    in   a   stew- 
pan  with  one  onion 

sliced,  cover  with 

boiling  water,  and 

simmer   until   the 

bones  slip  out.     Remove  the  bones,  strain  the  liquor,  skim 

off  the  fat,  and  when  the  liquor  boils  again,  add  the  meat, 
salt,  and  pepper,  and  stew  until 
nearly  tender  ;  then  add  one  quart 
of  peas,  or  one  pint  of  boiled  mac- 
aroni cut  into  half-inch  pieces,  or 
one  pint  of  asparagus  tips,  and  sim- 
mer fifteen  minutes. 

Mutton  Stew  for  Two. —  Two  mut- 
ton chops,  cut  from  near  the  shoul- 
der. Put  them  in  a  shallow  pan 
having  a  tight  cover.  Pour  on 
boiling  water  to  the  depth  of  one 
inch  ;  cover  and  simmer  one  hour ; 
add  more  water  as  it  boils  away, 
using  only  enough  to  keep  the 
meat  from  burning.  Add  two 
slices  of  French  turnip,  two  small 

onions  whole ;  and  when  the  meat  and  turnip  are  nearly 
tender,  add  two  common-sized  potatoes,  having  first  soaked 


238  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  scalded  them.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little 
pepper.  Remove  the  vegetables  without  breaking  ;  let  the 
water  boil  nearly  away,  leaving  enough  for  a  gravy.  Re- 
move  the  fat,  thicken  the  gravy  with  flour,  and  if  needed 
add  salt  and  tomato  catchup.  Pour  it  over  the  meat. 

Gurry  of  Mutton.  —  Fry  one  large  onion,  cut  fine,  in  one 
heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Mix  one  tablespoonful  of 
curry  powder,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour,  and  stir  it  into  the  butter  and  onion.  Add  gradu- 
ally one  pint  of  hot  water  or  stock.  Cut  two  pounds  of  lean 
mutton  into  small  pieces,  and  brown  them  in  hot  fat ;  add 
them  to  the  sauce,  and  simmer  until  tender.  Place  the 
meat  on  a  hot  dish,  and  arrange  a  border  of  boiled  rice 
or  Turkish  pilaf  around  the  meat.  Slices  of  cold  cooked 
mutton  may  be  used  instead  of  the  fresh  meat.  Veal 
curry  is  prepared  in  the  same  manner. 

Ragout  of  Mutton,  made  from  the  fore  quarter,  or  any 
cooked  mutton,  may  be  prepared  as  directed  for  beef 
stew,  adding  carrots  and  turnips  cut  small,  and  seasoning 
highly. 

Sheep's  Tongues,  Braised. 

Wash,  dredge  with  salt  and  flour,  and  brown  in  salt  pork 
fat,  with  one  or  two  minced  onions.  Put  them  in  a  pan 
with  water  or  stock  to  half  cover  ;  add  one  sprig  of  parsley, 
a  little  salt  and  pepper  ;  cover  and  cook  two  hours,  or  until 
tender.  Remove  the  skin,  and  trim  neatly  at  the  roots. 
Place  a  mound  of  spinach  in  the  centre  of  the  dish ;  ar- 
range the  tongues  around  the  spinach,  alternating  with 
diamonds  of  fried  bread. 

Lambs'  Tongues,  Soiled.  —  Boil  six  tongues  in  salted 
water,  with  the  juice  of  half  a  lemon,  until  tender.  Serve 
cold  with  Tartar  sauce.  Or  pickle  them  by  covering  with 
hot  spiced  vinegar. 


Veal  239 


VEAL. 

VEAL  is  always  in  the  market,  but  is  better  in  the 
spring.  The  fat  should  be  white  and  clear ;  and  the  lean, 
pink  or  flesh  color.  If  the  flesh  be  white,  the  calf  has 
been  bled  before  being  killed,  and  the  meat  is  unfit  to  eat. 
Veal  contains  less  nitrogen,  but  more  gelatine,  than  beef. 
It  has  very  little  flavor,  and  needs  to  be  highly  seasoned 
to  make  it  even  palatable.  Veal  stands  lowest  among 
heat-producing  meats,  and  should  be  eaten  with  potatoes 
or  rice,  which  stand  highest,  or  with  bacon  and  jelly,  which 
furnish  in  their  fat  and  sugar  the  carbon  wanting  in  the 
flesh.  It  should  always  be  thoroughly  cooked,  as  under- 
done veal  is  not  wholesome.  At  its  lowest  price  veal  is 
never  a  cheap  food  when  we  take  into  consideration  the 
small  amount  of  nutriment  it  contains,  the  large  amount  of 
fuel  required  to  cook  it,  and  the  danger  of  being  made  ill 
by  its  use. 

The  lower  part  of  the  leg  or  knuckle  and  all  the  gristly 
portions  are  used  for  soups.  Cutlets,  or  steaks,  the  fillet, 
fricandeau,  or  cushion,  are  cut  from  the  thickest  part  of 
the  leg.  The  loin  is  used  for  chops  or  roasts,  the  breast 
for  roasts,  and  the  neck  for  stews  and  soups.  Calf  s  head 
and  pluck  includes  the  lights,  heart,  and  liver.  The  head 
is  used  for  soup,  the  heart  and  liver  for  braising.  The 
lights  are  now  seldom  used. 

Boast  Veal. 

The  loin,  breast,  and  fillet  (a  thick  piece  from  the  upper 
part  of  the  leg)  are  the  best  pieces  for  roasting.  The 
bone  should  be  removed  from  the  fillet,  and  the  cavity 
filled  with  a  highly  seasoned  and  very  moist  stuffing.  Tie 
or  skewer  into  a  round  shape.  Dredge  with  *a&,  peppet, 


240  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  flour.  Put  strips  of  pork  over  the  top,  and  bake. 
Allow  half  an  hour  to  a  pound.  Cover  with  a  buttered 
paper  to  keep  the  meat  from  burning.  Add  water,  when 
the  flour  has  browned,  and  baste  often.  Serve  with  horse- 
radish or  tomato  sauce. 

Fricandeau  of  Veal.  —  This  is  made  of  a  thick  piece  of 
lean  meat  from  the  top  of  the  leg.  Trim  it  off  high  in  the 
centre  and  thin  on  the  edges,  and  lard  the  top.  Braise  it 
in  stock  highly  seasoned  with  bacon,  onions,  and  herbs  (see 
Braised  Beef) .  Serve  it  with  tomato  or  horseradish  sauce. 

Veal  Stew  or  Fricassee. 

The  ends  of  the  ribs,  the  neck,  and  the  knuckle  may  be 
utilized  in  a  stew.  Cut  the  meat  —  two  pounds  —  in  small 
pieces,  and  remove  all  the  fine  bones.  Cover  the  meat 
with  boiling  water  ;  skim  as  it  begins  to  boil ;  add  two  small 
onions,  two  teaspoonfuls  of  salt,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  pep- 
per. Simmer  until  thoroughly  tender.  Cut  four  potatoes 
in  halves ;  soak  in  cold  water,  and  parboil  them  five  min- 
utes ;  add  them  to  the  stew.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of 
flour  wet  in  cold  water,  and  more  seasoning  if  desired ; 
and  just  before  serving  add  one  cup  of  cream,  or  if  milk  be 
used  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Remove  the  bones 
before  serving.  To  make  Veal  Pot-Pie  add  dumplings,  as 
in  Beef  Stew.  If  intended  for  a  fricassee,  fry  the  veal  in 
salt  pork  fat  before  stewing,  and  omit  the  potatoes.  Add 
one  egg  to  the  liquor  just  before  serving,  if  you  wish  it 
richer. 

Veal  Cutlets.     (Joanna  Sweeny.} 

One  slice  of  veal  from  the  leg.  Wipe,  and  remove  the 
bone,  skin,  and  tough  membranes.  Pound  and  cut,  or  shape 
into  pieces  for  serving.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Roll  in  flne  crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  crumbs 
again.  Fry  several  slices  of  salt  pork,  and  fry  the  cutlets 
brown  in  the  pork  fat.  When  brown,  put  the  cutlets  in  a 
stewpan.  Make  a  brown  gravy  with  one  tablespoonful  of 
butter,  or  the  fat  remaining  in  the  pan  if  it  be  not 


Calf's  Liver.  241 


burned,  and  two  heaping  tablespoonfuk  of  flour.  Pour 
on  gradually  a  cup  and  a  half  of  stock  or  water.  Season 
with  Worcestershire  sauce  or  lemon  or  horseradish  or  tomato. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  cutlets,  and  simmer  forty-five  min- 
utes or  till  tender.  Take  them  out  on  a  platter,  remove 
the  fat  from  the  gravy,  add  more  seasoning  if  needed,  and 
strain  over  the  cutlets.  Garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

Calf  s  Liver,  Braised. 

Wipe  with  a  clean  wet  cloth.  Lard  the  rounded  side 
with  bacon  or  salt  pork.  Fry ,  one  onion  in  salt  pork  fat. 
Put  the  liver  and  fried  onion  in  a  braising-pan ;  add  hot 
water  or  stock  to  half  cover,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  pepper,  and  one  tabkspoonful  of  herbs.  Cover, 
and  cook  in  a  moderate  oven  two  hours,  basting  often. 
When  ready  to  serve,  strain  the  liquor,  season  with  lemon 
juice,  and  pour  it  over  the  liver. 

Calf's  Heart,  Braised.  —  Wash,  remove  the  veins  and 
arteries,  and  stuff  with  cracker  crumbs,  seasoned  with  onion 
juice,  salt,  pepper,  and  herbs,  and  moistened  with  butter. 


FIG.  30.    Calf  s  Heart 

Lard  with  bacon  or  salt  pork.  Dredge  with  salt  and  flour. 
Fry  one  onion  in  salt  pork  fat  or  dripping ;  brown  the  meat 
in  the  pork  fat.  Cook  it  as  liver  is  cooked,  by  the  preced- 
ing receipt. 

Calf's  Head. 

Scrape  and  clean  a  calf  s  head.  Take  out  the  brains  and 
tongue,  and  put  them  in  cold  water.  Remove  all  the  dark 
membrane  from  the  inside,  and  the  gristle  around  the  nose 

16 


242  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  eyes.  Soak  two  hours  in  lukewarm  water  to  whiten 
it.  Put  the  head,  tongue,  and  heart  on  to  boil  in  cold 
water,  and  skiin  carefully.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  herbs 
tied  in  a  piece  of  strainer  cloth,  one  tablespoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Pour  boiling  water  over  the 
liver,  let  it  stand  ten  minutes,  and  when  the  head  is  nearly 
done,  add  the  liver.  When  done,  take  up  the  head ;  re- 
move the  skin  in  as  nice  pieces  as  possible.  Put  the 
pieces  of  head  meat  on  the  platter ;  lay  the  skin  over  them. 
Cut  the  heart,  tongue,  and  liver  in  slices,  and  place  them 
round  the  edge  of  the  dish.  If  the  head  is  to  be  served 
with  the  bones,  tie  it  in  a  floured  cloth,  and  boil  it  until 
tender,  but  not  long  enough  for  the  skin  to  fall  off.  Serve 
it  plain ;  or  score  the  top,  brush  with  beaten  egg,  sprinkle 
battered  cracker  crumbs  over  it,  and  brown  in  the  oven. 
Serve  with  it  a  brown  sauce  piquante,  tomato  sauce,  or 
brain  sauce. 

Brain  Sauce.  —  Clean  the  brains,  remove  the  red  mem- 
brane, and  soak  in  cold  water.  Put  them  into  one  pint  of 
cold  water  with  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Boil  ten  minutes ;  then  plunge  into 
cold  water.  Make  one  pint  of  drawn  butter  sauce;  flavor 
with  lemon  and  parsley ;  add  the  brains  chopped  fine,  and 
when  hot  serve. " 

Calf's  Head,  Minced.  —  Chop  what  is  left  of  the  head, 
tongue,  and  liver  very  fine,  and  warm  it  in  a  sauce  made 
with  the  meat  liquor  ;  season  with  lemon  or  horseradish,  salt, 
and  pepper. 

Sweetbreads. 

The  sweetbreads  found  in  veal  are  considered  the  best. 
They  are  two  large  glands  lying  along  the  back  of  the 
throat  and  in  the  breast.  The  lower  one  is  round  and 
compact,  and  called  the  heart  sweetbread,  because  nearer 
the  heart.  The  upper,  or  throat,  sweetbread  is  long  and 
narrow,  and  easily  divided  into  sections.  The  connecting 
membrane  is  sometimes  broken,  and  each  gland  sold  as  a 
whole  sweetbread.  But  there  should  always  be  two.  Sweet- 


Sweetbreads.  243 


breads  were  formerly  thrown  away  as  worthless ;  but  the 
demand  for  them  has  increased  so  that  now  they  are  a  lux- 
ury. They  have  a  delicate  flavor,  and  as  they  spoil 
quickly,  should  be  put  into  cold  water  as  soon  as  pur- 
chased, and  parboiled  before  using  in  any  form,  to  insure 
their  being  thoroughly  cooked.  They  are  sometimes  left 
on  the  breast  of  veal,  and  may  then  be  roasted  with  the 
meat. 

To  Prepare  Sweetbreads. — Put  them  in  cold  water;  re- 
move the  pipes  and  membranes.  Cook  them  in  boiling 
salted  water,  with  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  twenty 
minutes,  and  plunge  into  cold  water  to  harden.  They  may 
then  be  cooked  in  either  of  the  following  ways  :  — 

Larded.  —  Lard,  and  bake  until  brown,  basting  with 
brown  stock.  Serve  with  peas. 

Fried.  — •  Roll  in  fine  bread  crumbs,  egg,  and  a  second 
time  in  crumbs,  and  fry  in  deep  fat,  or  saute  in  a  little  fat. 

No.  2.  —  Cut  in 
half-inch  slices,  roll 
in  seasoned  crumbs, 
egg,  and  crumbs  again. 
Put  three  slices  on  a 
small  skewer,  alter- 
nating with  three  thin 

slices     Of      bacon     one  p^.  31.    Sweetbreads  and  Bacon. 

inch  square.     Fry  in 

deep  fat.     Serve  on  the  skewers,  with  tomato  sauce. 

Creamed.  —  Cut  in  small  pieces,  and  serve  in  a  white 
sauce,  on  toast  or  in  toast  patties  or  in  puff-paste  shells  or 
as  a  vol-au-vent. 

Broiled.  —  Rub  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper ;  wrap  in 
buttered  paper,  and  broil  ten  minutes.  Serve  with  Mafare 
d"  Hotel  butter. 

Scalloped  or  in  Cases.  —  Cut  or  break  the  sweetbreads 
into  small  sections.  Mix  with  a  rich  cream  sauce  made 
with  eggs  (see  page  190).  Put  them  in  a  scallop  dish,  in 
shells,  or  in  paper  cases.  Cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and 
bake  until  the  crumbs  are  brown. 


244  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

With  Mushrooms.  —  Prepare  as  for  creamed  or  scalloped, 
and  add  half  or  an  equal  amount  of  mushrooms,  chopped 
or  cut  into  quarters.  Garnish  with  toast  points. 

Braised.  —  Lard  with  bacon.  Put  in  a  covered  pan 
with  fried  onions,  and  parsley,  and  a  pinch  of  herbs,  tied 
in  a  cloth.  Half  cover  with  stock.  Bake  forty  or  fifty 
minutes. 

Fritters. — Break  into  sections,  and  mix  with  a  fritter 
batter  (page  106).  Fry  by  small  spoonfuls  in  deep  fat. 

Sweetbread  Croquettes,  see  Index. 

To  serve  sweetbreads,  either  larded,  broiled,  or  fried, 
arrange  around  a  centre  of  tomato  sauce,  mushrooms,  or 


FIG.  82.    Sweetbreads  on  Macaroni 

peas.  Or  put  the  sweetbreads  in  the  centre  on  a  nest 
of  boiled  macaroni.  Sprinkle  the  macaroni  with  cheese, 
and  pour  white  sauce  or  tomato  sauce  over  it ;  or  garnish 
the  sweetbreads  with  stuffed  tomatoes. 

Garnish  for  Fried  or  Larded  Sweetbreads.  —  Cut  into 
strips  the  size  of  matches,  part  of  the  breast  of  a  roasted 
or  boiled  chicken,  some  cold  boiled  ham  and  cooked 
spaghetti,  about  a  cup  of  each.  Keep  them  hot  in  a 
steamer  until  the  sauce  is  ready.  Stew  half  a  can  of 
tomato  until  soft.  Rub  all  but  the  seeds  through  a 
puree  strainer.  Heat  again  and  boil  down  till  quite  thick 
and  reduced  to  one  cup.  Season  with  one  tablespoonful 
of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  a  bit  of  cayenne,  and 
one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  Add  one  tablespoonful 
of  glaze  if  you  have  it.  When  the  sweetbreads  are  ready, 
arrange  the  mixture  of  ham,  spaghetti,  and  chicken  on  a 
hot  platter ;  pour  the  tomato  over  it  and  lay  the  sweet- 
breads on  the  top. 


Pork.  245 


PORK. 

PORK  is  an  unwholesome  meat,  and  should  never  be 
eaten  by  children,  or  people  with  weak  digestion,  nor, 
indeed,  by  any  one  except  in  cold  weather.  Salt  pork, 
bacon,  and  ham  are  less  objectionable  than  fresh  pork. 
If  fresh  pork  be  desired,  obtain  it,  if  possible,  from  a 
source  where  you  can  be  sure  the  animal  has  been  kept 
in  a  cleanly  manner  and  fattened  on  corn.  Fresh  pork 
should  be  young  and  firm,  the  fat  white,  the  lean  a  pale 
red,  and  the  skin  white  and  clear.  The  fat,  when  salted, 
should  be  a  delicate  pink,  and  the  rind  should  be  thin. 
Soft,  flabby  flesh,  and  yellowish  fat  with  kernels,  indicate 
that  the  pork  is  not  of  the  best  quality.  Unlike  other 
meat,  pork  is  divided  into  fat  and  lean.  The  flank  and 
the  thick  layer  of  fat  above  the  flesh  are  salted.  The 
sides  of  very  3'oung  pigs  are  smoked,  as  well  as  sailed,  and 
are  called  bacon.  The  hams  and  shoulders  are  salted 
and  smoked.  The  head  and  feet  are  pickled  or  boiled, 
and  made  into  souse  or  head  cheese.  After  the  fat  is 
removed,  the  loin  and  ribs  are  used  for  roasting  or  for 
chops.  The  leaf  fat  from  the  kidneys  is  heated  until 
melted,  then  strained,  cooled,  and  used  as  lard.  The 
trimmings  of  lean  and  fat,  when  chopped  and  highly 
seasoned,  are  called  sausage  meat. 

Roast  Pig. 

Select  a  pig  from  three  to  five  weeks  old.  Clean  well, 
and  stuff  with  hot  mashed  potatoes,  or  stale  bread,  highly 
seasoned  with  sage,  salt,  pepper,  and  onions.  If  bread  be 
used,  moisten  with  warm  water,  melted  butter,  and  one  beaten 
egg.  Stuff  and  sew.  Skewer  the  fore  legs  forward,  and 


246  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  hind  legs  backward.  Rub  all  over  with  butter,  salt, 
pepper,  and  flour.  Put  it  into  a  pan  with  a  little  water  ; 
the  oven  should  not  be  very  hot  at  first,  as  it  should  be 
thoroughly  warmed  through  before  browning.  Baste  very 
often,  and  at  first  use  melted  butter  to  make  the  skin  tender 
and  soft.  Be  careful  not  to  let  it  burn.  Bake  two  and  a 
half  or  three  hours.  Arrange  in  a  bed  of  parsley  and 
celery  leaves,  with  a  ' i  tuft  of  cauliflower  in  the  mouth  and  a 
garland  of  parsley  round  the  neck."  Serve  with  apple  sauce 
or  pickles.  In  carving,  cut  off  the  head,  then  the  hams 
and  shoulders ;  split  down  the  back,  and  separate  the 
ribs. 

Roast  Pork.  — The  chine,  or  loin,  and  the  spare  ribs  are 
the  best  pieces  for  roasting.  Rub  well  with  pepper,  or  sage, 
salt,  and  flour,  and  bake  twenty  minutes  for  each  pound. 
Baste  often,  and  do  not  have  the  oven  as  hot  as  for 
other  meat.  Roast  pork  is  more  wholesome  when  eaten 
cold. 

Pork  Chops  or  Steaks.  —  If  pork  chops  are  to  be  broiled, 
they  should  be  cut  very  thin,  salted,  and  peppered,  wrapped 
in  greased  paper,  and  broiled  until  thoroughly  cooked,  — 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  To  fry  or  saute  them,  cook 
them  in  a  hot  frying-pan  in  a  little  hot  lard  or  salt  pork  fat. 
Cook  slowly  after  they  are  brown,  and  be  careM  not  to 
burn  them.  If  a  gravy  be  desired,  pour  off  nearly  all  the 
fat  left  in  the  frying-pan,  add  two  taUespoonfuls  of  flour, 
and  when  brown  add  hot  water  until  of  the  desired  consist- 
ency. Season  with  salt,  pepper,  vinegar,  and  chopped 
pickles. 

Breakfast  Bacon.  —  Cut  off  the  rind  and  smoked  part ; 
slice  very  thin ;  cook  in  a  frying-pan  till  the  fat  is  tried 
out  and  the  bacon  is  dry  and  crisp,  or  fry  in  deep  fat. 
Drain  on  paper,  and  serve  alone  or  as  a  garnish  for 
beefsteak. 

Fried  Salt  Pork.  —  Cut  fat  salt  pork  in  thin  slices  ;  pour 
hot  water  over  them  ;  drain,  and  fry  in  a  pan  until  crisp  ; 
or  roll  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  in  deep  hot  fat.  Serve 
With  salt  flsh  or  fried  mush  or  baked  potatoes. 


Ham.  247 


Boiled  Ham. 

If  very  salt,  let  it  soak  over  night  Scrub  well ;  trim  off 
the  hard  black  part,  cover  with  cold  water,  and  let  it 
simmer  slowly,  allowing  half  an  hour  to  the  pound.  Take 
it  from  the  fire ;  let  it  remain  in  the  water  until  nearly 
cold  ;  then  peel  off  the  skin  and  sprinkle  sugar  and  grated 
bread,  or  cracker  crumbs,  over  the  top,  and  brown  in  the 
oven.  Or  boil  until  nearly  tender ;  remove  the  skin  and 
bake  two  hours ;  baste  often  with  vinegar.  Cover  with 
crumbs,  return  to  the  oven,  and  brown.  Or  omit  the 
crumbs  and  cover  with  a  paste  made  with  one  teaspoonful 
of  brawn  flour  and  half  a  cup  of  brown  sugar,  moistened 
with  a  little  port  wine.  Spread  this  over  the  ham,  and 
brown  in  the  oven.  Serve  with  a  brown  sauce  flavored 
with  half  a  glass  of  champagne.  Trim  the  knuckle  with  a 
paper  ruffle.  In  carving,  cut  in  very  thin  slices.  Old 
hams  are  improved  by  adding  a  pint  of  vinegar  and  a  table- 
spoonful  of  herbs  to  the  water  in  which  they  are  boiled. 
If  the  ham  is  not  to  be  served  whole,  boil  till  it  is  very 
tender ;  let  it  cool,  and  remove  the  skin  and  bones,  and 
press  it,  with  the  fat  well  mixed  with  the  lean.  A  boiled 
ham  is  done  when  the  skin  will  peel  easily. 

To  serve  Cold  Boiled  Ham.  —  Cut  in  thin  slices  ;  season 
highly  with  cayenne  pepper,  or  with  mustard  and  lemon 
juice,  and  broil  two  minutes. 

Melt  half  a  glass  of  currant  jelly ;  add  a  teaspoonful  of 
butter,  a  little  pepper,  and  when  hot  add  several  small 
thin  slices  of  ham.  Let  it  boil  up  and  serve  at  once, 

Fried  Ham.  —  Cut  the  ham  in  thin  slices,  remove  the 
outside,  gash  the  fat,  and  cook  in  a  frying-pan  till  the 
fat  is  crisp.  If  cooked  too  long,  it  will  become  hard  and 
dry.  Ham  will  fry  quicker  and  be  less  dry  if  cooked  in 
hot  lard  or  some  of  the  ham  fat  from  a  previous  frying. 

Broiled  Ham.  —  Cut  in  very  thin  slices,  and  broil  three 
or  four  minutes.  Old  or  very  salt  ham  should  be  parboiled 
five  minutes  before  being  broiled.  Serve  with  poached  eggs. 


248  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


If  you  like  to  know  what  you  are  eating,  have  your 
sausage  meat  prepared  at  home  or  by  some  one  whom  you 
can  trust.  Of  sweet  fresh  pork  take  one  third  fat  and  two 
thirds  lean,  and  chop  fine,  or  have  it  ground  by  your 
butcher.  Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  sage 
(use  the  whole  sage  ;  dry,  pound,  and  sift  it).  Mix  thor- 
oughly. Make  cotton  bags,  one  yard  long  and  four 
inches  wide.  Dip  them  in  strong  salt  and  water,  and  dry 
before  filling.  Crowd  the  meat  into  the  bags  closely, 
pressing  it  with  a  pestle  or  potato-masher.  Tie  the  bag 
tightly  and  keep  in  a  cool  place.  When  wanted  for  use, 
turn  the  end  of  the  bag  back,  and  cut  off  the  meat  in  half- 
inch  slices,  and  cook  in  a  frying-pan  till  brown.  Core 
and  quarter  several  apples,  and  fry  in  the  hot  fat  and  serve 
with  the  sausages. 

A  safe  rule  in  seasoning  sausage  meat  is  one  even  table- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  sifted  sage,  and  a  scant 
half-teaspoonful  of  white  pepper  to  each  pound  of  meat. 

Souse. 

Take  the  gristly  part  of  the  pig's  head,  but  not  the  fat ; 
also  the  ears  and  feet.  Remove  the  hard  part  from  the 
feet.  Scald  or  singe  the  hairs,  soak  in  warm  water,  and 
scrape  thoroughly.  Let  them  remain  in  salt  and  water 
for  ten  hours.  Scrape,  and  clean  again,  and  put  them  a 
second  time  in  freshly  salted  water.  With  proper  care 
they  will  be  perfectly  clean.  Put  them  in  a  kettle  and 
cover  with  cold  water ;  skim  when  it  begins  to  boil ;  set 
back  and  let  it  simmer  till  the  bones  slip  out  easily.  Skim 
out  the  meat,  and  remove  the  hard  gristle,  bones,  and 
any  superfluous  fat.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  vinegar, 
and  pack  in  stone  jars.  When  hard,  cut  in  slices,  and 
brown  in  the  oven. 

Head  Cheese.  —  Prepare  the  same  as  souse,  omitting  the 
vinegar,  and  season  with  sage.  Put  into  a  strainer  cloth, 


Baked  Beans.  249 


and  press  out  the  fat.     Pack  it  in  jars  or  moulds.     Serve 
cold,  or  brown  slightly  in  a  frying-pan. 

Though  seldom  seen  on  modern  tables,  these  dishes 
when  carefully  prepared  are  very  acceptable  to  many  who 
have  pleasant  recollections  of  them  as  served  at  ' '  grand- 
mother's table." 

To  Try  out  Lard. 

Cut  the  leaves  into  small  pieces ;  remove  all  flesh  and 
membrane ;  put  a  few  pieces  in  a  kettle  on  the  back  of 
the  stove,  and  when  they  are  heated  through,  put  in  the 
remainder.  Cook  slowly  until  the  scraps  are  crisp  ;  strain 
through  a  fine  cloth  into  tin  pails  or  pans,  and  press  that 
obtained  from  the  scraps  into  a  separate  pail.  Never  put 
water  with  the  leaves,  as  the  object  is  to  expel  that  which 
they  already  contain,  and  there  is  no  danger  of  burning 
if  only  a  few  pieces  be  put  in  at  first,  and  the  kettle  be 
not  over  the  hot  fire.  The  kettle  should  not  be  covered 
until  the  scraps  are  crisp  ;  then  cover  it,  and  if  no  steam 
condenses  on  the  cover,  the  water  is  evaoorated. 

Baked  Pork  and  Beans. 

Soak  one  quart  of  pea  beans  in  cold  water  over  night. 
In  the  morning  put  them  into  fresh  cold  water,  and  simmer 
till  soft  enough  to  pierce  with  a  pin,  being  careful  not  to 
let  them  boil  enough  to  break.  If  you  like,  boil  one  onion 
with  them.  When  soft,  turn  them  into  a  colander,  and 
pour  cold  water  through  them.  Place  them  with  the  onion 
in  a  bean-pot.  Pour  boiling  water  over  one  quarter  of  a 
pound  of  salt  pork,  part  fat  and  part  lean  ;  scrape  the  rind 
tih1  white.  Cut  the  rind  in  half-inch  strips  ;  bury  the  pork 
in  the  beans,  leaving  only  the  rind  exposed.  Mix  one 
teaspoonfui  of  salt  —  more,  if  the  pork  is  not  very  salt  — 
and  one  teaspoonfui  of  mustard  with  one  quarter  of  a  cup  of 
molasses.  Fill  the  cup  with  hot  water,  and  when  well 
mixed  pour  it  over  the  beans  ;  add  enough  more  water  to 
cover  them.  Keep  them  covered  *»*h  water  until  the 


250  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

last  hour ;  then  lift  the  pork  to  the  surface  and  let  it  crisp. 
Bake  eight  hours  in  a  moderate  oven.  Use  more  salt  and 
one  third  of  a  cup  of  butter  if  you  dislike  pork,  or  use 
half  a  pound  of  fat  and  lean  corned  beef. 

The  mustard  gives  the  beans  a  delicious  flavor,  and 
also  renders  them  more  wholesome.  Many  add  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  soda  to  the  water  in  which  the  beans  are  boiled, 
to  destroy  the  acid  in  the  skin  of  the  beans.  Yellow-eyed 
beans  and  Lima  beans  are  also  good  when  baked. 

Much  of  the  excellence  of  baked  beans  depends  upon  the 
bean-pot.  It  should  be  earthen,  with  a  narrow  mouth  and 
bulging  sides.  This  shape  is  seldom  found  outside  of 
New  England,  and  is  said  to  have  been  modelled  after  the 
Assyrian  pots.  In  spite  of  the  slurs  against  "Boston 
Baked  Beans  "  it  is  often  remarked  that  strangers  enjoy 
them  as  much  as  natives  ;  and  many  a  New  England  bean- 
pot  has  been  carried  to  the  extreme  South  and  West,  that 
people  there  might  have  "  baked  beans"  in  perfection. 
They  afford  a  nutritious  and  cheap  food  for  people  who 
labor  in  the  open  air. 

Parsnip  and  Pork  Stew. 

Clean  and  scrape  the  rind  of  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of 
fat  salt  pork.  Put  it  on  to  boil  in  two  quarts  of  cold  water. 
Put  with  it  any  remnants  of  cold  roast  pork  or  pork 
chops,  first  removing  any  burned  parts ;  or  you  may  use 
one  pound  of  fresh,  uncooked  pork,  or  only  the  salt  pork, 
if  you  prefer.  After  it  has  stewed  for  an  hour,  skim  off 
the  fat.  Wash  and  scrape  two  large  parsnips,  cut  then 
in  inch  slices,  and  add  them  to  the  stew ;  add,  also,  one 
small  onion,  sliced.  Half  an  hour  before  dinner,  add 
four  or  Jive  potatoes,  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  parboiled 
five  minutes.  When  done,  skim  out  the  meat  and  vegeta- 
bles, thicken  the  liquor  with  flour  and  water,  add  more 
salt  and  pepper,  if  necessary,  cook  ten  minutes  longer, 
then  pour  it  over  the  meat. 


Poultry.  251 


POULTRY  AND   GAME. 

THE  flesh  of  poultry  and  of  game  birds  has  less  red 
blood  than  the  flesh  of  animals  ;  but  as  it  abounds  in  phos- 
phates, it  is  valuable  food,  particular^  for  invalids.  The 
flesh  is  drier,  and  not  marbled  with  fat  as  in  that  of  quad- 
rupeds. All  game  has  a  strong  odor  and  flavor,  which  is 
by  some  mistaken  for  that  of  tainted  meat.  It  should  be 
kept  till  tender,  but  no  longer,  unless  frozen. 

White-fleshed  game  should  be  cooked  till  well  done; 
that  with  dark  flesh  may  be  served  underdone.  The 
breast  of  all  birds  is  the  most  juicy  and  nutritious  part. 
' '  The  wing  of  a  walker  and  the  leg  of  a  flier  are  consid- 
ered choice  tidbits." 

To  Choose  Poultry  and  Game.  —  The  best  chickens  have 
soft  yellow  feet,  short  thick  legs,  smooth  moist  skin,  plump 
breast ;  and  the  cartilage  on  the  end  of  the  breast  bone 
is  soft  and  pliable.  This  is  sometimes  broken  in  fowls  to 
deceive  purchasers ;  but  the  difference  between  a  broken 
bone,  that  slips  when  moved,  and  a  soft  yielding  cartilage 
may  be  very  easity  detected.  Pin  feathers  alwaj's  indicate 
a  young  bird  ;  and  long  hairs,  an  older  one.  The  bodies 
of  capons  are  very  plump  and  fat,  and  larger  in  proportion 
than  those  of  fowls  or  chickens.  The  meat  is  of  finer 
flavor. 

Old  fowls  have  long  thin  necks  and  feet,  and  sharp 
scales  ;  the  flesh  has  a  purplish  tinge,  and  they  usually  have 
a  large  amount  of  fat. 

The  best  turkeys  have  smooth  black  legs,  with  soft, 
loose  spurs,  full  breasts,  and  white  plump  flesh. 

Geese  and  ducks  should  be  young,  not  more  than  a  year 
oid,  have  white  soft  fat,  yellow  feet,  and  tender  wings, 
and  be  thicl?  and  hard  on  the  breast.  The  windpipe 


252  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

should  break  when  pressed  with  the  thumb  and  finger. 
Wild  ducks  have  reddish  feet.  Tame  ducks  have  thick 
yellowish  feet. 

Young  pigeons  have  light  red  flesh  on  the  breast,  and 
full  flesh-colored  legs.  Old  pigeons  are  thin,  and  the  breast 
very  dark.  Wild  pigeons  are  cheaper,  but  are  dry  and  tough. 
Stall-fed  pigeons  are  the  best.  Squabs  are  young  tame 
pigeons,  and  always  have  pin  feathers. 

Grouse,  partridge,  and  quail  should  have  full  heavy 
breasts,  dark  bills,  and  yellowish  legs. 

Young  rabbits  should  have  smooth,  sharp  claws,  tender 
ears  and  paws,  and  short  necks. 

Venison  should  be  dark  red,  with  some  white  fat. 

To  Glean  and  Truss  Poultry  and  Game. — The  practice 
of  sending  poultry  to  market  undressed  is  one  that  de- 
mands as  earnest  opposition  from  housekeepers  as  that  of 
the  adulteration  of  food.  The  meat  is  rendered  unfit  to 
eat,  is  sometimes  infected  with  poison  ;  and  the  increase  in 
weight  makes  poultry  a  ve^  expensive  food.  All  poultry 
should  be  dressed  as  soon  as  killed.  The  feathers  come 
out  more  easily  when  the  fowl  is  warm,  and  when  stripped 
off  toward  the  head.  If  the  skin  be  very  tender,  pull  the 
feathers  out  the  opposite  way.  Use  a  knife  to  remove  the 
pin  feathers.  Singe  the  hairs  and  down  by  holding  the 
fowl  over  a  gas  jet,  or  over  a  roll  of  lighted  paper  held 
over  the  fire.  Cut  off  the  head,  and  if  the  fowl  is  to  be 
roasted,  slip  the  skin  back  from  the  neck  and  cut  the  neck 
off  close  to  the  body,  leaving  skin  enough  to  fold  over  on 
the  back.  Remove  the  windpipe ;  pull  the  crop  away 
from  the  skin  on  the  neck  and  breast,  and  cut  off  close  to 
the  opening  into  the  body.  Be  careful  not  to  tear  the  skin. 
Always  pull  the  crop  out  from  the  end  of  the  neck,  rather 
than  through  a  cut  in  the  skin,  which  if  made  has  to  be 
sewed  together.  Cut  through  the  skin  about  two  inches 
below  the  leg  joint ;  bend  the  leg  at  the  cut  by  pressing  it 
on  the  edge  of  the  table,  and  break  off  the  bone.  Then 
pull,  not  cut,  out  the  tendons.  If  care  be  taken  to  cut 
only  through  the  skin,  these  cords  may  be  pulled  out  easily. 


Fowl.  253 

one  at  a  time,  with  the  fingers.  Or  take  them  all  out  at 
once,  by  putting  the  foot  of  the  fowl  against  the  casing  of 
a  door,  then  shut  the  door  tightly  and  pull  on  the  leg. 
The  tendons  will  come  out  with  the  foot ;  but  if  once  cut 
they  cannot  be  removed.  The  drumstick  of  a  roast  chicken 
or  turkey  is  greatly  improved  by  removing  the  tendons, 
which  always  become  hard  and  bony  in  baking.  There  is 
a  special  advantage  in  cutting  the  leg  below  the  joint,  as 
the  ends  of  the  bones  afford  more  length  for  tying,  and 
after  roasting  this  is  easily  broken  off,  leaving  a  clean,  un- 
burned  joint  for  the  table.  Cut  out  the  oil  bag  in  the  tail. 
It  is  better  to  dress  a  fowl  for  a  fricassee  first.  Then  you 
learn  the  position  of  the  internal  organs,  and  can  tell  bet- 
ter how  to  remove  them  when  dressing  for  roasting,  as 
with  the  whole  fowl  you  work  by  feeling  and  not  by  sight. 

To  Cut  up  a  Fowl  for  a  Fricassee.  —  Cut  through  the 
loose  skin  between  the  legs  and  body,  bend  the  leg  over, 
and  cut  off  at  the  joint ;  then  cut  off  the  wings.  Make  an 
incision  in  the  skin  near  the  vent,  and  cut  the  membrane 
lying  between  the  breastbone  and  the  tail,  down  to  the 
backbone,  on  each  side.  Then  }TOU  have  the  intestines, 
gizzard,  liver,  and  heart  exposed,  and  can  easity  remove 
them.  Do  not  forget  the  kidneys,  lying  in  the  hollow  of 
the  backbone,  and  the  lungs  in  the  ribs.  Cut  the  ribs 
through  the  cartilage,  separate  the  collar  bone,  and  break 
the  backbone  just  below  the  ribs.  Divide  at  the  joints 
in  the  wings  and  legs ;  separate  the  side  bones  from  the 
back,  and  remove  the  bone  from  the  breast  Never  chop 
the  bones,  but  divide  smoothly  at  the  joints. 

To  Dress  a  Fowl  for  Roasting.  —  Make  an  incision  near 
the  vent ;  insert  two  fingers,  loosen  the  fat  from  the  skin, 
and  separate  the  membranes  lying  close  to  the  body. 
Keep  the  fingers  up  close  to  the  breastbone,  until  you  can 
reach  in  beyond  the  liver  and  heart,  and  loosen  on  either 
side  down  toward  the  back.  The  gall  bladder  lies  under 
the  lobe  of  the  liver  on  the  left  side,  and  if  the  fingers  be 
kept  up,  and  everything  loosened  before  drawing  out, 
there  will  be  no  danger  of  its  breaking.  The  kidneys  and 


254  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

lungs  are  often  left  in  by  careless  cooks ;  but  everything 
that  can  be  taken  out  must  be  removed.  When  the  fowl 
has  been  cleaned  carefully,  it  will  not  require  much  wash- 
ing. Hold  it  under  the  faucet,  or  rinse  out  the  inside 
quickly ;  then  wipe  dry. 

If  the  breastbone  protrude  more  than  is  desirable,  put  a 
small  knife  in  at  the  opening,  and  cut  through  the  cartilage 
in  the  ribs  or  through  the  breastbone.  Or  put  a  pestle 
in  the  inside,  lay  a  towel  over  the  breast,  and  pound  slightly 
until  the  bone  gives  way. 

To  Stuff  a  Fowl.  —  Place  the  fowl  in  a  bowl,  and  put 
the  stuffing  in  at  the  neck ;  fill  out  the  breast  until  plump 
and  even.  Then  draw  the  neck  skin  together  at  the  end, 
and  sew  it  over  on  the  back.  Put  the  remainder  of  the 
stuffing  into  the  body  at  the  other  opening,  and  if  full,  sew 
it  with  coarse  thread  or  fine  twine.  If  not  full,  sewing  is 
unnecessary,  except  when  the  fowl  is  to  be  boiled,, 

To  Truss  a  Fowl.  —  Draw  the  thighs  up  close  to  the  body, 
and  cross  the  legs  over  the  tail,  and  tie  firmly  with  twine. 
Put  a  long  skewer  through  the  thigh  into  the  body  and  out 
through  the  opposite  thigh,  and  another  through  the  wings, 
drawing  them  close  to  the  body.  Wind  a  string  from 
the  tail  to  the  skewer  in  the  thigh,  then  up  to  the  one  in  the 
wing,  across  the  back  to  the  other  wing,  then  down  to  the 
opposite  thigh,  and  tie  firmly  round  the  tail.  If  you  have 
no  skewers,  the  strings  must  be  passed  round  the  body, 
over  the  thighs  and  wings  ;  and  care  must  be  taken,  in 
removing  them,  not  to  tear  the  browned  crust  on  the  breast. 
Sometimes  the  feet  are  cut  off  in  the  joint,  and  the  legs 
passed  into  the  body  and  out  through  an  opening  under 
the  sidebone  near  the  tail,  or  left  in  the  body  and  covered 
with  the  skin. 

To  Glean  the  Giblets.  —  Slip  off  the  thin  membrane  round 
the  heart,  cut  out  the  veins  and  arteries,  remove  the  liver, 
and  cut  off  all  that  looks  green  near  the  gall  bladder. 
Trim  the  fat  and  membranes  from  the  gizzard,  cut  through 
the  thick  part ;  open  it,  and  remove  the  inner  lining  with- 
out breaking.  Cut  off  all  the  white  gristle,  and  use  only 


Carving  Poultry.  255 


the  thick  fleshy  part.  Wash,  and  put  them  in  cold  water, 
and  simmer  till  tender.  The  neck  and  tips  of  the  wings 
are  often  cooked  with  the  giblets. 

These  directions  apply  to  all  kinds  of  poultry  and  game. 

Wild  ducks,  coot,  and  geese  should  be  washed  thor- 
oughly on  the  outside  before  being  drawn.  Scrub  them 
with  slightly  warm  water  and  soap.  The  skin  is  very  thick 
and  oily,  and  it  is  impossible  to  get  it  clean  without 
soap. 

The  strong  smell  in  old  fowls  may  be  removed  by  wash- 
ing in  warm  soda  water. 

To  dress  Fowls  or  Birds  for  Broiling.  —  Singe,  wipe,  and 
split  down  the  middle  of  the  back ;  lay  open,  and  then 
remove  the  contents  from  the  inside.  Cut  the  tendons  in 
the  thigh,  or  break  the  joints,  and  remove  the  breastbone 
to  facilitate  the  carving. 

To  Carve  Poultry. —  Place  the  fowl  on  the  platter,  with 
the  head  at  the  left.  Put  the  fork  in  across  the  breast- 
bone. Cut  through  the  skin  round  the  leg  joint.  Bend 
the  leg  over  and  cut  off  at  the  joint.  Then  cut  off  the 
wings,  and  divide  wings  and  legs  at  the  joints.  Carve  the 
breast  in  thin  slices  parallel  with  the  breastbone.  Some 
prefer  to  cut  it  at  right  angles  with  the  bone.  Take  off 
the  wish-bone  ;  separate  the  collar-bone  from  the  breast ; 
slip  the  knife  under  the  shoulder  blade,  and  turn  it  over. 
Cut  through  the  cartilage  which  divides  the  ribs,  separat- 
ing the  breast  from  the  back.  Then  turn  the  back  over, 
place  the  knife  midway,  and  with  the  fork  lift  up  the  tail 
end,  separating  the  back  from  the  body.  Place  the  fork 
in  the  middle  of  the  backbone,  and  cut  close  to  the  back- 
bone, from  one  end  to  the  other,  freeing  the  side  bone. 
As  soon  as  the  legs  and  wings  are  disjointed,  begin  to 
serve,  offering  white  or  dark  meat  and  stuffing  as  each 
prefers.  Do  not  remove  the  fork  from  the  breastbone  till 
the  breast  is  separated  from  the  back.  Use  an  extra  fork 
in  serving.  If  all  the  fowl  be  not  required,  carve  only 
from  one  side,  leaving  the  opposite  side  whole  for  another 
meal. 


256  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Gravy  for  Roast  Poultry  and  Game.  — Put  the  giblets,  or 
neck,  liver,  gizzard,  and  heart,  on  to  boil  in  one  quart  of 
water,  and  boil  till  tender,  and  the  water  reduced  to  one 
pint.  Mash  the  liver,  and  if  desired  chop  the  gizzard, 
heart,  and  meat  from  the  neck.  Pour  off  the  clear  fat 
from  the  dripping-pan,  and  put  the  settlings  into  a  sauce- 
pan ;  rinse  out  the  pan  with  the  water  in  which  the  giblets 
were  boiled,  and  pour  this  water  into  the  saucepan  and 
put  on  to  boil.  Put  three  or  four  tablespoonfuls  of  the  fat 
into  a  small  frying-pan ;  add  enough  dry  flour  to  absorb 
all  the  fat,  and  when  brown  add  the  giblet  liquor  gradu- 
ally, and  stir  till  it  thickens.  Season  with  salt  and  pep- 
per. If  not  smooth,  strain  it ;  pour  half  of  it  into  the 
gravy  boat,  and  add  the  chopped  giblets  to  the  remaining 
half,  and  serve  separately,  as  all  may  not  care  for  the 
giblet  gravy. 

Roast  Turkey. 

Clean  as  directed  on  page  252.  Stuff  with  soft,  bread  or 
tracker  crumbs  highly  seasoned  with  sage,  thyme,  salt, 
and  pepper  ;  moisten  the  stuffing  with  half  a  cup  of  melted 
butter,  and  hot  water  enough  to  make  it  quite  moist.  Add 
one  beaten  egg.  Some  use  salt  pork  chopped  fine,  but 
stuffing  is  more  wholesome  without  it.  Oysters,  chestnuts, 
chopped  celery,  stoned  raisins,  or  dates  make  a  pleasing 
variety. 

For  Stuffing  and  Trussing,  see  page  254.  Put  the  turkey 
on  a  rack  in  a  pan,  rub  well  with  butter,  and  dredge  with 
salt,  pepper,  and  flour.  Put  in  a  hot  oven,  and  when  the 
flour  is  browned  reduce  the  heat,  and  add  a  pint  of  water. 
Baste  with  butter  until  nicely  browned  ;  then  with  the  fat 
in  the  pan.  Baste  often,  and  dredge  with  salt  and  flour 
after  every  basting.  Allow  three  hours  for  an  eight-pound 
turkey.  Cook  till  the  legs  will  separate  from  the  body. 
Prepare  the  gravy  as  directed  above.  Garnish  the  tur- 
key with  parsley  or  celery  leaves  and  sausages  or  force-meat 
balls.  Serve  cranberry  sauce  or  currant  jelly  with  roast 
turkey. 


Roast   Chicken  257 


If  the  giblets  be  not  desired  in  the  gravy,  they  may  be 
boiled,  chopped  fine,  and  mixed  with  the  stuffing ;  or 
make  them  into  force-meat  balls,  with  an  equal  amount  of 
soft  bread  crumbs.  Moisten,  and  season  highly,  and  brown 
them  in  hot  butter. 

Boiled  or  Steamed  Turkey  or  Fowl. 

Clean ;  rub  well  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice,  and 
stuff  with  oyster  or  bread  stuffing.  It  is  better  without  the 
stuffing,  as  the  oysters  are  usually  over-done,  and  the 
same  flavor  may  be  obtained  from  an  o}Tster  sauce  served 
with  the  turkey.  Truss  the  legs  and  wings  close  to  the 
bod}' ;  pin  the  fowl  in  a  cloth  to  keep  it  whiter  and  preserve 
the  shape.  Put  into  boiling  salted  water.  Allow  twenty 
minutes  to  the  pound.  Cook  slowly  till  tender,  but  not 
long  enough  for  it  to  fall  apart.  Turkeys  are  much  nicer 
steamed  than  boiled.  Serve  with  oyster,  celery,  lemon, 
or  caper  sauce.  Garnish  with  a  border  of  boiled  rice  or 
macaroni,  and  pour  pail  of  the  sauce  over  the  fowj. 

Fowls  are  sometimes  stuffed  with  boiled  celery,  cut  into 
pieces  an  inch  long ;  or  with  .  macaroni  which  has  been 
boiled  and  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper. 

Roast  Chicken. 

Singe  ;  remove  the  pin  feathers,  oil  bag,  crop,  entrails, 
legs,  and  tendons.  Wipe,  stuff,  sew,  and  tie  or  skewer 
into  shape.  Place  it  on  one  side,  on  a  rack  in  a  dripping- 
pan,  without  water.  Dredge,  and  rub  all  over  with  salt, 
pepper,  soft  butter,  and  flour.  Put  chicken  fat  or  beef  drip- 
pings over  it  and  in  the  pan.  Roast  in  a  hot  oven,  with 
a  rack  under  the  pan.  When  the  flour  is  brown,  check 
the  heat,  baste  with  the  fat,  and  afterwards  with  one  third 
of  a  cup  of  butter,  melted  in  one  cup  of  hot  water.  When 
brown,  turn  the  other  side  up  ;  then  place  it  on  the  back, 
that  the  breast  may  be  browned.  Baste  often,  and  dredge 
with  flour  after  basting.  Add  more  water  if  needed. 
Bake  a  four-pound  chicken  an  hour  and  a  half,  or  till  the 

17 


258  The  Boston  Cook  BooJt. 

joints  separate  easily.  Lay  buttered  paper  over  it,  if  it 
brown  too  fast. 

Stuffing.  —  Moisten  one  cup  of  cracker  or  soft  bread  crumbs 
with  one  third  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter;  season  highly 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  thyme. 

Chestnut  Stuffing.  —  Shell  one  quart  of  large  chestnuts. 
Pour  on  boiling  water,  and  remove  the  inner  brown  skin. 
Boil  in  salted  water  or  stock  till  soft.  Mash  fine.  Take 
half  for  the  stuffing,  and  mix  with  it  one  cup  of  fine  cracker 
crumbs ;  season  with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoon- 
ful  of  pepper,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley. 
Moisten  with  one  third  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Profes- 
sional cooks  sometimes,  mix  a  little  apple  sauce,  flavored 
with  wine,  lemon,  and  sugar,  with  a  chestnut  stuffing. 

Chestnut  Sauce.  —  Remove  the  fat  from  the  dripping- 
pan  ;  add  nearly  a  pint  of  hot  water ;  thicken  with  flour 
which  has  been  cooked  in  brown  butter  ;  add  salt  and  pepper, 
and  the  remainder  of  the  chestnuts, 

Braised  Fowl. 

_  Prepare  the  same  as  for  roasting;  dredge  with  salt, 
pepper,  tind  flouT ,  and  brown  slightly  in  hot  butter  or 
chicken  fat  in  a  frying-pan.  Put  in  a  deep  pan ;  half 
cover  with  water.  Add  the  giblets,  one  onion,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  herbs  tied  in  a  bag.  Cover  with  a  tightly  fitting 
pan,  and  bake  till  tender,  basting  often.  Chop  the  gib- 
lets, thicken,  season,  and  strain  the  gravy  ;  add  the  giblets, 
and  pour  around  the  fowl. 

Chicken  Fricassee. 

Singe,  and  cut  the  chicken  at  the  joints,  in  pieces  for 
serving  Cover  with  boiling  water  ;  add  one  heaping  teaspoon- 
ful of  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Simmer  one 
hour,  or  till  tender,  reducing  the  water  to  nearly  a  pint. 
Remove  all  the  large  bones,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and 
flour,  and  brown  in  hot  butter.  Put  the  chicken  on  toast 
on  a  hot  platter.  Strain  the  liquor  and  remove  the  fat. 


Chicken  Curry.  259 


Add  to  the  liquor  one  cup  of  cream  or  milk,  and  heat  it* 
again.  Melt  one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  a  saucepan  ; 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  when  well  mixed  pour 
on  slowly  the  cream  and  chicken  liquor.  Add  salt,  pepper, 
Haifa  teaspoonful  of  celery  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice. 
Beat  one  e^ ;  pour  the  sauce  slowly  on  the  egg ;  stir  well, 
and  pour  over  the  chicken.  The  chicken  may^  be  browned 
before  cooking,  then  stewed,  and  a  brown  grav}T  made  b}* 
browning  the  butter  before  adding  the  flour.  Half  a  can 
of  mushrooms  may  be  added  to  improve  the  flavor,  letting 
them  simmer  in  the  sauce  five  minutes.  Arrange  the  body 
of  the  chicken  in  the  centre  of  the  dish,  with  the  wings  at 
the  top,  the  thighs  below,  and  the  ends  of  the  drumsticks 
crossed  at  the  tail. 

If  the  chicken  be  not  fried,  it  is  simpty  a  chicken  stew , 
and  dumplings  may  be  added,  or  not,  as  }'ou  prefer.  And 
if  put  into  a  deep  dish  with  a  rich  gravy,  made  as  for 
fricassee,  but  without  the  egg,  and  covered  with  a  rich 
crust  of  pastry  and  baked,  it  is  chicken  pie. 

• 
Chicken  Curry. 

Cut  the  chicken  at  the  joints,  and  remove  the  breast 
bones.  Wipe,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge  with 
flour,  and  brown  lightly  in  hot  butter.  Put  in  a  stewpan. 
Fiy  one  large  onion,  cut  in  thin  slices,  in  the  butter  left  in 
the  pan  till  colored,  but  not  browned.  Mix  one  large 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  one  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  curry  powder,  and  brown  them  in  the  but- 
ter. Add  slowty  one  cup  of  water  or  stock  and  one  cup  of 
strained  tomatoes,  or  one  sour  apple  chopped,  and  salt  and 
pepper  to  taste.  Pour  this  sauce  over  the  chicken,  and 
simmer  one  hour,  or  till  tender.  Add  one  ewp  of  hot  milk 
or  cream.  Boil  one  minute  longer,  and  sarve  with  a  bor- 
der of  boiled  rice. 

Rabbit,  veal,  and  lamb  may  be  curried  in  the  same 
way. 


260  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Broiled  Chicken. 

Singe,  and  split  a  young  spring  chicken  down  the  back. 
Break  the  joints  ;  remove  the  breastbone,  clean,  and  wipe 
with  a  wet  cloth.  Sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  rub 
well  with  soft  butter.  Place  in  a  double  gridiron,  and  broil 
twenty  minutes  over  a  clear  fire.  Spread  with  butter,  and 
serve  very  hot.  Or  cover  with  fine  bread  crumbs  and  bake 
in  a  hot  oven  half  an  hour.  Serve  with  Tartar  sauce. 

To  Carve.  —  Separate  the  legs  and  wings,  and  then  sep- 
arate the  breast  from  the  lower  part. 

Fried  Chicken. 

Singe ;  cut  at  the  joints ;  remove  the  breast  bones. 
Wipe  each  piece  with  a  clean  wet  cloth  ;  dredge  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  flour,  and  saute  them  in  hot  salt  pork  fat  till 
brown  and  tender,  but  not  burned.  Arrange  on  a  dish, 
with  boiled  cauliflower  or  potato  balls,  and  pour  a  white 
sauce  over  them.  Or  dip  in  egg  and  crumbs,  and  fry  iu 
deep  hoi  fat,  and  serve  with  tomato  sauce. 

Broiled  Fillets  of  Chicken. 

Remove  the  bone  from  the  breast  and  thighs.  Rub  the 
meat  with  butter  or  olive  oil ;  season,  and  cover  with  fine 
cracker  dust.  Broil  about  ten  minutes. 


Devilled  Chicken. 

Boil  a  chicken  until  tender  in  boiling  salted  water. 
When  cold,  cut  at  the  joints,  baste  with  soft  butter,  and 
broil  till  brown.  Or  cut  any  cold  boiled  or  roasted  chicken 
at  the  joints,  rub  with  salt  and  butter,  and  broil  till  warmed 
through.  Pour  hot  Tartar  sauce  over  them.  Or  make 
several  incisions  in  the  flesh,  and  rub  with  mustard  and 
cayenne  pepper  before  broiling. 


Geese,  Ducks.  261 


Boast  Goose. 

Singe,  remove  the  pin  feathers,  and  before  it  is  cut  or 
drawn,  wash  and  scrub  thoroughly  in  warm  soapsuds,  to 
open  and  cleanse  the  pores,  and  render  the  oil  more  easy 
to  be  extracted.  Then  draw,  as  directed  on  page  253. 
Wash  and  rinse  the  inside  in  clear  water,  and  wipe  dry. 
Stuff  with  masked  potatoes  highly  seasoned  with  onion, 
sage,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  with  equal  parts  of  bread  crumbs, 
chopped  apples,  and  boiled  onions,  seasoned  with  salt,  sage, 
and  pepper.  Sew  and  truss  ;  put  on  a  rack  in  a  pan,  and 
cover  the  breast  with  slices  of  fat  salt  pork.  Place  in  the 
oven  for  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  The  pork  fat  is 
quickly  drawn  out  by  the  heat,  flows  over  the  goose,  and 
aids  in  drawing  out  the  oil.  When  considerable  oil  is 
extracted,  take  the  pan  from  the  oven,  and  pour  off  all  the 
oil.  Remove  the  pork,  and  dredge  the  goose  with  flour, 
and  place  again  in  the  oven.  When  the  flour  is  browned, 
add  a  little  hot  water,  and  baste  often.  Dredge  with  flour 
after  basting.  Cook  until  brown  and  tender.  Make  a 
gravy  as  on  page  256.  Garnish  with  watercresses.  Serve 
with  apple  sauce. 

Roast  Ducks. 

Pick,  singe,  and  remove  the  crop,  entrails,  oil  bag,  legs, 
and  pinions.  Wipe,  truss,  dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  butter, 
and  flour.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty  minutes  if  liked 
rare,  or  thirty  minutes  if  preferred  well  done.  Serve  with 
olive  sauce  and  green  peas.  Geese  and  ducks  have  a  strong 
flavor,  and  are  improved  by  stuffing  the  craw  and  body 
with  apples  cored  and  quartered.  The  apples  absorb  the 
strong  flavor,  therefore  should  not  be  eaten.  Celery  and 
onions  are  also  placed  inside  the  duck,  to  improve  its 
flavor. 

Braised  Ducks. 

Ducks  that  are  tough  and  unfit  to  roast  are  improved 
b\r  being  braised  with  onions,  carrots,  and  turnips.  Or 
they  may  be  stewed,  and  served  with  canned  peas. 


262  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Larded  Grouse. 

Clean,  wipe,  lard  the  breast  and  legs,  and  truss.  Rub 
with  salt  and  soft  butter,  and  dredge  with  flour.  Roast 
twenty  minutes  in  a  quick  oven  if  liked  rare,  thirty  minutes 
if  well  done.  Serve  with  bread  sauce. 


Potted  Pigeons. 

Draw  and  clean.  Break  the  legs  just  above  the  feet ; 
leave  enough  below  the  joint  to  tie  down  to  the  tail. 
Wash  and  wipe.  If  old  and  tough,  cover  them  with  vine- 
gar, spiced  and  flavored  with  onion,  and  let  them  stand 
several  hours.  This  makes  them  tender.  Drain  and  wipe  ; 
stuff,  if  you  like,  with  cracker  crumbs  highly  seasoned  and 
moistened  with  butter.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  a&djlour. 
Fry  several  slices  of  salt  pork ;  cut  one  large  onion  fine, 
and  fry  in  the  salt  pork  fat.  Put  the  crisp  fat  in  the  steW- 
pan,  add  the  fried  onion,  then  brown  the  pigeons  all  over 
in  the  fat  left  in  the  pan.  Put  them  in  the  stewpan  ;  add 
boiling  water  or  stock  enough  to  half-  cover  them ;  add  a 
pinch  of  herbs  tied  in  a  bag.  Simmer  from  one  to  three 
hours,  or  till  the  pigeons  are  tender.  Remove  the  fat 
from  the  broth,  season  to  taste,  and  thicken  with  flour 
and  butter  cooked  together.  Strain  over  the  pigeons,  and 
serve  hot. 

Braised  Pigeons. 

Prepare  the  pigeons  as  for  potted  pigeons,  and  cook  in  a 
braising-pan.  Cook  spinach  (see  page  296)  ;  chop  it  fine, 
and  season.  Spread  the  spinach  on  slices  of  toast,  and 
lay  the  pigeons  on  the  spinach  one  on  each  slice.  Serve 
the  gravy  in  a  boat. 

Pigeons  Stuffed  with  Parsley.     (Miss  Ward.) 

Allow  one  pint  of  loose  parsley  for  each  pigeon.  Wash, 
remove  the  large  stems,  and  chop  very  fine,  adding  salt 


Birds.  263 

and  pepper  and  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  water  while 
chopping.  Stuff  the  pigeons  with  the  parsley ;  add  also 
the  heart  and  a  half -inch  cube  of  salt  pork  for  each  pigeon. 
Add  the  water  left  in  the  tray  to  that  in  the  stewpan, 
and  cook  as  in  the  preceding  rule. 

Roast  Birds, 

Draw,  and  wash  quickly ;  season  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Pin  a  thin  slice  of  salt  pork  on  the  breast.  Put  on  a  shal- 
low pan,  and  bake  in  a  hot  oven,  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes. 
Baste  often.  Serve  on  toast  with  currant  jetty  or  with 
bread  sauce.  Small  birds  may  be  baked  in  sweet  potatoes, 
or  if  large  cut  in  halves,  using  the  breast  only.  Cut  the 
potatoes  in  halves  lengthwise,  make  a  cavity  in  each 
half,  season  the  bird  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter;  fit 
it  into  the  potato,  put  the  other  half  over  it,  and  bake 
till  the  potatoes  are  soft.  Remove  the  string,  tie  with  a 
bright  ribbon,  and  serve  in  the  potatoes,  garnished  with 
parsley.  An  inviting  dish  to  serve  to  an  invalid. 

Small  birds  are  also  broiled  or  stewed. 

Quail. 

Quail  may  be  roasted,  broiled,  or  braised  ;  or  the  breasts 
only  may  be  removed  and  broiled.  Use  the  bones  and 
trimmings  to  make  stock  for  a  rich  sauce. 

Woodcock. 

Dress,  and  wipe  clean.  Dredge  inside  and  out  with  salt 
and  pepper ;  tie  the  legs  close  to  the  body,  skin  the  head 
and  neck,  and  tie  the  beak  under  the  wings.  Tie  a  piece 
of  bacon  over  the  breast,  and  fry  in  boiling  lard  two 
minutes ;  or  roast  in  the  oven,  and  serve  on  toast. 

Venison. 

Venison  is  one  of  the  most  easily  digested  meats.  It 
may  be  cooked  after  the  same  rules  as  mutton  or  beef.  It 


264  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

should  be  cooked  rare,  and  served  very  hot  with  currant 
jelly.  The  saddle,  or  loin,  is  the  choicest  cut  for  roasting 
or  for  steaks.  Steaks  are  also  cut  from  the  leg. 

Venison  steaks  should  be  broiled  the  same  as  beefsteaks, 
and  served  with  Maitre  d' Hotel  butter,  made  with  currant 
jelly  instead  of  lemon  juice.  The  cheaper,  tougher  parts 
of  venison  may  be  stewed  or  braised.  Venison  should  be 
wiped  carefully  before  cooking,  as  the  hairs  are  often  found 
clinging  to  the  meat. 

Rabbits  and  Squirrels. 

These  may  be  cooked  the  same  as  chickens,  —  stewed, 
fricasseed,  or  larded  and  baked. 


FIG.  83.    Birds  and  Spinach  on  Toast. 


Brunswick  Stew. 

Two  squirrels,  well  skinned  and  cleaned,  or  two  small 
chickens.  Put  them  into  a  large  kettle  with  two  quarts 
of  cold  water.  Add  one  slice  of  bacon,  two  quarts  of 
tomatoes,  six  large  potatoes  sliced  thin,  one  quart  of 
Lima  beans,  two  large  onions  sliced,  one  tablespoon  of  salt, 
and  half  a  teaspoon  of  pepper.  Let  it  stew  until  tender. 
Add  more  water  as  it  boils  away.  Add  six  ears  of  corn 
cut  from  the  cob,  cook  twenty  minutes  longer,  being  very 
careful  not  to  let  it  burn. 


Entrees.  265 


ENTREES  AND   MEAT  RECHAUFFE. 


Boned  Turkey  or  Chicken. 

BONE  the  turkey  as  directed  on  page  27. 

Stuffing  for  a  Hen  Turkey  weighing  Eight  Pounds.  — The 
meat  from  a  four-pound  chicken,  one  pound  of  raw,  lean 
veal,  one  cup  of  cracker  crumbs,  two  eggs,  boiling  stock  enough 
to  moisten,  salt,  pepper,  and  thyme  to  taste,  and  one  cup  of 
potted  ham  or  tongue. 

Disjoint  the  chicken ;  remove  the  skin,  tough  sinews, 
and  bones.  Cut  the  meat  from  the  thighs  and  breast  in 


Pw.  34    Boned  Turkey,  browned  and  served  like  a  Roast  Turkey. 

long  thin  strips,  lay  it  aside,  and  chop  all  the  remainder 
with  the  veal.  Do  not  use  any  salt  pork  unless  you  wish 
the  stuffing  to  taste  like  sausage  meat.  Add  the  cracker 
crumbs ;  make  it  quite  moist  with  hot  stock,  and  season 
to  taste.  Fill  the  legs  and  wings  of  the  turkey  with  the  force- 
meat. Put  the  fillets,  which  came  out  in  boning,  on  the 
skin  below  the  breast;  then  a  layer  of  force-meat  with 
a  little  of  the  tongue  here  and  there  ;  or  you  may  use  thin 
slices  of  boiled  tongue  or  ham.  Then  a  la}Ter  of  the  re- 
served meat  from  the  chicken,  and  force-meat  again.  Sew 
and  tie  into  the  natural  shape.  Or,  if  for  a  galantine,  turn 
the  legs  and  wings  inside  before  stuffing,  and  roll  up.  Sew 
tightly  in  a  cloth.  Put  the  bones  of  chicken  and  turkey 


266  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  all  the  trimmings  from  the  veal  in  a  kettle,  and  cover 
with  cold  water.  Steam  the  turkey  over  the  bones  three 
hours.  Remove  the  cloth,  dredge  with  salt  and  flour,  and 
bake  one  hour  or  until  nicely  browned.  Serve  cold,  and 
garnish  with  parsley,  sparkling  jelly,  carrots,  and  beets  cut 
into  fanc}T  shapes,  or  with  potato  balls.  Carve  in  slices 
across  the  breast. 

When  the  turkej^  is  to  be  moulded  in  jell}',  strain  the 
liquor  in  which  the  bones  were  boiled ;  remove  the  fat, 
clear,  and  stiffen  with  gelatine  as  directed  below.  Make  a 
brown  aspic  jelly  with  soup  stock.  Mould  in  the  dark 
jelly  and  garnish  with  the  light,  or  vice  versa. 

Stuffing  for  Boned  Chicken. — Use  more  veal,  omit  the 
chicken,  and  vary  the  amount  of  the  other  ingredients 


FIG.  35.     Boned  Chicken,  larded  and  baked. 

given  in  stuffing  for  turkey,  according  to  the  size  of  the 
fowl.  Lardoons  of  pork  may  be  inserted  all  over  the  top 
when  the  chicken  is  to  be  browned  in  the  oven. 

To  Mould  in  Aspic  Jelly.  —  Take  enough  stock  to  fill  the 
mould,  —  beef  if  for  dark  jelly,  and  veal  or  chicken,  if  for 
light.  Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  celery  seed,  herbs, 
lemon,  or  wine.  If  a  darker  shade  be  desired,  add  a  little 
caramel.  For  three  pints  of  stock  mix  the  whites  and  shells 
of  two  eggs  with  the  cold  stock  ;  add  one  box  of  Cox's  gela- 
tine which  has  been  soaked  in  one  cup  of  cold  water.  Put 
all  over  the  fire,  and  stir  till  hot.  Boil  till  a  thick  scum 
has  formed ;  remove  that,  and  strain  the  liquor  through  a 
fine  napkin. 

Pack  a  mould  in  a  pan  of  snow  or  broken  ice,  and  pour 
in  jelly  to  the  depth  of  half  an  inch.  When  hard,  garnish 


Ported  Turkey.  267 


mth  fancy  vegetables  of  different  colors,  slices  of  hard-boiled 

eggs,   Italian  paste,  rings  of  macaroni,  etc.     Fasten   each 

ornament  in   place  with  liquid  jelty,  and  when  hard  add 

enough  jelly  to  cover  all.     When  this  is  hard,  place  the 

meat,  or  whatever  you  have  to  mould,  in  the  centre,  being 

careful  not  to  let  it 

break  the  jelly.    Keep 

the  meat  in  place  with 

some  of  the  liquid  jel- 

\y,  apd  when  hard  add 

enough  jelly  to  fill  the 

mould.     If  to  be  dec-  FIG  36    Chicken  in  Jelly 

orated  on  the  side,  dip 

the  ornaments  in  the  liquid  jell}',  and  if  the  mould  be  icy 

cold,  they  will  adhere.     The  jelly  must  be  added  slowty. 

Keep  in  the  mould  in  a  cool  place  till  ready  to  serve. 

To  remove  it,  dip  the  mould  quickly  in  warm  (not  hot) 

water,  put  the  dish  over  it,  and  invert  dish  and  mould 

together.     Garnish  with  parsley  and  sparkling  jelly. 

Tongue,  boned  turkey  or  chicken,  birds,  moulds  of  different 
kinds  of  meat  audjish,  etc.,  may  be  served  in  jelly. 

Pressed  Chicken. 

An  Easy  Way  of  Preparing  Boneless  Chicken. — Boil  a 
fowl  in  as  little  water  as  possible  till  the  bones  slip  out 
and  the  gristly  portions  are  soft.  Remove  the  skin,  pick 
the  meat  apart,  and  mix  the  dark  and  white  meats.  Re- 
move the  fat,  and  season  the  liquor  highhr  with  salt  and 
pepper;  also  with  celery  salt  and  lemon  juice,  if  you  like. 
Boil  down  to  one  cupful,  and  mix  with  the  meat.  Butter 
a  mould,  and  decorate  the  bottom  and  sides  with  slices  of 
hard-boiled  eggs  ;  also  with  thin  slices  of  tongue  or-ham  cut 
into  round  or  fane}'  shapes.  Pack  the  meat  in,  and  set 
awa}~  to  cool  with  a  weight  on  the  meat.  When  ready  to 
serve,  dip  the  mould  in  warm  water,  and  turn  out  carefulh*. 
Garnish  with  parsley,  strips  of  lettuce  or  celery  leaves,  and 
radishes  or  beets. 


268  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Blanquette  of  Chicken. 

Make  one  cup  of  cream  sauce,  put  it  in  a  double  boiler, 
and  add  one  pint  of  cooked  chicken  cut  in  strips,  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  When  hot,  beat  the  yolks 
of  two  eggs ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  and  stir  into 
the  chicken.  Cook  two  minutes.  Serve  in  rice  or  potato 
border,  or  with  a  garnish  of  toast  points. 

Chicken  Pilau. 

Warm  one  pint  of  canned  chicken,  or*  cold  roast  or  boiled 
chicken,  in  one  pint  of  water  till  the  meat  is  very  tender. 
Skim  out  the  meat,  and  add  to  the  liquor  one  pint  of  strained 
tomatoes.  Season  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  jine  chopped 
onion,  and  curry  or  Chutney  sauce.  When  boiling,  add 
one  cup  of  well-washed  rice,  and  cook  twenty  minutes,  or 
till  the  rice  is  soft.  Add  the  pieces  of  chicken  and  half  a 
cup  of  butter  or  cream.  When  hot,  turn  out  on  a  platter s 
and  garnish  with  triangles  of  toast. 

Scalloped  Chicken. 

Take  equal  parts  of  cold  chicken,  boiled  rice  or  macaroni, 
and  tomato  sauce.  Put  in  layers  in  a  shallow  dish,  and 
cover  with  buffered  crumbs.  Bake  till  brown.  Cold  roast 
turkey,  using  stuffing  and  gravy,  may  be  prepared  in  the 
same  way. 

Chicken  Pie  for  Thanksgiving.     (Miss  A.  M.  Towne.) 

Two  chickens,  three  pints  of  cream,  one  pound  of  butter, 
flour  enough  to  make  a  stiff  crust.  Cut  the  chicken  at 
the  joints,  and  cook  in  boiling  salted  water  till  tender. 

Crust.  —  Three  pints  of  cream,  one  heaping  teaspoon ful  of 
9alt,  and  flour  to  mix  it  hard  enough  to  roll  out  easily. 

Line  a  deep  earthen  dish  having  flaring  sides  with  a 
thin  layer  of  paste.  Roll  the  remainder  of  the  paste  half 
un  inch  thick.  Cut  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  butter  into 


Chicken  Pie.  269 


small  pieces,  and  put  them  on  the  dough  quite  close  to- 
gether. Sprinkle  a  little  flour  over  the  butter,  and  roll 
the  paste  over  and  over.  Roll  out  again  half  an  inch  thick 
and  roll  up.  Cut  off  from  the  ends  of  the  roll,  turn  the 
pieces  over  and  roll  out  half  an  inch  thick  for  rims.  Wet 
the  paste  in  the  dish  with  milk,  and  lay  the  rims  round 
the  sides  of  the  dish.  Put  on  two,  three,  or  four  rims, 
showing  one  above  another,  the  inside  rim  the  highest. 
Wet  each  rim  to  make  it  adhere.  Fill  the  centre  with  the 
parboiled  chicken.  Take  out  some  of  the  larger  bones. 
Season  the  chicken  liquor  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  pour 
it  over  the  chicken  ;  use  enough  to  nearly  cover.  Cut  the 
remaining  quarter  of  butter  into  pieces  the  size  of  a  chest- 
nut, and  put  them  over  the  meat.  Roll  the  remainder  of 
the  crust  to  fit  the  top.  Make  a  curving  cut  in  the  crust 
and  turn  it  back,  that  the  steam  may  escape.  Bake  three 
hours  in  a  brick  oven.  If  baked  in  a  stove  oven,  put  on 
only  two  rims  of  crust  and  bake  two  hours. 

Chicken  Terrapin.     (Miss  Minot.'} 

Chop  one  cold  roast  chicken  and  one  parboiled  sweet- 
bread moderately  fine.  Make  one  cup  of  rich  cream  sauce, 
with  one  cup  of  hot  cream,  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  Then  put  in  the  chicken  and 
sweetbread.  Salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Let  it  heat  over 
hot  water  fifteen  minutes.  Just  before  serving  add  the 
yolks  of  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  on»  wineglass  of  sherry 
wine. 

Golfs  liver,  parboiled  till  tender,  and  cut  fine,  may  be 
prepared  in  the  same  way,  and  used  alone  or  with  cold 
chicken  or  veal. 

Chicken  Chartreuse. 

Chop  very  fine  nine  ounces,  or  a  heaping  cup,  of  cold 
cooked  chicken  ;  add  the  inside  of  two  sausages,  or  two  ounces 
of  lean,  cooked  ham,  chopped  fine,  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
powdered  bread  crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  caper s,  or  one 


2/o  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

iablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  lemon 
juice  or  vinegar,  a  speck  of  cayenne,  two  eggs,  well  beaten, 
and  enough  hot  soup  stock  to  make  it  quite  moist.  Add 
salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  the  amount  depending  upon  the 
seasoning  in  the  sausages.  The  sausages  may  be  omitted, 
and  a  larger  amount  of  chicken  used.  Butter  a  small 
mould,  and  pack  the  meat  in  closety  to  within  an  inch  ot 
the  top  to  allow  for  swelling.  Put  it  on  a  trivet  in  a  kettle, 
and  steam  three  hours.  If  no  uncooked  meat  be  used, 
one  hour  will  be  sufficient.  Cool  it  in  the  mould ;  when 
ready  to  serve,  dip  the  mould  quickly  into  warm  water 
and  loosen  the  meat  around  the  edges  with  a  thin  knife 
and  remove  the  mould.  It  may  be  served  plain  or 
moulded  in  jelly  (see  page  266). 

Salmis  of  Game. 

Cut  the  meat  from  cold  roasted  game  into  small  pieces. 
Break  up  the  bones  and  remnants,  cover  them  with  stock  or 
with  cold  water,  and  add  a  pinch  of  herbs,  two  cloves,  and 
two  peppercorns.  Boil  down  to  a  cupful  for  a  pint  of  meat. 
Fry  two  small  onions,  cut  fine,  in  two  tablespoonfuls  of  but- 
ter till  brown  ;  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  stir  till 
dark  brown.  Strain  the  liquor  in  which  the  bones  were 
boiled,  and  add  it  gradually  to  the  butter  and  flour.  Add 
more  salt  if  needed,  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  Worcestershire  sauce,  and  the  pieces  of 
meat.  Simmer  fifteen  minutes ;  add  six  or  eight  mush- 
rooms, smdaglass  of  claret,  if  }rou  like,  or  the  juice  of  a  sour 
orange.  Serve  very  hot  on  slices  of  fried  bread,  and  gar- 
nish with  fried  bread  and  parsley.  Or  serve  canned  peas 
in  the  centre,  with  the  meat  on  toast  around  the  edge. 

Beef  Olives,  or  Beef  Rolls.1 

Cut  thin  slices  from  cold  roast  beef,  two  and  a  half  by 
four  inches.  Chop  the  trimmings  and  fat,  allowing  one 

1  Olives  is  not  an  appropriate  name,  although  in  common  use. 


Beef  Roll*.  271 


tdblespoonful  of  the  chopped  mixture  for  each  slice.  Sea- 
son highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  herbs,  and  mix  with  one 
fourth  as  much  cracker  crumbs  as  meat.  Spread  this  on 
each  slice,  nearly  to  the  edge.  Roll  and  tie.  Dredge 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and  fry  brown  in  drippings  or 
salt  pork  fat ;  put  in  a  stewpan,  and  make  a  brown  gravy 
by  adding  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour  to  the  fat  left  in  the 
pan,  and  when  brown  pour  on  one  pint  of  hot  water.  Sea- 
son with  salt  and  pepper ;  pour  over  the  rolls  and  simmer  till 
they  are  tender.  Remove  the  strings,  place  the  rolls  on  a 
platter,  season  the  gravy  and  pour  it  over  them. 

Rolls  may  be  made  in  the  same  way  by  using  raw  lean 
meat  from  the  round,  cut  in  small  thin  slices  ;  pound  it  to 
break  the  fibre,  and  trim  into  shape.  Rolls  may  be  made 
of  veal  or  thin  slices  of  liver  (parboil  and  remove  the  skin 
before  using  the  liver) .  If  there  be  any  of  the  chopped 
mixture  left,  make  it  into  round  or  oval  balls,  roll  in 
crumbs,  then  in  egg,  and  again  in  crumbs ;  and  brown  in 
the  oven  or  fry  iufat. 

Beef  Rouktte.  —  Take  a  large  thin  slice  of  meat  from 
the  round,  or  anjr  tough  part ;  pound  it  enough  to  break 
the  fibre,  and  trim  into  rectangular  shape.  Season  and 
spread  with  a  stuffing ;  roll,  tie,  and  cook  as  directed  for 
Beef  Rolls.  Serve  hot  with  a  gravy  ;  or  cold,  cut  into  thin 
slices. 

Fricadilloes,  or  Meat  Balls,  Sausages,  or  Rolls. 

Chop  the  meat  fine ;  add  a  slice  of  onion  chopped  fine, 
and  if  the  meat  be  lean,  add  one  or  two  slices  of  bacon  ;  sea- 
son highly  with  salt,  pepper,  sage,  thyme,  lemon  juice,  and 
parsley  ;  add  one  fourth  as  much  bread  crumbs  or  boiled  rice 
as  you  have  meat.  Moisten  with  beaten  egg  and  hot 
water  or  stock  if  needed  ;  shape  like  a  ball,  egg,  or  cylinder. 
Brown  them  in  drippings  or  butter  in  a  ftying-pan,  or  roll 
them  in  crumbs,  egg,  and  crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  hot 
deep  fat. 


272  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Frizzled  Beef. 

Half -a  pound  of  smoked  beef,  cut  in  thin  shavings. 
Pour  boiling  water  over  it,  and  let  it  stand  ten  minutes. 
Drain  and  heat  it  in  one  tabkspoonful  of  hot  butter,  to  curl 
or  frizzle  it.  Add  one  cup  of  hot  cream.  Or  make  a  cup 
of  thin  white  sauce  with  one  cup  of  milk,  one  tablespoonftd 
of  butter,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour.  Pour  it  over 
one  well-beaten  egg,  add  the  beef  and  a  little  pepper,  and 
serve  at  once.  Or  frizzle  it,  and  mix  it  with  two  or  three 
poached  eggs. 

Meat  Pie. 

Cut  cold  cooked  meat  into  small  thin  slices  or  into  half- 
inch  cubes,  remove  all  the  gristle  and  fat  except  the 
crisped  outside  fat,  put  into  a  baking-dish,  and  cover 
with  the  meat  gravy  or  with  tomato  or  brown  sauce  piquante. 
Spread  a  crust  of  mashed  potatoes  over  the  meat,  brush 
with  beaten  egg  or  sprinkle  with  cracker  crumbs,  and  cook 
twenty  minutes  or  till  brown. 

Meat  Porcupine. 

Chop  fine  some  lean  cooked  veal,  chicken,  or  lamb;  add 
one  fourth  its  amount  of  cracker  or  bread  crumbs,  or  mashed 

potato,  and  a  small 
quantity  of  chopped 
bacon  ;  season  highly 
with  salt,  pepper,  cay- 
enne, and  lemon  juice  ; 
moisten  with  beaten 
eqq  and  stock  or  water 

FIG.  37.    Meat  Porcupine.  . 

enough  to  shape  it. 

Mould  it  into  an  oval  loaf,  and  put  into  a  shallow  pan  well 
greased.  Cut  strips  of  fat  bacon,  one  fourth  of  an  inch 
wide  and  one  inch  long.  Make  holes  in  the  loaf  with  a 
small  skewer,  insert  the  strips  of  bacon,  leaving  the  ends 
out  half  an  inch,  and  push  the  meat  up  firmly  round  the 


Hash.  273 

bacon.  Bake  till  brown.  The  bacon  will  baste  the  meat 
sufficiently. 

Ragout  of  Cooked  Meat. 

v  Cut  one  pint  of  cold  meat  into  half-inch  dice  ;  remove  the 
fat,  bone,  and  gristle.  Put  the  meat  in  a  stewpan ;  cover 
with  boiling  water,  and  simmer  slowly  two  or  three  hours, 
or  till  very  tender  ;  then  add  half  a  can  of  mushrooms,  cut 
fine,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Madeira  wine,  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Wet  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  to  a  smooth  paste 
with  a  little  cold  water ;  stir  it  into  the  boiling  liquor ; 
add  a  teaspoonful  of  caramel,  if  not  brown  enough.  Cook 
ten  minutes,  and  serve  plain  or  in  a  border  of  mashed 
potatoes.  The  seasoning  may  be  varied  by  using  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  pepper, 
or  half  a  tumbler  of  currant  jetty,  and  salt  to  taste. 

Hash. 

Equal  parts  of  meat  and  potatoes,  or  two  of  potatoes  to 
one  of  meat.  Remove  all  the  bone,  gristle,  and  skin,  and 
have  only  one-fourth  part  fat  meat.  Chop  very  fine,  and 
mix  well  with  the  potatoes,  which  should  be  hot  and  well 
mashed.  Season  to  taste  with  pepper  and  salt.  Put  in 
enough  hot  water  to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  spider ;  add 
one  large  tablespoonful  of  butter.  When  the  butter  is  melted, 
add  the  hash,  and  let  it  simmer  till  it  has  absorbed  the 
water  and  formed  a  brown  crust.  Do  not  stir  it.  Fold 
like  an  omelet.  Use  corned  meat  or  roast  beef.  If  the 
potatoes  be  cold,  chop  them  with  the  meat. 

Sandwiches. 

Chop  very  fine  some  cooked  ham  or  cold  corned  beef  01 
tongue  with  one-fourth  part  fat.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  of  dry 
mustard  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt  with  cold  water  to  a  stifl 
paste ;  add  to  it  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  butter  creamed. 
Cut  stale  bread  in  very  thin  slices ;  spread  with  the  mus- 
tard and  butter  paste,  then  with  the  ham.  Put  two  slices 
together,  and  cut  into  rectangular  pieces. 

18 


274  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Scalloped  Mutton. 

Remove  the  fat  and  skin  from  cold  roast  mutton  ;  cut  the 
meat  in  small  thin  slices  ;  season  it  with  salt  and  pepper. 
Butter  a  shallow  dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  bread  or  cracker 
crumbs,  then  a  layer  of  meat,  then  oysters,  strained  and 
seasoned,  tomato  or  brown  gravy,  then  crumbs,  meat,  etc., 
having;  on  the  top  a  thick  layer  of  crumbs  moistened  in 
one  third  of  a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Cold  boiled  macaroni, 
cut  into  inch  pieces,  may  be  used  in  place  of  oysters. 

Casserole  of  Rice  and  Meat. 

Boil  one  cup  of  rice  till  tender.  Chop  very  fine  half  a 
pound  of  any  cold  meat ;  season  highly  with  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  one  saltspoonful  of 
celery  salt,  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  onion,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and  one  saltspoonful  each  of 
thyme  and  marjoram.  Add  one  beaten  egg,  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  fine  cracker  crumbs,  and  moisten  with  hot  water 
or  stock  enough  to  pack  it  easily.  Butter  a  small  mould, 
line  the  bottom  and  sides  half  an  inch  deep  with  the  rice, 
pack  in  the  meat,  cover  closely  with  rice,  and  steam 
forty-five  minutes.  Loosen  it  around  the  edge  of  the 
mould ;  turn  it  out  upon  a  platter,  and  pour  tomato  sauce 
over  it. 

Casserole  of  Mock  Sweetbreads  with  Potato  Border. 

One  pound  of  uncooked  lean  veal  cut  into  half-inch  cubes, 
and  cooked  with  one  slice  of  onion  in  boiling  salted  water 
till  tender,  then  put  into  cold  water  to  whiten.  Make  one 
cup  of  white  sauce,  and  season  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt, 
one  saltspoonful  of  celery  salt,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of 
pepper.  Put  the  veal  and  half  a  cup  of  mushrooms,  cut 
into  quarters,  into  the  sauce.  Heat  over  hot  water 
five  minutes,  or  till  the  meat  and  mushrooms  are  hot 
Remove  from  the  fire  ;  add  quickly  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon 
juice  and  one  well-beaten  egg ;  serve  inside  a  potato  border \ 
or  on  toast  garnished  with  toast  points. 


Veal  Loaf.  27$ 


Potato  Border.  —  One  quart  of  mashed  and  seasoned 
potatoes  shaped  into  a  mound  like  a  wall  on  the  edge  of 
a  platter.  Brush  over  with  beaten  white  or  yolk  of  an  egg, 
and  brown  slight^.  Fill  with  any  kind  of  cooked  meat  or 
fish  warmed  in  a  white  or  brown  sauce. 

Veal  Birds. 

Slices  of  veal  from  the  loin,  cut  very  thin.  Wipe,  re- 
move the  bones,  skin,  and  fat,  and  pound  till  one  fourth 
of  an  inch  thick.  Trim  into  pieces  two  and  a  half  by 
four  inches.  Chop  the  trimmings  fine  with  one  square 
inch  of  fat  salt  pork  for  each  bird.  Add  half  as  much  fine 
cracker  crumbs  as  you  have  meat ;  season  highly  with  salt, 
pepper,  thyme,  lemon,  cayenne,  and  onion.  Moisten  with 
one  egg  and  a  little  hot  water.  Spread  the  mixture  on  each 
slice  nearly  to  the  edge,  roll  up  tightly,  and  tie  or  fasten 
with  skewers.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour ;  fry 
them  slowly  in  hot  butter  till  a  golden  brown,  but  not  dark 
or  burned.  Then  half  cover  with  cream,  and  simmer 
fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  till  tender.  Remove  the 
strings,  and  serve  on  toast ;  pour  the  cream  over  them  ;  gar- 
nish with  points  of  toast  and  lemon.  If  the  veal  be  tough, 
dip  in  olive  oil  before  spreading  with  the  stuffing. 

Melton  Veal. 

Take  any  cold  veal,  either  roasted  or  boiled  ;  chop  it  fine, 
and  season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon  juice ;  add  two  or 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  cracker  crumbs,  and  moisten  with  soup 
ttock  or  hot  water.  Take  one  third  as  much  finely  chopped 
ham  as  of  veal ;  season  with  mustard  and  cayenne  ;  add  one 
tablespoonful  of  cracker  crumbs,  and  moisten  with  hot  stock 
or  water.  Butter  a  mould,  and  line  it  with  slices  of  hard- 
boiled  egg.  Put  in  the  two  mixtures  irregularly,  so  that 
when  cut  it  will  have  a  mottled  appearance ;  press  in 
closely,  and  steam  three-quarters  of  an  hour.  Set  away 
to  cool ;  remove  from  the  mould,  and  slice  before  serving. 

This  is  an  excellent  dish  for  lunch  or  tea,  and  is  a  con 


276  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

venient  waj'  of  using  pieces  of  veal  that  would  not  other- 
wise be  utilized. 

Veal  Loaf. 

Parboil  two  pounds  of  lean  veal.  Chop  fine  with  one 
fourth  of  a  pound  of  salt  pork  or  bacon  ;  add  four  butter 
crackers,  pounded,  two  eggs,  well  beaten,  two  teaspoonfuh 
of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  half  a  saltspoonful  ol 
nutmeg  or  mace.  Moisten  with  the  meat  liquor,  mould 
into  an  oval  loaf,  and  put  into  a  shallow  tin  pan.  Add 
a  little  of  the  water  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled.  Bake 
till  quite  brown,  basting  often.  Serve  hot  or  cold,  cut  in 
slices.  Raw  veal  may  be  used  in  the  same  way,  baking 
it  two  hours  or  more. 

No.  2.  —  Select  a  knuckle  of  veal,  or  any  bony  piece  that 
has  a  large  proportion  of  gelatine.  Cut  in  small  pieces,  and 
remove  any  fragments  of  bone.  Cover  with  cold  water, 
boil  quickly,  skim,  and  add  one  onion,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Let  it  simmer  till  the  meat 
slips  from  the  bones,  the  gristly  portions  are  dissolved, 
and  the  liquor  reduced  to  one  cupful.  Remove  the  meat, 
pick  out  all  the  bones,  strain  the  liquor,  and  season  highly 
with  salt,  lemon  juice,  and  pepper,  and  slightly  with  sage  or 
thyme.  Chop  or  pick  the  meat  apart;  add  two  or  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  cracker  and  the  meat  liquor  ;  mix 
well  and  put  into  a  bread  pan.  Put  it  in  a  cool  place,  and 
when  hard  serve  in  thin  slices.  The  gelatine  in  the  meat 
liquor  will  harden,  and  hold  the  meat  together  without 
pressure. 

Meat  Souffld. 

Make  one  cup  of  cream  sauce,  and  season  with  chopped 
parsley  and  onion  juice.  Stir  one  cup  of  chopped  meat 
(chicken,  fresh  tongue,  veal,  or  lamb)  into  the  sauce. 
When  hot,  add  the  beaten  yolks  of  two  eggs;  cook  one  min- 
ute, and  set  away  to  cool.  When  cool,  stir  in  the  whites, 
beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  a  buttered  dish  about  twenty  min- 
utes, and  serve  immediately.  If  for  lunch,  serve  with  a 
mushroom  sauce. 


Potting.  277 


Potting. 

Chop  and  pound  to  a  paste  any  fragments  of  cooked 
ham,  tongue,  beef ,  poultry,  game,  orjish.  With  ham  use  a 
quarter  part  fat.  Remove  all  gristle  and  skin,  and  pound 
till  free  from  an}'  fibre  and  reduced  to  a  paste.  Season 
highly  with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and  made  mustard,  and 
moisten  with  a  little  melted  butter  (except  ham,  which  has 
fat  enough) .  Pack  closely  in  small  stone  or  earthen  jars. 
Put  the  jars  in  a  steamer,  and  heat  for  half  an  hour.  Then 
press  the  meat  down  again,  and  cover  with  hot  melted 
butter.  This  will  keep  some  time,  and  may  be  served  in 
slices  or  used  for  sandwiches.  Ham  and  tongue  may  be 
mixed  with  veal  or  chicken.  Beef,  game,  and  fish  are" 
better  alone. 

Potted  Liver. 

Braise  a  calf's  or  lamb's  liver  in  rich,  highly  seasoned 
stock.  When  tender,  cut  fine  and  pound  to  a  paste,  add- 
ing enough  of  the  strained  liquor  in  which  it  was  cooked  to 
moisten  it ;  add  half  a  cup  of  butter,  melted  and  strained. 
Rub  all  through  a  sieve ;  pack  in  jars  and  pour  melted 
butter  over  the  top? 

Ragout  of  Lamb's  or  Calf  s  Liver. 

Boil  till  tender.  Cut  in  thin  round  slices.  Make  a  rich 
brown  sauce ;  season  with  spices  and  wine.  Stew  the  liver 
in  it  till  hot,  and  serve  at  once.  Garnish  with  alternate 
slices  of  lemon  and  hard-boiled  eggs. 

Croquettes. 

These  may  be  made  of  any  kind  of  cooked  meat,  fish, 
oysters,  rice,  hominy,  and  many  kinds  of  vegetables,  or 
from  a  mixture  of  several  ingredients.  When  mixed  with 
a  thick  white  sauce  (see  page  278),  which  adds  venr 
much  to  the  delicacy  of  meat  or  fish  croquettes,  less  meat 
is  required.  The  sauce  is  a,  stiff  paste  when  cold,  and 
being  mixed  with  the  meat  or  fish  the  croquettes  may  be 


278  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

handled  and  shaped  perfectly,  and  when  cooked  will  be 
soft  and  creamy  inside. 

To  Shape  a  Croquette.  —  Croquettes  may  be  shaped  into 
rolls,  or  ovals,  or  like  pears,  with  a  bit  of  parsley  or  a 
clove  in  the  end  to  represent  the  stem.  Take  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  the  cold  mixture,  and  shape  into  a  smooth  ball.  If 
the  mixture  stick,  wet  the  palms  of  the  hands  slightly. 
Give  the  ball  a  gentle,  rolling  pressure  between  the  palms 
till  slightly  cylindrical  ;  then  roll  it  lightly  in  the  crumbs, 
clasp  it  gently  in  the  hand,  and  flatten  one  end  on  the 
board.  Turn  the  hand  over,  and  flatten  the  opposite  end. 
Place  the  croquette  on  a  broad  knife,  and  roll  it  in  beaten 
egg.  With  a  spoon  dip  the  egg  over  the  croquette,  drain 
*on  the  knife,  and  roll  again  in  the  crumbs.  Fry  in  deep 
hot  fat  (see  page  15).  Drain  on  paper. 

In  rolling  any  kind  of  croquettes,  if  the  mixture  be  too 
soft  to  be  handled  easity,  stir  in  enough  fine  cracker  dust 
to  stiffen  it,  but  never  add  any  uncooked  material  like 
flour,  nor  the  dried  bread  crumbs  used  in  rolling,  as  thosi 
will  make  the  croquettes  too  stiff. 

Thick  Cream  Sauce  (for  Croquettes  and  Patties). 


1  pint  hot  cream. 

2  even  tablespoonfuls  butter. 

4  heaping  tablespoonfuls  flour,  or 
2  heaping  tablesp.  cornstarch. 


%  teaspoonful  salt. 
^3  saltspoonful  white  pepper. 
^2  teaspoonful  celery  salt. 
A  few  grains  of  cayenne. 


Scald  the  cream.  Melt  the  butter  in  a  granite  sauce- 
pan. When  bubbling,  add  the  dry  cornstarch.  Stir  till 
well  mixed.  Add  one  third  of  the  cream,  and  stir  as  it 
boils  and  thickens.  Add  more  cream,  and  boil  again. 
When  perfectly  smooth,  add  the  remainder  of  the  cream. 
The  sauce  should  be  ver}r  thick,  almost  like  a  drop  batter. 
Add  the  seasoning,  and  mix  it  while  hot  with  the  meat  or 
fish.  For  croquettes,  one  beaten  egg  may  be  added  just  as 
the  sauce  is  taken  from  the  fire  ;  but  the  croquettes  are 
whiter  and  more  creamy  without  the  egg.  For  patties, 
warm  the  meat  or  fish  in  the  sauce,  and  use  the  egg  or  not 
as  you  please. 


Croquettes.  279 


Chicken  Croquettes.  —  Half  a  pound  of  chicken  chopped 
very  fine,  and  seasoned  with  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  celery  salt,  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of 
cayenne  pepper,  one  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  few 
drops  of  onion  juice,  one  teaspoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  Juice.  Make  one  pint  of  very  thick 
cream  sauce  (see  page  278).  When  thick,  add  one  beaten 
egg,  and  mix  the  sauce 
with  the  chicken,  us- 
ing only  enough  to 
make  it  as  soft  as  can 
be  handled.  Spread 
on  a  shallow  plate 
to  cool.  Shape  into 

rolls.        Roll      in     Jine  FIG-  38.    Chicken  Croquettea 

breadcrumbs,  then  dip 

in  beaten  egg,  then  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry  one  minute  in 
smoking  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  with  a  thin  cream 
sauce.  Many  prefer  to  cut  the  chicken  into  small  dice. 
If  this  be  done,  use  less  of  the  sauce,  or  the  croquettes 
will  be  difficult  to  shape.  The  white  meat  of  chicken  will 
absorb  more  sauce  than  the  dark.  Mushrooms,  boiled 
rice,  sweetbreads,  calf  s  brains,  or  veal  may  be  mixed  with 
chicken.  Cold  roast  chicken,  chopped  fine,  may  be  mixed 
with  the  stuffing,  moistened  with  the  gravy,  and  shaped 
into  croquettes. 

Veal  Croquettes.  —  Chop  cold  veal  fine  ;  season  highly 
with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  onion  juice,  celery  salt,  and  pars- 
ley. If  you  like,  add  half  the  amount  of  oysters,  parboiled 
and  drained.  Moisten  with  beaten  egg  and  white  sauce. 
Shape  into  rolls.  Roll  in  Jine  bread  crumbs,  egg,  and 
crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat. 

Oyster  Croquettes.  — Parboil  and  drain  one  pint  of  oysters. 
Cut  them  into  quarters,  and  mix  with  cream  sauce  enough  to 
hold  them  together.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Shape, 
roll  in  crumbs,  then  in  egg,  then  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry. 

Sweetbread  Croquettes.  —  One  parboiled  sweetbread,  half 
a  can  of  mushrooms,  chopped  fine,  and  half  a  cup  of  warm 


280  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

boiled  rice.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper,  and 
moisten  with  hot  thick  cream  sauce  until  soft  enough  to 
be  handled.  When  cool,  shape,  roll  in  crumbs,  then  in  egg, 
and  again  in  crumbs,  and  fry.  Calfs  brains  may  be 
parboiled  and  mixed  with  sweetbreads  or  chicken  for 
croquettes. 

Lobster  Croquettes.  —  One  pint  of  lobster  meat,  cut  fine 
Season  with  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  mus- 
tard, and  a  little  cayenne,  and  moisten  with  one  cup  of 
thick  cream  sauce.  Cool,  and  shape  into  rolls.  Roll  in 
crumbs,  egg,  and  crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  smoking  hot  fat. 
Drain  on  paper. 

Lobster  Cutlets.  — Prepare  the  lobster  as  for  croquettes, 
and  spread  it  half  an  inch  thick  on  a  platter.  Cut  into 
the  shape  of  cutlets.  Roll  in  crumbs,  egg,  and  crumbs  again. 
Fry  in  smoking  hot  fat.  Drain,  and  serve  with  a  claw  to 
represent  the  bone. 

Salmon,  or  any  fish  croquettes  or  cutlets  are  made  in 
the  same  way. 

Clam  Croquettes.  —  Steam  the  clams.  Remove  the  shells, 
thin  skin,  black  end,  and  the  dark  substance  from  the  soft 
part.  Cut  the  "leather  straps,"  with  the  scissors,  into 
small  bits.  Mix  these  and  the  soft  part  with  a  thick  cream 
sauce,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  shape  into  rolls. 
Roll  in  fine  bread  crumbs,  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  roll  in 
crumbs  again.  Fry  in  smoking  hot  lard. 

Potato  Croquettes.  —  One  pint  of  hot  mashed  potatoes,  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a 
speck  of  cayenne,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  celery  salt,  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice,  and  the  yolk 
of  one  egg.  Mix  all  but  the  egg,  and  beat  until  very 
light.  When  slightly  cool,  add  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  and 
mix  well.  Rub  through  a  sieve  and  add  one  teaspoonful  of 
chopped  parsley.  Shape  into  smooth  round  balls,  then  into 
rolls.  Roll  in  fine  bread  crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  egg, 
then  roll  in  crumbs  again.  Fry  in  smoking  hot  lard  one 
minute.  Drain  and  serve  in  the  form  of  a  pyramid. 

Oyster  Plant  Croquettes.  —  Scrape,  boil,  mash,  and  season 


Sweet   Croquettes.  281 

the  O}Tster  plant.  Shape  into  rolls.  Roll  in  crumbs,  dip  iu 
egg,  and  again  in  crumbs,  and  fry  as  usual. 

Prepare  parsnips  in  the  same  way. 

Turkish  Croquettes.  —  Stew  half  a  can  of  tomatoes  fifteen 
minutes  with  one  slice  each  of  onion,  carrot,  and  turnip,  one 
teaspoonful  of  herbs,  one  sprig  of  parsley,  two  cloves,  two  pep- 
percorns, one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  saUspoonful  of  pep- 
per. Rub  through  a  strainer.  Take  one  cup  of  the  strained 
tomatoes,  one  cup  of  brown  soup  stock,  season  nighty,  and 
when  boiling  add  one  scant  cup  of  uncooked  rice.  Cook 
till  the  liquor  is  absorbed.  Add  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of 
butter,  and  steam  it,  or  cook  on  the  back  of  the  stove  until 
the  rice  is  soft.  Add  one  beaten  egg  and  a  little  cream 
sauce,  or  thick  tomato  sauce,  using  enough  to  make  it  quite 
moist.  When  cool,  shape  into  rolls.  Roll  in  fine  bread 
crumbs,  then  in  egg,  then  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry  in  smoking 
hot  fat.  Sometimes  it  is  better  to  parboil  the  rice  for  five 
minutes,  as  it  is  more  difficult  to  soften  it  in  stock  than  in 
clear  water. 

Sweet  Rice  Croquettes.  —  Steam  one  scant  cup  of  well- 
washed  rice  in  one  pint  of  boiling  water,  or  milk  and  water, 
thirty  minutes,  or  till  very  soft.  Add,  while  hot,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  the  well- 
beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  and  a  little  hot  milk,  if  it  need  more 
moisture.  When  cool,  shape  into  small  ovals,  roll  in 
crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry.  Or,  after 
shaping,  press  the  thumb  into  the  centre  of  each,  and  put 
in  two  boiled  raisins  or  candied  cherries,  or  half  a  teaspoonful 
oi' jelly  or  marmalade.  Close  the  rice  over  the  centre,  roll 
in  crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  crumbs  again,  and  fry. 

Savory  Rice  Croquettes.  —  One  pint  of  cold  boiled  rice 
warmed  in  the  double  boiler  with  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls 
of  milk.  When  soft,  add  one  egg,  well  beaten,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  fourth  of  a 
saltspoonful  of  white  pepper,  a  few  grains  of  cayenne,  anc[ 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  fine  chopped  parsley.  Shape, 
roll,  and  fry  as  usual. 

Rice  or  Macaroni  Croquettes.  —  One  pint  <jf  cold  boiler 


282  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

rice  or  macaroni  or  spaghetti.  Heat,  and  moisten  with  a 
little  thick  white  sauce;  add  the  beaten  yolk  of  one  egg,  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  grated  cheese ,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste. 
Cool,  shape,  roll  in  crumbs,  dip  in  egg,  roll  in  crumbs  again, 
and  fry. 

Hominy  Croquettes.  —  Warm  one  pint  of  cooked  hominy  in 
one  or  two  tablespoonfuls  of  hot  milk  ;  add  the  beaten  yolk  of 
orae  e^,  and  saft  to  taste.  Cool,  shape,  roll,  and  fry. 

Creme  Frete.  —  Boil  one  pint  of  milk  with  an  inch  stick 
of  cinnamon.  Beat  together  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  two  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cornstarch,  one  tablespoonful  of  flour,  the  #0/&s 
of  tfAree  eggs,  a,  quarter  of  a  cup  of  coW  /w7&,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  saft.  Pour  the  boiling  milk  on  the  mixture,  and 
stir  well.  Strain  into  the  double  boiler,  and  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  stirring  often.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  butter  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Pour  into  a  buttered  bread  pan 
about  one  inch  deep,  and  set  awa}T  to  cool.  When  very 
hard,  sprinkle  a  bread  board  with  fine  bread  crumbs.  Turn 
the  cream  out  on  it,  and  cut  into  strips  two  and  a  half 
inches  long  and  one  inch  wide,  or  in  squares  or  diamonds. 
Roll  these  in  crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in  crumbs, 
and  fry  brown  in  boiling  lard.  Sprinkle  sugar  over  them, 
and  serve  hot. 


Welsh  Rarebit. 


^  pound  rich  cream  cheese. 
%  cup  cream  or  milk. 
1  teaspoonful  mustard. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 


A  few  grains  of  cayenne. 

legg. 

1  teaspoonful  butter. 

4  slices  toast. 


Break  the  cheese  in  small  pieces,  or  if  hard  grate  it. 
Put  it  with  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Toast  the  bread, 
and  keep  it  hot.  Mix  the  mustard,  salt,  and  pepper  ;  add 
the  egg,  and  beat  well.  When  the  cheese  is  melted,  stir 
in  the  egg  and  butter,  and  cook  two  minutes,  or  until  it 
thickens  a  little,  but  do  not  let  it  curdle  Pour  it  over  the 
toast.  Many  use  ale  instead  of  cream. 

Cheese  Souffle.  —  Put  two  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  in  a 
saucepan ;  add  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  flour ;  when 


Canapees.  283 


smooth,  add  half  a  cup  of  milk,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne.  Cook  two  minutes.  Add  the 
yolks  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  and  one  cup  of  grated  cheese. 
Set  away  to  cool.  When  cold,  add  the  whites,  beaten  to 
a  stiff  froth.  Turn  into  a  buttered  dish  and  bake  twenty- 
five  or  thirty  minutes.  Serve  immediately. 

Crackers  a  la  Creme.  —  Split  butter  crackers,  and  spread 
with  butter,  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  and  cheese  if  you  like. 
Put  them  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish,  cover  with  milk,  and 
bake  thirt}'  minutes.  Omit  the  mustard,  pepper,  and  cheese, 
prepare  in  the  same  way,  and  it  is  called  Cracker  Brewis. 

Sardine  Canapes.  —  Mix  the  yolks  of  hard-boiled  eggs 
with  an  equal  amount  of  sardines  rubbed  to  a  paste  ;  season 
with  lemon  juice,  and  spread  on  thin  slices  of  delicate  toast- 
Put  two  pieces  together,  and  cut  in  narrow  strips. 

Turkish  Pilaf. 

One  cup  of  stewed  and  strained  tomatoes,  one  cup  of 
stock,  seasoned  highly  with  salt,  pepper,  and  minced  onion. 
When  boiling,  add  one  cup  of  well-washed  rice  ;  stir  lightly 
with  a  fork  until  the  liquor  is  absorbed,  then  add  half  a 
cup  of  butter.  Set  on  the  back  of  the  stove  or  in  a  double 
boiler,  and  steam  twenty  minutes.  Remove  the  cover, 
stir  it  lightly,  cover  with  a  towel,  and  let  the  steam 
escape.  Serve  as  a  vegetable,  or  as  a  border  for  curry 
or  fricassee. 

No.  2.  —  Prepare  as  in  the  preceding  receipt.  Add 
with  the  butter  one  cup  of  cooked  meat  (lamb,  veal,  or 
chicken),  cut  into  half-inch  pieces  and  shredded  very  fine. 
Serve  as  an  entree. 

Sour  Milk  Cheese  (sometimes  called  Dutch,  Curd,  or 
Cottage  Cheese). 

1  quart  thick  sour  milk.  1  saltspoonful  salt 

1  teaspoonful  butter.  1  tablespoonful  cream. 

Place  the  milk  in  a  pan  on  the  back  of  the  stove,  and 
scald  it  until  the  curd  has  separated  from  the  whey. 


284  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Spread  a  strainer  cloth  over  a  bowl,  pour  in  the  milk, 
lift  the  edges  of  the  cloth,  and  draw  them  together ;  drain 
or  wring  quite  dry.  There  will  be  but  half  or  two  thirds 
of  a  cup  of  curd,  but  it  is  worth  saving.  It  is  the  flesh- 
forming  or  nutritive  part  of  the  milk.  Put  it  in  a  small 
bowl,  with  the  butter,  salt,  and  cream  ;  mix  it  to  a  smooth 
paste  with  a  spoon.  Take  a  teaspoonful,  and  roll  in  the  hand 
into  a  smooth  ball.  It  should  be  quite  moist,  or  the  balls 
will  crack.  If  too  soft  to  handle,  put  it  in  a  cool  place  for 
an  hour,  and  then  it  will  shape  easily.  Or  it  may  be 
served  without  shaping,  just  broken  up  lightly  with  a 
fork.  If  scalded  too  long,  the  curd  becomes  very  hard 
and  brittle.  It  is  better  when  freshly  made,  and  is  deli- 
cious with  warm  gingerbread.  An  excellent  lunch  or  tea 
dish.  Season  this  cheese  with  one  tablespoonful  of  finely 
powdered  sage,  if  you  like  the  flavor. 

Forefathers'  Dinner. 

Succotash  is  the  great  dish  in  Plymouth  at  every  cele- 
bration of  Forefathers'  Day,  December  22.  Tradition 
says  it  has  been  made  in  that  town  ever  since  the 
Pilgrims  raised  their  first  corn  and  beans,  and  it  is 
supposed  they  learned  to  make  it  from  the  Indians. 

Strangers  are  rather  shy  of  this  peculiar  mixture ;  but 
it  is  a  favorite  dish  with  the  natives,  and  to  this  day  is 
made  by  some  families  many  times  through  the  winter 
season.  Although  the  dish  has  never  been  made  by  the 
writer,  it  has  been  tested  by  her  in  that  ancient  town 
many  times,  and  the  excellence  of  the  following  receipt 
is  unquestionable.  It  is  given  in  the  name  of  Mrs. 
Barnabas  ChurchiU,  of  Plymouth,  a  lady  who  has  made 
it  for  fifty  years  after  the  manner  handed  down  through 
many  generations. 

One  quart  of  large  white  beans  (not  the  pea  beans)  ;  six 
quarts  of  hulled  corn,  —  the  smutty  white  Southern  corn  ; 
six  to  eight  pounds  of  corned  beef,  from  the  second  cut  of 
the  rattle  rand ;  one  pound  of  salt  pork,  fat  and  lean ; 


Succotash.  285 


chicken  weighing  from  four  to  six  pounds ;  one  large 
white  French  turnip;  eight  or  ten  medium-sized  potatoes. 
Wash  the  beans,  and  soak  over  night  in  cold  water.  In 
the  morning  put  them  on  in  cold  soft  water.  When  boil- 
ing, change  the  water,  and  simmer  until  soft  enough  to 
mash  to  a  pulp  and  the  water  is  nearly  all  absorbed. 
Wash  the  salt  pork  and  the  corned  beef,  which  should 
be  corned  only  three  or  four  days.  Put  them  on  about 
eight  o'clock,  in  cold  water,  in  a  very  large  kettle,  and 
skim  as  they  begin  to  boil.  Clean,  and  truss  the  chicken 
as  for  boiling,  and  put  it  with  the  meat  about  an  hour  and 
a  quarter  before  dinner  time.  Allow  a  longer  time  if  a 
fowl  be  used,  and  keep  plenty  of  water  in  the  kettle. 
Two  hours  before  dinner  time,  put  the  beans,  mashed  to 
a  pulp,  and  the  hulled  corn  into  another  kettle,  with  some 
of  the  fat  from  the  meat  in  the  bottom  to  keep  them  from 
sticking.  Take  out  enough  liquor  from  the  meat  to  cover 
the  corn  and  beans,  and  let  them  simmer  where  they  will 
not  burn.  Stir  often,  and  add  more  liquor  if  needed. 
The  mixture  should  be  like  a  thick  soup,  and  the  beans 
should  absorb  all  the  liquor,  yet  it  must  not  be  too 
dry. 

Pare,  and  cut  the  turnip  into  inch  slices ;  add  it  about 
eleven  o'clock,  and  the  potatoes  (pared)  half  an  hour 
later.  Take  up  the  chicken  as  soon  as  tender,  that  it 
may  be  served  whole.  Serve  the  beef  and  pork  together, 
the  chicken,  turnip,  and  potatoes  each  on  separate  dishes, 
and  the  beans  and  corn  in  a  tureen.  The  meat  usually 
salts  the  mixture  sufficient!}*,  and  no  other  seasoning  is 
necessar}T.  Save  the  water  left  from  the  meat,  to  use  in 
warming  the  corn  and  beans  the  next  day,  serving  the 
meat  cold.  This  will  keep  several  days  in  cold  weather  ; 
and,  like  many  other  dishes,  it  is  better  the  oftener  it  is 
warmed  over,  so  there  is  no  objection  to  making  a  farge 
quantity.  The  white  Southern  corn  is  considered  the  only 
kind  suitable  for  this  ancient  dinner. 


286  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Hulled  Corn. 

Tie  a  quart  of  oak  wood  ashes  in  a  flannel  bag,  and  put 
it  with  three  gallons  of  cold  water  into  an  iron  kettle.  Let 
it  boil  and  become  lye,  or  till  the  water  is  black.  Put  in 
four  quarts  of  corn,  and  boil  till  the  hulls  have  all  started. 
Stir  it  well  with  a  wooden  spoon.  Then  pour  it  into  a 
large  pan  of  cold  water,  and  rub  with  the  hand  thoroughly 
to  loosen  the  hulls.  Change  the  water  five  or  six  times, 
and  wash  and  rub  till  the  corn  is  white  and  clean.  Keep 
in  cold  water  over  night ;  then  put  on  in  fresh  cold  water, 
and  simmer  four  hours,  or  till  soft  and  floury.  Take  off 
the  hulls  and  scum  from  the  water,  and  add  fresh  water 
several  times  during  the  simmering. 

Indian  Meal  Pudding.     (Mrs.  Barnabas  Churchill.) 

Rub  a  tablespoonful  of  butter  round  the  bottom  and  sides 
of  a  smooth  iron  kettle,  —  granite  or  porcelain  will  do ; 
when^  melted,  add  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water.  This  will 
prevent  the  milk  from  burning.  Add  one  quart  of  milk. 
Let  it  boil  up,  and  almost  over  the  kettle  ;  then  sift  in  one 
pint  of  fine  yellow  granulated  corn  meal,  sifting  with  the  left 
hand,  and  holding  the  meal  high,  that  every  grain  may  be 
thorough^  scalded.  Stir  constantly  ;  add  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt,  and  set  away  till  cold.  Then  add  half  a  pint  of 
New  Orleans  molasses  and  one  quart  of  cold  milk.  Put  into 
a  well-buttered  deep  pudding-dish,  cover  with  a  plate,  and 
bake  very  slowly  ten  or  twelve  hours.  Put  it  in  a  "  Satur- 
day afternoon  oven,"  where  the  fire  will  keep  low  nearly 
all  night.  Let  it  remain  over  night,  and  serve  for  a  Sun- 
day breakfast. 

Chickins  forc'd  with  Oysters. 
(Taken  from  a  receipt  book  written  in  1764.) 

Take  Oysters,  parsley,  Onions,  butter,  pepper,  Salt,  grated 
Bread,  Mushrooms  —  if  you  can  get  ym,  &  as  many  eggs 
as  you  think  propper,  fill  them  inside,  &  Cut  ym  on  the 


Bean  Porridge  287 


breast,  if  you  have  a  mind  to,  &  put  some  of  the  stuffing 
there,  make  gravy  of  Oysters,  butter  &  mace,  pepper, 
roast  them  well. 


Bean  Porridge.     (Mrs.  C.  M.  Poor.') 

Five  pounds  of  corned  beef,  not  too  salt,  or  four  pounds 
of  beef  and  one  of  salt  pork;  one  pint  of  dry  white  beans,  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  corn  meal,  pepper  and  salt  to  taste,  one  pint 
of  hutted  corn.  Soak  the  beans  over  night.  In  the  morn- 
ing parboil  in  fresh  water  with  a  pinch  of  soda  till  soft. 
Put  the  corned  beef  and  pork  in  cold  water,  skim  carefully, 
and  simmer  four  or  five  hours,  or  till  tender.  Take  out, 
and  cut  into  two-inch  pieces,  and  remove  the  bone  and 
gristle ;  also  the  fat  from  the  liquor.  Put  the  meat  and 
beans  into  the  meat  liquor,  and  simmer  very  slowly  three 
or  four  hours,  or  till  most  of  the  beans  are  broken.  Half 
an  hour  before  serving  stir  in  the  meal,  first  wetting  it  in 
cold  water  to  a  smooth  paste.  The  meal  should  thicken 
the  porridge  to  about  the  consistency  of  a  thick  soup.  The 
meat  should  be  cooked  till  it  falls  apart.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Add  the  hulled  corn,  and  when  hot 
serve  with  brown  bread.  Sometimes  the  vegetables  usu- 
ally served  with  a  boiled  dinner  are  cooked  with  the  meat, 
then  removed,  and  the  beans  cooked  as  above,  in  the  meat 
liquor. 

"  This  old-fashioned  and  very  nutritious  dish  was  one  of 
the  chief  articles  of  winter  food  at  my  grandmother's  farm 
in  Northern  New  Hampshire  eighty  years  ago.  When 
cooked,  it  was  poured  into  bowls  or  basins  holding  from 
a  pint  to  two  quarts.  A  nice  tow  string  was  laid  in  a  loop 
over  the  edge,  and  the  porridge  was  placed  where  it  would 
freeze.  By  holding  the  dish  in  hot  water  it  would  cause 
the  porridge  to  slip  out ;  then  it  was  hung  up  by  the  loops 
in  the  '  buttery,'  and  was  considered  '  best  when  nine 
days  old.'  At  early  dawn  the  '  men  folks  '  who  went  into 
the  forest  '  chopping '  would  take  the  skillet,  or  a  little 
three-legged  iron  kettle,  some  large  slices  of  'rye  and 


288  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Indian'  bread  in  their  pockets  to  keep  it  from  freezing. 
The  porridge  was  hung,  wrapped  in  a  clean  towel,  upon 
the  sled  stakes.  Their  spoons  were  made  of  wood.  The 
hay  that  lay  on  the  floor  of  the  ox  sled  was  of  use  to  keep 
their  feet  warm,  and  given  to  the  oxen  for  'bait'  at  noon. 
When  it  was  twelve  o'clock  '  by  the  sun,'  they  kindled  a 
fire  by  the  aid  of  a  l  tinder  box,'  warmed  their  porridge, 
and  with  their  brown  bread  enjoyed  this  strong  food  as  no 
modern  epicure  can  his  costly  French  dishes." 

Smothered  Chicken.      (Adaline  Miller.) 

Clean  a  chicken,  too  old  for  broiling ;  split  down  the 
back,  and  put  it  breast  upwards  in  a  shallow  pan  ;  pour 
over  it  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  cover  tightly  to  keep 
in  the  steam.  Cook  half  an  hour  ;  then  baste  with  the  hot 
water,  rub  all  over  with  softened  butter,  and  dredge  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Baste  often,  keep  closely  covered,  and 
cook  till  tender.  It  should  be  yellow,  not  dark  brown. 
Thicken  the  gravy ;  add  chopped  parsley,  salt,  and  pep- 
per, and  pour  it  over  the  chicken. 

Steamed  Apple  and  Indian  Meal  Pudding.     (Mrs.  Faunce.) 

Scald  two  cups  of  corn  meal  with  boiling  water.  Add 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  molasses, 
and  two  tart  apples  cut  into  eighths  and  cored,  but  not 
pared.  Dissolve  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda  in  warm 
water,  and  add  to  the  meal.  Add  more  warm  water  to 
make  a  batter  thin  enough  to  pour.  Pour  into  a  greased 
pail,  place  it  on  a  trivet  in  a  kettle  of  boiling  water. 
Cook  three  hours.  The  water  must  not  stop  boiling.  To 
be  eaten  with  roast  meat.  The  next  day  warm  what  ie 
left  in  the  meat  gravy. 


Botany  of  Food.  289 


VEGETABLES. 

VEGETABLE  food,  in  its  widest  sense,  includes  some  part 
3f  ever}'  form  of  plant  growth,  —  herb,  shrub,  or  tree,  — 
used  either  as  vegetables,  fruits,  grains,  condiments,  or 
beverages.  Vegetables,  as  the  term  is  generally  used,  are 
such  plants  as  are  cultivated  for  culinary  purposes.  They 
comprise  a  variety  of  the  parts  of  the  plant,  —  roots, 
stems,  leaves,  flowers,  and  fruit. 

Before  studying  vegetables  proper,  it  may  be  interesting 
for  those  who  have  never  considered  food  from  a  botan- 
ical point  of  view  to  glance  at  the  various  forms  of  veg- 
etable growth  commonly  used  as  food. 

Beginning  with  roots,  we  find,  among  fleshy  roots,  the 
carrot,  turnip,  parsnip,  beet,  salsify,  and  radish,  which  are 
cooked  in  their  natural  state  or  used  raw.  Also  from 
roots  we  get  ginger,  arrowroot,  and  tapioca.  Rootstocks,  or 
stems  growing  underground,  consist  of  tubers,  like  the 
potato,  yam,  and  artichoke,  and  of  scaly  bulbs,  like  the  onion, 
chives,  leek,  and  garlic.  Stems  we  eat  in  asparagus  ;  and 
whole  trunks  of  trees  are  felled  and  used  in  making  sago, 
which  is  the  pith  of  a  species  of  palm-tree. 

Leaves  include  lettuce,  endive,  spinach,  parsley,  cabbage, 
and  greens  of  various  kinds.  Dried  leaves  and  flowers  are 
used  in  the  form  of  tea,  sage,  thyme,  bay  leaves,  tobacco, 
marjoram,  savor}',  and  other  herbs.  Leaf  stalks  include 
oelery  and  rhubarb  ;  flower  stalks,  cauliflower  and  globe  arti- 
chokes. The  juices  of  vegetables  furnish  many  forms  of 
food, — sugar,  acids,  honey,  oil,  gum,  and  wines.  The 
bark  we  use  in  cinnamon.  Unexpanded  flower-buds  are 
pickled,  as  in  capers,  or  dried,  as  in  cloves.  Ripe  cloves 
have  no  aroma. 

Many  seeds  or  bernes  are  gathered  green,  and  are  then 
dried  for  use.  Allspice,  or  Jamaica  pepper,  cassia  buds, 

19 


290  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

long  peppers,  and  black  pepper  are  of  this  class.  Mustard 
and  celery  seeds  are  used  as  well  as  the  leaves.  Nutmegs 
are  seeds ;  and  mace  is  the  aril,  or  covering,  of  the  nutmeg. 
Seed  vessels  are  used  green,  as  in  string  beans,  and  also  dried 
and  ground,  as  in  cayenne  pepper.  Farinaceous  seeds  or 
grains  include  wheat,  rye,  oats,  corn,  barley,  rice,  and  buck- 
wheat. They  have  a  thin  seed  vessel  adhering  closely  to 
the  whole  surface  of  the  seed.  Oleaginous  seeds  contain 
oil  and  starch,  like  the  cocoanut,  walnut,  chestnut,  almond, 
etc.  Leguminous  seeds  are  enclosed  in  pods,  as  peas,  beans, 
lentils,  etc. 

Under  the  general  name  of  fruit  we  eat  very  different 
things.  Fleshy  fruits,  like  grapes,  tomatoes,  gooseberries, 
blueberries,  cranberries,  and  currants,  are  pulpy  seed  vessels. 
Oranges  and  lemons  are  pulpy  seed  vessels,  with  a  thick 
leathery  rind.  Squashes,  melon,  cucumbers,  egg-plant,  etc., 
are  fleshy  fruits  with  a  hard  rind.  Chocolate  is  made 
from  the  seed  of  &  fleshy  fruit.  In  checkerberries,  quinces, 
and  in  all  parts  of  the  apple  and  pear  but  the  core,  we  eat 
&  fleshy,  enlarged  calyx.  In  peaches,  plums,  apricots,  cher- 
ries, and  other  stone  fruits,  we  eat  the  outer  part  of  a  peri- 
carp or  seed  vessel.  Olives  belong  to  this  class,  and  are 
used  green  and  in  the  form  of  oil  expressed  from  the 
fleshy  pericarp.  Coffee  is  the  seed  of  a  stone  fruit.  In 
figs  we  eat  a  hollow  flower  stalk,  grown  pulpy,  and  the 
inside  lined  with  a  great  number  of  flowers.  Mulberries 
are  clusters  of  the  pulpy  flower  leaves  and  stalk  of  minute 
multiple  flowers.  Pineapples  are  mulberries  on  a  large 
scale.  The  strawberry  is  the  receptacle  of  a  flower  grown 
juicy  and  pulpy,  and  bearing  many  one-seeded  seed  vessels 
on  its  surface.  Blackberries  also  are  receptacles,  though 
smaller,  covered  with  clusters  of  little  stone  fruits.  Rasp- 
berries are  the  little  stone  fruits  in  a  cluster  without  the 
receptacle. 

Many  fruits,  when  dried,  are  called  by  different  names. 
Dried  currants  are  small  grapes.  Sultanas  are  larger 
grapes,,  and  raisins  are  another  and  larger  variety  of  the 
same  fruit.  Prunes  and  prunellas  are  dried  plums. 


Vegetables.  291 


Some  of  the  lower  orders  of  vegetation  afford  valuable 
food.  Irish  and  Ceylon  mosses  are  seaweeds.  Iceland 
moss  is  a  lichen.  Truffles  and  mushrooms  are  a  species  of 
fungi  of  vegetable  growth,  but  possessing  a  strong  meaty 
or  animal  flavor. 

We  need  a  large  variety  of  vegetables  in  our  food  to 
promote  perfect  health.  Vegetables  are  rich  in  saline 
substances  which  counteract  the  evil  effect  of  too  much 
animal  food.  Some  are  rich  in  organic  acids,  and  many 
abound  in  indigestible  ligneous  tissues  which  are  useful 
in  certain  conditions.  Those  which  contain  starch  and 
albumen  and  which  can  be  stored  for  use  during  the  winter 
months  are  considered  the  most  valuable.  All  vegetables 
need  the  addition  of  salt  and  butter,  or  some  form  of  fat, 
and  many  are  rendered  less  indigestible  by  seasoning  with 
pepper.  Peas,  beans,  squashes,  beets,  turnips,  etc.,  which 
contain  sugar,  should  be  slightly  sweetened,  as  much  of 
the  natural  sweetness  is  lost  in  cooking ;  and  those  con- 
taining potash  salts,  as  cabbage  and  lettuce,  need  an  acid 
condiment.  Beans,  peas,  and  other  vegetables,  which  are 
difficult  of  digestion,  are  less  indigestible  if  eaten  in  the 
form  of  purees. 

Green  vegetables  should  be  freshty  gathered,  thoroughly 
washed  in  cold  water,  and  cooked  in  freshly  boiling 
salted  water.  It  is  impossible  to  give  a  definite  time 
for  .cooking,  as  much  depends  upon  their  age  and  the  time 
they  have  been  gathered.  Wilted  vegetables  require  a 
much  longer  time  than  fresh.  All  vegetables  should  be 
cooked  until  soft  and  tender,  and  no  longer.  This  is 
better  ascertained  by  watching  them  carefully  and  piercing 
with  a  fork  than  by  depending  upon  any  time-table.  Veg- 
etables which  are  eaten  raw  and  are  liable  to  ferment  in 
the  stomach  are  usually  dressed  with  some  condiment,  — 
oil,  vinegar,  salt,  and  pepper. 

Every  green  vegetable  keeps  its  color  better  if  it  be 
boiled  rapidly  and  uncovered.  Many  use  soda  for  the 
same  purpose,  but  unwisely. 


292  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Potatoes. 

The  potato  is  more  generally  used  than  any  other  veg- 
etable. It  combines  with  other  foods  —  meats  particularly 
—  to  give  the  desired  elements.  But  it  should  not  be  used 
alone,  or  in  too  great  a  proportion,  as  it  gives  very  little 
flesh-forming  material.  When  taken  exclusively,  such  a 
large  bulk  of  it  is  required  for  sustenance  that  it  results 
in  increased  size  and  prominence  of  the  stomach,  which 
sometimes  amounts  to  deformity. 

Potatoes  are  three  fourths  water.  The  solid  matter 
consists  largely  of  starch,  with  a  small  quantity  of  albumen 
and  mineral  matter  held  in  solution  in  the  juices.  The 
quantity  of  starch  increases  during  the  autumn,  and  remains 
stationary  during  the  winter.  In  spring,  when  germination 
commences,  the  starch  is  changed  to  gum,  and  renders 
the  potatoes  mucilaginous.  The  sugar  formed  from  this 
gum  renders  them  sweeter.  Potatoes  which  have  been 
frozen  and  thawed  suddenly  are  sweeter  and  more  watery 
than  before,  because  on  exposure  to  the  warmth  and  air 
the  starch  is  changed  to  sugar.  They  should  be  kept 
frozen  until  ready  to  use,  or  used  immediately  after  thaw- 
ing in  cold  water.  The  sprouts  on  potatoes  should  be 
removed  as  soon  as  they  appear,  since,  if  they  are  allowed 
to  grow,  they  exhaust  the  starch,  and  render  the  potatoes 
unfit  for  food.  Potatoes  should  be  kept  in  a  dry,  cool 
cellar. 

Botanically,  potatoes  belong  to  the  same  poisonous 
order  as  tobacco  and  deadly  nightshade,  and  contain  an 
acid  juice  which  is  unpleasant  to  the  taste  and  often 
renders  them  indigestible.  This  lies  in  and  near  the  rind 
of  the  potato.  It  is  drawn  out  by  heat.  When  the 
potatoes  are  baked  it  escapes  in  the  steam,  if  they  are 
opened  at  once ;  and  when  they  are  boiled,  it  is  absorbed 
by  the  water.  It  is  not  wasteful,  therefore,  to  peel  pota- 
toes before  cooking,  or  to  take  off  quite  a  thick  peel,  as 
they  are  thus  rendered  more  wholesome.  Taste  the  water 
in  whicL  Dotatoes  have  been  boiled,  and  you  will  have  no 


Potatoes.  293 


desire  to  use  it  in  your  yeast,  bread,  or  stews.  Potatoes 
when  first  peeled  are  white,  but  turn  brown  on  exposure 
to  the  air.  For  this  reason  they  should  be  covered  with 
cold  water  as  soon  as  peeled.  New  potatoes  are  watery, 
as  the  starch  is  not  fully  formed.  They  have  a  very  thin 
skin,  which  may  be  rubbed  or  scraped  off. 

Raw  potatoes  which  are  to  be  fried  should  be  thinly 
sliced,  and  soaked  in  cold  water  to  draw  out  all  the  starch, 
that  they  may  be  crisp  and  not  mealy.  The  cells  which 
hold  the  starch  grains  are  of  an  albuminous  nature. 
These  cells  are  divided  in  slicing  the  potatoes,  and  the 
starch  is  drawn  out  into  the  water ;  the  albuminous  mem- 
brane hardens  in  frying,  and  makes  the  potatoes  crisp. 

Boiled  potatoes  should  be  drained  the  moment  the  heat 
bursts  all  the  starch  grains,  which  may  easily  be  determined 
by  their  soft  texture  when  pierced  with  a  fork,  else  the 
starch  will  absorb  water,  and  the  potatoes  become  pasty 
and  unwholesome. 

Baked  potatoes  should  be  served  as  soon  as  soft,  and 
the  skin  should  be  slightly  ruptured  by  squeezing  to  let 
the  steam  within  escape,  else  it  will  condense  and  make 
the  potato  watery  and  unwholesome.  Potatoes  which  are 
cut  or  sliced  for  stews  and  chowders  should  be  soaked 
and  scalded  to  remove  the  greenness  before  adding  them 
to  the  stew. 

Boiled  Potatoes.  —  Select  potatoes  of  uniform  size. 
Wash  and  scrub  with  a  brush.  Pare,  and  soak  in  cold 
water.  Put  them  in  boiling  salted  water,  —  one  quart 
of  water  and  one  tablespoonful  of  salt  for  six  large  potatoes. 
Cook  half  an  hour  or  until  soft,  but  not  until  broken. 
Drain  off  every  drop  of  the  water.  Place  the  kettle  un- 
covered on  the  back  of  the  stove  to  let  the  steam  escape. 
Keep  hot  until  ready  to  serve. 

Potatoes  a  la  Neige. — Prepare  the  potatoes  as  above, 
and  when  well  drained  and  mealy  beat  them  thoroughly 
with  a  fork,  add  salt  to  taste,  and  serve  at  once,  piled 
lightly  on  the  dish. 

Rice  Potato.  —  Rub  the  beaten  potato  through  a  squash 


294  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

strainer  into  the  dish  in  which  it  is  to  be  served.  Keep 
the  dish  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  use  a  potato  masher 
or  pestle  to  facilitate  the  rubbing.  Mashed  and  riced 
potatoes  may  be  browned  by  placing  the  dish  in  the  oven 
a  few  minutes. 

Mashed  Potatoes.  —  To  one  pint  of  hot  boiled  potatoes, 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  hot  milk  or  cream  to 
moisten.  Mash  in  the  kettle  in  which  they  were  boiled, 
and  beat  with  a  fork  until  light  and  creamy,  and  turn  out 
lightly  on  a  dish.  Never  smooth  it  over,  as  that  will  make 
it  heavy  and  compact. 

Potato  Balls.  —  One  pint  of  hot  mashed  potatoes  highly 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  celery  salt,  chopped  parsley,  and 
butter ;  moisten,  if  needed,  with  a  little  hot  milk  or  cream. 
Beat  one  egg  light,  and  add  part  of  it  to  the  potatoes. 
Shape  into  smooth  round  balls.  Brush  over  with  the  re- 
mainder of  the  egg,  and  bake  on  a  buttered  tin  until 
brown.  Be  careful  not  to  get  them  too  moist. 

Potato  Puff.  —  Prepare  as  for  potato  balls,  making  it 
quite  moist  with  cream  or  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  and  white* 
of  two  eggs  separately,  and  stir  them  into  the  potatoey 
when  slightly  cooled.  Turn  into  a  shallow  baking-dish, 
pile  it  in  a  rocky  form,  and  bake  ten  minutes,  or  until  it  is 
puffed  and  browned.  Add  half  a  cup  of  finely  chopped 
cooked  meat,  to  give  a  variety. 

Lyonnaise  Potatoes.  —  Cut  one  pint  of  cold  boiled  potatoes 
into  dice,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  Fry  one  scant 
tablespoonful  of  minced  onion  in  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
butter •,  until  yellow.  Add  the  potatoes,  and  stir  with  a 
fork  until  they  have  absorbed  all  the  butter,  being  careful 
not  to  break  them.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
parsley,  and  serve  hot.  One  tablespoonful  of  vinegar 
heated  with  the  butter  gives  the  potatoes  a  nice  flavor. 

Creamed  Potatoes.  — Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  cubes 
measuring  one  third  of  an  inch,  or  into  thin  slices.  Put 
them  in  a  small  shallow  pan,  cover  with  milk,  and  cook 
until  the  potatoes  have  absorbed  nearly  all  the  milk.  To 


Potatoes.  295 


one  pint  of  potatoes  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  a  little 
chopped  parsley. 

Fried  Potatoes.  —  Cut  cold  boiled  potatoes  into  slices 
about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Have  a  frying-pan  hot 
and  well  greased  with  salt  pork  or  bacon  fat.  Cook  the 
potatoes  in  the  fat  until  brown,  then  turn,  and  brown  the 
other  side. 

Fr&tich  Potatoes.  —  Fry  as  above,  pour  a  white  sauce  on 
a  platter,  and  arrange  the  fried  potatoes  on  the  sauce. 

Potatoes  a  la  Maitre  d' Hotel.  —  Prepare  the  Maitre 
d' Hotel  butter  ;  mix  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  creamed,  with 
the  whole  yolk  of  one  egg.  Add  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  juice, 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt, 
and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper.  Cut  one  pint  of  cold  boiled 
potatoes  in  thin  slices  or  dice,  or  cut  raw  potatoes  into 
balls  with  a  French  cutter,  and  boil  them  ten  minutes. 
Warm  the  potatoes  in  milk  enough  to  barely  cover  them. 
When  the  milk  is  nearly  absorbed,  stir  in  quickly  the 
Maitre  d'Hotel  butter,  and  serve  at  once. 

Baked  Potatoes.  —  Select  smooth  potatoes  of  uniform 
size.  Wash,  and  scrub  well.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven  about 
forty-five  minutes,  or  until  soft.  Pinch  them  to  break  the 
skins,  and  let  the  steam  escape.  Serve  at  once,  and 
never  cover,  as  the  steam  causes  them  to  become  soggy. 

Franconia  Potatoes  (Baked  with  Meat} . — Wash,  scrub, 
and  pare  potatoes  of  uniform  size.  Put  them  in  the  drip- 
ping-pan with  the  meat,  and  baste  when  the  meat  is 
bashed.  Or  place  them  in  a  small  tin  pan  beside  the 
meat  or  on  the  grate,  and  baste  with  the  dripping. 

Potatoes  in  the  Half- Shell,  or  Souffle. — Wash,  scrub, 
and  bake  three  smooth  potatoes.  Cut  in  halves  lengthwise, 
and  without  breaking  the  skin  scoop  out  the  potato  into  a 
hot  bowl.  Mash,  and  add  one  even  tablespoonful  of  butter, 
one  of  hot  milk,  and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Beat  the  whites 
of  two  eggs  stiff,  and  mix  it  with  the  potato.  Fill  the  skins 
with  the  potato  mixture,  heaping  it  lightly  on  the  top. 
Brown  slightly. 


296  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Stuffed  Potatoes.  —  Bake  potatoes  of  equal  size ;  when 
done,  and  still  hot,  cut  off  a  small  piece  from  the  end  of 
each  potato.  Scoop  out  the  inside.  Mash,  and  mix  with 

it  half  the  quantity  of  cooked 
meat,  highly  seasoned  and 
finely  chopped.  Fill  the 
skins  a  little  above  the 
edge.  Set  in  the  oven  to 
brown  the  tops.  Or  omit 
FIG.  39.  stuffed  Potatoes.  the  meat,  and  fill  only  with 

the  mashed   and   seasoned 
potato.     Replace  the  cover,  and  heat  again. 

Fried  Raw  Potatoes.  —  Pare,  wash,  and  cut  into  the  de- 
sired shape.  Soak  in  cold  salted  water,  drain,  and  dry 
between  towels.  Fiy  in  clear  fat,  hot  enough  to  brown 
while  counting  sixty.  Drain,  and  sprinkle  with  salt. 

Saratoga  Potatoes  are  shaved  in  thin  slices.  Parisienne 
Potatoes  are  cut  in  small  balls  with  a  French  vegetable 
cutter.  Macaroni,  or  Shoo  Fly,  Potatoes  are  cut  in  quarter- 
inch  slices,  then  in  quarter-inch  strips.  Crescents  and 
other  shapes  may  be  cut  with  vegetable  cutters. 

These  are  all  to  be  fried ;  but  some  prefer  to  boil  the 
Parisienne  potatoes,  and  serve  in  a  cream  sauce,  flavored 
with  parsley. 

Sweet  Potatoes  may  be  baked  or  boiled.  They  are  better 
baked.  Cold  sweet  potatoes  may  be  cut  in  slices,  warmed 
in  milk,  and  seasoned  with  butter  and  salt,  or  browned  in 
butter. 

A  Southern  Dish.  (Adaline  Miller.)  —  Cut  cold  baked 
sweet  potatoes  into  quarter-inch  slices,  and  put  them  in  an 
earthen  dish.  Spread  each  layer  with  butter,  and  sprinkle 
slightly  with  sugar,  and  bake  until  hot  and  slightly  browned. 
Sweet  potatoes  are  much  richer  when  twice  cooked. 

Spinach. 

Pick  over,  trim  off  the  roots  and  decaj'ed  leaves  ;  wash 
thoroughly,  lifting  the  spinach  from  one  pan  of  water  into 
another,  that  the  sand  may  be  left  in  the  water,  and 


Greens.  297 


changing  the  water  until  it  is  clear.  Put  the  spinach  in  a 
large  kettle  without  water.  Place  it  on  the  stove  where  it 
will  cook  slowly  until  the  juice  is  drawn  out,  then  boil 
until  tender.  Drain  and  chop  fine.  For  half  a  peck  of 
spinach  add  one  large  iablespoonful  of  butter,  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt)  and  a  quarter  of  a  saltspoonful  of  pepper  ; 
or  add  a  little  thin  cream  sauce.  Heat  again  and  serve  on 
toast.  Garnish  with  hard-boiled  eggs  and  toast  pointt,  or 
serve  cold  with  French  dressing. 

Spinach  is  nearly  all  water,  and  a  smaller  portion  of  the 
potash  salts  —  its  most  valuable  constituent — is  lost  when 
it  is  cooked  in  its  own  juices. 

Greens. 

The  leaves  and  stalks  of  young  beets,  milkweed,  dande- 
lions, and  narrow  dock  are  useful  as  food  in  the  early 
spring,  chiefly  for  the  water  and  alkaline  salts  which  they 
contain.  They  should  be  picked  over,  and  washed  care- 
fully, cooked  in  boiling  salted  water  until  tender,  then 
drained,  and  seasoned  with  butter  and  salt.  Vinegar  is 
often  used  with  them  as  a  desirable  condiment.  Man}' 
people  consider  it  necessary  to  boil  a  piece  of  salt  pork  with 
greens,  but  they  are  more  wholesome  when  seasoned  with 
butter.  Dandelions  should  be  cooked  in  plent}-  of  water  ; 
but  other  tender  greens  may  be  cooked,  like  spinach,  in 
their  own  juices. 

Asparagus. 

Wash  carefully  and  break  (not  cut)  into  inch  pieces 
as  far  as  each  stalk  can  be  broken.  When  it  will  not  snap 
oflt  quickly,  the  stalk  is  too  tough  to  be  used.  Cook  in 
boiling  salted  water,  deep  enough  to  cover,  for  fifteen  min- 
utes, or  until  tender.  When  the  asparagus  is  not  fresh 
and  tender,  it  is  well  to  boil  the  hardest  part  first,  and  add 
the  tender  heads  after  ten  minutes.  Drain,  season  with 
butter  and  *a#,  or  pour  white  sauce  over  it,  and  serve  on 
toast.  Man}'  people  prefer  to  leave  the  stalks  whole,  and 
tie  them  into  bundles  before  boiling.  When  served  in  this 
way,  unless  all  the  tough  part  be  broken  off  before  cook- 


298  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

ing,  it  is  inconvenient,  if  not  impossible,  to  cut  the  stalk 

afterward. 

Green  Peas. 

Peas  are  fresh  when  the  pods  are  green,  crisp,  and 
plump.  The  fresh  pods  are  sweet,  and  full  of  flavor. 
Wash  the  pods  before  shelling,  then  the  peas  will  require 
no  washing.  Put  the  peas  into  a  colander,  and  sift  out 
the  fine  particles.  Boil  the  pods  ten  minutes,  skim  them 
out,  and  add  the  peas.  Boil  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  tender. 
When  nearly  done,  add  the  salt.  Let  the  water  boil  nearly 
away,  and  serve  without  draining,  except  when  the  peas 
are  to  be  served  as  a  garnish.  Season  with  butter,  cream, 
salt,  and  a  little  sugar. 

Old  peas  should  be  cooked  until  tender,  drained,  mashed, 
and  rubbed  through  a  sieve,  and  served  as  a  vegetable  or 
made  into  a  puree. 

Peas  are  nutritious,  but  they  are  indigestible  unless  the 
hull  be  broken  before  they  are  swallowed. 

Beans. 

String  Beans.  —  Kemove  the  strings.  The  surest  way 
to  do  that  is  to  pare  a  thin  strip  from  each  edge  of  the  pods. 
Many  persons  think  this  unnecessary ;  but  the  beans  are 
much  more  delicate,  and  two  or  three  strings  are  enough 
to  spoil  the  whole  dish.  Lay  a  handful  of  the  pods  on  a 
board  with  the  ends  even,  and  cut  them  all  at  once  into 
inch  pieces.  Wash,  and  cook  in  boiling  salted  water  from 
one  to  three  hours,  the  time  varying  with  different  vari- 
eties of  beans.  Drain  ;  season  with  butter,  salt,  and  cream, 
and  serve  hot,  or  serve  cold  as  a  salad.  When  very  young 
and  tender,  they  may  be  cooked  in  just  water  enough  to 
keep  them  from  burning. 

Shelled  Beans.  —  Wash,  and  cook  in  boiling  water ;  al- 
ways use  soft  water.  Add  salt  after  ten  minutes,  and  boil 
until  tender.  Let  the  water  boil  nearly  away,  and  serve 
without  draining.  Season  with  buffer  and  salt.  Lima 
beans  and  other  white  varieties  are  improved  by  adding 
a  little  hot  cream. 


Corn.  299 


Green  or  Sweet  Corn. 

Remove  the  husk,  and  every  thread  of  the  silky  fibre. 
Put  into  boiling  water,  cover  with  the  clean  inner  husks, 
and  cook  from  five  to  fifteen  minutes.  Try  a  kernel,  and 
take  up  the  corn  as  soon  as  the  milk  has  thickened  and 
the  raw  taste  is  destroyed*  Corn,  if  boiled  a  long  time,  is 
made  hard  and  its  flavor  impaired. 

Green  Corn  Fritters,  or  Mock  Oysters.  —  Cut  through 
each  row  of  kernels  with  the  point  of  a  sharp  knife.  Then 
with  the  back  of  the  knife  press  out  the  pulp,  and  leave 
the  hull  on  the  cob.  This  is  better  and  easier  than  to 
shave  or  grate  off  the  kernels.  To  one  pint  of  corn  pulp 
add  two  well-beaten  eggs,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  half 
a  saltspoonful  of  pepper,  and  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour, 
or  just  enough  to  keep  the  corn  and  egg  together.  Do 
not  add  milk,  as  then  more  flour  will  be  required,  and  this 
destroys  the  flavor  of  the  corn.  Fry  in  small  cakes  on  a 
buttered  griddle,  and  brown  well  on  each  side ;  or  add 
more  flour,  and  drop  by  spoonfuls  into  deep  fat.  When 
highh*  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper,  these  fritters  have 
the  flavor  of  oysters.  Make  in  the  same  way  with  canned 
corn,  finely  chopped.  Add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  milk,  as 
the  canned  corn  is  less  moist  than  the  fresh. 

Succotash.  — This  may  be  made  by  mixing  equal  quan- 
tities of  shelled  beans  and  corn  cut  from  the  cob,  having 
first  cooked  and  seasoned  them  separately.  Or  cut  the 
raw  corn  from  the  cob,  by  scoring  each  row  and  pressing 
the  pulp  out  with  the  back  of  the  knife,  leaving  the  hulls 
on  the  cob,  and  when  the  beans  are  nearly  soft,  add  the 
corn,  and  cook  fifteen  minutes.  Add  cream,  butter,  salt, 
and  sugar  to  taste. 

In  winter,  when  the  vegetables  are  dry  and  hard,  soak 
the  corn  and  Lima  beans  over  night.  Put  the  beans  on 
in  cold  water,  changing  it  twice.  As  soon  as  it  boils,  add 
the  corn,  and  cook  slowly  several  hours,  or  till  soft.  Sea- 
son with  butter,  sugar,  and  salt.  Canned  Lima  beans  and 
canned  corn  are  also  used. 


3OO  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Corn,  beans,  and  peas  are  delicious  and  wholesome  sum- 
mer vegetables.  Much  of  the  prejudice  against  their  use 
among  children  results  from  imperfect  mastication,  which 
renders  them  indigestible.  Every  row  of  kernels  should 
be  cut  with  a  sharp  knife  if  the  corn  be  served  on  the 
cob,  and  every  pea  or  bean  should  be  mashed  with  a  fork 
to  insure  their  perfect  digestion.  Thus  eaten,  these  vege- 
tables are  valuable  food,  and  will  cause  no  trouble. 


Tomatoes. 

Raw  Tomatoes.  —  Scald  and  peel  at  least  an  hour  be- 
fore using.  Keep  them  on  the  ice,  and  serve  with  sugar, 
salt,  vinegar,  or  with  Mayonnaise  dressing.  If  very 
large,  they  may  be  sliced  before  serving. 

Stewed  Tomatoes.  —  Pour  boiling  water  over  them, 
remove  the  skins  and  the  hard  green  stem.  Cut  them 
into  quarters,  and  stew  in  a  granite  pan  fifteen  minutes, 
until  the  pulp  is  soft  and  the  juice  is  parti}7  boiled  away. 
Add  salt,  pepper,  butter,  and  sugar  if  desired.  The 
tomato  may  be  thickened  with  cracker  crumbs  or  with 
cornstarch  wet  in  a  little  cold  water. 

Scalloped  Tomatoes.  — ;  Season  one  quart  of  tomatoes 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  pepper, 
half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  a  few  drops  of  onion  juice. 
Butter  a  deep  dish,  and  sprinkle  withjfme  crumbs.  Pour 
in  the  tomatoes.  Moisten  one  cup  of  cracker  crumbs  with 
half  a  cup  of  melted  butter.  Spread  over  the  top,  and 
brown  in  the  oven.  Raw  tomatoes  sliced  may  be  used  in 
Ia37ers,  alternating  with  crumbs  and  seasoning. 

Stuffed  Tomatoes.  —  Cut  a  thin  slice  from  the  stem  end 
of  large,  smooth  tomatoes.  Remove  the  seeds  and  soft 
pulp,  and  mix  with  the  pulp  an  equal  amount  of  buttered 
cracker  crumbs.  Season  to  taste  with  salt,  pepper,  sugar, 
and  onion  juice.  Fill  the  cavity  with  the  mixture,  heap- 
ing it  in  the  centre,  and  sprinkle  buttered  crumbs  over  the 
top.  Place  the  tomatoes  in  a  granite  pan,  and  bake  until 
*.he  crumbs  are  brown.  Take  them  up  carefully  with  a 


Onions.  301 


broad  knife,  and  serve  very  hot.  A  small  quantity  of 
cooked  meat  finelj-  chopped  may  be  used  with  the 
crumbs. 

Onions. 

Pour  boiling  water  over  them,  and  remove  the  skins. 
Put  them  in  boiling  salted  water.  When  they  have 
boiled  five  minutes,  change  the  water,  and  change  again 
after  ten  minutes.  Boil  half  an  hour,  or  until  tender,  but 
not  until  broken.  Drain  off  the  water,  add  milk  enough 
to  cover,  and  cook  five  or  ten  minutes  longer.  Season 
with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper.  Serve  plain  or  as  a  garnish 
for  beef.  Or  omit  the  seasoning,  and  pour  white  sauce  Y 
over  them. 

Baked  or  Scalloped  Onions.  —  Boil,  and  if  large  cut 
into  quarters.  Put  into  a  shallow  dish,  cover  with  white 
sauce  and  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are 
brown. 

Onions  are  rich  in  flesh-forming  elements,  are  soothing 
to  the  mucous  membrane,  and  are  otherwise  medicinal. 
They  impart  an  agreeable  flavor  to  many  kinds  of  food. 

Cauliflower. 

The  leaves  should  be  green  and  fresh,  and  the  heads 
creamy  white.  When  there  are  dark  spots,  the  cauliflower 
is  wilted.  Pick  off  the  outside  leaves,  soak  in  cold  salted 
water,  top  downwards,  for  one  hour,  to  cleanse  it  thor- 
oughly. Tie  it  in  a  twine  bag,  to  prevent  breaking.  Cook 
in  boiling  salted  water  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
tender.  If  not  boiled  in  a  bag,  remove  the  scum  before 
it  settles  on  the  cauliflower.  Serve  in  a  shallow  dish,  and 
cover  with  a  cream  or  HoUandaise  sauce.  Or  add  a  little 
grated  cheese,  and  cover  with  cracker  crumbs  moistened 
in  melted  butter,  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are  brown. 
Or  when  cold,  serve  as  a  salad  with  Mayonnaise  dressing. 
Cauliflower  may  be  cut  in  small  pieces,  and  served  as  a 
garnish  around  broiled  chicken  or  sweetbreads. 


3<D2  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Cabbage. 

Select  a  small  heavy  cabbage.  Remove  the  outside 
leaves,  cut  into  quarters,  cut  off  the  tough  stalk,  soak  iu 
cold  salted  water  half  an  hour.  Cook  till  tender  in  boil- 
ing salted  water,  changing  the  water  twice.  Drain,  cut 
or  chop  fine,  season  with  salt  and  butter,  or  cover  with 
white  sauce  and  buttered  crumbs ,  and  bake  till  the  crumbs 
are  brown. 

The  cauliflower  and  cabbage  contain  more  gluten,  and 
are  therefore  more  nutritious,  than  any  other  vegetable 
food.  They  should  be  eaten  with  fat  and  oily  food,  and 
require  an  acid,  like  lemon  juice  or  vinegar,  as  a  condi- 
ment. Cabbage  is  considered  indigestible,  and  many  boil 
with  it  a  small  piece  of  red  pepper  to  counteract  this 
effect.  If  the  water  in  which  cabbage  is  boiled  be  changed 
two  or  three  times,  less  of  the  strong  odor  and  flavor  is 
retained.  With  proper  treatment  this  vegetable  may  be 
served  as  temptingly  as  any  other.  It  is  more  wholesome 
when  served  in  its  raw  state  as  a  salad  than  when  cooked. 

Celery. 

Scrape  clean,  and  cut  the  stalks  into  inch  pieces  ;  cook 
in  boiling  salted  water  half  an  hour,  or  until  tender. 
Drain  and  mix  with  a  white  sauce  /  or  dip  them  in  fritter 
batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat.  Celery  is  usually  eaten  raw,  as 
a  salad,  but  is  more  digestible  when  cooked.  Celery  is 
particularly  good  for  nervous  or  rheumatic  people. 

Egg  Plant. 

Cut  the  plant  into  slices  one  third  of  an  inch  thick,  with- 
out removing  the  skin.  Sprinkle  salt  over  each  slice,  pile 
them,  and  cover  with  a  weight  to  press  out  the  juice.  Drain, 
and  dip  each  slice  first  iufine  crumbs,  then  in  beaten  egg, 
and  again  in  crumbs,  and  saute  them  in  hot  fat.  Egg 
plants  belong  to  the  same  family  as  the  potato  and  tobacco, 
all  of  which  contain  a  bitter  juice,  niore  or  less  poisonous. 


Mushrooms.  303 


Egg  Plant  Fritters.  (Adaline  Miller.)  —  Put  the  egg 
plant  whole  into  boiling  salted  water,  mixed  with  one 
tablespoonful  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice ;  cook  twenty 
minutes  or  until  tender ;  mash  and  drain.  To  one  pint  of 
egg  plant  add  half  a  cup  of  flour,  two  eggs,  well  beaten, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Fry  in  small  cakes  in  hot 
fat,  browning  well  on  both  sides. 

Artichokes. 

The  Jerusalem  Artichoke  is  a  tuber,  something  like  the 
potato  ;  but  as  it  contains  no  starch,  it  is  not  mealy.  Peel 
and  throw  at  once  into  cold  water  and  vinegar  to  preserve 
the  color.  Cook  in  boiling  salted  water  until  tender,  watch 
closely,  and  take  them  out  as  they  become  soft,  for  if  left 
in  longer  they  will  harden  again.  Serve  with  a  white  sauce. 
Jerusalem  artichokes  may  be  used  as  a  salad,  or  they  ma,y 
be  pickled. 

Globe  Artichokes.  —  These  are  thick,  fleshy-petalled 
flowers  which  grow  on  a  plant  that  resembles  the  thistle. 
The  thickened  receptacle  and  scales  of  the  involucre  form 
the  edible  portion.  Soak  the  artichokes,  cut  off  the  out- 
side leaves,  trim  away  the  lower  leaves  and  the  ends  of 
the  others.  Cook  in  boiling  salted  water,  with  the  tops 
downward,  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  leaves  can  be  drawn 
out.  Drain,  remove  the  choke,  and  serve  with  drawn 
butter. 

Mushrooms. 

Peel  the  top  and  stalk,  break  in  small  pieces,  place 
them  in  a  stewpan,  sprinkle  slightly  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  let  them  stand  half  an  hour,  until  the  juice  is  drawn 
out.  Stew  the  mushrooms  in  the  juice  and  a  little  butter 
until  tender,  add  cream  to  cover,  and  when  the  cream  is 
hot  serve  on  toast.  Mushrooms  are  considered  difficult  of 
digestion.  They  are  a  fungous  growth,  and  have  a  woody 
odor  and  a  meaty  flavor.  They  are  used  largely  in  sauces. 
Unless  familiar  with  the  difference  between  the  edible  and 
the  poisonous  mushrooms,  it  is  safer  to  use  the  canned 
mushrooms,  or  to  obtain  the  fresh  at  a  reliable  market. 


304  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  eatable  mushroom  first  appears  very  small,  and  of 
a  round  button  shape,  on  a  short  underground  stalk.  At 
this  stage  it  is  all  white.  It  grows  rapidly,  and  soon  the 
skin  breaks  around  the  base  of  the  button,  which  there 
spreads  like  an  umbrella,  and  shows  underneath  a  fringed 
fur  of  a  fine  salmon-color,  which  changes  to  a  chocolate 
and  then  to  a  dark  brown  color,  when  the  mushrooms  have 
attained  some  size.  They  are  in  perfection  before  the  last 
change.  The  skin  should  peel  easily.  Those  with  yellow 
or  white  fur,  and  which  grow  in  low,  damp  shady  places, 
should  be  avoided.  The  good  mushrooms  spring  up  in 
open  sunny  fields  in  August  and  September.  Do  not  trust 
to  any  written  description,  but  search  the  fields  with  some 
one  who  can  unerringly  distinguish  them. 

The  common  puff-ball,  when  white  and  hard,  though  not 
so  delicate  as  the  mushroom,  makes  a  palatable  dish.  Jt 
should  be  peeled  with  a  silver  knife,  cut  in  slices  half  an 
inch  thick,  dipped  in  crumbs  and  egg,  or  in  a  batter,  and 
fried.  Serve  at  once. 

Winter  Squash. 

If  the  shell  be  soft,  pare  the  squash,  remove  the  seeds, 
and  steam  or  cook  in  boiling  salted  water.  If  the  shell  be 
hard,  split  the  squash,  remove  the  seeds,  and  steam  or 
boil  until  soft.  Scrape  out  the  soft  part  from  the  shell, 
mash,  and  season  to  taste.  A  pint  of  squash  needs  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter,  a  few  grains  of  pepper,  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  sugar,  and  salt  to  taste.  Squash 
may  be  baked  in  the  shell,  then  mashed,  and  seasoned  as 
above. 

Summer  Squashes  are  good  only  when  young,  fresh, 
and  tender.  Wash,  and  cut  into  quarters  or  small  pieces. 
The  skin  and  seeds  need  not  be  removed.  Cook  in  boiling 
salted  water  twenty  minutes,  or  until  tender.  Place  the 
squash  in  a  strainer  cloth,  mash  it  thoroughly,  squeeze  the 
cloth  until  the  squasn  is  dry.  Add  a  little  cream  or  butter, 
salt  and  pepper,  and  heat  again  before  serving. 


Parsnips.  305 


Carrots  and  Turnips. 

Carrots  and  turnips  contain,  instead  of  starch,  a  gelati- 
nous gummy  substance,  called  pectine.  They  are  useful 
in  soups,  giving  them  a  fine  flavor  and  color.  Soups  in 
which  carrots  are  used  are  gelatinous  when  cold.  Carrots 
are  not  a  favorite  vegetable  for  the  table ;  but  if  young 
and  tender,  they  are  palatable  when  boiled,  and  served  in 
a  white  sauce.  They  should  be  washed  and  scraped  (not 
pared)  before  boiling.  Old  carrots  are  sometimes  boiled, 
and  served  with  corned  beef  and  salt  fish.  Their  rich 
color  makes  them  effective  as  a  garnish.  The  red,  outside 
part  is  considered  the  best,  as  the  inside  is  stringy. 

Turnips  contain  but  little  nutriment.  They  are  very 
watery,  and  having  no  starch  are  agreeable  food  to  be 
eaten  with  potatoes.  They  contain  no  salt,  and  therefore 
need  more  than  other  vegetables.  Being  wholly  deficient 
in  starch  and  fat,  the}"  are  good  with  fat  meat,  corned  beef, 
roast  pork,  and  mutton. 

Turnips  in  White  Sauce.  —  Wash  and  cut  French  tur- 
nips into  half  or  three-quarter  inch  slices ;  pare  and  cut 
each  slice  into  strips,  and  then  into  cubes.  Boil  in  boiling 
salted  water  until  tender.  Drain  and  pour  white  sauce 
over  them.  Turnips  may  also  be  mashed,  drained,  and 
seasoned  with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 

Parsnips. 

Parsnips  contain  starch  and  sugar,  a  small  portion  of 
gluten,  and  less  water  than  carrots  or  turnips.  They  are 
eaten  with  salt  fish  and  corned  beef.  Those  which  have 
remained  in  the  ground  through  the  winter  are  considered 
the  best.  They  should  be  washed  and  scrubbed  thor- 
oughly, but  are  more  easily  peeled  after  boiling.  Cut 
them  into  half-inch  cubes,  and  serve  in  white  sauce. 

Parsnip  Fritters.  —  After  boiling  the  parsnips,  plunge 
them  ^nto  cold  water  and  the  skins  will  slip  off  easily, 
mash  them,1  and  season  to  taste  with  butter,  salt,  and 
pepper.  Flour  the  hands,  and  shape  the  mashed  parsnip 

A  Parsnips  are  more  digestible  if  mashed  and  rubbed  through  a  purd-e 
sieve  to  remove  the  woodv  fit  ire. 


306  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

into  small,  flat  oval  cakes.  Roll  them  in  flour,  and  fry 
them  in  butter  until  brown ;  or  dip  them  in  molasses ,  and 
then  fry. 

Salsify,  or  Oyster  Plant. 

Scrape,  and  throw  at  once  into  cold  water,  with  a  little 
vinegar  in  it  to  keep  them  from  turning  black.  Cook  in 
boiling  salted  water  one  hour,  or  until  tender.  Drain, 
mash,  and  season,  and  fry  like  parsnip  fritters ;  or  cut 
into  inch  lengths,  and  mix  with  a  white  sauce;  or  dip  the 
pieces  in  fritter  batter,  and  fry  in  hot  fat. 

Beets. 

Wash,  but  do  not  cut  them,  as  that  destroys  the  sweet- 
ness and  color.  Cook  in  boiling  water  until  tender.  Young 
beets  will  cook  in  one  hour,  old  beets  require  a  longer 
time  ;  and  if  tough,  wilted,  or  stringy,  they  will  never  boil 
tender.  When  cooked,  put  them  in  a  pan  of  cold  water, 
and  rub  off  the  skin.  Young  beets  are  cut  in  slices,  and 
served  hot  with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  or  cut  in  small 
cubes  and  served  in  a  white  sauce.  They  are  often  pickled 
in  vinegar,  spiced  or  plain,  and  served  cold ;  or  they  may 
be  cut  into  dice,  and  mixed  with  other  vegetables  for  a 
salad.  -..., 

Rice. 

Rice  should  be  thoroughly  washed.  Turn  the  rice  into 
a  coarse  strainer,  and  place  the  strainer  in  a  deep  dish  of 
cold  water.  Rub  the  rice,  and  lift  it  in  the  strainer  out  of 
the  water,  changing  the  water  till  it  is  clear.  It  is  impor- 
tant to  observe  all  the  steps  of  this  process,  for  in  this 
way  all  the  grit  is  deposited  in  the  water,  leaving  the  rice 
thoroughly  cleansed.  Drain,  and  cook  in  either  of  the 
following  ways,  each  of  which,  if  followed  carefully,  will 
insure  white,  distinct  kernels  of  thoroughly  cooked  rice. 

Boiled  Rice.  —  Have  two  quarts  of  water  with  one  table- 

'   spoonful  of  salt  boiling  rapidly  in  an  uncovered  kettle. 

Throw  in  one  cup  of  well-washed  rice,  and  let  it  boil  so 

fast  that  the  kernels  fairly  dance  in  the  water.     Skim  care- 


Rice.  307 

fully,  and  stir  with  a  fork,  never  with  a  spoon,  as  that 
mashes  the  kernels.  Cook  twelve,  fifteen,  or  twenty  min- 
utes, according  to  the  age  of  the  rice,  and  add  more  boiling 
water  if  needed.  Test  the  grains  often,  and  the  moment 
they  are  soft,  and  before  the  starch  begins  to  dissolve  and 
cloud  the  water,  pour  into  a  squash  strainer.  Drain,  and 
place  the  rice  —  still  in  the  strainer  —  in  a  pan  in  the  hot 
closet  or  on  the  back  of  the  stove.  Stir  it  before  serving, 
to  let  the  steam  escape  and  the  kernels  become  dry.  Be 
careful  not  to  cook  the  rice  enough  to  burst  the  grains, 
as  then  nothing  can  prevent  them  from  sticking  together. 

Steamed  Rice.  —  Pour  two  cups  of  boiling  water  on  one 
cup  of  well-washed  rice  ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Cook  in  the  double  boiler  thirty  minutes,  or  till  soft.  Re- 
move the  cover,  stir  with  a  fork  to  let  the  steam  escape, 
and  dry  off  the  rice.  Rice  will  usually  absorb  twice  its 
bulk  of  water ;  but  when  cooked  in  milk  or  stock  a  little 
more  moisture  will  be  required. 

Some  of  the  nitrogenous  and  mineral  constituents,  of 
which  rice  has  but  a  small  amount,  are  lost  in  the  boiling 
water,  and  unless  the  water  be  used  for  soup,  to  boil  rice 
is  a  wasteful  process.  Steaming  is  a  much  easier  method, 
and  is  more  economical.  Many  dishes  may  be  prepared 
from  combinations  of  rice  and  various  seasoning  materials. 

Savory  Rice.  —  Steam  one  scant  cup  of  rice  and  two 
cups  of  rich  white  or  brown  stock  highty  seasoned  with 
salt,  cayenne,  chopped  parsley,  and  ground  herbs.  Stir 
in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  with  a  fork,  just  before 
serving. 

No.  2. — Fry' one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter  until  j'ellow ;  add 
one  scant  cup  of  uncooked  rice,  and  stir  until  slightly 
colored ;  then  add  one  pint  of  chicken  stock,  and  pour 
all  into  the  double  boiler,  and  steam  thirt}T  minutes. 

Salmon  Rice.  —  Use  half  stock  and  half  strained  toma- 
toes ;  season  highly  with  curry,  and  cook  like  Savory  Rice. 

Rice  with  Cheese.  —  Steam  the  rice  after  either  of  the 
preceding  receipts,  and  put  it  in  a  shallow  dish  in  layers, 


308  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

alternating  with  grated  cheese  and  tomato  sauce,  or  with 
slices  of  hard-boiled  eggs  and  thin  cream  sauce.  Heat  in 
the  oven  with  or  without  a  crust  of  buttered  crumbs. 

Macaroni,  Spaghetti,  and  Vermicelli. 

These  are  thick  pastes  made  from  wheaten  flour  mixed 
with  a  small  quantity  of  water.  They  are  made  to  take 
various  shapes  by  being  forced  through  holes  in  metallic 
plates.  These  plates  are  arranged  over  a  fire  ;  and  the 
macaroni,  as  it  issues  from  the  holes,  is  partially  baked, 
and  afterward  hung  to  dry  over  rods.  Vermicelli  is  used 
in  soup  and  puddings ;  macaroni  and  spaghetti  as  vege- 
tables. 

Macaroni  is  a  nutritious  and  economical  food,  and  should 
be  used  more  extensively  than  it  is.  Do  not  wash  it,  as 
the  boiling  water  will  better  take  off  anything  that  needs 
to  be  removed.  Always  cook  it  in  boiling  salted  water 
until  tender,  before  serving  it  in  any  way.  Drain,  and 
pour  cold  water  over  it  to  keep  it  from  becoming  pasty. 
Macaroni,  as  frequently  prepared,  in  long  pieces,  which 
utterly  refuse  to  come  out  of  the  dish  in  a  proper  manner 
when,  served,  is  not  attractive.  Nor  is  it  palatable  when 
it  is  only  slightly  seasoned,  and  is  dried  in  the  oven  with- 
out a  covering  of  sauce  or  crumbs. 

Macaroni.  —  Break  one  quarter  of  a  pound  of  maca- 
roni in  three-inch  pieces,  and  put  into  three  pints  of  boil- 
ing salted  water.  Boil  twenty  minutes,  or  until  soft. 
Drain  in  a  colander,  and  pour  cold  water  through  it  to 
cleanse  and  keep  it  from  sticking.  Cut  into  inch  pieces. 
Lay  the  strips  on  a  board,  parallel  to  each  other,  and  cut 
through  them  all  at  once.  Put  in  a  shallow  baking-dish 
and  cover  with  a  white  sauce,  made  with  a  cup  and  a  half 
of  hot  milk,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and  one  table- 
spoonful  of  flour,  cooked  according  to  directions  for  White 
Sauce  (see  page  189).  Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt. 
Mix  two  thirds  of  a  cup  of  fine  cracker  crumbs  with  a  third 
of  a  cup  of  melted  butter,  and  sprinkle  over  the  top.  Bake 
till  the  crumbs  are  brown. 


Macaroni.  309 


If  cheese  be  liked  with  it,  use  half  a  cup  of  grated  Par- 
mesan or  any  other  dry  cheese.  Put  part  of  it  with  the 
macaroni,  and  mix  the  remainder  with  the  crumbs. 

JV0.  2.  —  Mix  two  hard-boiled  eggs,  chopped  fine,  with 
the  macaroni.  Sprinkle  each  layer  with  salt  and  pepper, 
and  add  a  little  made  mustard,  if  you  wish.  Cover  with 
milk  and  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are 
brown. 

2f0t  3. — Pour  a  rich  white  sauce  over  the  macaroni, 
and  serve  grated  cheese  on  a  separate  dish. 

Macaroni  and  Tomatoes.  —  Boil  as  above,  and  cover 
with  tomato  sauce.  Fry  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped 
onion  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Add  one  large  table- 
spoonful  of  flour  ;  when  well  mixed,  add  gradually  a  cup 
and  a  half  of  strained  tomato  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt.  Pour  over  the  macaroni,  and  warm  in  the  oven  ;  or 
cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  until  the  crumbs  are 
brown. 

Spaghetti.  —  This  is  a  variety  of  macaroni  about  one 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  diameter.  It  is  usually  served  un- 
broken. Take  a  handful  of  the  long  sticks,  plunge  the 
ends  into  rapidly  boiling  salted  water.  As  they  soften, 
bend  and  coil  the  spaghetti  in  the  water,  without  breaking 
it,  until  it  is  all  softened.  Boil  until  tender.  Drain,  pour 
cold  water  through  it,  and  serve  without  cutting,  if  you  are 
skilled  in  the  art  of  winding  it  around  your  fork,  as  the 
Italians  do.  Serve  the  same  as  macaroni,  with  cream  or 
tomato  sauce,  cheese,  and  crumbs. 

Salads. 

Green  vegetables  which  are  eaten  raw  and  dressed 
with  oil,  acids,  salt,  and  pepper,  are  classed  as  salads. 
Potatoes,  string  beans,  beets,  asparagus,  cauliflower,  and 
many  other  vegetables  which  have  been  cooked,  are  eaten 
cold  with  a  salad  dressing.  Lobster,  oysters,  salmon,  and 
other  kinds  of  cooked  fish,  eggs,  chicken,  and  delicate 
meats  are  combined  with  lettuce,  cresses,  or  celery,  and 


3t6  fhe  Boston  Cook  Book. 

salad  dressing,  and  furnish  many  appetizing  and  refreshing 
varieties  of  this  useful  form  of  food. 

There  is  a  strong  prejudice  with  many  against  the  use 
of  oil.  It  is  not  strange  when  we  remember  the  rancid 
oil  sometimes  offered  us.  Pure  olive  oil  is  seldom  to  be 
obtained,  if  we  are  to  believe  all  that  the  opposers  of  adul- 
teration assert.  No  doubt  much  that  is  sold  as  olive  oil 
is  made  from  cotton  seed ;  but  if  it  were  sold  under  its 
right  name  and  at  a  reasonable  price  there  would  be  no 
objection  to  its  use.  When  properly  purified,  and  sweet, 
it  may  be  as  wholesome  as  olive  oil.  They  are  both  veg- 
etable oils,  which  are  always  considered  more  nutritious 
than  animal  oils.  Oil  is  one  of  the  best  forms  of  fat  we 
can  use,  and  aids  in  digestion.  Oil,  when  taken  only  in 
lobster  salad  or  at  late  suppers,  as  is  often  the  case,  is 
held  accountable  for  the  horrors  and  torment  following 
such  a  use  ;  but  if  used  seasonably  and  moderately,  there 
will  be  no  ill  effects. 


French  Dressing. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 


saltspoonful  pepper. 


J4  teaspoonful  onion  juice. 
1  tablespoonful  vinegar. 


3  tablespoonfuls  oil. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  adding  oil  slowly. 

This  dressing  is  suitable  for  vegetable  and  egg  salads, 
and  is  also  used  to  marinate,  or  pickle,  a  meat  or  fish  salad. 
The  onion  may  be  omitted,  and  lemon  juice  may  be  used 
instead  of  vinegar.  A  teaspoonful  of  made  mustard 
added  to  a  French  dressing  is  liked  by  many. 


Boiled  Dressing. 


Yolks  of  3  eggs  beaten. 

1  teaspoonful  mustard. 

2  teaspoonfuls  salt. 

J^  saltspoonful  cayenne. 
2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 


2  tablespoonfuls  melted  buttei 

or  oil. 

1  cup  cream  or  milk. 
%  cup  hot  vinegar. 
Whites  of  3  eggs,  beaten  stiff. 


Cook  in  the  double  boiler  until  it  thickens  like  soft  cus- 
tard.   Stir  weU.    This  will  keep  in  a  cool  place  two  weeks, 


Salad  Dressings.  31! 


and  is  excellent  for  lettuce,  celery,  asparagus,  string  beans, 
and  cauliflower. 

Soiled  Dressing  for  Cold  Slaw.  —  Boil  half  a  cup  of 
vinegar  with  two  teaspoonfuls  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  each  of  salt  and  mustard,  and  half  a  saltspoonful 
of  pepper.  Rub  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter  to  a  cream, 
with  one  teaspoonful  of  flour,  and  pour  the  boiling  vinegar 
on  it.  Cook  five  minutes,  then  pour  it  over  one  well-beaten 
egg.  The  yolk  only  may  be  used,  and  the  white  saved  for 
clearing  coffee.  Mix  this  dressing,  while  hot,  with  one 
pint  of  red  cabbage,  shaved  or  chopped,  or  with  a  mixed 
vegetable  salad.  Cold  slaw  is  delicious  served  with  fried 
oysters  or  fish. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing. 


1  teaspoonful  mustard. 

1  teaspoonful  powdered  sugar. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

^  saltspoonful  cayenne. 


Yolks  of  2  raw  eggs. 

1  pint  olive  oil. 

2  tablespoonfuls  vinegar. 

2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice. 


Mix  the  first  four  ingredients  in  a  small  bowl.  Add  the 
eygs.  Stir  well  with  a  small  wooden  spoon.  Add  the  oil, 
a  few  drops  at  a  time,  stirring  until  it  thickens.  If  b}- 
chance  you  add  too  much  oil,  do  not  attempt  to  stir  it 
all  in  at  once,  but  take  it  up  gradually.  When  the  dress- 
ing is  thick,  thin  it  with  a  little  lemon,  then  add  oil  and 
lemon  alternately,  and  lastly  the  vinegar.  When  ready  to 
serve,  add  half  a  cup  of  whipped  cream,  if  you  like.  The 
cream  makes  it  whiter  and  thinner.  The  oil  should 
thicken  the  egg  almost  immediately,  and  the  mixture 
should  be  thick  enough  to  be  taken  up  in  a  ball  on 
the  spoon,  before  adding  the  vinegar.  Should  the 
egg  not  thicken  quickly,  and  have  a  curdled  appearance, 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  the  unbeaten  white  of  egg  or  a  few 
drops  of  vinegar  will  often  restore  the  smooth  consistency. 
Be  careful  not  to  use  too  much,  as  it  will  make  the  dressing 
thin.  The  dressing  liquefies  as  soon  as  mixed  with  vege- 
tables or  meat ;  therefore  it  should  be  made  stiff  enough 
to  keep  in  shape  until  used.  Many  prefer  to  use  a  Dover 


312  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

egg-beater,  and  others  succeed  best  with  a  fork.  The 
mixture  soon  becomes  too  hard  to  use  an  egg-beater  to 
advantage.  Lobster  coral,  dried  and  pounded  to  a  powder, 
will  give  a  Mayonnaise  a  bright  red  color.  Spinach  green, 
green  peas  mashed,  or  chopped  parsley  will  color  it  green. 
Never  mix  the  Mayonnaise  dressing  with  the  meat  or 
fish  until  ready  to  serve,  and  then  only  part  ^>f  it,  and 
spread  the  remainder  over  the  top. 

Mayonnaise  Tartare  is  simply  the  addition  of  chopped 
olives,  pickles,  parsley,  capers,  and  onions  to  the  May- 
onnaise. 

Lettuce  Salad.  —  Pick  over  and  wash  each  leaf  with- 
out breaking.  Shake  off  the  water  and  drain  in  a  net. 
Keep  the  lettuce  in  a  cool  place  until  ready  to  serve. 
Just  before  serving,  dry  between  two  towels.  Arrange  the 
leaves  in  a  salad  bowl,  the  larger  leaves  around  the  edge 
and  the  light  ones  in  the  centre.  Serve  with  boiled  dress- 
ing, or  French  dressing,  or  sugar,  salt,  and  vinegar  to 
taste.  Lettuce  should  be  served  cool,  fresh,  and  crisp. 
Never  cut  it,  as  that  causes  the  leaves  to  wilt  quickly. 
Tear  them  apart. 

Radishes  or  olives  may  be  served  with  lettuce ;  and 
when  a  brilliant  effect  is  desired,  garnish  with  a  few  nas- 
turtium blossoms.  When  lettuce  is  used  with  other  mate- 
rials, never  mix  them  until  ready  to  serve. 

Dressed  Celery.  —  Use  only  the  white,  crisp  part  of  the 
celery  stalks.  The  green  parts  may  be  made  into  a  puree 
or  used  in  soups.  Scrape  off  the  brown  discolored  part, 
and  wash  thoroughly.  Keep  in  cold  water,  and  when 
ready  to  serve,  drain  and  arrange  in  a  celery  glass.  Serve 
with  salt.  Or  cut  the  celery  in  thin  slices,  moisten  with 
French  or  Mayonnaise  dressing,  and  garnish  with  lettuce, 
cresses,  or  celery  leaves.  Lettuce  and  celery  may  be 
served  with  the  roast  if  desired. 

Cucumber  Salad.  — •  Cut  off  an  inch  from  each  end  of 
the  cucumber,  and  pare  off  a  thick  paring,  as  a  bitter  juice 
lies  near  the  skin.  Cut  in  thin  slices,  or  shave  with  a 
vegetable  cutter.  Keep  in  cold  water  until  ready  to  serve. 


313 


Drain,  and  place  in  the  bowl  with  ice.  Serve  with  salt, 
pepper,  and  vinegar,  or  with  a  French  dressing.  Young 
onions  thinly  sliced  are  sometimes  mixed  with  cucumbers. 

Cucumber  and  Tomato  Salad.  —  Place  a  bed  of  crisp 
lettuce  in  a  salad  dish,  then  a  layer  of  sliced  cucumbers, 
then  sliced  tomatoes,  and  pour  a  French  dressing,  or  a 
Mayonnaise,  over  the  whole.  Tomatoes  peeled  and  cut 
into  halves,  and  served  with  a  spoonful  of  Mayonnaise 
on  each  half,  make  an  attractive  salad. 

Potato  Salad.  —  One  pint  of  cold  boiled  potatoes,  cut 
in  half-inch  dice  or  shaved  in  thin  slices,  and  seasoned 
with  salt  and  pepper ;  the  yolk  of  one  hard-boiled  egg, 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley ,  half  a  cup 
of  cold  beet  dice,*G,nd  a  French  dressing.  Put  alternate 
layers  of  potato,  beet,  yolk  of  egg,  rubbed  through  a 
fine  strainer,  parsley,  and  French  dressing,  until  the 
materials  are  all  used.  Have  parsley  and  egg  on  the 
top,  and  leave  half  of  the  dressing  for  the  last  layer. 
Or  arrange  the  potatoes,  parsle}',  and  egg  in  the  centre 
of  the  dish,  then  a  circle  of  beets  and  lettuce  around  the 
edge,  with  French  dressing  sprinkled  over  the  whole. 
Sliced  onions,  red  cabbage  chopped,  capers,  dice  of 
turnips,  and  carrots  cut  into  fancy  shapes  or  rubbed 
through  a  strainer,  may  be  used  with  potatoes  for  a 
salad. 

No.  2.  —  One  pint  of  hot  potatoes,  mashed  or  cut  in 
slices,  half  a  cup  of  chopped  cabbage,  half  a  cup  of 
chopped  celery,  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley, 
one  cucumber  pickle,  and  one  hard-boiled  egg,  chopped 
fine.  Mix  well,  and  add  enough  of  Boiled  Dressing 
No.  2  to  moisten.  Keep  on  the  ice  until  ready  to  serve. 
Place  two  tablespoonfuls  on  a  leaf  of  lettuce,  and  serve 
in  the  leaf. 

Many  professional  cooks  prefer  to  mix  a  potato  salad 
while  the  potatoes  are  hot,  as  the  salad  looks  more 
appetizing,  will  keep  longer,  and  have  less  of  the  soggy 
peculiar  taste  than  when  made  with  cold  potatoes. 
Rubbing  a  cut  onion  or  a  little  garlic  round  the  salad 


314  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

bowl  is  sufficient  where  only  a  slight  flavor  of  onion  is 
desired.  Vegetable  salads  are  suitable  for  lunch  or  tea, 
or  may  be  served  as  a  course  at  dinner. 

Egg  Salad.  —  Boil  six  eggs  twenty  minutes.  Cut  the 
whites  in  thin  slices,  or  chop  them  very  fine.  Arrange 
a  bed  of  cresses  on  a  dish.  Make  nests  of  the  whites, 
and  put  one  whole  yolk  in  the  centre  of  each  nest ;  or  rub 
the  yolks  through  a  fine  strainer  over  the  whites.  Sprinkle 
a  French  dressing  over  the  whole.  Serve  small  balls  of 
cottage  cheese  with  the  salad. 

Oyster  Salad.  —  Steam  or  parboil  one  pint  of  oysters. 
Drain,  cool,  and  marinate  them  with  a  French  dressing. 
Serve  with  cresses,  celery,  or  lettuce,  and  a  Mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Fish  Salad.  — *0ne  quart  of  any  kind  of  cold  cooked 
fish,  flaked  and  freed  from  bones  and  skin,  and  placed  on 
a  bed  of  lettuce.  Pound  the  yolks  of  three  hard-boiled 
eggs,  and  three  sardines  (bones  and  skin  removed)  to  a 
smooth  paste.  Mix  this  paste  with  the  Boiled  or  the 
Mayonnaise  dressing,  and  pour  it  over  the  fish.  Gar- 
nish with  slices  of  lemon. 

Chicken  Salad.  —  One  pint  each  of  cold  boiled  or 
roasted  chicken  and  celery,  or  half  as  much  celery  as 


FIG.  40.     Chicken  Salad. 

chicken.  Cut  the  chicken  into  quarter-inch  dice.  Scrape, 
wash,  and  cut  the  celery  in  dice.  Mix  and  marinate  with 
a  French  dressing,  and  keep  on  the  ice  until  ready  tf> 
serve.  Make  a  Mayonnaise  dressing,  and  mix  part  of  it 
with  the  chicken ;  arrange  the  salad  in  a  dish,  pour  the 
remainder  of  the  dressing  over  it,  and  garnish  with  celery 


Salads. 


315 


leaves  and  capers,  or  lettuce,  and  yolk  of  hard-boiled  egg 
rubbed  through  a  fine  strainer. 

Lobster  Salad.  —  Cut  one  pint  of  lobster  meat  in  dice, 
season  with  a  French  dressing,  and  keep  it  on  ice  until 
ready  to  serve,  then  mix  with  half  of  the  Mayonnaise 
Make  nests  or  cups  of  the  crisp  lettuce  leaves 


FIG.  41.    Lobster  Salad. 

Put  a  large  spoonful  of  the  lobster  in  each  leaf,  with  a 
tablespoonful  of  the  Mayonnaise  on  the  top.  Garnish 
with  capers  and  pounded  coral,  sprinkled  over  the  dress- 
ing, and  with  lobster  claws  and  parsley  round  the  edge. 

Salmon  Salad.  —  Prepare  in  the  same  way  with  cooked 
or  canned  salmon,  freed  from  bones,  skin,  and  oil. 

Salad  Sandwiches.  —  Mix  a  small  quantity  of  Mayon- 
naise dressing  with  finely  chopped  lobster  or  chicken. 
Cover  a  small  slice  of  bread  with  lettuce,  then  the  salad, 
lettuce,  and  bread  again.  Wrap  them  in  tin  foil  or  oiled 
paper,  and  serve  at  picnics  or  when  travelling. 
Strawberry  Salad. 

Choose  the  heart  leaves  of  nice  head  lettuce,  and  make 
cups  of  two  leaves,  stems  crossed.  Heap  a  few  straw- 
berries in  the  centre,  dust  lightly  with  powdered  sugar, 
and  put  a  teaspoonful  of  Mayonnaise  dressing  on  each 
portion. 

Sliced  bananas  may  be  served  in  the  same  way. 


316  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


PASTRY  AND   PIES. 

PUFF  PASTE,  when  skilfully  made,  is  light  and  tender, 
and  so  delicate  that  it  cannot  be  touched  without  crashing. 
It  should  be  thoroughly  baked,  and  is  therefore  more  suit- 
able for  tarts  and  patties  and  the  upper  crust  of  pies.  Eat 
it  sparingly  ;  unless  you  have  a  good  digestion,  and  exer- 
cise freely,  never  eat  it.  It  is,  however,  less  injurious 
than  the  ordinary  pastry  seen  on  many  tables,  as  it  con- 
tains no  more  shortening  than  much  of  the  pastry  made 
with  a  "guess  measure"  of  lard.  It  is  not  so  much  the 
amount  of  fat  the  paste  contains  that  makes  it  indigestible, 
as  the  inferior  quality  of  the  fat,  such  as  rancid  butter  or 
impure  lard,  or  the  soggy,  greasy,  half-cooked  paste. 

Pastry  that  is  light,  dry,  and  flaky  is  more  easily  sepa- 
rated by  the  gastric  fluids  than  that  which  is  heavy.  Many 
housekeepers  use  lard  in  making  pastry,  as  it  is  cheaper 
than  butter,  and  makes  a  softer  and  more  tender  crust. 
Butter  is  more  wholesome,  and  is  preferable  if  you  wish  to 
make  a  brown  crust.  A  mixture  of  half  lard  and  half 
butter  answers  ve^  well  for  common  paste,  but  for  puff 
paste  butter  alone  should  be  used.  In  French  receipts  for 
puff  paste  eggs  are  considered  essential,  but  there  is  no 
necessity  for  their  use. 

It  requires  practice  to  make  puff  paste  well ;  and  as 
there  are  so  many  other  dishes  more  easily  made  and 
vastly  more  important,  it  is  better  not  to  waste  time 
and  strength  upon  it.  Let  your  ambition  as  a  house- 
keeper soar  higher  than  perfection  in  making  puff  paste. 
But  those  who  will  have  it  may  observe  the  following 
directions. 

Puff  Paste. —  One  pound  of  the  best  butter,  one  pound 
of  pastry  flour,  one  scant  teaspoonful  of  salt,  about  one 


Puff  Paste.  317 


cup  of  ice  water.  By  measure,  use  one  quart  of  flour  and 
one  pint  of  butter.  Scald  the  bowl,  then  fill  with  cold 
water.  Dip  the  hands  into  hot  and  then  into  cold  water  ; 
this  makes  bowl  and  hands  smooth,  and  keeps  the  butter 
from  sticking.  Wash  the  butter,  bjr  working  it  in  the  cold 
water,  till  soft  and  waxy.  Divide  into  four  parts ;  pat 
each  part  into  a  long  and  narrow  piece,  and  wrap  in  a 
clean  napkin. 

Have  three  shallow  oblong  pans  that  will  fit  the  one  into 
the  other.  Fill  the  largest  and  smallest  of  the  pans  with 
broken  ice.  Put  the  butter,  covered  with  the  napkin,  into 
the  other,  and  place  it  between  the  two  pans  of  ice  to 
harden.  Mix  the  salt  with  the  flour,  then  break  in  one 
quarter  of  the  butter.  Rub  with  the  tips  of  the  fingers, 
and  keep  plenty  of  flour  between  the  fingers  and  the  but- 
ter. Man}r  prefer  to  chop  it,  that  the  warmth  of  the  hand 
may  not  soften  the  butter.  When  the  butter  and  flour 
are  well  mixed,  and  fine  and  dry  like  meal,  pour  in  the  cup 
of  ice  water  slowly.  Mix  with  a  knife,  and  cut,  rather 
than  stir.  Wet  only  part  of  the  flour  at  first  and  toss  it 
to  one  side  of  the  bowl,  then  wet  another  part ;  and  when 
it  is  all  of  the  proper  consistency,  cut  and  mix  it  together 
till  it  can  be  taken  up  clean  from  the  bowl  with  the  knife. 
Add  the  last  of  the  water  cautiously,  wetting  onhr  the  dry 
flour,  and  use  less  or  more  than  the  cupful  as  the  flour 
may  require.  If  the  butter  be  softened  by  the  heat  in 
rubbing,  it  will  moisten  the  flour,  and  less  water  will  be 
required.  But  it  should  not  be  allowed  to  soften.  The 
mixture  should  be  light  and  dry,  like  separate  minute 
crumbs  of  butter  coated  with  flour. 

Use  a  large  smooth  rolling-board  and  a  glass  rolling- 
pin.  Put  half  a  cup  of  flour  in  the  dredger,  and  sprinkle 
the  middle  of  the  board  with  a  light  coating  of  flour.  Toss 
the  ball  of  paste  in  the  flour  with  a  knife  until  floured  all 
over,  then  pat  with  the  rolling-pin  into  a  flat  cake  an  inch 
thick.  Have  the  end  of  the  board  next  you,  that  you  may 
roll  the  paste  the  required  length.  Hold  the  handles  of 
the  pin  firmly,  and  roll  with  a  light  quick  stroke  as  far  as 


318  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

your  arms  will  allow,  —  the  whole  length  of  the  paste,  if 
possible,  at  every  stroke.  Do  not  attempt  to  roll  the  paste 
when  it  is  in  a  ball  or  a  cubical  form,  but  pat  it  lightly,  to 
make  as  large  and  flat  a  surface  as  possible  before  rolling. 
Roll  out  to  the  thickness  of  one  third  of  an  inch,  and  to  a 
rectangular  form.  Lay  one  of  the  quarters  of  butter  in  a 
little  flour  on  the  corner  of  the  board,  and  roll  quickly  into 
a  long  thin  piece  ;  scrape  it  up  with  a  knife,  and  lay  along 
the  middle  of  the  whole  length  of  the  paste.  Fold  over 
one  side  of  the  paste,  then  the  other,  letting  the  edges  just 
meet  in  the  middle  of  the  butter.  Do  not  pat  it  down. 
Then  fold  each  end  to  the  middle  and  double  again.  Pound 
into  a  flat  cake  and  roll  again  one  quarter  of  an  inch  thick. 
Roll  another  piece  of  butter  thin,  lay  it  on  the  paste,  fold 
the  sides  over,  then  the  ends  over,  and  then  together,  and 
repeat  the  process  with  the  remaining  pieces  of  butter. 
When  the  butter  is  all  rolled  in,  the  paste  may  be  folded, 
patted,  and  rolled  out,  two,  three,  or  seven  times,  as  your 
strength  will  permit.  Twice  is  enough  for  pies,  three  or 
four  times  for  patties ;  but  more  are  needed  for  a  vol-au- 
vent. 

When  the  butter  is  of  the  right  texture,  fine,  smooth, 
and  firm,  not  dry  and  crumbly,  and  the  mixing  and  rolling 
are  done  so  quickly  and  deftly  that  the  butter  does  not 
soften,  the  paste  will  not  stick,  and  very  little  flour  will  be 
required  in  rolling.  Do  not  strike  a  hard  blow  in  rolling, 
nor  press  the  paste  down  to  the  board,  but  roll  with  a 
light  gentle  stroke.  When  the  paste  does  not  slip  along  the 
board,  you  may  know  it  is  sticking,  and  it  must  be  lifted 
at  once,  the  board  scraped  clean,  and  floured  slightly. 

Should  the  paste  become  soft  and  sticky,  fold  again, 
and  pat  it  out  to  the  size  of  the  pan,  and  put  it  in  the 
napkin  between  the  two  pans  of  ice.  It  will  harden  in  ten 
minutes,  and  then  may  be  rolled  easily.  After  all  the  but- 
ter is  in  the  dough,  cut  in  two  pieces,  then  roll  and  fold 
one,  while  the  other  is  in  the  ice  pan.  Keep  the  board 
and  pin  wiped  dry,  and  use  only  a  little  flour,  but  use 
enough  to  keep  the  paste  from  sticking. 


Patty  Shells,  319 


Keep  the  edges  even  while  rolling,  and  fold  evenly,  that 
there  may  be  an  equal  number  of  layers  in  all  parts.  Each 
time  the  paste  is  folded  over  the  butter  a  small  amount  of 
air  is  enclosed  and  is  retained,  unless  the  fold  be  patted 
down  and  allow  the  air  to  escape  at  the  end.  These  bub- 
bles of  air  may  be  plainly  seen  when  the  ball  of  dough  is 
patted  and  rolled  out,  and  care  must  be  taken  not  to  let 
the  air  escape.  For  this  reason  roll  lightly  and  always 
from  you,  as  a  hard  motion  back  and  forth  is  more  liable 
to  break  the  bubbles.  Roll  with  a  fan-like  sweep,  a  little 
to  the  right  and  left,  to  widen  it  and  keep  the  rectangular 
shape  ;  then  roll  gentty  on  the  edge  nearest  you,  to  make 
it  of  uniform  thickness.  The  more  of  the  bubbles  you  can 
retain  in  the  paste,  the  lighter  and  more  puffy  it  will  be. 
The  number  of  folds  or  layers  of  butter  and  paste  makes 
the  paste  flaky,  but  the  amount  of  air  in  it  makes  it  rise 
and  puff  in  baking. 

The  paste  should  be  folded  and  rolled  till  no  streaks  of 
butter  can  be  seen.  After  the  last  rolling,  place  it  on  the 
ice  to  harden,  as  it  may  then  be  cut  and  shaped  more 
easil}\ 

To  Bake  Puff  Paste.  —  The  dough  should  be  icy  cold 
when  it  is  put  into  the  oven.  If  the  patties  soften  after 
being  shaped,  place  them  between  the  pans  of  ice  till  they 
are  hard.  The  oven  should  be  about  as  hot  as  for  rolls, 
with  the  heat  greater  underneath,  that  the  paste  may  rise 
nearly  to  its  full  height  before  browning  ;  then  quicken  the 
fire  to  brown  the  tops,  and  turn  the  heat  from  underneath 
or  put  a  pan  or  grate  under  to  prevent  burning.  If  the 
oven  be  too  hot,  the  paste  will  burn  before  it  is  risen ;  if 
too  slow,  it  will  melt  and  spread. 


Patty  Shells,  Tarts,  Vol-au-vents,  and  other  Forms  of 
Puff  Paste. 

There  are  two  ways  of  shaping  the  paste  for  patties 
and  tarts.  First,  roll  puff  paste  one  eighth  of  an  inch 
thick,  and  stamp  out  circular  pieces  with  a  cutter,  two  and 


320  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

one  half  inches  in  diameter.  With  a  smaller  cutter  stamp 
out  the  centres  from  half  of  these  pieces,  leaving  rings  half 
an  inch  wide.  Dip  the  cutters  in  hot  water,  and  cut 
quickly,  that  the  edges  may  not  be  pressed  together  or 
cut  unevenly.  Rub  a  little  white  of  egg  on  the  top  of 
the  large  rounds  near  the  edge,  put  on  the  rings,  and  press 
them  lightly  to  make  them  adhere,  but  be  careful  not  to 
get  any  egg  on  the  edges,  as  that  will  prevent  them  from 
rising.  Put  round  pieces  of  stale  bread,  cut  half  an  inch 
thick,  in  the  centre,  to  keep  the  paste  from  rising  and  fill- 
ing the  cavity.  Bake  on  shallow  pans  lined  with  paper, 
and  when  done  remove  the  bread  and  soft  paste  under- 
neath. Bake  the  small  pieces  cut  from  the  centre  on  a 
pan  by  themselves,  as  the}7  take  less  time  for  baking.  In 
serving  place  them  on  the  top  of  the  shells  for  a  cover. 

Another  way  is  to  roll  the  paste  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  thick,  cut  with  a  round  cutter,  and  then  with  the 
smaller  cutter  cut  nearly  through  the  centre  of  each  round, 
making  a  rim  half  an  inch  wide.  After  baking  remove  the 
centre  crust  and  soft  part  underneath,  without  breaking 
through,  as  then  the  shell  will  not  hold  any  liquid  mixture. 
Some  persons  prefer  this  method  ;  but  there  is  less  waste 
when  cut  in  the  first  wa}*",  as  the  parts  cut  out  may  be 
baked  for  covers,  and  usually  prove  to  be  the  most  delicate 
part  of  the  pa^te.  Or,  if  covers  are  not  wanted,  these  cen- 
tres may  be  rolled  out  thinner,  and  used  as  bottom  pieces. 

The  paste  for  patties  is  usually  rolled  one  fourth  of  an 
inch  thick  and  cut  with  a  plain  cutter.  Two  or  three  rims 
may  be  put  on  when  a  deeper  shell  is  desired.  Any  kind 
of  delicate  cooked  meat  or  fish  ( chicken,  sweetbreads, 
oysters,  lobster,  etc.)  may  be  cut  into  small  pieces,  and 
warmed  in  a  thick  cream  sauce  (see  page  278),  and  served 
hot  in  patty  shells,  with  a  cover  of  the  paste. 

Tarts  are  made  thinner,  and  cut  with  a  fluted  cutter. 
They  are  filled  with  jelly  or  preserves,  and  served  cold 
without  a  cover. 

Cupid's  Wells.  —  Cut  the  rounds  of  puff  paste  of  three 
or  four  different  sizes  ;  use  the  largest  one  for  the  bottom, 


Fancy  Puff  Paste.  321 

and  cut  the  centres  from  the  others,  leaving  the  rims  of 
different  widths,  and  put  them  on  the  whole  round,  with 
the  narrowest  at  the  top.  Bake,  and  fill  with  jelly. 

Vol-au-vent.  —  This  is  made  from  the  lightest  form  of 
puff  paste,  cut  to  any  size  and  shape  desired,  a  large  oval 
being  generally  preferred.  Mark  the  outline  with  an  oval 
mould  or  pan,  and  cut  quickly  with  a  knife  dipped  in  hot 
water.  Put  on  two  or  three  rims,  wetting  the  edge  of  each 
with  white  of  egg.  Make  an  oval  hoop  of  stiff  paper,  two 
inches  high,  and  slightly  larger  than  the  vol-au-vent,  and 
place  around  i^  to  prevent  scorching.  Bake  a  large  vol- 
au-vent  nearly  an  hour. 

Cakes  a  la  Polonaise.  —  Ro'  puff  paste  very  thin,  cut 
into  pieces  three  inches  square,  wet  tha  centre,  turn  each 
corner  over,  press  the  point  down  in  the  centre,  and  put 
a  very  smaU  round  of  paste  on  the  centre.  Bake,  and 
when  cool  put  dots  of  jelly  on  each  corner. 


FIG.  42.    Bow-Knots. 

Bow-Enote  —  Cut  thin  puff  paste  into  half-inch  strips, 
and  shape  them  on  the  baking-pan  into  the  form  of  a 
double  bow-knot.  When  baked,  put  jelly  on  each  loop 
of  the  bow. 

Rissoles.  —  Roll  the  scraps  of  puff  paste  thin,  and  cut 
into  rounds.  Put  a  spoonful  of  whatever  material  is  to  be 
used  in  the  centre  of  half  of  the  number,  wet  the  edges, 
and  cover  with  the  remaining  rounds,  first  cutting  a  cross 
in  the  middle,  or  stamping  out  a  small  piece  with  a  vege- 
table cutter  or  pastry  tube.  Any  kind  of  cold  meat  may 
be  cut  fine,  seasoned  to  taste,  moistened  with  a  white 
sauce,  and  used  in  the  rissoles.  Or  they  may  be  filled 
with  stewed  and  sweetened  fruit,  or  mince  meat  prepared 

21 


322  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

as  for  pies.  They  may  be  cut  into  larger  rounds,  the 
filling  placed  on  one  half,  and  the  edges  folded  together 
like  turnovers.  Bake  in  a  hot  oven. 

Plaits.  —  Roll  very  cold  puff  paste  thin,  and  cut  into 
half-inch  strips.  Braid  them  together,  and  bake  quickly. 

Cheese  Straws.  —  Roll  scraps  of  puff  paste  thin, 
sprinkle  with  grated  cheese,  and  cayenne  pepper  if  you 
like,  fold,  roll  out,  and  sprinkle  again,  and  repeat  the 

process.  Then  place  on  the 
ice  to  harden.  When  cold, 
roll  into  rectangular  shape 
one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ; 
place  it  on  a  baking-pan,  and 

PIG.  43.    Cheese  Straws.  with   a   P*Stry   CUtter   dipped 

in  hot  water,  cut  into  strips 

four  or  five  inches  long  and  less  than  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
wide.  Bake,  and  serve  piled  cob-house  fashion.  Some- 
times, when  the  paste  is  very  hard,  they  are  cut  as  narrow 
as  possible,  laid  on  the  pan  in  groups  of  five  or  six,  with 
one  straw  laid  over  the  middle  to  represent  a  bundle  of 
straws,  and  baked  in  that  form. 

Pies. 

For  Pies,  roll  the  puff  paste  out  a  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick,  then  roll  up,  and  cut  from  the  end  of  the  roll.  Turn 
each  piece  on  the  side,  so  that  the  folds  show  in  rings,  and 
pat  out  flat,  then  roll  to  fit  the  plate.  Keep  the  paste  in  a 
circular  form,  and  roll  evenly  in  every  direction.  Make 
slightly  larger  than  the  plate,  as  the  paste  shrinks  when 
taken  from  the  board,  and  should  be  fulled  in  rather  than 
stretched  to  the  required  size.  After  a  little  practice  it 
is  just  as  easy  to  judge  of  the  amount  of  paste  required  for 
one  crust,  and  roll  it  in  this  way  to  fit  the  plate,  as  to  roll 
so  large  a  quantity  that  the  edges  have  to  be  trimmed  off 
and  mixed  with  the  remainder  of  the  paste.  Roll  some  of 
the  paste,  and  cut  into  strips  three  quarters  of  an  inch  wide  ; 
wet  the  under  crust  and  place  the  rim  on  the  edge.  Use 
one  rim  for  pies  which  are  to  be  covered,  and  two,  if  you 


Plain  Pastry.  323 


like,  for  pies  without  an  upper  crust.  Fill  the  plate  with 
the  material  to  be  used.  Roll  the  upper  crust  larger  than 
the  plate,  make  a  cut  in  the  centre  to  let  the  steam  escape, 
wet  the  rims,  put  the  crust  on  the  edge  even  with  the 
rim  and  slightly  fuller  in  the  centre,  to  allow  for  shrinking 
in  baking ;  otherwise  the  crust,  as  it  is  forced  up  by  the 
steam  within,  will  draw  away  from  the  edge. 

Wet  every  spot  of  the  rim  and  edge,  and  press  closely 
but  lightly  together,  to  keep  the  juices  from  boiling  out. 
All  pies,  meat  pies  especially,  with  a  top  crust  should  have 
several  holes  cut  in  the  crust  to  let  the  steam  escape. 
All  fruit  pies  are  better  flavored  if  made  with  fresh,  rather 
than  stewed,  fruits.  If  to  be  filled  with  juicy  fruit,  or 
cream,  they  are  more  wholesome  prepared  as  follows: 
Bake  the  two  crusts  separately,  stew  the  fruit,  fill,  and  put 
the  two  together.  Or  fill  with  a  mock  filling  of  pieces  of 
clean  cloth,  bake,  remove  the  cloth,  and  just  before  serving 
fill  with  the  prepared  fruit 

Pies  should  bake  from  half  to  three  quarters  of  an  hour, 
or  till  brown.  Use  tin  plates,  as  pies  bake  better  on  the 
bottom  in  them.  No  greasing  is  needed,  and  the  pies 
should  be  changed  to  earthen  plates  as  soon  as  done. 

Pastry  for  One  Pie.  —  One  heaping  cup  of  pastry 
flour,  one  saltspoonful  of  baking-powder,  one  saltspoon- 
fid  of  salt,  and  from  one  third  to  one  half  of  a  cup  of 
butter  and  lard  mixed.  Mix  the  baking-powder  and  salt 
with  the  flour,  and  rub  in  the  lard.  Mix  quite  stiff  with 
cold  water.  Roll  out,  put  the  butter  on  the  paste  in  little 
pieces,  and  sprinkle  with  flour.  Fold  over,  and  roll  out. 
Roll  up  like  a  jelly  roll.  Divide  in  two  parts,  and  roll  to 
fit  the  plate. 

Cream  Paste.  —  Mix  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and 
half  a  saltspoonful  of  soda  with  one  cup  of  cream,  and 
stir  in  flour  enough  to  mix  to  a  stiff  paste.  Roll  half 
an  inch  thick.  Cut  half  a  cup  of  butter  into  small  pieces, 
and  put  it  on  the  paste.  Sprinkle  with  flour,  fold  and  roll 
out  thin  ;  roll  up,  cut  a  piece  from  the  end,  and  roll  to  fit 
the  plate. 


324  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Plain  Paste.  (Mrs.  Tilton.) — Beat  the  white  of 
one  egg  with  one  tablespoonful  of  lard.  Work  it  into  one 
quart,  of  flour  with  the  hands,  till  fine  as  meal.  Add 
about  one  cup  of  ice  water.  Roll  out,  and  put  half  a 
pound  of  butter  on  the  paste  in  little  pieces,  either  all  at 
once  or  half  of  it  at  a  time.  Dredge  lightly  with  flour. 
Fold  the  edges  over,  roll  up,  pat,  and  roll  out. 

Lemon  Pie,  No.  1.  —  Mix  one  heaping  tablespoonful 
of  cornstarch  with  one  cup  of  sugar ;  add  one  scant  cup 
of  boiling  water,  and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  butter,  the  juice  of  one  large  lemon,  and  one 
egg,  well  beaten.  Bake  between  two  crusts. 
'  No.  "2.  (Miss  M.  L.  Clarke.)  —  Mix  three  table- 
spoonfuls  of  cornstarch,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
cup  and  a  half  tf  sugar ;  add  one  pint  of  boiling  water, 
and  boil  five  minutes.  Add  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of 
two  large  lemons.  When  slightly  cooled,  add  the  well- 
beaten  yolks  of  four  eggs,  then  the  whites  beaten  stiff. 
Cut  them  in  as  for  an  omelet.  Line  the  plate  with  crust 
and  rim,  add  the  filling,  and  bake  about  twenty  min- 
utes. If  desired,  cover  when  cool  with  a  meringue,  made 
with  the  whites  of  three  eggs  and  one  third  of  a  cup  of 
sugar. 

No.  3.  (Miss  Hammond.) —  Mix  one  cup  and  a  half 
of  sugar  and  two  heaping  teaspoonfuls  of  flour ;  add  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs  and  the  whites  of  two  eggs, 
beaten  stiff,  the  grated  rind  of  one  and  the  juice  of  two 
lemons,  and  one  cup  of  ice  water.  Line  two  plates  with 
a  crust  and  rim,  fill,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Make 
a  meringue  with  the  whites  of  four  eggs  and  one  cup  of 
powdered  sugar. 

Chess  Pie.  —  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs  until  light 
and  thick  ;  add  half  a  cup  of  fine  granulated  sugar,  and 
beat  again  ;  add  one  third  of  a  cup  of  butter  rubbed  to  a 
cream,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla.  Bake  on  a  plate 
lined  and  bordered  with  puff  paste.  When  done,  cover 
with  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten  stiff,  and  mixed  with 
half  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar  and  one  teaspoonful  of 


Pies.  325 

lemon  juice.  Brown  slightly,  and  cut  while  hot,  but  serve 
cold. 

Apple  Pie.  —  Cut  sour  apples  in  quarters,  remove  the 
cores  and  skins,  and  cut  each  quarter  in  two  pieces 
lengthwise.  Fill  the  plate,  putting  the  pieces  of  apple 
round  the  edge  in  regular  order,  and  piling  slightly  in 
the  middle.  They  will  cook  as  quickly  as  when  sliced, 
though  many  are  unwilling  to  believe  it.  When  the  apples 
are  dry,  add  a  little  water.  Cover  with  crust  without  wet- 
ting the  edges,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour.  When  done, 
boil  three  heaping  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  one  of 
water  five  minutes.  Add  the  grated  rind  of  one  quarter 
of  a  lemon,  or  one  tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice.  When 
the  pie  is  done,  remove  to  an  earthen  plate,  pour  this  syrup 
through  a  cut  in  the  top,  or  raise  the  upper  crust  and 
pour  it  over  the  fruit,  or  simply  sprinkle  with  sugar  and 
bits  of  butter.  To  sweeten  before  baking,  sprinkle  half  a 
cup  of  sugar,  mixed  with  a  little  spice  or  grated  lemon 
rind  over  the  apple.  Bind  the  edge  of  the  crusts  with 
a  narrow  strip  of  wet  cloth,  to  keep  in  the  syrup.  Or  wet 
the  edge  of  the  lower  crust,  sprinkle  with  flour,  put  on  a 
rim,  wet  and  flour  that  also ;  fill  with  fruit,  sweeten,  put  on 
the  upper  crust,  and  press  the  edges  firmly  together. 

Rhubarb  Pie.  —  Peel  the  rhubarb,  cut  into  inch  pieces, 
pour  boiling  water  over  it,  and  let  it  stand  ten  minutes. 
Drain,  fill  the  plate,  sprinkle  thickly  with  on&  cup  of 
sugar,  dot  with  bits  of  butter,  cover  with  a  crust,  and 
bake. 

Squash  Pie.  —  One  cup  and  a  half  of  stewed  and 
sifted  squash,  not  watery,  but  dry  and  mealy,  one  cup  of 
boiling  milk,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  saltspoonful  of  cinnamon,  and  one  egg  beaten 
slightly.  Mix  in  the  order  given.  Line  a  plate  with 
paste,  put  on  a  rim,  and  fill  with  the  squash.  Pumpkin 
pies  are  made  in  the  same  wa}\ 

Custard  Pie.  —  Beat  three  eggs  slightly,  add  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one 
saltspoonful  of  nutmeg,  if  liked.  Pour  on  three  cups  of 


326  The  Botion  Cook  Book. 

scalded  milk;  strain  into  a  deep  plate,  lined  with  paste. 
Bake  slowly,  and  the  moment  it  puffs  and  a  knife  blade 
comes  out  clean,  it  is  done. 

Berry  Pies.  — Pick  over  the  berries  and  sprinkle 
slightly  with  flour  /  add  sugar  to  taste,  — about  one  cup 
for  a  quart  of  fruit.  Do  not  spoil  the  fruit  flavor  by 
using  spices.  Bake  in  a  deep  plate,  with  two  crusts. 

Mince  Meat  for  Pies. 


1  cup  chopped  meat. 
1^2  cup  raisins. 
!)•£  cup  currants. 
13*2  cup  brown  sugar. 
%  cup  molasses,  or 
1  cup  granulated  sugar. 
3  cups  chopped  apples. 

1  cup  meat  liquor. 

2  teaspoonf  uls  salt. 


2  teaspoonfuls  cinnamon. 
3^  teaspoonf  ul  mace. 

3^  teaspoonf  ul  powdered  cloves. 
1  lemon  (grated  rind  and  juice). 
34  piece  citron. 
3^  cup  brandy. 
34  cup  wine. 

3  teaspoonfuls  rose  water. 


Mix  in  the  order  given.  Use  enough  of  the  meat  liquor 
to  make  quite  moist.  Substitute  one  cup  of  cider  for  the 
wine  and  brandy,  if  you  prefer.  Cook  it  in  a  porcelain 
kettle  until  the  apple  and  raisins  are  soft.  Do  not  add 
the  wine,  brandy,  and  rose  water  until  the  mixture  is 
cooked.  One  cup  of  chopped  suet  or  half  a  cup  of  butter 
may  be  added  if  preferred ;  but  if  the  fat  on  the  meat  be 
used,  or  the  pies  are  to  be  eaten  cold,  suet  is  not  needed. 
Meat  from  the  vein  or  the  lower  part  of  the  round  that  has 
a  little  fat  and  no  bone  is  the  best  for  pie  meat. 

Plain  Mince  Pie.  —  One  cup  of  chopped  meat  (cold 
steak  or  roast  beef  which  has  been  simmered  till  tender), 
two  cups  of  chopped  apple,  one  teaspoonful  each  of  salt, 
allspice,  and  cinnamon,  one  cup  of  brown  sugar,  half  a 
cup  of  small  whole  raisins,  half  a  cup  of  currants,  mois- 
tened with  one  cup  of  cider,  or  one  cup  of  sweet  pickle 
vinegar,  or  half  a  cup  of  water,  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  two 
or  three  spoonfuls  of  any  remnants  of 'jelly  or  preserve. 

Eccles  Pie.  (Miss  Itarnes.)  —  Two  cups  of  seedless 
raisins  and  half  a  pound  of  citron,  chopped  very  fine ; 


Pies.  327 

add  one  cup  of  sugar,  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  a  little 
ivater.  Stew  five  minutes.  Line  small  patty  pans  with 
puff  paste,  fill  with  the  fruit  mixture,  cover,  and  bake. 

Fanchonnettes.  —  Line  small  patty  pans  with  puff  paste, 
rolled  very  thin ;  fill  them  with  lemon  prepared  as  for 
Lemon  Pie,  No.  1;  cover  with  a  thin  crust,  and  bake 
quickly.  Or  fill  them  as  directed  for  Lemon  Pie,  No.  2, 
and  bake  without  an  upper  crust. 

Grandmother's  Pumpkin  Pies. 


2  cups  pumpkin. 

2  cups  milk. 

1  egg  or  cracker. 

j^  teaspoonful  ginger. 


%  cup  sugar. 

i^  cup  molasses. 

)^  teaspoonful  salt. 

2  tablespoonfuls  raisins. 


Bake  the.  pumpkin ;  it  will  be  drier  than  when  stewed. 
Boil  the  raisins  half  an  hour;  let  the  water  boil  away, 
slip  out  the  seeds,  and  add  the  pulp  to  the  pumpkin. 
Scald  the  milk,  and  mix  it  with  the  pumpkin ;  add  the 
seasoning,  molasses,  and  egg  last.  Bake  in  a  plate  lined 
and  bordered  with  crust. 

Marlboro  Pie. 


^  cup  cracker  crumbs. 
Whites  of  4  eggs. 
4  tablespoons  powdered  sugar 
i  Juice  of       lemon. 


2  cups  hot  apple  sauce. 
2  tablespoonfuls  butter. 
Yolks  of  4  eggs. 
1  YL  cups  sugar. 
1  lemon. 

Stew  the  apples  and,  if  lumpy,  sift  them.  Stir  in  the 
butter  while  the  apples  are  hot.  Add  the  sugar  to  the 
beaten  yolks  and  beat  well;  mix  with  the  cold  apple, 
then  stir  in  the  lemon  and  half  of  the  rind  grated  and 
the  crumbs.  Line  and  rim  a  plate  with  rich  pastry,  fill, 
and  bake,  and  when  done,  cover  with  the  meringue  made 
with  the  whites,  powdered  sugar,  and  lemon  juice.  Color 
slightly,  and  serve  cold. 


328  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


PUDDING-  SAUCES. 


Hard  Sauce  (for  Hot  Puddings). 

V       $£  cup  butter.  I  %  teaspoonf  ul  lemon  or  vanilla, 

i£  cup  powdered  sugar.  |     or  a  little  nutmeg. 

Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream  in  a  warm  bowl ;  add  the 
sugar  gradualty,  then  the  flavoring.  Pack  it  smoothly  in  a 
small  dish,  and  stamp  it  with  a  butter  mould  or  the 
bottom  of  a  figured  glass.  Keep  it  on  ice  till  very  hard. 
Or  pile  it  lightly  on  a  small  fancy  dish,  and  you  may  call 
it  Snowdrift  Sauce. 


Lemon  Sauce. 


2  cups  hot  water. 
1  cup  sugar. 


Grated  rind  and  juice  of  1  lemon. 
1  tablespoonful  butter. 


3  heaping  teasp.  cornstarch. 

Boil  the  water  and  sugar  five  minutes,  and  add  the  corn- 
starch,  wet  in  a  little  cold  water.1  Cook  eight  or  ten 
minutes,  stirring  often,  and'acbd  the  lemon  rind  and  juice 
and  the  butter.  Stir  until  the  fcutter  is  melted,  and  serve 
at  once.  If  the  water  boil  away  and  the  sauce  become  too 
thick,  add  more  hot  water  till  of  the  right  consistency. 

Whipped  Cream  Sauce. 

1  cup  cream  I     %  cup  powdered  sugar. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  lemon  or  vanilla.      |      White  of  1  egg. 

Mix  the  cream,  vanilla,  and  sugar,  and  whip  it  without 
skimming  off  the  froth.  Add  the  beaten  white  of  the  egg 
and  beat  all  together.  Serve  it  on  an}'  pudding  usually 
eaten  with  sugar  and  cream. 

1  Or  mix  the  sugar  well  with  the  conutaivh  and  add  the  boiling  water 


Pudding  Sauces.  329 


Apricot  Sauce. 

1  cup  apricot  juice.  j         1  teaspoonful  cornstarch  or 

%  cup  sugar.  flour. 

Boil  all  together  five  minutes  and  strain.     Use  any  kind 
of  fruit  juice  or  syrup  in  the  same  manner. 

Creamy  Sauce. 
%  cup  butter.  I         2  tablespoonfuls  wine, 


%  cup  powdered  sugar,  sifted.       |         2  tablespoonfuls  cream. 

Cream  the  butter ;  add  the  sugar  slowly,  then  the  wine 
and  cream.  Beat  well,  and  just  .before  serving  place 
the  bowl  over  hot  water  and  stir  till  smooth  and  creamy, 
but  not  enough  to  melt  the  butter.  When  the  wine  and 
cream  are  added,  the  sauce  has  a  curdled  appearance. 
This  is  removed  by  thorough  beating,  and  by  heating  just 
enough  to  blend  the  materials  smoothly.  It  is  not  intended 
to  be  a  hot  sauce  ;  and  if  the  sauce  become  oily  in  heating, 
place  the  bowl  in  cold  water  and  beat  again  until  smooth 
like  thick  cream.  Omit  the  wine  if  desired,  and  use  half 
a  cup  of  cream,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  lemon  or  vanitta. 
Serve  on  any  hot  pudding. 

Foamy  Sauce,  No.  1. 

Whites  of  2  eggs.  I  *  CUP  boiling  milk. 

1  cup  sugar.  Juice  of  1  lemon. 

Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  till  foamy,  but  not  dry ;  add 
the  sugar,  beat  well ;  add  the  milk  and  lemon  juice. 


Foamy  Sauce,  No.  2. 


^  cup  butter. 

1  cup  powdered  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


2  tablespoonfuls    wine,  or  fruit 
juice,  or  syrup, 
cup  boiling  water. 


White  of  1  egg  beate*  to  a  foam. 

Cream  the  butter;  add  the  sugar,  vanilla,  and  wine. 
Just  before  serving  add  the  boiling  water,  stir  well,  then 
add  the  egg,  and  beat  till  foamy. 


33O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Half  a  cup  of  jelly  melted  in  one  fourth  of  a  cup  of  boil- 
ing water  and  poured  into  the  butter  and  sugar  mixture, 
makes  a  pleasing  variety. 

Yellow  Sauce.     (Mrs.  Towne.) 


*4  pound  butter. 

^  pound  brown  sugar. 


1  gill  brandy  or  wine. 
A  little  nutmeg. 


Yolk  of  1  egg. 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  and  stir  over  hot  water 
till  liquid,  then  add  the  yolk  of  the  egg,  beaten.  Stir  till  it 
thickens  ;  add  brandy  or  wine  and  nutmeg,  and  serve. 


Wine  Sauce. 


1  cup  boiling  water. 

1  tablespoonful  cornstarch. 

%  cup  butter. 


legg. 

1  saltspoonf  ul  grated  nu+meg. 

%  cup  wine. 


1  cup  powdered  sugar. 
Wet  the  cornstarch  in  cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  boil- 
ing water.  Boil  ten  minutes.  Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream  ; 
add  the  sugar  gradually,  then  the  egg,  well  beaten,  and 
the  nutmeg.  When  the  cornstarch  has  cooked  ten  min- 
utes, add  the  wine,  and  pour  the  whole  into  the  butter, 
sugar,  and  egg,  stirring  until  well  mixed. 

Caramel  Sauce.  (Miss  Parloa.)  —  Put  half  a  cup  of 
sugar  in  an  omelet  pan,  and  stir  over  the  fire  till  melted 
and  light  brown.  Add  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water  and 
simmer  ten  minutes. 

Molasses  Sauce.  —  Mix  one  cup  of  molasses,  the  juice 
of  one  lemon  or  one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar,  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil 
ten  minutes  and  serve  with  plain  rice  or  apple  pudding. 

Plain  Pudding  Sauce.  (Miss  Hammond.)  —  Melt 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter;  a'dd  two  tablespoon- 
fuls  of  flour,  and  one  cup  and  a  half  of  hot  water.  Cook 
as  for  drawn  butter ;  then  add  one  cup  and  a  half  of 
brown  sugar.  Stir  till  the  sugar  is  melted,  add  two  tea- 
spoonfuls  of  lemon  juice  and  a  little  nutmeg. 


Hot  Puddings.  331 


HOT  PUDDINGS. 


Cottage  Pudding. 


2  heaping  cups  flour. 

3>£  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  egg. 


%  cup  sugar. 

3  tablespoonf  uls  melted  butter. 

1  cup  milk. 


Mix  the  salt  and  baking-powder  with  the  flour.  Beat 
the  egg,  add  the  sugar,  melted  butter,  and  milk,  and  stir 
into  the  flour.  Bake  in  a  shallow  dish.  Serve  with  lemon, 
wine,  or  foamy  sauce. 

Dutch  Apple  Cake. 

This  is  used  as  a  pudding  (see  page  86).  It  is  easily 
prepared,  attractive,  and  delicious,  served  with  lemon 
sauce. 

Scalloped  Apple,  or  Apple  Sandwich. 

Mix  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  half  a  saltspoonful  of  cin- 
namon or  the  grated  rind  of  half  a  lemon.  Melt  half  a 
cup  of  butter,  and  stir  it  into  one  pint  of  soft  bread  crumbs; 
prepare  three  pints  of  sliced  apples.  Butter  a  pudding- 
dish,  put  in  a  layer  of  crumbs,  then  sliced  apple,  and 
sprinkle  with  sugar ;  then  another  layer  of  crumbs,  apple, 
and  sugar  until  the  materials  are  used.  Have  a  thick  layer 
of  crumbs  on  the  top.  When  the  apples  are  not  juicy,  add 
half  a  cup  of  cold. water;  and  if  not  tart  apples,  add  the 
juice  of  half  a  lemon.  Bake  about  an  hour.  Cover  at 
first,  to  prevent  burning.  Serve  with  cream.  Ripe  ber- 
ries and  other  acid  fruits  may  be  used  instead  of  apples, 
and  oatmeal  or  cracked  wheat  mush  in  the  place  of  bread 
crumbs. 


332  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Steamed  Apple  Pudding,  or  Dumpling.    (Mrs.  S.  M  Bailey. ) 

Fill  a  two-quart  granite  pan  two  thirds  full  of  sour  apples 
cut  into  eighths,  and  add  half  a  cup  of  water.  Butter  the 
edge  of  the  pan  and  the  inside  of  the  cover.  Cover  with 
a  biscuit  crust,  made  of  one  pint  of  flour,  three  level  teasp. 
of  baking-powder,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  ;  wet 
with  one  scant  cup  of  milk,  just  stiff  enough  to  roil  out. 
Cover  closely  and  steam  one  hour,  or  cook  on  top  of  the 
stove  half  an  hour,  with  a  trivet  under  the  pan  to  keep  the 
apple  from  burning.  Serve  at  once  with  lemon  or  molasses 
sauce.  Put  a  large  round  plate  over  the  pan  ;  invert  them, 
leaving  the  crust  on  the  plate  with  the  apples  at  the  top. 
Cut  like  a  pie. 

The  crust  may  be  shortened,  the  apples  sweetened  with 
molasses,  and  then  baked  in  the  oven ;  and  it  is  called 
Pandowdy. 

Steamed  Carrot  Pudding.     (Mr.  Cole.) 


%  pound  flour. 

3^  pound  chopped  suet. 

%  pound  currants. 


pound  sugar, 
pound  grated  carrot, 
teaspoonful  salt. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  steam  in  a  buttered  mould 
three  hours.     Serve  with  wine  sauce. 


Bread  and  Fruit  Pudding. 

Soak  one  cup  of  stale  bread  crumbs  in  one  pint  of  hot 
milk;  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  and  one  saltspoonful  of  spice. 
When  cool,  add  three  eggs,  well  beaten.  Add  two  cups 
of  fruit,  either  chopped  apples,  raisins,  currants,  canned 
peaches,  or  apricots,  —  one;  or  a  mixture  of  two  or  more 
varieties.  When  using  canned  fruit,  drain  it  from  the 
syrup,  and  use  the  latter  in  making  a  sauce.  Vaiy  the 
sugar  according  to  the  fruit.  Turn  into  a  buttered  pud- 
ding-mould, and  steam  two  hours. 

No.  2.  —  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  one  cup  and 


Apple  Puddings.  333 


a  half  of  sugar,  the  grated  rind  said  juice  of  one  lemon, 
one  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one  cup  each  of  chopped  apples, 
currants,  and  grated  bread  crumbs.  Mix  well,  then*add 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff.  Boil  in  a  buttered 
pudding-mould  three  hours,  or  bake  two  hours.  Serve 
with  lemon  or  foamy  sauce. 

JEve's  Pudding.  —  Add  half  a  cup  of  butter  or  one  cup 
of  chopped  suet  to  the  preceding  rule. 

Bird's-Nest  Pudding. 

Six  or  seven  apples,  cored  and  pared,  and  put  into  a 
buttered  pudding-dish.  Mix^we  teaspoonfuls  of  flour  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  wet  it  to  a  smooth  paste  with  cold 
milk,  and  add  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  well  beaten,  then 
the  whites,  and  more  milk,  using  one  pint  in  all.  Pour  it 
over  the  apples,  and  bake  one  hour.  Serve  with  hard  or 
creamy  sauce. 

Apple  Tapioca  Pudding. 

Pick  over  and  wash  three  quarters  of  a  cup  of  pearl 
tapioca.  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water  over  it,  and 
cook  in  the  double  boiler  till  transparent ;  stir  often,  and 
add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Core  and  pare  seven 
apples.  Put  them  in  a  round  baking-dish,  and  fill  the 
cores  with  sugar  and  lemon  juice.  Pour  the  tapioca  over 
them  and  bake  till  the  apples  are  very  soft.  Serve  hot  or 
cold,  with  sugar  and  cream.  A  delicious  variation  may 
be  made  by  using  half  pears,  or  canned  quinces,  and  half 
apples. 

Apple  Me'ringue. 

Core,  pare,  and  bake  seven  apples,  on  a  shallow  plate, 
till  soft,  but  not  till  broken.  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs; 
add  three  tablespoonfids  of  sugar,  a  little  salt,  and  on& 
pint  of  scalded  milk.  Pour  it  over  the  baked  apples. 
Bake  till  the  custard  is  firm.  When  cool,  add  a  meringue 
made  of  the  whites  of  three  eggs,  beaten  till  foamy ;  add 
three  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  gradually,  flavor 


334  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

with  lemon,  and  beat  till  stiff.  Set  the  pudding-dish  on  a 
board  in  the  oven,  and  brown  the  meringue.  The  whites 
of  eggs  for  a  meringue  should  be  cool,  and  beaten  till  light 
and  foamy,  but  not  stiff ;  then  add  sugar  gradually,  in  the 
proportion  of  one  tablespoonful  for  each  egg,  and  beat  till 
stiff  enough  to  keep  its  shape. 

No.  2. — Pare  and  core  the  apples,  fill  the  cavity  with 
\  sugar  and  spice  mixed,  or  with  sugar,  butter,  and  lemon. 
Bake  the  apples,  cover  with  a  meringue  made  with  the 
whites  of  the  eggs ;  make  the  yolks  into  a  boiled  custard 
for  a  sauce,  or  serve  with  cream.  This  may  be  served  hot 
or  cold.  Brown  the  meringue  by  holding  a  hot  stove  cover 
over  it. 

Apple  Porcupine. 

Arrange  eight  or  ten  apples  (baked  as  in  the  preceding 
rule,  or  cored,  pared,  and  cooked  carefully  in  syrup,  see 
Compote  of  Apples)  in  a  mound  on  a  dish  for  serving.  Put 
quince  jelly  among  the  apples.  Cover  with  a  meringue 
made  of  the  whites  of  four  eggs  and  half  a  cup  of  pow- 
dered sugar.  Stick  blanched  almonds  into  the  meringue. 
Put  the  dish  on  a  board  in  the  oven,  and  brown  slightly, 
or  hold  a  hot  iron  over  it.  Serve  with  boiled  custard 
sauce. 

Friar's  Omelet. 

Steam  tart  apples,  mash,  and  drain  quite  dry.  Take 
one  pint  of  the  pulp,  and  mix  with  it  the  yolks  of  three 
well-beaten  eggs,  one  cup  of  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  half 
a  lemon  /  then  add  the  beaten  whites.  Brown  one  cup  of 
soft,  fine  bread  crumbs  in  one  tablespoonful  of  butter  in 
an  omelet  pan.  Butter  a  plain  mould  thickly  with  cold 
butter,  and  sprinkle  over  the  bottom  and  sides  as  many  of 
the  browned  crumbs  as  will  adhere.  Fill  with  the  prepared 
apple  ;  cover  with  buttered  crumbs,  and  bake  twenty  min- 
utes. When  cold,  turn  out  on  a  platter,  and  serve  with 
cream.  It  may  be  baked  in  a  pudding-dish,  and  eaten 
hot. 


Rice  Pudding.  355 


Apricots  a  la  Neige. 

Boil  one  cup  of  rice  fifteen  minutes,  or  steam  till  tender 
(see  page  307).  Wring  small  pudding-cloths  (one  third 
of  a  yard  square)  out  of  hot  water,  and  lay  them  over  a 
small  half-pint  bowl.  Spread  the  rice  one  third  of  an  inch 
thick  over  the  cloth.  Put  an  apricot  in  the  centre,  filling 
the  cavity  in  each 
half-apricot  with 
rice.  Draw  the 
cloth  around  till 
the  apricot  is 
covered  smooth- 
ly With  the  rice.  FIO.U.  Apple  Snowballs. 

Tie  tightly,  and 

steam  ten  minutes.  Remove  the  cloth  carefully,  and  turn 
the  balls  out  on  a  platter,  and  serve  with  apricot  sauce. 
This  amount  of  rice  will  make  four  or  five  balls.  Apples, 
cored  and  pared,  may  be  substituted  for  apricots.  They 
should  be  steamed  half  an  hour.  These  are  more  whole- 
some than  apple  or  fruit  dumplings,  made  with  a  flour 
crust.  They  are  called  Apple  Snowballs. 

Plain  Rice  Pudding. 

Half  a  cup  of  well- washed  rice,  half  a  cup  of  sugar, 
a  little  salt,  and  one  quart  of  milk.  Soak  half  an  hour. 
Bake  about  two  hours,  slowly  at  first  till  the  rice  has  soft- 
ened and  thickened  the  milk ;  then  let  it  brown  slightly. 
This  is  creamy  and  delicious,  though  it  is  often  called 
Poor  Man's  Pudding.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

No.  2.  —  Three  tablespoonfuls  of  rice,  a  little  salt,  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  one  quart  of  milk,  and  three  sour 
apples,  pared  and  quartered,  or  one  cup  of  small,  whole 
raisins.  Put  all  into  a  deep  pudding-dish,  well  buttered. 
Cover,  and  bake  slowly  four  or  five  hours,  till  the  milk  is 
all  absorbed  and  the  rice  is  red  or  colored.  Serve  hot 
with  butter. 


336  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Rice  and  Fruit  Pudding. 

•\  Steam  one  scant  cup  of  rice  in  two  cups  of  boiling 
water,  in  the  double  boiler,  thirty  minutes.  Add,  while 
hot,  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  scant  teaspoonful  of 
salt,  one  beaten  egg,  and  half  a  cup  of  sugar.  Cook  -five 
minutes.  Butter  a  plain  pudding-mould,  sprinkle  it  with 
bread  crumbs,  or  line  with  macaroons.  Put  in  a  layer  of 
rice  half  an  inch  thick,  then  a  layer  of  apricots  or  peaches 
or  pineapple,  then  rice,  fruit,  etc.,  till  the  mould  is  full,  hav- 
ing crumbs  on  the  top.  Bake  twenty  minutes  in  a  mod- 
erate oven.  Turn  out  on  a  platter,  and  serve  with  boiled 
custard  flavored  with  vanilla,  or  with  an  apricot  sauce. 

Rice  Souffle. 

Boil  half  a  cup  of  rice  in  one  quart  of  boiling  salted 
water  fifteen  or  twenty  minutes,  and  drain  it.  Put  the 
rice  in  the  double  boiler  with  one  pint  of  milk,  cook  ten 
minutes  ;  add  the  yolks  of  four  or  six  eggs  beaten  with 
four  or  six  tablespoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar  and  one 
tablespoonful  of  butter.  Cook  five  minutes,  and  set  away 
to  cool  ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  lemon. 
Half  an  hour  before  serving,  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs 
stiff,  and  cut  them  lightly  into  the  cooked  mixture.  Bake 
in  a  well-buttered  pudding-dish  half  an  hour.  Serve  im- 
mediately with  creamy  sauce. 


Rice  Custard. 

Soak  half  a  cup  of  cold  cooked  rice  in  one  pint  of  hot 
milk  till  every  grain  is  distinct.  Add  the  yolks  of  two 
eggs,  beaten  with  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  sugar  and  a  pinch 
of  salt,  and  cook  like  soft  custard.  While  still  hot,  stir 
in  the  whites,  beaten  stiff,  and  set  away  to  cool.  Or  turn 
Jhe  hot  custard  into  a  dish,  and  when  cool  cover  with 
a  meringue  of  the  whites.  Brown  slightly,  and  serve 
cold. 


Souffle  Puddings.  337 

Custard  Souffle.     (Miss  Parloa.)      . 

Rub  two  scant  tablespoonfuls  of  butter  to  a  cream  ;  add 
two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  an,d  pour  on  gradually  one 
cup  of  hot  milk.  Cook  eight  minutes  in  the  double  boiler, 
stirring  often.  Separate  the  yolks  and  whites  of  four 
eggs,  and  put  the  whites  away  in  the  ice-chest.  Beat  the 
yolks,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar,  and  add  to  the 
milk,  and  set  away  to  cool.  Half  an  hour  before  serving, 
Deat  the  whites  stiff,  and  cut  them  in  lightly.  Bake  in  a 
buttered  pudding-dish  in  a  moderate  oven  thirty  minutes, 
and  serve  at  once  with  creamy  sauce.  This  mixture  may 
be  put  into  buttered  paper  cases,  and  baked  ten  or  fifteen 
minutes.  Serve  in  the  papers. 

Sponge  Pudding.     (Miss  Alice  Walcott.) 


%  cup  sugar. 
i-o  cup  flour. 
l~pint  milk,  boiled. 


^  cup  butter. 
Yolks  of  5  eggs. 
Whites  of  5  eggs. 


Mix  the  sugar  and  flour,  wet  with  a  little  cold  milk,  and 
stir  into  the  boiling  milk.  Cook  until  it  thickens  and  is 
smooth ;  add  the  butter,  and  when  well  mixed  stir  it  into 
the  well-beaten  }Tolks  of  the  eggs,  then  add  the  whites 
beaten  stiff.  Bake  in  cups,  or  in  a  shallow  dish,  or  in 
paper  cases,  in  a  hot  oven.  Place  the  dish  in  a  pan  of 
hot  water  while  in  the  oven.  Serve  with  creamy  sauce. 

Bread  Pudding. 

One  pint  of  fine  stale  bread  crumbs,  soaked  one  hour  in 
one  quart  of  milk.  Beat  two  eggs ;  mix  one  quarter  of 
a  cup  of  sugar,  one  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one  saltspoonfvl 
of  nutmeg  or  cinnamon,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  softened 
butter.  Stir  into  the  eggs,  and  then  stir  all  into  the  milk. 
Bake  one  hour  in  a  buttered  pudding-dish. 

Add  ohe  cup  of  raisins,  and  you  have  a  Plum  Pudding. 
The  raisins  should  be  first  boiled,  at  least  one  hour,  in 
water  to  cover,  till  plump  and  soft,  as  they  will  not  cook 

22 


338  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

sufficiently  in  the  baking.  Four  eggs  may  be  used  when 
a  richer  pudding  is  desired.  And  this  becomes  the  Queen 
of  Puddings  by  leaving  out  the  whites,  and  after  baking 
spreading  a  layer  of  jam  over  the  top,  then  a  meringue  of 
the  whites,  and  browning  slightly. 

French  Bread  Pudding.  —  Butter  small  thin  slices  of 
J  nice  bread,  spread  with  apple  jelly,  and  lay  them  loosely 
in  a  quart  pudding-dish,  filling  it  about  half  full.  Pour 
over  them  one  quart  of  lolled  custard,  and  cover  with  a 
meringue.  Brown  the  meringue  and  serve  cold.  Or  put 
the  prepared  bread  in  a  buttered  mould  lined  with  maca- 
roons, cover  with  the  custard,  steam  one  hour,  and  serve 
hot  , 

Plymouth  Indian  Meal  Pudding.    (Mrs.  Faunce.) 

v 

Mix  one  cup  of  yellow  corn  meal,  one  cup  of  molasses, 
and  one  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour  on  one  quart  of  boiling 
milk,  add  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  three  pints  of  cold 
milk,  and  one  cup  of  cold  water,  or  two  eggs.  Bake  in  a 
deep,  well-buttered  pudding-dish,  holding  at  least  three 
quarts.  Bake  very  slowly  seven  or  eight  hours.  Do  not 
stir,  but  cover  with  a  plate  if  it  bake  too  fast.  One  cup 
of  currants  may  be  used  to  give  variety. 

Baked  Indian  Meal  Pudding  (made  quickly). 

Boil  one  quart  of  milk.  Pour  it  gradually  on  three 
tablespoonfuls  of  granulated  Indian  meal.  Put  it  back 
in  the  double  boiler,  and  boil  one  hour,  stirring  often. 
Then  add  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  half  a  cup  of  molasses,  two  eggs,  and  one 
quart  of  cold  milk.  Mix  well,  pour  into  a  well-buttered 
dish,  and  bake  one  hour.  Eat  with  cream  or  butter. 

Whole-Wheat  Pudding.     (Miss  Helen  Spaulding.) 

Mix  two  cups  of  whole-wheat  flour,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  soda,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Add  one  cup  of 
milk,  half  a  cup  of  molasses,  and  one  cup  of  stoned  and 
chopped  raisins,  or  one  cup  of  ripe  berries.  Steam  two 


Steamed  Pudding.  339 

hours  and  a  half,  and  serve  with  cream  or  any  plain 
pudding  sauce.  One  cup  of  dates,  figs,  stewed  prunes,  or 
chopped  apple  makes  a  pleasing  variety.  This  is  an 
economical  pudding,  wholesome  for  children  and  invalids 
when  served  with  cream,  and  rich  enough  to  suit  any  one 
when  served  with  creamy  or  foamy  sauce. 

Steamed  Fruit  Pudding. 


1  pint  flour. 

3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

%  teaspoon ful  salt. 

1  cup  milk. 

2  tablespoon fuls  melted  butter. 


2  eggs. 

%  cup  sugar. 

1  pint  berries,  or  ripe  fruit  or  cut 

small,  or 
1  cup  raisins,  stoned  and  halved. 


Mix  the  baking-powder  and  salt  with  the  flour ;  add  the 
milk  and  melted  butter.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  add 
the  sugar,  and  beat  them  well  into  the  dough.  Then  add 
the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff;  and  then  the  fruit, 
well  rolled  in  flour.  Steam  two  hours,  and  serve  with 
lemon  or  foamy  sauce. 

Steamed  Suet  and  Fruit  Pudding. 


2)^  cups  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  soda. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

%  saltspoonf  ul  cinnamon. 

%  saltspoonf  ul  nutmeg. 


1  cup  chopped  suet,  or 

YI  cup  butter. 

1  cup  chopped  raisins  or  currants. 

1  cup  water  or  milk. 

1  cup  molasses. 


Sift  the  soda,  salt,  and  spice  into  the  flour,  rub  in  the 
butter,  and  add  the  raisins.  Mix  the  milk  with  the 
molasses,  and  stir  it  into  the  dry  mixture.  Steam  in  a 
buttered  pudding-mould  three  hours.  Serve  with  foamy 
sauce. 

If  water  and  butter  be  used,  three  cups  of  flour  will  be 
required,  as  these  thicken  less  than  milk  and  suet.  This 
pudding  is  sometimes  steamed  in  small  stone  cups. 

Cabinet  Pudding. 

Butter  a  melon  mould,  and  decorate  it  with  candied 
fruit,  or  with  raisins  boiled  till  soft  and  seeded ;  then  put 


340  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

in  a  layer  of  lady  fingers  or  stale  sponge  cake,  then  a 
few  pieces  of  fruit,  and  repeat  till  the  mould  is  nearly  full. 
Pour  one  pint  of  boiling  milk  into  the  yolks  of  three  eggs, 
beaten  with  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and  half  a  salt- 
spoonful  of  salt.  Pour  over  the  cake  in  the  mould.  Set 
the  mould  in  a  pan  of  warm  water  on  the  back  of  the  stove 
half  an  hour,  then  bake  one  hour,  keeping  it  in  the  pan  of 
hot  water.  Or  steam  it  one  hour.  Serve  hot  with  wine 
or  foamy  sauce. 

Six  macaroons  or  six  cocoanut  cakes  may  also  be  used, 
and  the  custard  may  be  flavored  with  wine. 

Christmas  Plum  Pudding.     (Mrs.  J.  M.  Towne.) 

One  pint  and  a  half  of  grated  bread  crumbs  (soft,  oot 
dried),  one  pint  of  chopped  suet,  one  pint  and  a  half  of 
currants  and  stoned  raisins  mixed,  half  a  cup  of  citron 
shaved  thin,  one  scant  cup  of  sugar,  half  a  teaspoonful 
of  salt,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  grated  nutmeg,  five  eggs, 
two  even  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  made  into  a  thin  batter 
with  milk,  and  half  a  glass  of  brandy.  Mix  in  the  order 
given,  and  boil  or  steam  four  hours.  Serve  with  yellow 
sauce. 

Thanksgiving  Plum  Pudding.     (Mrs.  S.  M.  Bailey.) 

Six  butter  crackers,  rolled  fine,  and  soaked  in  three 
pints  of  milk.  Cream  one  quarter  of  a  cup  of  butter  with 
one  cup  of  sugar ;  add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  mixed  spice,  and  six  well-beaten  eggs.  Stir 
it  all  into  the  milk,  and  add  one  pound  of  the  best  raisins. 
Bake  in  a  deep  pudding-dish,  well  greased  with  cold 
butter.  Bake  very  slowly  in  a  moderate  oven  three  or 
four  hours.  Stir  several  times  during  the  first  hour,  to 
keep  the  raisins  from  settling.  Make  half  of  this  receipt 
and  steam  it  in  a  pudding-mould.  Butter  the  mould,  and 
line  it  with  macaroons. 


Blanc  Mange.  341 


CUSTARDS,   JELLIES,   AND   CREAMS. 


Irish  Moss  Blanc-Mange. 

%  cup  Irish  moss.  1  saltspoonful  salt. 

1  quart  milk.  1  teaspoonf  ill  vanilla. 

Soak  the  moss  in  cold  water  fifteen  minutes ;  pick  over, 
wash,  tie  in  a  lace  bag,  and  put  it  into  the  double 
boiler  with  the  milk.  Boil  until  the  milk  thickens  when 
dropped  on  a  cool  plate.  Add  the  salt ;  strain  and  flavor. 
Mould  in  small  cups  or  in  egg-shells.  Break  off  a  piece 
as  large  as  a  ten-cent  piece  on  one  end  of  the  egg-shell, 
pour  out  the  egg,  rinse  the  shells,  stand  them  upright  in  a 
pan  of  meal,  and  fill  with  the  blanc-mange.  Serve  blanc- 
mange with  sugar  and  cream,  also  with  apple  or  grape 
jelly  ;  or  put  half  a  peach  or  any  candied  fruit  in  the  bot- 
tom of  the  cup  before  filling. 

Blanc-mange  may  be  made  by  using  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  sea-moss  farina.  Stir  it  into  the  boiling  milk, 
and  cook  twenty  minutes.  Or  use  three  tablespoonfuls  of 
Hector's  farina  in  the  same  way.  Cornstarch  and  gela- 
tine are  often  used,  but  they  are  neither  palatable  nor 
nutritious  without  eggs. 

Chocolate  Pudding.  —  Use  the  same  proportion  of  moss 
and  milk  as  in  the  preceding  rule.  Put  one  square  of 
chocolate  in  a  saucepan  with  two  tablespoonfuls  each  of 
suoar  and  water.  Stir,  and  boil  until  smooth  ;  add  a  little 
of  the  milk,  until  thin  enough  to  pour  easily,  then  mix  it 
well  with  the  remainder  of  the  milk.  Add  the  moss,  and 
boil  till  thick. 


342  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Danish  Pudding,  or  Fruit  Tapioca. 


^  cup  sugar. 

%  tumbler  currant  jeljy. 


%  cuprpearl  tapioca. 
1)£  pint  boiling  water. 
1  saltspoonf  ul  salt. 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  tapioca.  Put  it  in  the  double 
boiler  with  the  boiling  water,  and  cook  one  hour,  or  till 
soft  and  transparent,  stirring  often.  Add  the  salt,  sugar, 
and  currant  jelly.  Stir  till  the  jelly  is  all  dissolved.  Pour 
into  a  glass  dish,  and  keep  on  ice.  Serve  very  cold  with 
sugar  and  cream.  Half  a  cup  of  lemon  juice,  or  any  acid 
fruit  syrup,  or  one  cup  of  canned  apricot,  peach,  or  quince, 
may  be  used  instead  of  the  jelly.  Or,  in  summer,  use  one 
pint  of  ripe  berries,  or  any  small  fruits,  adding  more  sugar 
as  required. 

Fruit  Pudding.  —  Cook  one  quart  of  ripe  berries  or 
canned  peaches  or  apricots  with  one  pint  of  water,  and 
sugar  to  taste,  till  the  fruit  is  well  scalded.  Skim  out  the 
fruit  into  a  dish  for  serving.  Wet  one  scant  cupful  of 
fine  granulated  wheat  flour  in  a  little  cold  water,  stir  it 
into  the  boiling  syrup  ;  cook  ten  minutes,  and  pour  it  over 
the  fruit.  Serve  very  cold  with  cream. 


Boiled  Custard. 


I  pint  milk. 
Yolks  of  3  eggs. 


3^  saltspoonful  salt 
%  teaspoonf  ul  vanilla. 


3  tablespoonf  uls  sugar. 

Scald  the  milk.  Beat  the  yolks,  add  the  sugar  and 
salt,  and  beat  well.  Pour  the  hot  milk  slowly  into  the 
eggs,  and  when  well  mixed  pour  all  back  into  the  double 
boiler,  and  stir  constantly  till  smooth  and  thick  like  cream. 
Strain,  and  when  cool  add  the  flavoring.  Do  not  stir  the 
egg  into  the  hot  milk,  as  there  is  danger  of  curdling,  and 
a  part  of  the  egg  will  be  left  in  the  bowl.  Scalding  the 
milk  hastens  the  process,  so  that  less  stirring  is  required. 
When  nearly  thick  enough,  the  foam  on  the  top  disappears, 
and  the  custard  coats  the  spoon ;  but  the  surest  test  is 


Custards.  343 


given  by  the  sense  of  feeling.  You  are  conscious  that  the 
custard  is  thicker  by  the  way  the  spoon  goes  through  it. 
Do  not  leave  the  custard  an  instant ;  take  it  off  as  soon  as 
it  is  smooth,  as  it  will  thicken  in  cooling,  and  curdles 
quickty  if  cooked  a  moment  too  long  or  if  left  in  the  boiler. 
Have  a  fine  strainer  placed  in  a  bowl  or  pitcher  before  you 
begin  to  cook  the  custard,  that  you  may  strain  it  quickly. 

Boiled  custard,  when  to  be  used  as  a  sauce,  should  be 
thin  enough  to  pour ;  when  to  be  served  as  a  custard,  it 
should  be  cooked  a  moment  longer,  to  make  it  thicker. 

Four  or  even  Jive  eggs  to  a  pint  of  milk  may  be  used 
when  a  rich  custard  is  desired.  But  three  are  sufficient 
for  nearly  all  purposes. 

Boiled  custard  is  much  smoother  when  only  the  yolks  of 
the  eggs  are  used.  Many  combinations  may  be  made  by 
adding  the  whites  of  the  eggs  after  the  custard  is  cold. 
Beat  the  whites  stiff,  put  them  on  a  sieve,  and  cook  over 
steam,  or  pour  boiling  water  through  them.  The  water 
will  cook  and  stiffen  the  egg,  and  when  well  drained  it  may 
be  piled  in  rock}'  form  on  the  custard.  Or  the  white  may 
be  poached  by  dipping  it  by  the  spoonful  into  boiling  milk. 
Serve  the  custard  in  a  large  glass  dish,  and  pile  the  white 
in  a  mass,  or  put  spoonfuls  of  it  here  and  there  on  the  cus- 
tard, with  bright-colored  jelly  on  the  white ;  or  serve  in 
small  glass  custard  cups  with  the  white  and  jelly  on  the 
top.  Or  pour  the  custard  over  slices  of  sponge  cake 
(soaked  in  wine,  if  you  prefer),  and  cover  with  a  meringue 
of  the  whites  sweetened  and  flavored.  Floating  Island, 
Flummery,  Tipsy  Pudding,  and  hosts  of  other  dishes 
are  only  fancy  names  given  to  the  different  combinations 
of  cake,  boiled  custard,  and  meringue. 

Any  of  the  following  ingredients  may  be  used  as  flavor- 
ing ;  this  will  give  a  variety  of  dishes,  which  want  of  space 
prevents  us  from  giving  as  separate  receipts  :  half  a  square  ' 
of  chocolate,  melted ;  the  three  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar 
melted  to  a  caramel  before  mixing  with  the  yolks  ;  one  cup 
of  grated  cocoanut,  or  cocoanut  cakes  crumbled  ;  six  mac- 
aroons soaked  in  wine;  one  cup  of  chopped  almonds  or 


344  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

any  of  the  varieties  of  candied  fruits  ;  four  oranges, 
peeled,  seeded,  and  cut  fine  ;  one  pint  of  any  canned  fruit ; 
one  pint  of  lemon,  wine,  or  orange  jelly,  cut  in  cubes. 
Or  color  the  meringue  pink  by  beating  three  tablespoon- 
fuls. of  bright-colored  jelly  with  the  whites ;  or  brown  it 
with  a  salamander  or  hot  poker,  or  by  putting  the  dish 
on  a  board  in  the  oven. 

Baked  or  Steamed  Custard. 

\  quart  milk.  I         6  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 

6  eggs.  1  saltspoonf  ul  salt. 

Scald  the  milk.  Beat  the  eggs  ;  add  the  sugar  and  salt, 
then  the  scalded  milk.  Strain,  add  a  little  nutmeg,  and 
bake  about  twenty  minutes  in  a  deep  dish  or  in  cups  set 
in  a  pan  of  warm  water ;  or  steam  in  a  bowl  or  in  cups. 
Test  the  custard  with  a  spoon ;  if  it  come  out  clean,  the 
custard  is  done. 


Caramel  Custard. 


)£  cup  sugar. 


2  tablespoonfuls  water. 
1  quart  milk. 


6  eggs. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


Put  the  sugar  in  an  omelet  pan,  and  stir  until  it  melts 
and  is  light  brown ;  add  the  water,  and  stir  into  the  warm 
milk.  Beat  the  eggs  slightly,  add  the  salt  and  vanilla  and 
part  of  the  milk.  Strain  into  the  remainder  of  the  milk, 
and  pour  into  a  buttered  two-quart  mould.  Set  the  mould 
in  a  pan  of  warm  water,  and  bake  thirty  to  forty  minutes, 
or  till  firm.  Cut  into  the  middle  with  a  knife  ;  if  it  come 
out  clean,  the  custard  is  done.  Serve  cold  with  caramel 
sauce. 

Delicate  Pudding. 


1  cup  water. 

1  cup  fruit  juice. 

3  tablespoonfuls  cornstarch. 


%  saltspoonful  salt. 
Sugar  to  taste. 
3  eggs. 


Boil  the  water  and  fruit  juice  (orange,  lemon,  or  canned 
cherries,  quince,  or  apricot).    Wet  the  cornstarch  in  a  little 


Fancy  Custards.  345 


cold  water,  stir  into  the  boiling  syrup,  and  cook  ten  min- 
utes. Add  the  salt  and  sugar  to  taste ;  the  quantity  de- 
pending upon  the  fruit.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  till 
foamy,  and  stir  into  the  starch.  Turn  at  once  into  a 
mould.  Serve  cold  with  a  boiled  custard  sauce  made  with 
the  yolks  of  the  eggs. 

Apple  Snow. 

3  large  tart  apples.  I      %  cup  powdered  sugar. 

3  eggs  (whites).  I     )£  cup  jelly. 

Stew  or  steam  the  apples  (cored  and  quartered,  but  not 
pared),  drain,  and  then  rub  them  through  a  hair  sieve. 
Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  the  sugar,  beat  again  ; 
add  the  apple,  and  beat  till  like  snow.  Pile  lightl}7  in  a 
•  glass  dish,  garnish  with  jelly  or  holly  leaves.  Serve  with 
boiled  custard. 

Tapioca  Cream. 


2  tablespoonf  uls  pearl  tapioca. 
1  pint  milk. 
Yolks  of  2  eggs. 


%  saltspoonful  salt. 

Whites  of  2  eggs. 

%  teaspoonf  ul  vanilla. 


Yi  cup  sugar. 

Soak  the  tapioca  in  hot  water  enough  to  cover  it,  in  the 
top  of  the  double  boiler  placed  on  the  back  of  the  stove. 
When  the  water  is  absorbed,  add  the  milk,  and  cook  until 
the  tapioca  is  soft  and  transparent.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  add  the  sugar  and  salt.  Pour  the  boiling  mixture  on 
them,  and  cook  two  or  three  minutes,  or  till  it  thickens  like 
boiled  custard.  Remove  from  the  fire,  add  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  beaten  to  a  foam.  Stir  well,  and  when  cool 
flavor.  Do  not  try  to  mould  it,  as  it  is  more  delicate  when 
soft. 

Jellies  and  Fancy  Dishes  made  with  Gelatine,  Custard, 
and  Cream. 

Gelatine,  as  now  obtained,  is  refined  and  clarified  during 
the  process  of  manufacture,  and  this  renders  it  unnecessary 
to  use  the  white  of  egg  in  making  jellies,  as  was  required 


346  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

when  using  the  old  preparation  of  isinglass  and  gelatine. 
Much  of  the  strength  and  flavor  of  jellies  is  lost  in  clearing 
them  with  eggs.  Cox's  gelatine  makes  a  clear  jelly,  but  it 
softens  slowly  and  requires  a  strong  flavoring  like  wine 
or  lemon  to  disguise  the  fishy  taste.  Nelson's  English 
gelatine  is  of  fine  quality,  softens  quickly,  has  an  agree- 
able flavor,  and  is  well  adapted  to  creams  and  other 
delicate  dishes.  Granulated  gelatines  are  convenient  for 
accurate  measurement  and  quick  work. 

Never  cook  gelatine.  Soak  (not  dissolve)  it  in  cold 
water,  in  the  proportion  of  o,  •*>  of  cold^nafer  to  one 
box  of  gelatine.  It  will  soften  in  fifteen  mintu^-,  if  stirred 
often.  Then  dissolve  in  boiling  liquid,  —  either  water, 
milk,  or  custard,  —  and  always  strain  through  a  fine 
strainer  after  it  is  dissolved. 


Gelatine  Pudding,  or  Spanish  Cream. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 
%  cup  boiling  water. 
Yolks  of  3  eggs. 
3  tablespoonf  uls  sugar. 


%  saltspoonf  ul  salt. 
1  pint  milk. 
Whites  of  3  eggs. 
1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  till  soft,  then  dis- 
solve it  in  boiling  water.  Make  a  custard  with  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs,  beaten,  and  mixed  with  the  sugar  and  salt. 
Pour  on  the  hot  milk,  and  cook  in  the  double  boiler  till 
it  thickens.  Then  add  the  strained  gelatine  water,  the 
vanilla,  and  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff.  Mix  all 
well,  and  turn  into  moulds  wet  in  cold  water.  Place  in  ice 
water,  and  when  hard  and  ready  to  serve  turn  out  on  a 
dish. 

Italian  Cream.  —  Use  the  same  proportions  as  in  the 
preceding  receipt.  Dissolve  the  soaked  gelatine  in  the  hot 
custard  instead  of  in  hot  water,  and  strain  the  whole  while 
hot  into  the  beaten  whites.  When  well  mixed,  add  lemon 
or  vanilla,  and  pour  into  a  mould. 

Quaking  Custard.  —  The  same  proportions  as  in  Span- 
1  If  erramiTated  gelatine,  use  1J  tablespoons. 


Snow  Pudding  347 


ish  Cream.  Dissolve  the  soaked  gelatine  in  the  hot  cus- 
tard, and  strain  into  a  mould.  When  ready  to  serve, 
beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  stiff,  add  three  heaping  table- 
spoonfuls  of  powdered  sugar,  and  the  juice  of  one  lemon. 
Turn  the  custard  on  a  platter,  and  heap  the  meringue 
around  it. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
^  cup  cold  water. 
1  euj  •  n    'g  water. 
1  cup  »'. 
)^cup  1<  .  ion  juice. 
Whites  of  3  eggs. 

Snow  I 

, 

'lidding. 

Yolks  of  3  eggs. 
3  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 
%  saltspoonful  salt. 
1  pint  hot  milk. 
%  teaspoonful  vanilla. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  soft.  Then  dissolve  it  in  the  boiling  water  ;  add  the 
sugar  and  lemon  juice.  Stir  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved. 
Strain  into  a  -large  bowl,  and  set  in  ice  water  to  cool.  Stir 
occasionally.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth, 
and  when  the  gelatine  begins  to  thicken,  add  the  beaten 
whites,  and  beat  all  together  till  very  light.  When  nearly 
stiff  enough  to  drop,  pour  into  a  mould.  Or  beat  until 
stiff  enough  to  hold  its  shape,  if  your  strength  will  allow, 
and  pile  lightly  in  a  tall  glass  dish.  Make  a  boiled  custard 
of  the  yolks  of  the  eggs,  the  sugar,  salt,  and  milk,  and  when 
cool  flavor  with  vanilla.  Serve  the  sauce  in  a  pitcher.  Or, 
if  the  snow  be  moulded,  turn  it  out  on  a  dish,  and  pour  the 
sauce  around  the  pudding.  The  snow  may  be  turned  into 
a  shallow  dish,  two  inches  deep,  to  harden,  and  when  ready 
to  serve  cut  into  blocks  and  piled  like  a  pyramid.  Blocks 
of  lemon  or  wine  jelly,  mixed  with  the  snow  or  sparkling 
jelly  (jelly  broken  up  lightly  with  a  fork),  make  a  pleasing 
variety.  If  the  whites  of  the  eggs  be  added  to  the  gelatine 
mixture  before  it  becomes  cold,  as  is  directed  in  many  re- 
ceipts, more  time  will  be  required  for  the  beating.  Many 
have  never  made  the  dish  a  second  time  on  account  of  the 
time  and  strength  expended.  Fifteen  minutes  is  sufficient 
when  made  according  to  this  receipt. 

1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  1J  tablespoons. 


348 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Yi  box  gelatine. 
Yi  cup  cold  water. 
Yz  cup  boiling  water, 
1  cup  sugar. 


Orange  Charlotte. 

Juice  of  1  lemon. 

1  cup  orange  juice  and  pulp. 

3  eggs  (whites). 


FIG.  45.     Orange  Charlotte. 


Line  a  mould  or  bowl  with  lady  fingers  or  sections  of 
oranges.  Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  till  soft.  Pour 
on  the  boiling  water,  add  the  sugar  and  the  lemon  juice. 

Strain  and  add  the 
orange  juice  and 
pulp  wi*h  a  little  of 
the  grated  rind. 
Cool  in  a  pan  of 
ice  water.  Beat 
the  whites  of  the 
eggs  stiff,  and  when 
the  orange  jelly  be- 
gins to  harden  beat 
it  till  light.  Add  the  beaten  whites,  and  beat  together  till 
stiff  enough  to  drop.  Pour  into  the  mould. 

One  pint  of  whipped  cream  m&y  be  used  instead  of  the 
whites  of  the  eggs,  or  it  may  be  piled  on  the  top  after  the 
Charlotte  is  removed  from  the  mould. 

Apple  Charlotte.  —  One  cup  of  cooked  sour  apple 
(steamed,  drained,  and  sifted)  may  be  used  in  place  of 
the  orange  in  the  preceding  receipt.  Line  the  mould  with 
lad}'  fingers  or  sponge  cake,  and  serve  a  boiled  custard, 
made  with  the  }*olks  of  the  eggs,  as  a  sauce. 

Or  use  one  cup  of  canned  peach,  pineapple,  or  apricot, 
or  one  pint  of  fresh  strawberries  or  raspberries.  Mash 
and  rub  the  fruit  through  a  sieve  before  using. 


Fruit  Charlotte. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
Yz  cup  cold  water. 
1  cup  sugar. 
13^  cup  water  and 
1  cup  lemon  juice,  or 


1  pint  orange  juice  and 
1  cup  water. 
Yolks  of  4  eggs. 
Whites  of  4  eggs. 
1  dozen  lady  fingers. 


It  granulated  gelatine,  use  2\  tablespoons. 


Wine  Jelly.  349 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  till  soft.  Make  a  syrup 
with  the  sugar  and  fruit  juice.  When  boiling,  pour  it 
into  the  beaten  yolks  of  the  eggs.  Stir  well,  and  cook  in 
a  double  boiler  till  it  thickens.  Add  the  soaked  gelatine, 
stir  till  dissolved,  and  strain  at  once  into  a  granite  pan 
placed  in  ice  water.  Beat  occasionally  till  cold,  but  not 
hard.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  to  a  stiff  froth,  and 
then  beat  all  together  till  it  thickens.  When  almost  stiff 
enough  to  drop,  pour  at  once  into  moulds  lined  with  cake. 
Keep  on  ice,  and  serve  with  or  without  powdered  sugar 
and  cream.  Vary  the  fruit  by  stewing  one  pint  of  canned 
peaches,  pineapple,  or  apricots  in  one  cup  each  of  sugar 
and  water  till  soft,  then  sift;  add  the  yolks  of  the  eggs, 
and  cook  till  it  thickens.  Add  the  gelatine,  strain,  and 
when  cool  add  the  whites.  Grated  pineapple  will  not 
require  sifting. 


Velvet  Cream.     (Miss  Ward.} 


Yz  box  gelatine.1 
1>£  cup  sherry  wine. 


\%  cup  sugar. 
\%  pint  cream. 


1  lemon  (grated  rind  and  juice). 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  wine,  add  the  lemon  and  sugar, 
and  heat  all  together  till  the  gelatine  is  dissolved.  Then 
strain  and  set  it  away  to  cool.  When  nearly  cold,  but 
before  it  begins  to  stiffen,  add  the  cream.  Beat  till  nearly 
stiff  enough  to  drop,  then  pour  it  into  moulds  and  set  it  on 
ice  until  stiff  as  blanc-mange. 


Wine  Jelly 


)^  box  gelatine.! 
^  cup  cold  water. 
1  pint  boiling  water. 


Juice  of  1  lemon. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  cup  sherry  or  S.  M.  wine. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  fifteen  minutes,  or  until 
soft.  Add  the  boiling  water,  lemon  juice,  sugar,  and 
wine.  Stir  well,  and  strain  through  a  fine  napkin  into  a 
shallow  dish.  Keep  in  ice  water  till  hard.  When  ready, 
to  serve,  cut  in  cubes  or  diamonds,  or  break  it  up  lightly 

1  If  granulated  erelafino.  11*0  91  f.nl>!oop0ons 


350 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


with  a  fork.  If  3-011  wish  to  mould  it,  or  to  use  for  mould- 
ing creams,  add  only  two  thirds  of  a  pint  of  boiling 
water. 


Orange  Jelly. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 
1  cup  boiling  water. 


Juice  of  1  lemon. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  pint  orange  juice. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  until  soft.  Add  the 
boiling  water,  the  lemon  juice,  sugar,  and  orange  juice. 
Stir  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and  strain.  Or  use  one  cup 
of  orange  juice  and  one  scant  pint  of  boiling  water,  one 
lemon,  one  scant  cup  of  sugar,  and  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  brandy. 


Lemon  Jelly. 


%  box  gelatine.* 

1  scant  cup  cold  water. 

1  pint  boiling  water. 


1  cup  sugar. 

%  cup  lemon  juice  (large). 

1  square-inch  stick  cinnamon. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  till  soft.  Shave  the 
lemon  rind  thin,  using  none  of  the  white.  Steep  it  with 
the  cinnamon  in  the  pint  of  boiling  water  ten  minutes,  then 
add  the  soaked  gelatine,  sugar,  and  lemon  juice,  and  when 
dissolved  strain. 


Italian  Jelly,  or  Fruit  Moulded  in  Jelly. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 
Rind  and  juice  of  1  lemon. 
1  scant  cup  boiling  water. 


1  cup  sugar. 

1  pint  orange  juice. 

1  cup  fruit. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  till  soft.  Shave  the 
rind  of  the  lemon,  using  only  the  yellow  part,  and  soak  with 
the  gelatine.  Pour  on  the  boiling  water ;  add  the  sugar, 
lemon  juice,  and  orange  juice.  Strain  through  a  fine 
napkin  into  a  pitcher,  or  something  from  which  it  can  be 
poured.  Wet  a  mould  in  cold  water,  and  pack  it  in  a  pan 
of  ice.  Put  in  a  la}7er  of  jelly  half  an  inch  deep  and 
harden  it,  then  a  layer  of  candied  fruit  or  sections  of 
1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  2£  tablespoons. 


Crelatine  Jellies.  351 


oranges,  fastening  each  piece  of  fruit  in  place  with  a  little 
jelly  before  adding  enough  to  cover  the  fruit,  otherwise  the 
fruit  will  float.  Repeat  till  the  mould  is  full.  Place  the 
pitcher  where  the  jelly  will  keep  liquid  but  not  hot,  and  be 
sure  that  every  piece  of  fruit  is  firmly  in  place  before  add- 
ing more.  This  may  be  made  with  lemon  or  wine  jetty. 

A  variety  of  designs  may  be  made  by  arranging  different 
colors  of  fruit;  and  it  well  repays  one  for  the  trouble, 
which  seems  very  slight  after  the  first  attempt.  Do  not 
devote  your  whole  morning  to  it,  but  look  at  it  occasion- 
ally while  you  are  doing  other  things,  adding  fruit  and  jelly 
as  required ;  and  before  you  are  conscious  of  it,  the  dish 
will  be  prepared. 

Orange  Baskets.  —  Cut  as  many  oranges  as  will  be  re- 
quired, leaving  half  the  peel  whole  for  the  baskets,  and  a 
strip  half  an  inch  wide  for  the  handle.  Remove  the  pulp 


Fio.  46.    Orange  Baskets. 

and  juice,  and  use  the  juice  in  making  orange  jelly.  Place 
the  baskets  in  a  pan  of  broken  ice  to  keep  upright.  Fill 
with  orange  jelly.  When  ready  to  serve,  put  a  spoonful 
of  whipped  cream  over  the  jelly  in  each  basket.  Serve  in 
a  bed  of  orange  or  laurel  leaves. 

No.  2.  —  With  a  vegetable  cutter  cut  out  several  smaP 
portions  of  the  peel  in  the  basket  and  handle,  to  give  ai 
open-work  effect,  and  fill  with  a  mixture  of  orange,  wine 
and  lemon  jelly,  cut  into  inch  dice  and  piled  lightly  in  the 
baskets.  Or  the  baskets  may  be  filled  with  Bavarian 
cream. 

Orange  Sections.  —  Cut  off  a  small  portion  from  the 
end  of  the  orange,  and  scoop  out  the  pulp  and  juice.  Be 
careful  not  to  break  through  the  skin.  Fill  them  with 


352  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

orange  jelly  which  is  thoroughly  cold,  but  not  hard,  and 
place  them  upright  in  a  pan  of  broken  ice.  When  hard, 
cut  each  orange  in  quarters,  and  serve  garnished  with 
green  leaves. 

Imperial  Cream. 

Make  the  rule  for  Lemon  Jelly  (page  350),  and  color  part 
of  it  pink  with  cochineal  or  cranberry  juice.  Harden  it  in 
a  shallow  pan.  Make  Snow  Pudding  (page  347) ,  and  when 
nearly  stiff  enough  to  drop,  stir  in  small  squares  of  the 
pink  and  lemon  jelly.  Mould,  and  when  ready  to  serve, 
turn  out  on  a  dish,  garnish  the  base  and  top  with  maca- 
roons soaked  in  wine.  Pour  rich  boiled  custard  round  the 
dish,  and  put  macaroons  and  cubes  of  the  jeUies  in  the 
custard. 

Whipped  Cream. 

Many  wholesome,  delicious,  and  attractive  dishes  may 
be  made  with  whipped  cream.  To  those  who  can  obtain 
plenty  of  cream,  these  dishes  afford  a  cheaper,  more 
easily  prepared,  and  far  more  satisfactory  course  than 
pie  and  many  forms  of  hot  puddings.  Many  of  them 
are  equally  suitable  for  tea.  Very  rich  cream  should  be 
diluted  and  well  mixed  with  an  equal  quantity  of  milk. 
The  best  quality  of  cream  obtained  from  the  milkman  is 
usually  of  the  proper  consistenc}7.  Thin  cream  will  become 
liquid  after  whipping,  and  thick  cream  will  turn  to  butter. 
The  cream  should  always  be  icy  cold;  when  it  is  to  be 
served  as  a  garnish,  or  for  cream  whips,  it  should  be 
sweetened  and  flavored  before  it  is  whipped. 

A  whip  churn  is  the  best  utensil  for  whipping  cream. 
This  is  a  tin  cylinder,  perforated  at  the  bottom  and  sides, 
and  having  a  perforated  dasher.  When  the  churn  is  placed 
in  a  bowl  of  cream,  and  the  dasher  worked  up  and  down, 
the  air  is  forced  from  the  cylinder  into  the  cream,  causing 
ft  to  become  light  and  frothy.  A  Dover  egg-beater  will 
make  the  cream  light,  but  it  has  a  different  consistency 
from  that  obtained  by  churning. 


Whipped   Cream.  353 

To  Whip  Cream.  —  Place  a  bowl  half  filled  with  cream 
in  a  pan  of  broken  ice.  When  very  cold,  put  the  churn  into 
the  creain,  hold  the  cylinder  firmly,  and  keep  the  cover  in 
place  with  the  left  hand.  Tip  the  churn  slightly,  that  the 
cream  may  flow  out  at  the  bottom.  Work  the  dasher  with 
a  light  short  stroke  up,  and  a  hard,  pushing  stroke  down. 
\Vhen  the  froth  appears,  stir  it  down  once  or  twice,  as  the 
first  bubbles  are  too  large ;  and  when  the  bowl  is  full  of 
froth,  skim  it  off  into  a  granite  pan  placed  on  ice.  Take 
off  the  froth  only,  and  do  not  take  it  off  below  the  holes 
in  the  cylinder,  as  it  whips  better  when  they  are  covered. 
For  this  reason  never  whip  a  pint  of  cream  in  a  three- 
quart  bowl,  and  do  not  try  to  whip  it  all,  as  usually  a  little 
is  left  in  the  bowl  which  is  too  thin  to  whip. 

One  pint  of  cream  should  treble  in  whipping.     If  for  a 
garnish,  drain  the  whipped  cream  on  a  hair  sieve  placed 
over  a  pan,  and  keep  it  on  ice  till  stiff  enough  to  keep  it 
shape.     Creams  that  are  to  be  moulded  are  made  stiffef 
by  the  addition  of  gelatint 


Cream  Whips.    (Miss  Ward.) 


%  cup  sugar. 

Whites  of  2  eggs,  beaten  light 


1  pint  rich  cream. 

1  cup  pale  sherry  wine. 

1  lemon  (grated  rind  and  juice). 

Mix  in  the  order  given.  Add  more  sugar  if  desired. 
Stir  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  then  whip  it  and  take  off 
the  froth  as  it  rises,  and  put  it  on  a  hair  sieve.  Fill  jelly 
glasses  with  the  cream  left  hi  the  bowl,  and  put  the  froth 
on  the  top. 

Newport  Whips.  (Mrs.  Upham.} —  One  pint  of  cream, 
sweet  or  sour,  one  gill  of  sweet  milk,  half  a  lemon  sliced, 
sugar  and  wine  to  taste.  Whip,  and  serve  the  whip  only, 
in  jelly  glasses.  If  prepared  in  a  covered  bowl  or  tureen, 
the  unwhipped  cream  may  be  kept  for  several  days,  add- 
ing more  cream,  sugar,  and  wine  to  taste,  and  whipping 
as  required  for  use. 


354  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Charlotte  Russe  (Cream). 


1  pint  rich  cream. 
1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


%  cup  sugar. 
Sponge  cake. 


Mix  the  cream,  vanilla,  and  sugar.  Place  the  bowl  in 
ice  water,  and  when  chilled  whip  to  a  stiff  froth,  and  skim 
off  the  froth  into  a  sieve.  Drain,  and  whip  again  that 
which  has  drained  through.  When  nearly  all  whipped, 
line  a  glass  dish  with  lady  fingers  or  sponge  cake,  fill 
with  the  cream,  put  cubes  of  wine  jelly  or  any  bright 
ielly  on  the  cream,  and  keep  on  ice  till  ready  to  serve. 

Charlotte  Russe,  No.  2  (Cream  and  Eggs). 

1  pint  rich  cream.  I         Whites  of  2  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla.  1  cup  powdered  sugar. 

1  tablespoonful  wine.  Sponge  cake. 

Flavor  the  cream  with  vanilla  and  wine,  and  whip  to  a 
stiff  froth.  Beat  the  whites  of 'the  eggs  stiff,  add  the  pow- 
dered sugar,  and  mix  it  lightly  with  the  whipped  cream. 
Keep  it  on  ice  till  it  stiffens.  Line  small  cups  or  paper 
moulds  with  sponge  cake,  and  fill  with  the  cream.  Or  fill 
fancy  paper  cases  with  cream,  and  ornament  each  with  thin 
triangles  of  sponge  cake  and  a  cube  of wine  jelly. 

A  small  part  of  the  cream  may  be  colored  with  melted 
chocolate  or  cochineal,  and  used  for  decoration. 

Charlotte  Russe,  No.  3  (with  Gelatine).     (Miss  Parloa.) 


gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 
1  pint  cream. 
1  dozen  lady  fingers. 


Yi  cup  powdered  sugar. 
1  teaspoonful  vanilla 
1  tablespoonful  wine. 
^  cup  boiling  water 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  till  softened.  Chill 
the  cream.  Line  a  three-pint  mould  with  lady  fingers  or 
narrow  slices  of  sponge  cake,  crust  side  out ;  leave  a 
little  space  between  the  slices,  and  have  the  cake  even  at 
the  top.  Whip  the  cream,  and  skim  off  into  a  granite 
1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  \\  tablespoons. 


Charlotte  Russe. 


pan  set  in  ice  water.  Sift  the  powdered  sugar  over  the 
whipped  cream,  and  add  the  vanilla  and  wine.  Dissolve 
the  gelatine  in  the  boiling  water,  and  strain  through  a 
fine  strainer  over  the  whipped  cream.  Then  stir  (not 
beat)  rapidly  with  the  bowl  of  the  spoon  resting  on  the 
bottom  of  the  pan.  Turn  the  pan  with  the  left  hand  while 
stirring  with  the  right.  If  it  feel  lumpy,  lift  the  pan 
from  the  ice  and  place  it  in  warm  water  to  melt  the  gela- 
tine. Stir  till  the  gelatine  is  well  mixed  with  the  cream, 
and  when  nearly  stiff  enough  to  drop,  turn  it  into  the 
mould.  Keep  on  ice,  and  when  ready  to  serve,  turn  out 
and  garnish  the  top  with^W/y. 

This  filling  may  be  used  in  paper  cases  as  directed  in 
No.  1. 


Plain  Bavarian  Cream. 


%  box  gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 


Yi  cup  sugar. 

1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


1  pint  cream. 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  till  soft.  Chill  and 
whip  the  cream  till  you  have  three  pints  of  the  whip. 
Boil  the  remainder  of  the  cream  (or  if  it  be  all  whipped, 
use  a  cup  of  milk)  with  the  sugar ;  and  when  boiling  add 
the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir  till  dissolved.  Strain  into  a 
granite  pan,  add  the  vanilla  or  lemon,  and  wine  if  you 
wish ;  or  flavor  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  choco- 
late, or  one  quarter  of  a  cup  of  strong  coffee.  Place  the 
pan  in  ice  water,  stir  occasionally,  and  when  the  mixture 
is  thoroughly  cold  and  beginning  to  thicken,  stir  in  lightly 
the  whipped  cream.  When  nearly  stiff  enough  to  drop, 
pour  into  the  moulds. 

This  cream  is  sometimes  moulded  in  small  cups. 
Put  half  of  a  canned  apricot  or  peach,  or  three  sections 
of  orange,  or  several  small  cherries,  or  a  candied  plum, 
in  the  bottom  of  the  cup  before  filling  with  the  cream. 
Or  line  a  bowl  with  whole  strawberries  and  fill  with  the 
cream.  This  is  called  a  Strawberry  Charlotte.  Red  b& 
nanas  sliced  may  be  used  in  the  same  manner. 
*  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  1}  tablespoons. 


356  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Riz  a  V  Imperatrice. —  Prepare  the  cream  as  for  Bava- 
rian Cream ;  put  one  cup  of  cooked  rice  in  the  hot  milk. 
and  stir  till  every  grain  is  distinct,  then  proceed  as  directed 
in  the  preceding  receipt. 

Bavarian  Cream,  No.  2   (with  Eggs). 


>£  box  gelatine.1 
}<2  cup  cold  water. 
1  pint  creain. 
1  pint  milk. 


%  cup  sugar. 
%  saltspoonf  ul  salt. 
1  teaspoonful  vanilla 
1  tablespoonf  ul  wine. 


4  eggs  (yolks). 

Soak  the  gelatine  in  cold  water  till  soft.  Chill  and  whip 
the  cream  till  you  have  three  pints.  Keep  the  whipped 
cream  on  ice,  and  boil  the  remainder  of  the  cream,  adding 
enough  milk  to  make  a  pint  in  all.  Beat  the  yolks  of  the 
eggs,  and  add  the  sugar  and  salt.  Pour  the  boiling  milk 
on  the  eggs,  and  when  well  mixed  put  back  in  the 
double  boiler  and  cook  about  two  minutes,  or  just  enough 
to  scald  the  egg.  Stir  constantly,  add  the  soaked  gela- 
tine, and  strain  at  once  into  a  pan  set  in  ice  water. 
When  cool,  add  the  vanilla  and  wine,  or  half  a  cup 
of  orange  juice.  Stir  till  it  begins  to  harden,  then  stir  in 
quickly  the  whipped  cream,  and  when  nearly  stiff  enough 
to  drop,  pour  into  moulds  wet  in  cold  water. 

Chocolate  Bavarian  Cream.  —  Melt  two  sticks  of 
sweetened  chocolate^  and  stir  them  into  the  custard  before 
straining. 

Coffee  Bavarian  Cream.  —  Add  one  quarter  of  a  cup 
of  very  clear,  strong  black  coffee.  Or  boil  half  a  cup  of 
ground  coffee  in  the  milk,  before  straining  it  over  the 


Bavarian  Cream  with  Fruit. 


1  quart  berries. 
1  cup  sugar. 
3^  box  gelatine. 


%  cup  cold  water. 
)^  cup  boiling  water. 
1  pint  cream. 


Strawberries  or  Raspberries.  —  Mash  the  berries  with 
the  sugar  ;  let  them  stand  till  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Strain 
through  a  sieve  fine  enough  to  keep  back  the  seeds.  Soak 

1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  2J  tablespoous 


Bavarian   Cream.  357 

the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water,  then  dissolve  in  the  boiling 
water,  and  strain  it  into  the  berry  juice.  Cool,  and  beat 
till  slightly  thickened  ;  add  the  cream  (whipped),  and  mould 
it  in  a  plain  mould,  or  lined  like  a  Charlotte. 

Pineapple.  —  Stew  a  can  of  grated  pineapple  with  one 
cup  of  sugar  ten  minutes,  and  use  in  the  same  manner 
without  sifting. 

Peaches  and  Apricots.  —  Mash  and  sift  one  can  of 
peaches  or  apricots  (use  juice  and  fruit),  and  stew  with  a 
heaping  cup  of  sugar,  and  use  as  above. 

Norfolk  Cream.  —  Line  a  mould  with  one  pound  of  can- 
died plums ,  having  first  removed  the  stones,  and  spread 
the  plums  out  as  thin  as  possible.  Make  the  plain  Bava- 
rian cream,  and  when  thick  enough  to  drop,  take  out  one 
third  of  it  and  color  with  cochineal;  add  half  a  cup  of 
candied  cherries  cut  in  halves.  Put  a  layer  of  the  white 


FIG.  47.     Mould  of  Bavarian  Cream  garnished  with  Whipped  Cream  and  Fruit. 

cream  next  to  the  plums,  and  fill  the -centre  with  the  pink. 
When  ready  to  serve,  loosen  the  edges  with  a  knife  and 
invert  carefully.  Garnish  with  whipped  cream. 

Mock  Canteloupe.  —  Mould  the  yellow  Bavarian  cream 
in  a  melon  mould  lined  with  lady  fingers,  and  when  ready 
to  serve,  turn  out  on  a  dish  and  sprinkle  the  top  of  the 
cream  thickly  with  chopped  pistachio  nuts,  or  any  green 
fruit,  plums,  or  angelica.  Garnish  with  whipped  cream 
and  candied  fruit. 

Prune  Pudding.  (Mrs.  A.  A.  Lincoln.)  —  Make  a 
small  mould  of  lemon  jelly.  Boil  large  selected  prunes 
slowl}*  until  very  tender,  taking  care  to  keep  the  skins 
unbroken.  Drain  and  place  in  a  glass  dish.  Break  up 


358  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  jelly  all  about  them,  so  that  it  will  have  the  appearance 
of  being  made  together.  Pile  whipped  cream,  prepared  as 
for  Charlotte  Russe,  No.  1,  over  the  prunes  and  jelly. 

Creme  Diplomate.     (Miss  M.  L.  Clarke.) 


%  box  gelatine.1 
%  cup  cold  water. 
1  pint  cream. 
%  cup  sugar. 


4  eggs  (whites) 
1  teaspoonf  ul  vanilla. 
1  tablespoonful  wine. 
1  cup  French  fruit. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water.  Chill  and  whip  the 
cream.  Boil  the  cream  left  in  the  bowl  with  milk  enough 
to  make  a  pint  in  all.  Add  the  sugar,  and  when  boiling 
add  the  soaked  gelatine.  Stir  until  dissolved,  and  strain 
it  into  the  well-beaten  whites  of  the  eggs.  Add  the  vanilla, 
and  the  wine,  if  you  approve.  Stir  well,  and  when  slightly 
thickened  add  the  whipped  cream.  When  stiff  enough  to 
drop,  add  the  French  fruit.  Mould  it,  and  garnish  with 
wine  jelly,  fruit,  and  green  leaves.  Or  add  one  pint  of 
blanched  almonds  m  pistachio  nuts,  chopped  fine,  instead 
of  the  fruit. 

Combinations  of  Jelly,  Cream,  Custard,  and  Cake. 

Royal  Diplomatic  Pudding.  (Miss  JParloa.)  —  Make 
lemon,  orange,  or  wine  jelly,  using  only  two  thirds  of  a 
pint  of  boiling  water,  that  it  may  be  stiff  enough  to  mould. 

Strain  it  into  a 
pitcher.  Place  a 
two-quart  mould 
in.  a  pan  of  ice 
water ;  pour  in 
jelly  half  an  inch 

FIG.  48.    Royal  Diplomatic  Pudding.  deep.    When  hard, 

put     in      candied 

fruit  in  some  fanciful  design.  Cut  cherries  in  halves,  and 
cut  plums  to  represent  leaves,  and  arrange  them  like  a 
cluster  of  cherries  ;  or  cut  the  cherries  smaller,  and  design 
a  branch  of  barberries.  Fasten  each  piece  of  fruit  in  place 

1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  2.J  tablespoons. 


Fancy  Creams.  359 


with  a  few  drops  of  the  liquid  jell}*,  and  when  hard  add 
jeliy  to  cover  the  fruit.  When  this  is  hard,  place  a  smaller 
mould  in  the  centre  on  the  jelly  and  fill  with  ice.  Pour 
the  remainder  of  the  jelly  between  the  two  moulds,  adding 
it  slowly,  and  dropping  in  fruit  here  and  there,  if  you 
choose,  until  the  mould  is  full.  When  the  jell}'  is  all  firm, 
remove  the  ice,  and  add  warm,  not  hot,  water  to  the 
smaller  mould,  and  take  it  out  carefully,  without  breaking 
the  wall  of  jelly.  Fill  the  space  with  a  JBavarian  cream 
(page  356).  Make  a  rich  soft  custard  with  the  yolks  of 
five  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  a  pint  of  milky  strain, 
and  flavor  with  vanilla.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  the 
mould  in  warm  water,  put  a  dish  over  it,  and  invert  dish 
and  mould  together.  Remove  the  mould  carefully,  and 
pour  the  soft  custard  around  the  pudding.  Make  the  soft 
custard  while  the  jelly  is  hardening ;  and  do  not  put  the 
materials  for  the  Bavarian  cream  together  until  the  small 
mould  is  removed  from  the  jelly,  and  the  cavity  ready  for 
the  cream.  Do  not  turn  out  of  the  mould  until  just  before 
it  goes  to  the  table,  as  the  slightest  jarring  breaks  the 
jelly.  A  coffee  cup  within  a  quart  bowl,  and  a  small  pail 
within  a  larger  one,  have  been  successfully  used  by  those 
who  had  no  moulds. 

A  variety  of  dishes  may  be  made  by  using  the  differ- 
ent colored  jellies  and  fruits ;  and  any  of  the  creams  stiff 
enough  to  mould  can  be  used  as  filling.  Snow  Pudding. 
or  Creme  Diplomate  and  Wine  Jelly,  Norfolk  Cream 
and  Lemon  Jelly,  Orange  Sponge  and  Orange  Jelly,  are 
attractive  combinations.  It  may  also  be  made  in  two  sizes 
of  small  moulds,  serving  one  mould  to  each  person. 

G&teau  St.  Honore.  —  Line  a  pie  plate  with  thin  puff 
paste,  prick  with  a  fork,  and  bake  light  brown.  Make  a 
cream  cake  paste  (see  Index) ,  press  it  through  a  pastry 
bag  round  the  edge  of  a  jelly  cake  tin,  and  bake  the  re- 
mainder in  balls  the  size  of  walnuts.  Place  the  puff  paste 
on  a  plate,  and  spread  with  raspberry  jam  or  orange  mar- 
malade.  Lay  the  border  of  cream  cake  paste  on  the  edge, 
and  press  it  into  the  marmalade.  FiT  the  centre  with  any 


360  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

kind  of  Bavarian  cream.  Garnish  with  the  cream  cake 
balls  a,ud  fruit.  Use  orange  sections  with  orange  marma- 
lade, and  candied  cherries  and  plums  with  raspberry  jam. 

Sponge  cake  or  feather  cake,  baked  thin  in  a  round  tin 
plate,  is  more  delicate  than  puff  paste  as  a  foundation  for 
the  gateau. 

Gdteau  de  Princess  ^Louise.  —  Bake  sponge  drop  mix- 
ture or  feather  cake  or  snow  cake  in  jelly  cake  tins.  Cut 
the  centre  from  one  cake,  leaving  a  rim  one  inch  and  a 
half  wide.  Put  jetty  on  the  remaining  cake,  lay  the  rim 
on  the  edge,  and  fill  the  centre  with  Bavarian  cream. 
Garnish  with  candied  fruit.  Frost  the  rim  if  you  prefer. 

Chantitty  Baskets.  —  Dip  the  edges  of  soft  flexible 
macaroons  in  syrup,  prepared  as  for  crystallized  fruit,  and 
form  them  into  a  basket  on  a  fancy  plate,  something  as 
children  shape  a  burr  basket.  A  rim  and  handle  of  paste- 
board aid  in  keeping  the  shape.  When  dry,  fill  with  any 
fancy  Bavarian  cream. 


FIG.  49     Strawberry  Charlotte. 

Andermatt  Cream. 

Cook  half  a  cup  of  washed  rice  in  one  cup  of  boiling 
water  until  the  water  is  absorbed ;  then  turn  it  into  the 
double  boiler  with  three  cups  of  boiling  milk.  Steam  it 
until  tender.  Stir  in  one  heaped  cup  of  a  mixture  of 
preserved  fruits.  When  cool,  stir  in  one  pint  of  thick 
cream  whipped  stiff,  and  turn  it  into  a  melon  mould. 
When  firm,  turn  out,  and  serve  with  sponge  cake. 


Ice  Cream.  361 


ICE-CREAM  AND   SHERBET. 

A  GOOD  ice-cream  freezer  should  be  in  every  kitchen ; 
for  with  it  a  great  variety  of  wholesome  and  attractive 
dishes  may  be  prepared  with  veiy  little  expenditure  of 
time  and  strength.  Fruit,  cream,  and  eggs,  when  frozen, 
are  more  palatable  in  hot  weather  than  when  served  in 
other  ways.  A  deep  can,  four  inches  in  diameter,  with  a 
tight  cover  fitting  outside  the  can,  and  packed  in  a  firkin 
with  ice  and  salt,  makes  a  good  substitute  for  a  freezer. 
By  scraping  the  cream  from  the  sides  and  beating  occa- 
sionall}'  with  a  large  bread-knife  as  the  cream  freezes,  one 
ma}*  have  a  very  smooth  quality  of  cream  with  very  little 
effort. 

But  whether  with  a  patent  or  home-made  freezer,  the 
essential  points  are  to  have  the  ice  finely  crushed,  to  use 
the  right  proportion  of  coarse  rock  salt,  and  to  beat  the 
mixture  thorough!}*  during  the  freezing.  Salt  has  a  great 
affinity  for  water,  and  when  mixed  with  broken  ice  it 
unites  with  the  water ;  the  ice,  in  changing  from  its  solid 
form  to  a  liquid,  parts  with  its  heat,  and  the  mixture  of 
melted  ice  and  salt  is  many  degrees  colder  than  the  ice 
alone.  This  is  sufficient  to  reduce  to  the  freezing-point 
the  temperature  of  any  liquid  placed  in  the  ice  and  salt. 
The  finer  the  ice  is  crushed,  the  quicker  it  melts  ;  and  the 
more  the  mixture  is  stirred,  the  sooner  all  parts  become 
chilled.  The  melted  ice  and  salt  should  surround  the  can, 
and  not  be  drawn  off  as  fast  as  melted.  For  this  reason 
it  is  a  mistake  to  have  the  outlet  for  the  water  in  the  bot- 
torn  of  the  firkin.  It  should  be  just  below  the  top  of  the 
can,  and  then  the  water  will  run  out  before  it  can  get  in- 
side the  can.  Draw  it  off  only  when  it  floats  the  ice.  The 
ice  should  be  nearly  as  fine  as  the  salt.  Use  one  part 


362  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

salt  to  three  or  four  parts  ice.  An  easy  way  is  to  measure 
each  with  a  saucer  or  small  shallow  pan.  Put  in  a  layer 
of  ice  three  inches  deep  (pack  it  in  solidly) ,  then  a  meas- 
ure of  salt  (sprinkle  it  evenly  on  the  ice) ,  then  three  meas- 
ures of  ice  and  one  of  salt,  etc.,  till  the  freezer  is  fall. 
Pack  each  layer  in  closely  with  a  wooden  paddle,  and  turn 
the  freezer  handle  occasionally  while  packing.  Be  sure  that 
the  freezer  works  perfectly  before  adding  the  cream.  The 
bearings  and  gears,  and  the  socket  in  the  tub  should  be 
kept  well  oiled.  When  the  cream  is  thoroughly  cold,  pour 
it  into  the  can.  Turn  slowly  at  first,  and  after  ten  minutes 
more  rapidly,  till  you  can  turn  no  longer.  Remove  the 
beater,  scrape  off  the  cream,  and  beat  and  pack  the 
cream  closely  in  the  can.  Put  a  cork  into  the  opening 
in  the  cover,  and  lay  the  cross-piece  over  to  keep  the  can 
down  in  the  ice.  Cover  with  a  piece  of  old  carpeting  wet 
in  the  salt  and  water.  If  the  ice  and  salt  have  been  well 
packed,  and  the  cream  is  to  be  served  within  an  hour  and 
not  moulded,  no  more  ice  will  be  needed ;  but  if  to  be 
kept  longer,  draw  off  the  water  and  pack  again.  If  to  be 
moulded,  beat  the  cream  well,  and  pack  into  the  mould  ; 
bind  the  top  with  a  buttered  paper  or  cloth,  cover  closely, 
and  bury  in  ice  and  salt. 

After  using  the  freezer,  clean  and  scald  the  can  ;  dry 
thoroughly,  and  keep  it  uncovered  while  not  in  use. 
Drain  the  salt  left  in  the  freezer,  and  use  again.  Use 
Turk's  Island  or  coarse  rock  salt,  and  not  what  is  called 
coarse  fine  salt. 

Ice-Cream,  No.  1  (Philadelphia  Ice-Cream). 

2  quarts  cream ;  if  thick,  add     I     2  cups  sugar. 

1  pint  milk.  I      2  tablespoonfuls  vanilla. 

This  is  the  simplest,  and  to  many  the  most  delicious, 
form  of  ice-cream.  Scald  the  cream  ;  melt  the  sugar  in  it, 
and  flavor  when  cool.  Freeze  as  directed  above.  The 
cream  should  be  very  sweet  and  highl}'  flavored,  as  both 
sweetness  and  flavor  are  lessened  by  freezing.  To  make 
it  lighter  and  more  delicate,  whip  the  cream  until  you  have 


Ice  Cream.  363 


a  quart  of  froth,  and  add  the  froth  after  the  cream  is  partly 
frozen.  Many  prefer  to  add  the  whites  of  eggs,  beaten 
till  foamy,  but  not  stiff.  Use  two,  three,  or  four  eggs  to 
each  quart  of  cream.  The  proportion  of  sugar  should  vary 
according  to  the  flavoring  used. 

Ice-Cream,  No.  2  (Neapolitan  Ice-Cream). 


1  quart  milk. 

(6  or  8  eggs  yolks) 

1  cup  sugar. 


1  pint  to  1  quart  cream. 
Sugar  to  taste. 
Flavoring. 


Make  a  boiled  custard  with  the  milk,  sugar,  and  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs.  Cook  it  slightly  till  smooth,  but  not 
curdled.  Strain,  and  when  cool  add  the  cream,  sugar  to 
make  it  quite  sweet,  and  any  flavoring  desired.  The  cus- 
tard, when  made  with  cream  instead  of  milk,  makes  the 
richest  kind  of  ice-cream.  If  cream  cannot  be  obtained, 
beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  till  foamy,  and  add  them  just 
before  freezing.  No  matter  how  many  eggs  are  used,  a 
little  cream,  if  not  more  than  half  a  cupful,  is  a  decided 
improvement  to  all  ice-creams.  It  is  better  to  make  sher- 
bet, or  fruit  and  water  ices,  than  an  inferior  quality  of  ice- 
cream with  milk.  Ice-creams  are  richer  and  mould  better 
when  made  with  gelatine  ;  but  care  must  be  taken  to  flavor 
highly,  to  disguise  the  taste  of  the  gelatine.  Use  a  quarter 
of  a  box  of  Nelson's  gelatine  for  two  quarts  of  custard. 
Soak  in  half  a  cup  of  cold  milk,  and  dissolve  in  the  boiling 
custard  just  as  it  is  taken  from  the  fire.  If  by  any  acci 
dent  the  custard  should  curdle  in  cooking,  it  will  be  smooth 
when  frozen. 

Ice-Cream,  No.  3.     (Miss  Parloa.) 


1  pint  milk. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  tablespoonfuls  flour. 
1  saltspoonful  salt. 


2  eggs. 

1  pint  to  1  quart  cream. 

3^  to  1  cup  sugar. 

1  tablesp.  flavoring  extract. 


Boil  the  milk.     Mix  the  sugar,  flour,  and  salt ;  add  the 
whole  eggs,  and  beat  all  together.     Add  the  boiling  milk, 


364  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  when  well  mixed  turn  into  the  double  boiler,  and  cook 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  constantly  till  smooth ;  after  that, 
occasionally.  When  cool,  add  the  cream,  flavoring,  and 
sugar  to  make  it  quite  sweet.  This  makes  a  smooth  and 
delicious  cream ;  and  if  the  milk  be  boiling  and  the  custard 
cook  fully  twenty  minutes,  there  will  be  no  taste  of  the 
flour. 

The  following  flavorings,  with  either  of  these  receipts 
for  a  foundation,  will  give  a  great  many  varieties  of 
ice-cream. 

Vanilla  Ice-  Cream.  —  Use  one  tablespoonful  of  FOBS' 
extract  or  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  the  pounded 
vanilla  bean  sugar. 

Lemon  Ice- Cream.  —  One  tablespoonful  of  lemon 
extract. 

Chocolate  Ice-Cream.  —  Melt  two  bars  of  sweetened 
vanilla  chocolate  with  one  or  two  tablespoonfids  of  water ; 
add  a  little  cream  or  custard,  and  when  smooth  stir  it  into 
the  remainder  of  the  custard.  Add  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  vanilla.  Confectioners  sometimes  mix  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  Ceylon  cinnamon  with  the  chocolate.  It  gives  a 
rich,  spicy  flavor. 

Coffee  Ice- Cream. — Make  half  a  cup  of  very  strong 
black  coffee  for  two  quarts  of  cream ;  or  boil  half  a  cup 
of  ground  coffee  in  the  milk. 

Caramel  Ice-  Cream.  —  Add  half  a  cup  of  caramel  (see 
page  134),  and  omit  part  of  the  usual  amount  of  sugar. 

Pineapple  Ice-  Cream.  —  Add  half  a  can  of  grated  pine- 
apple or  one  pint  of  the  ripe  fruit,  grated. 

Strawberry  Ice-Cream.  — Sprinkle  sugar  over  the  ber- 
ries ;  mash,  and  rub  through  a  fine  sieve.  Measure  the 
juice,  and  use  one  pint  of  juice  to  two  quarts  of  cream  or 
custard.  Add  more  sugar  as^  the  berries  require.  Use 
the  French  bottled  strawberries  when  the  ripe  fruit  cannot 
be  obtained. 

Banana  Ice -Cream.  — Make  a  custard  with  one  pint 
of  milk,  one  cup  of  sugar,  and  two  eggs.  When  cold, 
add  one  pint  of  cream,  and  six  bananas,  sifted,  or  cut  in 


Ice  Cream.  365 


thin  slices.  Add  a  little  lemon  juice  if  the  bananas  lack 
flavor. 

Baked  Apple  Ice  -  Cream.  —  Bake  and  sift  six  sweet 
apples.  Add  one  quart  of  rich  cream,  and  sugar  to  taste. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  freeze. 

Pistachio  Ice-  Cream.  —  One  cup  of  pistachio  nuts,  and 
one  quarter  of  a  cup  of  almonds,  blanched,  chopped,  and 
pounded  to  a  paste.  Add  this  to  any  receipt  for  ice-cream. 

Macaroon,  Almond,  Walnut,  Cocoanut,  or  Brown 
Bread  Ice -Cream  may  be  made  by  adding  one  pint  of 
either  of  the  above  ingredients  to  any  receipt  for  ice* 
cream.  Crumble  the  macaroons  and  cocoanut  cakes,  and 
brown  them  slightty ;  dry,  crumble,  and  sift  the  brown 
bread,  and  chop  the  nuts  fine. 

Fruit  Ice  -  Cream.  —  Canned  fruit,  or  ripe  fruit  sweet- 
ened to  taste,  and  cut  into  small  pieces,  may  be  added  to 
partlj*  frozen  cream,  giving  many  delicious  varieties.  Use 
peaches,  strawberries,  raspberries,  pineapples,  apricots^ 
or  cherries. 

Cafe  Parfait.  —  One  pint  of  cream,  one  cup  of  sugar, 
half  a  cup  of  strong,  clear  coffee.  Mix,  chill,  and  whip. 
Take  the  froth  off  into  a  freezer  or  into  a  mould.  Pack 
the  mould  in  ice  and  salt,  and  let  it  stand  two  hours  with- 
out stirring. 

Glace  Cream.  —  Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one  scant 
cup  of  water  until  the  syrup  forms  into  a  ball  when  rubbed 
in  water  between  the  finger  and  thumb.  Then  pour  this 
syrup  in  a  fine  stream  into  the  whites  of  three  eggs  beaten 
stiff,  and  beat  till  stiff  and  cool.  Stir  it  into  any  frozen 
cream,  made  with  a  little  less  than  the  usual  amount  of 
sugar. 

Ice -Cream  with  Condensed  Milk.  —  Mix  one  can  of 
condensed  milk  with  three  pints  of  scalded  milk,  and  use 
in  making  a  rich  custard,  as  directed  in  rule  No.  2.  Flavor 
highly,  and  add  a  pound  of  candied  fruit  if  desired. 

Tutti  Frutti. —  Make  either  of  the  receipts  for  ice- 
cream, and  flavor  with  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Sicily  Ma- 
deira wine  or  Maraschino,  When  partly  frozen,  add  one 


366  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

pound  of  French  candied  fruit,  cut  fine.  Use  a  mixture 
of  cherries,  plums,  apricots,  pineapples,  pears,  strawber- 
ries, and  angelica  root.  Or  use  home-made  preserves, 
carefully  drained  from  the  syrup,  and  cut  into  dice. 

Nesselrode  Pudding.  —  Shell  one  pint  of  chestnuts. 
Blanch,  and  boil  half  an  hour,  then  mash  to  a  pulp,  and 
stir  into  ice-cream  made  from  rule  No.  2.  Strain,  and 
when  partly  frozen  add  one  pint  of  mixed  fruit,  cut  fine. 

Frozen  Pudding.  —  Make  ice-cream,  No.  3  ;  add  two 
tablespoonfuls  of  soaked  gelatine,  flavor  with  wine  and 
vanilla,  and  freeze.  Cut  a  pound  of  French  fruit  or 
brandy  peaches  in  small  pieces  ;  or  use  half  a  pound  of 
mixed  raisins,  currants,  and  citron,  and  one  cup  of  mac- 
aroons, pounded,  or  one  cup  of  mixed  almonas  and  pista- 
chio nuts,  pounded  fine.  Wash,  and  soak  the  currants  and 
raisins  until  swollen.  Remove  the  seeds,  drain  and  quarter 
the  raisins,  and  shave  the  citron  in  small  thin  slices.  Mix 
half  the  fruit  and  nuts  with  the  frozen  cream.  Butter  a 
melon  mould  slightly,  and  line  with  lady  fingers  /  then 
sprinkle  over  a  layer  of  mixed  fruit,  pack  in  the  frozen 
cream  nearly  to  the  top,  then  a  layer  of  fruit,  and  cover 
with  cake.  Cover  closely,  and  bind  a  strip  of  buttered 
cloth  round  the  edge  of  the  cover.  Pack  in  ice  and  salt 
for  two  hours.  When  ready  to  serve,  dip  quickly  in  warm 
water,  and  turn  out  carefully.  Sprinkle  the  remainder  of 
the  mixed  nuts  over  the  top,  and  garnish  with  cream, 
sweetened,  flavored,  and  whipped.  Some  prefer  to  serve 
a  rich  boiled  custard -sauce,  made  with  one  pint  of  cream, 
the  yolks  of  four  eggs,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  vanilla. 


1  quart  milk. 
1  pint  cream. 
6  whole  eggs. 
3  egg  yolks. 


Plombiere.     (Miss  Ward.} 

\%  cup  sugar. 


2  ounces  each  of  preserved  cit- 
ron, greengages,  and  pine- 
apple, cut  fine. 


Boil  the  milk  and  cream,  and  pour  it  on  the  beaten  eggs 
and  sugar.  Cook  slightly,  an4  when  cool  add  the  fruit. 
and  freeze, 


Sherbets,  Water  Ices.  367 

Bombe  Glace.  —  Line  a  mould  or  the  freezer  with  one 
quart  of  raspberry  or  pomegranate  sherbet.  Pack  the 
sherbet  round  the  bottom  and  sides  of  the  mould  one  inch 
deep.  Fill  the  centre  with  Bavarian  cream,  or  Charlotte 
Husse  cream,  or  Creme  Diplomate.  Cover  with  the  sher- 
bet, and  pack  in  ice  and  salt  one  hour. 

Biscuit  Glace.  —  Ice-cream  and  sherbet  are  often  served 
in  small,  fancy  paper  cases,  which  may  be  obtained  at  a 
confectioner's.  Make  and  freeze  the  cream,  and  fill  the 
paper  cases  with  two  kinds,  either  sherbet  and  plain  ice- 
cream, or  sherbet  and  tutti  frutti,  or  Charlotte  Russe  cream 
and  sherbet,  or  ice-cream.  Pack  the  cases  in  a  freezer, 
and  keep  on  ice  and  salt  till  very  hard.  Serve  on  a  lace 
paper  napkin  laid  on  a  fane}7  plate.  Sometimes  the  bis- 
cuits are  covered  with  a  meringue,  and  colored  slightly 
with  a  salamander  just  before  serving. 

Frozen  Apricots.  —  Cut  one  can  of  apricots  into  small 
pieces,  add  one  pint  of  sugar  and  one  quart  of  water. 
When  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  freeze.  When  partly  frozen 
add,  if  you  like,  one  pint  of  whipped  cream,  measured 
after  whipping.  This  is  delicious  without  the  cream. 
Peaches,  pineapples,  cherries,  and  strawberries  are  deli- 
cious when  frozen.  Vary  the  amount  of  sugar  as  the  fruit 
requires. 

Sherbets,  or  Water  Ices. 

Sherbets,  or  water  ices,  are  made  with  the  juice  of  fruit, 
water,  and  sugar.  With  a  supply  of  canned  fruit,  or  fruit 
syrup  always  at  hand,  a  variety  of  delicious  desserts  may 
be  quickly  prepared.  A  tablespoonful  of  gelatine,  soaked 
and  dissolved,  gives  a  light  and  smooth  consistency  to 
water  ices.  Many  prefer  to  boil  the  water  and  sugar  to  a 
clear  syrup,  remove  the  scum,  and  when  cool  add  the  fruit 
juice ;  and  others  use  the  white  of  egg  beaten  stiff,  add- 
ing it  after  the  sherbet  is  partly  frozen.  The  following 
are  some  of  the  most  delicious  water  ices.  Follow  the 
directions  given  under  Orange  Sherbet,  for  all  the  othej 
varieties. 


368  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Orange  Sherbet. 


1  tablespoonful  gelatine. 
%  cup  cold  water. 
%  cup  boiling  water. 
1  cup  sugar. 


1  cup  cold  water. 
6  oranges,  or 
1  pint  of  juice. 


Soak  the  gelatine  in  the  cold  water  ten  minutes.  Add  the 
boiling  water,  and  when  dissolved  add  the  sugar,  anothei 
cup  of  cold  water  and  the  orange  juice.  Strain  when  the 
sugar  is  dissolved,  and  freeze. 

Pomegranate  Sherbet.  —  Make  the  same  as  Orange 
Sherbet,  using  the  blood-red  oranges. 

Lemon  Sherbet. 

1  tablespoonful  gelatine.1  1  pint  sugar. 

1  quart  water.  Juice  of  6  lemons. 

The  boiling  water  used  in  dissolving  the  gelatine  should 
be  part  of  the  quart  of  water. 


Pineapple  Sherbet. 


1  can  grated,  or 
1  pint  fresh  fruit. 


1  pint  water. 

1  tablespoonful  gelatine. 


1  pint  sugar. 

In  using  fresh  pineapple  be  careful  to  remove  all  the 
eyes. 

Raspberry  and  Strawberry  Sherbet. 


1  pint  berry  juice. 

1  pint  sugar. 

1  pint  water. 

Juice  of  2  lemons. 

1  tablespoonful  gelatine.* 


Or,  1  pint  preserved  fruit. 
1  cup  sugar. 

1  quart  water. 

2  lemons. 

1  tablespoonful  gelatine. 


When  using  preserved  strawberries  or  raspberries,  soak 
the  fruit  in  part  of  the  water  and  strain  out  the  seeds. 

1  If  granulated  gelatine,  use  £  teaspoon. 


Cake  Making.  369 


GENERAL   DIRECTIONS   FOR  MAKING 
CAKE. 

STUDY  first  the  directions  given  under  Measuring,  Mix- 
ing, and  Baking. 

Cake  is  a  mixture  of  part  or  all  of  the  following  mate- 
rials :  eggs,  sugar  or  molasses,  flour,  butter  or  cream,  milk 
or  water,  fruit,  soda,  cream  of  tartar,  spices,  etc. 

An  unlimited  variety  of  cakes  may  be  made  by  varying 
the  proportions  of  these  materials,  and  to  the  same  pro- 
"portions  many  different  names  are  given.  Many  amusing 
experiences  are  known  of  the  eagerness  with  which  a  newly 
named  receipt  for  cake  is  received,  which,  after  many  trials, 
has  been  found  to  be  an  old  receipt  arranged  in  a  different 
order.  An  analysis  of  the  hundreds  of  receipts  given  in 
books  devoted  to  cake-making  would  show  that  the  gen- 
eral principles  involved  may  be  included  under  two  di- 
visions, namety,  receipts  for  sponge  cakes,  made  without 
butter;  and  pound  QV  cup  cakes,  made  with  butter.  Sponge 
cakes  are  made  rich  with  eggs,  the  lightness  depending 
wholly  upon  the  amount  of  air  beaten  into  the  egg ;  or  an 
inferior  qualitj'  is  sometimes  made  by  substituting  soda 
and  cream  of  tartar  for  part  of  the  eggs,  and  adding  more 
flour  and  some  liquid,  usually  water.  They  vary  in  color, 
according  as  the  white  or  yolk  of  the  egg  is  used.  Butter 
cakes  are  varied  in  the  same  way,  and  also  by  the  addi- 
tion of  fruit,  or  spices,  or  various  coloring  and  flavoring 
materials. 

There  is  no  one  department  in  cooking  where  so  much 
depends  upon  the  baking  as  in  making  cake.  The  fire 
should  be  rather  low,  but  sufficient  to  last  through  the 
entire  baking.  In  many  stoves  it  is  exceedingly  difficult 
to  bake  cake  by  a  morning  fire  ;  as  so  much  coal  is  put  on, 

24 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


the  fire  is  too  hot  and  cannot  be  checked  sufficiently.  The 
oven  should  be  less  hot  than  for  bread.  If  too  hot,  leave 
the  oven  door  open  for  ten  minutes  before  putting  in  the 
cake,  then  watch  it,  and  protect  it  by  putting  over  it  a 
covering  of  paper,  or  a  pan  on  the  grate  above.  Do  not 
attempt  to  make  cake  unless  you  can  have  entire  control 
of  the  fire. 

Thin  cakes  require  a  hotter  oven  than  those  baked  in 
thick  loaves.  If  the  oven  be  not  hot  enough  at  first,  or  be 
cooled  too  suddenly  during  the  baking,  the  cake  will  not 
be  light.  Cakes  with  molasses  in  them  burn  more  quickly 
than  others.  Thin  cakes  should  bake  from  fifteen  to 
twenty  minutes,  thicker  cakes  from  thirty  to  forty  minutes, 
very  thick  loaves  about  an  hour,  and  fruit  cake  from  two 
to  three  hours.  Whichever  kind  you  are  baking,  divide 
the  time  required  into  quarters.  During  the  first  quarter 
the  heating  is  not  manifested  in  appearance  except  by  the 
rising  ;  during  the  second  the  cake  should  continue  to  rise 
and  begin  to  brown  ;  then  should  become  all  over  a  rich 
golden  brown  ;  and  in  the  last  quarter  settle  a  little,  brown 
in  the  cracks,  and  shrink  from  the  pan.  Be  careful  not  to 
take  it  out  too  soon.  If  necessary  to  move  it,  do  it  very 
gently,  and  never  move  it  when  it  has  risen  to  the  full 
height,  but  is  not  browned  or  fixed  in  its  shape. 

If  cake  brown  before  rising,  the  oven  is  too  hot.  When 
it  rises  more  in  the  centre,  cracks  open,  and  stays  up,  it  is 
too  stiff  with  flour.  It  should  rise  first  on  the  edges,  then 
in  the  middle,  crack  slightly,  settle  to  a  level  again,  when 
the  cracks  usually  come  together.  Nothing  is  more  sug- 
gestive of  bakeshop  cake,  or  inferior  quality  in  material, 
than  a  loaf  with  an  upper  surface  having  sharp  edges, 
then  hollows,  and  a  peaked  centre,  as  if  the  inside  of  the 
cake  had  boiled  up  and  run  out  over  the  top. 

Line  your  cake  tins  with  paper,  to  prevent  burning  the 
bottom  and  edges  and  to  aid  in  removing  the  cake  from 
the  pans.  Lay  the  paper  over  the  outside  of  the  pan,  and 
crease  it  round  the  edge  of  the  bottom.  Allow  it  large 
enough  to  come  above  the  top  of  the  pan.  Fold  in  the 


Cake  Making.  371 


middle  lengthwise  and  crosswise,  and  cut  out  the  open 
corners  to  the  crease  made  by  the  pan.  Then  fit  it  into 
the  inside  of  the  pan,  and  grease  the  paper,  not  the  pan, 
with  fresh  butter  or  lard.  Many  use  a  rag  tied  on  a  stick  ; 
others  grease  with  a  brush.  Nice  brushes  are  very  ex- 
pensive (and  no  others  are  suitable),  and  unless  carefully 
cleaned  are  quite  objectionable.  Rags  and  paper  absorb 
the  grease  which  should  be  put  on  the  pan,  and  in  any  case 
the  fingers  should  be  washed  after  the  process.  So  there 
is  no  quicker,  easier,  or  more  economical  way  of  greasing 
a  tin  than  to  rub  the  butter  on  with  the  fingers. 

Mix  cake  in  an  earthen  bowl,  and  never  in  a  tin  pan. 
Use  a  wooden  spoon,  as  iron  spoons  discolor  the  hand  and 
the  mixture.  Use  only  the  best  materials.  Go  without 
cake  rather  than  try  to  make  it,  or  eat  it  when  made,  with 
what  is  called  cooking  butter  and  second-rate  eggs.  Such 
cake  cannot  be  good  or  wholesome.  Wash  the  butter,  if 
very  salt.  Brown  sugar  is  good  for  fruit  cake,  but  for 
all  other  varieties  use  the  finest  granulated  or  powdered 
sugar.  Very  coarse  granulated  sugar  makes  heavy  cake, 
with  a  hard  and  stick}T  crust.  The  flour  should  be  dry. 
When  it  has  been  kept  in  a  cool  place  it  should  be 
slightly  warmed,  and  always  sifted  before  using.  St. 
Louis  flour  —  or  pastry  flour,  as  it  is  sometimes  called  — 
is  best  for  cake.  When  new-process  flour  is  used,  take 
one  eighth  less.  Soda,  cream  of  tartar,  and  baking- 
powders  should  be  crushed  and  sifted  into  the  flour,  then 
sifted  two  or  three  times  with  the  flour.  Mix  spices 
with  the  flour  or  with  the  sugar.  Mix  a  little  of  the 
measure  of  flour  with  the  fruit  to  keep  it  from  sticking 
together  or  settling.  If  the  sugar  be  lumpy,  crush  and  sift 
before  using.  Eggs  should  be  fresh,  and  cooled  by  keep- 
ing in  cold  water  or  in  the  ice-chest.  The  yolks  and 
whites  should  be  beaten  separately.  Break  each  egg  on 
the  edge  of  the  cup,  just  enough  to  crack  the  middle  of  the 
shell,  so  the  white  will  flow  out,  but  not  hard  enough  to 
break  into  the  3rolks.  Then  hold  the  egg  over  the  cup, 
with  the  cracked  side  up,  and  break  it  apart.  Let  the 


3/2  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

white  run  into  the  cup,  and  keep  the  yolk  in  the  half  shell 
until  all  the  white  is  drained  off'.  Be  careful  not  to  break 
the  yolk,  as  the  smallest  portion  of  it  in  the  whites  will 
prevent  them  from  frothing.  Beat  the  yolks  in  a  bowl, 
and  the  whites  in  a  platter  if  you  use  a  fork  or  whisk,  or 
in  a  bowl  if  you  use  a  Dover  beater.  Never  stop  beating 
the  whites  until  they  are  stiff  and  dry,  as  it  is  impossible 
to  have  them  light  if  they  become  liquid  again. 

Measure  all  the  ingredients,  and  have  the  fire  and  all 
utensils  ready,  before  you  begin  to  mix.  Observe  the  fol- 
lowing order  in  putting  materials  together. 

Sponge  Cake  Mixtures.  —  Beat  the  yolks  until  light  or 
lemon-colored  and  thick.  Add  the  sugar  gradually,  and 
beat  again.  Add  the  lemon  juice  or  flavoring,  and  water, 
if  that  is  to  be  used.  Beat  the  whites  until  stiff  and  dry, 
and  cut  or  fold  them  in  lightty,  then  sift  in  the  flour,  and 
fold  in  carefully  without  any  stirring.  Sponge  cakes  should 
not  be  beaten  after  adding  the  flour.  Those  made  with 
soda  and  cream  of  tartar  require  less  beating  than  those 
without,  but  they  are  a  very  poor  substitute  for  genuine 
sponge  cake. 

Sutter  Cake  Mixtures.  —  Warm  the  bowl  with  hot 
water,  then  wipe  dry.  Put  in  the  butter,  and  rub  with 
a  wooden  or  silver  spoon  until  light  and  creamy.  Be 
careful  not  to  have  the  bowl  so  hot  as  to  melt  the  butter. 
Add  the  sugar  and  beat  again.  If  the  habit  of  rubbing 
the  butter  and  sugar  together  with  the  hand  be  already 
formed,  and  you  find  it  easier  than  to  use  a  spoon,  it  is 
hardly  worth  while  to  change ;  but  for  those  who  are 
wholly  inexperienced  it  is  better  to  learn  to  use  the 
spoon,  and  every  lady  would  prefer  to  have  her  cook 
mix  in  that  way.  If  the  proportion  of  sugar  be  large 
for  the  butter,  —  more  than  double,  —  beat  part  of  the 
sugar  with  the  butter,  and  the  remainder  with  the  yolks 
of  the  eggs.  Where  a  very  small  proportion  of  butter 
is  to  be  used,  it  may  be  melted  and  mixed  with  the 
eggs  and  sugar.  Beat  the  yolks  till  light  and  thick, 
then  beat  them  well  with  the  butter  and  sugar.  Add  the 


Sponge   Cake.  373 


flavoring.  Then  add  a  little  milk,  then  a  little  flour,  and 
milk  again,  and  continue  until  all  the  milk  and  flour  are 
used.  Lastty,  add  the  beaten  whites.  All  cakes  made 
with  butter  require  to  be  beaten  long  and  vigorously  after 
adding  the  flour,  that  they  may  be  smooth  and  fine- 
grained. Fruit  should  be  added  last ;  cake  with  fruit 
should  be  a  little  stifler  with  flour  than  that  without 
fruit.  Citron  and  large  pieces  of  fruit  may  be  put  in 
in  la}~ers,  or  spread  over  the  dough  in  the  pan. 

All  cake  should  be  baked  as  soon  as  possible  after  it  is 
mixed.  Put  the  scrapings  from  the  bowl  into  small  tins. 
If  put  into  the  loaf,  they  sometimes  cause  a  heavy  streak 
through  the  top. 

Cake  is  baked  when  it  shrinks  from  the  pan  and  stops 
hissing,  or  when  a  straw  inserted  in  the  centre  comes  out 
clean.  Remove  the  loaf  from  the  pan  as  soon  as  baked, 
lifting  it  out  by  the  paper ;  or,  if  not  papered,  loosen  the 
edges  with  a  knife,  and  turn  the  pan  over  upon  a  cloth 
laid  over  a  bread-cooler.  Remove  the  pan  as  soon  as 
possible.  Never  let  cake  stand  in  the  pan  to  become 
moist.  When  cake  is  baked  too  hard  or  burned,  rub  off 
the  burned  surface  with  a  coarse  grater. 

Sponge  Cake. 


6  eggs. 

1   cup   sugar,  powdered  or  fine 
granulated. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 

%  lemon  (grated  rind  and  juice). 

1  cup  pastry  flour. 


See  general  directions  for  putting  together  (page  372) « 
The  mixture  should  be  stiff  and  spongy,  of  the  consistency 
of  Charlotte  Russe  filling,  as  it  is  poured  into  the  pan. 
Bake  in  a  deep  bread  pan,  in  a  moderate  oven,  nearly  an 
hour,  —  in  a  shallow  pan,  about  forty  minutes.  If  stirred 
instead  of  beaten,  the  bubbles  of  air  will  be  broken  and  the 
mixture  will  become  liquid.  When  baked,  it  will  be  tough 
and  too  close-grained.  To  make  this  cake  well,  requires 
strength  in  beating  and  judgment  in  baking ;  but  when 
successful,  it  is  one  of  the  most  satisfactory^  and  perfect 


374  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

cakes  made.  Cut  through  the  crust  with  a  sharp  pointed 
knife,  then  break  apart. 

/Sponge  Cake.  (Miss  Jbsselyn.)  —  Beat  the  yolks  of 
three  eggs ;  add  one  cup  of  fine  granulated  sugar,  one 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice,  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
cold  water,  or  a  lump  of  ice  melted  in  the  lemon  juice  to 
make  two  tablespoonfuls  of  liquid.  Add  the  whites,  beaten 
stiff,  and  one  cup  of  pastry  flour. 

Lady  Fingers  and  Sponge  Drops.  —  Four  eggs,  half 
a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  half  a  saltspoonful  of  salt,  one 
teaspoonful  of  flavoring,  and  three  quarters  of  a  cup  of 
pastry  flour.  See  general  directions  for  mixing  sponge 
cakes.  Pour  the  mixture  into  a  pastry  bag,  and  press 
through  it  into  shape,  about  three  inches  long  and  not 
quite  one  inch  wide.  Or  drop  by  the  spoonful  on  a  but- 
tered pan,  and  you  have  Sponge  Drops.  Sprinkle  pow- 
dered sugar  over  them,  and  bake  twelve  or  sixteen  minutes 
in  a  very  slow  oven. 

Miss  Ward's  Sponge  Cake.  —  Break  ten  eggs  into  a 
bowl ;  add  one  pound  of  powdered  sugar,  and  beat  to- 
gether for  half  an  hour  without  stopping.  Add  half  a 
pound  of  flour,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon, 
and  a  wineglassful  of  wine.  Bake  in  deep  pans  one  hour ; 
slowly  at  first,  then  quicken  the  fire  the  last  half-hour. 
Sprinkle  powdered  sugar  over  the  top  before  baking. 

Angel  Cake. — One  cup  of  flour,  measured  after  one 
sifting,  and  then  mixed  with  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of 
tartar  and  sifted  four  times.  Beat  the  whites  of  eleven 
eggs,  with  a  wire  beater  or  perforated  spoon,  until  stiff  and 
flaky.  Add  one  cup  and  a  half  ofjine  granulated  sugar, 
and  beat  again  ;  add  one  teaspoonful  of  vanilla  or  almond? 
then  mix  in  the  flour  quickly  and  lightly.  Line  the  bottom 
and  funnel  of  a  cake  pan  with  paper  not  greased,  pour  in 
the  mixture,  and  bake  about  fort}7  minutes.  When  done, 
loosen  the  cake  around  the  ;  dge,  and  turn  out  at  once. 
Some  persons  have  been  more  successful  with  this  cake  by 
mixing  the  sugar  with  the  flour  and  cream  of  tartar,  aiid 
adding  all  at  once  to  the  beaten  egg. 


Angel  Cake.  375 


Sunshine  Cake.  —  Make  the  same  as  Angel  Cake,  using 
one  teaspoonful  of  orange  extract  instead  of  vanilla,  and 
adding  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  six  eggs  to  the  beaten 
whites  and  sugar  before  adding  the  flour. 

Sponge  Cake  for  Cream  Pies,  or  Berwick  Sponge  Cake. 


1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar  and 
3^  teaspoonful  soda,  or 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Whites  of  3  eggs. 


3  eggs,  yolks. 
\}4  cup  sugar. 
3^  cup  water. 

1  teaspoonful  lemon  extract. 

2  cups  pastry  flour. 

Beat  the  yolks  of  the  eggs  ;  add  the  sugar,  lemon  juice, 
and  water ;  then  the  flour,  mixed  with  the  soda  and  cream 
of  tartar,  and,  lastly,  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Bake  in 
round  shallow  pans.  When  cool,  split  and  fill  with  cream. 

When  each  part  of  the  process  of  beating  is  done  just 
two  minutes  by  the  clock,  and  baked  in  a  loaf,  it  is  called 
Berwick  Sponge  Cake. 

Cream.  —  Boil  one  pint  of  milk.  Beat  two  eggs  ;  add 
half  a  cup  of  sugar  and  one  saltspoonful  of  salt.  Melt 
one  table-spoonful  of  butter  in  a  granite  saucepan,  and 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour.  When  well  mixed,  add 
the  boiling  milk  gradually,  pour  it  on  the  eggs  and  sugar, 
and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  five  minutes,  or  till  smooth. 
When  cool,  flavor  with  lemon,  vanilla,  or  almond. 

/Sponge  Cake  with  Fruit.  —  Make  a  Sponge  Cake,  bake 
in  shallow  pans,  and  put  crushed  and  sweetened  straw- 
berries between  the  layers.  Cover  with  whipped  cream. 
Or  put  one  cup  of  candied  fruit,  cut  fine,  in  a  cream  pre- 
pared as  above,  and  use  in  the  same  way. 

Sponge  Cake  for  Children.  (Miss  M.  L.  Clarke.}  — 
Mix  in  a  bowl  one  cup  and  a  half  of  pastry  flour,  one 
teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of 
*vda.  or  two  level  teaspoons  of  baking-powder,  sifted  with 
the  flour,  one  cup  of  sugar,  and  one  teaspoonful  of  extract 
of  lemon  or  orange;  two  eggs,  broken  in  a  cup  and  the 
cup  filled  with  milk  or  cream.  Mix  all  in  the  order  given, 
and  beat  very  hard  till  light.  Bake  from  twenty  to 
thirty  minutes  in  a  moderate  oven. 


376  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Roll  JeUy  Cake. 

This  is  the  simplest  form  of  a  butter  cake.  It  is  like  a 
sponge  cake,  with  the  addition  of  a  small  amount  of  short- 
ening. Three  eggs,  beaten  separately  till  very  light,  then 
beaten  together ;  add  one  cup  of  sugar,  three  tablespoon* 
fuls  of  cream,  or  one  of  melted  butter,  one  cup  pastry 
flour  mixed  with  one  teaspoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 
and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  soda,  or  two  level  teaspoons  of 
baking-powder.  Spread  very  thin  on  long  shallow  tins, 
and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven.  Spread  with  jelly  while 
warm,  trim  the  edges  with  a  sharp  knife,  and  roll  up. 


One  Egg  Cake. 


teaspoonful  soda  and 


1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
1  teaspoonful  vanilla. 


%  cup  butter,  creamed. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  egg,  beaten  light. 

1  cup  milk. 

2  cups  flour. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  a  shallow  pan,  in  a 
moderate  oven,  thirty  minutes. 


Park  Street  Cake. 


%  cup  butter. 

1  cup  milk. 

2  cups  sugar. 

3  cups  pastry  flour. 

4  eggs. 


%  teaspoonful  soda. 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar.1 

1   teaspoonful   vanilla   or   lemon 


extract. 


1  saltspoonful  mace. 


Contrary  to  our  usual  practice,  this  receipt  is  not  given 
in  the  order  in  which  the  materials  are  to  be  put  together, 
but  in  numerical  order,  as  an  aid  in  remembering  the  pro- 
portions. Rub  the  butter  in  a  warm  bowl,  with  a  wooden 
spoon,  until  like  cream,  and  add  one  cup  of  the  sugar 
gradually  ;  add  the  remaining  cup  of  sugar  to  the  beaten 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  beat  until  very  light,  and  add  to  the 
butter.  Add  the  flavoring.  Then  beat  the  whites  stiff 
and  dr}r,  and  let  them  stand  while  you  add  a  little 
milk  and  flour  alternately  to  the  mixture.  Add  the 
last.  This  makes  two  loaves.  Bake  in  a  mod- 

1  Or  3  level  teaspoons  baking-powder. 


Orange   Cake.  377 


erate  oven  until  the  loaf  shrinks  from  the  pan.  Halve 
this  receipt,  and  you  have  Feather  Cake ;  or  bake  it  in 
Around  shallow  pans  for  Jelly  Cake  or  for  Cream  Pies 


Orange  Cake. 


2  eggs. 

1  cup  sugar. 

1  tablesp.  melted  butter. 

%  cup  milk. 
1  )<£  cup  flour. 


Yz  teaspoonful  soda  and 
1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 
.3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
1  tablespoouf  ul  orange  juice  and 
a  little  of  the  grated  rind. 


Mix  in  the  order  given.  Bake  in  a  round  shallow  pan, 
split,  and  fill  with  orange  cream. 

Orange  Cream  for  Cake.  —  Put  in  a  cup  the  rind  of 
half  and  the  juice  of  one  orange,  one  tablespoon/id  of 
lemon  juice,  and  fill  with  cold  water.  Strain,  and  put  on 
to  boil.  Add  one  tablespoonful  of  cornstarch,  wet  in 
cold  water.  Stir  till  thick,  then  cook  over  hot  water  ten 
minutes.  Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg,  add  two  heaping 
tdblespoonfuls  of  sugar ,  stir  into  the  starch,  cook  one 
minute,  add  one  teaspoonful  of  butter,  and  cool. 

Fill  the  cake  with  the  cream,  and  frost  with  ornamental 
frosting.  Mark  the  frosting  like  a  pie,  in  eight  pieces, 
and  decorate  each  with  a  section  of  orange  and  ornamental 
frosting. 

Orange  Cake,   No.   2. 

Double  the  preceding  receipt  for  cake,  and  bake  in  two 
long  shallow  pans.  Prepare  the  pulp  of  the  oranges, 
sweeten  to  taste,  and  spread  between  the  cakes.  Frost 
with  orange  frosting.  Cut  into  oblong  pieces.  Or  fill 
with  the  following  cream :  — 

Orange  and  Cocoanut  Cream  for  Cake.  —  One  egg, 
beaten  well ;  add  one  cup  of  whipped  cream,  half  a  cup 
of  sugar,  one  cup  of  grated  cocoanut,  the  grated  rind  of 
half  and  the  juice  of  one  orange.  Put  this  between  and 
on  the  top  of  the  cakes,  and  sprinkle  fresh  cocoanut  over 
the  whole. 


378  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Mother's  Cake.     (Mrs.  R.  M.  Walcott.) 

This  receipt  is  the  foundation  for  countless  varieties  of 
cake,  which  are  often  giren  in  cook  books  under  different 
names,  but  which  when  analyzed  are  found  to  be  identical 
in  proportions. 


1  scant  cup  butter. 

\%  cup  sugar. 

3  eggs,  beaten  separately 

1  teaspoonf  ul  lemon  or  *    nilla. 

1  saltspoonful  mace. 


yi  cup  milk. 

3  cups  pastry  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar  and 

)<£  teaspoonful  soda,  or 

3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 


Cream  the  butter  5  add  the  sugar  gradually,  then  the 
yolks  of  the  eggs,  then  the  flavoring.  Reserve  a  quarter 
of  a  cup  of  flour,  lest  the  cake  be  too  stiff  if  all  be  used  ; 
less  flour  will  be  required  for  a  thin  than  for  a  thick  loaf. 
Put  the  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  into  the  remainder  of 
the  flour.  Add  the  milk  and  flour  alternately,  a  little  at 
a  time,  and  lastly  the  whites,  which  have  been  beaten 
stiff  and  dry.  Bake  from  forty  to  fifty  minutes  in  a 
moderate  oven. 

Add  one  cup  of  currants,  and  it  makes  a  nice  Currant 
Cake ;  or  half  a  cup  of  dates,  cut  fine  and  floured,  and 
you  have  Date  Cake. 

Color  one  cupful  of  the  dough  with  spices,  —  cinnamon, 
allspice,  and  mace,  —  or  with  grated  chocolate,  put  it  in  the 
pan  in  spots,  and  you  have  Leopard  Cake. 

By  using  a  full  cup  of  butter,  it  is  the  same  as  White 
Mountain  Cake. 

For  Nut  Cake  add  one  cup  of  fine  chopped  walnuts,  or 
other  nuts,  to  the  dough,  and  put  a  laj'er  of  unbroken 
halves  of  English  walnuts  over  the  top. 

Or  bake  in  shallow  round  pans,  split  and  spread  with 
a  thin  layer  of  currant  jelly,  and  then  fill  with  Cocoa- 
nut  and  Raisin  Cream  made  as  follows :  One  cup  of 
raisins,  stoned  and  chopped  fine,  half  a  cup  of  chopped 
almonds,  half  a  cup  of  grated  cocoanut,  and  the  white 
of  one  egg,  beaten  stiff. 


Rich  Cake. 


379 


Macdonald  Cake.     (Mrs.  A.  A.  Lincoln.) 


I  cup  butter,  creamed. 

\%  cup  sugar. 

4  eggs  (yolks) 

1  teaspoonful  lemon  or  vanilla. 

^  cup  milk. 

^2  cup  cornstarch. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  two  shallow  pans 
in  a  moderate  oven. 


1)£  cup  pastry  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar  and 
j^  teaspoonful  soda,  or 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Whites  of  the  eggs. 


Cider  Cake. 


1  cup  butter. 

2  cups  sugar. 

3  eggs,  beaten  separately. 
%  cup  cider. 


4  cups  flour. 

1  teaspoonful  soda,  scant. 

1  teaspoonful  spice. 


Mix  soda  and  spice  with  flour,  then  mix  in  the  order 
given,  and  bake  in  two  shallow  pans. 

Dominoes. 

Bake  sponge  or  feather  cake  in  shallow  pans ;  frost,  cut 
in  oblong  pieces,  and  mark  like  dominoes. 


Madelines. 

Bake  any  rich  butter  cake  mixture  quarter  of  an  inch 
thick.  Cut  in  squares  or  rounds  ;  ornament  with  frosting 
and  nuts,  or  candied  fruits . 


Gold  Cake. 


%  cup  butter. 

\%  cup  fine  granulated  sugar. 

Yolks  of  4  eggs. 

1  whole  egg. 

}o  cup  milk. 

Yz  teaspoonful  mace. 

34  teaspoonful  soda  and 

%  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar.1 

2)£  cups  flour. 


Silver  Cake. 


>£  cup  butter. 

\%  cup  sugar. 

jjjl  teaspoonful  almond. 

^  cup  milk. 

24  teaspoonful  soda  and 

%  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

2*4  cups  flour. 

Whites  of  5  eggs. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  putting  soda  and  cream  of  tar- 
tar in  the  flour,  and  adding  milk  and  flour  alternately. 


1  Or  2J  level  teaspoons  baking-powder- 


380  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Bake  in  a  moderate  oven,  until  the  loaf  shrinks  from  the 
pan. 

Watermelon  Cake  may  be  made  from  this  receipt  by  using 
red  sugar  in  the  gold  cake,  and  adding  one  cup  of  raisins, 
seeded,  quartered,  and  rolled  in  flour.  Put  the  red  cake 
in  the  centre  of  a  round  pan,  and  the  white  around  the 
edge.  Or  put  the  red  at  the  bottom,  and  the  white  on 
top.  Bake  in  a  large  round  pan,  or  two  brickloaf  pans. 

Marble  Cake.  —  Color  one  cupful  of  the  yellow  cake 
dough  brown  with  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  chocolate, 
and  mix  the  white,  yellow,  and  brown  in  spots,  or  drop 
the  brown  in  rings  between  the  layers  of  white  and 
yellow. 

Cornstarch  Cake. 


%  cup  butter,  creamed. 

1)£  cup  sugar. 

%  cup  milk. 

%  teaspoonful  almond. 


\%  cup  pastry  flour. 

3^2  teaspoonful  soda. 

1  j^j  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar 

Whites  of  6  eggs. 


3<2  cup  cornstarch. 
Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Snow  Cake.     (Miss  Alice  Walcott.} 


%  cup  butter. 

2  cups  sugar. 

%  cup  milk. 

2%  cups  pastry  flour. 


%  teaspoonful  soda. 

1  j^  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar. 

Whites  of  8  eggs. 

1  teaspoonful  almond  extract. 


Mix  the  soda  and  cream  of  tartar  with  the  flour.  Be 
sure  to  use  one  teaspoonful  and  a  half  of  cream  of  tartar, 
as  the  extra  amount  is  intended  to  stiffen  the  whites  of  the 
eggs.  Rub  the  butter  to  a  cream,  add  the  sugar,  and  beat 
again  ;  add  the  milk  and  flour  alternately,  a  little  at  a  time, 
and  beat  well.  Lastly,  add  the  beaten  whites  and  the  al- 
mond. Bake  in  two  small  pans  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Dream  Cake.  —  Bake  the  Snow  Cake  in  three  shallow 
pans.  Make  the  Ornamental  Frosting,  and  flavor  one 
part  with  lemon,  another  with  vanilla,  and  the  third  with 
rose.  Frost  each  cake,  put  together,  and  sprinkle  grated 
fresh  cocoanut  over  the  top. 


Rich   Cake. 


Buttercup  Cake.     (A.  W.) 

%  teaspoonful  soda  And 

1 3^  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar, 

or  2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 

1  saltspoonful  mace,  or 

1  teaspoonful  lemon. 


%  cup  butter. 
1  %  cup  sugar. 
Yolks  of  8  eggs. 

1  whole  egg. 
%  cup  milk. 

2  cups  flour. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  two  pans  in  a 
moderate  oven  till  the  loaf  shrinks  from  the  pan.  Or 
bake  in  small  round  tins,  and  frost  with  yellow  frosting  > 
and  decorate  with  candied  fruit. 


(Mrs.  Williams.) 
1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar  and 
%  teaspoonful  soda,  or 
3  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Whites  of  3  eggs. 


Harlequin  Cake. 

1  cup  butter,  creamed. 

2  cups  sugar 

3  eggs  (yolks). 
1  cup  milk. 

3  cups  pastry  flour- 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  then  divide  the  dough  into  four 
equal  parts.  Have  two  parts  the  color  of  the  dough. 
Color  the  third  with  two  squares  of  unsweetened  choco- 
late, melted.  Color  the  fourth  part  with  pink  coloring, 
and  bake  each  part  in  a  Washington  pie  plate.  When 
all  are  done,  la}'  first  a  light  cake,  then  the  chocolate,  then 
another  light,  then  the  pink.  Between  the  layers  spread 
lemon  jelly,  and  frost  with  white  frosting. 

Lemon  Jelly  for  Cake.  —  Beat  one  egg,  add  one  cup  of 
water,  the  grated  rind  and  juice  of  one  lemon.  Pour  this 
slowly  on  one  cup  of  sugar,  mixed  with  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  flour.  Cook  in  the  double  boiler  till  smooth,  like  cream. 


ounce  salts  of  tartar, 
pint  boiling  water, 
pound  sugar. 


Pink  Coloring  for  Cake  and  Creams. 

^  ounce  cochineal. 

1*2  ounce  alum. 

3^  ounce  cream  of  tartar. 

To  the  first  three  ingredients  add  the  boiling  water,  and 
put  in  a  porcelain  stewpan.  Let  it  stand  on  the  stove 
without  boiling  for  twent3'-five  minutes.  Add  the  salts 
of  tartar  very  gradually,  stirring  all  the  time.  Add  the 


382 


The  Boston  Cook  Booh 


sugar.    Strain  and  bottle  it.    Use  one  or  two  teaspoonfuls, 
according  to  the  shade  desired. 

Pokeberry  Syrup  for  Coloring  Pink.  —  Put  the  fruit 
in  a  porcelain  kettle,  and  cover  with  water.  Boil  slowly 
till  the  skins  break,  then  strain.  Add  a  pound  of  sugar 
to  a  quart  of 'juice;  boil  a  few  moments,  bottle  and  seal. 

Bibbon  Cake. 


3>£  cups  pastry  flour. 

yz  teaspoonful  soda  and 

1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

3j^  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 


1  cup' butter. 

2  cups  sugar. 

4   eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten 

separately. 
1  cup  milk. 

Have  three  long,  shallow  pans,  of  equal  size.  Divide 
the  dough  into  three  parts.  Bake  two  parts  as  plain  cake  ; 
add  to  the  remaining  dough, 


2  teaspoonfuls  molasses. 
2  teaspoonfuls  brandy  or  wine. 
1  teaspoonful    mixed    mace    and 
cinnamon. 


J*2  cup      raisins,       stoned       and 

chopped. 
1  cup  currants. 
%  pound  sliced  citron  (the  fruit 

all  floured). 

Bake,  and  put  the  fruit  cake  between  the  two  plain 
cakes,  wtih  jelly  between.  Press  it  lightly  with  the  hand 
in  putting  together  ;  trim  the  edges  even,  and  frost. 

Coffee  Cake. 

Use  one  cup  of  strong,  clear  coffee  instead  of  milk,  and 
make  as  in  the  preceding  rule.  Add  the  fruit  and  spices 
to  the  whole  mixture.  Bake  it  in  one  loaf. 


legg. 

%  cup  molasses. 

%  cup  sugar. 

%  cup  melted  butter. 

1  cup  milk. 


Spice  Cakes. 

2jx£  cups  flour. 
1  heaping  teaspoonful  soda. 
1  even  teasp.  cream  of  tartar. 
1  tablespoonful  mixed  spice. 
1  tablespoonful  vinegar. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  small  tins.  One 
tablespoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  one  tablespoonful  of 
ginger  may  be  substituted  for  the  vinegar  and  spice. 


Pound  Cake. 


383 


Plum  Cakes. 

teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar, 
impound     raisins,     stoned     and 
chopped. 

pound  currants. 

2  tablespoonfuls  any  fruit  syrup 
4  cups  flour. 
2  teaspoonfuls  mixed  spices. 

If  not  dark  enough,  add  a  little  melted  chocolate.  Bake 
in  small  tins,  and  frost  part  of  them  with  the  remaining 
white  of  egg. 

Pound  Cake.     (Miss  Ward.) 


1  cup  butter. 

2  cups  brown  sugar. 
Yolks  of  3  eggs. 
Whites  of  2  eggs. 
%  cup  milk. 

%  cup  dark  molasses. 
)£  teaspoonful  soda. 


1  pound  butter. 
1  pound  sugar. 
10  eggs. 


1  pound  flour. 

j*2  wineglass  wine. 

%  wineglass  brandy. 


Cream  the  butter ;  add  the  sugar,  yolks  of  the  eggs,, 
wine,  brandy,  whites  of  the  eggs,  and  the  flour.  Put  cur- 
rants into  one  fourth  of  the  dough,  and  almonds,  blanched 
and  pounded  in  rose  water,  into  another  part ;  leave  the 
remainder  plain.  Fill  very  small  round  tins  three  quarters 
full. .  Into  half  of  those  containing  the  plain  dough  put 
small  pieces  of  citron,  three  in  each,  inserting  the  citron 
upright  a  little  way  into  the  dough.  Sift  sugar  over  the 
tops  of  those  containing  the  citron  and  almond  before  put- 
ting them  into  the  oven.  Bake  twent}r  minutes.  Frost 
the  plain  and  currant  cakes.  Pound  cake  is  lighter  when 
baked  in  small  cakes  than  in  loaves. 


1  pound  butter. 
1  pound  sugar. 
12  eggs. 

1  pound  flour. 

2  teaspoonfuls  each  of  cinnamon 

and  mace. 

1  teaspoonful  each  of  nutmeg  and 
allspice. 


Wedding  Cake. 

)£  teaspoonful  clovee. 
2  pounds  raisins. 
2  pounds  currants. 
1  pound  citron. 
1  pound  almonds. 
1  wineglass  brandy. 
1  lemon. 
}4  teaspoon  salt. 


Line  the  pans  with  three  thicknesses  of  paper;  buttei 
the  top  layer.      Seed  and  chop  the  raisins  ;  wash  and  dry 


384  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  currants  (see  page  435)  ;  cut  the  citron  in  uniform 
slices,  about  one  eighth  of  an  inch  thick ;  blanch  the 
almonds  and  chop  fine.  Mix  all  the  fruit  but  the  citron 
with  enough  of  the  flour  to  coat  it  thoroughly.  Mix 
the  spices  with  the  sugar.  Cream  the  butter ;  add  the 
sugar,  beaten  yolks,  beaten  whites,  lemon  rind  and  juice, 
brand}^,  flour,  and  fruit,  except  the  citron.  Put  a  layer 
of  dough  half  an  inch  deep  in  the  pan,  then  spread  evenly 
with  the  citron,  then  another  la}'er  of  dough  and  citron ; 
repeat  till  the  materials  are  all  used.  Have  dough  for  the 
top  Ia37er.  As  this  cake  does  not  rise  much  in  baking,  the 
pans  may  be  at  least  two  thirds  full.  Bake  in  two  large, 
deep,  oblong  pans  three  hours,  in  a  moderate  oven. 

Frosting. 

Plain  Frosting.  —  White  of  one  egg,  one  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  one  scant  cup  of  powdered  sugar.  Put 
the  egg  and  lemon  juice  in  a  bowl,  and  stir  the  sugar  in 
gradually.  Then  beat,  not  stir,  all  together  five  minutes. 

JSoiled  Icing.  —  One  cup  of  granulated  sugar,  one  third 
of  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  white  of  one  egg,  and  one  salt- 
spoonful  of  cream  of  tartar.  Boil  the  sugar  and  water 
without  stirring,  until  the  s}Tup  taken  up  on  a  skewer  will 
"thread"  or  "rope."  When  it  is  nearly  at  that  point, 
beat  the  egg  stiff,  add  the  cream  of  tartar,  and  pour  the 
boiling  syrup  over  the  egg  in  a  fine  stream,  beating  well. 
When  it  thickens  and  is  perfectly  smooth,  pour  it  over  the 
cake.  It  hardens  quickly,  and  should  be  put  on  the  cake 
before  it  stiffens  enough  to  drop. 

Golden  Frosting.  —  Beat  the  yolks  of  eggs  and  stir  in 
powdered  sugar  till  stiff  enough  to  spread,  not  to  run. 
Flavor  with  vanilla  or  wine. 

Ornamental  Frosting.  —  Whites  of  three  eggs,  three 
cups  of  confectioners  sugar,  sifted,  and  three  teaspoon* 
fuls  of  lemon  juice.  Put  the  eggs  in  a  large  bowl ; 
sprinkle  with  three  teaspoonfuls  of  the  sugar.  Beat  with 
a  perforated  wooden  spoon,  adding  three  teaspoonfuls  of 


Frosting.  385 


sugar  every  five  minutes.  When  it  begins  to  thicken  add 
the  lemon  juice  and  beat  as  before.  It  should  thicken  by 
the  beating  of  the  egg,  and  not  by  the  addition  of  too  much 
sugar.  Do  not  use  all  the  measure  of  sugar  unless  needed. 
Beat  with  a  long  flop,  over  and  over,  and  never  stir.  When 
stiff  enough  to  leave  a  "  clean  cut,"  or  not  to  run  together 
when  cut  with  a  knife,  spread  a  thin  layer  of  frosting  on 
the  cake,  and  when  this  is  hard  put  on  another  layer  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  When  this  is  firm,  mark  it  for 
cutting.  To  the  remainder  of  the  frosting  add  sugar  more 
rapidl}',  until  it  begins  to  harden  on  the  spoon  and  bowl. 
Put  a  confectioner's  tube  into  the  end  of  a  pastry  bag,  fill 
the  bag  with  frosting,  twist  the  end  tightly,  and  press  the 
frosting  through  the  tube  on  the  cake  in  any  design  you 
wish. 

Pink  Frosting.  —  Color  a  portion  of  the  Ornamental 
Frosting  with  cochineal,  adding  it  slowly  till  of  the  desired 
«?hade. 

Chocolate  Frosting.  —  Melt  a  square  of  chocolate  in  a 
saucepan,  and  add  to  the  Ornamental  Frosting,  using 
enough  to  color  light  or  dark  as  3^011  prefer. 

Orange  Frosting.  —  Grate  the  thin  rind  of  an  orange, 
and  soak  it  half  an  hour  in  three  or  four  teaspoonfuls  of 
the  orange  juice.  Then  squeeze  the  juice  through  a  fine 
cloth,  and  use  the  same  as  lemon  juice  in  Ornamental 
Frosting. 

Cookies. 


Plain  Cookies. 
%  cup  butter. 
1  cup  sugar. 
%  cup  milk. 
1  egg. 

3  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Flour  to  roll  out  thin. 


Richer  Cookie*,   v 
}^  cup  butter. 
1  cup  sugar. 

1  tablespoonful  milk. 

2  eggs. 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
Flour  to  roll  out. 


Cream  the  butter ;  add  the  sugar,  milk,  egg,  beaten 
lightly,  and  the  baking-powder  mixed  with  two  cups  of 
flour,  then  enough  more  flour  to  roll  out.  Roll  a  little  at 
R  time.  Cut  out.  Bake  about  ten  minutes, 

25 


386  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Cocoanut  Cookies.  —  Add  one  cup  of  grated  cocoanut, 
or  half  a  cup  of  cocoanut  cakes,  crumbled,  to  either  of 
these  receipts  before  adding  the  flour. 

Jumbles.  —  Roll  either  of  these  mixtures  thicker,  and 
cut  with  a  doughnut  cutter ;  sprinkle  sugar  over,  and  bake 
a  delicate  brown. 

Hermits.  — Add  half  a  cup  of  stoned  and  chopped  rai- 
sins to  the  receipt  for  Richer  Cookies,  and  roll  about  & 
quarter  of  an  inch  thick.  Cut  into  rounds. 

New  Year's  Cookies.  —  Rub  three  fourths  of  a  cup  of 
butter  into  six  cups  of  flour.  Pour  half  a  cup  of  boiling 
water  over  one  cup  and  a  half  of  sugar,  add  a  scant  half- 
teaspoonful  of  soda,  and  when  the  sugar  is  melted  stir  all 
into  the  flour.  Roll  out  thin. 


One-Two-Three-Four  Cookies.     (Mrs.  Whitney.) 


1  cup  butter. 

2  cups  sugar. 

3  cups  flour. 

4  eggs. 

>£  teaspoonful  soda  and 


1  teaspoonful  cream  of  tartar,  or 

2  level  teasp.  baking-powder. 
%  teaspoonful  salt. 

1  teaspoonful  spice,  or 

2  tablesp.  carraway  seed,  or 


2  teaspoonfuls  yellow  ginger. 

Cream  the  butter,  and  add  half  the  sugar.  Beat  the 
yolks,  add  the  remaining  half  of  the  sugar,  and  beat  them 

with  the  butter,  then  add 
the  beaten  whites.  Mix 
the  soda,  cream  of  tartar, 
spice,  and  salt  with  the 
flour,  and  stir  into  the 
butter  mixture.  Take  a 
teaspoonful  ofthe  dough, 

make  it  into  a  ball  with  floured  hands,  place  the  balls  in 
the  pan  some  distance  apart,  then  press  or  flatten  into  a 
round  cake,  and  bake  about  ten  minutes. 

Thin  /Sugar  Gingerbread.  —  Add  to  the  preceding  re- 
ceipt two  teaspoonfuls  of  yellow  ginger,  instead  of  spice, 
and  spread  the  mixture  thin  on  a  tin  sheet.  Mark  in 
squares  or  oblongs,  and  bake. 


Gingerbread.  387 


Superior  Gingerbread.     (Mrs.  Towne.} 


1*4  pound  butter. 
ljx£  pound  sugar. 
9  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten 

separately.        . 
1  wineglass  wine. 


1  wineglass  brandy. 

2  tablespoonfuls  ginger  and 

1  nutmeg,  grated,  mixed  with 

2  pounds  flour. 


Mix  as  for  cake  in  the  order  given,  and  spread  very  thin 
with  a  knife  on  tin  sheets.  Bake,  and  cut  in  squares  while 
warm.  This  will  keep  six  months. 

Hard  Gingerbread.     (Mrs.  Dewey.) 


%  pound  butter. 
1/4  P°un(l  sugar. 
6  eggs. 


1  teaspoonf  ul  soda,  dissolved  in 
3  tablespoonfuls  milk. 

1  tablespoonful  ginger. 

2  pounds  flour. 


Cre,am  the  butter ;  add  the  sugar  and  beaten  eggs,  and 
beat  well.  Sift  in  the  ginger,  strain  the  soda,  and  add  the 
flour.  Roll  half  an  inch  thick,  or  thin  as  a  wafer. 

Hard  Gingerbread.     (Miss  A.  M.  Towne.) 


2  cups  N.  O.  molasses. 

1  cup  butter. 

1  tablespoonful  ginger. 


1  teaspoonful soda. 

St.  Louis  flour  to  mix  very  stiff. 


Heat  (not  boil)  the  molasses  and  butter ;  when  the  but- 
ter is  melted,  add  the  ginger,  sifted,  the  soda  dissolved  in 
a  little  boiling  water,  and  the  flour.  Roll  very  thin,  and 
bake  in  a  quick  oven. 


Soft  Gingerbread. 


1  cup  molasses. 
1  teaspoonful  soda. 
1  tablespoonful  ginger. 
^  teaspoonful  salt. 


%to%  cup  butter  or  drippings, 

softened. 
1  cup  milk. 
3  cups  pastry  flour. 


Bake  in  shallow  pans  or  gem  pans  in  a  moderate  oven 
about  thirty  minutes. 


388 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Sugar  Gingerbread. 

%  cup  butter.  2  teaspoonfuls  ginger. 

%  cup  cream.  1  teaspoonf  ul  soda,  scant, 

\%  cup  sugar. 

Mix  stiff  with  flour.     Roll  thick  or  thin. 


1  cup  molasses. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  soda. 

1  tablespoonful  ginger. 

1  tablespoonful  butter,  melted. 


Hot  Water  Gingerbread. 

^  teaspoonful  salt. 
%  cup  boiling  water. 
2  cups  flour. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  beat  well.     Bake  in  a  deep 
cake  pan. 

Sour  Milk  Gingerbread. 

1  tablespoonful  butter,  softened. 
1  cup  sour  milk. 

2)4  cups  pastry   flour,  with  an- 
other 
)£  teaspoonful  soda  mixed  with  it. 

Omit  the  butter  when   sour  cream  is  used.    Bake  in 
muffin  pans. 

Ginger  Snaps.     (Mrs.  H.  B.  May.) 

1  cup  molasses. 

%  cup  sugar. 

1  tablespoonful  ginger. 


%  cup  molasses. 
%  teaspoonful  soda. 
3^  teaspoonful  salt. 
1  tablespoonful  ginger. 
%  cup  sugar. 


1  teaspoonful  soda. 
%  cup  softened  butter. 
Flour  to  roll  out  very  thin. 


Heat   the  molasses,  pour  it  over  the  sugar;   add  the 
ginger,  soda,  butter,  and  flour.     Cut,  and  bake  quickly. 

Ginger  Drops  (without  Butter). 


2  eggs,  well  beaten. 

1  cup  brown  sugar. 

2  teaspoonfuls  ginger. 


1  cup  N.  O.  molasses,  boiled. 
1  teaspoonfut  soda. 
Flour  to  roll  out. 


Mix  in  the  order  given.  Roll  thin,  cut  with  a  very 
small  cutter,  and  bake  in  a  quick  oven.  If  you  like,  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  vinegar  before  adding  the  flour,  and 
use  a  heaping  teaspoonful  of  soda. 


Cream  Cakes.  389 


Soft  Molasses  Cookies.    (A.  W.) 


1  cup  molasses. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  ginger. 

1  teaspoonf  ul  soda. 


2  tablesp.  warm  water  or  milk. 
%  cup  butter,  softened 
Flour  to  mix  soft. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  dissolving  the  soda  in  the  milk. 
Roll  out  one  third  of  an  inch  thick.     Cut  in  small  rounds. 


Cream  Cakes. 


1  cup  hot  water. 
Yz  teaspoonful  salt. 
i<£  cup  butter. 


1^2  cup  pastry  flour. 
5  eggs,  yolks  and  whites  beaten 
separately. 


Boil  the  water,  salt,  and  butter.  When  boiling,  add  the 
dry  flour,  stir  well  for  five  minutes,  and  when  cool  add  the 
eggs.  This  is  such  a  stiff  mixture,  many  find  it  easier 
to  mix  with  the  hand,  and  some  prefer  to  add  the  eggs 
whole,  one  at  a  time.  When  well  mixed,  drop,  in  table- 
spoonfuls,  on  a  buttered  baking-pan,  some  distance  apart. 
Bake  twenty  to  thirty  minutes,  or  till  brown  and  well 
puffed.  Split  when  cool,  and  fill  with  cream. 

Eclairs.  —  Bake  the  Cream  Cake  mixture  in  pieces 
four  inches  long  and  one  and  a  half  wide.  When  cool, 
split  and  fill  with  cream.  Ice  with  chocolate  or  vanilla 
frosting. 

Cream  for  Cream  Cakes  and  Eclairs. 


1  pint  milk,  boiled. 

2  tablespoonfuls  cornstarch. 

3  eggs,  well  beaten. 


cup  sugar. 

1  saltspoonful  salt,  or 
1  teaspoonful  butter. 


Wet  the  cornstarch  in  cold  milk,  and  cook  in  the  boiling 
milk  ten  minutes.  Beat  the  eggs  ;  add  the  sugar  and  the 
thickened  milk.  Cook  in  the  double  boiler  five  minutes. 
Add  the  salt  or  butter,  and  when  cool,  flavor  with  lemon, 
vanilla,  or  almond. 

Kisses,  or  Cream  Meringues. 

Beat  the  whites  of  three  eggs  stiff  and  flaky ;  add  three 
quarters  of  a  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  sifting  and  cutting 


3QO  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

it  in  lightly.  Drop  by  spoonfuls  on  paper  placed  on 
boards.  Put  in  the  hot  closet  or  oven,  with  the  door 
open  for  half  an  hour.  Then  brown  slightly.  Put  two 
together ;  or  put  them  on  the  paper  in  oblong  shape,  dry 
one  hour,  brown,  remove  the  soft  part,  and  fill  with  whipped 
cream. 

To  make  these  successfully,  the  steady,  moderate  heat 
of  a  confectioner's  brick  oven  is  essential.  It  is  a  waste  ot 
time  and  material  to  attempt  them  in  an  ordinary  stove 
oven. 

Macaroons. 

Half  a  pound  of  almonds,  blanched,  dried,  and  pounded 
to  a  paste,  with  one  teaspoonfid  of  rose  water.  Beat  to- 
gether the  whites  of  three  eggs,  and  half  a  cup  of  powdered 
sugar,  adding  the  sugar  by  the  teaspoonful.  Add  half  a 
teaspoonful  of  almond  essence,  then  add  the  pounded 
almonds  and,  if  too  soft  to  be  shaped,  add  one  tablespoon- 
ful  of  flour.  Roll  with  wet  hands  into  balls  the  size  of 
walnuts,  flatten  them  slightly,  and  place  some  distance 
apart  on  buttered  paper.  Bake  slowty. 

Almond  paste,  ready  for  use,  may  be  obtained  at  a  con- 
fectioner's. Break  it  up  with  a  fork,  add  the  beaten  whites 
and  sugar,  using  four  or  five  eggs  for  half  a  pound  of 
paste.  Drop  by  teaspoonfuls  on  paper,  and  bake  as 
above. 

Cocoanut  Cakes.     (Mrs.  Richard  Ward.) 

The  grated  meat  of  two  cocoanuts,  their  weight  in  loaf 
sugar,  one  cup  of  flour,  and  whites  of  two  eggs.  Shape 
into  balls,  and  bake  twenty  minutes. 

Chocolate  Caramels. 

One  cup  of  molasses,  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  one  quarter 
of  a  pound  of  chocolate,  cut  fine,  half  a  cup  of  milk,  and 
one  heaping  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Boil  all  together, 
stirring  all  the  time.  When  it  hardens  in  cold  water,  pour 
it  into  shallow  pans,  and  as  if  cools  cut  in  small  squares. 


Fresh  Fruit.  391 


FRUIT. 

IT  would  be  a  great  saving  of  time  and  work,  give  a 
pleasing  variety  to  bills  of  fare,  and  be  above  all  a  great 
promoter  of  health,  if  people  would  use  ripe  fruit  abun- 
dantly in  its  season  at  their  tables  (not  between  meals) . 
With  the  markets  bountifully  supplied  with  many  varieties 
of  fruit,  it  is  to  be  regretted  that  it  cannot  be  found  at 
every  table  at  least  once  a  day.  Much  of  the  money  spent 
for  some  kinds  of  meat  would  be  better  expended  for  fruit. 
A  simple  course  of  fruit  is  all  that  is  needed  after  a  dinner, 
and  is  much  more  wholesome  than  pies.  But  it  is  so  hard 
for  some  people  to  break  away  from  old  customs  that  it 
will  be  long  before  housekeepers  generally  will  be  content 
to  serve  the  queen  of  all  fruits,  the  apple,  in  its  natural 
state  instead  of  making  it  into  the  "  persistent  pie,"  over 
the  preparation  of  which  many  women  toil,  for  naught  save 
the  fear  that  they  may  be  considered  shiftless  if  they 
have  n't  a  pie  in  the  house. 

Ripe  fruit  is  especially  appropriate  at  the  breakfast- 
table,  and  may  be  taken  before  or  after  the  principal 
dishes,  according  to  individual  needs  and  taste.  Some  peo- 
ple require  the  acid  of  oranges  or  grapes  before  they  can 
eat  anything  substantial ;  others  might  be  made  ill  by  their 
use  at  that  time,  but  be  benefited  b}r  them  afterwards. 

All  fruit  should  be  served  as  fresh  and  cold  as  possible. 
A  dish  of  fruit  which  has  been  kept  from  day  to  day  in  a 
warm  room  may  answer  for  an  ornament,  but  it  is  not 
tempting  to  the  palate.  Only  sound,  fresh  fruit  should 
appear  at  the  table. 

Apples  for  table  use  should  have  a  pleasant  spicy  flavor, 
not  too  acid,  and  should  be  wiped  clean,  or  polished  if  yon 
prefer  the  street-vender's  style. 


392  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Oranges  may  be  served  whole  or  cut.  Many  slice  them 
across  the  sections  ;  but  the  presence  of  the  seeds  and  tough 
inner  skin  is  objectionable.  A  better  way  is  to  remove  all 
the  rind  and  white  skin,  divide  into  sections,  then  with  the 
point  of  a  silver  fruit-knife  cut  off  the  inner  skin  in  the 
middle,  slip  out  the  seeds,  and  cut  each  section  into  three 
pieces.  Never  serve  with  the  seeds  left  in,  nor  sweeten 
until  just  before  serving.  A  neat  way  to  peel  an  orange 
is  to  cut  the  rind  from  the  ends  and  leave  a  strip  round 
the  middle,  then  open,  leaving  the  sections  on  the  strip 
of  peel.  Or  cut  the  oranges  in  halves  crosswise  without 
peeling,  sprinkle  with  sugar,  and  eat  with  a  spoon. 

Grapes,  Malagas  especially,  should  be  carefully  rinsed  in 
cold  water,  then  drained.  Fruit  scissors  should  be  used  to 
divide  the  clusters. 

Bananas  may  be  served  whole,  or  sliced  and  slightly 
sweetened  or  salted. 

Peaches  should  have  the  wool  wiped  off,  or  if  pared  and 
quartered  should  be  sprinkled  with  fine  granulated  sugar, 
and  served  at  once. 

Strawberries,  if  gritty,  should  be  rinsed  and  drained, 
then  hulled,  and  not  sweetened  till  served.  Large  selected 
berries  may  be  served  with  the  stems  on.  Pass  sugar  with 
them,  that  those  who  prefer  may  roll  them  in  it. 

Currants  should  be  sweetened,  and  large  whole  clusters 
maybe  served  on  the  stem.  Currants  and  raspberries  are 
delicious  when  served  together. 

Watermelons  should  be  served  very  cold.  Cut  off  a 
slice  at  each  end,  that  each  half  may  stand  upright.  Serve 
the  core  only,  taking  it  out  with  a  tablespoon  in  cone- 
shaped  pieces.  Other  melons  should  have  the  seeds  re- 
moved before  serving,  be  cut  in  halves,  a  lump  of  ice  in 
each,  and  served  with  sugar  or  salt. 

Pineapples.  —  Pare,  remove  the  eyes,  and  cut  in  thin 
slices  ;  then  remove  the  fibrous  centre,  and  serve  in  slices, 
or  cut  the  tender  parts  into  small  pieces  and  sweeten  to 
taste.  Or  pare  and  pull  off  the  tender  part  with  a  fork,  as 
directed  for  preserved  pineapple. 


Stewed  and  Baked  Fruits.  393 


Iced  Fruits.  —  Dip  selected  fruit  into  the  white  of  egg 
slightly  beaten,  then  roll  in  fine  granulated  sugar.  Dry, 
and  serve  very  cold. 

Whole  fruit  should  be  served  in  a  high  dish,  garnished 
with  green  leaves,  flowers,  or  vines,  and,  with  a  tasteful 
combination  of  colors,  arranged  in  a  convenient  way  for 
serving. 

Nuts  should  be  cracked,  and  served  with  salt. 

Almonds  and  other  nuts  having  a  tough  inner  skin 
should  be  blanched. 

Raisins.  —  Use  only  choice  varieties,  and  serve  with 
nuts. 


Tropical  Snow. 


8  sweet  oranges. 
1  cocoanut,  grated. 
6  red  bananas. 


1  glass  sherry  wine,  or 
^  cup  lemon  juice. 
Powdered  sugar  to  taste. 


Peel  the  oranges,  divide  into  sections,  and  remove  the 
seeds  and  tough  membrane.  Put  a  layer  of  orange  in  the 
bottom  of  a  glass  dish,  pour  over  it  a  little  wine  or  lemon 
juice,  and  strew  with  powdered  sugar ;  add  cocoanut,  and 
then  the  banana  cut  in  thin  slices ;  repeat  the  process, 
using  orange,  cocoanut,  banana,  etc.,  as  before.  The  top 
layer  is  to  be  heaped  high  in  the  centre,  and  sprinkled 
thickly  with  cocoanut  and  powdered  sugar,  and  garnished 
around  the  base  with  slices  of  banana. 

Other  combinations  of  fruit  may  be  arranged  to  suit  the 
taste ;  and  cocoanut  cakes  or  macaroons,  crumbled,  or  a 
meringue  of  white  of  egg  and  sugar,  may  take  the  place 
of  the  grated  cocoanut. 

Stewed  and  Baked  Fruits. 

The  simplest  forms  of  cooking  fruit  are  stewing  and 
baking.  Only  a  small  amount  of  sugar  is  needed,  and  it 
is  not  well  to  prepare  a  large  quantity  at  a  time,  as  stewed 
fruits  do  not  keep  long.  In  cooking  fruit  always  use  porce- 
lain or  granite  kettles,  earthen  dishes,  wooden  spoons,  and 


394  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

silver  knives,  and  pare  just  before  cooking,  that  the  deli- 
cate flavor  of  the  fruit  may  be  preserved,  and  its  attractive 
appearance  not  impaired  by  discoloration. 

/Stewed  Apple  /Sauce.  —  Pare,  core,  and  quarter  six  or 
eight  tart  apples.  Make  a  syrup  with  one  cup  of  sugar, 
two  thirds  of  a  cup  of  water,  and  a  little  lemon  peel. 
When  boiling,  add  the  apples,  and  cook  carefully  two  or 
three  minutes,  till  they  are  just  tender,  but  not  broken. 
Remove  them  carefully,  boil  the  syrup  down  a  little,  and 
strain  it  over  the  apples.  Cook  them  in  granite  or  porcelain 
pans,  and  use  a  wooden  spoon. 

Compote  of  Apples. — Make  a  syrup  with  one  cup  of 
sugar,  one  cup  of  water,  and  a  square-inch  of  stick  cin- 
namon. Boil  slowly  for  ten  minutes,  skimming  well. 
Core  and  pare  eight  or  ten  tart  apples;  cook  till  .nearly 
done  in  the  syrup.  Drain,  and  cook  them  a  few  minutes 
in  the  oven.  Boil  the  syrup  till  almost  like  a  jelly.  Ar- 
range the  apples  on  a  dish  for  serving.  Fill  the  core 
cavities  with  jelly  or  marmalade.  Pour  the  syrup  over 
them.  Put  whipped  cream  around  the  base,  and  garnish 
the  cream  with  jelly. 

Baked  Apples.  —  Core  and  pare  sour  apples.  Put  them 
in  a  shallow  earthen  dish,  fill  the  cavities  with  sugar, 
mixed  with  grated  lemon  rind  /  add  water  to  cover  the 
bottom  of  the  dish.  Bake  in  a  very  quick  oven  till  soft, 
basting  often  with  the  syrup. 

Quinces  may  be  baked  in  the  same  way,  adding  a  little 
more  water,  as  they  require  a  longer  time  for  baking. 
When  eaten  hot  with  butter  and  sugar,  they  are  delicious. 

No.  2.  —  Fill  a  deep  pudding-dish  with  apples,  pared, 
cored,  and  quartered.  For  two  quarts  add  one  cup  of 
sugar  and  one  cup  of  water.  Bake,  closely  covered,  in  a 
very  moderate  oven  several  hours,  or  till  dark  red. 

Baked  Pears. — Hard  pears,  or  "windfalls,"  are  deli- 
cious pared  and  baked  as  in  the  preceding  receipt.  When 
done,  and  still  hot,  they  may  be  sealed  in  Mason's  jars, 
and  will  keep  indefinitely.  By  preparing  one  large  dishful 
every  day  during  the  pear  season,  a  supply  of  wholesome 


Jellies.  395 


sauce  may  be  easily  obtained  from  fruit  that  is  often 
left  to  waste  on  the  ground. 

Steamed  Rhubarb.  —  Wash  and  cut  the  rhubarb  into 
inch  pieces  without  peeling.  Put  it  into  a  granite  double 
boiler,  add  one  cup  of  sugar  for  a  pint  of  fruit,  and  cook 
till  the  rhubarb  is  soft.  Do  not  stir  it.  When  the  rhu- 
barb is  very  sour,  steam  it  without  sugar  until  the  juice 
flows,  then  drain  it,  add  the  sugar,  and  steam  again  till 
the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Or  pour  boiling  water  over  it 
and  let  it  stand  five  minutes,  then  drain  and  steam. 

Stewed  Prunes.  — Wash  carefully,  and  if  hard  and  dry 
soak  an  hour  before  cooking.  Put  them  into  a  porcelain 
kettle,  with  boiling  water  to  cover  them.  Boil,  closely 
covered,  from  five  to  ten  minutes,  or  until  swollen  and 
tender.  Then  add  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar  for  one  pint 
of  prunes,  and  boil  a  few  moments  longer,  but  not  enough 
to  break  them.  Use  onty  the  best  selected  prunes.  If 
they  lack  flavor,  add  a  little  lemon  juice. 

Cranberries.  — Put  three  pints  of  washed  cranberries  in 
a  granite  stewpan.  On  top  of  them  put  three  cups  of  gran- 
ulated sugar  and  three  gills  of  water.  After  they  begin 
to  boil  cook  them  ten  minutes,  closely  covered,  and  do  not 
stir  them.  Remove  the  scum.  The}'  will  jelly  when  cool, 
and  the  skins  will  be  soft  and  tender. 

No.  2.  ( Miss  Ward.)  —  Equal  measure  of  cranberries 
and  sugar.  Wash,  drain,  put  in  a  porcelain  kettle  with 
cold  water  to  just  show  among  the  berries  when  they  are 
pressed  down.  When  the}'  boil  add  a  quarter  of  the  sugar. 
Sprinkle  it  over  the  berries  without  stirring.  Let  it  boil 
again  a  minute,  add  another  quarter,  etc.,  till  all  the  sugar 
is  in.  Boil  up  once  more,  and  turn  out.  Boil  slowly,  and 
do  not  stir.  This  method  is  preferred  by  those  who  like  a 
very  rich  sweet  sauce. 

Jellies. 

Jellies  are  made  of  equal  parts  of  clear  fruit  juice  and 
sugar.  Apples,  currants,  quinces,  grapes,  and  barberries 
are  the  fruits  usuall}'  used.  Low  blackberries  and  swamp 


396  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

huckleberries  make  delicious  jelly.  Crab  apples  and  quinces 
will  form  jelly  easily  ;  but  grapes  are  unreliable,  and  cur- 
rants, if  not  gathered  at  the  proper  time,  will  sometimes 
fail.  Cherries  and  some  other  fruits  require  the  addition 
of  gelatine.  Berries,  currants,  and  grapes  require  no 
water.  Simply  mash  them  in  their  own  juice.  Apples, 
peaches,  and  quinces  should  be  stewed  in  as  little  water  as 
possible,  then  mashed,  and  the  juice  strained.  The  juices 
of  fruits  contain  a  gelatinous  substance  called  pectose,  or 
pectic  acid,  which  is  soluble  in  the  fruit  juice,  but  has  the 
property  of  coagulation  when  mixed  with  sugar,  exposed 
to  a  slight  heat,  and  then  cooled.  Sometimes  the  heat  of 
the  sun  is  sufficient,  but  usually  a  short  but  more  intense 
heat  is  neeessarj7.  When  the  sugar  has  a  bluish  tinge,  or 
when  there  is  not  enough  sugar  to  absorb  the  water  in  the 
juice,  or  when  the  juice  is  unusualty  water}7,  as  when  the 
fruit  is  over-ripe,  and  the  fruit  is  boiled  a  long  time  to  evap- 
orate this  water,  the  mixture  loses  its  gelatinous  properties 
and  becomes  gummy,  or,  as  disconsolate  housekeepers  say, 
"will  not  jelly." 

Currant  Jelly.  —  Currants  should  not  be  over-ripe,  nor 
gathered  after  a  rain,  as  then  they  are  too  watery.  In 
New  England  currants  are  in  the  best  condition  about 
the  10th  of  July.  Equal  parts  of  red  and  white  currants, 
or  currants  and  raspberries,  make  a  delicately  colored 
and  flavored  jelly.  Pick  over  and  remove  the  leaves  and 
poor  fruit,  and  if  gritty  wash  and  drain  them,  but  do  not 
stem  them.  Mash  them  in  a  porcelain  kettle  with  a 
wooden  pestle,  without  heating,  as  that  makes  the  jelly 
darker.  Let  them  drain  in  a  flannel  bag  over  night.  Do 
not  squeeze  them,  or  the  jelly  will  be  cloudy.  In  the 
morning  measure  a  bowl  of  sugar  for  each  bowl  of  juice, 
and  heat  the  sugar  carefully  in  an  earthen  dish  in  the 
oven.  Stir  it  often  to  prevent  burning.  Boil  the  juice 
twenty  minutes,  and  skim  thoroughly.  Add  the  hot 
sugar,  and  boil  from  three  to  five  minutes,  or  till  it 
thickens  on  a  spoon  when  exposed  to  the  air.  Turn  at 
once  into  glasses,  and  let  them  remain  in  the  sun  several 


Marmalade.  397 


days,  then  cover  with  paper  dipped  in  brandy,  and  paste 
paper  over  the  top  of  the  glass. 

One  who  is  authority  on  this  subject  recommends  cov- 
ering with  melted  paraffine,  or  putting  a  lump  of  paraffine 
on  the  jelly  while  still  hot ;  then  no  paper  is  needed.  If 
one  can  be  sure  of  several  sunny  days,  and  a  perfectly 
dry  place  in  which  to  keep  jellies,  they  may  be  made 
without*  boiling.  Mix  the  sugar  with  an  equal  weight  of 
currant  juice,  and  stir  till  dissolved.  Fill  the  glasses  and 
keep  in  the  sun  till  dry. 

After  draining  the  juice  the  currants  may  be  squeezed, 
and  a  second  quality  of  jelly  made.  It  may  not  be  clear, 
but  answers  for  some  purposes. 

Crab-,Apple,  Wild-Apple,  or  Porter- Apple  Jetty.  (Miss 
Harriott  T.  Ward.)  —  Wash  the  fruit ;  cut  into  pieces, 
but  do  not  pare,  nor  remove  the  seeds  ;  barely  cover  with 
cold  water.  Boil  and  mash  them  until  soft.  Then  drain 
on  a  sieve.  Use  the  juice  only,  and  do  not  squeeze  the 
fruit.  Boil  the  juice  with  an  equal  quantity  of  sugar, 
until  it  jellies.  Peach  jelly  is  made  in  the  same  manner. 

Quince  Jelly. — Wipe  the  fruit  carefully,  and  remove 
all  the  stems,  and  parts  not  fair  and  sound.  Use  the 
best  parts  of  the  fruit  for  canning  or  preserving,  and  the 
skin,  cores,  and  hard  parts  for  jelly.  The  seeds  contain  a 
large  portion  of  gelatinous  substance.  Boil  all  together, 
in  enough  water  to  cover,  till  the  pulp  is  soft.  Mash,  and 
drain.  Use  the  juice  only,  and  when  boiling  add  an  equal 
weight  of  hot  sugar,  and  boil  till  it  jellies  in  the  spoon. 

Grape  Jetty.  —  Select  the  grapes  when  not  fully  ripe. 
Wash  and  drain,  then  put  them  in  a  preserving-kettle, 
mash  well,  and  heat  till  all  the  skins  are  broken  and  the 
juice  flows  freely.  Strain,  and  use  the  juice  only  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar,  as  for  Currant  Jelly. 

Marmalade. 

This  is  made  of  the  pulp  of  fruits  with  the  juice,  unless 
that  has  been  used  for  jelly.  When  fruit  is  not  abundant, 


398  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

it  is  well  to  make  marmalade  at  the  same  time  with  jellies, 
especially  from  peaches,  quinces,  and  grapes.  After  drain- 
ing, rub  the  fruit  pulp  through  a  sieve,  add  an  equal  weight 
of  sugar,  and  boil  very  slowly  half  or  three  quarters  of  an 
hour.  Stir  often  to  prevent  burning. 

Preserves. 

These  are  usually  prepared  with  equal  weights  of  sugar 
and  fruit.  Although  too  rich  for  daily  use,  there  are 
many  people  who  prefer  them  to  the  canned  fruit,  and 
there  are  some  fruits  which  are  better  with  the  full  weight 
of  sugar.  The  fruit  should  be  ripe,  fresh,  and  perfectly 
sound.  The  following  rules  illustrate  the  best  methods 
for  the  different  varieties  of  fruit. 

Peaches.  —  Pare  the  peaches ;  or  remove  the  skins  by 
plunging  the  peaches  into  boiling  lye  (two  gallons  of  water 
and  one  pijit  of  wood  ashes) .  When  the  skins  will  slip 
easily,  take  the  peaches  out  with  a  skimmer  and  plunge 
them  into  cold  water ;  rinse  in  several  waters,  and  there 
will  be  no  taste  of  the  lye.  Weigh,  and  add  three  fourths 
of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  each  pound  of  fruit.  Halve  them, 
and  use  some  of  the  pits,  or  leave  them  whole  as  you 
please.  The  stones  improve  the  flavor.  Make  a  syrup 
by  adding  as  little  water  as  possible  to  the  sugar,  — 
about  one  cupful  to  each  pound  of  sugar.  When  it 
boils,  skim  till  clear,  then  add  the  peaches,  and  cook  until 
transparent. 

Brandy  Peaches.  —  Prepare  the  peaches  as  above,  and 
use  half  a  cup  of  the  best  brandy  to  every  pound  of  fruit. 
Add  the  brandy  just  as  the  syrup  is  taken  from  the  fire. 
Some  people  prefer  the  yellow  peaches,  but  white-fleshed 
freestone  peaches  have  a  delicious  flavor. 

Damsons  and  Greengages  should  be  pricked  in  many 
places  with  a  large  needle,  to  prevent  the  skins  from 
bursting.  Or  scald  them  and  remove  the  skins,  as  some- 
times they  harden  in  cooking.  Prepare  the  syrup  as  for 
peaches.  Cook  only  a  few  at  a  time,  that  they  may  not 
be  broken.  On  three  successive  mornings  pour  off  the 


Preserves.  399 


syrup,  and  boil  it  gently  for  ten  minutes.  This  will 
thoroughly  cook  the  fruit,  without  destroying  the  shape. 

Preserved  Quinces.  —  Use  the  orange  quinces.  Wipe, 
pare,  quarter,  and  remove  all  the  core  and  the  hard  part 
under  the  core.  Take  an  equal  weight  of  sugar.  Cover 
the  quinces  with  cold  water.  Let  them  come  slowly  to  a 
boil.  Skim,  and  when  nearly  soft  put  one  quarter  of  the 
sugar  on  the  top,  but  do  not  stir.  When  this  boils,  add 
another  part  of  the  sugar,  and  continue  until  all  the  sugar 
is  in  the  kettle.  Let  them  boil  slowly  until  the  color  you 
like,  either  light  or  dark. 

Another  way  is  to  cook  the  quinces  in  water  till  ten- 
der, drain,  and  put  them  in  a  stone  jar  in  layers,  with  an 
equal  weight  of  sugar.  Cover  closely.  In  a  cold  dry 
place  they  will  keep  perfectly.  They  are  lighter-colored 
and  more  tender  than  when  cooked  in  the  syrup.  Watch 
them  during  the  first  month,  and  if  there  be  any  signs  of 
fermentation,  set  the  jar  in  a  kettle  of  hot  water  till  the 
fruit  is  scalded.  Reserve  the  broken  or  unshapely  pieces 
of  quince,  cut  them  in  small  cubes,  and  use  with  Strawberry 
Tomatoes.  Allow  three  quarters  of  a  pound  of  sugar  to  a 
pound  of  fruit.  Make  the  s}n:up,  and  cook  the  fruit  in  it 
till  tender.  Skim  it  out,  and  boil  the  syrup  down  for  ten 
minutes.  Fill  the  jars,  and  seal  at  once.  Equal  parts  of 
sweet  apple,  cooked  with  the  quince  but  with  no  extra  sugar, 
can  scarcely  be  distinguished  from  the  quince. 

Preserved  Pineapple.  —  Remove  the  skin  and  all  the 
eyes,  take  the  pineapple  in  }Tour  left  hand,  and  with  a  sil- 
ver fork  begin  at  the  stem  end  of  the  fruit  and  fork  out 
small  bits.  This  will  leave  the  core,  which  is  juiceless 
and  tasteless,  in  your  hand.  Weigh  the  pineapple  after  it 
is  thus  prepared,  and  sprinkle  over  it  three  quarters  of  a 
pound  of  sugar  to  one  pound  of  pineapple.  When  a 
syrup  is  formed,  cook  the  apple  slowly  in  it  until  trans- 
parent, then  remove  the  fruit  and  boil  the  syrup  a  little 
longer.  Or  slice  the  pineapple  in  half-inch  slices,  and  cut 
out  the  core.  Cook  in  the  syrup,  being  careful  not  U> 
break  the  slices. 


4OO  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Preserved  Strawberries,  Raspberries,  Currants,  Black* 
berries,  and  Cherries.  —  Measure  a  bowl  of  fruit  and  the 
same  quantity  of  sugar.  Put  in  a  preserving-kettle,  over 
night,  a  layer  of  fruit,  and  then  one  of  sugar.  In  the 
morning  cook  slowly  without  stirring,  until  the  liquid  is 
clear  and  the  fruit  soft.  Skim  thoroughly  before  putting 
into  the  jars.  Cherries  should  be  stoned.  The  pits  may 
be  used  if  the  flavor  be  desired. 

No.  2.  —  Use  only  large  and  selected  fruit,  and  allow 
one  cup  of  sugar  to  a  pint  jar  of  fruit.  Pick  over  the 
fruit,  and  put  at  once  into  the  jars,  with  as  little  hand- 
ling as  possible,  and  sprinkle  each  layer  with  sugar.  Place 
the  jars  in  a  boiler  of  water,  and  let  the  water  boil  ten 
minutes.  Have  a  little  syrup  boiling,  and  fill  each  jar  to 
the  brim  with  the  boiling  syrup,  and  seal  at  once. 

Jams. 

Jams  are  made  with  whole  small  fruits,  or  large  fruit  cut 
fine,  and  cooked  in  an  equal  weight  of  sugar. 

Grape  Jam.  —  Wash  the  grapes,  and  squeeze  or  pinch 
the  pulp  from  the  skins.  Boil  the  pulp  until  it  separates 
from  the  seeds,  and  rub  it  through  a  sieve.  Then  add  the 
skins  to  the  pulp,  and  boil  with  an  equal  weight  of  sugar 
fifteen  minutes.  Put  into  small  jars  or  tumblers,  and  cover 
with  paper. 

Currant,  Raspberry,  or  Blackberry  Jam.  —  Pick  over 
and  mash  the  fruit ;  allow  one  pound  of  sugar  to  a  pound 
of  fruit.  Put  the  fruit  and  one  quarter  of  the  sugar  into 
a  granite  or  porcelain  kettle ;  when  boiling,  add  another 
quarter  of  the  sugar ;  boil  again,  add  more  sugar,  and 
when  all  is  used,  let  it  boil  till  it  hardens  on  the  spoon 
in  the  air. 

Apples,  pears,  peaches,  and  quinces  should  be  pared, 
cut  small,  and  treated  in  the  same  way.  Cooking  in  only 
a  little  sugar  at  a  time  prevents  the  fruit  from  becoming 
hard. 


Canning.  401 


Canning. 

Canning  differs  from  preserving  in  that  the  fruit  is  kept, 
either  with  or  without  sugar,  by  sealing  in  air-tight  jars  or 
cans,  and  is  not  cooked  long  enough  to  destroy  its  natural 
flavor.  Some  authorities  state  that  fruit  may  be  kept  by 
putting  it  in  the  jars,  filling  with  cold  water,  and  sealing 
immediately.  But  nearly  all  fruits  are  improved  by  the 
addition  of  more  or  less  sugar.  As  a  rule,  all  fruits  that 
require  sugar  when  fresh  require  it  when  canned. 

The  important  points  in  canning  are  to  have  the  fruit 
perfect  in  shape  and  quality ;  the  syrup  clear,  rightly  pro- 
portioned, and  boiling  hot ;  the  jars  hot  and  filled  to  over- 
flowing, and  sealed  quickly  and  thoroughly,  that  no  air 
may  be  left  inside.  Have  all  utensils  in  order  and  at 
hand,  that  there  may  be  no  needless  delay.  Large-mouthed 
glass  jars  with  glass  covers  or  porcelain-lined  screw  covers 
are  the  best.  Pint  jars  are  more  convenient  for  a  small 
family.  They  should  be  scalded,  and  the  covers  and  rub- 
bers clean  and  perfectly  fitted.  Keep  the  jars  in  hot  water 
until  ready  to  fill,  or  roll  each  one  in  hot  water  just  before 
filling,  or  place  them  in  a  folded  towel  wrung  out  of  hot 
water,  and  put  a  silver  spoon  or  fork  in  the  jar  while 
filling.  A  clamp  is  a  great  convenience,  as  the  jar  may 
be  held  in  the  clamp  directly  over  the  kettle  and  filled  very 
quickly.  If  without  this,  have  a  broad  shallow  pan,  half 
filled  with  hot  water,  on  the  stove  or  on  a  table  near  by, 
and  place  the  jars  in  it  while  filling  them.  A  wide-mouthed 
tunnel  aids  in  filling  the  jars.  When  the  fruit  is  to  be  boiled 
in  the  jars,  place  a  perforated  tin  or  some  flat  stones  or 
muffin  rings  in  the  boiler,  to  keep  the  jars  from  resting  on 
the  bottom.  Then  the  water  will  be  under  as  well  as 
around  the  jar,  and  there  will  be  no  danger  of  breaking. 

All  ripe  mellow  fruit  may  be  prepared  and  put  at  once 
into  the  jars.  Place  the  jars  in  a  boiler  or  kettle  of  warm 
water,  with  something  underneath  to  avoid  breaking. 
Make  the  sjTup,  using  sugar  according  to  taste,  or  in  the 
proportion  of  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one  cup  of  water  for 


4.02  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

each  jar  of  small  juicy  berries,  and  one  cup  of  sugar  and 
two  cups  of  water  for  pears  and  &m?e  fruits.  Pour  the 
syrup  boiling  hot  into  the  hot  jars,  boil  five  minutes,  and 
seal  at  once. 

Strawberries,  plums,  and  cherries  will  require  more 
sugar.  Cherries  should  be  stoned,  but  the  stones  may  be 
used  if  liked. 

Quinces,  apples,  hard  peaches,  pears,  and  fruits  which 
require  softening,  should  be  cooked  in  water  or  in  syrup 
until  tender.  Then  fill  the  jars  with  boiling  syrup,  strain- 
ing it  if  not  clear. 

Peaches  may  be  canned  whole,  or  if  halved,  a  few  of 
the  pits  removed  and  cooked  in  the  syrup  to  give  addi' 
tional  flavor. 

Pears  should  be  well  ripened  and  of  fine  flavor.  A  taste 
less,  insipid  pear  is  only  suitable  for  sweet  pickle. 

Tomatoes  should  be  peeled  and  cooked  till  well  scalded, 
then  salted  and  sealed  at  once. 

Always  fill  to  overflowing,  using  boiling  water  when 
there  is  not  enough  syrup.  Run  the  handle  of  a  silver 
tablespoon  down  the  inside  of  the  jar,  that  the  syrup  may 
complete!}7  surround  the  fruit.  Fasten  the  covers  on  se- 
curely, and  give  the  screw  an  extra  turn  every  half-hour 
until  the  fruit  is  cold.  If  the  jars  be  kept  bottom  up  and 
in  a  dark  place,  there  is  hardly  a  chance  of  failure.  The 
best  quality  of  thick  tin-foil  may  be  used  as  a  cover  for 
an}7  large-mouthed  bottle  or  jar  minus  a  cover.  Fill  the 
jar  with  the  fruit  and  syrup,  cover  with  a  large  piece  of 
tin- foil,  work  it  down  over  the  rim  until  perfectly  smooth 
and  tight.  If  air-tight,  there  will  be  a  depression  in  the 
cover  as  soon  as  the  fruit  is  cold.  Fruit  thus  covered 
should  be  kept  away  from  mice,  as  they  will  eat  the  tin- 
foil. 

Canned  fruit  should  be  opened  some  time  before  using, 
that  it  may  be  aerated  and  the  flavor  improved.  There 
has  been  a  strong  feeling  against  the  use  of  fruit  prepared 
in  tin  cans.  Chemists  have  examined  canned  fruit  as  soon 
as  opened,  and  found  it  harmless  ;  but  if  the  fruit  be  left 


Sweet  Pickles.  403 


in  the  tin  can,  the  action  of  the  air  causes  the  acid  in  the 
fruit  to  act  upon  the  metal  and  form  a  poisonous  compound. 
Care  should  be  taken  to  remove  the  fruit  from  the  can  as 
soon  as  opened. 

Sweet  Pickles. 

Eight  pounds  of  fruit,  four  pounds  of  best  brown  sugar, 
*ne  quart  of  vinegar,  and  one  cup  of  mixed  whole  spices, 
- — stick  cinnamon,  cassia  buds,  allspice,  and  cloves  /  less 
of  the  latter  than  of  the  former.  Tie  the  spices  in  a  bag, 
and  boil  with  the  vinegar  and  sugar.  Skim  well ;  then  add 
the  fruit.  Cook  ten  minutes,  or  till  scalded  and  tender 
Skim  out  the  fruit,  and  put  into  stone  jars.  Boil  the  syrup 
five  minutes  longer,  and  pour  over  the  fruit.  The  next 
day  pour  off  the  syrup  and  boil  down  again,  and  do 
this  for  three  mornings.  Keep  the  bag  of  spices  in  the 
syrup. 

Tomatoes. — Scald,  remove  the  skins,  and  cook  without 
breaking  if  possible. 

Peaches.  —  Scald  or  wipe  off  the  "  wool,"  and  leave 
them  whole.  Do  not  stick  them  with  cloves.  If  very 
ripe,  merely  pour  the  hot  syrup  over  them  on  three  suc- 
cessive mornings. 

Pears.  —  Select  sound  fruit,  not  too  ripe.  Pare,  and 
leave  them  whole  with  the  stems  on.  Cook  till  tender. 

Ripe  Cucumber  or  Watermelon  Hind.  —  Cut  the  pared 
rind  into  thick  slices.  Boil  one  ounce  of  alum  in  one  gal- 
lon of  water,  pour  it  on  the  rinds,  and  let  them  stand  in  it 
several  hours  on  the  back  of  the  stove.  Take  out  into 
cold  water,  and  when  cold  boil  them  half  an  hour  in  the 
3weet  pickle. 

Ripe  Muskmelon  or  Canteloupe.  —  Pare,  and  cut  into 
thick  slices.  Pour  the  boiling  syrup  over  them.  The 
next  morning  pour  off  the  syrup,  boil  five  minutes,  and 
pour  it  boiling  hot  over  the  melon.  Repeat  this  on  three 
mornings. 

Pineapple.  —  Slice  it,  or  with  a  fork  pick  it  off  from 
the  centre,  in  small  pieces,  and  prepare  as  for  melon. 


404  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Tomato  Catchup.     (Mrs.  Campbell.) 

Boil  one  bushel  of  ripe  tomatoes,  skins  and  all,  and  when 
soft  strain  through  a  colander  to  remove  the  skins  only. 
Mix  one  cup  of  salt,  two  pounds  of  brown  sugar,  half  an 
ounce  of  cayenne  pepper,  three  ounces  each  of  ground  all- 
spice, mace,  and  celery  seed,  two  ounces  of  ground  cinna- 
mon, and  stir  into  the  tomato.  Add  two  quarts  of  best 
cider  vinegar,  and  when  thoroughly  mixed  strain  through 
a  sieve.  Pour  all  that  runs  through  into  a  large  kettle,  and 
boil  slowly  till  reduced  one  half.  It  is  an  improvement 
Xo  add  a  pint  of  brandy  ten  minutes  before  the  catchup 
is  done,  but  many  think  it  unnecessary.  Put  it  in  small 
bottles,  seal,  and  keep  in  a  cool,  dark  place. 

Piccallili,  or  Chow  Chow. 


1  peck  green  tomatoes. 
1  cup  ^alt. 
6  small  onions. 

1  large  head  celery. 

2  cups  brown  sugar. 


1  teaspoonful  white  pepper. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  ground  cinnamon. 

1  tablespoonf  ul  ground  allspice. 

1  tablespoonful  mustard. 

2  quarts  good,  sharp  vinegar. 


Chop  the  tomatoes,  mix  the  salt  with  them  thoroughly, 
and  let  them  stand  over  night.  In  the  morning  pour  off 
the  water,  and  chop  the  onion  and  celery.  Mix  the  sugar, 
pepper,  cinnamon,  and  mustard.  Put  in  a  porcelain  kettle 
a  layer  of  tomatoes,  onion,  celery,  and  spices,  and  so  on 
until  all  is  used,  and  cover  with  the  vinegar.  Cook  slowly 
all  day,  or  until  the  tomatoes  are  soft.  Cauliflower,  or 
cabbage,  or  one  quart  of  cucumbers  may  be  used  with  the 
tomatoes.  Sliced  or  grated  horseradish  gives  a  pleasant 
flavor. 

Pickled  Cucumbers.     (Miss  Harriott  Ward.) 

To  one  hundred  and  fifty  small-sized  cucumbers  take 
one  pint  of  salt,  dissolved  in  boiling  water  to  cover  them. 
Let  them  remain  in  a  covered  vessel  for  forty-eight  hours. 
Then  drain,  and  wipe  each  one  carefully.  Put  them  in  a 
pickle-pot  or  firkin  with  one  large  onion,  peeled  and 


Mixed  Pickles. 


405 


stuck  full  of  cloves,  one  green  pepper,  some  scraped  horse- 
radish, and  a  small  bit  of  alum.  Boil  vinegar  enough 
to  cover  them.  Fill  a  muslin  bag  with  one  cup  of  mixed 
spices, — whole  cloves,  whole  allspice,  peppercorns,  stick 
cinnamon,  white  mustard  seed,  and  a  flake  of  mace,  and 
boil  ten  minutes  with  the  vinegar.  Put  this  bag  in  the. 
firkin  when  you  pour  on  the  boiling  vinegar. 

When  cucumbers  are  gathered  fresh  from  the  vines 
ever}-  day,  they  may  be  kept  in  brine  till  wanted.  Make 
the  brine  strong  enough  to  float  an  egg,  —  a  pint  of  coarse 
salt  and  six  quarts  of  boiling  water,  boiled  and  skimmed 
clear.  Pick  the  cucumbers  as  they  ripen,  wash  carefully 
without  removing  the  prickles,  leave  a  bit  of  the  stem  on, 
and  keep  them  covered  with  the  brine.  Soak,  as  required, 
in  fresh  cold  water  two  days,  and  pour  boiling  spiced 
vinegar  over  them. 

Mixed  Pickles.     (Mrs.  Poor.) 


150  small  cucumbers. 
1  quart  small  martinoes. 
1  quart  small  button  onions. 
1  medium  cauliflower. 
Rind  of  }£  watermelon. 
3  pints  green  string  beans. 

3  cups  salt. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 

%  pound  horseradish  root. 
1  tablespoonful    white    mustard 
seed. 


1  tablespoonful   stick  cinnamon, 

broken  into  half-inch  pieces. 
1  tablespoonful  whole  cloves. 
%  tablespoonful  peppercorns. 
%  tablespoonful  allspice. 
%  tablespoonful  whole  mace. 

1  teaspoonful  celery  seed. 

2  quarts  white  wine  vinegar. 

1  ounce  alum. 

2  quarts  boiling  water. 
1  gill  alcohol. 


Wipe  the  cucumbers  and  martinoes  with  a  damp  cloth. 
Cut  the  cucumbers  lengthwise  into  quarters,  and  the  mar- 
tinoes into  halves.  Scald  and  peel  the  onions  ;  wash  the 
cauliflower,  watermelon  rind,  and  beans ;  break  the  cauli- 
flower into  small  pieces,  and  cut  the  melon  rind  about 
the  size  of  the  pieces  of  cucumber.  Dissolve  the  salt  in 
the  cold*  water.  Put  the  pickles  in  a  large  earthen  or 
tight  wooden  vessel,  and  pour  the  brine  over  them  ;  if  they 
are  not  covered,  add  more  cold  water.  Put  a  large  earthen 
plate  over  them,  with  a  clean  brick  or  stone  to  keep  them 


406  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

under  the  brine.  Let  them  stand  two  days,  remove  them 
from  the  brine,  and  wash  in  cold  water.  Wash  and  scrape 
the  horseradish  root.  Pack  the  pickles  in  a  stone  jar  or 
firkin.  Put  all  the  spices  into  a  bag  made  of  strainer  cloth. 
Boil  the  vinegar,  spices,  and  alum  in  a  porcelain  kettle  ten 
minutes,  skim  carefully,  add  the  boiling  water,  and  pour 
immediately  over  the  pickles.  If  a  stronger  spice  be 
desired,  le&ve  the  bag  on  the  top  of  the  pickles.  Set  them 
in  a  cold  place,  with  the  plate  and  weight  over  them  to 
keep  them  under  the  vinegar.  In  about  two  weeks  add 
the  alcohol,  and  in  four  weeks  they  will  be  ready  to  use. 

Mustard  Pickles.     (Mrs.  John  Sheldon.) 

Equal  quantities  of  small  cucumbers,  the  largest  ones 
sliced,  green  tomatoes  sliced,  cauliflower  picked  into  flow- 
erets, and  small  button  onions.  Keep  them  covered  with 
strongly  salted  water  twenty-four  hours.  In  the  morning 
scald  the  brine,  and  dissolve  in  it  a  bit  of  alum  the  size  of 
a  nutmeg.  Pour  the  boiling  brine  over  the  pickles.  When 
cold,  drain  thoroughly  and  prepare  as  much  vinegar  as 
there  were  quarts  of  brine.  To  one  quart  of  vinegar 
use  one  cup  of  brown  sugar,  half  a  cup  of  flour,  and  one 
fourth  of  a  pound  of  ground  mustard.  Boil  the  sugar  and 
vinegar.  Mix  the  flour  and  mustard,  and  stir  the  boiling 
vinegar  into  it,  and  when  smooth  pour  it  over  the  pickles. 

Canned  Fruit.     (Mrs.  John  Sheldon.) 

Put  the  prepared  fruit  in  a  jar,  and  cover  with  boiling 
syrup  sweetened  to  taste.  On  three  successive  mornings 
drain  off  the  syrup,  boil  again,  and  pour  over  the  fruit. 
The  last  morning,  let  fruit  and  s}rrup  come  just  to  the  boil- 
ing-point, but  do  not  boil ;  then  seal  immediately.  Fruit 
prepared  in  this  way  has  been  tested  by  the  author  and 
found  perfect.  Strawberries  preserve  their  shape  and 
never  ferment. 


Invalid  Cookery.  407 


GENERAL   HINTS   ON   CARING  AND 
COOKING  FOR  INVALIDS. 

Ventilation.  —  The  first  condition  of  comfort  and  re- 
covery to  the  patient  is  that  the  room  be  perfectly  ven- 
tilated, either  directly  or  from  fresh  air  in  an  adjoining 
room.  '  A  sunny  exposure  and  an  open  fire,  and  in  sum- 
mer an  open  fireplace,  are  essential  aids.  After  all 
these  points  are  secured,  care  must  be  taken  that  the  air 
be  not  vitiated  by  anything  in  the  room.  Growing  plants 
are  more  healthful  than  cut  flowers ;  unless  the  room  be 
large  and  airy,  the  latter  should  not  be  allowed  for  any 
length  of  time,  and  even  then  should  be  removed  as  soon 
as  their  freshness  is  gone.  If  possible,  avoid  having  a 
kerosene  lamp  in  a  sick-room.  The  odor  is  irritating  to 
the  mucous  membrane,  and  in  some  conditions  positively 
harmful.  The  wick  should  never  be  turned  below  the 
point  of  free  combustion,  either  in  the  room  of  the  sick 
or  well.  If  3^ou  wish  a  dim  light,  place  the  lamp  outside 
the  door,  or  shade  it  by  a  screen.  Never  turn  it  down, 
as  it  will  inevitably  vitiate  the  atmosphere. 

Avoid  noise  in  replenishing  the  fire,  by  bringing  the 
coal  in  a  paper  bag,  and  putting  bag  and  all  upon  the 
fire.  Keep  all  medicines  and  everything  suggestive  of  a 
sick-room  out  of  sight. 

The  Bed.  —  Arrange  the  bed  so  that  the  patient  may 
be  shielded  from  any  draught.  Neither  sun  nor  lamp 
light  should  shine  directly  in  the  eyes.  Whenever  it  is 
possible,  change  the  position  of  the  bed,  furniture,  and 
pictures,  that  the  eye  ma}'  have  something  new  and  inter- 
esting to  dwell  upon,  if  such  changes  interest  instead  of 


408  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

distress  the  invalid.  Two  small  beds,  that  the  patient 
may  find  relief  in  change,  are  desirable  ;  or,  if  possible, 
procure  an  invalid's  bed,  which  admits  of  many  changes  of 
position  and  the  airing  and  changing  of  the  bed  with  no 
accompanying  fatigue. 

Cleanliness.  —  It  is  of  the  first  importance  that  the  bed 
linen  and  clothing  of  the  patient  should  be  kept  fresh  by 
frequent  changes,  and  thoroughly  dried  and  aired.  Be 
careful  to  supply  the  needed  warmth  by  light  but  not  over- 
abundant clothing.  The  patient  should  be  bathed  freely  ; 
avoid  a  chill  by  giving  a  sponge  bath  with  alcohol  and 
warm  water,  exposing  only  a  part  of  the  body  at  a  time  to 
the  air,  and  rub  till  perfectly  dry. 

Wet  a  cotton-flannel  bag,  made  with  the  nap  side  out, 
in  cold  water,  wring  it  slightly,  and  tie  it  over  the  broom 
to  use  in  sweeping.  Be  careful  to  wash  it  every  time  it  is 
used.  It  is  quite  essential  that  the  floor  of  a  sick-room 
should  be  kept  clean.  Remove  all  dust  with  a  damp 
cloth.  The  cleansing,  drying,  or  airing  of  all  objects 
should  be  done  outside  of  the  sick-room.  Keep  the 
room,  the  bed,  the  patient,  and  everything  about  yourself 
absolutely  neat  and  clean. 

Conversation.  — In  extreme  sickness  let  no  unnecessary 
word  be  spoken  in  a  sick-room,  and  no  needless,  noisy, 
nor  abrupt  movements  be  made.  Let  the  voice  be  calm 
and  clear,  neither  loud  nor  whispering.  In  speaking  to 
the  patient  do  so  in  the  way  that  requires  the  least  effort 
in  response,  and  never  consult  him  about  his  food.  Avoid 
all  discussions  of  the  disease,  the  medicine,  and  any  excit- 
ing topic  either  with  or  before  him.  Do  not  excite  the 
patient  by  needless  conversation  with  the  doctor  outside  of 
the.  sick-room.  Never  whisper,  even  when  the  patient  is 
asleep  or  in  delirium,  because  a  whisper  is  more  penetrat- 
ing than  a  low  full  tone.  During  convalescence  do  not 
weary  with  conversation  ;  let  it  always  be  bright  and  cheer- 
ful, and,  as  far  as  possible,  of  things  outside  the  sick-room. 
Cultivate  the  power  of  talking  to,  rather  than  with,  a  sick 
person. 


Care  of  Invalids.  409 


Conveniences  in  a  Sick- Room.  —  "In  severe  sickness 
a  glass  tube  is  useful  for  feeding  drinks  and  gruels  ;  and 
little  white  china  boats  with  spouts  are  also  good.  A 
wooden  tray  with  legs  six  or  seven  inches  high,  to  stand 
upon  the  bed,  is  ver}'  convenient  for  serving  meals." 

To  keep  Ice  for  a  Sick- Room.  — Tie  a  square  of  coarse 
white  flannel  over  a  pitcher,  leaving  a  cup-shaped  depres- 
sion of  the  flannel  in  the  pitcher.  Put  broken  ice  in  the 
flannel,  and  cover  it  tightly  with  a  thicker  flannel.  The 
ice  will  keep  all  night,  and  the  water  may  be  poured  off  as 
wanted. 

In  applying  hot  bandages  dip  the  flannel  in  boiling 
water,  place  it  in  the  centre  of  a  coarse  towel,  and  twist 
and  wring  the  ends  of  the  towel ;  or  place  the  flannels  in  a 
steamer  over  hot  water  until  penetrated  with  the  steam  ; 
they  will  then  need  no  wringing. 

Feeding  the  Patient.  —  When  feeding  the  patient,  do  it 
gently  and  neatly.  Anticipate  his  wants,  and  let  the  food 
be  a  surprise  as  far  as  practicable.  In  severe  sickness  give 
nourishment  in  a  small  quantity  often,  and  never  fail  to 
give  it  immediately  after  a  long  sleep.  During  convales- 
cence food  should  be  given  at  longer,  but  regular  intervals. 
If  the  patient  be  unable  to  use  a  toothbrush,  wet  a  bit  of 
soft  cloth  and  wipe  the  teeth  and  gums,  and  give  a  little 
water  or  acid  drink  to  soften  the  dry  mucous  membrane 
and  destroy  the  bad  taste  in  the  mouth,  before  offering 
any  food. 

Let  everything  prepared  for  the  invalid  be  arranged  to 
please  the  eye  as  well  as  the  palate.  Serve  less  than  you 
think  the  patient  requires,  and  give  as  much  variety  as 
possible,  serving  in  different  forms  or  in  different  dishes 
if  the  material  must  be  the  same.  Hot  liquids  should  be 
hot  when  they  reach  the  patient,  not  merely  when  they 
leave  the  kitchen.  Serve  them  in  a  hot  pitcher,  and  pour 
only  a  little  into  the  hot  cup  or  bowl,  and  so  avoid  its  run- 
ning over  into  the  saucer  or  too  rapid  cooling.  Never 
insult  the  patient  by  offering  him  a  slice  of  dough  covered 
with  charcoal,  under  the  name  of  toast.  When  the  meal  is 


4i o  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

over,  remove  immediate!}'  evenr  trace  of  food  from  the 
room.  Keep  in  the  sick-room  choice  fruit  or  any  delica- 
cies which  have  been  sent  to  the  patient  only  long  enough 
to  gratify  the  eye,  then  remove  to  a  cool  place,  and  serve 
as  fresh  and  daintily  as  possible. 

Wines  or  liquors  of  any  kind  should  never  be  given 
without  the  advice  of  a  physician.  Young  persons  do  not 
need  them,  and,  in  an}7  form  of  fever,  stimulants  are  posi- 
tively harmful.  In  some  extreme  cases,  among  very  old 
people,  or  where  there  is  a  great  lack  of  recuperative 
power,  they  may  be  given. 

Visitors.  —  Visitors  should  never  be  admitted  to  a  sick- 
room, except  with  the  consent  of  the  physician.  Never 
visit  a  sick-room  when  in  a  violent  perspiration  or  with 
an  empty  stomach,  as  then  the  system  more  readily  re- 
ceives contagion.  If  obliged  to  sit  up  all  night  with  a 
patient,  provide  yourself  with  something  to  eat,  if  nothing 
more  than  a  cake  of  chocolate,  that  there  may  be  no 
needless  exhaustion. 

Not  the  least  of  the  many  qualifications  desirable  in  a 
good  nurse  is  a  thorough  knowledge  of  the  nature,  use,  and 
digestibility,  as  well  as  the  best  methods  of  preparing  dif- 
ferent kinds  of  food,  and  of  their  adaptation  to  different 
•  forms  of  disease.  Such  knowledge  is  of  still  greater  im- 
portance to  every  physician,  and  fully  as  essential  as  the 
study  of  drugs.  Nurses,  alas !  are  often  wholly  unquali- 
fied, or  not  to  be  obtained  at  all ;  and  then  that  patient 
is  fortunate,  indeed,  who  has  a  physician  who  can  in 
emergency  fill  the  treble  office  of  nurse,  cook,  and  doctor. 

Diet  for  the  Invalid. 

First  Condition.  —  Sometimes  the  system  from  over- 
taxation, either  mental  or  physical,  needs  a  period  of 
complete  rest  or  comparative  inaction  ;  or,  as  in  the  com- 
mencement of  many  forms  of  sickness,  the  diet  should  be 
food  which  merely  satisfies  the  hunger  and  which  soothes 
and  reduces  inflammation  and  quenches  thirst,  but  does 


G-ruels. 


not  nourish  nor  stimulate.     Foods  proper  at  such  times  j 

come  under  the  head  of  starchy  gruels,  gelatinous  soups  j 

and  jellies,  oranges,  grapes,  etc.,  and  mucilaginous,  acid,  I 
and  aromatic  drinks. 

Flour  or  Arrowroot  Gruel. 

1  cup  boiling  water.  j  2  teaspoonfuls  flour,  wet  in  cold 

1  saltspoonful  salt.  water. 

Cornstarch  and  rice-flour  gruels  are  made  in  a  similar 
manner.  Use  a  little  more  of  wheat  flour  than  of  the 
others. 

Mix  the  flour  and  salt,  and  make  into  a  smooth  thin 
paste  with  cold  water,  then  stir  it  into  the  boiling  water. 
Cook  five  minutes,  or  until  the  desired  consistency  is  ob- 
tained. Strain ;  then  add  sugar ,  if  preferred,  and  thin 
mth  a  little  milk.  If  intended  for  a  fever  patient,  a  little 
lemon  juice  improves  the  flavor ;  if  for  a  patient  with  sum- 
mer complaint,  boil  with  the  gruel  half  an  inch  stick  of 
cinnamon  or  a  little  nutmeg,  —  the  spice  will  help  to  re-  >, 
duce  the  laxative  condition.  Sick  people  soon  tire  of 
sweets,  and  gruels  should  be  sweetened  only  slightly,  if 
at  all.  Flour  and  starchy  gruels  should  not  be  given  in 
typhoid  fever,  or  when  the  disease  is  located  in  the  intes- 
tines. Nor  should  they  ever  be  used  in  excess,  as,  being 
rapidly  swallowed,  the}'  are  unaffected  by  the  alkaline 
action  of  the  saliva,  and  pass  through  the  stomach  un- 
changed and  severely  tax  the  intestines.  They  should 
be  kept  in  the  mouth  and  mingled  with  the  saliva  before 
swallowing. 

Milk  Porridge. 

2  dozen  raisins,  quartered.       I         1  tablespoonful  flour. 
2  cups  milk.  Salt  to  taste. 

Boil  the  raisins  in  a  little  water  twenty  minutes.  Let 
the  water  boil  away,  and  add  the  milk.  When  boiling, 
add  the  flour  rubbed  to  a  thin  paste  with  a  little  cold 
milk.  Boil  eight  or  ten  minutes.  Season  with  salt  and 


412  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

strain.  Or  omit  the  raisins,  and  add  sugar  to  taste ; 
or  add  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg  after  it  comes  from 
the  stove. 

Barley  Gruel. 

Boil  one  ounce  of  pearl  barley  a  few  minutes,  to  cleanse 
it.  Pour  off  the  water,  add  one  quart  of  cold  water  and 
half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  simmer  one  hour,  or  until 
reduced  one  half.  Strain  it ;  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  a 
little  lemon  or  nutmeg,  if  desired.  Barley  contains  muci-  ' 
lage,  and  is  soothing  and  refreshing  in  fevers  and  gastric 
inflammation. 

Indian  Meal  Gruel. 

1  tablespoonf ul  flour.  1  teaspoonful  salt. 

2  tablespoonfuls  corn  meal.  1  quart  boiling  water., 

Mix  the  flour,  mealj  and  salt.  Make  into  a  thin  paste 
With  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  into  the  boiling  water. 
Boil  thirty  minutes,  stirring  often ;  thin  with  milk  01 
cream.  Milk  may  be  used  instead  of  water  by  mak- 
ing the  gruel  in  a  double  boiler.  Indian  meal  gruel 
requires  longer  time  for  cooking  than  any  purely  starchj 
gruels. 

No.  2.  —  Wet  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  meal  and 
one  saltspoonful  of  salt  in  a  little  cold  water,  and  stir  into 
one  cup  of  boiling  water.  Boil  slowly  thirty  minutes. 

Indian  corn  meal  is  heating  in  its  nature,  and  should 
never  be  given  where  there  is  any  inflammatory  condition 
of  the  sj'stem.     If  given  during  convalescence  after  scarlet 
fever,  it  sometimes  produces  glandular  swellings.     When  j 
there  is  a  deficiency  of  natural  warmth,  and  no  inflamma-  [ 
tion,  it  may  be  given  without  harm. 


Oatmeal  Gruel. 


2  tablespoonf uls  oatmeal. 


1  quart  boiling  water. 


%  teaspoonful  salt. 
Boil  one  hour.     Strain,  and  serve  with  milk  or  cream. 


Grueh.  413 


No.  2.  —  Pound  half  a  cup  of  coarse  oatmeal  until  it  is 
mealy.  Put  it  in  a  tumbler,  and  fill  the  tumbler  with  cold 
water.  Stir  well ;  let  it  settle ;  then  pour  off  the  mealy 
water  into  a  saucepan.  Fill  again,  and  pour  off  the  water, 
and  again  repeat  this,  being  careful  each  time  not  to  dis- 
turb the  sediment  in  the  bottom  of  the  tumbler.  Then  boil 
the  water  twenty  minutes.  Add  one  saltspoonful  of  salt. 
If  very  thick,  add  a  little  cream  or  milk.  Strain  and  serve 
hot.  Beef  essence  or  beef  tea  may  be  used  in  place  of  cream. 
This  is  the  most  palatable  and  convenient  way  of  making 
gruel  from  oatmeal. 

Farina  Gruel. 

1  tablespoonful  Hecker's  farina.    I         1  cup  boiling  water. 
1  saltspoonful  salt.  1  cup  milk. 

Put  all  but  the  milk  in  the  double  boiler,  and  cook  fifteen 
minutes,  or  until  it  thickens,  then  add  the  milk  and  boil 
again.  Sweeten  to  taste. 

Farina  is  a  granulated  preparation  of  the  inner  portion 
of  the  finest  wheat,  freed  from  bran  and  floury  dust.  It 
contains  nitrogenous  or  flesh-forming  material,  is  easily 
digested,  and  is  a  more  nutritive  food  for  invalids  and 
children  than  cornstarch,  sago,  arrowroot,  or  tapioca, 
which  contain  only  starch. 

Cracker  Gruel. 

4  tablesp.  powdered  cracker.  1  cup  milk. 

1  cup  boiling  water.  %  teaspoonful  salt 

Boil  up  once  and  serve. 

Egg  Gruel, 

1  egg  (yolk  beaten  well).         I    1  cup  hot  milk. 

1  teaspoonful  sugar.  |    White  of  egg,  beaten  till  foamy 

Flavor  with  nutmeg  or  lemon.  Good  for  a  violent  cold 
if  taken  very  hot  after  retiring. 


414  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Panada,  No.  1. 


1  cup  stoned  raisins. 

1  quart  water. 

2  slices  toasted  bread,  or 


1  cup  bread  crumbs. 

2  eggs. 

1  tablespoonful  sugar. 


Boil  the  raisins  one  hour.  Skim  out  the  raisins,  and 
add  the  bread  to  the  boiling  water ;  boil  fifteen  minutes, 
stirring  well.  Beat  the  eggs,  add  the  sugar,  and  pour  the 
panada  over  them,  stirring  all  the  time. 

N~o.  2.  —  Split  two  Boston  or  Graham  crackers.  Put 
them  into  a  bowl,  sprinkle  with  sugar  and  salt,  and  cover 
with  boiling  water.  Set  the  bowl  in  a  pan  of  boiling 
water  for  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  crackers  are  clear. 
Slide  them  out  into  a  hot  saucer,  and  serve  very  hot  with 
sugar  and  cream. 

No.  3.  —  Boil  one  tablespoonful  of  cracker  crumbs  five 
minutes  in  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  slightly  sweetened* 
salted,  and  flavored  with  lemon. 

Oatmeal  Mush  for  Children  or  Invalids. 

1  cup  granulated  oatmeal.  1  scant  quart  boiling  water. 

%  teaspoonful  salt. 

Put  the  meal  and  salt  in  the  double  boiler,  pour  on  the 
boiling  water,  and  cook  two  or  three  hours.  Remove 
the  cover  just  before  serving,  and  stir  with  a  fork  to  let  the 
steam  escape.  If  the  water  in  the  lower  boiler  be  strongly 
salted,  the  meal  will  cook  more  quickly.  Serve  with  sugar, 
or  salt,  and  cream.  Baked  sour  apples,  apple  sauce,  and 
apple  jelly  are  delicious  eaten  with  the  oatmeal.  They 
should  be  served  with  the  mush,  and  the  cream  and  sugar 
poured  over  the  whole.  They  give  the  acid  flavor  which 
so  many  crave  in  the  morning. 

Coarse  oatmeal  is  not  suitable  for  any  form  of  water 
brash,  acidity,  or  bowel  irritation.  It  often  causes  erup- 
tions on  the  skin  in  warm  weather. 


Mushes.  415 


Indian  Meal  Mush. 

1  cup  corn  meal.  1  cup  cold  milk. 

%  teaspoonf  ul  salt.  1  pint  boiling  water. 

Mix  the  meal  and  salt  with  the  cold  milk.  Stir  this 
gradually  into  the  boiling  water.  Cook  half  an  hour  in  a 
double  boiler,  stirring  often. 

(rra.ha.TTi  Mush. 

Mix  half  a  cup  of  Graham  flour  and  half  a  teaspoon- 
ful  of  salt.  Make  it  into  a  thin  smooth  paste  with  a  little 
cold  water.  Stir  it  into  one  pint  of  boiling  water.  Cook 
twenty  minutes,  stirring  often.  Serve  with  cream. 

Rye  Mush  is  made  in  the  same  manner,  and  sometimes 
served  with  molasses. 

Gluten  Mush.  — Use  one  cup  of  gluten  to  one  pint  of 
boiling  water,  and  cook  as  above.  Being  destitute  of 
starch,  it  will  not  thicken  like  Rye  Mush. 

Brain  Food.    (Health  Food  Co.} 

Wet  one  cup  of  Brain  Food  in  a  little  cold  water,  and 
stir  it  into  one  quart  of  salted  boiling  water.  Cook  over 
hot  water  one  to  two  hours.  Eat,  hot  or  cold,  with  sugar 
and  cream. 

Rice  Water  or  Jelly. 

2  tablespoonfuls  rice.  Salt  and  sugar  to  taste. 
1  quart  cold  water. 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  rice,  and  cook  in  water  one  hour, 
or  till  the  rice  is  dissolved.  Add  salt  and  sugar  to  taste. 
If  intended  for  jelly,  add  lemon  juice  and  strain  into  a 
mould.  When  cold,  serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  If  to 
be  used  as  a  drink,  add  more  hot  water,  enough  to  make  a 
thin  liquid,  and  boil  longer.  Add  half  a  square  inch  of 
stick  cinnamon,  and  strain.  Serve  hot  or  cold. 

Rice  is  easily  digested  and  almost  wholly  assimilated  • 
it  is  good  in  diarrhoea  or  dysentery. 


416  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Tapioca  Jelly. 


%  cup  pearl  tapioca. 
1  pint  cold  water. 


1  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 
1  heaping  tablespoonful  sugar. 


1  saltspoonful  salt. 

Pick  over  and  wash  the  tapioca.  Add  the  cold  water, 
and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  until  entirely  dissolved.  Then 
add  the  salt,  lemon  juice,  and  sugar.  Turn  into  a  mould. 
Serve  with  sugar  and  cream.  Half  a  cup  of  strawberry, 
raspberry,  or  blackberry  jam  or  currant  jelly  may  be  used 
in  place  of  lemons. 

Irish  Moss  Jelly. 


%  cup  Irish  moss. 
1  pint  boiling  water. 


1  lemon. 

^3  cup  sugar. 


Soak  the  moss  in  cold  water  until  soft.  Pick  over  and 
wash  again.  Then  put  it  into  the  boiling  water,  and  sim- 
mer until  it  is  dissolved.  Add  the  lemon  juice  and  sugar. 
Strain  into  a  mould.  Use  currant  jelly  in  place  of  lemon, 
or  steep  four  or  five  figs  with  the  moss. 

Sea  mosses  contain  bromine  and  iodine,  and  are  useful 
in  rheumatic  affections.  Iceland  moss  may  be  used  in  the 
same  manner.  This,  when  dried,  contains  more  starch 
than  potatoes,  and  more  flesh  food  than  oatmeal  or  corn. 

Restorative.  Jelly. 


3^  box  gelatine. 
1  cup  port  wine. 
1  tablesp.  powdered  gum  arabic. 


2  tablespoonfuls  lemon  juice. 

3  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 
2  cloves. 


Put  all  together  in  a  glass  jar,  and  cover  closely.  Place 
the  jar  on  a  trivet  in  a  kettle  of  cold  water.  Heat  it  slowly, 
and  when  the  mixture  is  dissolved,  stir  well  and  strain. 
Pour  into  a  shallow  dish,  and  when  cool  cut  it  into  small 
squares.  This  is  good  for  an  old  person  or  a  very  weak 
patient. 

Mutton  Broth. 

To  make  it  quickly  for  an  invalid,  chop  one  pound  of 
lean  juicy  mutton  very  fine  ;  pour  over  it  one  pint  of  cold 


Invalid   Cookery.  417 


water.  Let  it  stand  until  the  water  is  very  red,  then  heat 
it  slowly.  Let  it  simmer  ten  minutes.  Strain,  season,  and 
add  two  tablespoonfuls  of  soft-boiled  rice,  or  thicken  it 
slightly  with  rice  flour  wet  with  cold  water.  Serve  hot. 
When  given  to  a  person  with  a  severe  cold,  or  a  consump- 
tive, the  fat  should  not  be  removed,  as  it  is  soothing  to 
the  chest,  and  when  absorbed  by  the  rice  or  some  starchy 
material  is  not  uninviting  to  the  eye.  For  a  fever  patient, 
tne  fat  should  be  removed.  When  }rou  have  not  time  to 
cool  the  broth,  a  piece  of  soft  tissue  paper  passed  over  the 
surface  helps  to  take  up  any  globules  of  fat  which  will 
not  come  off  with  a  spoon. 

Barley  Soup. 

Remove  the  fat  and  bones  from  one  pound  of  the  neck  of 
mutton.  Cut  the  meat  into  dice,  and  add  to  it  one  table- 
spoonful  of  well-was/ied  barley  and  one  pint  of  cold  water. 
Heat  slowly,  and  simmer  two  hours.  Put  the  bones  into 
one  cup  of  cold  water,  and  boil  gently  half  an  hour.  Then 
strain  into  the  meat  and  barley.  Season  with  salt.  Skim 
off  the  fat,  and  serve  with  whole-wheat  or  gluten  wafers. 

Calves'-Foot  Jelly  or  Broth. 


4  calves'  feet. 

4  quarts  cold  water. 

1  cup  sugar. 

2  lemons. 


2  inch  stick  cinnamon. 
1  inch  blade  mace. 

3  eggs  (whites  and  shells). 
1  pint  wine. 


Scald  the  feet,  and  clean  thoroughly.  Split,  break  the 
bones,  and  put  them  into  the  cold  water.  Heat  slowl}', 
and  simmer  gently  until  reduced  to  three  pints.  Strain, 
and  when  cool  remove  the  fat.  Add  the  other  ingredients 
except  the  wine.  Put  it  over  the  fire,  and  stir  until  hot. 
Let  it  boil  five  minutes,  or  till  a  thick  scum  has  formed. 
Set  it  back  on  the  stove  ;  skim,  and  add  the  wine.  Strain, 
through  a  fine  napkin  into  a  shallow  dish.  When  ready  to 
serve,  cut  it  into  blocks,  or  break  it  up  lightly  with  a  fork. 
If  intended  for  broth,  simply  remove  the  fat,  season  to 

9.7 


4i 8  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

taste,  and  stir  it  into  a  beaten  egg ;  or  add  sago  or  tapi- 
oca, having  first  soaked  and  boiled  it  till  soft.  Veal  broth 
is  not  very  palatable  in  itself ;  and  as  it  does  not  contain 
the  nutritive  qualities  of  beef  or  mutton  broth,  it  is  not 
well  to  use  it  in  the  sick-room  except  for  a  variety. 

Chicken  Jelly  or  Broth. 

Clean  a  small  chicken.  Disjoint  and  cut  the  meat  into 
half-inch  pieces.  Remove  all  the  fat.  Break  or  pound  the 
bones.  Dip  the  feet  into  boiling  water,  and  scald  until  the 
skin  and  nails  will  peel  off.  The  feet  contain  gelatine,  and 
when  well  cleaned  maybe  used  for  jelly.  Cover  the  meat, 
feet,  and  bones  with  cold  water  ;  heat  very  slowly,  and  sim- 
mer till  the  meat  is  tender.  Strain,  and  when  cool  remove 
the  fat.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  lemon,  and  add  the 
shell  and  white  of  one  egg.  Put  it  over  the  fire,  and  stir 
well  until  hot.  Let  it  boil  five  minutes.  Skim,  and  strain 
through  a  fine  napkin.  Pour  it  into  small  cups,  and  cool 
it  if  intended  for  jelly.  When  the  patient  can  take  it, 
small  dice  of  the  breast  meat  may  be  moulded  in  the  jelly. 
Serve  hot,  without  clearing,  if  intended  for  broth. 

Beef  Jelly  or  Broth. 

Prepare  the  same  as  for  Bouillon  (page  131).  If  in- 
tended for  jelly,  clear  it  as  directed  for  Clear  Soup. 

Barley  Water. 


1  tablespoonful  pearl  barley. 
3  blocks  sugar. 


%  lemon. 

1  quart  boiling  water. 


Wash  the  barley  in  cold  water,  then  pour  off  the  water, 
and  put  the  barlej',  sugar,  and  lemon  into  the  boiling  water, 
and  let  it  stand  covered  and  warm  for  three  hours ;  then 
strain  it.  Currant  jelly  or  orange  juice  may  be  used  in- 
stead of  lemon.  This  is  a  valuable  demulcent  in  colds, 
affections  of  the  chest,  hectic  fever,  strangury  and  othef 
diseases  of  the  bladder  or  urinary  organs. 


Invalid  Cookery.  419 


Gum  Water. 

1  ounce  clean  gum  arable,  and  1  pint  boiling  water. 

)o  ounce  sugar,  dissolved  in  1  lemon  (juice). 

When  dissolved,  add  the  lemon  juice,  and  strain  through 
a  fine  strainer.     This  is  soothing  in  inflammation  of  the/ 
mucous  membrane. 

Toast  Water.  —  Toast  one  pint  of  white  or  brown  bread 
crusts  very  brown,  but  be  careful  not  to  burn  them ;  add 
one  pint  of  cold  water ;  let  it  stand  for  one  hour,  then 
strain,  and  add  cream  and  sugar  to  taste.  The  nourish- 
ment in  the  bread  is  easily  absorbed  when  taken  in  this 
liquid  form. 

Crust  Coffee.  —  Pour  one  pint  of  boiling  water  over 
two  slices  of  brown  toast.  Steep  ten  minutes,  and  strain. 
Add  sugar  and  cream  to  taste. 

Corn  Tea  and  Rice  Coffee.  —  Brown  one  cup  of  dried 
sweet  corn  or  rice.  Pound  or  grind  it  fine.  Add  one  pint 
of  cold  water,  and  steep  it  one  hour.  Strain,  and  serve 
with  sugar  and  cream.  These  are  pleasant  and  nourishing 
beverages. 

Slippery-Elm  Tea.  —  Pour  one  cup  of  boiling  water 
upon  one  teaspoonful  of  slippery-elm  powder  or  a  piece 
of  the  bark.  When  cool,  strain  and  flavor  with  lemon 
juice  and  sugar.  This  is  soothing  in  any  inflammation 
of  the  mucous  membrane. 

Acid  Fruit  Drinks. 

Pour  boiling  water  on  mashed  cranberries,  barberries, 
or  whortleberries.  When  cold,  strain,  and  sweeten  to  taste. 

No.  2. —  Stir  a  tablespoonful  of  any  acid  jelly  or  fruit 
syrup  into  one  tumbler  of  ice  water. 

No.  3.  —  Dissolve  one  tablespoonful  of  cream  of  tartar 
in  one  pint  of  water.  Sweeten  to  taste. 

Apple  Tea.  —  Roast  two  large  sour  apples,  cover  with 
boiling  water ;  when  cool,  pour  off  the  water  and  strain. 
Add  sugar  to  taste. 


42O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Jelly  and  Ice.  —  With  a  large  needle  or  pin,  chip  half  a 
cup  of  ice  into  bits  as  large  as  a  pea.  Mix  with  it  about 
the  same  quantity  of  lemon,  currant,  blackberry,  or  bar- 
berry jelly.  Very  refreshing  in  fevers,  j 

Tamarind  Water.  —  Boil  two  ounces  of  tamarinds  with 
four  ounces  of  stoned  raisins  in  three  pints  of  water  for 
one  hour.  Strain  and  cool. 

Baked  Lemon.  —  Bake  a  lemon  or  sour  orange  twenty 
minutes  in  a  moderate  oven.  When  done,  open  at  one 
end  and  take  out  the  inside.  Sweeten  with  sugar  or  mo- 
lasses. This  is  excellent  for  hoarseness  and  pressure  on 
the  lungs. 

Lemonade.  —  Squeeze  the  juice  from  one  lemon  and 
add  one  tablespoonful  of  sugar.  Pour  on  one  cup  of 
boiling  water,  and  cool.  Or  take  hot  for  a  cold,  after 
retiring. 

Flaxseed  Lemonade.  —  Pour  one  quart  of  boiling  water 
over  four  tablespoonfuls  of  whole  flaxseed,  and  steep  three 
hours.  Strain  and  sweeten  to  taste,  and  add  the  juice  of 
two  lemons.  Add  a  little  more  water  if  the  liquid  seem  too 
thick.  This  is  soothing  in  colds. 

Irish-Moss  Lemonade.  —  Soak,  pick  over,  and  wash 
one  quarter  of  a  cup  of  Irish  moss.  Pour  on  one  pint  of 
boiling  water.  Heat  to  the  boiling-point,  but  not  boil 
and  keep  it  at  that  temperature  half  an  hour.  Strain,  and 
squeeze  into  it  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  or  enough  to  give  it 
an  acid  taste.  Sweeten  to  taste.  Add  acid  phosphate  in 
place  of  the  lemon,  if  preferred. 

Wine  Whey.  —  Boil  one  cup  of  new  milk,  and  add  one 
cup  of  wine.  Let  it  stand  on  the  back  of  the  stove  five 
minutes.  Strain,  and  sweeten  the  whey. 

The  whey,  or  water,  of  milk  contains  the  sugar,  salt,  and 
other  saline  bodies  necessary  for  digestion  and  the  repair 
of  the  mineral  part  of  the  body. 

Herb  Teas. 

Pour  one  cup  of  boiling  water  over  one  tablespoonful  of 
the  he.rbn.  Cover  the  bowl,  set  it  over  the  teakettle,  and 


Feeding  the  Patient.  421 

steep  ten  minutes.  Sweeten  if  desired.  Mullein  tea  is 
good  for  inflammation  of  the  lungs ;  Chamomile  tea,  for 
sleeplessness ;  Calamus  and  Catnip  tea,  for  colds  and 
infants'  colic ;  Cinnamon  tea,  for  hemorrhages ;  Water-  j 
melon-seed  and  Pumpkin- seed  tea,  for  strangury  and 
summer  complaint.  A  few  sprigs  of  sage,  bumet,  balm, 
and  sorrel,  half  a  lemon.,  sliced,  and  three  pints  of  boiling 
water,  sweetened  to  taste,  and  covered  closely  until  cold, 
makes  an  agreeable  drink  for  a  fever  patient. 

Another  Condition  in  sickness  occurs  when,  after  long- 
continued,  prostrating,  or  rapidly  wasting  disease',  the  sys- 
tem demands  immediate  nourishment  to  supply  that  waste, 
or  when  there  is  a  lack  of  nutrition  from  any  cause.  Food 
that  contains  the  most  nourishment  in  the  most  easily  as- 
similated form  is  now  needed ;  but  the  physician  should 
always  be  consulted  as  to  the  food  suitable  during  the  dif- 
ferent diseases.  Liquid  food  is  most  suitable,  and  should 
be  food  as  well  as  drink.  In  nearly  all  cases  of  fever  milk 
is  given  when  the  patient  can  take  it.  Two  or  three  grains 
of  pepsin  in  a  cup  of  milk  or  broth  facilitate  its  digestion. 
In  typhoid  fever  milk  has  often  proved  of  great  value,  and 
is  now  generall}'  recommended  by  the  medical  faculty  in  all 
cases  of  scarlet  fever,  nervous  disorder,  and  all  diseases 
arising  from  imperfect  nutrition.  It  keeps  up  the  strength 
of  the  patient,  acts  well  upon  the  stomach,  soothes  the  in- 
testines, and  promotes  sleep.  It  should  be  taken  slowly  to 
prevent  the  curdling  in  a  dense  mass  which  may  occur  if  too  , 
much  be  taken  at  once.  A  pint  of  hot  milk  taken  slowly,  j 
every  four  hours,  will  often  check  the  most  violent  diar-  ! 
rhcea  and  d}*sentery.  It  should  never  be  boiled,  only  \ 
scalded. 

Eggnog  or  broth,  meat  broth,  farina  and  oatmeal  gruel, 
and  port  wine  jelly,  are  all  suitable  at  such  times  ;  but  beef 
juice  and  tea  are  most  generally  used  by  physicians.  They 
afford  a  fluid  and  easily  assimilated  form  of  food,  and  have 
a  remarkable  power  of  restoring  the  vigorous  action  of  the 
heart,  and  dissipating  the  sense  of  exhaustion  following 


422  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

severe,  prolonged  exertion.  When  taken  alone,  they  are 
stimulating  rather  than  nutritive,  and  a  patient  would  soon 
starve  if  he  did  not  have  the  addition  of  the  fibrine  of  the 
meat  or  of  some  farinaceous  food,  like  bread  crumbs  or 
oatmeal. 

Beef  Essence  and  Beef  Tea. 

Beef  essence  is  the  pure  juice  of  the  meat.  This  is  given 
where  a  patient  needs  much  nourishment  in  a  small  com- 
pass. Beef  tea  is  the  juice  of  the  meat  diluted  with  water. 
It  is  a  mistake  to  think  that  any  beef  because  it  is  lean 
or  cheap  is  good  enough  for  beef  tea.  It  will  do  for  the 
soup-kettle,  but  not  for  those  who  are  ill.  Meat  for  beef 
tea  should  be  lean,  juicy,  and  of  good  flavor.  Every  par- 
ticle of  fat,  skin,  and  membrane  must  be  removed.  The 
top  of  the  round  and  the  back  and  middle  of  the  rump  con- 
tain the  most  and  the  best-flavored  juice.  It  costs  more 
per  pound  than  some  other  pieces ;  but  as  it  yields  nearly 
double  the  amount  of  juice,  it  is  really  cheaper.  The  ten- 
derloin is  often  recommended  for  sick  persons.  It  should 
never  be  used  for  beef  tea,  as  it  contains  very  little  juice 
and  lacks  flavor.  When  the  tender  fibre  of  the  meat  is 
desired,  it  may  be  broiled,  and  served  with  the  juice  from 
some  tougher  steak. 

Broiling  is  the  quickest,  and  sometimes  the  most 
palatable,  way  of  preparing  both  essence  and  tea  in  an 
emergency. 

Drawing  and  heating  the  meat  and  juice  is  best  where 
a  little  nourishment  is  to  be  given  often,  and  where  all  the 
elements  of  the  meat  are  needed.  Soaking  in  cold  water, 
then  straining,  and  heating  the  juice  only,  is  the  most 
economical  way,  as  more  than  twice  the  usual  amount  of 
juice  may  be  obtained  by  adding  more  water  when  the 
meat  has  not  been  heated. 

The  albuminous  juices  of  meat  coagulate  at  160°  ;  if  the 
tea  be  allowed  to  boil,  they  become  hard,  and  settle  almost 
immediately  when  served.  Many  make  the  mistake  of 
straining  the  tea,  or  leaving  the  sediment  untouched.  If 


Beef  Essence.  423 


the  tea  be  heated  just  enough  to  make  it  palatable,  it  will 
hold  the  juices  in  solution,  not  separated,  and  will  be  thick, 
and  of  the  color  of  chocolate,  and  much  more  palatable 
and  nutritious  than  when  boiled. 

Broiled  Beef  Essence.  —  Broil  half  a  pound  of  round 
steak  one  or  two  minutes,  or  until  the  juice  will  flow.  Cut 
it  into  small  pieces.  Squeeze  the  juice  into  a  bowl  placed 
over  warm  water.  Salt,  and  serve  without  reheating.  Or 
pour  it  over  a  slice  of  hot  dry  toast 

Broiled  Beef  Tea.  —  Add  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water 
to  the  meat  after  broiling  as  above. 

Bottled  Beef  Essence.  —  Put  two  pounds  of  round 
steak,  cut  in  small  pieces,  into  a  jar  without  water.  Place 
the  jar,  covered  closely,  on  a  trivet  in  a  kettle  of  cold 
water.  Heat  gradual!}-,  and  keep  it  not  quite  at  the 
boiling-point  for  two  hours,  or  till  the  meat  is  white. 
Strain,  pressing  the  meat  to  obtain  all  the  juice ;  season 
with  salt.  Or  place  the  jar  in  a  moderate  oven  for  three 
hours.  The  liquid  thus  obtained  contains  all  the  nutritive 
parts  of  the  meat.  It  may  be  kept  in  the  refrigerator, 
and  a  small  portion  heated  (not  boiled),  as  wanted.  Or  it 
may  be  made  into  beef  tea  b}~  diluting  with  boiling  water. 
Beef  essence  given  ice  cold  is  sometimes  more  agreeable 
to  a  fever  patient. 

Bottled  Beef  Tea.  —  Add  one  cup  of  cold  water  to  the 
meat  in  the  jar,  and  make  as  above.  When  the  patient 
can  take  a  little  solid  food,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  of 
stale  bread  crumbs  to  the  beef  tea,  or  mix  with  it  oat- 
meal gruel,  or  add  one  teaspoonful  of  finely  chopped  raw 
meat. 

Stewed  Beef  Essence.  —  Cut  half  a  pound  of  round 
steak  into  small  pieces,  season  with  one  saltspoonful  of 
salt,  press  it  with  a  pestle  or  potato-masher,  and  let  it 
stand  in  a  covered  bowl  half  an  hour.  Pour  off  the  juice, 
and  heat,  but  do  not  boil  it.  Serve  immediately,  without 
straining. 

As  the  salt  without  water  will  draw  out  only  a  small 
portion  of  the  juice  from  the  meat,  a  beef  tea  may  be  made 


424  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

from  the  scraps  of  meat  left  by  adding  one  cup  of  cold 
water  to  the  meat,  and  letting  it  stand  two  hours.  Then 
strain  and  heat  the  liquid ;  or  the  scraps  of  meat  may  be 
put  in  the  soup-kettle. 

Economical  Beef  Tea.  —  Cut  one  pound  of  juicy  rump 
steak  into  small  pieces,  and  add  one  cup  of  cold  water. 
Let  it  stand  in  a  covered  bowl  several  hours.  When 
ready  to  serve,  squeeze  the  meat  and  put  it  into  another 
bowl.  Strain  the  juice  already  obtained,  add  salt  to  taste, 
and  heat  it  just  enough  to  be  palatable,  but  not  enough  to 
curdle  it.  Serve  at  once,  while  hot.  If  it  be  heated  over 
the  fire,  stir  constantly,  and  take  it  off  the  moment  it  looks 
thick  and  is  hot ;  or  heat  it  carefully  over  hot  water.  Add 
another  cup  of  cold  water  to  the  scraps  of  meat,  and  soak 
again.  Often  the  third  cup  of  tea  may  be  obtained  from 
the  same  meat.  This  is  excellent  for  hard-working  people 
to  take,  in  times  of  great  exhaustion,  before  a  hearty  meal. 
It  is  one  of  the  best  and  most  easily  prepared  forms  of 
soup  or  meat  tea. 

Dr.  Mitchell's  Beef  Tea.  —  One  pound  of  lean  beef,  cut 
fine  ;  add  one  pint  of  cold  water  and  five  drops  of  muri- 
atic acid.  Put  into  a  glass  jar.  Place  the  jar  in  a  pan  of 
water  at  110°,  and  keep  it  at  that  temperature  for  two 
hours.  Then  strain  through  thick  muslin  until  the  meat 
is  dry,  or  press  the  juice  out  by  squeezing.  The  acid 
makes  the  tea  agreeable  to  a  patient  with  fever,  and  also 
aids  in  drawing  out  the  juices  of  the  meat. 

Haw  Beef  Sandwiches.  —  Scrape  fine  a  small  piece  of 
fresh,  juicy,  tender,  raw  beef.  Season  highly  with  salt 
and  pepper..  Spread  it  on  thin  slices  of  bread,  put  them 
together  like  a  sandwich,  and  cut  into  small  squares  or 
diamonds.  This  will  often  tempt  a  patient  who  could  not 
otherwise  take  raw  meat.  The  sandwiches  are  sometimes 
made  more  palatable  by  toasting  them  slightly. 

Eggnog.  — ~  Beat  the  yollc  of  one  egg ;  add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  sugar,  and  beat  to  a  cream.  Add  one  table- 
spoonful  of  wine  or  brandy,  and  half  a  cup  of  milk.  Beat 
the  white  of  the  egg  to  a  froth,  and  stir  in  lightly.  Omit 


Beef  Tea.  425 


the  milk  when  more  condensed  nourishment  is  required, 
or  the  wine,  if  not  approved  by  the  physician.  It  is  more 
palatable  when  made  with  the  milk.  Whipped  cream  may 
be  substituted  for  the  milk.  In  many  cases  it  is  desirable 
not  to  have  the  white  beaten  to  a  froth,  as  it  causes  wind 
in  the  stomach. 

Portable  Beef  Tea.  —  Two  pounds  of  beef,  cut  fine, 
and  half  a  box  of  gelatine.  Soak  together  in  one  pint  of 
cold  water  one  hour,  squeezing  often.  Heat  to  nearly  the 
boiling-point.  Strain,  pressing  all  the  juice  from  the  meat, 
fill  a  glass  jar  with  the  juice,  place  the  jar  in  water, 
and  heat  till  the  water  outside  the  jar  boils.  Seal  while 
hot.  Dissolve  two  teaspoonfuls  of  the  above  prepara- 
tion in  half  a  cup  of  boiling  water,  add  a  few  grains  of 
salt,  and  serve  at  once.  A  convenient  form  of  food  for 
travellers. 

Broiled  Beef  Pulp.  —  Scrape  raw  beef  to  a  pulp,  make 
it  into  small  cakes,  and  broil  as  steak.  Season  with  salt 
and  a  few  grains  of  cayenne  pepper,  and  serve  hot. 

Egg  Tea  and  Coffee.  —  Beat  the  yolk  of  one  egg ;  add 
one  tablespoonful  of  sugar,  and  beat  to  a  cream  ;  add  one 
cup  of  tea  or  coffee,  either  hot  or  cold,  and  half  a  cup  of 
cream.  Stir  in  lighth*  the  beaten  white  of  the  egg,  and 
serve  at  once. 

Egy  and  Beef  Tea  —  Add  one  cup  of  hot  beef  tea  to 
the  egg,  beaten  as  above. 

Dishes  for  Convalescence. 

When  the  crisis  of  disease  is  past,  the  system  needs 
gradual  but  complete  nutrition,  and  the  appetite  is  clamor- 
ous, fickle,  or  perhaps  altogether  wanting.  Then  is  the 
time  most  critical  for  the  patient,  and  most  trying  to  the 
tact,  skill,  and  patience  of  the  nurse.  Many  a  person  has 
been  carried  safely  through  a  long  and  distressing  illness," 
only  to  succumb  at  last  to  injudicious  feeding,  because  of 
the  nurse's  ignorance  or  his  own  indiscretion.  When  solid 
food  can  be  safely  given,  the  patient  may  take  it  in  any  of 
the  forms  given  in  the  preceding  rules. 


426  Tlu  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  following  dishes  may  also  be  used :  broiled  squab, 
venison,  chicken,  chop,  steak,  salmon,  chicken  panada, 
boiled  halibut,  roast  beef,  mutton,  cream  toast,  eggs,  and 
oysters  (except  when  especially  forbidden  by  the  physi- 
cian), sweetbreads,  baked  potatoes,  asparagus,  onions, 
macaroni,  custards,  Charlotte  Russe,  snow  pudding,  ice- 
cream, sherbet,  blanc-mange,  Bavarian  cream,  sponge  cake, 
simple  puddings,  stewed  fruits,  and  many  others,  —  receipts 
for  which  will  be  found  as  indicated  in  the  table  of  lessons 
in  the  Nurse's  Course. 

Broiling  for  the  Invalid  (Broiled  Steak  or  Venison).  — 
Wipe  with  a  clean  wet  cloth.  Grease  the  gridiron  with  a 
bit  of  the  fat.  Broil  over  a  clear  fire,  turning  as  often  as 
you  can  count  ten.  Cook  four  minutes  if  the  steak  be 
about  one  inch  thick  ;  not  longer,  as  further  cooking  dries 
up  the  juices  and  destroys  some  of  the  nutritive  qualities. 
Be  careful  to  serve  on  a  hot  platter,  and  season  with  salt, 
and  with  pepper  and  butter  if  approved.  Birds,  chicken 
breasts,  fish,  and  chops  are  better  when  seasoned,  and 
wrapped  in  buttered  paper,  and  then  broiled,  as  this  pre- 
vents them  from  burning  or  becoming  too  dry.  Birds,  fish, 
and  chops  are  better,  and  more  conveniently  eaten,  if  boned 
before  broiling. 

Broiled  Steak,  JVo.  2.  —  Broil  half  a  pound  of  round 
steak  and  one  slice  of  tenderloin.  With  a  meat  or  lemon 
squeezer  squeeze  the  juice  from  the  round  over  the  tender- 
loin. Season,  and  serve  hot. 

Chicken  Panada.  —  One  cup  of  cold  roasted  or  boiled 
chicken,  pounded  to  a  paste.  Add  half  a  cup  of  stale 
bread  crumbs,  and  enough  boiling  chicken  liquor  to  make 
it  a  thick  gruel.  Salt  to  taste.  Boil  one  minute,  and 
serve  hot.  When  the  chicken  has  been  roasted,  boil  the 
bones  to  obtain  the  liquor. 

Chicken  Custard.  —  Scald  together  one  cup  of  strong 
chicken  stock  and  one  cup  of  cream.  Pour  it  over  the 
well-beaten  yolks  of  three  eggs,  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler 
till  slightly  thickened.  Salt  to  taste,  and  serve  cool  in 
custard  cups. 


Invalid  Cookery.  42  J 


Crackers  and  Orange  Marmalade.  — Toast  three  crack- 
ers slightly.  Dip  them  quickly  into  boiling  salted  water. 
Spread  with  a  little  butter,  and  put  a  layer  of  orange  mar- 
malade, or  any  other  jelly  or  preserve,  between  them.  Set 
them  in  the  oven  a  few  minutes  before  serving. 

Racahout  des  Arabes.     (Mrs.  Devercux.) 

%  pound  best  French  chocolate.     I       %  pound  arrowroot. 

1  pound  rice  flour.  j*2  pound  loaf  sugar,  sifted. 

These  materials  are  to  be  thoroughly  mixed  and  rubbed 
together.  A  dessert  spoonful  of  this  mixture  should  be 
slightty  wet  with  milk  or  water,  then  stirred  into  one  pint 
of  boiling  milk,  and  boiled  five  minutes.  This  is  excellent 
food  for  invalids  or  convalescents.  Serve  hot,  as  a  bever- 
age ;  or  make  much  thicker,  to  be  eaten  cold  as  a  delicate 
pudding. 

Laban.  (Miss  Parloa. )  —  One  quart  of  new  milk,  into 
which  stir  one  tdblespoonful  of  yeast.  Let  it  stand  in  a 
cool  place  to  harden,  which  will  take  from  three  to  twenty- 
four  hours.  When  hard,  take  a  tdblespoonful  of  the  mix- 
ture, and  stir  it  into  a  quart  of  new  milk,  and  set  away  to 
harden.  This  is  "  Laban."  It  should  be  eaten  with  sugar 
and  cream.  If  a  constant  supply  be  needed,  reserve  one 
tablespoonful  each  day  for  the  next  preparation.  This  re- 
ceipt is  furnished  by  a  lady  who  obtained  it  in  Syria,  and 
who  advises  a  second  or  a  third  trial  if  the  first  attempt  be 
unsuccessful.  The  dish  is  often  palatable  when  the  stomach 
is  too  weak  for  almost  any  other  solid  food.  This  is  similar 
to  Koumiss,  or  fermented  mare's  milk. 

Ash  Cake.  (Mrs.  Henderson.)  — Wet  corn  meal,  salted 
to  taste,  with  enough  cold  water  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Let 
it  stand  half  an  hour,  or  longer.  Mould  into  a  cake  one  or 
two  inches  thick,  as  }TOU  prefer.  Place  it  on  a  clean  spot 
on  the  hearth,  and  cover  with  wood  ashes.  Bake  from 
half  to  three  quarters  of  an  hour.  Wipe  before  eating. 
The  alkaline  properties  left  by  the  ashes  in  the  crust  render 
it  especially  good  for  dyspeptics  with  an  acid  stomach. 


428  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Gluten  Gems. 


v  i 

^»      2  cups  gluten. 

%  teaspoonf  ul  salt. 

2  teaspoonfuls  baking-powder. 


2  tablespoonfuls  sugar. 

legg. 

2  cups  water  or  milk. 


Bake  in  very  hot  buttered  gem  pans,  in  a  hot  oven,  half 
an  hour. 

Diet  for  Infants  and  Young  Children. 

Let  very  young  children  have  mother's  milk  above  every- 
thing else  ;  but  if  this  be  impossible,  dissolve  one  ounce  of 
sugar  of  milk  or  loaf  sugar  in  three  fourths  of  a  pint  of 
boiling  water,  and  mix,  as  required  for  use,  with  an  equal 
quantity  of  fresh  cow's  milk.  Give  it,  slight!}7  warm, 
from  a  sweet,  clean  bottle.  Sugar  of  milk  is  quite  ex- 
pensive, but  it  is  very  much  better  for  an  infant  than  cane 
sugar. 

Teething  children  should  have  the  milk  from  but  one 
cow ;  the  cow  should  not  be  fed  on  green  corn  nor  sour 
apples,  as  these  produce  acidity  in  the  milk.  A  little 
thin,  well-boiled  oatmeal,  or  farina  gruel,  may  be  added 
to  the  milk. 

For  summer  complaint,  use  scalded  (not  boiled)  milk, 
prepared  flour,  roasted  rice,  boiled,  mashed,  and  thinned 
with  milk  ;  also  rice  jelly  or  barley  gruel.  Avoid  all  purely 
starchy  gruels,  like  arrowroot,  sago,  and  cornstarch,  upon 
which  many  children  are  fed  to  death. 

For  constipation,  a  little  salt  added  to  cow's  milk  is 
often  beneficial ;  also  gruel  made  from  prepared  corn  meal 
and  wheat  flour,  and  oatmeal  gruel.  For  older  children 
use  oatmeal,  hominy  or  farina  mush,  and  ripe  fruit. 

Prepared  Flour  (for  Infants} .  —  Tie  one  .pint  of 
flour  in  a  stout  cloth,  put  it  into  boiling  water,  and  let  it 
boil  three  hours.  Turn  out  the  flour  ball,  and  scrape  off 
the  gluten  which  will  be  found  in  a  mass  on  the  outside  of 
the  ball  and  is  not  desirable.  The  inside  will  prove  a  dry 
powder,  which  is  very  astringent.  Grate  a  tablespoonful 
of  this  powder  from  the  ball  as  wanted ;  wet  it  in  cold 


Diet  for  Children.  429 

milk  or  water,  "and  stir  it  into  one  cup  of  boiling  milk. 
Boil  five  minutes.  Add  a  little  salt. 

This  is  excellent  for  teething  children.  If  they  be 
troubled  with  constipation,  use  one  quarter  part  corn 
meal  and  three  quarters  wheat  flour,  boil  as  above,  and 
stir  some  of  the  grated  lump  into  boiling  cream  and  water, 
using  one  part  cream  to  six  parts  water.  For  an  infant 
the  preparation  should  be  thin  enough  to  be  taken  from  a 
bottle.  Flour,  after  being  cooked  in  this  way  and  then 
reduced  to  a  finely  divided  form,  loses  its  adhesive 
quality ;  and  the  particles  are  more  easily  separated  and 
digested. 

Children  and  growing  persons  need  the  most  nutritious 
food,  and  plent}7  of  it  at  regular  intervals ;  but  nothing 
stimulating  nor  exciting.  The}'  should  be  given,  and  com- 
pelled to  take,  sufficient  time  for  eating ;  and  should  be 
taught  to  masticate  everything  slowly  and  thoroughly. 
They  should  eat  milk  ;  whole-wheat  and  cornmeal  bread  ; 
oatmeal,  farina,  and  hominy  mush ;  plenty  of  ripe  fruit 
raw,  and  stewed  fruit  sweetened ;  beef,  mutton,  veni- 
son, and  poultry,  either  roasted,  broiled,  or  boiled ;  baked 
potatoes,  and  asparagus ;  green  peas,  beans,  and  corn,  if 
every  hull  be  first  broken  or  cut ;  eggs,  omelets,  and  cus- 
tards ;  plain  sponge  cake ;  ice-cream,  if  not  too  hard 
and  cold,  and  eaten  slowly ;  simple  fruit  and  bread 
puddings ;  fruit,  tapioca,  and  farina ;  plain  gingerbread 
and  molasses  cookies ;  whole-wheat  cookies  and  wafers. 
Children  should  avoid  hot  bread  and  griddle-cakes ; 
fried  meats  or  cakes  or  doughnuts ;  highly  seasoned 
food ;  rich  gravies ;  rich  pastry  and  cake ;  pickles,  pre- 
serves, all  stimulants  such  as  tea  or  coffee ;  raisins,  un- 
less cooked  three  hours  and  stoned  ;  sago,  arrowroot,  and 
other  purely  starchy  foods,  except  when  combined  with 
milk,  eggs,  or  fruit,  and  eaten  with  sugar  and  cream ;  and 
especiall}'  veal  and  pork.  Veal  is  an  immature  meat,  lack- 
ing in  nourishment ;  and  of  the  free  use  of  pork,  apart 
from  the  question  of  the  trichinae,  a  majority  of  physi- 
cians believe  that  it  is  largely  responsible  for  the  forms  of 


43O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

scrofulous  disease  that  have  so  undermined  the  health  of 
civilized  nations. 

What  are  termed  the  "  fancies"  of  delicate  persons, 
especially  children,  are  often  natural  instincts,  pointing 
out  what  is  beneficial  to  the  system,  or  the  reverse.  All 
children  have  a  fondness  for  sugar,  which  should  be  grati- 
fied in  moderation  rather  than  repressed.  Their  desire  for 
it  is  natural,  else  it  would  not  have  been  placed  in  the  milk 
which  forms  their  only  nourishment  in  infancy.  But  candy, 
rich  preserves,  and  cake  are  not  the  best  form  of  sweets 
for  children.  Pure  block  sugar  or  maple  sugar  is  better 
than  any  form  of  candy.  It  should  never  be  allowed  be- 
tween meals,  but  may  be  given  occasionally  as  a  part  of 
the  dessert.  The  habit  of  munching  candy  between  meals 
destroys  the  appetite,  disturbs  the  digestion,  and  is  the 
cause  of  much  illness  among  children.  Children  troubled 
with  worms  should  avoid  sugar,  preserves,  and  green 
vegetables. 

Milk  should  enter  large!}7  into  the  diet  of  children.  It  con- 
tains caseine,  or  flesh-forming  material ;  cream  and  sugar, 
which  are  heat  producers ;  mineral  salts,  for  the  bony 
structure  ;  and  water,  as  a  solvent  for  all  the  other  materials 
necessary  in  nutrition.  It  should  be  used  with  discretion, 
however ;  not  drunk  immoderately,  but  taken  slowly  as 
food  after  the  pattern  given  by  nature.  Milk  as  taken  is 
a  fluid ;  but  as  soon  as  it  meets  the  acid  of  the  gastric 
juice,  it  is  changed  to  a  soft,  curdy,  cheese-like  substance, 
and  then  must  be  digested,  and  the  stomach  is  overtasked 
if  too  much  be  taken  at  once.  A  large  glass  of  milk  swal- 
lowed suddenly  will  form  in  the  stomach  a  lump  of  dense, 
cheesy  curd,  which  may  even  prove  fatal  to  a  weak  stomach. 
Under  the  action  of  the  stomach  this  cheesy  mass  will  turn 
over  and  over  like  a  heavy  weight ;  and  as  the  gastric  juice 
can  only  attack  its  surface,  it  digests  very  slowly.  But 
this  same  milk,  taken  slowly,  or  with  dry  toast,  light  rolls, 
or  soft  dry  porridge,  forms  a  porous  lump  through  which  the 
gastric  juice  can  easily  pass,  and  which  breaks  up  every 
tuce  the  stomach  turns  it  over.  Milk  should  be  slightly 


Diet  for  Invalids.  43 1 

salted,   and  eaten   with  bread  stuffs  or  sipped  by  the 
spoonful. 

Cow's  milk  produces  less  heat  than  human  milk ;  a  child 
would  grow  thin  upon  it  unless  a  little  sugar  were  added. 
"NVheat  flour  has  such  an  excess  of  heat-producing  mate- 
rial as  would  fatten  a  child  unduly,  and  should  have  cow's 
milk  added  to  it  to  reduce  its  fattening  power. 

Hints  on  Diet  for  Invalids. 

Vanilla  should  not  be  used  as  a  flavoring  in  food  for 
sick  people.  It  is  medicinal ;  and  all  medicines  are  more 
or  less  poisonous,  and  are  not  to  be  taken  as  food. 

Pepper  is  allowable  when  a  slight  stimulant  is  needed. 
It  should  be  white  or  cayenne  pepper,  as  these  are  less  irri- 
tating than  black  pepper. 

Boiled  onions  are  soothing  to  the  mucous  membrane.  \ 
In  inflammation  of  the  stomach  they   are   often   helpful 
when  a  piece  of  white  bread  could  not  be  digested. 

Broiled  or  roasted  squab,  venison,  chicken,  mutton, 
and  beef,  in  the  order  given,  are  the  most  easily  assim- 
ilated meats. 

Game,  being  rich  in  phosphates,  is  valuable  for  invalids.    I 

Broiled  bacon,  dusted  with  cayenne,  is  an  easily  digested 
form  of  fat. 

Tomatoes  as  an  article  of  diet  are  considered  by  many 
physicians  a  remedy  for  dyspepsia  and  indigestion. 

Watery,  green,  or  diseased  potatoes  should  never  be 
eaten.     If  there  be  only  a  small  spot  of  decay,  it  taints   / 
the  whole  potato.      Young  potatoes  are  very  indigestible. 

Eggs  for  sick  people  should  be  taken  raw.  When 
beaten  with  cold  milk,  they  are  more  quickly  absorbed.  If 
cooked,  they  should  be  either  very  soft,  or  hard  enough  to  be 
easily  crumbled  to  a  powder,  as  in  any  intermediate  stage 
the  albumen  is  tough  instead  of  brittle,  and  being  tough  is 
insoluble  by  the  gastric  juice  ;  these  insoluble  portions  are 
often  delayed  in  the  stomach  or  intestines  till  they  putrefy, 
and  the  sulphuretted  hydrogen  and  ammonia  evolved  be- 
come poisonous  to  the  intestinal  crjial. 


432  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Soups  which  have  in  them  cream  or  milk  are  better  for 
invalids  than  those  rich  in  gelatine.  Cream  of  Celery 
and  Potage  a  la  Eeine  are  especially  suitable.  Strong 
Bouillon  is  adapted  to  those  suffering  from  hemorrhoids 
or  any  disease  of  the  rectum,  as  there  is  no  solid  waste. 

Dyspeptics  should  avoid  anything  which  they  (not 
others)  cannot  digest.  There  are  so  many  causes  for  and 
forms  of  dyspepsia,  that  it  is  impossible  to  prescribe  one 
and  the  same  diet  for  all.  Nothing  is  more  disagreeable 
or  useless  than  to  be  cautioned  against  eating  this  or  that, 
because  your  neighbor  "So-and-so"  cannot  eat  such 
things.  If  we  would  all  study  the  nature  and  digestion  of 
food,  and  remember  that  air  and  exercise  are  as  essential 
as  food  in  promoting  good  health,  we  could  easily  decide 
upon  the  diet  best  suited  to  our  individual  needs. 

The  diabetic  should  abstain  from  sugar  and  anything 
which  is  converted  into  sugar  in  digestion,  such  as  all 
starchy  foods,  —  fine  wheat  flour,  rice,  macaroni,  tapioca, 
liver,  potatoes,  beets,  carrots,  turnips,  parsnips,  peas, 
beans,  very  old  cheese,  sweet  omelets,  custards,  jellies, 
starchy  nuts,  sweet  sauces,  wine>  and  liquors.  He  may 
eat  oysters,  all  kinds  of  fish,  meat,  poultry,  and  game, 
soups  without  any  starchy  thickening,  lettuce,  cucumbers, 
watercresses,  dandelions,  young  onions,  cold  slaw,  olives, 
cauliflower,  spinach,  cabbage,  string  beans,  ripe  fruit  of 
all  kinds  without  sugar,  cream,  butter,  milk  sparingly, 
gluten,  flour,  oily  nuts  freely  salted,  eggs,  coffee,  and 
cocoa. 

The  corpulent  should  abstain  from  fat  as  well  as  sugar 
and  starch.  A  diet  of  whole- wheat,  milk,  vegetables, 
fruits,  and  lean  meat  will  produce  only  a  normal  amount  01 
fatness ;  while  an  excess  of  sweets,  acids,  spices 
shortening  keeps  the  system  in  an  unhealthful  condition. 

Those  who  can  digest  fine  flour,  pastry,  sugar,  and 
become  loaded  with  fat,  but  are  neither  strong  nor  vigorous 
Thin  people  with  weak  digestion  should  also  avoid  suc\ 
food ;  for  thin  people  are  often  kept  thin  by  the  same  food 
which  makes  others  fat.     If  they  cannot  digest  the  starch, 


Diet  for  the   Gouty ,  etc.  433 

butter,  and  fine  flour,  the  system  is  kept  in  a  feverish,  dys-  • 
peptic  state  ;  the}'  become  nervous  or  go  into  consumption 
for  no  other  reason  than  that  life  is  burned  out  by  a  diet 
which  only  feeds  the  fire  and  does  not  renew  the  tissues. 
"  Men  dig  their  graves  with  their  teeth;  not  only  by 
drinking  whiskey  and  using  tobacco,  but  by  eating  food 
loaded  down  with  inflammatory  materials." 

The  bilious  and  gouty  should  eat  sparingly  of  brown  -. 
meats,  cheese,  eggs,  beans,  peas,  or  food  which  is  rich  in 
albuminoids.  A  certain  amount  of  albuminoid  or  nitro- 
genized  food  is  requisite  for  tissue  growth  and  qepair ; 
more  being  required  for  growing  persons  and  the  conva- 
lescent than  for  health}'  adults.  Most  Americans  are  in- 
clined to  eat  more  albuminoid  food  than  is  required.  It 
gives  a  sensation  of  energ}',  of  being  equal  to  work,  which 
is  ver}'  pleasant.  But  when  we  have  "  too  much  of  a  good 
thing,"  more  than  is  needed  for  repair  of  tissue,  this  sur- 
plus of  albuminous  material  is  imperfectly  oxidized,  the 
blood  is  laden  with  waste  r  and  biliousness  or  gout  is  the 
result.  Fish  gives  less  albuminoid  waste  than  meat. 

People  who  are  inclined  to  constipation  should  eat  x 
whole-wheat,  rye,  and  corn  bread  and  mushes,  ripe  fruit, 
berries,  green  corn,  vegetables,  beef,  mutton,  poultry, 
milk,  cream,  and  butter ;  and  should  avoid  fried  or  greasy 
food,  hot  bread,  rich  cake,  veal,  pork,  or  anything  whic'- 
has  so  much  woody  fibre  or  cellulose  ohat  it  only  irritates 
the  digestive  canal,  such  as  the  outer  bran  of  wheat,  coarse 
oatmeal,  etc. 

Those  with  consumptive  tendencies  should  eat  whole 
some,  easily  digested  and  assimilated  food,  with  plenty  of 
fat,  —  not  in  the  indigestible  form  that  it  takes  when 
mixed  with  starch,  but  as  in  cream,  sweet  butter,  fat  of 
roast  or  boiled  meat,  the  fat,  but  not  the  lean,  of  ham  and 
corned  beef,  oil,  salads,  corn-meal,  oatmeal,  etc. 

The  diet  of  people  who  are  well  slnuld  be  governed 
largely  by  their  age,  occupation,  and  exercise.  Adults 
should  have  a  variety  of  wholesome  food  cooked  in  different 
ways.  Aged  people  should  have  a  diet  more  like  that  of 

28 


434  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

children.  If  the  occupation  tax  the  muscular  strength, 
use  muscle-making  food  ;  not  wholly  meat,  as  many  labor- 
ing people  are  inclined  to  think,  but  grains,  peas,  beans, 
cabbage,  milk,  cheese,  eggs,  whole- wheat  bread,  and 
chocolate,  with  a  small  amount  of  beef,  mutton,  and 
poultiy.  Students  and  brain-workers  need  more  of  brain- 
producing  and  less  of  muscle-making  food.  Brain  food 
must  contain  phosphorus,  which  is  found  largely  in  oysters, 
eggs,  fish,  lean  meat,  wheat,  peas,  beans,  and  fruit.  Those 
who  are  engaged  in  sedentary  occupations,  who  take 
little  exercise  and  live  in  close,  confined  rooms,  should 
eat  only  the  most  easily  digested  food. 

People  who  engage  in  regular  active  labor,  who  take 
plenty  of  exercise  in  the  open  air,  cultivate  a  cheerful, 
happy  disposition,  live  temperately  in  every  way,  and  have 
naturally  strong  digestive  organs,  can  eat  any  kind  of 
wholesome  food  that  has  been  properly  cooked,  and  have 
no  consciousness  of  a  stomach  or  any  visceral  organs  ;  and 
appetite,  unless  previously  impaired,  is  their  best  guide. 
If  the  digestive  organs  be  not  strong  naturally,  such  u 
mode  of  life  as  the  above  will  tend  to  make  them  so,  more 
than  any  amount  of  drugs  or  quack  medicines. 


How  to  Do  It.  435 


MISCELLANEOUS   HINTS. 

To  Chop  Suet.  —  Cut  into  small  pieces  and  remove 
the  membrane.  Sprinkle  with  flour,  and  chop  in  a  cold 
place  to  prevent  its  becoming  soft  and  sticky. 

To  Clean  Currants.  —  Put  them  in  a  squash  strainer, 
and  sprinkle  thickly  with  flour.  Rub  them  well  until  they 
are  separated,  and  the  flour,  grit,  and  fine  stems  have 
passed  through  the  strainer.  Then  place  the  strainer  and 
currants  in  a  pan  of  water,  and  wash  thoroughly.  Lift 
the  strainer  and  currants  together,  and  change  the  water 
till  clear.  Drain  bet\v  ^eh  towels,  and  pick  over  carefully. 
Dry  them  in  a  sunny  place  or  between  towels,  but  do  not 
harden  them  by  putting  them  into  the  oven. 

To  Stone  Raisins.  —  Pour  boiling  water  over  them, 
and  let  them  stand  in  it  five  or  ten  minutes.  Drain,  and 
rub  each  raisin  between  the  thumb  and  finger  till  the  seeds 
come  out  clean,  then  cut  or  tear  apart,  or  chop,  if  wanted 
very  fine. 

Core  Apples  before  paring,  and  there  is  less  danger  of 
their  breaking. 

Egg  Shells.  —  Wash  eggs  as  soon  as  they  come  from 
the  market,  and  then  the  shells  may  be  used  in  clearing 
coffee,  soup,  etc. 

To  JBoil  a  Pudding  in  a  Cloth.  —  Wring  strong  cotton 
cloth  out  of  boiling  water,  and  spread  over  a  bowl. 
Sprinkle  with  flour,  fill  with  the  pudding,  draw  the  cloth 
together,  and  tie  tightly,  then  flour  near  the  opening. 
Plunge  into  boiling  water,  and  keep  the  water  boiling 
during  the  time  for  cooking.  Add  boiling  water  as  needed, 
and  replenish  the  fire  often. 

Meringues  should  be  put  on  puddings  after  they  are 
slightly  cool,  as,  if  the  pudding  be  hot,  the  egg  will  liquefy. 


436  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Moulds  should  be  greased  for  any  steamed  mixture ; 
wet  in  cold  water  for  jelly ,  creams,  etc.  ;  and  neither  wet 
nor  greased  if  to  be  lined  with  cake.  A  mould  of  jelly 
will  cool  quicker  if  placed  in  a  pan  of  ice  water  or  snow 
than  in  the  ice-chest. 

Candied  or  Crystallized  Fruit  or  Nuts.  (Mrs.  Camp- 
bell) —  Boil  one  cup  of  granulated  sugar  and  one  cup  of 
boiling  water  together  for  half  an  hour.  Then  dip  the 
point  of  a  skewer  into  the  syrup  and  then  into  cold  water. 
If  the  thread  formed  break  off  brittle,  the  syrup  is  ready. 
The  syrup  must  never  be  stirred,  and  must  boil  slowly, 
not  furiously.  When  done,  set  the  saucepan  in  boiling 
water,  or  pour  the  syrup  into  a  bowl  placed  in  hot  water, 
to  keep  the  syrup  from  candying.  Take  the  prepared 
fruit  or  nuts  on  the  point  of  a  large  needle  or  fine  skewer, 
dip  them  into  the  syrup,  and  then  lay  them  on  a  dish, 
which  has  been  lightly  buttered  or  oiled  ;  or  string  them 
on  a  thread,  and  after  dipping  in  the  s}Tup  suspend  them 
by  the  thread.  When  oranges  are  used,  divide  them  into 
eighths,  and  wipe  all  moisture.  Cherries  should  be  stoned. 
English  walnuts  are  especially  nice  prepared  in  this  way. 

To  Blanch  Almonds  and  other  Nuts.  —  Remove  the 
shells,  cover  with  boiling  water,  and  let  them  stand  till  the 
dark  skin  will  rub  off  easily.  Then  put  them  in  cold 
water,  rub  off  the  skins,  and  dry  between  towels. 

Corned  Meat.  —  Fresh  meat  may  be  kept  some  time  by 
corning  it  slightly.  Wipe  carefully,  and  remove  any  parts 
that  are  not  sweet  and  fresh,  then  rub  all  over  thickly 
with  salt.  Or  make  a  brine  with  rock  salt  and  cold  water  ; 
use  salt  enough  to  float  the  meat,  then  cover,  and  put 
a  heavy  weight  on  the  cover  to  keep  the  meat  under  the 
brine.  Three  days'  time  is  sufficient  for  corned  meat. 

To  Make  Paper  Boxes.  —  These  can  be  obtained,  in  a 
variety  of  forms,  from  the  confectioner ;  but  plain  ones 
may  be  made  in  this  way.  Take  a  piece  of  stiff  white 
paper,  five  inches  square.  Find  the  centre  of  the  square 
by  folding  two  opposite  corners  together  and  creasing 
lightly  in  the  middle,  then  open  and  fold  the  other  two  in 


How  to  Do  It.  437 


the  same  way.  Fold  the  two  sides  over  till  they  meet  in 
the  centre,  then  fold  the  two  ends.  Open,  and  cut  in  the 
fold  down  to  the  line  at  each  end,  but  not  on  the  side. 
Fold  the  sides  over  on  the  outside  about  one  quarter  of  an 
inch ;  then  fold  the  middle  part  of  the  end  in  the  same 
way.  Then  turn  the  ends  of  the  side  pieces  round  behind 
the  end,  and  let  them  meet  in  the  middle,  and  fold  the 
edge  of  the  end  over  them.  Fasten  the  ends  with  a  few 
stitches  or  with  paste.  A  border  of  fancy  perforated  paper 
may  be  pasted  on  the  edge. 

A  Pastry  Bag.  —  One  third  of  a  yard  of  yard-wide 
rubber  sheeting  will  make  three  bags  one  foot  square. 
Fold  two  opposite  corners  together,  stitch  along  the  edge, 
and  make  a  triangular  bag.  Cut  off  at  the  point  to  make 
an  opening  large  enough  to  insert  the  end  of  a  tin  tube. 
It  is  convenient  to  have  three  bags,  with  openings  of 
different  sizes,  —  one  for  eclairs,  one  for  lady  fingers,  and 
one  for  frosting.  The  tube  for  eclairs  is  three  fourths  of 
an  inch  wide  at  the  small  end ;  that  for  lady  fingers,  three 
eighths  of  an  inch  ;  and  the  frosting  tubes,  of  various  sizes, 
some  of  them  quite  small.  Fit  the  tube  into  the  opening, 
and  fill  the  bag  with  the  mixture.  Draw  the  edges  together, 
and  twist  the  top  tightly  to  keep  out  the  air.  Hold  the 
bag  in  the  left  hand,  with  the  tube  close  to  the  place  where 
the  mixture  is  to  be  spread  ;  press  with  the  right,  and  guide 
the  mixture  into  any  shape  desired.  A  slight  pressure  is 
sufficient.  When  no  longer  needed,  wash  the  bags  in  cold 
(never  in  hot)  water,  and  dry  carefully. 

Vanilla  Sugar.  —  One  pound  of  lump  sugar  and  one 
ounce  of  Mexican  vanilla  beans.  Cut  the  beans  in  small 
pieces,  and  pound  in  a  mortar,  with  the  sugar,  till  fine 
like  flour.  Sift  through  a  fine  strainer,  pound  the  remain- 
der again,  and  sift  till  all  is  fine.  Keep  in  a  tightly 
corked  bottle.  Use  a  tablespoonful  for  a  quart  of  ice- 
cream. Or  cut  the  beans  into  small  pieces,  and  split  them 
that  the  seeds  may  be  exposed.  Put  an  ounce  of  the 
beans  in  a  small  jar  with  a  pound  of  sugar.  Sift  the 
sugar  as  required,  and  use  as  above ;  add  more  sugar, 


438  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

keep  closely  covered,  and  use  as  long  as  there  is  any  flavor 
in  the  sugar. 

Canned  Fruit  Juices.  —  Fruit  juices  may  be  kept  for 
a  long  time  by  canning  the  same  as  whole  fruit.  They 
are  convenient  for  water  ices  and  summer  beverages. 
Mash  the  fruit,  and  rub  the  pulp  through  a  fine  sieve. 
Mix  about  three  pounds  of  sugar  with  one  quart  of  fruit 
juice  and  pulp.  Fill  Mason's  jars  with  the  s}TUp,  cover, 
and  place  in  a  heater  with  cold  water  to  come  nearly  tc 
the  top  of  the  jar.  Let  the  water  boil  half  an  hour,  then 
fill  each  jar  to  the  brim,  seal,  and  cool  in  the  water. 

To  Mould  Ice  Cream.  — Ice  cream  is  more  attractive, 
when  served,  if  moulded,  and  if  one  has  no  fancy  moulds, 
the  freezer  can  will  always  give  the  round  shape.  If 
moulds  are  used,  the  cream  should  be  packed  into  them 
closely,  filling  every  crevice.  The  cover  should  always  fit 
over  and  not  into  the  mould.  Bind  a  buttered  cloth 
round  the  edge  of  the  cover,  or  lay  a  buttered  paper  over 
the  top  of  the  cream,  or  coat  the  edge  with  butter  or 
melted  suet  to  fill  all  the  crevices  and  keep  out  the  salt 
water.  Bury  the  moulds  in  ice  and  salt ;  a  little  less  salt 
than  is  used  in  freezing.  Cover  the  ice  with  wet  carpet- 
ing. The  cream  will  keep  hard  several  hours,  but  it  is  well 
to  examine  it  occasionally,  and  when  the  mould  floats, 
draw  off  the  water  and  add  more  ice  and  salt.  When 
ready  to  serve,  wash  off  the  butter  and  salt  from  the 
mould,  lift  off  the  cover  and  paper,  and  turn  the  mould 
over  a  platter.  The  warmth  of  the  room  will  soon  melt 
the  cream  sufficiently  for  the  mould  to  be  lifted ;  if  not, 
then  lay  a  hot  cloth  on  the  mould,  or  dip  the  mould  quickly 
in  warm  water.  Salt  water  cannot  get  into  the  mould  if 
full,  but  often  when  cream  is  left  over  and  you  replace  it 
in  the  mould  only  partially  filled,  the  water  will  get  in. 

To  keep  Lettuce,  Celery,  Watercress,  etc.  —  Wash  them 
and  nip  off  any  part  that  shows  signs  of  decay.  Rinse 
each  leaf  separately  to  be  sure  it  is  free  from  grit,  lay 
the  inner  leaves,  such  as  may  be  used  for  a  salad  in 
regular  order  in  a  wet  napkin,  and  put  them  away  in  a 
cold  place.  Break  up  the  tough  outside  leaves,  and  cook 
them  until  tender  in  boiling  water,  as  you  do  any  greens r 


The  Dining-Room.  439 


THE   DINING-ROOM. 

«        . 

THE  subjects  of  "  The  Arrangement  of  the  Table/ 
"  Dinner-Giving,"  and  "Bills  of  Fare"  have  been  fully 
treated  in  other  cook  books,  and  it  would  be  difficult  to 
add  to  what  has  already  been  said.  Hints  on  garnishing, 
carving,  and  appropriate  combinations  of  dishes  have  been 
given  in  connection  with  many  of  these  receipts  ;  and  want 
of  space  forbids  anything  more  than  some  general  rules. 

Above  all  things,  attempt  nothing  in  style  or  expense 
be}"ond  what  you  can  well  afford.  There  is  no  more  paltry 
ambition,  nothing  that  contains  more  certainly  the  seeds  of 
unhappiness  and  disaster,  than  such  a  desire  for  "empty 
show,"  which  all  sensible  people  must  despise. 

Let  your  breakfasts  be  of  wholesome  and  substantial 
food.  The  system  needs  nourishment  in  the  morning  after 
the  long,  unbroken  fast  of  the  night.  The  practice  of  tak- 
ing only  a  cup  of  tea  or  coffee  with  hot  biscuit,  and  possi- 
bly pie  or  doughnuts,  gives  a  very  poor  foundation  for  the 
morning's  labor,  which  is  and  should  be  the  hard  labor  of 
the  day.  Milk,  coffee,  or  chocolate,  mushes,  fruits,  pota- 
toes or  bread,  meat,  fish,  or  eggs,  in  some  of  their  simple 
and  digestible  combinations  should  form  the  basis  of  the 
breakfast.  The  morning  meal  should  be  taken  as  soon  as 
possible  after  rising.  Any  prolonged  bodily  exertion  or 
exposure  to  the  early  morning  air,  before  the  stomach  is 
fortified  by  food,  is  now  condemned  by  the  majority  of 
physicians. 

The  midday  and  evening  meal  may  vary  with  the  occu- 
pations and  habits  of  the  family ;  but  a  regular  hour  for 
eating  should  be  observed,  whether  the  more  substantial 
meal  come  at  noon  or  night ;  and  if  at  night  sufficient  time 
should  be  allowed  for  digestion  to  be  completed  before 


44O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

sleeping.  A  supper  of  cold  bread  and  cake  or  pie  is 
neither  appetizing  nor  satisfying  for  those  who  have  been 
hard  at  work  through  the  day.  u  Something  warm  or 
heart}",  something  for  a  relish,"  every  man  craves  for 
supper.  Toast,  brewis,  warm  tea-cakes,  cocoa,  oatmeal, 
warmed-over  potatoes,  cold  meat,  made  dishes,  eggs, 
oysters,  etc.,  are  far  better  than  the  common  supper  of 
sweets. 

Every  one  may  have  clean,  if  not  fine,  table  linen.  An 
under  covering  of  cotton  flannel  or  felt  made  to  fit  the 
table  is  desirable,  as  it  prevents  noise,  and  a  linen  cloth 
may  be  laid  over  it  more  smoothly  than  over  the  bare  table. 
Thin  tablecloths  remain  fresh  longer  if  stiffened  slightly 
with  very  thin  starch,  but  heav}r  damask  requires  no  stif- 
fening. Keep  the  cloths  in  a  drawer  large  enough  to  hold 
them  without  much  folding.  Avoid  making  many  folds  in 
ironing,  and  in  handling  them  fold  always  in  the  creases. 
In  laying  the  cloth,  place  the  centre  of  it  in  the  centre  of 
the  table,  and  have  the  folds  straight  with  the  edges  of  the 
table.  Crease  the  cloth  round  the  edge  of  the  table,  that 
it  may  drape  smoothly. 

Lay  a  plate,  right  side  up,  for  each  person.  If  the  table 
be  long,  place  one  plate  at  each  end,  and  those  at  the  sides 
opposite  each  other.  Place  the  napkin  at  the  left  of  the 
plate,  and  at  dinner  place  a  piece  of  bread  between  the 
folds  of  the  napkin.  Place  the  knives,  butter  plate,  and 
tumbler  at  the  right  of  each  plate,  the  forks  at  the  left,  and 
the  soup  and  dessert  spoons  in  front,  the  handles  toward 
the  right  hand,  —the  number  of  each  depending  upon  the 
number  of  courses.  The  fruit  dish  or  flowers  should  occupy 
the  centre  of  the  table ;  the  salt  and  pepper,  butter,  jelly, 
pickles,  etc.,  at  the  corners.  Place  the  various  dishes  on 
the  table  in  regular  order,  straight  with  the  table,  or,  if  at 
an  angle,  let  there  be  some  uniformity,  never  helter-skelter. 
The  cups,  plates,  and  dishes  for  hot  food  should  be  heated 
in  hot  water  or  in  a  warming-oven.  Use  a  spoon  to  place 
ice  in  delicate  glasses  or  pitchers  ;  or  put  in  the  water  first, 
and  then  the  ice,  to  avoid  breaking. 


Table  Etiquette.  441 


Do  not  let  the  table  become  disordered  during  the  meal. 
The  dishes,  plates,  etc.,  should  be  removed  noiselessly,  one 
by  one ;  and  never  piled  one  upon  another,  after  the  hasty 
fashion  of  second-class  hotels. 

If  the  serving  be  done  by  the  host  and  hostess,  it  is  more 
convenient  for  them  to  sit  at  the  sides  of  the  table ;  the 
host  serving  the  substantial  dishes,  and  the  hostess  the  tea 
or  coffee,  vegetables  or  entrees,  puddings,  and  the  dessert 
Where  there  are  servants  to  do  the  waiting,  the  host  and 
hostess  may  sit  at  the  ends  of  the  table,  as  there  they  can 
command  a  better  view  of  their  guests,  and  see  that  they 
are  properly  served.  The  hostess  should  serve  the  soup, 
salad,  dessert,  and  coffee  ;  the  host,  the  fish  and  meat ;  and 
the  servants,  the  vegetables  and  entrees. 

At  a  dinner  served  a  la  Russe,  the  fruit  and  flowers  only 
are  placed  upon  the  table,  the  several  courses  being  served 
from  the  side. 

Many  volumes  have  been  written  upon  table  etiquette. 
Some  of  the  suggestions  they  contain  are  practical ;  others 
useless.  What  is  considered  proper  at  one  place  or  time 
is  not  approved  under  other  circumstances ;  and  those 
desirous  of  observing  the  usages  of  good  society  are 
often  sorely  perplexed  to  keep  pace  with  the  variations 
of  fashion.  But  if,  instead  of  following  mere  arbitrary 
rules  from  the  low  standpoint  of  "  style,"  we  would  take 
for  our  guidance  the  best  definition  of  true  politeness  as 
given  by  Dr.  Watts,  —  "  Love  manifested  in  an  easy  and 
graceful  manner,"  —  we  need  never  be  at  a  loss  as  to  "  what 
to  do  and  what  not  to  do."  A  moment's  observation  will 
show  the  strictness  of  etiquette  maintained  in  the  family 
in  which  you  may  be  a  guest,  —  for  instance,  whether  the 
servants  are  expected  to  take  entire  charge  of  serving 
everything,  or  whether  the  family  reserve  to  themselves 
something  of  the  happy  privilege  of  courtesy  and  thought 
for  each  other ;  and  you  may  forget  with  them,  in  the 
mutual  interchange  of  the  proper  attentions,  that  freezing 
formality  which  sometimes  forbids  that  you  should  seem  to 
know  or  care  how  your  neighbor  fares.  "  Think  not  of 


442  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

yourself,  but  of  what  will  contribute  most  to  another's  com- 
fort or  convenience,"  remembering  that  for  the  time  being 
utter  deference  should  be  paid  to  the  evident  arrangement 
of  the  house  at  which  you  are.  This  is  tjie  safest  stand- 
ard for  table  etiquette,  as  well  as  for  good  manners  every- 
where. No  selfish  person  can  ever  be  truly  polite.  Children 
should  be  carefully  trained  in  table  manners  as  soon  as 
they  are  old  enough  to  come  to  the  table,  and  accustomed 
to  perfect  politeness ;  then  there  will  be  no  fear  of  mis- 
haps, nor  special  training  needed  for  "  compan}r,"  nor  any 
awkward  habits  to  be  overcome  in  later  life. 

After  a  meal  brush  up  any  crumbs  that  may  have  fallen, 
lest  they  be  trodden  into  the  carpet.  Collect  the  knives, 
forks,  and  spoons  by  themselves.  Put  any  food  that  ma,y 
be  used  again  on  small  dishes,  never  on  the  dishes  used  in 
serving.  Scrape  the  dishes,  empty  and  rinse  the  cups, 
and  pack  neatly  near  where  they  are  to  be  washed.  Brush 
the  crumbs  from  the  cloth,  instead  of  shaking  it,  then  fold 
and  put  it  away  carefully. 

Never  pile  nice  china  or  any  other  dishes  in  the  dishpan. 
Begin  with  a  pan  half  filled  with  hot  soapy  water.  Keep 
the  soap  in  a  shaker  made  for  that  purpose,  or  in  a  tin 
cup ;  make  a  strong  lather  in  the  cup,  and  use  as  needed. 
Never  leave  the  soap  in  the  dishpan  to  waste  and  stick  to 
the  dishes.  Wash  glasses  first.  Slip  them  in  sidewa}Ts, 
so  that  the  hot  water  will  touch  outside  and  inside  at  once, 
and  then  there  will  be  no  danger  of  breaking  from  unequal 
expansion.  Wash  one  at  a  time,  and  wipe  instantly  with- 
out draining  or  rinsing.  Wash  the  silver  and  wipe  at  once, 
as  it  keeps  bright  longer  if  wiped  out  of  hot  soapy  water. 
Keep  a  cake  of  silver  soap  at  hand,  and  rub  each  piece  of 
silver  as  soon  as  discolored.  Then  wash  the  china,  begin- 
ning with  the  cups,  saucers,  pitchers,  and  least  greasy 
dishes,  and  changing  the  water  as  soon  as  cool  or  greasj7. 
Place  these  dishes  in  the  rinsing-pan  with  the  cups  inside 
up  and  plates  resting  on  the  edges,  that  the3r  may  be 
scalded  inside  as  well  as  outside,  and  drain  quickly. 
Scald  and  wipe  immediately. 


Kitchen    Utensils.  443 


"  Dave's "  method  of  washing  dishes,  though  not  in 
general  use,  has  been  proved  satisfactory.  Place  a  pan 
of  cold  water  between  the  washing  and  rinsing  pans. 
After  washing  and  wiping  the  glasses  and  silver,  add 
more  hot  water,  and  wash  the  china  first  in  the  hot  suds, 
then  dip  each  dish  instantly  into  the  cold  water,  and  stand 
it  on  the  edge  to  drain  in  the  rinsing-pan.  The  cold  water 
rinses  off  the  hot  suds,  and  the  sudden  change  of  tempera- 
ture dries  the  dishes  almost  iustantty ;  and  they  require 
little  or  no  wiping.  They  will  be  neither  "  sticky  nor  I 
streaky." 

Where  there  is  only  one  woman  for  "  cook,  waitress, 
hostess,  and  kitchen  girl,"  it  is  well,  after  the  table  is  \ 
cleared  and  the  dishes  neatly  packed,  to  wash  first  the  j 
kitchen   dishes,  and  pots  and   kettles ;   then   with   clean 
water  and  towels  wash  and  wipe  the  table  dishes.     The 
hands  will  be  left  in  much  better  condition  than  when  the 
pots  and  kettles  are  washed  last. 

The  Care  of  Kitchen  Utensils. 

A  complete  list  of  kitchen  utensils  is  not  given  in  this 
work,  as  the  variety  and  number  needed  will  be  largely 
determined  by  circumstances.  There  are  several  utensils, 
which  are  not  perhaps  in  general  use,  which  lessen  the 
labor  of  cooking,  and  add  much  to  the  attractiveness  of 
food  prepared  by  their  aid. 

There  is  nothing  that  makes  so  much  difference  between 
ordinary  and  delicate  cooking  as  a  set  of  strainers.  There 
should  be  one  of  very  fine  wire  for  sifting  soda,  spices, 
etc.,  and  for  straining  custards  and  jellies ;  others  with 
meshes  from  one  sixteenth  to  one  eighth  of  an  inch  in 
diameter ;  also  a  squash  strainer  and  a  colander.  Ex- 
tension wire  strainers  are  very  convenient.  Keep  also  a 
supply  of  strainer  cloths,  made  from  coarse  crash  or  cheese 
cloth,  zudjine  napkin  linen. 

A  set  of  oval  tin  moulds,  a  melon  mould,  and  one  or 
two  fancy  moulds  are  convenient  for  entrees,  puddings, 
and  jellies. 


444  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Other  useful  articles  are  Dover  egy-beaters,  large  and 
small ;  ordinary  small  wooden  spoons  and  the  larger  per- 
forated ones  ;  a  whip  churn  ;  granite  saucepans  and  stew- 
pans,  holding  from  half  a  pint  to  six  quarts ;  double 
boilers;  &  wire  basket  for  frying  ;  &  potato  slicer  ;  &  fine  wire 
broiler  for  toast,  and  two  coarser  ones  for  steak  and  fish  ; 
a  set  of  pantry  bags  and  frosting  tubes  ;  fancy  vegetable 
cutters;  a  glass  rolling-pin;  and,  above  all,  a  small 
sharp-pointed  knife^  made  from  the  best  steel,  for  paring 
potatoes,  turnips,  etc.,  and  a  set  of  tin  measuring-cups 
holding  half  a  pint,  and  divided  into  quarters  and  thirds. 

It  is  a  mistake  to  have  many  large,  unwieldy  dishes. 
Small  saucepans  and  small  bowls  are  more  convenient,  and 
granite  or  agate  ware  is  much  lighter  to  handle  and  more 
easily  kept  clean  than  ironware.  Buckets  are  convenient 
for  keeping  sugar  and  small  quantities  of  flour.  Glass  jars 
or  wide-mouthed  bottles  are  best  for  nearly  all  groceries, 
such  as  rice,  tapioca,  meal,  raisins,  etc.  They  are  easily 
cleansed,  and  the  contents  are  plainly  seen.  They  may  be 
kept  air-tight,  or,  if  that  be  unnecessary,  old  jars  not  suit- 
able for  canning  ma}T  be  utilized. 

A  refrigerator  should  be  examined  daily  and  kept  thor- 
oughly clean.  If  a  suitable  brush  cannot  be  had,  a  long 
stiff  wire  with  a  bit  of  cloth  on  the  end  should  be  used  to 
clean  the  drain  pipe.  Pour  boiling  washing-soda  water 
through  it  every  other  day,  and  do  not  forget  to  wash  off 
the  slime  that  adheres  to  the  water  pan.  Fish,  onions, 
cheese,  any  strong  vegetables,  lemons,  or  meat  not  per- 
fectly sweet,  should  not  be  kept  in  the  same  ice-box  with 
milk  or  butter. 

Do  not  become  wedded  to  the  idea  that  dishes  can  only 
be  washed  in  a  sink.  If  your  pantry  or  cookroom  be  some 
distance  from  your  sink,  and  have  a  broad  shelf  or  table 
in  it,  take  your  dishpan  to  the  pantry,  wash  and  wipe  your 
dishes  there,  and  in  this  way  save  a  few  of  the  unneces- 
sary steps  which  soon  amount  to  miles  with  many  weary 
housekeepers. 

Never  wash  a  bread-board  in  an  iron  sink.     The  iron 


Care  of  Utensils.  445 

will  leave  a  black  mark  on  the  board,  which  it  is  difficult 
to  remove.  Wash  the  board  on  the  table  where  you  have 
used  it ;  use  cold  water,  and  scrub  occasionally  with  sand 
soap.  In  scraping  dough  from  the  board,  scrape  with  the 
grain  of  the  wood,  and  hold  the  knife  in  a  slanting  direc- 
tion, to  prevent  roughening  the  surface  of  the  board. 
Wash,  and  wipe  dr}',  and  never  let  dough  accumulate  in 
the  cracks.  Have  one  board  for  bread  and  pastry,  and 
keep  it  smooth.  Use  a  smaller  board  for  rolling  crumbs 
and  pounding  ana  cleaning  meat  and  fish. 

A  Dover  egg-beater  should  never  be  left  to  soak  in 
water,  as  the  oil  will  be  washed  out  of  the  gears  and  the 
beater  be  hard  to  turn  ;  or,  if  used  again  before  it  be  dry, 
the  oil  and  water  will  spatter  into  the  beaten  mixture. 
Use  it  with  clean  hands,  and  then  the  handle  will  require 
no  washing.  Wipe  the  wires  with  a  damp  cloth  immedi- 
ately after  using,  dry  thoroughly,  and  keep  it  well  oiled. 

All  dishes  should  be  scraped  before  washing.     A  small 
wooden  knife  is  best  for  this  purpose.     Bread  and  cake  j 
bowls,  or  any  dishes  in  which  flour  or  eggs  have  been  | 
used,  are  more  easity  cleaned  if  placed  in  cold  water  after  j 
using,  or  washed  immediately. 

Clear  up  as  you  work  :  it  takes  but  a  moment  then,  and 
saves  much  time  and  fatigue  afterward. 

Never  put  pans  and  kettles  half  filled  with  water  on  the 
stove  to  soak.  It  only  hardens  whatever  may  have  ad- 
hered to  the  kettle,  and  makes  it  much  more  difficult  to 
clean.  Keep  them  full  of  cold  water,  and  soak  them  away 
from  the  heat. 

Kitchen  knives  and  forks  should  never  be  placed  in  the 
dish  water.  Many  err  in  thinking  it  is  only  the  handles 
which  should  not  be  wet.  The  practice  of  putting  the 
blades  into  a  pitcher  of  very  hot  water  is  wrong,  as  the 
sudden  expansion  of  the  steel  by  the  heat  causes  the  han- 
dles to  crack.  Keep  the  knives  out  of  the  water,  but  wash 
thorough!}7  with  the  dishcloth,  rub  them  with  mineral  soap 
or  brick  dust,  and  wipe  them  dry.  Keep  them  bright,  and 
sharpen  often  on  a  sandstone.  The  disadvantage  and 


446  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

vexation  of  dull  tools  would  be  avoided  if  every  woman 
would  learn  to  use  a  whetstone,  and  where  and  when  to 
apply  a  little  oil. 

Milk  will  sour  quickly  if  put  into  dishes  which  have  not 
been  scalded.  They  should  first  be  washed  in  clear  cold 
water,  then  in  hot  soapy  water,  then  rinsed  in  clear  boil- 
ing water,  and  wiped  with  a  dry  fresh  towel.  Do  not  for- 
get to  scrape  the  seams  and  grooves  of  a  double  boiler. 

Ironware  should  be  washed,  outside  as  well  as  inside,  in 

hot  soapy  water,  rinsed  in  clean  hot  water,  and  wiped  dry, 

not  with  the  dishcloth,  but  with  a  dry  towel.     Dripping- 

'  pans,  Scotch  bowls,  and  other  greasy  dishes  should  be 

I  scraped,  and  wiped  with  soft  paper,  which  will  absorb  the 

grease.     The  paper  will  be  found  useful  in  kindling  the 

fire,  and  is  a  great  saving  of  water,  which  is  sometimes 

an  object.     A  tablespoonful  of  soda  added  to  the  water 

will  facilitate  the  cleaning. 

Kitchen  mineral  soap  or  pumice  stone  may  be  used 
freely  on  all  dishes.  It  will  remove  the  stains  from 
white  knife  handles,  the  brown  substance  that  adheres  to 
earthen  or  tin  baking-dishes,  and  the  soot  which  collects 
on  pans  and  kettles  used  over  a  wood  or  kerosene  fire. 
Tins  should  be  washed  in  clean,  hot  soapy  water.  Rub 
them  frequently  with  mineral  soap,  and  they  may  be  kept 
s  as  bright  as  when  new.  Saucepans  and  other  tin  or 
granite  dishes  browned  by  use  may  be  cleaned  by  letting 
them  remain  half  an  hour  in  boiling  soda  water,  then 
rubbing  with  a  wire  dishcloth  or  stiff  brush. 

A  new  tin  coffee-pot,  if  never  washed  on  the  inside 
with  soap,  may  be  kept  much  sweeter.  Wash  the  outside, 
and  rinse  the  inside  thorough!}'  with  clear  water.  Then 
put  it  on  the  stove  to  dry,  and  when  dry  rub  the  inside 
well  with  a  clean,  dry  cloth.  All  the  brown  sediment 
may  be  wiped  off  in  that  way,  but  a  soapy  dishcloth  should 
never  be  put  inside. 

Keep  a  granite  pan  near  the  sink  to  use  in  washing 
vegetables,  and  use  the  hand  basin  only  for  its  legitimate 
purpose.  Pare  vegetables  into  the  pan,  and  not  into  the 


Dish   Washing.  447 


sink.  A  strainer  or  any  old  quart  tin  pan  with  small 
holes  in  the  bottom  is  a  great  help  in  keeping  a  sink  clean. 
Pour  the  coffee  and  tea  grounds,  the  dish  water,  and 
everything  that  is  turned  into  the  sink  through  the  strainer 
first,  and  then  empty  the  contents  of  the  strainer  into  the 
refuse  pail. 

Never  use  a  ragged  or  linty  dishcloth.  The  lint  collects 
round  the  sink  spout,  and  often  causes  a  serious  obstruc- 
tion. A  dish  mop  ts  best  for  cups  and  cleanest  dishes, 
but  a  strong  linen  cloth  should  be  used  for  everything 
which  requires  hard  rubbing.  Wash  the  sink  thoroughly, 
flush  the  drainpipe  often  with  hot  suds  or  soda  water, 
wipe  dry,  and  rub  with  a  greased  cloth  or  with  kerosene,  j 
Keep  it  greased  if  }*ou  wish  to  prevent  its  rusting. 

Cremation  is  the  most  satisfactory  way  of  disposing  of  / 
kitchen  refuse,  both  as  a,  matter  of  convenience   and  for  ' 
sanitary  reasons.     But  if  there  must  be  other  disposition 
made   of  it,  keep  two   pails   and   use   them   alternately, 
cleansing  each  as  soon  as  emptied. 

Wash  dish  towels  in  cold  water,  with  plenty  of  soap,  ! 
and  rinse  thoroughly  in  cold  water,  every  time  they  are 
used.  If  left  to  dn'  without  washing,  they  will  be  sticky 
to  handle  and  have  a  disagreeable  odor.  If  the  dishes 
be  well  washed,  rinsed,  and  drained,  the  dish  towels  will 
require  no  rubbing.  It  is  easier  to  take  care  of  three  or 
four  which  have  never  been  left  to  become  grimy  than  to 
wash  one  after  it  is  stained  and  saturated  with  grease. 
Towels  used  in  this  way  ma}T  be  kept  sweet  and  clean 
without  boiling  or  drying  in  the  sun.  This  method  has 
been  proved  by  years  of  trial. 

With  a  little  care  in  observing  these  hints,  and  always 
using  clean,  hot  soapy  water  (and  not  a  liquid  fit  only  for 
the  swill  cart) ,  changing  it  as  soon  as  greasy,  dish- washing 
would  be  robbed  of  half  its  terrors.     And  after  the  work  I 
is  done,  if  the  hands  be  carefully  washed  with  Castile  soap,  ; 
not   with   strong   washing-soap,    and   wiped   dry,  no  un- 
pleasant effect  upon  the  skin  will  be  felt.     Some  use  a  little  j 
vinegar  to  counteract  the  effect  of  the  alkali  in  the  soap.       ; 


448  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

A  large -apron  made  like  a  child's  tire,  high  in  the  neck, 
with  long  sleeves,  and  buttoned  in  the  back,  is  the  best 
pattern  for  a  work  apron.  It  protects  the  entire  dress, 
and  can  be  easily  removed  when  one  is  called  from  the 
kitchen.  Print  or  cambric  with  a  white  ground  and  small 
black  figures  wears  better  than  colored  print. 

New,  white  mosquito  netting  and  cheese  cloth  are  useful 
for  draining  lettuce  and  for  putting  around  fish,  chicken, 
or  vegetables  which  require  careful  boiling ;  also  for  bags 
for  herbs  and  spices.  Small  squares  of  new  cotton  cloth 
are  useful  for  wiping  meat  or  fish.  Keep  them  clean,  and 
use  for  nothing  else. 

Keep  a  good  supply  of  small  holders,  large  coarse 
towels  to  use  about  the  oven,  and  fine  crash  towels  for 
wiping  dishes.  Keep  a  damp  towel  on  the  table  when 
cooking,  for  wiping  the  hands.  Avoid  the  habit  of  work- 
ing with  sticky  or  floury  fingers,  or  using  your  apron  for  a 
hand  towel  or  oven  holder,  or  using  the  dish  towels  about 
the  stove. 

These  suggestions  are  given  by  one  who  has  always 
liked  to  wash  dishes,  and  who  thinks  it  not  beneath  the 
dignity  of  any  woman  to  learn  to  do  such  work  in  the 
very  best  manner,  and  that  no  apology  is  needed  for 
acknowledging  a  taste  for  this  much-abused  portion  of 
domestic  work. 

To  remove  Iron  Rust.  —  Keep  a  bottle  of  strong  solu- 
tion of  oxalic  acid,  plainly  labelled  "  Poison,"  in  a  handy 
place  for  use  on  washing  day.  Gather  up  the  cloth  round 
the  spot  of  rust,  and  dip  the  spot  in  cold  water,  then  in 
the  acid,  and  then  in  rapidly  boiling  water,  holding  it 
in  the  steam  a  few  minutes.  If  the  spot  does  not  quickly 
disappear,  repeat  the  process.  The  steam  seems  to  be 
necessary  with  the  acid.  Then  rinse  thoroughly. 


AN 
OUTLINE   OF  STUDY  FOR  TEACHERS. 


FOOD: 

ITS  USES,  CLASSIFICATION,  AND  PROPORTION. 

WEBSTER  defines  food  as  "  anything  that  supports  and  nour- 
ishes life." 

The  kingdom  of  nature  is  divided  into  organic  and  inorganic 
bodies.  Organic  bodies  have  life ;  inorganic  bodies  are  without 
life.  Organic  bodies  are  composed  of  several  reciprocal  parts, 
each  of  which  is  necessary  to,  and  dependent  upon,  all  the  other 
parts.  Organic  bodies,  therefore,  include  plants  and  animals,  and 
inorganic  bodies  include  earths,  metals,  and  minerals.  Organic 
bodies  spring  from  some  parent  or  immediate  producing  agent ; 
they  are  supported  by  means  of  nourishment,  and  die  without  it ; 
they  increase  in  size  by  the  addition  of  new  particles  of  matter 
to  all  parts  of  their  substances.  Inorganic  bodies  are  formed  by 
some  chemical  law  or  union,  and  grow  only  by  addition  to  their 
surfaces. 

Organic  and  inorganic  bodies  are  continually  wasting  away  or 
wearing  out.  Waste  takes  place  in  all  objects,  animate  and  in- 
animate. The  minutest  change  in  position  in  any  plant,  ani- 
mal, or  rock  cannot  be  effected  without  some  loss  of  substance. 
It  has  always  been  beyond  the  power  of  man  to  make  anything 
that  would  not  wear  out.  But  there  is  this  important  distinction 
between  organic  and  inorganic  bodies.  Only  organic  bodies  can 
repair  their  waste,  and  add  to  their  substance;  they  alone  have 
life,  or  vital  force.  When  anything  wears  out  in  a  stone  or  a 
steam-engine,  there  is  no  power  in  the  stone  or  the  engine  to 
replace  the  lost  matter ;  and  when  a  plant  or  an  animal  dies, 
the  power  of  repairing  waste  is  gone  from  it  forever.  Hence  it 
is  with  animate  bodies,  or  bodies  endowed  with  life,  that  we  have 
to  do  in  considering  the  subject  of  food. 

29 


450  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Life  is  that  form  of  energy  in  creation  that  results  in  de- 
velopment from  within  the  object.  The  energy  may  be  purely 
physical,  as  in  plants;  or  it  may  involve  mental  and  moral 
considerations,  as  in  animals. 

There  are  some  essential  distinctions  between  the  various 
forms  of  organic  life.  Animals  grow  proportionally  in  all  direc- 
tions, and,  at  a  certain  time  of  life,  attain  their  average  size. 
Plants  grow  upwards  and  dpwnwards  from  a  collet  only,  and 
continue  to  grow  through  a  term  of  existence.  Animals  feed 
upon  organic  matter,  consume  oxygen  from  the  air,  and  throw 
off  carbonic  acid ;  plants  feed  upon  inorganic  matter,  consume 
carbonic  acid,  and  restore  oxygen  to  the  air. 

Living  plants  or  vegetables  are,  with  few  exceptions,  fixed  to 
the  spot  of  earth  from  which  they  spring,  and  receive  their 
nourishment  from  external  sources.  It  is  furnished  them  by 
the  soil,  air,  light,  and  heat  by  which  they  are  surrounded ;  and 
they  are  every  moment  receiving  all  that  is  necessary  for  their 
sustenance.  If  one  of  these  essential  conditions  be  withdrawn, 
death  follows.  Living  animals  have  the  power  of  locomotion, 
and,  being  obliged  to  wander,  they  are  not  always  directly  in 
contact  with  their  sources  of  nourishment.  They  have,  there- 
fore, a  storehouse  in  which  they  lay  up  at  intervals  a  supply 
of  material.  The  possession  of  this  stomach,  or  storehouse, 
characterizes  all  animal  beings. 

The  changes  that  occur  in  animal  life  are  more  rapid  and 
variable  than  those  in  vegetable  life.  Not  being,  like  vegeta- 
bles, always  in  connection  with  their  food,  animals  need  some 
monitor  to  warn  them  when  to  seek  it.  This  is  provided  them 
in  the  appetite,  or  the  sensations  of  hunger  and  thirst.  There  is 
also  a  pleasure  in  the  regulated  indulgence  of  these  sensations, 
which  never  fails  to  insure  attention  to  their  demands. 

The  vegetable  kingdom  is  the  original  source  of  all  organic 
matter.  All  our  food  is  derived  directly  from  the  vegetable 
world,  or  indirectly  through  animals  which  have  been  nourished 
on  vegetable  products.  The  ox  and  sheep,  which  are  consumed 
in  the  form  of  beef  and  mutton,  have  not  fed  on  flesh,  but  on 
grass,  hay,  oats,  and  other  grains.  It  is  only  under  exposure  to 
the  sun's  rays  that  plants  will  grow.  Hence  to  its  influence 
we  must  refer  the  production  of  food  in  the  first  instance,  and 
therefore  the  sustenance  of  all  life. 

Life  and  growth  in  human  beings  are  dependent  upon  two 
conditions, — motion  and  warmth. 

Motion.  —  Our  bodies  are  constantly  in  motion.     The  heart 


Food.  45 1 

and  lungs  move  with  every  breath.  Every  thought  causes  some 
change  in  the  brain.  Whenever  any  part  of  the  body  loses  its 
power  of  motion,  it  dies.  All  this  motion,  whether  voluntary  or 
involuntary,  results  in  the  gradual  wasting  away  of  the  flesh, 
blood,  and  bones  of  which  the  body  is  composed.  "  We  begin 
to  die  as  soon  as  we  begin  to  live."  If  the  worn-out  materials 
be  not  replaced,  we  die.  One  great  object  of  food  is  to  supply 
this  waste.  The  demand  for  building  material  is  greatest  when 
the  body  is  in  a  state  of  activity.  Until  the  human  body  has 
attained  its  complete  growth,  there  should  be  a  constant  supply 
of  material  for  new  growth,  as  well  as  for  repair.  In  maturity, 
or  when,  from  bodily  inactivity,  there  is  less  waste,  a  smaller 
supply  will  suffice.  Food  taken  at  regular  intervals  supplies 
means  of  growth,  and  repairs  the  worn-out  tissues. 

Warmth.  —  The  temperature  of  the  living  human  body  is  about 
98°.  In  hot  or  cold  climates,  in  summer  or  winter,  though  the 
temperature  of  the  external  parts  may  vary,  the  internal  tempera- 
ture is  the  same;  and  if  not  maintained  within  a  few  degrees  of 
this  point,  death  invariably  follows.  The  source  of  this  animal 
heat,  so  independent  of  outside  circumstances,  must  be  from 
within.  To  keep  up  this  internal  heat  or  fire,  a  constant  supply 
of  fuel  is  necessary.  This  fuel  is  supplied  by  our  food.  To  fur- 
nish material  for  growth  and  repair,  and  to  provide  fuel  for  the 
warmth  of  the  body,  is  the  twofold  object  of  food. 

Animal  Combustion.  —  The  process  by  which  food  maintains 
the  motion  and  warmth  of  the  body  is  a  kind  of  combustion, 
and  has  often  been  compared  to  the  combustion  carried  on  in 
the  steam-engine  (see  Youmans's  Chemistry).  We  can  have  no 
combustion  without  oxygen ;  therefore  oxygen  is  the  first  impor- 
tant element  of  food.  The  air  is  our  great  source  of  supply  of 
oxygen,  and  a  volume  might  be  written  on  the  necessity  for 
pure  air  and  perfect  ventilation.  We  breathe  oxygen  from  the 
air  into  our  lungs,  and  exhale  carbonic  acid.  There  must  there- 
fore have  been  some  internal  union  of  carbon  or  hydrogen  with 
oxygen,  and  such  a  union  always  produces  heat.  The  carbon 
and  hydrogen  are  obtained  from  our  food,  and  are  important 
elements.  They  are  necessary  for  animal  combustion. 

Food  is  taken  in  a  natural  or  in  a  prepared  state,  and,  after 
undergoing  certain  processes  of  digestion  and  assimilation,  be- 
comes a  part  of  our  bodies  for  a  time,  and  then  is  burned  in  the 
body,  the  process  resembling  somewhat  the  burning  of  wood  and 
coal  in  our  grates.  But  this  union  of  carbon  and  oxygen,  "in- 
stead of  taking  place  in  one  spot  and  so  rapidly  as  to  be  accom- 


452  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

panied  by  light,  as  in  the  case  of  the  grate  fire,  takes  place  in 
each  drop  of  the  blood,  and  so  slowly  and  continuously  as  not  to 
be  noticed."  The  force  and  heat  absorbed  from  the  sun  by  the 
vegetable  in  growing,  and  stored  in  its  starch  and  sugar,  are  set 
free,  by  the  decomposition  of  the  vegetable,  into  carbonic  acid 
and  water  again.  These  are  given  out,  partly  as  heat,  keeping 
the  body  temperature  at  98°;  and  partly  in  other  forms,  —  in 
that  of  mechanical  motion,  etc. 

All  the  external  or  internal  work  of  the  body  is  done  by 
the  force  and  energy  of  the  food  which  is  burnt  therein.  The 
greater  the  amount  of  work  to  be  done,  the  greater  must  be  the 
supply  of  fuel.  The  fire  is  constantly  burning.  "  The  smoke 
passes  out  in  exhalation,  inhalation  is  the  bellows  to  furnish 
more  oxygen,"  and  food  supplies  the  fuel.  The  kidneys  are 
the  grates  through  which  the  ashes  are  removed.  But  if  we 
are  "a  house  on  fire,"  why  are  we  not  consumed?  Because, 
lest  this  internal  fire  burn  too  freely,  the  oxygen  of  the  air  is 
diluted  with  nitrogen,  which  is  incombustible.  The  blood, 
bones,  and  muscles  of  the  body  are  composed  largely  of  nitro- 
gen, sixteen  per  cent  of  that  element  being  present;  and  this 
prevents  the  complete  burning  up  of  the  structure.  "  What  the 
iron  is  to  the  stove,  the  nitrogenous  tissues  are  to  the  body." 
But  the  stove  wears  out  in  time,  and  so  our  bodies  are  con- 
stantly wasting  away;  and  these  nitrogenous  elements  must  be 
supplied  by  our  food. 

Food,  to  accomplish  its  purpose  fully,  should  consist  of  these 
four  elements :  oxygen,  to  support  combustion,  —  obtained  from 
the  air;  carbon  and  hydrogen,  to  furnish  fuel,  —  obtained  from 
water  and  carbonaceous  food;  nitrogen,  to  build  up  and  repair 
the  tissues  of  the  body,  —  obtained  from  nitrogenous  food. 

Food,  in  the  form  in  which  it  is  eaten,  cannot  sustain  life. 
It  must  be  converted  into  a  fluid  that  can  pass  through  very 
small  channels  into  the  blood.  Then  it  must  be  mixed  with  the 
air,  and  undergo  certain  changes,  before  it  can  replace  the  worn- 
out  elements  of  the  body.  To  prepare  food  so  that  it  can  most 
readily  be  assimilated,  that  is,  made  like  our  bodies,  should  be 
the  chief  purpose  in  cooking.  To  do  this,  three  things  are 
essential :  1st.  The  food  selected  should  be  of  the  right  mate- 
rial, and  properly  proportioned;  2d.  It  should  be  cooked  in  the 
most  digestible  and  attractive  manner;  3d.  It  should  be  adapted 
to  the  various  circumstances  of  age,  occupation,  climate,  and 
state  of  health. 

Food,  to  be  of  the  right  material,  should  contain  all  the  ele- 


Human  Body.  453 

meuts  that  our  bodies  contain.  It  is  of  primary  importance, 
then,  iii  studying  food,  to  understand  first  the  composition  of  the 
human  body. 


THE  COMPOSITION  OF  THE  HUMAN  BODY. 

Our  bodies  are  made  up  of  different  materials:  skin,  flesh, 
blood,  bone,  etc.  These  consist  of  a  large  number  of  substances, 
called  compounds;  the  compounds  contain  two,  three,  or  four 
elements,  united  chemically  in  definite  proportion.  Some  of 
these  compounds  are :  water,  which  forms  more  than  two  thirds 
of  the  whole  body,  and  is  the  common  carrier  of  food  into  and 
through  the  system;  fibrine,  which  is  the  chief  solid  material  of 
flesh,  and  forms  one  tenth  of  the  body;  fat,  a  mixture  of  three 
compounds,  distributed  all  through  the  system;  albumen,  and 
other  nitrogenous  substances,  of  which  osseine  in  bones,  keratin 
iu  the  hair,  nails,  and  skin,  cartilagin  in  cartilage,  and  hemo- 
globin, which  contains  iron  and  gives  the  red  color  to  the  blood, 
are  the  most  important.  Chloride  of  sodium,  or  common  salt, 
and  other  mineral  salts  of  pofassa,  lime,  and  magnesia,  are 
found  in  all  parts  of  the  body.  These  compounds  are  made  up 
of  two  or  more  separate  and  distinct  elements. 

There  are  sixteen  elements  in  the  human  body,  —  oxygen, 
carbon,  hydrogen,  nitrogen,  phosphorus,  sulphur,  chlorine,  fluo- 
rine, silicon,  calcium,  potassium,  sodium,  magnesium,  iron, 
manganese,  and  copper.  Compounds  only,  not  the  separate  ele- 
ments, are  capable  of  nourishing  the  body.  Oxygen  only  exists 
•  as  an  element.  Its  office  is  to  support  combustion. 

Combinations  of  two  or  more  of  these  elements  are  found  in 
the  various  articles  used  as  food.  It  is  quite  important  that  our 
food  should  consist  of  various  materials,  containing  elements 
similar  to,  or  capable  of  being  changed  into,  the  elements  of  our 
bodies,  of  which  the  most  important  are:  water,  to  help  diges- 
tion and  assimilation  of  food,  and  to  help  carry  away  refuse 
material ;  salts,  to  renew  the  mineral  parts  and  replenish  certain 
tissues ;  carbon,  to  furnish  fuel  for  warmth ;  nitrogen,  to  build  up 
and  repair  the  whole  structure. 

For  convenience  the  elements  are  classified  chemically  into 
Non- Combustibles,  or  inorganic  compounds,  including  water  and 
salts ,  CombustHdes,  or  organic  compounds,  including  carbona- 
ceous and  nitrogenous  foods.  Some  foods  contain  no  carbon, 
some  contain  no  nitrogen,  and  some  have  all  the  elements  ID 


454  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

various  proportions.  Food  has  been  classified  into  gaseous,  01 
air;  liquid,  or  water;  and  solid,  including  animal  and  vegetable 
foods.  But  the  division  into  carbonaceous,  or  heat-producing, 
and  nitrogenous,  or  flesh-forming  foods,  answers  every  purpose, 


KON-COMBUSTIBLE   COMPOUNDS 

Water  and  Salts. 

Water  forms  more  than  two  thirds  of  the  whole  body.  It 
is  especially  abundant  in  the  blood  and  secretions.  It  gives 
them  the  necessary  fluidity,  and  enables  them  to  dissolve  the 
important  materials  they  contain.  It  is  contained  in  all  kinds 
of  solid  food,  as  well  as  in  the  liquids  drunk  as  beverages.  It 
is  most  abundant  in  fruits  and  vegetables.  Every  pound  of 
perfectly  dry  food  should  be  accompanied  with  four  pounds  of 
water. 

Pure  water  is  composed  of  oxygen  and  hydrogen,  one  ninth 
hydrogen  and  eight  ninths  oxygen  by  weight.  The  usual  test 
for  pure  drinking  water  is  that  it  be  "  free  from  color,  smell,  or 
taste,  be  soft,  bright,  and  aerated,  and  free  from  all  deposit." 
But  it  is  very  seldom  found  in  that  condition,  as  its  power  of 
dissolving  other  substances  is  so  great  that  it  nearly  always 
holds  animal,  vegetable,  or  mineral  matters  in  solution,  obtained 
from  the  earth  through  which  it  flows.  It  also  absorbs  gases 
and  odors  from  the  air.  The  animal  and  vegetable  substances 
found  in  it  render  it  impure.  But  the  mineral  matters,  unless- 
in  excess,  are  not  objectionable. 

When  water  contains  more  than  a  few  grains  to  the  gallon  of 
carbonate  of  lime,  it  is  termed  hard  water.  When  water  is  hard 
or  impure,  it  should  be  boiled  before  being  used  for  drinking, 
as  this  destroys  the  vegetable  and  animal  impurities. 

Water  evaporates  at  all  temperatures,  boils  at  212°,  and  freezes 
at  32°  Fahrenheit.  In  freezing,  the  substances  dissolved  in 
water  are  expelled.  Water,  as  it  approaches  the  freezing-point, 
expands,  and  often  bursts  the  vessels  in  which  it  is  contained. 
In  ponds  or  rivers  it  expands,  becomes  lighter,  freezes,  and 
floats  on  the  surface  in  the  form  of  ice. 

Water  is  perfectly  neutral.  It  combines  with  acids  and  with 
bases.  It  becomes  sweet,  sour,  salt,  astringent,  bitter,  or  poison- 
ous, according  to  the  nature  of  the  bodies  it  holds  in  solution. 


Salts.  455 

Salts  and  other  Mineral  Matters.  —  The  chief  purpose  of  min- 
eral ingrediepts  is  to  replenish  certain  tissues,  and  aid  in  the 
transference  and  absorption  of  the  combustible  nutrients,  as  a 
scaffolding  aids  in  the  construction  of  a  building. 

Chloride  of  sodium,  or  common  salt,  is  essential  to  the  life  of 
the  higher  animals.  It  exists  in  all  parts  of  the  body.  It  is 
more  abundant  in  the  blood  than  any  other  inorganic  ingredient 
except  water ;  but  it  is  an  active  poisonous  irritant  if  taken  in 
excess,  causing  diseases  of  the  mucous  membranes,  as  in  catarrh, 
and  stiffening  of  the  muscles,  as  in  rheumatism.  We  take  it  as 
a  natural  ingredient  in  many  kinds  of  food,  and  as  a  condiment 
to  increase  the  relish  of  many  others. 

The  desire  for  salt  is  instinctive.  There  are  people  who  do 
not  use  salt  in  food,  but  it  is  probable  that  they  obtain  sufficient 
sodium  and  chlorine  in  the  brackish  water  they  drink ;  or  it  may 
be,  their  habits  of  life  render  less  salt  necessary. 

Salt  must  be  added  plentifully  to  all  vegetable  food.  The 
bad  effects  of  a  salt-meat  diet  can  be  counteracted  by  the  use  of 
lemon  juice  and  fresh  green  vegetables,  which  are  rich  in  potash 
salts. 

Salt  taken  with  our  food  supplies  two  substances.  Its  chlo- 
rine supplies  the  hydrochloric  acid  of  the  gastric  juice,  that 
helps  digest  our  food;  and  soda,  which  is  an  element  of  the  bile,  — 
a  fluid  which  must  be  added  to  the  dissolved  or  softened  food 
before  the  nourishment  can  be  extracted  from  it.  People  would 
very  soon  become  ill  if  deprived  of  salt.  A  person  requires 
from  one  fourth  to  half  an  ounce  of  salt  daily.  The  attractive 
flavor  which  is  developed  by  cooking  and  adding  salt  to  our  food 
.excites  the  secretion  of  saliva  and  gastric  juice,  and  therefore 
helps  digestion.  The  Dutch  used  to  condemn  criminals  to  a 
diet  of  unsalted  food.  They  suffered  great  physical  torture, 
which  soon  ended  in  death. 

Salt  \8  one  of  the  most  abundant  of  all  minerals.  It  is  ob- 
tained from  springs  by  evaporation,  and  from  natural  mines. 
It  is  readily  soluble  in  hot  or  cold  water.  It  is  used  for  packing 
and  preserving  meats,  as  it  prevents  putrefaction  by  absorbing 
water  from  the  flesh. 

The  other  mineral  ingredients  needed  in  the  system  are  com- 
binations of  lime,  soda,  potash,  magnesia,  sulphur,  phosphorus,  and 
iron.  Phosphorus,  lime,  and  magnesia  are  found  hi  meat,  fish, 
the  cereals,  and  potatoes.  Potash  is  found  in  meat,  fish,  milk, 
vegetables,  and  the  dry  seeds  and  fleshy  parts  of  fruits,  iron, 
in  flesh,  vegetables,  and  nearly  all  food,  in  vwy  minute  quantities. 


456  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Sulphur  is  in  fibrine,  albumen,  and  caseine.  There  is  sufficient 
saline  matter,  except  common  salt,  in  all  the  ordinary  food  we 
eat  and  the  water  we  drink. 

t  These  mineral  matters  become  rearranged  and  combined 
before  becoming  part  of  the  body,  but  they  do  not  undergo  any 
chemical  change  or  decomposition.  They  are  absorbed  with 
the  food,  and  form  for  a  time  part  of  the  animal  tissues,  after 
which  they  are  discharged  with  the  secretions,  and  replaced  by 
a  fresh  supply.  They  are  absolutely  indispensable  to  the  nour- 
ishment of  the  body. 


COMBUSTIBLE    COMPOUNDS. 


CARBONACEOUS  FOODS. 

The  first  division  of  combustible  compounds  is  called  carbon- 
aceous because  they  all  contain  carbon;  or  heat-producing,  be- 
cause by  their  burning  they  generate  heat.  They  consist  of 
starch,  sugar,  fats  and  oils,  gum,  and  the  softer  fibres  of  plants. 
They  are  found  in  vegetables,  cereals,  fruits,  milk,  eggs,  and 
the  fat  of  meat. 

Starch. 

Starch  is  one  of  the  most  important  of  vegetable  foods;  it 
is  found  in  grains,  seeds,  and  roots,  and  in  the  pith  and  bark 
of  plants.  When  pure,  it  is  a  snow-white,  glistening  powder. 
It  consists  of  exceedingly  minute  grains,  varying  in  size  and 
shape  in  the  different  kinds  of  starch.  These  grains  are  cov- 
ered with  an  outer  skin  which  is  insoluble  and  unchanged  by 
cold  water;  but  in  boiling,  this  membrane  bursts  and  the  inte- 
rior of  each  grain  dissolves  in  the  water,  forming  a  thick, 
gummy  solution.  When  cool,  it  stiffens  into  a  kind  of  pasty 
mass. 

Starchy  food  is  very  unwholesome  unless  properly  cooked. 
It  must  be  mixed  with  a  sufficient  amount  of  liquid,  and  sub- 
jected to  a  great  degree  of  heat,  that  the  grains  may  swell  and 
burst.  This  liquid  is  sometimes  supplied  by  the  boiling  water 
in  which  certain  starchy  foods  are  cooked ;  and  sometimes  by  fat 
which  melts  with  the  heat,  as  in  pastry,  or  by  boiling  fat,  as  in 
anything  fried.  When  flour  or  starchy  food  is  mixed  with  fat, 
it  should  be  finely  and  evenly  mixed,  that  the  fat  may  penetrate 


Starch.  457 


every  part  of  the  flour,  or  else  it  will  cake,  and  all  the  grains 
will  not  burst.  Anything  that  helps  to  make  pastry  lighter 
and  the  fat  more  evenly  distributed,  causes  the  starch  grains  to 
burst  equally,  and  makes  such  food  more  wholesome.  W3 

Vegetables  should  be  put  into  boiling  water  to  burst  the 
starch  cells,  and  set  free  the  confined  air,  of  which  there  is  a 
great  deal  in  many  kinds.  They  should  be  taken  up  as  soon 
as  they  are  soft,  as  they  absorb  water  after  the  grains  are  fully 
burst. 

Starch  in  its  uncooked,  insoluble  state  is  not  digested  by  the 
human  stomach.  Seeds  and  fruits  which  consist  of  starch, 
especially  if  it  be  combined  with  oil,  as  in  many  nuts,  if  eaten 
uncooked,  are  very  difficult  to  digest. 

All  starchy  articles  of  food  should  be  masticated  thoroughly, 
and  mixed  with  the  saliva.  It  is  more  necessary  to  chew  bread 
and  potatoes  well  than  meat.  Starch  is  changed  by  various 
means  into  sugar.  If  an  acid  be  added  to  it  in  a  watery  solu^ 
tion,  and  boiled,  it  becomes  clear  and  transparent,  and  after  a 
time  all  the  starch  disappears,  and  sugar  takes  its  place.  The 
same  change  is  caused  by  the  saliva,  and  during  digestion  the 
starch  is  all  changed  into  sugar,  so  that  none  of  it  is  found  in 
the  fluids  and  secretions  of  the  body.  This  is  easily  seen  by 
chewing  pure  starch ;  after  a  while  it  will  become  sweet. 

Starch  contains  no  albuminous  substances,  and  therefore 
cannot  supply  any  of  the  materials  of  which  our  bodies  are 
formed.  But  it  is  the  source  of  the  warmth  of  our  bodies,  and 
the  strength  we  exert.  Taken  alone,  it  would  be  useless  as  an 
article  of  food.  It  must  have  the  addition  of  albuminoid  and 
fatty  substances,  like  milk  or  meat. 

Starch  is  prepared  by  grinding  some  vegetable  matter  that 
contains  it  in  abundance,  and  mixing  it  with  cold  water.  The 
water  is  strained  and  allowed  to  stand ;  the  starch  settles  at  the 
bottom,  and  is  then  dried  and  powdered.  Comstar -ch  is  ob- 
tained from  Indian  corn,  by  a  chemical  process.  The  gluti- 
nous, oily  elements  are  freed  from  the  seed  by  alkaline  solutions, 
and  the  starchy  parts  are  ground  arid  dried.  Sago  is  starch 
from  the  pith  of  a  species  of  palm-tree.  Tapioca  is  from  the 
root  of  a  species  of  the  cassava  plant  of  South  America.  It  is  a 
coarsely  granulated  substance.  Cassava,  or  mandioc,  is  a  more 
finely  granulated  form  of  the  same  root.  Arrowroot  is  from 
the  rhizoma,  or  roots  talk,  of  a  West  Indian  plant.  The  natives 
use  the  roots  of  a  species  of  the  plant  in  extracting  the  poison 
of  arrows;  hence  the  name. 


458  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Sugar. 

Sugar  is  composed  of  oxygen,  hydrogen,  and  carbon.  There 
are  three  kinds,  — cane  sugar,  or  sucrose;  grape  sugar,  or  glu- 
cose; milk  sugar,  or  lactose. 

Cane  sugar  as  an  article  of  food  closely  resembles  starch,  but 
it  is  soluble  and  therefore  more  easily  digested.  It  is  readily 
distinguished  by  its  sweet  taste.  It  is  found  in  many  animal 
juices  and  also  in  fruits,  but  exists  mainly  in  vegetable  juices 
which  have  little  or  no  acid  in  their  sap,  like  sugar  cane,  rock 
maple,  and  beet-root.  In  its  natural  state  it  is  dissolved  in  the 
vegetable  fluids,  mingled  with  many  other  substances.  It  is 
obtained  by  crushing  the  raw  material ;  the  fluids  thus  obtained 
are  heated  with  a  solution  of  lime,  which  causes  the  impurities 
to  separate  and  rise  in  scum.  These  are  removed,  and  the 
purified  juice  boiled  down  until  it  solidifies  as  a  brownish  de- 
posit. This  brown  sugar  is  again  dissolved,  boiled,  and  filtered 
through  charcoal,  evaporated,  and  crystallized.  Molasses  is  the 
drainage  of  the  raw  sugar.  Brown  sugar  is  the  first  product. 
Granulated  sugar  is  brown  sugar  refined  and  re-crystallized. 
All  brown  and  moist  sugars  are  inferior  in  quality;  they  contain 
water  and  mineral  matter,  and  are  sometimes  infested  by  a 
minute  insect.  Loaf  sugar  is  the  purest. 

Sucrose,  or  cane  sugar,  is  changed,  by  the  acids  of  the  gastric 
juice  and  the  nitrogenous  matter  of  the  food,  into  grape  sugar, 
or  glucose.  One  of  the  most  remarkable  properties  of  sugar  is 
that  it  can  be  decomposed  and  converted  into  other  substances 
by  fermentation.  In  its  chemical  relations  sugar  ranks  with 
acids,  and  combines  with  bases,  as  in  sugar  of  lead.  It  melts  at 
320°,  and  by  cooling  forms  a  transparent  amber-colored  solid 
known  as  barley  sugar.  If  heated  to  420°,  it  forms  a  brown 
mass,  called  caramel.  Sugar  has  great  preservative  powers, 
and  is  used  in  preserving  fruits,  hams,  bacon,  etc. 

Glucose,  or  grape  sugar*  is  abundantly  distributed  throughout 
the  vegetable  kingdom.  It  is  found  in  honey,  figs,  grapes,  and 
other  fruits  which  have  acid  juices.  It  is  less  sweet  than  cane 
sugar,  and  is  immediately  absorbed  into  the  circulation  when 
taken  into  the  stomach.  It  is  less  soluble  and  less  easily 
crystallized  than  sucrose. 

Lactose,  or  milk  sugar,  is  obtained  only  from  the  milk  of  mam- 
malia. It  has  the  composition  of  cane  sugar,  and  is  converted 
into  grape  sugar  when  taken  as  food. 


Fats.  459 


Fats. 

Fats,  or  oleaginous  substances,  are  composed  of  carbon,  hydro- 
gen, and  oxygen,  —  the  two  former  elements  preponderating, 
—  and,  having  a  very  strong  affinity  for  oxygen,  are  highly 
combustible. 

Fats  are  solid ;  oils  are  liquid.  Fats  may  be  changed  to  oil  by 
a  slight  accession  of  heat,  and  are  obtained  from  both  animal 
and  vegetable  tissues,  —  suet  and  dripping,  from  beef  fat;  lard, 
from  the  fat  of  pigs;  butter,  from  the  cream  of  milk;  olive  oil, 
from  the  fleshy  pulp  of  the  fruit  of  the  olive  tree.  Oil  is  also 
found  in  nuts,  seeds,  cereals,  and  fruits.  Croton  oil,  used  for 
medicinal  purposes,  is  from  a  plant,  a  native  of  India;  cod  liver 
oil,  from  the  liver  of  cod  fish ;  castor  oil,  from  the  seeds  of  the 
castor-oil  plant. 

Fats  and  oils  contain  three  different  oleaginous  substances, 
known  as  stearine,  margarine,  and  oleine.  Oleine  is  that  portion 
of  oil  that  causes  its  fluidity.  It  is  more  abundant  in  oils  than 
fats,  and  in  the  fat  of  swine  than  in  the  harder  fat  of  sheep  or 
beef.  Lard  is  better  than  mutton  fat  or  suet  for  frying,  because, 
having  more  oleine,  it  can  be  converted  into  a  liquid  sooner. 
Margarine  is  harder  than  oleine.  It  exists  in  human  fat,  in  but- 
ter, and  olive  oil.  Stearine  is  the  most  solid  substance  of.  the 
three,  and  is  most  abundant  in  tallow  and  suet. 

The  peculiar  odor  some  fats  and  oils  possess  is  from  the  pres- 
ence of  an  acid.  In  butter  it  is  butyric  acid.  Glycerine  is  the 
base  common  to  all  the  fats.  In  stearine,  the  hardest  fat,  it 
unites  with  stearic  acid;  in  margarine,  a  less  solid  form,  with 
margaric  acid ;  in  oleine,  or  oil,  with  oleic  acid. 

"  Fat  forms  the  chief  material  of  adipose  tissue.  It  serves  to 
fill  spaces  and  give  rotundity  and  beauty  to  the  form,  to  equalize 
external  pressure,  to  diminish  the  friction  of  the  parts*  to  give 
suppleness  to  the  tissues,  and,  being  a  non-conductor  of  heat,  to 
keep  the  body  warm.  An  undue  accumulation  of  fat  is  a  species 
of  disease." 

Oils  and  fats  will  not  mix  with  water ;  but  if  an  alkaline  sub- 
stance, like  potash  or  soda,  be  added,  the  oil  becomes  separated 
into  fine  particles,  and  is  held  suspended  in  the  watery  fluid. 
This  is  called  an  emulsion,  and  this  is  what  takes  place  in  intes- 
tinal digestion.  The  gastric  juice,  being  acid,  does  not  digest 
fat,  but  only  separates  it  from  these  substances,  that  it  may 
digest  the  albuminous  portions  with  which  it  is  mingled.  But 


460  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  pancreatic  fluid,  being  alkaline,  resolves  the  fat  into  an 
emulsion.  This  completes  the  digestion,  then  the  fats  are  ab- 
sorbed and  received  into  the  general  circulation.  Having  a 
strong  affinity  for  oxygen,  these  fatty  particles  in  the  venous 
blood,  when  they  come  in  contact  with  the  oxygen  of  the  air, 
burn,  and  heat  is  evolved.  The  power  of.  fat  in  maintaining 
heat  and  activity  is  two  and  a  half  times  that  of  starch. 

Oils  which  are  used  as  food  are  fixed  oils.  Volatile  oils  are 
found  in  many  condiments  and  perfumes.  Volatile  oils  can  be 
distilled,  or  changed  to  vapor,  and  recondensed  into  their  origi- 
nal form;  they  leave  no  permanent  stain  on  paper.  Fixed  or 
greasy  oils  cannot  be  distilled ;  before  changing  to  vapor  they 
recombine  into  new  compounds. 

Gum,  Mucilage,  Pectose,  and  Cellulose. 

These  are  combustible  compounds,  but  are  neither  starchy, 
saccharine,  nor  oily.  Gum  is  found  in  apple  and  plum  trees. 
Gum  arabic  is  from  a  species  of  acacia,  and  is  soluble.  Muci- 
lage is  found  in  onions,  quinces,  and  flaxseed.  It  forms  a  jelly 
with  water,  but  does  not  dissolve  like  gum  arabic.  Pectose  is 
found  in  many  roots,  like  the  turnip;  also  in  the  pear  and  peach. 
When  boiled  with  water  it  changes  to  a  vegetable  jelly,  called 
pectine.  Currants,  pears,  peaches,  plums,  contain  pectine,  and 
this  is  what  gives  firmness  to  the  preserves  made  from  them. 
Cellulose  is  the  woody  fibre  of  stalks  of  grain,  the  membrane 
which  envelops  the  grains,  husks,  and  skin  of  seeds,  rinds, 
cores,  and  stones  of  fruits.  It  is  the  main  and  almost  the  sole 
constituent  of  linen,  and  of  the  paper  which  is  made  from  linen, 

NITROGENOUS  FOODS. 

The  second  division  of  the  Combustible  Compounds  is  called 
nitrogenous,  or  flesh-forming  foods.  Nitrogen  is  the  flesh-form- 
ing element  common  to  all  foods.  It  enters  largely  into  the 
composition  of  the  body,  forming  sixteen  per  cent  of  the 
animal  tissue.  A  liberal  supply  is  necessary  to  form  and 
repair  tissue.  Although  the  atmosphere  is  four  fifths  nitro- 
gen, we  get  no  supply  from  that  source.  It  must  be  sup- 
plied in  a  state  of  combination,  not  as  an  element,  from  such 
compounds  as  have  been  produced  under  the  influence  of  life. 
We  require  organic  nitrogenous  matter,  and  not  pure  nitrogen. 
This  is  sometimes  derived  from  vegetable  sources,  but  is  most 


Albuminous  Food.  461 

abundant  in  animal  substances.  Animal  food  is  richer  and 
more  nutritious  than  vegetable  food ;  but  the  latter,  if  taken  in 
large  quantities,  yields  the  same  amount  of  flesh-forming  mate- 
rial. Nitrogenous  substances  in  plants  and  animals  are  identical 
in  composition ;  and,  from  whichever  source  they  are  taken,  the 
most  important  consideration  is,  to  digest  them  and  make  them 
into  blood. 

Nitrogen  is  an  essential  part  of  some  of  our  most  powerful 
medicines,  like  quinine  and  morphine,  and  of  our  most  dangerous 
poisons,  such  as  strychnine  and  prussic  acid. 

Nitrogenous  foods  are  also  called  albuminous,  because  albumen 
is  their  common  element,  though  it  is  called  by  different  names 
in  different  things.  Albumen  is  from  albus,  meaning  white.  The 
principal  varieties  of  albuminous  food  are  lean  meat,  fish,  eggs, 
milk,  cheese,  peas,  beans,  oatmeal,  flour,  rye,  and  corn.  These 
are  treated  more  fully  in  other  parts  of  the  book,  in  chapters  on 
Bread,  Meats,  Fish,  Eggs,  Milk,  and  Vegetables. 

The  albuminous  portion  of  meat  is  the  juice,  or  albumen,  and 
the  fibre,  or  fibrin e.  In  eggs  it  is  the  white.  In  milk  it  is  the 
caseine,  or  the  curdy  part  that  separates  when  milk  has  soured. 
In  peas  and  beans  it  is  called  vegetable  caseine.  In  flour  it 
is  gluten,  —  the  sticky,  glutinous  substance  which  is  left  after 
squeezing  or  washing  out  the  starch. 

Albumen  exists  in  two  states,  — one  soluble  in  water  and  one 
insoluble.  The  soluble  may  be  changed  to  insoluble  by  heating 
to  120°,  or  by  adding  nitric  acid.  It  is  the  most  easily  digested 
of  all  flesh-forming  foods. 

Albuminous  substances  have  the  property  of  coagulation ;  but 
all  albuminoids  do  not  coagulate  in  the  same  way.  The  albumen 
of  eggs  and  the  juices  of  meat  coagulate  by  heating  to  the  boiling- 
point.  The  fibrine  of  the  blood  coagulates  when  exposed  to  the 
air.  Milk  coagulates  by  the  addition  of  an  acid. 

Albuminous  substances  also  have  the  property  of  fermentation. 
This  occurs  principally  in  substances  which  are  rich  in  sugar, 
starch,  and  gluten,  like  flour,  milk,  etc.  The  fermentation  in 
flour  and  milk  is  explained  in  the  chapter  on  Bread-Making. 

Fermentation  will  not  take  place  without  air  or  moisture,  and 
a  moderate  degree  of  heat.  Therefore,  if  albuminous  substances 
be  excluded  from  air  and  moisture,  and  kept  very  hot  or  very 
cold,  they  will  not  ferment.  Fermentation  is  a  change  in  the 
elements  of  a  body  composed  of  oxygen,  carbon,  and  hydrogen. 
Sugar  is  composed  of  carbon,  oxygen,  and  hydrogen  in  equal 
parts;  when  sugar  ferments,  it  decomposes  and  then  reunites  in 


462  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

different  proportions,  forming  different  compounds,  —  alcohol, 
carbonic  acid,  and  water. 

Albuminous  substances  are  the  only  substances  which  putrefy. 
Putrefaction  resembles  fermentation,  and  is  due  to  the  presence, 
in  large  proportion,  of  the  fickle  element,  nitrogen,  and  also  to 
the  large  number  of  elements  combined  in  all  albuminous  sub- 
stances. Complicated  machinery  is  always  more  easily  deranged 
than  simple;  and  in  all  chemical  combinations,  the  more  com- 
plex they  are,  the  more  unstable.  Nitrogen  has  a  very  weak 
affinity  for  other  elements,  and  forms  very  unstable  compounds. 
All  substances  rich  in  nitrogen,  when  exposed  to  the  air,  soon 
pass  into  a  state  of  decomposition,  or  putrefaction.  The  oxygen 
of  the  air  has  a  greater  affinity  than  the  nitrogen  for  the  other 
elements,  and  unites  with  them  very  easily.  In  putrefaction 
the  oxygen  unites  with  the  carbon  to  form  carbonic  acid, 
and  with  the  hydrogen  to  form  water.  The  hydrogen  and 
nitrogen  unite  and  form  ammonia,  and  this  occasions  the 
peculiar,  unpleasant  odor  of  all  putrefying  bodies.  In  sub- 
stances rich  in  sulphur  and  phosphorus,  the  hydrogen  unites 
with  them  and  forms  sulphuretted  and  phosphoretted  gases 
which  are  very  offensive.  Therefore,  if  we  exclude  the  air  or 
oxygen  from  such  substances,  we  can  arrest  decomposition. 
This  is  done  by  keeping  them  in  air-tight  vessels,  thus  remov- 
ing the  oxygen  from  the  outside ;  and  by  boiling  or  drying,  to 
remove  that  which  is  diffused  within.  Freezing  will  have  the 
same  effect ;  also  salting  or  preserving.  The  salt  draws  out  the 
moisture,  hardens  the  albumen,  and  prevents  the  access  of 
oxygen.  In  preserving,  by  the  use  of  a  strong  solution  of  sugar, 
the  watery  juices  are  drawn  put  and  formed  into  a  thick  syrup 
which  excludes  the  air. 

There  are  some  albuminous  substances,  such  as  isinglass  and 
gelatine,  which  are  taken  as  food  ;  but,  strictly  speaking,  they 
are  not  flesh- formers.  Isinglass  is  obtained  from  the  sound, 
or  swimming  bladder,  of  the  sturgeon,  and  is  imported  from 
Russia.  It  is  not  actually  gelatine,  but  is  transformed  into  it 
by  boiling  water.  Gelatine  is  obtained  from  bones.  Ossein  is 
that  part  of  the  bones  to  which  their  strength  and  elasticity  are 
due.  It  is  insoluble  in  cold  water,  but  is  slowly  dissolved  and 
changed  into  gelatine  by  being  boiled  gently  under  a  pressure 
sufficient  to  prevent  the  escape  of  steam.  Gelatine  is  also  ob- 
tained from  tendons,  calves'  feet,  fish  scales,  stag's  horns,  etc. 

There  are  other  varieties  of  nitrogenous  food  which  are  also 
carbonaceous.  These  are  commonly  included  under  the  general 


Milk.  463 

term  Beverages;  namely,  tea,  coffee,  cocoa,  and  chocolate.  The 
nitrogenous  principle  of  tea  is  theine;  of  coffee,  caffeine;  and  of 
chocolate,  theobromme.  Tea  also  contains  iron  and  manganese. 

Drinks,  Beverages,  and  Liquid  Foods  are  elassified  as  follows : 
water,  including  rain,  well,  and  mineral  spring  water ;  mucilagi- 
nous, farinaceous,  ^r  saccharine  drinks,  including  toast  water, 
Irish  moss,  and  barley  water,  sago,  tapioca,  arrowroot,  and  other 
gruels;  aromatic  or  astringent  drinks,  including,  tea,  coffee,  choco* 
late,  cocoa,  and  herb  teas ;  acidulous  drinks,  including  lemonade, 
raspberry  vinegar,  and  other  fruit  syrups ;  animal  broths,  or  drinks 
containing  gelatine,  including  soups,  broths,  and  beef  tea;  emul- 
sive drinks,  including  milk  ;  alcoholic  and  intoxicating  drinks, 
including  wines,  cider,  beer,  ale,  porter,  brandy,  and  whiskey. 

Water  is  discussed  under  Non-Combustible  Foods.  Receipts 
for  mucilaginous  and  acidulous  drinks,  animal  broths,  and  herb 
teas  are  given  in  the  chapter  on  Cookery  for  the  Sick.  The 
aromatic  drinks  are  included  in  a  separate  article  under  the  head 
of  Beverages.  Alcoholic  drinks  will  not  be  discussed  for  want 
of  space.  Milk  is  food  as  well  as  drink,  and  deserves  especial 
consideration. 

Milk. 

Milk  consists  of  three  distinct  substances,  which  separate 
from  one  another  after  standing  awhile,  —  the  cream,  curd, 
and  whey. 

The  cream  is  the  carbonaceous  part,  and  forms  ten  or  twelve 
per  cent  of  the  whole.  It  consists  of  very  small  globules  of  fat, 
or  butter,  invisible  to  the  naked  eye,  surrounded  by  a  fine  mem- 
brane of  caseine  or  albuminous  matter.  These  are  dispersed  in 
the  milk  at  first ;  but  as  they  are  lighter  than  the  other  parts, 
they  rise  to  the  top  of  the  milk  in  the  form  of  cream.  When  the 
cream  is  churned,  the  membrane  of  each  globule  is  ruptured, 
causing  the  butter  to  cohere  in  a  separate  mass.  If  all  this 
caseine,  or  albuminous  matter,  be  not  removed,  the  butter  soon 
becomes  rancid.  The  butter  has  more  margarine  than  oleine, 
and  is  therefore  hard  and  firm  instead  of  fluid.  It  contains 
butyric  acid,  which  gives  it  its  peculiar  flavor. 

The  curd  is  the  albuminous  part  of  the  milk,  which  separates 
in  a  solid  form  whenever  milk  sours  or  curdles.  This  separa- 
tion is  occasioned  by  the  action  of  the  oxygen  in  the  air  upon 
the  nitrogen  in  the  caseine,  causing  a  portion  of  the  caseine  to 
ferment.  This  ferment  acts  upon  the  sugar  of  the  milk,  and 
converts  it  into  lactic  acid ;  and  this  acid  acts  as  any  other  acid 


464  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

would,  and  causes  the  sourness  of  the  milk.  The  caseine  is  in- 
soluble in  water,  but  in  the  milk  it  is  combined  with  soda,  and 
this  compound  is  soluble.  So,  when  the  milk  sours,  and  a  suffi- 
cient quantity  of  acid  is  formed,  it  seizes  upon  the  soda,  takes  it 
away  from  the  caseine,  and  forms  lactate  of  soda.  The  caseine, 
being  thus  set  free,  shrinks,  and  gathers  into  an  insoluble  curdy 
mass.  This  separation  is  spontaneous;  but  it  is  often  caused 
artificially,  by  the  use  of  an  acid,  —  usually  rennet,  which  is  the 
lining  membrane  of  a  calf's  stomach.  The  curd  thus  separated 
is  pressed  and  prepared  in  various  forms  of  cheese.  It  contains 
the  nutritious  elements  of  the  milk  in  a  condensed,  but  somewhat 
indigestible  form.  Cheese  is  more  digestible  when  made  from 
fresh  than  from  skimmed  milk. 

The  whey  is  the  water  of  the  milk  that  separates  from  the  curd 
in  souring,  and  contains  dissolved  in  it  the  sugar  of  milk  and  the 
saline  and  mineral  ingredients.  It  is  much  better  to  use  milk 
in  its  natural  state  than  to  use  the  butter  or  cheese  obtained 
from  it.  It  is  the  cheapest  form  in  which  animal  food  can  be 
obtained,  and  should  be  used  freely,  especially  by  the  young  or 
weak. 

Condensed  milk,  when  well  prepared,  is  convenient  and  valu- 
able as  an  article  of  diet,  if  fresh  milk  cannot  be  obtained.  It 
can  only  be  made  from  pure  milk,  and  is  therefore  perfectly 
harmless. 


CONDIMENTS. 

There  is  another  class  of  foods,  called  condiments,  which  should 
not  pass  unnoticed. 

Food  that  "  tastes  good  "  is  digested  more  readily,  and  assimi- 
lated more  perfectly,  so  that  we  really  derive  more  nourishment 
from  it.  We  use  many  articles  with  our  food  to  make  it  taste 
better,  which  are  not  in  themselves  valuable  as  food.  But  by 
stimulating  the  flow  of  saliva  and  gastric  juice,  and  enhancing 
the  fine  flavor  of  food,  they  increase  the  pleasure  of  eating,  and 
render  digestion  more  complete.  These  are  called  condiments. 
They  are  not  necessary  to  persons  of  sound  digestion,  and,  with 
the  exception  of  salt,  should  not  be  used  by  children,  nor  by  any 
one  in  large  quantities.  In  perfect  digestion  there  is  the  first 
taste  in  the  mouth  and  the  after-taste  of  the  digestive  organs 
which  require  satisfaction.  "  Any  cook  may  gratify  the  first, 
but  the  second  requires  a  skilled  chemist." 


Condiments.  465 


The  principal  condiments  are  salt,  pepper,  mustard,  and  some 
herbs,  including  mint,  thyme,  parsley,  sage,  marjoram,  summer 
savory,  and  bay  leaves;  spices,  including  ginger,  nutmeg,  cinna- 
mon, clove,  mace,  and  allspice;  and  flavorings  or  extracts  of 
lemon,  vanilla,  orange,  almond,  pineapple,  etc. 

Salt  is  the  only  condiment  actually  necessary  to  health  (see 
page  455). 

Pepper  is  a  stimulant  when  taken  in  small  quantities,  but  irri- 
tating if  taken  in  excess.  It  is  the  dried  berry  of  a  climbing 
plant  of  the  piper  family.  The  whole  peppers  are  called  pepper- 
corns. These  peppercorns  are  ground,  and  we  have  black  pepper. 
The  outer  shells  are  sometimes  removed  before  grinding,  and 
these  kernels  ground  give  us  white  pepper,  which  has  a  different 
flavor  and  is  less  pungent  than  black  pepper.  Red  or  Cayenne 
pepper  consists  of  seed-vessels  or  pods  of  different  species  of 
capsicum  ground  to  powder.  It  is  stimulating,  and  far  more 
wholesome  than  the  black  pepper,  though  not  as  much  used.  It 
is  valuable  as  a  medicine. 

Mustard  is  used  as  a  condiment  and  medicine.  It  is  made 
from  seeds  of  black  and  white  mustard,  which  are  crushed  be- 
tween rollers,  and  then  pounded  in  mortars.  In  small  quantities 
it  is  good  for  digestion.  Both  red  pepper  and  mustard,  if  used 
sparingly  with  indigestible  food,  like  lobster  and  baked  beans, 
are  very  useful. 

The  herbs  are  used  dried  or  green,  and  when  used  judiciously, 
make  meats,  soups,  and  sauces  more  palatable. 

Spices  are  used  in  cakes  and  articles  of  food  containing  sugar, 
and  sometimes  with  meats.  They  are  used  whole,  ground,  and 
in  the  extract.  Ginger  is  the  most  healthful,  and  is  often  used 
in  sickness.  It  is  a  valuable  stimulating  tonic  in  hot  weather. 
The  other  spices  are  better  when  mixed  in  small  quantities,  less 
of  clove  and  more  of  cinnamon  being  used.  When  combined  so 
that  no  one  spice  predominates,  they  are  pleasant  to  the  taste. 
Care  should  be  taken  lest  they  hide  the  natural  flavor  of  the 
food. 

Flavors  are  all  good  in  small  quantities.  Almond,  vanilla, 
lemon,  and  pineapple  are  often  adulterated.  They  should  never 
be  added  while  the  article  is  hot,  as  the  heat  wastes  the  strength 
of  the  flavor.  Vanilla  beans  are  better  than  the  extract.  It  is 
always  well,  if  possible,  to  use  the  fresh  fruit  juice. 

Lemon  juice  and  vinegar,  used  in  moderation,  increase  the  sol- 
vent properties  of  the  gastric  juice,  and  are  useful  with  meats 
and  vegetables  which  are  difficult  of  digestion. 

30 


466  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


PROPER  PROPORTION  OF  FOOD. 

These  different  kinds  of  food,  ivater,  salts,  sugar,  starch,  fat, 
and  albumen,  must  be  combined  in  our  diet;  for  a  simple  sub- 
stance which  fulfils  only  one  of  the  purposes  required  in  our 
food  will  not  support  life.  A  man  cannot  live  on  water  or  salt, 
yet  he  would  soon  die  without  them.  A  diet  composed  exclu- 
sively of  fats,  starch,  or  sugar  is  equally  incapable  of  supporting 
life.  The  albuminous  foods,  though  they  are  considered  the  most 
nutritious,  must  be  combined  with  the  others  to  produce  the 
desired  result. 

Milk  is  the  only  substance  prepared  by  nature  expressly  as  an 
article  of  food.  Seeds  grow,  and  produce  plants  and  fruits  after 
their  kind;  but  milk  is  prepared  as  the  natural  food  of  the 
young  of  all  mammalia.  A  baby  fed  on  milk  develops  in  every 
part;  therefore  milk  must  supply  every  requisite  for  the  growth 
of  the  young  body,  and  the  proportions  in  woman's  milk  may  be 
taken  as  the  standard  for  human  food.  Milk  analyzed  is  found 
to  contain  water,  salt,  fat,  sugar,  and  caseine,  —  the  five  ele- 
ments of  food.  It  has  enough  of  flesh -producing  elements  to 
restore  the  daily  waste,  and  enough  heat-giving  elements  to  feed 
the  oxygen  in  breathing.  But  when  the  teeth  are  formed,  the 
child's  system  needs  a  greater  proportion  of  some  elements  than 
are  supplied  by  the  milk,  and  other  foods  are  gradually  added 
to  the  diet. 

Eggs  also  contain  all  the  necessary  elements;  a  diet  of  seven 
eggs  per  day  furnishes  all  the  nutrition  a  person  needs.  But 
the  elements  in  eggs  are  too  highly  condensed,  and  are  not 
properly  proportioned  for  a  continuous  diet. 

Many  articles  of  food  do  not  contain  all  these  elements,  and 
it  is  very  important  to  proportion  our  food  rightly,  so  that  one 
kind  will  supply  what  another  lacks.  A  certain  bulk  is  also 
necessary  in  our  food  to  stimulate  a  thorough  action  of  the  diges- 
tive fluids.  If  the  quantity  be  not  sufficient  to  distend  the 
stomach,  so  that  the  churning  motion  of  the  muscular  coats  can 
affect  every  part  of  the  food,  the  digestion  is  imperfect.  Dys- 
pepsia is  often  caused  by  lack  of  sufficient  quantity  of  food,  and 
by  weakness  of  the  muscles  of  the  stomach.  If  this  requisite 
quantity  be  wholly  nutritious  or  highly  condensed  food,  capable 
of  entire  absorption,  the  effect  is  too  stimulating,  and  serious 
disorders  of  the  alimentary  canal  are  the  result.  To  remedy 
this,  it  is  necessary  to  have  a  certain  amount  of  innutritious 


Proportion  of  Food.  467 

food,  which  furnishes  the  bulk  required,  and  gives  all  parts  of 
the  digestive  apparatus  their  proper  amount  of  work  to  perform. 

Many  persons  argue  in  favor  of  a  vegetable  diet,  as  we  can 
obtain  from  vegetables  al)  the  necessary  elements.  There  have 
been  many  cases  known  where  people  lived  to  an  extreme  age 
who  used  exclusively  a  vegetable  diet,  and  others  who  lived 
equally  as  long  upon  animal  food.  But  the  general  rule  is,  that 
we  find  the  highest  degree  of  bodily  and  mental  vigor  only 
among  those  who  make  use  of  a  mixed  diet.  One  of  the  strong- 
est physiological  arguments  in  favor  of  this  rule  is  found  in  the 
structure  and  conformation  of  the  teeth  and  alimentary  canal. 
Part  of  the  teeth  are  of  the  carnivorous,  or  flesh-eating  kind, 
and  part  of  the  herbivorous,  or  vegetable-eating  kind.  The 
alimentary  canal  is  equally  well  adapted  to  the  digestion  of  ani- 
mal or  vegetable  food,  or  an  admixture  of  both.  The  proper 
proportion,  by  weight,  is  one  third  of  animal,  and  two  thirds  of 
vegetable  food. 

*'  Nature  has  given  us  an  unerring  guide  to  a  proper  choice  of 
diet.  An  unperverted  appetite  is  the  voice  of  the  physical  sys- 
tem making  known  its  needs,  and  it  may  always  be  trusted  to 
indicate  the  food  necessary  to  the  preservation  of  health.  But 
as  the  voice  of  nature  is  often  unheeded,  it  is  necessary  to  exer- 
cise intelligence  in  selecting  our  food  and  adapting  it  to  the 
circumstances  of  life.  By  a  proper  choice  we  can  often  coun- 
teract the  effects  of  a  violation  of  nature's  laws." 


ADAPTATION  OF  FOOD  TO  CLIMATE,  AGE,  OCCU- 
PATION,  AND  STATE   OF  HEALTH. 

In  examining  the  foods  adopted  by  different  nations  and 
classes  of  people,  we  find  that  many  choose  instinctively  the 
kind  best  adapted  to  their  individual  needs.  The  climate,  occu- 
pation, and  water  influence  their  choice. 

Climate.  —  Animal  food  is  better  for  cold  than  for  hot  cli- 
mates. We  breathe  more  rapidly,  take  in  more  oxygen  in  cold 
weather,  and  the  internal  fire  burns  up  more  of  the  food.  We 
exercise  more,  and  this  causes  more  rapid  wearing  out  of  muscle 
and  flesh.  Fat  meat  is  not  digested  easily  unless  exercise  be 
taken  freely;  more  oxygen  must  be  mixed  with  it  to  produce 
heat  than  is  required  for  sugar  and  starch.  In  summer,  when 
we  exercise  less,  the  vaste  is  less,  and  we  need  less  warmth' 


468  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

giving  food.  The  starch  and  sugar  obtained  from  fruits  and 
vegetables  are  easily  digested,  and  furnish  sufficient  warmth. 
The  Esquimaux  or  Greenlander  consumes  a  large  quantity  of 
fat,  or  blubber  oil,  the  most  condensed  form  of  carbonaceous 
food.  This  gives  him  the  amount  of  heat  necessary  in  an  ex- 
tremely cold  climate.  With  this  blubber  he  mixes  some  indi- 
gestible substances  to  give  the  needed  bulk  for  the  perfect 
action  of  the  stomach.  The  people  of  Norway,  Sweden,  and 
Russia  use  large  quantities  of  oily  fish.  In  China,  India,  and 
other  extremely  hot  climates,  rice  is  the  universal  food.  Rice 
contains  a  very  small  amount  of  flesh-forming  material,  being 
mostly  starch,  which  is  changed  into  sugar  by  the  action  of  the 
saliva.  The  natives  of  rice-eating  countries  owe  much  of  their 
lack  of  spirit  and  energy  to  this  defective  diet.  But  when  eaten 
with  butter  or  olive  oil,  and  made  into  curries,  pilaf ,  and  pilau, 
with  a  small  amount  of  flesh  or  fish,  it  supplies  all  the  elements 
necessary  for  life  in  such  climates.  The  Spaniard  in  his  olla 
podrida  —  a  stew  of  peas,  bacon,  or  fowl,  with  red  pepper  —  finds 
all  the  necessary  elements.  The  red  pepper,  used  *so  largely  in 
the  curries  and  other  dishes  common  to  hot  climates,  stimulates 
the  liver,  which  is  naturally  weakened  by  the  long-continued 
heat,  and  thus  assists  digestion.  The  Arab  chooses  dates , parched 
grains,  mare's  or  camel's  milk.  The  Turk  adds  to  these  melons 
and  cucumbers.  As  we  come  northward  again,  we  find  more 
flesh-forming  material  in  the  polenta  (a  dish  made  of  Indian 
corn)  and  the  chestnuts,  macaroni,  and  cheese  used  by  the  Italians. 
The  pot-au-feu  is  the  principal  dish  of  every  peasant  in  France. 
This  furnishes  the  cheapest  form  of  nutriment,  and  contains  all 
the  necessary  elements  of  food. 

Tne  waters  of  a  country  sometimes  determine  the  national 
food.  In  Ireland,  where  the  waters  are  strongly  impregnated 
with  lime,  they  furnish  what  the  potato,  which  is  richer  in  pot- 
ash and  soda,  lacks.  When  potatoes  are  combined  with  cabbage 
and  pork,  as  in  kolcannon,  the  flesh-forming  element  is  supplied; 
and  this,  on  account  of  the  cost  of  meat,  the  laboring  classes  are 
unable  to  obtain  in  any  other  form.  In  England  and  Scotland, 
where  the  waters  are  soft,  oats  and  wheat,  which  are  rich  in 
phosphates,  are  the  staple  diet.  When  combined  with  milk, 
eggs,  rice,  peas,  beans,  bacon,  and  cheese,  their  food  is  complete. 

To  satisfy  the  natural  instinct  to  obtain  these  five  elements, 
we  all  prefer  our  bread  with  butter  or  cream,  our  meat  with 
potatoes,  our  rice  with  butter,  milk,  or  eggs;  our  fish  we  cook 
in  fat;  we  eat  liver  with  bacon  and  ham,  or  bacon  with  eggs; 


Choice  of  Food.  469 


we  eat  cheese  with  crackers,  butter  with  cauliflower  or  cabbage, 
salt  with  all  vegetables,  oil  with  salad,  and  fresh  vegetables  with 
salt  meat.  Fruits  and  foods  intended  to  be  eaten  raw  contain  a 
large  proportion  of  water.  This  is  supplied,  when  lessened  by 
evaporation,  by  cooking  and  soaking  in  water.  In  cooking 
meats,  we  endeavor  to  retain  all  the  juices,  which  are  largely 
water.  In  spring  we  crave  fresh  green  vegetables  and  salads, 
that  we  may  have  the  potash  salts  of  which  there  has  been  a 
deficiency  in  the  winter  diet. 

Occupation  affects  our  choice  of  diet.  Persons  engaged  in  sed- 
entary occupations  cannot  digest  as  much  nor  as  easily  as  those 
who  labor  out  of  doors.  They  should  have  food  that  gives  the 
greatest  amount  of  nourishment  in  the  smallest  compass,  and  it 
should  be  served  in  the  most  digestible  form.  Those  who  tax 
their  brains  severely  should  have  animal  food  and  the  most 
digestible  forms  of  starchy  and  warmth-giving  foods.  Those 
who  exercise  freely  in  the  open  air  may  take  a  larger  quantity, 
and  it  need  not  be  the  most  digestible,  as  they  require  food  that 
will  stay  by  them.  The  laborer  instinctively  prefers  potatoes 
underdone,  or  "with  a  bone  in  them;"  and  he  chooses  salt 
meat,  not  only  because  it  is  cheaper,  but  because  it  stands  by 
him  longer.  The  salt  causes  him  to  drink  water  freely,  and 
this  supplies  the  waste  caused  by  excessive  perspiration.  A 
diet  of  vegetables,  peas,  beans,  cheese,  oatmeal,  bacon,  and 
the  cheaper,  more  indigestible  parts  of  meat  properly  cooked, 
is  suitable  for  laboring  people. 

State  of  Health.  — In  selecting  food  with  reference  to  health  it 
must  be  remembered  that  there  are  certain  general  rules  which 
have  been  established  by  the  best  authorities  through  many  ages 
and  in  a  great  variety  of  circumstances;  there  are,  however, 
some  exceptions  to  these  general  rules.  Milk  is  considered  a 
wholesome  food,  yet  there  are  some  persons  who  cannot  take  it. 
Cheese  is  a  cheap  and  nourishing  food  for  laboring  people,  but 
there  are  some  persons  to  whom  it  is  an  active  poison.  This  is 
also  true  of  oysters  and  strawberries.  These  exceptions  are 
owing  to  some  idiosyncrasy  of  the  palate  or  weakness  of  the 
digestive  organs,  and  should  be  regarded  only  as  exceptions, 
which  do  not  affect  the  general  principle. 

The  application  of  these  general  principles,  given  throughout 
this  book  in  connection  with  the  various  articles  used  as  food, 
must  be  left  to  each  individual;  but  to  those  who  have  given 
the  subject  no  serious  study  a  few  hints  may  be  helpful.  They 
will  be  found  in  the  article  treating  of  Cooking  for  the  Invalid. 


470  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


NOURISHING  AND  STIMULATING  FOOD. 

There  is  another  classification  of  food  which  it  is  well  to  con- 
sider briefly.  In  its  effect  upon  the  system  food  is  nourishing 
and  stimulating,  or  the  reverse. 

Nourishing  foods  are  those  which  serve  to  develop  perfectly 
avery  animal  function,  but  do  not  increase  the  strength  and 
speed  of  organic  action  beyond  the  point  of  full  nutrition. 
Bread,  vegetables,  fruits,  sugar,  salt,  and  water  are  nourishing- 
foods. 

Nourishing  and  Stimulating  Food.  —  All  food  that  nourishes 
the  body  is  in  one  sense  stimulating,  as  it  gives  renewed  energy 
to  the  bodily  functions.  But  there  are  foods  which  impart  a 
speed  and  energy  to  the  organs  above  that  necessary  to  per- 
fect nutrition;  these  are  termed  stimulating  foods.  Animal 
food  is  of  this  class. 

Stimulants.  —  Alcoholic  drinks  and  condiments  are  classed  as 
stimulants,  because  they  impart  no  nourishment,  but  act  simply 
as  excitants  to  preternatural  activity. 

Innutritious  foods  are  those  which  are  not  assimilated ;  which 
are  by  nature  indigestible,  or  have  been  made  so  by  improper 
combinations  and  modes  of  cooking.  The  bran  of  wheat,  fried 
or  greasy  food,  heavy  bread,  and  rich  soggy  pastry  are  either 
entirely  unassimilated,  and  therefore  not  nourishing,  or  they 
weaken  the  system  by  exciting  particular  organs  to  excessive 
action . 


Digestion.  47 1 


DIGESTION. 

IN  studying  digestion,  it  is  well  to  keep  in  mind  the  twofold 
division  of  food  into  nitrogenous,  or  flesh-forming,  and  carbona- 
ceous, or  heat-producing,  elements.  The  process  of  digestion 
differs  with  the  character  of  the  food.  The  purpose  of  diges- 
tion is  to  change  and  combine  all  the  elements  of  food  into  a 
fluid  which  will  mingle  with  the  blood,  become  assimilated,  and 
furnish  nutriment  for  the  body. 

Digestion  is  not  confined  to  the  stomach.  It  begins  with  in- 
salivation  in  the  mouth,  and,  after  deglutition,  is  carried  on  in  the 
stomach  and  intestines,  the  process  continuing  through  the  entire 
length  of  the  alimentary  canal,  —  a  tube  varying  in  diameter, 
and  thirty-six  feet  in  length. 

The  first  process  in  digestion,  as  in  any  chemical  analysis,  is 
to  crush  the  materials.  The  teeth  are  the  grinders  for  reducing 
the  food.  If  we  bolt  our  food  or  swallow  it  in  lumps,  the  soft 
coats  of  the  stomach  are  made  to  do  the  tearing  and  grinding 
work  of  the  teeth.  A  solvent  being  necessary,  the  saliva  is 
secreted  from  the  blood,  and  is  poured  through  three  pairs  of 
glands  into  the  mouth,  each  pair  supplying  a  different  saliva. 
This  softens  the  starch  and  tender  cellulose.  Animals,  like  the 
beaver,  which  feed  chiefly  on  woody  matters,  have  very  large 
salivary  .glands. 

In  health  the  saliva  is  always  alkaline,  especially  during  and 
after  meals.  It  lubricates  the  mouth,  and  moistens  the  food  so 
that  it  may  assume  a  pasty  condition.  It  is  also  necessary  to 
the  sense  of  taste,  everything  being  tasteless  that  the  saliva  can- 
not dissolve.  For  this  reason  we  cook  and  season  our  food  so 
that  it  will  excite  the  flow  of  the  saliva. 

"  This  saliva  is  poured  into  the  mouth  not  to  be  cast  out,  but  to 
do  a  specific  work,  then  pass  into  the  stomach  and  be  again  ab- 
sorbed. If  the  system  be  drained  of  the  saliva  by  profuse  spit- 
ting, as  is  the  case  with  those  who  use  tobacco  freely,  the  order 
of  bodily  functions  is  reversed,  and  the  mouth  is  made  to  do  the 
work  of  the  kidneys,  which  is  to  carry  away  a  large  amount  of 
the  superfluous  water  and  all  the  waste  salts." 


472  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  saliva  consists  mostly  of  water,  with  a  very  small  amount  of 
saline  matter  and  about  five  parts  in  one  thousand  of  ptyalin,  an 
albuminous  ingredient,  or  ferment,  which  has  the  power  of  con- 
verting the  starchy  portions  of  food  into  sugar,  and  sugar  into 
lactic  acid,  but  does  not  act  upon  nitrogenous  food.  The  saliva 
froths  easily,  and  aids  in  carrying  air  into  the  stomach. 

This  is  the  first  step  in  digestion,  and  the  most  important,  as 
any  error  in  the  beginning  leads  to  evil  consequences  which  affect 
the  whole  process.  It  is  also  important,  because  it  is  wholly  a 
voluntary  process.  While  the  food  is  in  the  mouth,  we  may 
masticate  it  thoroughly  or  imperfectly,  and  swallow  or  reject 
it.  But  when  deglutition  has  carried  it  into  the  stomach,  it  is 
wholly  beyond  our  control,  and  we  are  not  responsible  for  the 
remainder  of  the  process,  only  so  far  as  it  may  be  affected  by 
error  in  the  first  stages.  Bread,  potatoes,  and  all  starchy  foods 
should  be  thoroughly  masticated,  and  mingled  with  the  saliva. 
Meat  may  be  swallowed  hastily,  or  knives  may  be  made  to  do 
the  work  of  the  teeth  in  masticating  animal  food ;  but  no  chemist 
can  prepare  an  artificial  saliva  to  be  mixed  with  starchy  food,  to 
save  the  trouble  of  chewing  it.  If  a  piece  of  dry  light  bread  be 
masticated  thoroughly,  it  will  crumble  and  be  quickly  mixed 
with  the  saliva,  and  become  sweeter  the  longer  it  is  kept  in  the 
mouth.  The  alkaline  saliva  changes  the  starch  into  sugar,  and 
begins  the  digestion.  Try  to  chew  a  piece  of  hot  bread  and  it 
at  once  assumes  a  pasty  condition,  which  neither  teeth  nor  saliva 
can  penetrate,  and  is  swallowed  involuntarily.  A  piece  of  putty 
would  not  be  more  indigestible.  If  this  experiment  be  tried, 
no  other  argument  would  be  needed  against  the  use  of  hot 
bread. 

The  stomach  carries  on  the  second  part  of  digestion.  The 
presence  of  food  excites  the  flow  of  a  fluid  called  the  gastric  juice, 
which  is  secreted  in  large  quantities  in  the  mucous  mem- 
brane of  the  stomach.  At  the  same  time  the  muscular  coats 
of  the  stomach  contract,  and  produce  a  sort  of  churning  motion, 
which  carries  the  food  round  and  round  and  over  and  over,  ex- 
posing all  parts  of  it  to  the  action  of  the  fluid.  This  gastric 
juice  is  always  decidedly  acid  in  its  nature,  containing  hydro- 
chloric acid.  The  lactic  acid  formed  from  the  sugar  in  the 
mouth  is  also  present  in  the  stomach.  This  acid  arrests  the 
work  begun  in  the  mouth  on  the  starchy  foods,  renders  the  alkali 
neutral,  and  acts  only  on  albuminous  food.  It  contains  an 
albuminous  ingredient,  or  ferment,  called  pepsin,  in  about  the 
same  proportion  as  the  ptyalin  of  the  saliva.  The  pepsin 


Digestion.  473 


mixed  with  the  lactic  acid  is  powerful  enough  to  dissolve  all 
the  albumen  and  fibrine  of  flesh  food  into  albuminose,  and  sets 
free  the  starch,  sugar,  and  fat,  melts  the  fat,  but  does  not 
change  either.  When  there  is  an  excess  or  deficiency  of  acid 
in  the  stomach,  the  digestion  is  abnormal.  Pepsin  is  sometimes 
used  as  a  remedy  for  dyspepsia,  and  is  obtained  from  the 
stomachs  of  young,  healthy  pigs  which  are  kept  hungry. 

As  all  food  which  is  to  nourish  the  system  must  be  converted 
into  a  fluid  form,  any  substances  which  are  taken  in  fluid 
form  and  afterward  solidified  in  the  stomach,  as  blood  or  juice 
of  flesh,  milk,  and  raw  eggs,  must  be  changed  again  to  a  per- 
manent liquid  form  before  they  can  be  absorbed.  All  nitro- 
genous matters  are  not  only  dissolved  by  the  gastric  fluid,  but 
are  modified  so  as  to  remain  dissolved.  These  changed  albu- 
minous matters  are  called  peptones.  Oil  plays  an  important 
part  in  these  changes,  so  that,  although  oil  is  not  digested,  it 
serves  a  useful  purpose  in  passing  through  the  stomach. 

The  stomach  would  digest  itself  were  it  not  protected  by  a 
sheathing  of  mucus  and  by  a  continual  forming  of  cells  called 
epithelium,  during  the  process  of  digestion.  The  liquid  or  watery 
portions  of  food  enter  at  once  into  the  circulation  by  absorption. 
If  too  much  water  be  taken  with  food,  it  dilutes  the  gastric 
juice  and  retards  the  digestion;  as  all  that  is  not  needed  must 
be  absorbed  before  digestion  can  go  on. 

Digestion  is  also  retarded  by  the  presence  of  very  hot  or  very 
cold  food,  as  everything  taken  into  the  stomach  has  to  be 
changed  to  the  normal  temperature  of  100r .  A  large  amount  of 
food  overloads  the  stomach,  distends  the  muscular  coats,  and 
lessens  the  power  of  motion.  Too  little  food  is  also  a  mistake, 
as  the  stomach  needs  a  certain  amount  of  bulk  to  work  upon. 
Continual  or  irregular  eating  is  wholly  contrary  to  the  intention 
of  nature,  since  it  does  not  allo>/  the  stomach  time  to  rest  and 
to  form  new  cells  to  secrete  digestive  fluids.  Flesh  food  that 
is  finely  minced,  like  hash,  croquettes,  and  many  entrees,  passes 
rapidly  through  the  stomach  without  being  dissolved  by  the 
gastric  juice;  but  when  taken  in  larger  pieces  it  remains  long 
enough  to  be  all  digested. 

The  digestive  power  of  the  stomach  is  weakened  when  there 
is  any  undue  action  in  any  other  part  of  the  body,  as  in  great 
muscular  exertion  or  in  powerful  excitement  of  the  brain. 
Therefore  we  should  eat  sparingly  at  first,  when  fatigued  by 
exercise  or  study  or  when  unduly  excited,  and  should  rest 
awhile  after  eating. 


474  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Lactic  acid,  small  portions  of  sugar  and  digested  nitrogenous 
substances,  pass  into  the  blood  by  absorption  through  the 
stomach  veins.  Thus  the  contents  of  the  stomach  leave  it  in 
two  directions :  a  portion  is  absorbed  through  the  coats  of  the 
stomach  by  the  process  of  osmose,  or  the  passage  of  fluids 
through  animal  membranes ;  the  remainder  passes  through  the 
pyloric  opening  into  the  duodenum  and  intestines  for  the  com- 
pletion of  digestion.  Food  from  the  stomach  enters  the  duode- 
num in  an  acid  state,  and  in  the  intestines  is  mingled  with 
three  alkaline  fluids,  all  containing  soda. 

The  pancreatic  fluid,  secreted  from  the  pancreas,  digests  the 
fatty  matters.  It  breaks  the  large  granules  of  oil  and  fat  into  a 
great  many  minute  particles,  and  converts  them  into  a  milky 
liquid  called  chyle,  which  mixes  freely  with  water  and  passes 
through  the  tissues  of  the  intestines  into  the  lacteals.  It  also 
changes  the  starch  into  sugar,  and  the  sugar  into  lactic  acid,  but 
has  very  little  action  on  albuminous  substances. 

The  bile,  secreted  from  the  liver,  plays  an  important  part  in 
intestinal  digestion,  the  exact  nature  of  which  is  unknown. 
Bile  is  a  complex  liquid,  consisting  of  biliary  acid  in  combina- 
tion with  soda.  It  certainly  aids  in  the  absorption  of  fat,  and 
many  suppose  its  purpose  is  to  lubricate  the  walls  of  the  intes- 
tinal canal;  from  its  soapy  consistency  it  effects  a  smooth,  non- 
irritating  passage  of  the  contents.  If  there  be  any  lack  or 
surplus  of  the  bile,  it  soon  produces  an  injurious  result  in  the 
system.  The  bile  is  in  the  intestines,  and  not  in  the  stomach 
except  when  the  act. on  of  the  stomach  is  inverted,  in  nausea 
and  vomiting;  then  the  bile  is  forced  up  into  the  stomach  in- 
stead of  down  into  the  intestines. 

The  intestinal  juice,  secreted  in  the  mucous  membrane  the 
entire  length  of  the  intestine,  combines  the  active  and  digestive 
powers  of  all  the  other  secretions. 

The  lactic  acid  is  formed  so  rapidly  from  the  digestion  of 
sugar  that  the  contents  of  the  intestine  quickly  becomes  acidu- 
lous, and  this  completes  the  digestion  of  any  portions  of  nitro- 
genous food  not  fully  digested  in  the  stomach.  The  combined 
amount  of  the  salivary,  gastric,  pancreatic,  biliary,  and  intes- 
tinal fluids  secreted  daily  is  twenty-one  pints,  of  which  the 
gastric  juice  forms  more  than  one  half.  There  are  mechanical 
aids  to  intestinal  as  well  as  stomach  digestion.  The  writhing, 
worm-like  motion,  or  peristaltic  movement,  of  the  muscular  coats 
of  the  intestines  forces  the  food  downward,  and  exposes  all 
portions  of  it  to  the  digestive  fluids. 


Absorption.  475 


Notwithstanding  all  these  powerful  agents  in  digestion,  a 
portion  of  useful  matter  passes  through  the  intestines  un- 
changed; and  if  there  be  a  deficiency  of  either  fluid,  or  a 
weakness  of  the  muscular  coats,  or  too  great  a  quantity  of  irri- 
tating substance,  like  cellulose,  woody  fibre,  bran,  etc.,  the 
amount  is  increased.  This  is  carried,  with  the  innutritions 
portion,  into  the  larger  intestine,  and  forms  a  part  of  the 
excretions. 


ABSORPTION. 

The  nutritive  and  perfectly  digested  portions  of  food  are 
absorbed  partly  by  the  veins  of  the  stomach,  entering  at  once 
into  the  circulation,  and  partly  by  the  intestines.  The  lining 
membrane  of  the  intestines  folds  over  and  over  upon  itself,  like 
a  ruffle,  along  the  entire  edge;  this  is  full  of  little  tubes,  or  vilii, 
which  absorb  the  chyle. 

The  blood  vessels  absorb  the  nutritive  elements  from  the  villi 
and  carry  them  to  the  veins  in  two  ways:  1st.  Through  the 
portal  vein  into  the  liver,  where  it  penetrates  every  part  of  the 
liver,  then  passes  out  through  the  hepatic  vein  into  the  veins 
near  the  heart;  2d.  Through  the  lacteals,  which  are  attached  to 
the  lining  membrane  of  the  intestines  and  empty  into  the 
thoracic  duct,  a  tube  extending  along  the  spine,  and  then  into 
the  subclavian  vein,  which  lies  in  the  left  side  of  the  neck, 
under  the  collar  bone.  The  veins  also  bring  with  them  the 
lymph,  —  a  thin  colorless  fluid  which  comes  from  the  absorbent 
vessels  situated  all  over  the  body,  and  which  contains  the 
worn-out  particles. 

Then  the  venous  blood,  supplied  from  the  lacteals  with  new 
material,  and  from  the  lymphatic  vessels  with  waste  materials, 
enters  the  heart  through  the  upper  door,  or  right  auricle,  passes 
through  the  valves  down  into  the  right  ventricle ;  out  through 
the  pulmonary  artery  into  the  lungs,  where,  as  purple  venous 
blood,  it  penetrates  to  the  most  remote  capillaries. 

If  the  lungs  be  full  of  pure  fresh  air,  the  oxygen  changes  the 
purple  blood  into  red  blood,  and  burns  up  the  impurities.  The 
waste  products  of  the  combustion  of  carbon  and  hydrogen  are 
expelled  from  the  lungs  at  every  breath  in  the  form  of  carbonic 
acid  and  watery  vapor;  and  not  until  now  can  the  new  elements 
in  the  blood,  obtained  from  the  food,  become  in  reality  food,  or 
perfect  blood. 


476  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

This  oxygenized  or  vitalized  blood  now  returns  from  the  lungs, 
and  enters  the  heart  through  the  left  upper  door,  or  left  auricle ; 
the  valves  open  and  allow  it  to  pass  into  the  left  ventricle, 
then  out  through  the  aorta,  or  great  artery,  from  which  the 
arteries  carry  it  to  the  capillaries  all  over  the  system. 

In  the  capillaries  the  new  material  is  deposited  wherever 
needed,  and  changed  by  cell  growth  into  new  tissue.  The 
lymphatic  vessels  take  up  all  that  is  not  needed,  with  the 
worn-out  portions ;  and  the  veins  then  carry  this  impure  blood 
back  again  to  the  lungs  and  heart. 

Thus  a  continuous  circulation  is  established,  the  blood  coursing 
over  the  whole  body  once  in  every  three  to  five  minutes,  the  time 
varying  with  the  amount  of  exercise  and  the  state  of  health. 
During  this  circulation  the  combustible  compounds  are  burned 
by  the  oxygen  received  into  the  blood  in  the  lungs,  the  carbona- 
ceous products  of  combustion  are  expelled  through  the  lungs  as 
carbonic  acid  gas  and  watery  vapor,  and  the  nitrogenous  pro- 
ducts through  the  kidneys  in  the  form  of  urates. 

"  This  process  of  digestion  and  absorption  is  really  a  kind  of 
preliminary  cooking  process,  going  on  from  the  mouth  downwards 
all  the  way  to  the  colon ;  and  from  every  part  of  the  long  canal 
tiny  lacteals  and  absorbing  veinlets  carry  off  contributions  of 
food  either  to  the  general  store  of  chyle,  or  to  the  venous  blood 
which  is  hurrying  back  to  the  heart." 


NUTRITION. 

**  Albumen  is  the  basis  of  all  animal  nutrition.  This  is  seen 
in  the  bird's  egg  during  incubation.  Under  the  influence  of 
warmth  and  oxygen,  all  the  tissues,  membranes,  and  bones  are 
developed  from  albumen." 

In  the  human  body  a  nutritious  fluid  is  prepared  from  the 
food,  and  supplies  materials  for  growth  and  repair.  This  fluid 
is  the  blood,  and  when  examined  under  the  microscope  is  found 
to  consist  of  a  clear  colorless  fluid,  of  a  saline,  alkaline,  and 
albuminous  nature,  and  an  immense  number  of  infinitely  minute 
blood  globules,  or  corpuscles.  These  corpuscles  consist  of  an 
albuminous  membrane  called  globulin,  filled  with  a  red  coloring 
matter,  hematine,  in  which  there  is  much  iron. 

This  liquid  albuminous  portion  of  the  blood  must  be  changed 
to  fibrine  before  it  can  nourish  the  muscles  of  the  body.  The 


Nutrition.  477 


change  of  the  gluten,  caseine,  and  all  the  varieties  of  albuminous 
food  into  fibrine  is  a  gradual  process,  begun  in  the  lacteals,  con- 
tinued in  the  circulation  of  the  blood,  and  completed  in  the  lungs 
by  the  oxygen  which  they  receive  in  breathing.  This  fibrine 
remains  in  the  liquid  state,  owing  to  the  alkaline  nature  of  the 
blood,  and  is  distributed  by  the  circulation  into  all  parts  of  the 
structure,  where  it  gradually  coagulates  into  a  network  of  tough 
thread-like  fibres,  enclosing  in  its  meshes  the  blood  corpuscles, 
and  is  changed  by  cell  growth  into  new  tissue,  solid  flesh  and 
bone. 

The  nervous  system  is  also  built  and  repaired  from  albumen. 
Nervous  matter  is  about  seven  per  cent  albumen,  and  is  the 
material  by  which  we  are  put  into  relation  with  tLe  external 
world.  By  it  we  see,  hear,  feel,  taste,  smell,  and  are  conscious 
of  existence. 

Each  elementary  cell  or  particle  of  tissue,  whether  of  bone, 
flesh,  or  nerves,  seems  to  have  a  sort  of  gland-like  power,  not 
only  of  attracting  materials  from  the  blood,  but  of  causing  them 
to  assume  its  structure  and  participate  in  its  properties.  The 
bones  and  teeth  select  and  appropriate  the  phosphates  of  lime, 
and  magnesia,  also  fluorine.  The  muscles  and  nerves  take 
fibrine,  phosphates  of  magnesia,  and  potash.  The  cartilages 
seek  for  soda;  the  hair,  skin,  and  nails  are  made  up  of  silica. 
Iron  is  needed  in  the  coloring  matter  of  the  blood,  the  black 
pigment  of  the  eye,  and  in  the  hair.  Sulphur  exists  in  the  hair, 
and  phosphorus  in  the  brains.  The  glands  of  the  mouth  take 
the  substances  necessary  to  form  saliva;  those  of  the  eye,  the 
elements  of  tears;  the  coats  of  the  stomach,  gastric  juice;  and 
the  liver,  bile.  Each  part  of  the  body  has  the  power  to  select, 
from  the  common  supply,  the  material  which  suits  it  best  for 
building  and  growing. 

If  the  conversion  of  albumen  into  fibrine  be  incomplete,  the 
tissues  are  imperfectly  nourished.  The  formation  of  tubercles 
in  the  lungs  is  caused  by  half -formed  cells  and  coagulated  albu- 
men deposited  in  the  lungs.  This  is  caused  by  a  deficiency  of 
the  oily  matter,  which  is  necessary  for  the  perfect  formation  of 
cells  and  the  growth  of  healthy  tissue.  Hence  for  these  cases 
physicians  prescribe  cod-liver  oil. 

Distilled  spirits  coagulate  the  albumen  which  ought  to  go 
into  the  blood;  this  prevents  the  proper  digestion  of  food,  and 
causes  one  of  the  great  evils  resulting  from  their  use.  The  i?er- 
vous  tissue  is  thus  deprived  of  nourishment,  which  is  one  of  the 
causes  of  delirium  tremeiis. 


478  The  Boston  Cook  Booh 

Every  twinge  of  pain  in  neuralgia  is  the  nerves  crying  out 
for  better  blood.  Imperfect  digestion  and  assimilation  of  food 
are  the  chief  causes  of  neuralgia. 

Nutrition,  though  seemingly  complex,  is  really  a  simple  pro- 
cess; albumen  is  changed  to  fibrine,  and  fibrine  to  flesh.  The 
relation  of  each  to  the  other  has  been  aptly  compared  to  that  of 
the  raw  cotton,  the  spun  yarn,  and  the  woven  fabric. 

The  minute  corpuscles  in  the  blood  are  constantly  building  up 
the  body,  very  much  as  the  coral  insect  builds  its  structure.  The 
work  of  each  corpuscle  is  too  small  for  our  conception ;  but,  taken 
in  the  aggregate,  the  result  is  the  wonderful  growth  and  renova- 
tion of  the  human  body.  And  what  is  still  more  wonderful, 
every  organ  of  the  body  is  on  the  alert  to  keep  the  whole  system 
in  natural  health.  The  activity  of  the  vessels  which  remove 
the  waste  particles  from  the  blood  is  untiring.  The  kidneys 
are  the  scavengers  of  the  body,  and  stand  next  to  the  lungs  in 
renovating  it.  If  too  much  water  be  drunk,  the  kidneys,  lungs, 
and  skin  carry  it  off,  for  fear  that  the  blood  should  become  too 
watery.  We  may  cease  to  convey  food  into  the  body  for  days 
with  no  evil  consequences;  but  let  the  removing  organs  cease 
operations  for  a  single  day,  and  disease  ensues. 


LIFE  AND  MOTION.* 

Circulation  of  Water.  —  As  a  plant  grows,  water  from  the  soil 
or  air  unites  chemically  with  carbon,  and  forms  the  woody  fibre 
of  the  stem,  the  sugar  of  the  sap,  and  the  starch  of  the  seed. 
When  the  plant  dies,  the  water  is  again  set  free  from  its  struc- 
ture and  passes  into  the  air.  The  starch  and  sugar,  also,  which 
the  plant  yields  having  been  consumed  by  some  animal,  the 
water  which  they  contain  passes  into  the  air  through  the  lungs 
and  skin.  Thus  the  same  water  is  caused  to  revolve  in  a  circle 
of  life-sustaining  combinations.  Within  a  single  hour  it  may 
be  in  some  vegetable  structure  in  the  form  of  sugar;  then  it 
may  pass  into  and  circulate  through  some  animal  system  and 
be  discharged  as  vapor  from  the  lungs,  and  afterwards  become 

1  This  article  is  mainly  an  abstract  of  the  chapters  on  the  "Circulation 
of  Matter,"  contained  in  "Johnston's  Chemistry  of  Common  Life."  It  is 
inserted  here  as  bearing  upon  the  general  subject  of  food,  and  with  the  hope 
that  all  who  read  this  will  read  the  original. 


\ 

Life  and  Motion.  479 


absorbed  by  thirsty  leaves  and  aid  in  the  growth  of  flowers  and 
fruits. 

Circulation  of  Carbon.  —  Vegetables,  which  are  largely  starch 
and  carbon,  absorb  carbonic-acid  gas  from  the  atmosphere,  which 
contains  thirty- three  grains  of  carbon  in  every  square  inch.  If 
the  world  were  all  dry  land,  and  covered  with  dense  vegetation, 
all  the  carbon  would  be  extracted  from  the  atmosphere  in  twenty- 
three  years.  This  carbonic  acid  is  restored  to  the  atmosphere  by 
the  waste  and  decay  of  vegetable  matter^y  the  exhalations  from 
animals,  and  by  combustion. 

The  leaf  of  a  living  plant  draws  in  carbonic  acid  gas  from  the 
air,  and  gives  off  the  oxygen  contained  in  it,  retaining  only  the 
carbon.  The  roots  drink  in  moisture  from  the  soil ;  and  out  of 
the  carbon  and  water  contained  in  it  the  plant  forms  starch, 
sugar,  fat,  and  other  substances. 

The  animal  takes  the  starch,  sugar,  or  fat  into  its  stomach, 
and  draws  in  oxygen  through  its  lungs.  New  chemical  combina- 
tions are  thus  formed,  undoing  the  work  of  the  plant,  and  send- 
ing back  to  the  air,  from  the  lungs  and  skin,  both  the  starch  and 
oxygen,  in  the  form  of  carbonic-acid  gas  and  water.  The  same 
material  is  constantly  circulating,  —  now  floating  in  invisible  air, 
now  forming  the  substance  of  the  growing  plant,  now  of  the 
moving  animal,  and  now  diffusing  itself  through  the  air  ready 
to  go  its  round  again.  It  forms  part  of  a  vegetable  to-day;  to- 
morrow it  is  in  a  man's  backbone;  a  week  hence  it  may  have 
passed  through  another  plant  and  into  another  animal. 

In  burning  coal,  we  cause  its  carbon  to  unite  with  the  oxygen 
of  the  air  and  to  disappear  as  carbonic  acid  gas.  The  carbon 
returns^  to  the  atmosphere  from  which  it  may  have  been  taken 
millions  of  years  ago  when  it  was  appropriated  by  the  growing 
plants,  which,  in  the  form  of  vegetable  matter,  were  afterwards 
buried  beneath  the  surface  of  the  earth  only  to  reappear  ages 
subsequently  in  the  form  of  fuel.  The  earth  itself  breathes 
out  carbonic  acid,  sometimes  with  water,  sometimes  alone.  It 
sparkles  in  the  springs  of  Carlsbad  and  Seltzer;  it  kills  man  and 
beast  in  the  terrible  "  Valley  of  Death  "  in  the  island  of  Java. 

In  this  way  is  supplied  the  loss  of  that  which  is  daily  buried 
by  the  shell  fish  and  coral  insects  in  the  limestone  formations 
and  coral  growths.  These  rocks  contain,  chained  down  in  seem- 
ingly everlasting  imprisonment,  two  fifths  of  their  weight  of 
carbonic  acid. 

Circulation  of  Nitrogen.  —  Gluten  and  fibrine  are  distinguished 
from  starch  and  fat  by  containing  nitrogen.  The  nitrogen  forms 


480  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

four  fifths  of  the  air.  It  exists  also  in  ammonia,  and  in  aqua 
fortis,  or  nitric  acid.  These  two  compound  bodies  exist  and  are 
found  in  the  soil;  and  from  the  soil  the  nitrogen  is  taken  up  by 
the  plants,  and  gluten  is  formed.  When  the  animal  consumes 
the  gluten,  it  builds  up  and  renews  the  waste  of  its  several  parts. 
The  gluten  of  the  plant  is  transformed  into  the  flesh  and  tissues 
of  the  living  animal.  '  Thus  the  nitrogen  of  the  soil  through 
the  plant  has  reached  the  dignity  of  being  a  part  of  breathing, 
intellectual  man. 

Having  reached  this  form,  this  restless  element,  nitrogen, 
grows  weary  of  inactivity  and  moves  on.  Not  only  the  living 
body  as  a  whole  is  in  constant  motion,  but  even  its  minutest 
parts  are  continually  active.  "  They  are  like  the  population  of 
a  great  city  moving  to  and  fro,  coming  and  going  continually, 
weeded  out  and  removed  every  hour  by  deaths  and  departures, 
yet  as  unceasingly  kept  up  in  numbers  by  new  in-comers,  chang- 
ing from  day  to  day  so  insensibly  as  to  escape  observation,  yet 
so  evidently  that  after  a  few  years  scarcely  a  known  face  can 
be  discovered  among  the  congregated  thousands."  Scarcely  has 
the  gluten  of  the  plant  been  fitted  comfortably  to  its  place  in  the 
muscle,  the  skin,  or  the  hair  of  the  animal,  when  it  begins  to  be 
dissolved  again  and  is  removed. 

The  living  animal  absorbs  much  oxygen  from  the  air  by  its 
lungs.  One  part  of  it  converts  the  carbon  of  the  food  into  car- 
bonic acid;  another  portion  is  built  into  the  substance  of  the 
body ;  a  large  part  is  employed  in  dissolving  and  removing  the 
waste  in  urea,  uric  acid,  etc.  This  urea  and  uric  acid  return  to 
the  soil  from  which  the  nitrogen  they  contain  originally  came, 
and  where  they  are  reconverted  into  ammonia,, nitric  acid,  and 
other  substances,  and  are  now  ready  to  enter  into  new  roots  and 
go  the  rounds  again. 

The  undigested  gluten  is  rejected  in  the  animal  droppings, 
mingles  with  the  soil,  and  is  changed  to  ammonia  and  nitric 
acid.  The  vegetables  which  die  undergo  natural  decay,  and 
again  enter  the  soil  and  air  as  elements.  Animal  bodies  them- 
selves die  at  last,  and  the  nitrogen  they  contain  is  made  to  assume 
the  forms  in  which  plants  are  able  to  take  it  up.  The  ammonia 
and  volatile  compounds  of  nitrogen,  produced  by  animal  and 
vegetable  decay,  rise  in  the  form  of  gas  or  vapor,  and  escape 
into  the  air.  The  rains  of  heaven  wash  the  ammonia  out  and 
bring  it  back  to  the  earth.  Part  of  it  is,  however,  resolved  into 
elementary  nitrogen,  and  is  thus  lost  to  plants.  To  make  up 
for  this  loss,  nitric  acid  is  formed  in  the  air  in  small  quantities. 


Circulation  of  Matter.  481 

Through  the  agency  of  the  electric  currents  the  oxygen  and 
nitrogen  of  the  air  unite  to  form  nitric  acid.  Ammonia  is  given 
off  by  volcanoes,  and  is  returned  to  the  earth  by  the  rains  and 
snows. 

Circulation  of  Mineral  Matter.  —  Everything  which  the  animal 
body  contains  is  derived,  directly  or  indirectly,  from  vegetable 
foods;  and  the  mineral  or  ash  it  leaves,  wlaen  burned,  must  have 
come  from  the  soil  through  the  plant.  When  the  animal  dies, 
its  body  sooner  or  later  returns  to  the  soil.  So  we  have  another 
circle  in  which  the  earthy  matter  of  animals  and  plants  moves. 
It  ascends  from  the  soil  to  the  plant,  then  to  the  animal,  and 
back  again  to  mother  earth,  so  that  it  is  really  "  dust  to  dust." 

The  plant  does  not  absorb  all  mineral  matters,  but  selects  the 
rarer  and  more  precious  materials  from  the  soil,  and  such  as  are 
held  in  solution  by  water.  Phosphoric  acid,  lime,  magnesia,  and 
saline  matter,  of  which  common  salt  is  a  representative,  are  the 
principal  substances  chosen.  The  animal  eating  the  vegetable, 
these  substances  enter  its  stomach,  and  are  dissolved  and  enter 
the  blood.  The  vessels  provided  for  the  purpose  select  the  re- 
quired material,  and,  like  ships  in  commerce,  sail  away  on  the 
blood  rivers  to  their  destined  havens.  The  saline  portion  is  car- 
ried to  the  blood  and  tissues.  The  phosphate  of  lime  goes  to  the 
bones,  and  phosphate  of  potash  to  the  muscles.  After  a  time 
the  animal,  partly  as  it  wastes  and  finally  when  it  dies,  returns 
to  the  soil  all  that  the  plant  took  from  it.  New  plants  receive 
it,  and  it  goes  the  rounds  again. 

So,  over  and  over  again,  as  the  modeller  fashions  his  clay,  plant 
and  animal  are  formed  out  of  the  same  material.  Is  all  sense- 
less matter  to  be  constantly  working,  and  are  we  intelligent 
beings  to  idle  away  a  precious  but  limited  existence  ?  One 
should  learn  from  this  always  to  work  for  a  definite  purpose. 

How  lovely  is  the  plant  in  its  position  of  bond-servant  of  man ! 
How  willing  and  interesting!  It  serves  till  death,  yet  rises  again 
rejoicing  as  ever,  when  spring  returns,  to  renew  its  destined 
toil. 

The  least  alteration  in  the  natural  constitution  of  things  would 
insure  the  extinction  of  animal  and  vegetable  life. 


482 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


RECAPITULATION. 


The  Plant  takes  in,  water, 
by  its  roots ;  carbonic  acid,  by 
its  leaves;  nitrogen,  in  the  form 
of  ammonia  and  nitric  acid; 
minerals,  in  the  form  of  phos- 
phoric acid,  lime,  common  and 
other  salts,  from  the  soil. 

The  Animal  takes  in,  water, 
starch,  fat,  gluten,  and  mineral 
matters,  in  the  form  of  vege- 
table and  animal  food,  into  its 
stomach;  and  oxygen  into  its 
lungs. 


The  Plant  produces,  oxygen, 
from  its  leaves ;  sugar,  starch, 
gluten,  and  mineral  matters,  in 
its  sap  and  solid  substances. 


The  Animal  produces,  car" 
bonic  acid  and  water,  which  are 
exhaled  from  the  skin  and 
lungs ;  urea,  phosphates,  and 
other  salts,  in  the  excretions; 
the  fat  in  the  body,  which  is 
in  time  breathed  away  in  the 
form  of  carbonic  acid;  water 
and  perfect  muscle,  bone,  blood, 
and  tissues,  to  build  and  repair 
the  body. 

The  Soil  produces,  carbon  in 
the  form  of  wood  and  coal,  and 
in  spring  water ;  ammonia,  ni- 
tric acid,  and  other  nitrogenous 
compounds ;  phosphoric  acid, 
lime,  common  salt,  and  other 
mineral  matters. 


So  the  movement  is  circular;  the  beginning  is  the  end.  A 
marvellous  commerce  appears;  soil,  plant,  and  animal  commin- 
gling ;  the  elements  of  each  being  at  different  times  the  elements 
of  all,  and  their  interchange  perpetual. 


The  Soil  takes  in,  urea  and 
other  animal  excretions,  dead 
animals  and  plants. 


Chocolate  Reception.  483 


ADDITIONAL  RECIPES. 


Reception     2  qts.  milk. 
Chocolate.     1  Ib.  cocoa  powder. 

3   rounded   tbsp.  white 
sugar. 


1  pt.  cream. 

2  eggs. 

3  tsp.  vanilla  extract. 


Bring  milk  to  boil,  work  the  cocoa  in  a  little  of  the 
cold  milk,  then  stir  into  the  boiling  milk  till  smooth. 
Boil  ten  minutes,  add  the  sugar  and  cream,  and  stir  well 
while  boiling.  Turn  into  a  double  boiler  and  keep  the 
water  in  lower  boiler  almost  at  boiling  point  for  half  an 
hour.  Then  beat  the  eggs  very  light,  add  them  and  re- 
move immediately  from  the  fire.  When  cool  add  the 
flavoring. 

This  can  be  made  in  the  morning,  and  when  ready  to 
serve,  put  from  one  to  two  tablespoonfuls  of  the  prepara- 
tion into  the  cup  and  fill  with  boiling  water. 

By  cooking  the  cocoa  we  have  a  much  more  delicious 
flavor  than  that  obtained  by  pouring  boiling  water  directly 
upon  the  raw  cocoa  in  the  cup.  The  eggs  and  cream 
give  body  and  richness.  It  will  serve  from  sixty  to 
eighty  people. 

Church  Sociable  Coffee.  —  If  we  follow  the  proportion 
of  one  rounded  tablespoon  or  one-half  ounce  of  coffee, 
ground,  for  each  half-pint  cup  water,  we  must  allow  one 
pound  of  coffee  for  eight  quarts  of  water.  This  will 
make  coffee  of  medium  strength  and  will  be  sufficient  for 
about  thirty  persons. 

Soak  the  coffee  one  hour  in  two  quarts  of  cold  water 
in  a  tightly  covered  jar  and  then  turn  it  into  a  cloth  bag. 
Have  the  requisite  amount  of  water  in  a  large  boiler  with 
a  tight  cover,  and  when  just  ready  to  boil,  put  in  the  bag 
of  coffee  and  the  water  in  which  it  soaked,  and  let  it  boil 
ten  minutes. 


484  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Handy  Coffee.  —  Put  six  rounded  tablespoonfuls  of 
coffee  in  a  hot  coffee-pot  or  biggin,  pour  through  it  one 
quart  boiling  water.  When  all  dripped  through,  pour  the 
liquid  through  the  grounds  again,  and  after  this  second 
filtering  let  it  come  to  the  boiling  point  and  then  bottle 
tightly.  When  coffee  is  wanted,  scald  three-fourths  cup  of 
milk,  heat  two  tablespoons  of  the  bottled  coffee  and  pour 
the  two  over  the  sugar  in  a  hot  cup. 

Quick  Rolls.  —  Dissolve  three  yeast  calces  in  one  cup  of 
water,  add  one  pint  of  milk  scalded  and  cooled,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  salt,  one  tablespoonful  of  butler,  and  two 
teaspoonfuls  of  sugar.  Stir  in  flour  enough  to  make 
a  stiff  dough,  then  knead  it  half  an  hour,  being  careful 
not  to  get  it  too  stiff.  Then  without  waiting  for  it  to 
rise,  divide  it  into  equal  portions  for  small  rolls,  and 
shape  into  balls  and  then  into  finger  rolls,  or  press 
a  small  knife  handle  or  roller  through  the  middle,  mak- 
ing cleft  rolls,  or  it  may  be  rolled  with  the  hands  into 
four  long  rolls.  Put  the  rolls  in  a  greased  pan,  cover 
with  a  cloth,  let  them  rise  about  forty-five  minutes.  Then 
bake  in  a  quick  oven  from  twenty  to  forty  minutes  ac- 
cording to  the  size.  Do  not  stop  kneading  until  the  time 
is  up,  or  let  the  dough  stand  before  shaping.  If  the 
dough  is  disturbed  after  it  begins  to  rise,  it  will  be  diffi- 
cult to  avoid  having  very  large  air  holes.  The  idea  is 
to  make  the  dough  light  quickly  by  the  large  amount  of 
yeast,  rather  than  to  exhaust  the  strength  and  elasticity 
of  the  flour  by  slow  rising.  Thus  in  less  than  two  hours 
you  will  have  bread  or  rolls  that  will  surprise  you  by 
their  lightness,  fine  texture,  and  rich  nutty  flavor.  Not 
a  trace  of  the  yeast  in  the  bread ;  light,  and  yet  unlike 
the  extreme  lightness  of  the  usual  yeast  rolls,  a  rich 
crust  that  looks  hard  but  proves  to  be  soft  and  tender, 
and  with  none  of  the  dry,  chippy  flavor  common  to  bread 
raised  over  night. 


Zwieback.  485 


Zwieback,  No.  1.  —  Scald  one  cup  milk,  add  half  a  tea- 
spoon salt,  and  when  cool,  dissolve  in  it  half  a  cake  of 
comjiressed  yeast.  Stir  in  flour  to  make  a  batter  that 
just  drops  from  the  spoon.  Let  the  bowl  stand  in  a 
pan  of  warm  (not  hot)  water,  and  when  the  sponge  is 
full  of  bubbles  add  the  following  mixture :  Two  rounded 
tablespoons  butter  creamed  with  quarter  cup  sugar,  and 
two  well  beaten  eggs. 

Add  more  flour,  and  when  stiff  knead  it  until  smooth 
and  light.  Let  it  rise  until  double  its  bulk,  then  shape 
it  into  finger  rolls  and  place  them  close  together  in  a 
shallow  pan.  Let  them  rise  again  until  very  light ;  then 
bake  in  a  hot  oven  about  half  an  hour.  The  next  day, 
or  when  thoroughly  cold,  cut  the  loaf  in  half-inch  slices 
and  let  them  stand  in  a  very  slow  oven  until  colored  and 
dry  all  through. 

Zwieback,  No.  2.  —  Scald  one  cup  milk;  when  luke- 
warm, dissolve  in  it  two  yeast  cakes,  half  a  teaspoon 
salt,  and  Jlour  enough  to  make  a  soft  dough.  Let  it 
rise  until  light,  then  stir  in  quarter  cup  melted  butter, 
quarter  cup  sugar,  and  two  eggs  unbeaten.  Mix  thoroughly 
and  add  enough  more  flour  to  shape  it  into  a  loaf.  Let 
it  rise  in  the  pan  until  very  light;  then  bake  in  a  quick 
oven,  and  when  nearly  done  brush  over  with  sugar  dis- 
solved in  milk.  When  cold  cut  in  half-inch  thick  slices 
and  let  them  color  and  dry  in  a  moderate  oven. 


cup  yellow  gran,  corn 


Gold  meal. 

Medal  1  cup  flour. 

Corncake.     %  tsp.  salt. 


2  scant  tsp.  baking 
powder. 


2  tbsp.  sugar. 


1  scant  cup  milk. 
1  scant  tbsp.  butter 
melted. 


Mix  the  com  meal,  flour,  salt,  and  baking  powder 
thoroughly,  beat  the  egg  and  add  it  to  part  of  the  milk, 
then  add  to  the  dry  mixture,  and  add  the  butter  last. 

Bake  in  a  hot  oven  twenty-five  or  thirty  minutes. 


486  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


i 


heaped  cup  coffee- 
crushed  sugar. 

cup  butter. 

a  nutmeg. 


Quick  1  pt.  new  milk. 

Raised  3  cakes  Fleischman's 

Doughnuts.        yeast. 
(E.E.  Squire.)   1  level  teasp.  salt. 

2  eggs. 

Make  a  sponge  of  the  milk  warmed,  the  yeast  and  salt. 
When  very  light,  add  the  butter  and  sugar  creamed  to- 
gether with  the  thoroughly  beaten  eggs,  also  the  nutmeg 
and  sufficient  bread  flour  to  make  a  dough  that  will 
mould  without  added  flour,  but  not  too  stiff.  Mould  one- 
half  hour  on  a  warm  board,  then  roll  out  one-half  inch 
thick,  cut  with  a  small  biscuit  cutter  and  arrange  half  an 
inch  apart  on  the  warm  board  and  place  near  the  range 
till  light.  Then  fry  slowly,  roll  in  powdered  sugar  while 
hot  if  you  prefer.  This  makes  three  dozen. 

If  a  plainer  rule  is  desired,  omit  one  egg  and  use  one- 
third  cup  of  butter,  the  remainder  of  the  rule  the  same  as 
above.  Be  careful  that  at  any  time  before  frying  they 
do  not  get  too  warm. 

Doughnuts.  —  Rub  a  teaspoon  of  butter  into  a  generous 
cup  of  sugar,  add  two  unbeaten  eggs  and  stir  thoroughly  ; 
add  one  scant  cup  of  milk.  Mix  four  level  teaspoons  of 
baking  powder  in  two  cups  of  sifted- flour,  and  stir  into 
the  mixture.  Then  add  more  flour  till  soft  as  can  be 
rolled  out,  one-third  inch  thick.  Cut  in  rings  and  fry  in 
clean  hot  fat.  Test  the  fat  by  dropping  in  a  piece  of  the 
dough,  which  should  rise  at  once  to  the  top  with  a  good 
deal  of  ebullition  and  begin  to  brown  at  once.  Turn  only 
once. 

Buckwheat  Cakes.  —  Mix  over  night,  two  cups  buck- 
wheat, one  cup  Graham  flour,  and  one  level  teaspoon  salt. 
Stir  in  warm  water  for  thick  batter,  two  tablespoons 
molasses,  and  one-half  cake  compressed  yeast  dissolved 
in  water.  In  morning,  stir  the  batter  down  ;  if  too  thick, 
thin  with  warm  water,  or  if  any  sour  odor,  add  one-fourth 
teaspoon  soda  dissolved  in  water.  Rise  again  and  fry  on 
greased  griddle  as  wanted. 


Oyster  Cocktails. 


487 


Hors-d'oeuvre.  (M.  L.  Clarke.)  —  Remove  the  crust  from 
a  loaf  of  rye  bread,  cut  into  slices  nearly  two  inches 
thick,  remove  crusts  and  hollow  out  the  centre  sufficiently 
to  enable  a  lemon  to  stand  upright  in  it.  Cut  the  ends 
of  the  bread  block  into  thin  slices,  not  quite  to  the 
bottom.  Cut  a  lemon  in  halves  and  scoop  out  the  pulp 
from  the  sections,  being  careful  to  leave  the  membranous 
wall  of  every  other  section  so  there  will  be  five  distinct 
places  in  the  cup  thus  formed.  In  these  cavities  put 
minced  olives,  pickles,  the  bits  of  lemon,  pounded  sar- 
dines, caviare,  finely  minced  ham,  tongue,  anchovies, 
capers,  or  any  other  relish  or  combination  you  prefer. 
Have  at  least  three  varieties.  Put  the  filled  half  lemon 
in  the  hollow  of  the  bread.  Put  a  dainty  doily  or  paper 
on  the  plate,  the  bread  on  that,  and  an  oyster  fork  across 
the  plate.  They  may  be  placed  beside  the  guest's  plate 
and  the  various  relishes  nibbled  as  one  fancies.  The 
bread  is  broken  from  the  cut  end  as  needed. 


Oyster  Cocktail.  —  Use  very  small  oysters,  and  allow 
from  four  to  eight  for  each  glass.  Keep  them  on  ice 
until  wanted,  and  have  the  glasses  thoroughly  chilled 
before  filling.  Use  the  common  claret  glass  if  you  have 
not  the  regular  cocktail  glass.  When  ready  to  serve, 
put  the  oysters  in  the  glass  and  add  either  of  the  follow- 
ing mixtures,  using  from  one  to  two  teaspoonfuls  accord- 
ing to  taste. 


Sauces 
for  Oyster 
Cocktails. 


No.  1. 

1  tsp.  grated  horse- 
radish. 

1  tsp.  tomato  catsup. 
1  saltsp.  salt. 
Yz  saltsp.  cayenne. 

No.  2. 

1  tbsp.  lemon  juice. 
1  tbsp.  Worcestershire 

sauce. 

1  tbsp.  tomato  catsup. 
3^  saltsp.  paprika. 


%  tsp.  tabasco. 
2  tbsp.  lemon  juice. 
Mix  thoroughly. 
Enough  for  six  cocktails. 


1  saltsp.  salt. 
5  drops  tabasco. 
Mix  well  and  put  one  tsp. 
in  each  glass. 


488  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


No.  3. 


3  tsp.  vinegar. 
3  tsp.  lemon  juice. 
3  tsp.  tomato  catsup. 
3  tsp.  horseradish. 


%  tsp.  wahiut  catsup. 

1  saltsp.  salt. 

%  saltsp.  paprika. 


Clam  Cocktail.  (Lia  Rand.)  —  For  every  cocktail  re- 
quired, take  one  teaspoonf  til  of  lemon  juice,  one  teaspoonf  ul 
of  vinegar,  a  quarter  of  a  teaspoonful  of  walnut  sauce, 
one-half  teaspoonful  of  mushroom  catsup,  one-half  tea- 
spoonful  of  grated  horseradish,  one-half  teaspoonful  of 
tomato  catsup,  a  pinch  of  salt,  a  dash  of  tabasco  sauce : 
pour  this  mixture  over  eight  little  neck  clams  and  serve 
in  an  ice  cup,  or  in  a  glass  which  was  set  on  ice  for  hours 
previous  to  serving.  This  cocktail  finds  great  favor  for 
luncheon,  high  teas,  or  suppers. 

Caviare.  — This  is  the  roe  of  the  sturgeon  preserved  in 
salt  alone  or  in  salt,  pepper,  arid  onions  and  left  to  fer- 
ment. The  best  caviare  comes  from  the  north  of  Europe  ; 
that  made  on  the  Volga,  called  caviare  of  Astrachan  is 
preferred  by  some.  It  is  regarded  as  a  heavy  food,  diffi- 
cult of  digestion.  The  flavor  is  exceedingly  disagreeable 
to  an  unaccustomed  palate,  and  this  has  led  to  the  expres- 
sion, "  Caviare  to  the  general,"  for  anything  that  cannot 
be  appreciated  or  understood  by  the  people.  Caviare  is 
highly  esteemed  by  the  Russians,  and  the  most  delicate 
species  of  the  sturgeon  are  reserved  for  the  royal  family. 
It  is  classed  among  the  hors-d'oeuvres,  or  savouries,  and 
is  usually  served  on  or  with  fried  toast  or  croutons,  or 
brown  bread,  after  the  soup  or  fish.  It  should  not  be 
long  exposed  to  the  air.  If  you  buy  it  in  the  little  barrels, 
divide  it  into  small  bottles  and  cork  them  tightly,  then 
open  only  as  wanted.  If  it  should  become  too  hard, 
break  it  up  and  work  in  a  little  olive  oil  and  lemon  juice. 
This  is  often  the  only  preparation  given  it  at  gentlemen's 
suppers,  where  a  skilful  host,  if  he  prefers,  can  prepare 
it  for  each  guest.  Sometimes  it  is  served  on  a  side  dish 
with  slices  of  lemon  around  it,  and  sometimes  with  finely 
chopped  scallions  or  other  raw  onions. 


Cavaire.  489 


Caviare  Canapes,  No.  1.  —  Cut  slices  of  bread  quarter 
of  an  inch  thick,  then  cut  out  with  a  two-inch  cutter  into 
rounds.  Saute  or  fry  in  hot  butter  on  each  side  without 
burning,  and  set  away  to  cool.  Cream  quarter  of  a  cup 
of  fresh  butter,  add  salt  and  paprika  to  taste,  and  mix 
with  it  as  much  finely  minced  water- cress  as  will  give  it 
a  fine  flavor.  Chop  the  cress  very  fine,  then  squeeze  dry 
in  a  napkin  and  chop  again  until  very  fine  and  dry. 
Make  the  butter  into  balls,  and  let  it  become  hard. 
When  ready  to  serve,  spread  the  croutons  with  the  butter, 
then  spread  a  layer  of  caviare  on  top,  and  squeeze  a  little 
lemon  juice  over,  and  serve. 

Caviare,  No.  2.  —  Cut  slices  of  bread  one  inch  thick, 
then  with  a  pattie  cutter  stamp  them  out  into  rounds. 
With  a  smaller  cutter  stamp  the  centre  two-thirds  of  the 
way  down.  Fry  them  in  hot  deep  fat  until  a  delicate 
brown  color,  drain,  and  with  a  sharp  knife  remove  the 
centre  crust.  Then  fill  the  centres  with  a  mixture  made 
in  the  following  proportions.  Two  tablespoonfuls  of 
caviare,  one  teaspoonfid  beef  extract,  one  teaspoonful 
lemon  juice,  a  saltspoonful  curry  powder,  and  also  of 
paprika.  Put  all  into  a  sauce  pan  and  stir  over  the  fire 
until  quite  hot,  then  put  it  into  the  croutons.  This  may 
be  served  hot  or  cold,  one  to  each  person  on  a  plate  with 
a  paper  doily. 

Caviare,  No.  3.  —  Prepare  some  croutons  from  quarter- 
inch  slices  of  bread,  about  three  and  a  half  inches  long 
and  one  and  a  half  inches  wide,  fry,  cool,  and  spread 
with  the  caviare.  Pound  together  the  yolks  of  two  hard 
boiled  eggs,  six  boned  anchovies,  a  teaspoonful  of  chopped 
capers,  a  saltspoonful  each  of  mustard  and  paprika,  and 
two  tablespoonfuls  butter.  Mix  and  pound  until  very 
fine,  then  press  it  through  a  puree  strainer,  and  put  it 
into  a  bag  with  a  small  frosting  tube,  and  use  as  you 
would  frosting.  Use  a  paper  cornucopia  if  you  have  no 
bag  or  tube.  Chop  some  parsley  or  water-cress  very  fine 


490  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 

and  put  it  on  the  corners  of  the  crouton.  Cut  some  hard 
boiled  eggs  into  halves,  lengthwise,  and  place  them  in 
the  centre  of  the  croutons,  then  with  the  tube  fill  the  egg 
cavities  with  the  puree. 

Or,  the  egg  whites  may  be  sifted,  and  then  the  croutons 
decorated  according  to  your  taste,  with  fancy  lines  of  the 
puree,  the  white  and  the  green  salad. 

Cheese  Canapes.  —  Allow  the  beaten  white  of  one  egg 
to  each  cup  of  finely  crumbled  or  grated  cheese,  a  speck 
of  salt  and  cayenne.  Remove  the  crust  from  inch-thick 
slices  of  bread,  hollow  out  centre  making  a  box,  fill  with 
the  cheese  mixture  heaped,  bake  about  ten  minutes,  and 
serve  on  napkin. 

Thin  Brown  bread  and  Butter.  —  Trim  off  the  crusts 
from  a  loaf  of  brown  bread,  leaving  it  in  rectangular 
shape.  Slice  it  very  thin  and  spread  with  a  thin  coating 
of  butter.  Put  two  slices  together  and  cut  each  square 
into  triangles.  Arrange  them  neatly  on  a  plate  and 
serve  them  with  raw  oysters. 

Halibut  a  La  Conant.  —  In  a  baking  pan  put  three 
thin  slices  of  fat  salt  pork  about  two  inches  square, 
three  slices  of  onion  and  a  bit  of  bay  leaf.  On  top  of 
these  lay  a  two-pound  slice  of  halibut,  spread  over  it  one 
tablespoonful  butter  and  one  tablespoonful  flour  creamed 
together.  Cover  writh  buttered  cracker  crumbs  and  small 
strips  of  salt  pork  and  bake  twenty  minutes.  Take  out 
the  fish  with  a  fish  spade  or  two  long  knives,  and  lay  it  on 
a  hot  platter.  Garnish  with  lemon  and  parsley.  Cooked 
in  this  way  the  halibut  is  delicious,  moist  inside  with  a 
crisp  brown  crust,  and  so  nicely  flavored  that  no  sauce 
is  required. 

Broiled  Shad.  —  Split  the  shad  down  the  back,  lay  it 
open,  clean,  remove  the  back  bone  and  as  many  of  the 
fine  bones  as  possible,  and  wipe  dry.  Brush  all  over 
with  oil  or  melted  butter.  Lay  it  on  a  greased  broiler 


Pish.  491 

and  cook  over  coals  or  under  gas,  flesh  side  first,  until 
brown,  then  turn  and  cook  the  skin  side  until  crisp. 
Meanwhile  have  prepared  one  large  tablespoonful  butter 
creamed  with  one  level  teaspoonful  salt,  one  saltspoonful 
pepper  or  paprika,  one  tablespoon  lemon  juice  or  walnut 
catsup,  and  one  tablespoon  minced  parsley,  and  when  the 
fish  is  on  the  platter  spread  this  over  the  surface  and  make 
several  incisions  that  it  may  penetrate  the  fish.  Garnish 
with  lemon  points  and  parsley,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Planked  Fish.  —  Shad  or  bluefish  are  nice  cooked  in 
this  way  ;  indeed  among  camping  parties  along  the  shores 
of  the  Connecticut  River  planked  shad  is  a  favorite  dish. 
Clean  the  fish,  remove  the  head,  and  split  entirely  open. 
Nail  it  to  a  board,  set  in  front  of  the  fire  and  broil  until 
the  fish  is  browned  and  cooked  through.  Remove  it 
from  the  plank,  and  spread  with  butter,  salt,  and  cayenne 
pepper.  If  dishes  are  scarce,  as  they  are  very  likely 
to  be  in  camp,  season  the  fish  and  serve  upon  the  plank 
as  a  platter. 

Turbot.  —  Select  a  turbot  weighing  from  four  to  six 
pounds,  and  with  yellowish-white  flesh.  Wash  and  soak 
it  half  an  hour  in  one  quart  cold  water  with  two  table- 
spoons salt  to  remove  the  slime.  Put  again  into  fresh 
water,  drain  and  wipe.  Remove  the  skin,  cut  the  fish 
away  from  the  bone  and  divide  through  the  centre 
lengthwise,  making  four  fillets.  Wipe,  sprinkle  with 
salt  and  pepper,  brush  over  with  oil  or  melted  butter, 
and  broil  a  delicate  brown.  Season  with  butter,  salt, 
and  pepper,  garnish  with  water-cress,  and  serve  with 
cucumber  sauce. 

Pried  Pickerel  or  Pike.  —  This  fish  is  especially  nice 
for  frying,  as  the  flesh  may  be  sliced  into  uniform  pieces 
about  one  inch  thick,  giving  round,  shapely  steaks.  Of 
course,  the  fins,  scales,  and  entrails  are  first  removed, 
and  the  fish  washed  and  wiped  dry.  Roll  the  slices 
lightly  in  flour  or  fine  white  cornmeal,  and  cook  them 


492  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

quickly  in  hot  fat,  half  lard  and  half  butter;  or  use  salt 
pork  fat.  Do  not  let  the  fat  burn.  Turn  the  fish  when 
brown,  and  when  the  other  side  is  cooked,  remove  them 
to  a  pan  lined  with  soft  paper,  to  absorb  the  grease, 
while  you  make  a  cream  gravy.  Scrape  out  any  burned 
crumbs  left  in  the  pan,  but  if  they  are  only  browned  they 
will  do  no  harm.  If  pork  has  been  used,  remove  the 
scraps  and  fat.  Turn  in  one- fourth. cup  of  hot  water, 
and  scrape  off  any  brown  glaze  from  the  pan,  then  add 
one  cup  of  thick  cream,  and  let  it  boil  a  few  minutes. 
Rub  one  tablespoon  each  of  butter  and  Jlour  together, 
stir  it  in,  with  chopped  parsley  and  salt  and  pepper. 
Strain  it  on  to  a  platter  and  lay  the  browned  fish  in  the 
sauce.  Serve  the  crisp  pork  as  a  relish  for  those  who 
care  for  it.  If  the  fish  have  been  frozen,  thaw  them  out 
in  cold  water. 

Swordfish.  —  This  valuable  sea  food  has  many  friends 
among  those  who  have  eaten  it  at  its  best,  and  especially 
after  the  excitement  of  chasing  it  through  the  briny 
waves.  But  tastes  differ,  and  some  people  dislike  it  ex- 
ceedingly, and  never  include  it  in  their  summer  menus. 
It  has  quite  a  strong,  distinctive  flavor,  and  in  grain  and 
texture  is  not  unlike  some  meats.  Some  parts  of  the 
flesh  are  dark  and  oily,  for  it  belongs  to  the  red-blooded 
division  of  the  finny  tribe,  but  the  lighter-colored  por- 
tions, when  perfectly  fresh,  are  very  rich  and  delicious. 
It  is  usually  sold  in  thin  steaks  or  slices  after  the  manner 
of  halibut,  which  it  somewhat  resembles  in  size.  Sword- 
fish  steaks  are  cut  about  half  an  inch  thick  and  are  some- 
times broiled  over  the  coals,  but  more  often  they  are 
parboiled  in  a  hot  spider  slightly  greased.  As  they  are 
rich  in  fat,  they  need  but  little,  and  will  take  on  a  rich 
brown  color  without  the  aid  of  flour  or  crumbs,  and  will 
cook  through  without  becoming  hard  and  dry.  A  little 
salt  and  pepper,  with  butter  and  lemon  juice  is  all  the 
dressing  required,  but  fried  or  broiled  tomatoes  are  an 
excellent  accompaniment. 


Fish.  493 

Stuffed  Smelts.  —  Chop  six  large  oysters,  add  one  cup 
of  soft  bread  crumbs,  one  tablespoonful  of  melted  butter, 
and  salt  and  pepper  to  taste.  Clean  the  smelts,  fill  with 
the  mixture,  sew  the  edges,  roll  in  melted  butter,  then 
in  soft  bread  crumbs,  and  bake  in  a  moderate  oven  ten 
minutes.  Serve  with  Maitre  d'Hotel  butter.  Cream  two 
tablespoonfuls  butter,  add  juice  of  half  a  lemon  or  lime, 
and  a  teaspoonfal  of  chopped  parsley. 

Haddock  Rarebit.  —  Have  the  haddock  cut  in  slices  or 
steaks  about  one  inch  thick  and  free  from  bone  and  skin. 
Lay  them  in  a  greased  baking  dish,  and  season  with 
salt  and  pepper.  Turn  them  over  and  spread  on  the 
top  of  each  a  cheese  mixture  prepared  as  for  a  rarebit. 
Have  the  cheese  finely  crumbled  and  seasoned  with  salt, 
cayenne,  and  a  bit  of  mustard,  and  if  you  like  you  may 
bind  the  mixture  with  beaten  egg  or  cream.  Put  into 
a  very  hot  oven  and  cook  until  the  cheese  melts  and 
browns,  and  the  fish  is  firm.  Take  up  carefully  on  a 
serving  dish  and  pour  over  one  tablespoon  of  sherry  to 
each  slice. 


New      1  cup  raw  salt  fish. 
Fish       1  pint  potatoes. 
Balls,     1  teasp.  butter. 


i^  teasp.  pepper. 
Salt  if  needed. 
Whites  of  2  eggs. 


Wash  the  fish,  pick  in  half-inch  pieces,  and  free  from 
bones.  Pare  the  potatoes  and  cut  in  quarters,  allowing 
a  heaping  pint  measure  to  a  level  cup  of  fish.  Put 
potatoes  and  fish  in  a  stew  pan  and  cover  with  boiling 
water.  Boil  twenty-five  minutes,  or  till  the  potatoes  are 
soft,  but  be  careful  not  to  let  them  boil  long  enough  to 
become  soggy.  Drain  off  all  the  water ;  mash  and  beat 
the  fish  and  potatoes  with  a  wire  beater  till  very  light ; 
add  the  butter  and  pepper,  and  when  cooled  add  the 
stiffly  beaten  egg  whites  and  more  salt  if  needed. 

While  the  fish  and  potatoes  are  cooking,  try  out  several 
slices  of  sweet  fat  salt  pork,  being  very  careful  that  it 
does  not  burn,  and  when  crisp  remove  the  slices  and 


494  r^ie  Boston  Cook  Book. 

keep  them  warm.  Drop  a  large  tablespoonf  ul  of  the  mix- 
ture on  a  floured  board  and  shape  it  into  a  round  cake 
about  one  and  one-half  inches  thick,  and  floured  on  each 
side.  When  all  are  shaped,  put  them  into  the  hot  pork 
fat  and  brown  them  delicately  on  each  side,  but  not  on 
the  edges.  The  white  mixture  should  seem  to  be  burst- 
ing out  from  the  browned  surfaces.  Drain  them  on 
paper  and  serve  them  with  hard-boiled  eggs  cut  lengtti- 
wise  and  laid  on  each  cake.  Boil  the  eggs  eight  minutes, 
or  just  enough  to  set  the  yolks.  Garnish  with  the  crisp 
pork  and  pickles  cut  in  fancy  shapes. 

Or  you  may  omit  the  boiled  egg  garnish  and  make  a 
sauce  with  the  two  yolks  and  pour  it  into  the  centre  of 
the  dish  and  lay  the  cakes  around  it.  Or  put  the  cakes 
in  the  centre,  the  yellow  sauce  at  one  end,  and  some 
sliced  green  tomato  pickle  at  the  other. 

Hulled  Corn  Soup.  —  There  is  a  distinctive  flavor  to 
hulled  corn  that  is  especially  agreeable  to  many,  particu- 
larly to  those  who  have  been  accustomed  to  this  dish  in 
childhood.  But  often  the  corn  is  not  quite  tender,  or 
one  wishes  to  serve  it  in  a  more  modern  way,  and  a  soup 
or  puree  will  be  found  to  be  both  novel  and  delicious. 
If  the  corn  is  tender,  mash  it  until  fine  and  sift  it 
through  a  puree  strainer;  otherwise  chop  the  corn  fine 
before  sifting.  Then  gradually  stir  in  hot  milk  enough 
to  make  it  the  consistency  of  any  cream  vegetable  soup. 
Put  it  on  to  boil  and  add  salt  and  pepper  to  taste,  and 
a  generous  tablespoonful  of  butter,  for  each  quart  of  the 
mixture.  Serve  it  with  croutons.  It  will  have  a  slightly 
granular  texture,  and  if  this  is  not  liked,  you  may  add 
the  usual  flour  thickening.  One  tablespoonful  of  butter 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour  cooked  together,  and 
stirred  into  the  hot  soup.  If  a  corn  puree  is  desired, 
simply  mash  and  sift  the  corn,  heat  and  season  to  taste 
with  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and  serve  as  a  vegetable, 
or  as  a  garnish  for  sausage  or  pork  chops, 


Noodles. 


495 


Noodles.  — Beat  two  eggs  slightly,  add  two  tablespoon- 
fids  of  milk)  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt.  Stir  in  flour 
enough  to  make  a  very  stiff  dough.  Knead  it  till  stiff  as 
possible.  Roll  it  out  into  rectangular  pieces  and  so  thin 
you  can  see  through  it.  Lay  them  on  a  napkin  half  an 
hour  until  they  are  dry,  but  not  brittle.  Rub  over  with 
a  little  flour  so  it  will  not,  stick.  Roll  up  tight  and  hard, 
and  then  slice  off  from  the  end  about  one-eighth  of  an 
inch  thick.  Shake  them  out  till  long  and  straight.  Put 
them  into  boiling  salted  water,  stir  them  at  first  to  pre- 
vent sticking,  and  cook  until  they  swell  and  come  to  the 
top  of  the  water.  Skim  them  out  into  a  dish  for  serv- 
ing. Melt  half  a  cup  of  butter  in  a  frying  pan,  put 
half  a  slice  of  bread,  crumbled  finely,  in  the  butter, 
stir  until  golden  brown,  then  spoon  up  butter  and  bread 
and  pour  over  the  noodles.  Pass  sapsago  cheese  with 
the  noodles. 

If  any  be  left  over,  warm  it  in  butter  until  a  delicate 
brown,  and  stir  in  three  or  four  beaten  eggs ;  serve  as 
soon  as  firm.  This  makes  a  nice  relish  for  supper. 

Lentil  Soup.  —  Lentils  are  rich  in  proteid  material,  and 
therefore  are  very  suitable  when  a  meat  soup  is  not 
desired. 

Pick  over  and  wash  one  cup  of  lentils,  and  put  them  on 
to  cook  in  one  quart  of  boiling  water.  Let  them  cook 
very  slowly  until  soft  and  the  water  reduced  one-half. 
Rub  the  pulp  through  a  strainer,  add  one  pint  of  milk, 
and,  when  boiling,  thicken  with  one  rounded  tablespoon 
flour  cooked  in  one  rounded  tablespoon  butter.  Season 
with  paprika,  salt,  and  a  dash  of  sugar,  and  serve  with 
wafers  or  croutons. 

Cream  of  Onions.  —  Onions  are  usually  used  merely  to 
flavor  soups,  but  they  may  serve  as  the  foundation  or 
body  of  a  soup  the  same  as  any  other  vegetable  pulp. 
They  are  especially  valuable  in  the  spring,  and  by  many 
are  considered  as  almost  a  specific  for  some  physical  ills. 


496  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

The  large  white  Spanish  and  the  Bermuda  variety, 
having  a  mild  flavor,  are  the  best  for  soups.  They 
should  be  peeled,  sliced,  and  scalded  for  five  minutes; 
then  drain  quite  dry;  this  will  remove  much  of  the 
pungent  oil.  Then,  for  a  pint  of  sliced  onion  put  one 
rounded  tablespoonful  of  butter  in  the  stewpan,  add  the 
onions,  and  let  them  simmer  very  slowly  for  ten  minutes. 
Put  on  boiling  water  to  cover,  and  let  them  simmer  until 
very  soft  —  about  an  hour. 

Then  rub  them  through  a  strainer,  add  one,  cup  of  hot 
milk,  thickened  with  one  level  teaspoonful  of  flour 
cooked  in  one  rounded  tablespoonful  of  butter.  Season 
with  one-fourth  of  a  teaspoonful  of  white  pepper,  one- 
half  teaspoon  salt. 

Beat  yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  one  cup  hot  cream,  and 
put  into  the  tureen.  Turn  the  hot  soup  over  the  egg, 
stirring  constantly,  and  serve  at  once. 


Cream  of    1  can  peas. 
Canned        1  pint  hot  water. 
Peas.  1  qt.  milk. 

1  teasp.  salt. 


1  saltsp.  pepper. 
%  teasp.  sugar. 
1  tbsp.  butter. 
1  tbsp.  flour. 


Turn  the  peas  from  the  can  into  a  colander  and  pour 
cold  water  over  them  to  remove  the  taste  of  the  tin. 
Drain  and  heat  slightly  in  quarter  of  a  cup  of  water. 
Rub  them  through  a  puree  strainer,  gradually  adding  the 
pint  of  hot  water,  which  will  help  to  separate  the  pulp 
from  the  skins.  Put  the  pea  pulp  and  milk  on  to  boil ; 
add  the  seasoning ;  then  the  butter  and  flour,  which  have 
first  been  cooked  together.  Stir  as  it  thickens,  and,  as 
the  pea  pulp  will  vary  in  thickening  quality,  it  may  be 
necessary  to  add  more  milk  or  water  if  too  thick,  or  to 
let  it  cook  longer  if  too  thin.  Remember  that  all  vege- 
table cream  soups  become  thicker  as  they  cool,  and 
should  be  served  very  hot. 

Clam  Bouillon.  —  Select  clams  in  the  shell,  wash  and 
scrub  thoroughly  and  change  the  water  until  clean.  Put 


G-ombo  Soup.  497 


them  iu  a  kettle  with  a  pint  of  cold  water  for  half  a  peck 
of  clams.  Cover  tightly  and  let  them  cook  until  the 
shells  open.  Skim  out  the  clams,  pour  off  the  liquor 
carefully  into  a  pitcher,  and  let  it  stand  until  clear. 
Then  pour  off  again  from  the  sediment,  and  if  too  strong 
dilute  it  with  water  as  desired,  and  to  each  quart  of 
liquid,  add  the  white  and  crumbled  shell  of  one  egg,  and 
a  little  pepper. 

Place  over  the  fire  and  let  it  boil  five  minutes,  con- 
stantly stirring  until  the  egg  has  thickened.  Draw  it 
back,  and  when  it  is  clear,  strain  it  carefully.  Serve  hot 
or  cold,  in  cups  with  whipped  cream  and  wafers. 

Gombo  Soup.  —  Cut  up  a  chicken  as  for  a  fricassee,  and 
dredge  it  thickly  with  flour.  Fry  a  sliced  onion  in  bacon 
fat,  remove  the  onion  and  brown  the  chicken ;  brown  also 
one  quart  of  sliced  okra  pods.  Place  the  chicken,  onion, 
and  okra  in  a  kettle,  cover  with  boiling  water,  add  one 
quart  of  sliced  tomatoes.  Simmer  until  the  chicken  is 
tender.  Remove  the  larger  bones  and  all  the  fat.  Add 
salt,  cayenne,  and  a  very  little  sugar.  Serve  it  without 
straining  and  with  boiled  rice. 

Beef  a  La  Russegue.  —  Select  a  piece  of  beef  from  the 
under  part  of  the  round,  or  the  vein,  weighing  about 
three  pounds.  Put  it  on  in  boiling  water  to  nearly  cover, 
skim  as  it  boils,  and  let  it  cook  slowly  three  or  four  hours 
or  until  tender.  When  nearly  done,  add  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste.  Remove  it  from  the  water  and  set  away  to  cool. 
In  the  water  left  in  the  kettle  cook  one  dozen  small 
onions.  When  nearly  done,  add  the  same  amount  of 
small  potatoes  pared  into  round  shape,  or  cut  with  a 
large  potato  marble  cutter.  Remove  these  from  the 
water  when  tender,  and  set  away  to  cool. 

Half  an  hour  before  serving  time,  cut  the  meat  into 
quarter-inch  slices  and  brown  it  quickly  and  delicately  in 
hot  butter.  Use  two  spiders,  so  it  may  be  done  quickly. 
Put  the  onions  and  potatoes  in  the  spider,  adding  more 
butter  as  needed,  and  let  them  color  slightly.  Then  heat 


498  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

the  water  in  which  the  meat  was  boiled,  which  should  be 
about  a  pint,  add  one  cup  of  cream,  and  thicken  it  slightly 
with  flour  wet  in  cold  water.  Add  more  seasoning,  if 
needed,  and  one  cup  of  canned  mushrooms,  and  simmer 
until  the  mushrooms  are  hot.  Arrange  the  potato  balls 
around  the  meat,  then  a  row  of  the  onions  around  the 
potatoes,  and  dot  here  and  there  with  the  mushrooms. 
Pour  the  gravy  over  the  meat,  enough  to  cover  and  show 
under  the  vegetable  garnish.  Put  a  sprig  of  parsley  at 
the  corners. 

This  dish  may  seem  to  require  considerable  time  in  its 
preparation,  but  it  is  a  very  convenient  dish  for  a  six 
o'clock  dinner,  as  the  meat  and  vegetables  may  be  boiled 
in  the  forenoon ;  then  it  takes  but  little  time  to  reheat 
them  at  night.  Do  not  think  it  can  be  served  as  soon  as 
the  meat  and  vegetables  are  cooked  and  be  the  same,  for 
the  flavor  of  the  meat  when  cooled  and  then  reheated  is 
quite  unlike  that  of  the  freshly  boiled  meat.  And  we  all 
know  how  the  potato  changes  in  texture  and  flavor  when 
warmed  over,  and  while  it  may  not  be  as  wholesome  for 
a  delicate  stomach,  it  would  not  harm  others.  It  is  an 
economical  and  appetizing  dish. 

Pepper  Pot.  —  Cover  two  pounds  of  tripe  and  four  calves' 
feet,  or  a  knuckle  of  veal,  with  cold  water  and  heat  slowly, 
remove  the  scum,  add  one  red  pepper,  and  cook  till  the  feet 
are  tender,  then  remove  the  meat,  let  the  liquor  cool,  skim 
off  the  fat,  heat  the  liquor  again  and  add  seasoning  to 
taste,  salt,  cayenne,  and  sweet  herbs.  Cut  the  tripe  and 
the  meat  in  small  pieces,  and  slice  about  an  equal  amount 
of  potatoes,  add  them  and  cook  until  the  potatoes  are 
done.  When  nearly  done,  add  either  egg  balls  or  very 
small  flour  dumplings,  and  cook  ten  minutes. 

Salisbury  Steak.  —  Select  the  middle  cut  from  the  top 
of  the  best  round  steak.  Free  it  from  fat,  skin,  and  fibre. 
Run  it  three  times  through  a  meat  chopper.  Make  into  a 
mass  about  one  and  one-fourth  inch  thick,  and  shape  the 


Braised   Veal.  499 


edges  even.  Put  it  into  a  wire  broiler  and  lay  an  iron 
band  round  it,  which  will  help  to  keep  the  meat  in  shape. 
If  the  broiler  shuts  together  too  closely,  bend  it  out  in  the 
middle  slightly. 

Put  it  over  a  Charcoal  Broiler  Stove  and  turn  every  ten 
seconds.  Cook  from  four  to  six  minutes.  Lift  the  edge, 
and  as  soon  as  the  meat  is  no  longer  raw,  remove  it  to  a 
hot  plate.  Sprinkle  with  salt.  In  serving,  cut  into  thin 
strips,  and  let  each  person  spread  it  with  butter  as 
desired. 

In  this  way  you  have  the  full,  sweet  flavor  of  the  butter 
without  the  injurious  effect  of  melted  butter. 

Veal  Chops.  —  These  are  cut  from  the  loin  and  ribs,  and 
correspond  to  the  sirloin  and  rib  steaks  in  beef,  and  to 
the  chops  in  mutton.  They  are  generally  more  tender 
than  the  cutlets  from  the  leg,  just  as  sirloin  steak  is  more 
tender  than  that  from  the  round. 

Loin  or  kidney  chops  have  quite  a  piece  of  fat  with 
them  which  is  very  sweet  and  delicious,  and  sometimes 
the  kidney  is  sold  with  the  chop. 

Trim  off  the  fat  and  cook  it  slowly  until  crisp.  Slice 
the  kidney,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  and  cook  it  in 
the  fat. 

Trim  the  chops  and  remove  the  bone,  if  preferred. 
Press  into  compact  shape  and  season  slightly.  Roll  in 
fine  cracker  crumbs,  then  dip  in  beaten  egg,  then  in 
seasoned  crumbs,  and  cook  carefully  in  the  hot  fat, 
adding  more  butter  or  salt  pork  fat,  if  needed.  Do  not 
let  them  become  too  brown.  Drain  and  serve,  garnished 
with  the  crisp  fat  and  sliced  kidney  and  a  bit  of  parsley. 

Braised  Veal.  —  Chop  half  a  pound  of  fat  pork  fine,  and 
put  half  of  it  in  the  bottom  of  a  broad  pot ;  sprinkle  with, 
a  tablespoon  of  chopped  carrot,  minced  onion,  a  bay  leaf, 
and  a  sprig  of  thyme.  Lay  a  breast  of  veal  on  this  bed, 
and  cover  with  a  similar  layer.  Pour  in  carefully  a  quart 
of  stock,  cover  and  set  on  back  of  the  range  ;  let  simmer 


500  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

for  two  hours,  remove  the  meat,  rub  over  with  butter, 
then  dredge  thickly  with  browned  flour.  Pour  over  the 
meat  one  cupful  of  the  stock,  then  place  in  a  hot  oven 
and  bake  about  half  an  hour,  basting  with  the  remaining 
gravy  every  few  minutes.  Serve  the  veal  on  a  hot  platter 
lined  with  buttered  toast,  and  serve  the  gravy  in  a  sauce 
boat.  Plain  boiled  spaghetti,  or  home-made  egg  noodles 
should  be  served  with  it. 

Brown  Fricassee  of  Sweetbreads.  —  Parboil  ten  min- 
utes. Remove  fat  and  membranes,  dredge  with  flour, 
and  fry,  till  quite  brown,  in  butter,  with  a  minced  onion. 
Add  to  the  butter,  one  cup  of  veal  stock  and  two  table" 
spoonfuls  of  mushroom  ketchup,  or  half  a  cup  of  tomatoes 
and  one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  parsley.  Season  to  taste 
with  salt  and  pepper,  cover,  and  stew  slowly  for  half  an 
hour:  Strain  the  gravy,  and  pour  it  over  the  sweetbreads. 

Shoulder  of  Mutton.  —  Remove  the  shoulder  blade, 
back,  and  leg  bones,  any  fine  crumbs  of  bone  or  stringy 
membranes.  Wipe  with  a  wet  cloth  and  rub  slightly  with 
salt.  Roll  or  fold  into  shape  and  tie  securely.  Put  it 
into  boiling  salted  water  to  cover,  remove  the  scum  as 
soon  as  the  water  boils  again,  then  turn  the  meat  over 
and  skim  again.  Let  it  cook  gently.  When  it  is  nearly 
tender,  remove  it  from  the  water,  drain  it,  and  place  it  in 
a  baking  pan.  Dredge  with  salt,  pepper,  and  flour,  and 
set  it  in  the  oven.  Bake  until  brown  and  crisp  on  the 
surface.  Baste  occasionally  with  some  of  the  top  of  the 
water  from  the  kettle,  and  dredge  with  flour  after  basting. 
The  whole  process  will  take  from  two  and  a  half  to  three 
hours. 

When  the  meat  is  sufficiently  browned,  remove  it  to  a 
hot  dish,  put  the  pan  on  the  stove,  and  let  the  water 
nearly  boil  out,  leaving  only  fat  in  the  pan.  Stir  into 
this  fat  about  two  tablespoonfuls  of  flour,  and  let  them 
brown  together.  Scrape  off  all  the  glaze  from  the  edges, 
and  when  well  colored,  add  one  pint  of  hot  water  from 
that  used  in  boiling  the  lamb,  or  you  may  use  half  water 


Pork  Chops.  501 


and  half  strained  tomato.  Stir  well  as  it  thickens,  and 
season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  in  a  gravy 
boat.  Remove  the  strings  from  the  meat,  and  in  serving 
cut  at  right  angles  with  the  back  edge. 

After  putting  the  lamb  in  the  oven,  put  the  bones  and 
trimmings  in  the  kettle  with  the  water  used  in  the  boiling, 
add  one  onion,  and  a  few  bits  of  carrot  and  turnip,  if  you 
happen  to  have  them,  and  let  the  whole  simmer  until  the 
bones  are  clear  of  all  gristle  or  meat.  Then  strain  the 
liquor  and  set  it  away  to  cool,  and  the  next  day  you  may 
remove  the  fat,  heat  it  again,  and  have  a  delicious  lamb 
broth  with  boiled  rice  or  curry. 

Breaded  Chops.  —  Remove  the  bone  and  tough  portion 
from  six  chops  cut  from  the  loin  or  ribs.  Pat  them  into 
shape.  Make  a  dressing  of  stale  bread  crumbled,  highly 
seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  cayenne,  and  a  little  powdered 
thyme,  moistened  with  melted  butter  and  one  well  beaten 
egg  and  enough  hot  water  to  make  it  soft  enough  to 
spread  easily.  Lay  the  chops  in  a  dripping  pan  with 
some  of  the  surplus  fat  under  them.  Spread  the  dress- 
ing smoothly  all  over  the  top  of  each,  place  them  in 
a  hot  oven,  and  bake  about  twenty  minutes,  or  until 
brown. 

Pork  Chops.  —  It  will  be  impossible  to  cook  some  pork 
chops,  and  have  them  juicy  and  tender.  There  is  no 
meat  that  varies  so  much  in  quality,  or  that  is  so  decep- 
tive as  fresh  pork.  The  lean  must  be  well  marked  with 
white  lines  of  fat,  or  it  will  be  dry  and  hard.  It  is  often 
put  into  a  very  hot  spider  without  any  fat,  and  the  sur- 
face quickly  becomes  very  hard  and  brown. 

Put  in  a  tablespoonful  of  lard,  and  when  hot  lay  in  the 
chops,  and  then  keep  them  turning  constantly ;  reduce  the 
heat  as  soon  as  they  are  browned  on  each  side,  and  cook 
slowly  until  thoroughly  done.  Do  not  salt  them  until 
just  before  serving.  They  may  be  laid  in  a  greased  pan 
and  baked  quickly  in  a  hot  oven. 


$02  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Bacon.  — Do  not  buy  bacon  by  the  pound,  nor  have  it 
cut  in  thick  slices,  if  cut  at  the  market,  but  purchase  it  by 
the  whole  strip,  freshly  cured.  It  will  keep  well  if  the 
paper  and  burlap  cover  are  replaced  whenever  opened, 
and  is  as  much  a  necessity  in  the  storeroom  as  is  a  supply 
of  flour,  sugar,  or  any  other  staple  article  of  food.  It  has 
no  equal  as  an  appetizer  for  breakfast,  or  in  helping  out 
when  there  is  but  a  limited  supply  of  other  meat.  Served 
with  omelets,  or  some  other  forms  of  eggs,  crisp  curly 
bacon  is  all  the  meat  necessary  for  a  summer  breakfast. 
It  is  invaluable  to  boil  with  greens  or  other  vegetables. 
The  fat  of  bacon  is  one  of  the  most  easily  digested  forms 
of  fat,  as  the  curing  and  smoking  seem  to  have  given  it 
some  qualities  which  render  it  less  objectionable  than 
when  fresh.  Many  physicians  prescribe  it  in  place  of 
cod  liver  oil. 

Transparent  Bacon. — Shave  off  the  hard,  lean  strip 
from  bacon,  also  the  smoked  edges  and  rind  as  far  back 
on  the  strip  as  you  require  for  one  meal.  Then  with  a 
very  sharp  knife  shave  off  in  slices  not  more  than  an 
eighth  of  an  inch  thick.  Lay  them  in  a  hot  frying  pan, 
and  turn  as  soon  as  transparent ;  cook  a  moment  on  the 
other  side,  tip  the  spider  and  let  the  fat  drain  away  from 
the  bacon.  Then  serve  alone  or  with  eggs,  beefsteak, 
veal  cutlets,  liver,  or  oysters.  The  slices  may  be  laid  in 
a  fine  wire  broiler  and  cooked  over  a  clear  hot  fire,  or  the 
broiler  laid  in  a  pan  and  the  whole  placed  in  a  hot  oven 
until  transparent. 

Keep  the  bacon  in  a  cold  place,  that  it  may  be  hard  and 
firm  before  slicing,  and  if  not  ready  to  fry  immediately, 
put  the  slices  in  the  refrigerator  until  wanted. 

Crisp  Bacon. — Prepare  as  directed  for  Transparent 
Bacon,  then  shave  in  the  thinnest  possible  slices  ;  never 
mind  if  they  are  not  entire  slices  so  long  as  they  are  mere 
shavings.  Take  two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  clear 
bacon  fat  from  a  previous  frying,  or  use  lard  if  you  have 


Fowl  503 

no  bacon  fat ;  let  it  become  quite  hot  in  a  small  pan,  then 
put  the  bacon  in,  stir  it  quickly  with  a  fork  for  one 
minute,  and  skim  it  out  as  soon  as  it  rattles.  It  should 
be  only  slightly  colored,  if  dark  brown,  it  has  been  over- 
cooked. Drain  on  paper.  Should  the  bacon  prove  to  be 
very  salt,  it  may  be  soaked  in  milk  over  night  after  slicing, 
then  drain,  roll  in  very  fine  crumbs,  or  flour,  and  cook  it 
quickly  in  hot  fat. 

With  a  gas  stove  bacon  is  readily  made  crisp  by  broil- 
ing. Then  no  additional  fat  is  required. 

Smothered  Fowl.  —  Clean  a  fowl  suitable  only  for  boil- 
ing; stuff  and  truss  as  for  roasting.  Put  it  in  a  large 
deep  kettle  or  jar.  Parboil  some  white  beans,  season 
the  same  as  for  baking,  and  put  them  in  the  kettle  with 
the  fowl,  —  under,  around,  and  over  the  fowl.  Add 
water  and  a  small  piece  of  pork.  Cover,  and  bake 
slowly  about  eight  hours.  Add  water  as  it  boils  away, 
and  treat  the  same  as  for  beans  alone.  Pour  the  beans 
out,  remove  the  fowl  carefully,  put  it  on  a  large  platter, 
and  garnish  with  the  beans.  If  more  convenient,  the 
fowl  may  be  cut  as  for  a  fricassee. 

Hungarian  Chicken  or  Paprika  Huhn.  —  Put  one  heaped 
tablespoon/id  butter  or  dripping  in  a  tight  stew  pan,  add 
two  good-sized  onions  sliced  thin  and  left  in  long  strips. 
When  slightly  colored,  add  half  teaspoonful  of  Hunga- 
rian pepper  or  paprika,  and  mix  well  and  let  them  brown. 
Then  add  the  chicken  cut  in  pieces,  and  salted  and  pep- 
pered. Brown  well,  turning  often.  Then  add  stock  or 
water  till  nearly  covered.  Stew  until  tender.  Just  be- 
fore serving,  take  out  the  meat,  put  on  a  hot  platter,  and 
add  a  full  half  cup  or  more  of  thick  sour  cream.  Just 
let  it  scald,  but  do  not  boil  it,  pour  it  over  the  chicken 
and  serve  at  once. 

Croustades  of  Chicken. — Cover  the  outside  of  small 
moulds  or  tin  corn-cake  cups  with  thin  puff  paste.  Prick 


504  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

and  bake,  remove  from  the  moulds  and  fill  with  mixture 
of  mushrooms  and  chicken  breasts  chopped  fine  and 
moistened  with  highly-seasoned  cream  sauce. 

Roast  Mallard  or  Teal  Ducks.  —  Singe,  draw,  and  re- 
move all  the  tiny  pinfeathers.  Then  wash  very  quickly, 
both  inside  and  out,  with  cool  water  and  wipe  perfectly 
dry.  For  the  stuffing,  take  equal  parts  of  chopped  tart 
apples,  of  bread  crumbs  which  have  been  browned  in  the 
oven  and  sifted,  and  of  boiled  onions.  Season  highly 
with  salt  and  pepper,  and  a  little  sage,  and  moisten  with 
two  or  three  tablespoonfuls  of  melted  butter.  Stuff  the 
ducks,  sew  and  truss.  Put  on  a  rack  in  a  pan,  sprinkle 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  little  flour.  Cover  with  small 
slices  of  salt  pork  and  put  into  a  very  hot  oven.  In 
about  five  minutes  the  ducks  will  be  light  brown.  Now 
reduce  the  heat  and  pour  into  the  pan  a  very  little  water. 
The  dripping  fat  will  burn  unless  a  little  hot  water  is 
added.  Baste  every  four  or  five  minutes.  In  forty 
minutes  the  ducks  will  be  sufficiently  cooked,  if  liked  a 
trifle  rare,  but  many  prefer  a  longer  cooking.  When 
nearly  done,  the  pork  must  be  removed  and  the  birds 
evenly  browned  on  all  sides.  Serve  with 

Olive  Sauce.  —  Skim  off  some  of  the  fat  in  the  dripping 
pan  until  only  four  tablespoonfuls  remain.  To  this  add 
four  tablespoonfuls  of  browned  flour,  stir,  then  add  slowly 
one  and  a  half  cups  of  boiling  water.  Let  it  boil  until 
slightly  thickened,  stirring  constantly,  then  add  four 
tablespoonfuls  of  olive  pulp  cut  in  small  pieces,  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  one  teaspoonful  of  caramel. 

Roast  Duck,  No.  2.  —  Prepare  as  directed  in  first  recipe, 
and  stuff  with  stale  bread  crumbs,  seasoned  with  a  little 
melted  butter,  salt,  pepper,  and  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of 
chopped  celery.  Place  the  duck  on  the  bottom  of  the 
pan  and  not  on  the  rack,  and  put  close  around  it  a  sweet 
potato,  a  carrot,  and  a  parsnip,  each  of  them  pared  and 


Rabbit  Fricassee.  505 


cut  in  halves.  When  the  duck  is  basted,  baste  the  vege- 
tables also,  and  when  the  duck  has  been  taken  from  the 
pan,  mash  the  vegetables  in  the  drippings  and  press 
through  the  sieve.  Add  about  one  and  a  half  cups  of 
boiling  water,  season  and  serve  in  a  gravy  boat.  The 
vegetables  take  the  place  of  flour  in  thickening,  help  to 
flavor,  and  we  think  this  is  a  very  good  everyday  gravy 
for  ducks.  (Miss  Souther.) 

A  Missouri  Dainty.  —  Cut  a  carefully  dressed  young 
squirrel  or  rabbit  into  pieces  for  frying ;  rub  each  piece 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  dust  with  a  trifle  of  mace]  dredge 
well  with  flour,  and  fry  to  a  rich  brown  in  half  butter  and 
half  lard.  Remove  the  meat  from  the  pan,  add  a  heaping 
tablespoonful  of  flour,  and  when  it  is  brown,  enough 
seasoned  soup  stock  to  make  a  gravy  as  thick  as  cream. 
Next  place  the  meat  in  a  porcelain-lined  pot,  or  earthen- 
ware "  cooking-crock,"  pour  over  it  the  gravy,  and  a 
generous  cupful  of  tomatoes,  which  have  been  well  stewed 
down  and  seasoned  with  salt,  pepper,  and  a  grated  onion  ; 
place  a  tight-fitting  lid  on  the  vessel,  stand  it  on  a  muffin 
ring  in  a  moderate  oven,  and  let  it  cook  for  three  hours. 

Rabbit  Fricassee  with  Curry.  —  Select  a  fat,  young, 
wild  rabbit,  which,  if  fresh,  will  have  no  unpleasant  odor. 
Skin  and  clean  it,  and  remove  the  head  and  neck,  which 
are  not  to  be  used.  Split  it  down  the  back,  then  disjoint 
it,  or  cut  into  convenient  pieces.  Wipe  off  with  a  clean 
wet  cloth,  and  if  you  prefer  you  may  soak  it  half  an  hour 
in  salted  water.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper,  dredge 
with  flour,  and  brown  slightly  in  hot  butter  or  salt  pork 
fat.  Put  the  meat  into  a  stewpan.  In  the  fat  left  in 
the  saucepan,  put  one  sliced  onion  and  cook  until  slightly 
colored.  Mix  two  teaspoonfuls  of  curry  powder,  one 
^easpoonful  of  sugar,  and  one  heaping  tablespoonful  of 
Hour,  and  brown  them  in  the  butter.  Add  slowly  one 
pint  of  water,  one  cup  of  strained  tomato,  six  raisins 
seeded,  on*  cup  of  chopped  sour  apple,  a  dash  of  cay* 


506  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

enne,  and  salt  to  taste.  Turn  this  sauce  over  the  rabbit, 
and  let  it  simmer  until  the  flesh  is  very  tender.  When 
ready  to  serve,  add  one  cup  of  hot  milk  and  quarter  of  a 
cup  of  chopped  olives.  Have  ready  one  cup  of  rice, 
cooked  in  boiling  water  until  soft,  turn  the  rabbit  into  a 
platter  and  pile  the  rice  around  the  edge. 

Brown  Fricassee  of  Partridge.  —  Dress  and  clean  a  pair 
of  partridges,  split  them  through  the  back  and  breast  as 
for  broiling.  Fry  two  slices  of  salt  pork  in  a  Scotch 
bowl  or  other  deep  iron  kettle.  Remove  the  scraps,  lay 
the  partridges  in,  and  brown  them  carefully.  Then 
add  one  cup  of  boiling  water ;  cover  the  kettle  closely 
and  let  it  cook  very  slowly.  Keep  that  amount  of  water 
in  the  kettle,  adding  a  little  as  it  boils  away.  Cook  until 
very  tender,  about  two  hours.  Then  take  out  the  meat, 
remove  the  fat  from  the  gravy  and  pour  in  half  a  cup 
of  tomato  ketchup ;  thicken  it  with  a  little  flour  mixed 
with  cold  water.  Add  more  salt  if  needed,  put  the  meat 
in  again,  and  when  heated  through,  serve  on  a  shallow 
dish  with  browned  sweet  potatoes.  (Mrs.  Webster.) 

Baked  Quail.  —  Pick,  draw,  and  wipe  the  birds  outside 
and  inside  with  a  wet  cloth.  Be  careful  to  remove  any 
shot  in  the  flesh.  Cut  the  wings  and  neck  off  close  to 
the  body,  but  leave  the  feet  on.  Take  two  oysters  to 
each  bird,  dip  them  in  melted  butter,  then  in  cracker 
crumbs  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Put  them  into 
the  body,  tie  the  feet  and  fasten  them  through  the  tail 
with  a  small  wooden  skewer  so  they  will  cover  the  open- 
ing. Rub  the  breasts  with  softened  butter  and  dredge  with 
flour.  Pin  a  thin  piece  of  fat  salt  pork  on  the  breast, 
arrange  them  in  a  baking  pan  so  they  will  keep  breast 
up.  Place  them  in  a  hot  oven  and  bake  twelve  minutes. 
Baste  with  melted  butter  and  water  three  times  during  the 
baking.  They  have  a  dry  white  meat,  and  should  be  well 
done  and  be  basted  frequently  to  make  them  delicious. 

Have  ready  a  small  slice  of  nicely  toasted  bread,  no 


Chafing-dish.  507 


crusts,  and  moisten  it  slightly  with  hot  salt  water.  Dish 
the  birds  on  the  toast  without  spilling  any  of  the  juice 
from  the  inside,  as  this  is  needed  on  the  toast.  Remove 
the  skewers  and  pork,  and  garnish  with  cauliflower. 

Broiled  Squabs.  —  Remove  the  feathers,  split  down  the 
back,  remove  the  entrails,  and  wipe  clean.  Rub  all  over 
with  soft  butter,  and  dredge  with  salt  and  pepper.  Lay 
them  in  a  piece  of  buttered  letter-paper,  inside  down,  cross 
the  legs  over  the  outside,  and  fold  the  edges  under  to  shape 
it  well.  Fold  the  paper  over  and  fold  the  edges  together. 
Broil  over  a  clear  fire  about  eight  minutes.  Spread  cur- 
rant-jelly on  some  hot  buttered  toast;  lay  a  bird  on  each 
slice,  with  a  little  jelly  on  the  breast.  Pour  over  them 
the  juice  from  the  papers,  and  serve  very  hot. 

ON  THE  CHAFING-DISH. 

Scrambled  Eggs. —  Spread  four  slices  of  hot  toast  with 
a  thin  layer  of  potted  ham.  Beat  four  eggs  slightly  with 
a  fork,  season  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  half  &  cupful  of 
milk.  Turn  into  a  hot  buttered  chafing-pan,  and  stir 
with  a  fork  until  the  egg  is  slightly  thickened.  Turn  at 
once  on  the  toast,  and  serve  quickly. 

Tomato  Omelet.  —  Fry  three  slices  of  bacon  crisp,  re- 
move it,  and  in  the  same  fat  cook  one  sliced  onion  until 
light  brown.  Beat  three  eggs  slightly,  season  with  cay- 
enne, add  three  tablespoonfuls  of  thick  stewed  tomato, 
the  fried  onions  and  the  crisp  bacon,  finely  crumbled. 
Turn  into  a  greased  chafing-pan,  and  pick  it  up  with  a 
fork  as  the  egg  thickens,  then  let  it  color  slightly,  roll 
over  and  turn  out  onto  a  hot  platter. 

Scotch  "Woodcock.  —  First  toast  and  butter  some  bread 
on  both  sides,  and  spread  on  this  some  chopped  anchovies. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  four  eggs  with  half  a  pint  of  cream,  and 
thicken  this  for  a  few  moments  in  the  chafing-dish  without 
letting  it  come  to  a  boil.  Arrange  the  small  pieces  of 
toast  into  a  little  pyramid  and  pour  the  egg  over  it 


508  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 


Deviled  Eggs  and  Anchovy  Toast.  —  Put  a  loalnut  of 
butter  in  the  chafing-dish,  half  &  teaspoonful  of  dry  mus- 
tard, two  tablespoon/ills  of  tomato  sauce,  one  tablespoonful 
of  Worcestershire,  and  one  of  mushroom  catsup.  Put  into 
this  four  hard-boiled  eggs,  sliced,  salted,  and  peppered. 
When  heated,  place  the  eggs  on  toast  previously  spread 
with  anchovy  paste. 

Creamed  Eggs.  —  Put  into  the  chafing-dish  one  tea- 
spoonful  butter  and  place  the  pan  over  the  bath.  Beat 
three  eggs  slightly,  add  half  a  cup  thin  cream  and  a  salt- 
spoonful  pepper.  Turn  into  the  butter  and  stir  constantly 
as  it  thickens.  Sprinkle  with  salt,  and  turn  out  while 
moist  and  soft. 

Lobster  Newberg.  —  Remove  the  meat  from  a  large 
lobster  and  cut  it  into  half-inch  pieces.  Have  ready  the 
yolks  of  four  eggs  beaten  with  one  pint  of  rich  cream. 
Put  two  heaped  tablespoons  of  butter  into  a  hot  chafing- 
dish,  remove  the  pan  containing  the  hot  water,  and  cover 
it  while  you  put  the  blazer  over  the  flame.  Add  to  the 
lobster,  four  tablespoons  of  sherry,  one  tablespoon  of 
brandy,  and  a  saltspoon  of  red  pepper,  and  let  them  cook 
five  minutes.  Place  the  pan  of  boiling  water  underneath, 
and  then  stir  the  cream  and  egg  mixture  in,  and  stir 
thoroughly.  Remove  as  soon  as  the  egg  has  thickened, 
that  it  may  not  curdle. 

Lobster  Newberg,  No.  2.  —  Prepare  one  pint  lobster  dice. 
Beat  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  one  pint  of  cream,  and  one 
glass  of  sherry.  Cook  them  in  a  double  boiler,  or  in  a 
chafing-dish  over  boiling  water,  and  stir  constantly  until 
thick  and  smooth.  Add  half  a  teaspoon  of  salt  and  a 
saltspoon  of  paprika.  Add  the  diced  lobster,  and  merely 
let  them  get  hot,  and  serve  at  once. 

Lobster  Newberg,  No.  3.  —  Cook  one  pint  diced  lobster 
in  one  rounded  tablesj  oon  butter  in  a  saucepan,  add  one 
level  teaspoon  salt,  one-quarter  teaspoon  paprika,  and 


Oysters.  509 

four  tablespoons  of  Madeira  or  sherry  wine.  Cook  five 
minutes.  Beat  yolks  of  two  eggs,  add  half  a  cup  of 
cream,  and  stir  in  quickly  and  remove  at  once  before  the 
egg  curdles. 

Panned  Oysters  with  Celery. —  Put  into  the  chafing-dish 
one  tablespoonfnl  of  butter,  and  when  melted  add  one 
heaped  tablespoonful  fine  cut  celery,  half  a  tablespoonful 
of  paprika,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  the  juice  of 
7m(/*  a  lemon.  When  very  hot,  add  one  pint  of  oysters, 
previously  picked  over  and  drained.  Cook  until  the 
edges  curl.  Add  one  cup  of  cream,  and  when  this  is  hot 
serve  on  toast. 

Oysters  a  la  Demerara.  —  Put  one  pint  of  prepared 
oysters  in  the  chafing-dish  and  cook  until  the  edges  curl. 
Drain  off  the  water,  add  to  the  oysters  two  tablespoonfuls 
of  butter,  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt,  and  two  tablespoon- 
fuls of  mango  chutney  sauce  and  two  of  Al  sauce.  Serve 
on  Marguerite  wafers. 

Oysters  a  la  Maitre  d'Hdtel.  —  Pick  over  one  pint  of 
large  oysters,  put  them  in  the  chafing-dish  and  heat 
quickly  until  the  juice  flows.  Pour  off  the  liquor.  Then 
into  the  lower  pan  put  one  tablespoonful  of  butter,  and, 
when  hot  and  beginning  to  color,  lay  in  the  oysters  and 
brown  them  slightly.  Season  with  salt  and  pepper;  turn, 
and,  when  brown,  squeeze  juice  of  half  a  lemon  over  and 
serve  at  once. 

Creighton  Oysters.  —  Put  into  the  chafing-dish  one  table- 
spoonful  butter,  one  tablespoonful  jlour,  one  saltspoon- 
ful  paprika,  one  saltspoonful  salt,  one  tablespoonful 
mushroom  catsup,  one  teaspoonful  lemon  juice,  and  one 
tablespoonful  Al  sauce.  Cook  five  minutes,  add  one  pint 
oysters  picked  over  and  drained,  and  cook  until  the  edges 
curl.  Serve  on  wafers  or  toast. 

Curry  of  Scallops.  —  Put  one  teaspoonful  of  butter  in 
the  chafing-dish,  and  when  melted  add  one  tablespoonful 


5io 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


of  minced  onion.  After  this  is  browned,  stir  in  one  tea- 
spoonful  of  curry  powder.  Cook  for  five  minutes,  then 
add  one  pint  of  white  stock  and  let  it  simmer  until  re- 
duced about  one-half.  Put  in  one  pint  of  scallops,  pre- 
viously parboiled  fifteen  minutes,  and  cook  from  five  to 
ten  minutes.  Add  salt  to  taste. 

Crab  Terrapin.  —  One  pint  of  canned  or  fresh  crab 
meat,  chopped  fine.  Boil  one  and  a  half  cups  of  cream. 
Blend  two  tablespoonfuls  butter  and  two  of  flour  together, 
add  the  sifted  yolks  of  four  hard  boiled  eggs.  Thin  this 
with  a  little  of  the  hot  milk,  then  stir  it  into  the  re- 
mainder. Season  with  salt  and  cayenne.  Add  the  crab 
meat  and  quarter  of  a  cup  of  sherry  wine,  and  when  hot 
serve  in  bouillon  cups. 

Clams  a  la  Newberg.  —  One  pint  raw  clams,  take  out 
the  soft  part,  remove  the  black  end,  and  chop  the  tough 
parts  very  fine. 

Put  one  tablespoon  of  butter  in  a  stewpan  with  one-half 
teaspoon  salt  and  a  saltspoon  of  paprika,  add  the  clams, 
and  simmer  ten  minutes.  Then  add  two  tablespoons  of 
sherry  and  the  soft  part.  Beat  yolks  of  two  eggs,  mix 
with  half  a  cup  of  cream,  and  stir  in  quickly  and  remove 
as  soon  as  the  egg  thickens. 

Sardines  a  la  Sterneau.  —  Drain  off  the  oil  from  half  a 
can  of  boneless  sardines.  Put  them  in  the  chafing-dish 
and  mash  with  a  silver  fork.  When  hot,  add  one  table- 
spoonful  lemon  juice,  one  tablespoonful  walnut  catsup, 
and  one  tablespoonful  Al  sauce.  Mix  thoroughly,  spread 
on  wafers,  and  serve  very  hot. 

Dried  Beef  and  Celery.  —  Cut  small  one  cup  celery,  and 
boil  until  tender  in  water  enough  to  cover,  adding  a  little 
more  as  it  boils  away.  When  soft,  add  half  a  cup  sliced 
dried  beef  cut  up  very  fine,  and  one  tablespoonful  of  flour, 
mixed  with  the  same  amount  of  butter,  half  a  cup  of  milk, 
and  a  little  salt  and  pepper. 


Rarebit.  511 


Sausages  Sauted.  —  Cut  large,  thick  sausages  or  the 
sausage  cakes  into  thin  slices.  Brown  them  quickly  in 
hot  butter  or  bacon  fat  in  the  chafing-dish ;  add  a  little 
chopped  celery  and  paprika,  and  serve  on  toast. 

Welsh  Rarebit,  with  Ale.  —  Put  into  the  blazer  over 
hot-water  pan,  one  tablespoon  of  butter,  a  little  salt,  a 
few  grains  of  cayenne,  and  mustard,  if  liked,  and  one-half 
pound  of  rich  cream  cheese  crumbled  fine.  Stir  as  it 
melts,  and  add  ale  gradually  till  thin  and  smooth. 

Welsh  Rarebit,  without  Ale. — Have  ready  one  level 
tablespoon  butter  creamed  with  one  level  teaspoon  corn- 
starch,  one-fourth  teaspoon  salt,  and  few  grains  cayenne, 
also  one-half  pound  cheese  grated  or  crumbled  fine,  one-half 
teaspoon  mushroom  catsup,  and  some  wafers,  or  squares 
of  delicate  toast.  Heat  one-half  cup  cream  in  the  blazer, 
and  blend  with  it  the  butter  mixture.  When  thick,  set 
it  over  the  hot  water,  add  the  cheese  and  catsup,  stir  till 
melted,  then  pour  it  over  the  wafers. 

Roquefort  Rarebit.  —  Take  about  one-eighth  pound  of 
Roquefort  cheese,  mash  it  with  a  silver  fork  on  a  plate 
until  soft,  stir  in  half  a  teaspoonful  salt  and  the  same  of 
mustard,  and  one  inch  cube  of  soft  butter.  Add  ale  suf- 
ficient to  blend  the  whole  into  a  creamy  mass.  Spread 
it  on  wafers,  and  serve  at  once. 

Mushrooms,  Cream  Saute. — Wipe  or  wash  if  needed, 
peel,  cut  stems  fine,  and  if  tough  stew  in  a  little  milk. 
Slice  or  quarter  the  tops,  cook  them  five  minutes  in  plenty 
of  butter,  then  add  cream  sufficient  to  make  a  sauce, 
sprinkle  with  salt  and  pepper,  add  the  stems  and  simmer 
a  few  minutes,  or  till  tender,  adding  more  cream  if 
needed.  There  should  be  sauce  enough  to  moisten  the 
toast.  This  is  one  of  the  simplest  and  most  delicious 
ways  of  cooking  mushrooms,  especially  the  late  varieties. 


512  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Panocha. 
M.  E.  Johnston.] 

4  cups  browii  sugar. 
1  tsp.  salt. 
1  tbsp.  butter. 

2  tbsp.  vanilla. 
1  cup  milk. 
2  cups  chopped  walnuts. 

Boil  the  sugar,  butter,  salt,  and  milk  until  it  drops  hard 
in  cold  water.  When  done,  pour  in  the  vanilla  and  wal- 
nuts, and  stir  constantly  until  well  mixed.  Pour  on  a 
buttered  plate  and  cut  into  squares. 


String  1  qt.  butter  beans. 

Beans,  1  hpd.  tbsp.  butter. 

German  1  saltsp.  pepper. 
Style. 


1  saltsp.  nutmeg. 
1  tsp.  salt. 


Break  off  the  ends  and  strings,  and  if  the  latter  do  not 
come  off  readily,  take  a  thin  sharp  paring  knife  and  pare  off 
the  thickest  string  on  the  inside  edge  of  the  pod,  taking  as 
thin  a  strip  as  possible.  Hold  the  bean  with  this  edge 
toward  you,  and  cut  in  thin  slanting  pieces  not  more  than 
an  inch  and  a  half  long,  holding  the  back  edge  of  the 
pod  against  the  left  forefinger.  I  give  this  minute 
direction  because  many  of  my  pupils  have  found  it  dif- 
ficult to  get  the  knack  of  cutting  them  "on  the  bias,"  as 
we  call  it,  and  it  does  make  a  difference  in  the  flavor  if 
they  are  broken  or  snapped  in  the  old  way.  It  takes 
time  to  do  this,  but  after  you  learn  the  art,  it  can  be 
done  as  quickly  as  one  shells  peas.  Beans  prepared  in 
this  way  require  much  less  time  for  cooking,  and  house- 
keepers who  often  give  up  having  a  dinner  of  string  beans 
because  they  could  not  get  them  on  at  nine  o'clock,  or  do 
not  want  a  hot  fire  all  the  morning,  will  do  well  to  try 
this  recipe.  Do  not  be  afraid  to  use  the  nutmeg.  You 
will  not  recognize  it,  yet  you  will  miss  something  if  you 
omit  it. 

If  the  beans  are  not  fresh  from  the  vines,  it  may  be 
well  to  put  them  in  cold  water  before  cutting,  to  make 
them  more  crisp  and  firm.  After  slicing,  put  them  again 
into  cold  water,  but  do  not  prepare  them  more  than  half 
an  hour  before  needed.  Put  the  butter,  salt,  pepper,  and 
nutmeg  into  a  broad  granite  stewpan  having  a  tight  cover, 


Puree  of  Green  Beans.  5 1 3 

and  when  the  butter  is  melted,  take  the  beans  from  the 
water  in  handfuls,  with  only  the  water  that  clings  to 
them,  and  put  them  into  the  butter. 

Add  no  more  water.  Cover  tightly,  and  as  soon  as 
they  are  hot  set  them  where  they  will  cook  very  slowly. 
The  butter  and  .liquid  that  is  drawn  from  the  beans  will 
make  sufficient  moisture  to  steam  the  beans,  and  they  will 
be  perfectly  tender  if  cooked  slowly  and  of  finer  flavor  than 
when  deluged  with  water.  Stir  them  up  from  the  bottom 
occasionally,  and  so  long  as  there  is  barely  liquid  enough 
to  cover  the  bottom  of  the  pan  they  are  safe.  If  they 
cook  too  rapidly,  and  become  quite  dry,  you  may  add  two 
or  three  tablespoon fuls  of  water.  They  should  be  quite  " 
flry  except  for  the  coating  of  butter,  when  done,  and 
being  already  seasoned  they  are  simply  turned  into  the 
<lish  and  sent  at  once  to  the  table. 

Small  fresh-picked  beans  will  cook  in  from  thirty  to 
forty  minutes,  larger  or  stale  ones  sometimes  require 
nearly  an  hour.  It  will  do  no  harm  to  let  them  stand 
some  time  in  the  kettle  on  the  back  of  the  stove  or  be- 
yond the  chance  of  burning,  if  they  are  tender  before  you 
are  ready  for  them. 

Fure'e  of  Green  Beans.  —  One  of  the  most  wholesome, 
delicious,  and  convenient  ways  of  using  Lima  or  other 
shelled  beans  while  in  the  green  state  is  in  a  puree. 
Cook  the  beans  in  boiling  water  for  ten  minutes,  then 
drain,  rinse,  and  put  again  into  boiling  water,  plenty  of  it, 
and  cook  until  very  tender.  Turn  into  a  puree  strainer 
and  press  all  the  pulp  through.  Put  on  to  boil  again,  and 
add  milk  or  cream  sufficient  to  make  it  the  usual  puree 
consistency.  For  each  quart  of  the  mixture,  cook  one 
tablespoouful  each  of  butter  and  flour  together  as  for 
white  sauce,  and  stir  it  into  the  boiling  liquid.  Season 
with  salt  and  pepper.  Serve  with  wafers. 

It  is  convenient  to  cook  a  quantity  of  the  beans  at  once 
And  sift  them,  then  add  milk  and  thickening  only  to  what- 
ever portion  may  be  needed  for  that  meal. 

33 


5*14  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Cucumber  Sauce.  —  Pare  two  cucumbers.  Cut  length- 
wise in  quarters,  remove  the  seeds  if  large,  chop  fine  and 
squeeze  dry.  Season  with  salt,  paprika ,,and  vinegar,  and 
stir  in  one-half  cup  of  thick  cream  whipped  stiff.  This  is 
especially  suitable  for  broiled  fish. 

Stewed  Cucumbers.  —  Pare  the  large  cucumbers,  cut 
lengthwise  into  four  parts,  and  remove  the  large  seeds. 
Soak  them  half  an  hour  in  cold  water.  Cook  in  boiling 
salted  water  to  cover  until  tender.  Drain  off  the  water  ; 
add  a  little  butter,  salt,  and  pepper,  and,  when  well 
heated,  serve  on  toast ;  or  make  a  thin  white  sauce  and 
pour  over  them.  This  is  worth  trying. 

Heidelberg  Carrots.  —  Wash  and  scrape  three  medium- 
sized  carrots,  cut  into  pieces  about  an  inch  and  a  half 
long,  then  into  thin  slices  lengthwise,  and  then  again  into 
thin  strips  about  like  short  matches.  Put  them  into  cold 
water  for  a  few  moments,  and  then  cook  in  boiling  salted 
water,  barely  enough  to  keep  from  burning.  They  will 
cook  tender  in  from  twenty  to  thirty  minutes.  For  about 
one  pint  of  the  carrot  allow  one  heaping  teaspoon  each  of 
butter  and  flour,  creamed  together;  stir  it  into  the  boiling 
liquid.  There  should  be  but  a  few  spoonfuls,  but  by 
tipping  the  pan  toward  you  they  can  be  blended  easily. 
Add  half  a  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  a  little  pepper,  let  it 
boil  about  five  minutes,  then  sprinkle  over  a  little  fine 
parsley ;  turn  into  the  dish  and  sprinkle  again  with  pars- 
ley, using  about  one  teaspoonful  in  all. 

Sweet  Carrots.  —  The  carrots  are  best  cut  in  quarter 
inch  dice.  Boil  them  in  salt  water  uncovered.  When 
they  are  almost  tender,  pour  off  all  but  perhaps  a  quarter 
of  a  cup  of  the  water,  put  them  back  on  the  stove, 
sprinkle  with  two  or  three  table  spoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
allow  them  to  cook  until  the  water  has  boiled  away,  shak- 
ing the  pot  occasionally  and  shifting  the  carrots  from  top 
to  bottom  with  a  fork  that  they  may  all  come  in  contact 
with  the  sweetened  water.  They  should  be  decidedly 


Italian  Chestnuts.  515 

sweet.  When  the  liquid  is  absorbed,  melt  a  tablespoon- 
ful  of  butter  in  the  carrots,  and  pour  over  a  teaspoonful 
of  lemon  juice,  and  they  are  ready. 

German  Cabbage.  —  Cut  a  two-inch  cube  of  fat  salt  pork 
in  dice  and  fry  it  slightly  in  the  bottom  of  the  stewpan, 
add  one  cup  of  boiling  water,  and  two  quarts  of  shredded 
cabbage,  and  one  sour  apple  cut  fine.  Cook  one  hour  very 
slowly.  When  it  is  half  done,  add  half  a  cup  of  vinegar. 

Summer  Squash. — Use  only  very  young,  tender 
squashes.  Wash  and  cut  off  the  stem,  lay  them  in  a 
kettle  with  barely  water  enough  to  keep  them  from 
burning  on,  and  cook  until  tender.  Drain  and  let  the 
water  boil  down  to  a  thick  syrup,  add  butter,  salt  and 
pepper.  Cut  the  squash  in  portions  for  serving,  and 
pour  the  seasoned  sauce  over  it.  In  this  way  the  deli- 
cate flavor  of  the  squash  is  retained. 

Summer  Squash,  JTo.  2.  —  Steam  the  squash  until  tender. 
Then  put  into  a  cheese-cloth  strainer  and  squeeze  out 
some  of  the  water.  Mash  and  break  up  fine,  and  season 
with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 

Fried  Squash.  —  Cut  young  tender  squash  in  half -inch 
slices,  dip  in  flour  seasoned  with  salt  and  pepper.  Cook 
slowly  in  hot  butter  or  salt  pork  fat,  until  browned. 

Italian  Chestnuts.  (Lia  Rand.)  —  Two  pounds  of  large  v 
chestnuts,  the  shells  taken  clean  off  with  a  very  sharp 
knife.  Pour  boiling  water  over  them  and  the  under  skin 
will  come  off  readily.  Peel  and  cut  up/o?*r  red  onions, 
stew  them  in  butter  until  soft,  but  not  brown.  Add  the 
peeled  chestnuts,  and  pour  over  them  enough  soup  stock 
to  keep  them  moist  without  burning.  Salt  them  but  not 
too  much.  When  the  chestnuts  are  nearly  done,  add  to 
them  four  large  apples  peeled,  cored,  and  sliced.  Add 
them  to  the  chestnuts,  and  let  them  simmer  until  done. 
Then  add  sugar  to  taste. 

This  dish  has  a  very  rich  flavor,  and  may  be  well  worth 
trying  by  those  who  want  a  new  combination. 


516  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Many  poor  families  in  Italy  derive  their  principal  sus- 
tenance from  the  fruit  of  the  chestnut- trees.  The  nuts 
are  peeled,  dried  in  the  sun,  ground  into  flour,  and  made 
into  bread.  The  chestnuts  are  used  also  in  soups,  sauces, 
purees,  forcemeats,  entrees,  and  sweet  dishes  for  dessert. 

Barley  a  la  Strassburg.  — Pour  boiling  water  over  half 
a  cup  of  pearl  barley ;  remove  any  specks  or  insects,  and 
drain  dry.  Melt  one  tablespoon  butter  in  a  stewpan ;  add 
the  barley,  and  let  it  cook  until  slightly  browned  and  it 
has  absorbed  the  butter.  Then  add  one  quart  of  thin 
stock  and  let  it  boil  until  tender  and  dry.  Season  with 
salt  and  serve  as  a  vegetable. 

Lentil  Hash.  (Dr.  Alice  B.  /Stockton.)  —  Take  one  pint 
cooked  lentils,  one-half  pint  of  cold  potatoes  chopped  fine, 
two  tablespoonfuls  chopped  onions,  one  tablespoonful  salt, 
one-half  teaspoonful  pepper,  two  tablespoonfuls  butter,  one- 
half  cup  milk,  cook  slowly  for  an  hour,  then  brown  and  turn. 

The  lentils  used  for  the  above  should  already  have  been 
cooked  at  least  eight  hours  in  a  double  boiler  at  a  tem- 
perature of  about  200°.  When  thus  cooked  they  can  be 
used  for  hash,  croquettes,  soup,  and  many  other  purposes. 

B.  B.  B.  Cakes.  —  A  cupful  more  or  less  of  cold  baked 
beans  may  be  left  after  the  family  are  tired  of  seeing  this 
dish  for  Saturday's  supper,  Sunday's  breakfast,  and  wash- 
ing day  lunch,  and  yet  it  seems  wasteful  to  throw  them 
away.  Sift  them,  and  if  very  dry  add  a  little  hot  water 
to  moisten  enough  to  shape  them  into  small  flat  cakes. 
First  season  them  with  salt,  if  needed,  and  mustard.  Cook 
one  tablespoonful  of  chopped  onion  in  a  little  pork  fat  or 
butter,  and  when  slightly  colored  put  in  the  cakes  and 
brown  on  each  side.  Serve  with  toasted  brown  bread. 

Baked  Corn  and  Beans. — Take  equal  quantities  of  shelled 
beans  and  sweet  corn  cut  from  the  cob,  —  put  them  into 
a  bean-pot  in  layers,  sprinkling  salt  and  pepper  between 
each  layer.  For  one  pint  each  of  corn  and  beans  take 
one-half  pound  salt  pork,  score  the  rind  and  place  in  the 


Mushrooms.  5  r  7 


top  of  the  bean-pot,  letting  the  rind  come  up  even  with 
the  corn  and  beans.  Cover  with  boiling  water  and  bake 
slowly  seven  or  eight  hours,  adding  more  water  as  it 
cooks  away. 

A  Rice  Course  for  a  Green-  and  -White  Luncheon.  — 
Put  one  cup  of  rice  and  one  cup  and  a  half  of  boiling  water 
in  a  small  tightly  covered  stewpan  over  the  fire,  and  let  it 
boil  rapidly  without  raising  the  cover  until  the  steam  from 
the  rice  lifts  the  cover.  When  done,  the  rice  will  be  full 
of  steam  holes.  Season  with  salt,  pepper,  and  butter. 
Drain  the  liquor  from  a  can  of  peas,  rinse  them  in  cold 
water;  put  on  to  heat,  with  one  tablespoon  of  butter; 
salt,  pepper,  and  sugar  to  taste. 

Arrange  a  portion  of  rice  on  a  lettuce  leaf,  making  a 
slight  depression  in  the  centre,  into  which  pile  a  portion 
of  the  peas.  Sprinkle  a  little  grated  cheese  over  the  whole. 

Mushrooms.  Campestris.  —  Clean,  peel  the  caps,  and 
broil  from  six  to  ten  minutes.  Cook  the  gill  side  first. 
When  done,  spread  at  once  with  butter,  creamed  and 
flavored  with  lemon  and  parsley. 

Baked  Mushrooms. —  Place  the  caps  on  toast,  spread 
with  prepared  mattre  d'hotel  butter,  and  bake  in  a  cov- 
ered dish  from  twelve  to  fifteen  minutes. 

Fri^d  Green  Tomatoes. —  Cut  off  both  ends  from  nice, 
large,  green  tomatoes,  cut  in  thin  slices ;  roll  them  in 
flour,  and  cook  them  in  hot  butter  in  the  frying-pan. 
Sprinkle  with  salt,  pepper,  and  sugar,  and  cook  until 
brown.  Fry  a  sliced  onion  with  them  if  you  like  the 
flavor.  Serve  them  with  fish-balls. 

Potatoes  au  Oratin.  —  One  cup  white  sauce,  one  pint 
cold  boiled  potato  dice,  one-half  cup  cracker  crumbs  moist- 
ened with  one  tablespoon  melted  butter,  and  one-half  cup 
clieese.  Put  potatoes,  cheese,  and  sauce,  two  layers  of 
each,  in  buttered  baking  dish,  cover  with  crumbs  and 
bake  fifteen  minutes. 


518  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 

Potatoes  Warmed  in  Stock.  —  Cut  into  half-inch  dice, 
or  into  thin  slices,  enough  cold  boiled  potatoes  to  make 
one  pint.  Season  well  with  salt,  pepper,  fine-chopped  pars- 
ley, and  one  teaspoon  of  lemon  juice.  Cook  one  sliced 
onion  in  one  tablespoon  beef  dripping  until  you  have  a 
strong  odor  of  the  onion,  but  do  not  burn  them.  Add 
the  potatoes,  and  cook  a  few  minutes,  or  until  slightly 
browned;  toss  them  up  and  brown  again,  then  add  one 
cup  of  corned  beef  liquor,  and  let  them  simmer  until  the 
liquor  is  nearly  absorbed.  One-fourth  part  of  cold  beet 
and  vinegar  may  take  the  place  of  the  parsley  and  lemon, 
to  make  another  variety. 

Radishes.  — The  small,  smooth,  round,  or  slightly  oval 
red  radishes  are  generally  preferred,  although  occasionally 
we  find  the  long  pointed  varieties  both  red  and  white.  The 
red  skin  is  sometimes  nearly  removed  by  scraping,  as  it  is 
objectionable  to  some  tastes,  but  it  adds  so  much  to  the 
attractive  appearance  of  the  table  that  it  seems  a  pity  to 
lose  it.  Trim  off  the  fine  roots  and  cut  the  leaves  about 
an  inch  from  the  root.  The  delicate  green  will  contrast 
prettily  with  the  red,  and  the  stems  make  a  convenient 
handle.  Put  them  in  a  pan  of  ice  water  till  firm  and 
crisp.  With  a  small  sharp  knife  begin  at  the  point,  and 
make  several  slight  incisions  through  the  skin  merely, 
down  about  half-way  and  one-third  inch  or  more  apart. 
Slip  the  point  of  the  knife  under  the  skin  at  each  point 
and  separate  it  from  the  flesh.  Press  the  points  outward 
slightly,  then  let  them  remain  in  ice  .water,  and  when 
ready  to  serve  you  will  find  them  open  at  the  cut  end  like 
a  flower.  When  the  radishes  are  large,  the  point  of  each 
petal  may  be  rounded  off  slightly  to  imitate  a  tulip.  Use 
them  as  a  garnish  for  meat  or  salads,  or  arrange  them  in 
a  small  glass  dish,  as  a  part  of  the  table  decoration,  or 
serve  two  with  two  or  three  olives  on  fancy  individual 
dishes  at  each  plate.  Salt  is  the  only  condiment  needed. 

Spring  Salad.  —  In  a  salad  bowl  put  first  a  layer  of 
fresh*  crisp  watercress,  then  a  layer  of  thinly  sliced  cu- 


Salads.  519 


cumbers  which  have  been  soaked  in  cold  water  fifteen 
minutes,  then  a  teaspoouful  of  minced  chives,  then  an- 
other layer  of  cucumbers,  and  around  the  edge  a  light 
border  of  the  cresses.  When  ready  to  serve,  pour  a 
French  dressing  over  it  and  toss  it  over  until  well 
mingled.  This  is  appropriate  to  serve  with  a  course  of 
broiled  fish. 


Lincoln    1  quart  oysters. 
Salad.       3  cucumbers. 
1  tsp.  salt. 


1  saltsp.  black  pepper. 
1  bunch  watercresses. 
cream  dressing  to  moisten. 


Pick  over  the  oysters  and  parboil  until  the  edges  curl, 
drain  very  dry,  cool  and  cut  into  small  uniform  pieces. 
Pare  the  cucumbers  and  leave  in  cold  water  until  needed. 
Then  cut  into  quarters  lengthwise  (sixths,  if  very  large), 
trim  off  the  edge  containing  the  seeds,  then  dry  on  a 
towel  and  cut  into  thin  slices.  Season  them  highly  with 
salt  and  black  pepper,  and  add  them  to  the  oysters. 
Moisten  with  cream  dressing,  turn  into  a  salad  bowl 
lined  with  cresses,  put  some  of  the  best  sprigs  on  the 
edge,  and  cover  with  the  remainder  of  the  dressing. 

German  Cucumber  Salad.  —  The  slightly  acid  juice  of 
the  cucumber  is  disagreeable  to  many  delicate  stomachs, 
and  this  is  drawn  out  largely  by  this  method  of  preparing 
them.  We  have  been  taught  that  cucumbers  should  be 
crisp  and  firm,  and  that  if  wilted  or  soft  they  were  not 
suitable  to  serve.  But  I  have  eaten  them  frequently  dur- 
ing the  last  season,  prepared  as  below,  and  found  them 
delicious  and  less  likely  to  remind  me  of  their  presence  in 
my  internal  economy  than  when  served  in  our  way. 

This  method  also  enables  one  to  use  cucumbers  that  are 
older  than  we  generally  like  to  have  them,  as  the  seeds 
which  are  the  objectionable  part  when  the  fruit  is  too 
ripe,  are  not  served. 

Pare  the  cucumbers,  and  then  cut  them  in  half-inch 
slices.  Then  pare  each  slice  as  thinly  as  possible  from 
the  outside  to  the  seed  part,  making  a  long,  thin,  curling 
strip.  Cover  them  with  cold  water  and  add  one  .round 


520  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

teaspoon  of  salt  for  each  cucumber.  Let  them  soak  until 
soft,  from  one  to  two  hours.  Then  drain  off  the  water 
and  squeeze  them  in  a  soft  cloth  until  quite  dry.  Toss 
them  up  in  a  salad  bowl  and  dress  with  cayenne,  oil,  and 
vinegar,  and  serve  very  cold. 

Apple  and  Celery  Salad.— Have  the  celery  nicely  cleaned 
and  crisped  by  keeping  it  in  a  damp  napkin  on  the  ice 
until  just  before  ready  to  use.  Then  cut  it  into  thin 
crescent-shaped  slices.  With  a  silver  knife  pare  and 
core  some  mildly  tart  apples,  cut  into  eighths  or  narrower, 
if  very  large  apples  are  used,  and  then  cut  across  the 
sections  into  thin  slices.  Use  equal  parts  of  celery  and 
apple.  Mix  in  sufficient  mayonnaise  dressing  to  hold  the 
pieces  together.  Arrange  crisp  cup-shaped  lettuce  leaves 
on  a  pretty  shallow  dish,  put  a  portion  of  the  mixture  on 
each  leaf,  dot  the  top  with  a  teaspoon  of  the  mayonnaise, 
and  serve  quickly.  Do  not  pare  the  apple  until  ready  to 
put  the  mixture  together.  A  simple  French  dressing  may 
be  used  if  preferred,  and  by  many  would  be  thought  more 
suitable  for  a  dinner  salad. 

No.  2.  —  Whip  one  cup  of  .thick  well-chilled  cream*,  with 
an  egg-beater  or  fork  until  thick,  then  add  gradually  suf- 
ficient lemon  juice  to  thin  it  slightly,  and  season  with  half 
a  teaspoonful  of  celery  salt  and  a  spoonful  of  paprika. 
Use  a  thin-skinned  tart  apple.  Wipe,  quarter,  and  core 
without  paring,  divide  again  lengthwise  into  two  or  three 
pieces,  then  slice  very  thin.  For  two  cups  of  the  apple 
use  one  cup  of  fine  cut  celery.  Moisten  with  the  cream 
dressing.  Season  to  taste  with  salt  and  pepper.  Arrange 
in  a  shallow  glass  dish  and  garnish  with  green  celery  tips 
and  crescents  of  the  red  apples. 

Chestnut,  Apple,  and  Celery  Salad.  —  Prepare  the  apple 
and  celery  as  directed  in  the  first  recipe.  Shell,  parboil, 
and  skin  the  large  French  chestnuts.  Boil  twelve  min- 
utes, or  until  soft,  but  not  broken.  Drain,  and  when  dool 


Salads. 


cut  them  into  thin  slices.  Use  one  cup  of  each  measured 
after  slicing.  Season  highly  with  a  French  dressing,  and 
keep  in  a  cold  place.  Serve  in  a  salad  bowl  surrounded 
with  crisp  lettuce. 

Apple  and  Onion  Salad.  —  Boil  one  cup  of  vinegar.  If 
strong,  use  half  water.  Mix  one  teaspoonful  mustard,  one 
teaspoonful  cornstarch,  one-half  teaspoonful  salt,  and  one- 
half saltspoonful  pepper  with  one  well- beaten  egg.  Stir  this 
into  the  boiling  vinegar  and  cook  until  creamy.  Pour  it 
over  tivo  mildly  acid  apples  and  one  onion  chopped  fine. 
Serve  it  with  lettuce  cups. 

Nut  Salad.  — Equal  parts  of  apple,  celery,  and  nuts. 
Cut  the  apple  in  eighths,  pare  and  cut  from  the  end  in 
thin  slices.  Split  the  celery  stalks  if  they  are  wide,  and 
then  lay  several  together  and  shave  off  in  thin  crescents. 

Use  almonds,  peanuts,  pecans,  or  walnuts.  Salted  al- 
monds and  peanuts  may  be  chopped  medium  fine,  pecans 
and  walnuts  crumbled,  or  chopped.  Some  prefer  to  par- 
boil the  walnuts  and  remove  the  skin ;  the  slight  cooking 
softens  them  somewhat.  It  is  not  necessary  to  have 
equal  parts  of  each,  for  with  almost  any  proportion  that 
I  have  chanced  to  have,  if  the  seasoning  has  been  right, 
the  salad  has  been  good. 

Mix  with  a  mayonnaise  dressing  and  serve  with  or 
without  crisp  lettuce.  Salt  and  pepper  the  mixture  well 
before  adding  the  mayonnaise. 

Fruit  Salad.  —  Remove  the  sections  of  pineapple  with  a 
silver  fork.  Stone  the  cherries,  being  careful  to  save  the 
juice.  Hull  the  berries,  mix  all  together,  place  on  lettuce 
leaves  and  garnish  with  stars  of  mayonnaise  dressing. 

Another  way :  Make  a  bed  of  lettuce  leaves  on  a 
glass  dish,  keeping  the  fruit  separated  one  from  the 
other;  make  three  mounds,  and  garnish  in  the  same  way. 
Select  the  dark,  almost  black  cherries,  as  it  gives  you 
three  distinct  colors.  Use  equal  parts  of  pineapple,  cher- 
ries, and  strawberries. 


522  The  Boston  Cook  Boole. 

Fruit  Cups.  —  Cut  oranges  in  halves  and  with  a  spoon 
scoop  out  the  pulp  and  juice,  then  scrape  out  the  white 
membrane  and  set  the  cups  in  a  pan  of  ice.  Cut  Malaga 
grapes  in  halves  and  remove  the  seeds.  If  the  skins  are 
tough,  peel  them  before  cutting.  Have  equal  parts  of 
grapes  and  banana,  cut  in  small  pieces.  Add  the  juice 
of  one  lemon  to  the  juice  of  three  oranges,  and  sweeten 
it  quite  sweet.  Add  also  a  dash  of  salt.  Fill  the  orange 
cups  with  the  mixture  of  fruits,  pour  the  sweetened  juice 
over  the  fruit,  and  put  a  spoonful  of  thick  whipped  cream 
on  top.  Serve  very  cold. 

Tomato  Jelly  Salad.  —  Soak  one-half  box  of  gelatine  in 
one-half  cup  of  cold  water  fifteen  minutes,  or  till  soft. 
Stew  one  can  of  tomatoes  till  soft,  cutting  and  mashing 
the  pulp  to  hasten  the  process.  For  additional  flavoring, 
stew  with  the  tomato  a  half  inch  bit  of  bay  leaf,  one-half 
teaspoon  of  mixed  whole  spices,  one  rounded  tablespoon 
of  celery  salt,  and  one-half  a  small  Bermuda  onion.  Strain 
the  tomato  through  a  puree  sieve,  and  if  there  is  not 
enough  to  make  three  cups  add  boiling  water.  Heat 
again  to  boiling  point,  add  the  soaked  gelatine,  stir  till 
dissolved,  then  pour  it  into  small  cups  or  fancy  moulds, 
or  into  a  ring  mould,  if  individual  forms  are  not  desired. 
Chill,  and  .when  ready  to  serve,  turn  out  and  serve  the 
small  forms  on  lettuce  leaves  with  mayonnaise  on  the 
top.  Or  turn  the  ring  mould  out  on  a  salad  dish,  fill 
the  centre  with  any  salad  mixture  you  prefer,  and  garnish 
with  any  appropriate  border  of  green. 

Salad  in  Tomato  Jelly  Cups.  —  Soak  one-half  box  of 
gelatine  in  one  cup  of  cold  water  in  which  some  celery  has 
been  stewed.  Put  .into  a  stewpan  one  quart  can  of  toma- 
toes, one.  tablespoon  of  minced  parsley,  one  tablespoon 
of  chives,  one  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of 
paprika,  two  tablespoons  of  lemon  juice,  and  two  carda- 
mom seeds.  Stew  until  the  pulp  is  tender,  then  strain  it, 
without  pressure,  heat  again  to  a  boiling  point,  add  the 
soaked  gelatine  and  strain  it  again  into  a  pitcher.  Have 


Salads.  523 


ready  two  sizes  of  small  round  moulds  or  cups.  Put  the 
larger  moulds  in  a  pan  and  surround  them  with  broken 
ice.  Pour  in  jelly  to  the  depth  of  one-third  inch.  When 
firm,  place  the  smaller  mould  inside  and  add  a  few  spoon- 
fuls of  jelly  between  the  moulds.  When  this  is  firm,  add 
the  remainder  till  the  larger  moulds  are  filled.  Fill  the 
smaller  mould  with  broken  ice  to  hasten  the  process. 
When  the  jelly  is  firm,  remove  the  ice,  add  hot  water  to 
the  smaller  mould  till  it  can  be  lifted  out  carefully.  Fill 
the  space  with  oyster  salad,  or  any  preferred  salad,  and 
when  ready  to  serve,  invert  on  a  dish,  and  garnish  with 
whipped  cream  dressing  and  watercress. 

Salad  of  Remnants.  —  Mix  one  cup  of  cold  boiled  celery 
cut  in  bits,  one  cup  of  cooked  cauliflower,  and  one-half  cup 
of  canned  butter  beans.  If  you  have  no  mayonnaise 
dressing  left  over,  or  do  not  like  the  oil  in  the  plain 
French  dressing,  make  a  cream  dressing  as  follows:  Mix 
one-fourth  teaspoon  of  mustard,  one-fourth  teaspoon  of 
salt,  one-half  teaspoon  of  sugar,  and  a  few  grains  of  pap- 
rika. Add  the  yolk  of  one  egg  and  mix  well,  then  the 
white  beaten  till  foamy  (not  stiff),  and  one  tablespoon  of 
thick  cream.  Gradually  add  one-fourth  cup  of  hot  vine- 
gar, and  cook  over  boiling  water  till  it  thickens,  stirring 
constantly.  When  cold  pour  it  over  the  mixed  vege- 
tables. Or  the  vegetables  may  be  arranged  in  groups, 
each  kind  by  itself,  and  the  dressing  served  separately. 

Asparagus.  —  Break  off  the  stalks  where  they  are  tender, 
wash,  tie  in  a  bundle,  cook  in  boiling  water  till  tender. 
Drain,  cut  into  inch  pieces,  and  pour  white  sauce  over  it, 
using  only  enough  to  moisten. 

Asparagus  Salad.  —  Use  only  about  three  inches  of  the 
tip  end,  and  cook  as  directed  abore,  and  chill  it  thor- 
oughly. Serve  it  on  a  platter,  and  pass  with  it  a  French 
dressing,  served  in  small  dishes,  into  which  each  stalk 
may  be  dipped  as  desired. 


524  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Potato  Salad.  —  Boil  potatoes  without  paring,  and  re- 
move when  not  quite  soft.  Peel,  and  when  cool  slice 
thin,  and  season  with  salt  and  pepper.  To  one  quart, 
allow  one  small  onion  sliced,  and  double  the  rule  for 
French  dressing.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  add  more  oil  and 
vinegar  if  needed.  Potatoes  vary  in  the  amount  they  will 
absorb.  Chill  thoroughly,  and  serve  with  a  garnish  of 
lettuce,  parsley,  celery,  or  boiled  egg. 

French  Dressing.  —  One-fourth  teaspoon  of  salt,  one- 
eighth  teaspoon  of  pepper,  three  tablespoons  of  olive  oil, 
and  one  tablespoon  of  vinegar,  tarragon  vinegar  preferred. 

Sour  Cream  Dresssing,  No.  1.  —  Three-fourths  cup  of 
sour  cream,  fill  the  cup  with  vinegar,  stir  in  half  a  tea- 
spoonful  salt  and  one  saltspoonful  paprika. 

No.  2.  —  One  pint  thick  sour  cream,  three  tablespoonfuls 
sugar,  one  level  teaspoonful  salt,  one  saltspoonful  pap- 
rika, half  a  saltspoonful  black  pepper  two  tablespoonfuls 
vinegar. 

No.  3.  —  One  cup  sour  cream,  one  tablespoonfal  sugar, 
half  a  teaspoonful  salt,  half  a  saltspooyiful  white  pepper, 
one  tablespoonful  lemon  juice. 

No.  4.  —  Make  the  usual  mayonnaise  with  yolk  of  one 
raw  egg,  half  a  teaspoonful  salt,  one  saltspoonful  paprika, 
one  saltspoonful  mustard,  one  cup  oil  added  in  small  por- 
tions until  the  mixture  thickens,  two  tablespoonfuls  lemon 
juice,  and  when  ready  to  use,  stir  in  half  a  cup  of  sour 
cream. 

Cream  Salad  Dressing.  —  A  small  quantity  of  salad 
dressing  may  be  made  very  quickly  in  an  emergency,  by 
simply  mixing  two  teaspoonfuls  of  vinegar  or  lemon  juice 
with  four  tablespoonfuls  of  sweet  or  sour  cream,  and 
seasoning  with  a  speck  of  cayenne  and  salt  and  pepper 
to  taste. 


Sandwiches.  525 


Whipped  Cream  Dressing.  —  Surround  one  cup  of  thick 
cream  with  broken  ice,  and  whip  it  stiff  with  a  wire  whisk 
or  egg-beater.  Add  gradually  three  tablespoons  of  lemon 
juice,  three  of  grated  horse-radish,  one-half  teaspoon  of 
salt,  and  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  paprika.  It  should  be 
stiff  enough  to  keep  in  shape  when  dropped  from  the 
spoon.  Keep  it  very  cold  till  ready  to  serve.  Mix  a 
small  portion  of  it  with  the  oysters  and  cucumbers,  and 
use  the  remainder  for  a  garnish.  (See  Lincoln  Salad.) 

Lettuce  Salad  with  Claret  Dressing.  —  Mix -one  teaspoon 
of  German  mustard,  one-half  teaspoon  of  salt,  one-eighth 
teaspoon  of  freshly-ground  pepper,  four  tablespoons  of 
olive  oil,  one  tablespoon  of  claret.  Have  a  head  of  let- 
tuce washed  and  drained  dry.  Tear  it  into  bits,  put  it 
in  the  bowl,  pour  the  dressing  over  it,  and  toss  about  until 
well  dressed. 

Boiled  Dressing.  (Mrs.  Webster.) — Heat  one-half  cup 
vinegar  in  the  top  of  the  double  boiler.  In  a  small  bowl, 
mix  thoroughly,  two  level  teaspoons  of  mustard,  two 
level  teaspoons  of  salt,  three  level  tablespoons  of  sugar 
(less  if  preferred),  one-fourth  teaspoon  of  cayenne  or 
paprika,  two  tablespoons  of  melted  butter,  and  one  cup  of 
rich  cream.  Break  four  eggs  into  a  large  bowl  and  beat 
them  until  very  light  and  thick,  add  the  mixture  and  pour 
all  into  the  hot  vinegar  in  the  double  boiler.  Cook  like 
boiled  custard,  stirring  constantly,  and  be  careful  that  it 
does  not  curdle. 

Sorrento  Sandwiches.  —  Boil  the  liver  from  a  pair  of 
chickens  until  very  tender,  rub  through  a  strainer,  and 
mix  it  with  an  equal  amount  of  olives  chopped  very  fine. 
Moisten  with  mayonnaise  dressing,  and  put  between  two 
buttered  rounds  of  bread. 

Salmon  and  Brown  Bread  Sandwiches. — Use  brown 
bread  which  has  been  steamed  in  half-pound  baking-powder 
cans.  Cut  in  thin  slices.  Flake  one  cupful  of  cold  boiled 


526  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

salmon  and  mix  it  to  a  paste  with  one  tablespoonful  may- 
onnaise dressing.  Add  more  salt  and  cayenne  if  desired. 
Spread  it  on  the  bread,  cover  with  a  layer  of  thin  slices 
of  cucumber,  then  another  round  of  bread,  press  lightly, 
and  arrange  them  in  an  overlapping  circle  around  a  few 
sprigs  of  parsley. 

Sweetbread  Sandwiches.  —  Break  up  one  coicl  boiled 
sweetbread,  remove  the  membranes  and  press  through 
a  potato-ricer.  Moisten  with  half  as  much  thick  whipped 
cream,  and  season  to  taste  with  salt,  cayenne,  and  lemon 
juice.  Spread  on  thin  slices  of  bread,  cover  with  the 
leaves  of  watercress  and  another  slice  of  buttered  bread, 
press,  and  cut  into  triangles. 

Lettuce  Sandwiches.  —  Select  nice  tender,  crisp  lettuce, 
wash  and  dry  well,  but  do  not  make  the  sandwiches  until 
just  before  serving. 

Butter  the  bread  and  cover  with  the  lettuce,  and  spread 
a  thin  layer  of  salad  dressing  on  the  other  slice,  and  press 
them  together  tightly.  Cut  in  halves,  or  cut  into  rounds 
before  filling.  Tear  the  lettuce  to  fit  the  slices.  When 
a  rich  mayonnaise  is  used,  it  is  not  necessary  to  spread 
with  butter,  although  many  recipes  call  for  it. 

x  Flower  Sandwiches.  —  Sweet  clover,  sweet  peas,  vio- 
N  lets,  roses,  cinnamon  pinks,  apple  blossoms,  nasturtiums, 
and  heliotrope  may  be  used,  some  for  fragrance  merely 
and  some  for  a  part  of  the  filling. 

Flavor  the  butter  by  cutting  the  desired  quantity  in 
small  pieces,  then  lay  it  in  thin  cheese-cloth  with  the 
flowers  all  around  it,  and  let  it  stand  several  hours  in  a 
close-covered  jar. 

Spread  the  bread  with  the  fragrant  butter,  and,  if  you 
like,  sprinkle  a  few  petals  over  the  butter,  then  roll  over 
and  press  firmly.  Put  them  back  with  the  flowers  and 
cover  tightly,  and  when  ready  to  serve  arrange  them  in  a 
dish  with  fresh  flowers, 


Sandwiches.  527 


Cucumber  Sandwiches.  —  Select  cucumbers  that  are 
small  and  thin,  that  there  may  be  no  large  seeds.  Peel 
and  slice  as  thinly  as  possible,  into  ice  water,  and  let 
them  stand  ten  minutes.  Drain  very  dry,  and  place  them 
between  thin  slices  of  bread  which  have  been  spread  with 
mayonnaise  dressing. 

German  Cucumber  Sandwiches.  —  Peel  the  large  cu- 
cumbers, cut  in  quarters  lengthwise,  and  cut  off  the  inside. 
Slice  very  thin,  and  let  them  stand  in  cold  salted  water 
until  they  are  soft.  Drain  and  press  between  towels  to 
remove  all  the  water.  Butter  thin  rounds  of  brown 
bread,  cover  with  a  layer  of  the  cucumber,  season  with  a 
thick  French  dressing,  and  cover  with  another  buttered 
round  of  bread. 

Cheese  and  Nut  Sandwiches.  — Take  equal  parts  of 
grated  cheese  and  English  walnuts  pounded  to  a  meal, 
or  ground ;  moisten  with  thick  sweet  cream,  and  season  to 
taste  with  salt.  Spread  between  thin  slices  of  buttered 
bread. 

No.  2. —  Chop  fine  or  run  through  an  almond  grater 
half  a  cup  of  pecans.  Melt  half  a  cup  of  Edam  cheese, 
and  blend  it  thoroughly  with  the  nuts.  Add  half  a  salt- 
spoon  of  paprika,  and  salt  to  taste.  Spread  the  paste 
on  thin  slices  of  bread,  and  cut  in  small  squares  or 
triangles. 

Cherry  Sandwiches.  —  Chop  candied  cherries  fine,  and 
moisten  slightly  with  orange  juice,  or  maraschino. 
Spread  them  on  rounds  of  thin,  lightly  buttered  bread, 
cover  with  another  round,  and  serve  on  a  dainty  napkin. 

Crab -Apple  Sandwiches.  —  Use  whole- wheat  bread,  cut 
in  one-third  inch  slices.  Spread  with  a  thin  coating  of 
thick  cream,  a  little  salt,  and  thin  slivers  of  crab-apple 
jelly.  Serve  these  with  lemonade, 


528  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 

Ginger  Sandwiches. — Bake  a  plain  gingerbread  in  a 
thin  sheet,  or  make  soft  cookies,  and  when  cold  cut  into 
oblong  pieces  and  split  carefully.  Spread  with  cream 
cheese,  and  put  a  thin  slice  of  preserved  ginger  in  the 
middle,  cover,  press  slightly,  and  arrange  on  a  napkin. 

Orange  Marmalade  Sandwiches.  —  Remove  the  crust 
from  the  end  of  a  brick  loaf  of  bread.  Spread  the  end 
with  creamed  butter,  and  then  cut  off  a  thin  even  slice  and 
repeat  until  you  have  sufficient. 

Spread  marmalade  over  the  buttered  side  of  one  slice, 
being  careful  not  to  put  it  near  the  crust,  lay  another 
buttered  slice  on  this,  press  them  together  with  a- broad 
knife,  and  trim  off  the  crust.  If  the  slices  are  large, 
divide  them  into  triangles,  or  squares,  or  three  long  nar- 
row pieces.  Or  you  may  roll  them  and  press  slightly. 
Arrange  them  neatly  in  a  fringed  napkin,  cover  and  serve 
as  soon  as  possible.  For  a  luncheon  course  you  may  use 
bread  one  day  old,  and  toast  it  slightly  before  filling,  and 
serve  hot. 

Fig  Sandwiches.  — Use  ripe  figs  that  come  in  cans,  or 
the  delicious  figs  in  cordial.  Drain  them  from  the  syrup, 
then  mash  them  to  a  paste,  and  spread  on  one  part  of 
the  sandwich  as  directed  for  orange  marmalade. 

Dates  and  Nuts.  — Remove  the  stones  and  scales  from 
the  dates  and  break  "them  up  with  a  fork.  Take  half  as 
much  in  bulk  of  pecans  chopped  fine  or  run  through  a 
nut-grater,  mix  them  with  the  dates  and  moisten  with 
creamed  butter.  Add  a  dash  of  salt,  and  spread  between 
two  thin  slices  of  bread. 

Mushroom  Sandwiches.  —  A  popular  sandwich  for 
afternoon  tea  consists  of  thin  slices  of  entire-wheat  bread, 
with  a  layer  of  cooked  mushrooms  between.  The  mush- 
rooms should  be  stewed  until  tender,  and  superfluous 
moisture  allowed  to  evaporate,  that  the  bread  may  not 
become  soggy. 


Cherry  Tarts.  529 


Deep  Apple  Pie.  —  Fill  a  deep  earthen  or  granite  dish 
with  apples,  pared,  quartered,  and  cored.  Sprinkle  over 
them  half  a  cup  of  brown  sugar  mixed  with  one  saltspoon- 
ful  of  allspice ;  or  you  may  use  maple  sugar,  or  half  sugar 
and  half  molasses.  Roll  a  strip  of  paste,  one  inch  wide, 
wet  the  edge  of  the  dish,  put  the  paste  on  the  edge,  wet 
the  rim  of  paste,  then  cover  with  a  piece  of  paste  a  little 
larger  than  the  dish,  with  the  extra  fulness  thrown  back 
into  the  centre.  Press  the  cover  to  the  rim,  but  not  on 
the  outer  edge.  Bake  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  apples 
are  soft^ 

Cherry  Tarts.  —  Into  one  cup  of  pastry  flour  mix  one 
scant  half  teaspoon  of  salt.  Add  one-fourth  cup  of  lard, 
and  chop  it  fine,  using  a  knife  instead  of  the  fingers  to 
avoid  softening  the  lard,  which  should  have  been  kept  on 
the  ice  till  quite  hard.  Mix  with  cold  water  to  a  stiff 
dough.  Toss  it  out  on  a  floured  board,  and  pound  it  flat 
half  an  inch  thick.  Put  on  butter  in  little  dabs  here  and 
there,  dredge  it  slightly  with  flour,  roll  up  and  pat  it  out 
again.  Do  this  four  times,  using  one-fourth  cup  in  all. 
After  the  last  patting  out,  put  it  on  ice  until  chilled. 
Use  small  tin  cups  or  corn-cake  tins  to  shape  the  tarts. 
Sprinkle  them  with  flour  on  the  outside,  shake  off  all  that 
does  not  adhere,  then  cover  the  outside  with  a  thin  layer 
of  the  paste.  Roll  the  paste  very  thin,  and  cut  with  a 
saucer  or  cutter  which  will  give  you  just  the  size  to  fit 
the  tin.  Put  the  cups  on  a  baking  sheet  and  bake  quickly. 
When  done,  remove  the  tin  by  turning  the  cup  over,  and 
fill  the  crust  with  the  prepared  cherries.  Wash,  stem,  and 
stone  the  cherries.  Allow  about  one  cup  of  sugar  to  one 
pint  of  cherries,  if  the  very  sour  variety,  possibly  more 
will  be  needed.  Put  the  sugar  and  one-half  cup  of  water 
on  the  fire,  and  when  boiling  add  the  fruit,  and  cook  ten 
minutes.  Stir  in  one  teaspoon  of  butter,  and  if  the  syrup 
seems  thin,  wet  one  teaspoon  of  cornstarch  in  cold  water, 
and  stir  in  sufficient  to  thicken  it  slightly. 

34 


53O  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

-^  A  Quick  Dessert.  —  When  an  emergency  arises  where  a 
dessert  must  be  prepared  qaickly,  open  a  can  of  peaches, 
apricots,  raspberries,  or  any  available  fruit.  Put  it  in  a 
rather  large  kettle  with  a  close-fitting  cover.  While  it  is 
heating,  mix  one  pint  of  prepared  flour  with  one  beaten 
egg  and  one  scant  cupful  of  milk.  Drop  this  like  dump- 
lings in  a  stew  over  the  fruit,  cover  closely,  and  steam 
from  ten  to  fifteen  minutes.  Unless  the  fruit  is  juicy, 
there  is  danger  that  it  will  burn  on  the  kettle  while  the 
dumplings  are  cooking.  Serve  the  dumplings  and  fruit 
together  with  sugar  and  cream,  or  with  a  hard  sauce. 

Noodles.  (A.  German  Dessert.)  —  Break  two  eggs  into 
a  bowl,  and  stir  in  as  much  flour  as  they  will  take  up  in 
making  a  very  stiff  dough.  Knead  well.  Roll  out  thin 
as  a  wafer,  and  roll  up  and  cut  off  in  thin  strips.  Let 
them  boil  in  sweetened  milk  ten  or  fifteen  minutes,  or 
until  done ;  then  skim  them  out.  Rub  two  tablespoons 
of  butter  to  a  cream ;  add  four  yolks  of  eggs  beaten  ; 
then  stir  in  the  noodles  and  enough  of  the  milk  to  make 
them  moist.  Add  the  whites  of  the  eggs,  beaten  stiff. 

Put  a  layer  of  noodles  in  a  baking  dish,  then  a  layer 
of  any  marmalade  or  jam,  then  another  layer  of  each  and 
another  of  noodles  on  top,  and  bake  about  twenty  min- 
utes, or  until  brown. 

A  friend  who  received  her  culinary  education  in  Aus- 
tria recommends  the  following  as  being  a  most  delicious 

Macaroon  Pudding.  —  Take  eight  zwieback,  remove  the 
crusts  and  put  them  in  melted  butter  to  soften  ;  then  let 
them  cool. 

Put  half  a  pound  of  macaroons,  using  part  butter  and 
part  suet,  into  a  bowl,  and  saturate  them  in  claret  wine 
thoroughly,  or  use  syrup  from  whole  peaclies  or  plums, 
if  you  don't  care  for  the  wine.  Remove  the  seeds  from 
quarter  of  a  pound  of  raisins,  and  cut  the  same  amount 
of  citron  in  small  thin  slices.  Mix  one  teaspoon  of  cin- 
namon with  one  teaspoon  of  powdered  sugar, 


Puddings.  531 


Butter  a  pudding  mould,  sprinkle  with  fine  cracker  or 
bread  crumbs,  and  line  it  with  the  softened  zwieback. 
Put  in  a  layer  of  macaroons,  then  a  layer  of  citron,  spices, 
and  raisins  ;  then  another  layer  of  macaroons  and  another 
of  zwieback.  Mix  half  a  cup  of  cream  with  four  to  six 
beaten  eggs,  and  pour  this  over  the  pudding.  Add  also 
the  wine  or  syrup  left  from  the  macaroons.  Steam  it  one 
hour,  and  serve  with  creamy  sauce. 


Creamy       1  pt.  milk. 
Sponge       1  heaped  cup  flour. 
Pudding.    %  cup  sugar. 


1  rounded  tbsp.  butter. 
3  eggs. 


Scald  half  of  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Mix  the 
sugar  and  flour,  add  the  cold  milk,  and  stir  into  the  boil- 
ing milk.  Cook  five  minutes,  stirring  until  it  thickens. 
Stir  the  butter  in  and  when  well  mixed  remove  from  the 
fire,  and  when  nearly  cold  stir  in  the  well-beaten  yolks  of 
the  eggs.  Beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs  until  stiff  and  dry, 
and  fold  them  in  lightly.  Turn  into  a  buttered  pudding 
dish,  place  the  dish  in  a  pan  of  hot  water,  and  bake  half 
an  hour  in  a  hot  oven.  Serve  immediately.  This  is  a 
delicious  pudding  and  convenient  to  make,  as  the  mate- 
rials are  such  as  one  would  usually  have  on  hand,  and  the 
first  part  of  the  process  may  be  done  in  the  early  part  of 
the  day,  leaving  nothing  to  be  done  at  dinner  time  except 
to  beat  the  whites  of  the  eggs.  Plan  to  put  it  into  the 
oven  just  half  an  hour  before  it  will  be  served,  as  it  is 
better  if  it  be  served  directly  from  the  oven  to  the  table. 
When  properly  baked,  it  will  not  fall,  and  if  any  be  left 
over  it  can  be  reheated  for  another  meal,  and  will  be 
good,  even  if  not  as  nice  as  at  first.  Creamy  sauce 
should  be  served  with  it. 

Cherry  Roly  Poly.  —  Into  one  pint  of  flour  mix  one- 
half  teaspoon  of  salt  and  three  level  teas/  oons  of  baking- 
powder-,  rub  in  one  tablespoon  of  butter  and  mix  with 
milk  into  a  stiff  dough.  Toss  out  on  a  floured  board,  and 
roll  or  pat  out  half  an  inch  thick  and  in  rectangular  shape  ; 


532  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

have  ready  some  cherries  stoned  and  well  drained  ;  lay 
them  on  the  surface,  pressing  them  slightly  into  the 
dough  ;  dredge  with  flour  and  roll  over  into  a  loose  roll ; 
pinch  the  ends  together  and  wrap  in  a  cloth ;  lay  it  on  a 
steamer  and  cook  about  one  hour ;  make  a  sauce  with  the 
juice  of  the  cherries  and  as  much  water,  add  sugar  to 
taste,  let  the  mixture  boil,  and  thicken  it  with  corn  starch  ; 
stir  in  one  heaped  tablespoon  of  butter  and  serve  at  once. 


Fig  1  cup  butter. 

Pudding.        2  cups  sugar. 
(Mrs.  Morris.)  3  eggs. 


3  cups  bread  crumbs. 


1  Ib.  figs,  cut  small. 
%  cup  milk. 
%  tsp.  nutmeg. 
1  tsp.  cinnamon. 


Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  eggs  beaten  slightly, 
then  the  bread  crumbs,  the  figs  cut  in  small  pieces,  the 
milk  and  spice.  Turn  into  a  buttered  mould  or  pail,  and 
steam  three  hours.  Serve  with  a  thin  sauce,  lemon,  or 
fruit-syrup  sauce. 


Eddington     2%  Qts'  boiling  milk. 
Pudding.         1  cup  cornmeal. 


1  cup  water. 
tsp.  salt. 


cnnamon. 


1  cup  molasses. 
3  sweet  apples. 


Pour  the  boiling  milk  on  the  cornmeal,  add  the  other 
ingredients  in  order,  and  the  apples  cut  into  eighths. 
Bake  in  a  covered  deep  pudding  dish  four  hours. 

Coburg  Pudding.  —  Heat  three  cups  of  milk  in  a  double 
boiler.  Cook  half  a  cup  of  well-washed  rice  in  one  cup 
of  boiling  water  five  minutes,  or  until  the  water  is  all 
absorbed.  Turn  it  into  the  hot  milk  and  cook  until  very 
tender.  Stir  in  one  teaspoonful  of  salt  and  one  teaspoon- 
ful  of  butter. 

Beat  one  egg  very  light,  add  two  tablespoonfuls  sugar, 
and  stir  this  into  the  hot  rice  just  as  you  take  it  from  the 
fire.  When  well  mixed,  and  the  egg  is  scalded,  turn  into 
a  dish  for  serving.  Mix  two  tablespoonfuls  of  sugar  and 
one  teaspoonful  of  cinnamon,  sprinkle  this  evenly  over 
the  top,  dot  with  one  heaping  teaspoonful  of  butter  in 


Puddings.  533 


little  bits.  Do  this  just  before  you  are  ready  for  dinner, 
u nd  by  the  time  the  pudding  should  be  served,  the  sugar, 
spicer  and  butter  will  have  formed  a  delicious  sauce  over 
the  surface  of  the  pudding. 

Sponge  Cake  Pudding.  —  Stale  sponge  cake,  enough 
to  fill  a  three-pint  dish,  when  the  cake  is  cut  in  slices ; 
between  each  layer  place  dates  that  have  been  cut  length- 
wise to  remove  the  stone,  turn  over  this  a  custard  made 
of  one  pint  milk,  yolks  of  two  eggs,  half  cup  sugar,  one 
spoonful  wine  or  flavoring. 

Bake  twenty  minutes  and  cover  with  the  whites  beaten 
with  one-half  cup  sugar  and  spread  over  the  top  and 
browned. 


Dorchester    1  cup  hot  milk. 

Club  %  cup  stale  sponge  cake 

Pudding.  crumbs. 

2  eggs,  yolks. 

3^  cup  sugar. 

%  lemon,  rind  and  juice. 


%  teasp.  salt. 

1  cup  grated  apple. 

%  cup  whipped  cream. 

2  eggs,  whites. 

2  tbsp.  pd.  sugar. 


lemon 


uce. 


Soak  the  cake  in  the  hot  milk  until  soft.  Beat  yolks, 
add  sugar,  salt,  grated  rind  and  juice  of  half  the  lemon, 
and  stir  this  into  the  milk.  Whip  the  cream.  Grate  the 
apple  quickly  into  the  mixture,  add  the  cream  and  turn 
into  a  buttered  pudding  dish,  and  bake  about  half  an  hour 
or  until  it  puffs  all  over.  When  slightly  cooled,  cover 
with  the  meringue  and  brown  in  the  oven. 

.! 

Apricot      }£  Ib.  dried  apricots.  I     %  Ib.  fine  white  hominy. 

Pudding.    }£  Ib.  sugar. 

Wash  the  apricots  in  cold  and  then  in  hot  water.  Put 
them  and  the  hominy  in  a  scant  quart  of  cold  water  and 
soak  all  day.  Next  day  cook  it  two  hours  in  a  double 
boiler,  then  add  sugar  and  cook  two  hours  longer,  stir- 
ring every  half  hour.  Turn  into  wetted  moulds  and  serve 
very  cold  with  cream. 


534  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Iced  Cherry  Pudding.  —  Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs 
slightly.  Whip  one  cup  thick  cream  and  mix  it  with  the 
yolks.  Add  half  a  wineglass  of  rum  and  the  whites  of 
the  eggs,  beaten  stiff.  Stir  in  two  tablespoons  of  pre- 
served cherries.  Turn  it  into  a  mould  which  has  been 
wet  in  cold  water,  and  pack  it  in  ice  and  salt  for  five 
hours. 


Prune       1  pt.  prune  juice. 
Cream.    %  cup  sugar. 

1  tbsp.  gran,  gelatine. 


%  cup  cold  water. 
%  cup  boiling  water. 
1  pt.  cream. 


Measure  the  gelatine  slightly  more  than  level,  or  use 
one-fourth  box  of  shredded,  soak  it  in  the  cold  water, 
then  dissolve  in  the  boiling  water  and  strain  it  into  the 
prune  syrup.  Add  more  or  less  sugar  as  the  prunes  re- 
quire, but  avoid  having  them  too  sweet.  Some  prunes 
are  improved  by  the  addition  of  lemon  juice.  Cool,  and 
when  it  begins  to  thicken,  beat  in  one  cup  of  prunes 
stoned  and  cut  small,  and  the  whipped  cream.  Turn  it 
into  a  plain  mould  or  line  the  mould  first  with  lady  fingers. 
Use  for  this  a  thin  cream  whipped  in  a  churn. 

Prune  Pudding.  —  Whip  the  whites  of  jive  eggs  to  a 
stiff  froth,  add  slowly  five  tablespoonfuls  powdered  sugar, 
beating  all  the  time.  Then  add  one  cup  of  cooked  prunes 
chopped,  and  beat  until  very  light.  Put  into  a  small 
pudding  dish  and  bake  about  ten  minutes ;  then  set  away 
to  cool.  Beat  the  yolks  of  five  eggs,  add  half  a  cup  of 
sugar,  and  beat  until  creamy.  Add  one  pint  of  hot 
milk  slowly,  and  cook  in  double  boiler  until  thick  like 
soft  custard.  Cool  and  serve  as  a  sauce  for  the  prune 
pudding. 

Mist  Pudding.  —  Steep  the  thin  shavings  of  rind  of  half 
a  lemon  in  one  pint  water.  Mix  one  cup  sugar,  one-half 
saltspoon  salt,  and  three  rounded  tablespoons  cornstarch, 
and  pour  on  them  two  cups  of  the  strained  boiling  lemon 
water.  Cook  in  double  boiler  ten  minutes,  stirring  con- 


Coffee  Jelly.  535 


stantly.  Add  the  juice  of  one  lemon,  and  then  stir  in 
quickly  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  three  eggs. 

Mix  well  and  turn  into  small  cups  or  moulds. 

Make  a  soft  custard  with  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  three 
tablespoons  sugar,  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  cook  in  double 
boiler  till  smooth.  Strain,  and  when  cool,  flavor  with 
vanilla.  When  ready  to  serve,  turn  out  the  puddings  on 
individual  dishes  with  the  sauce  around. 

Coffee  Jelly. —  Soak  half  box  gelatine  in  half  cup  cold 
water,  then  dissolve  it  in  one  cup  boiling  water,  add  one- 
third  cup  sugar  and  one  pint  clear  boiled  coffee.  When 
sugar  is  dissolved,  strain  through  fine  cloth,  pour  into  a 
ring  mould  which  has  been  wet  in  cold  water.  When 
ready  to  serve,  turn  out  and  pour  whipped  cream  into 
the  centre.  Sweeten  the  cream  before  whipping.  Oi 
you  may  serve  it  in  a  plain  mould  and  pass  thin  cream 
and  powdered  sugar  with  it. 

Coffee  Cream  with  Junket.  —  Warm  one  pint  of  milk 
to  blood  heat.  Dissolve  in  it  one  tablespoon  of  sugar  and 
a  saltspoon  of  salt.  Flavor  with  one  teaspoon  of  coffee 
extract  or  one  tablespoon  of  black  or  very  strong  coffee. 
Remove  from  the  fire  and  stir  in  quickly  one  junket  tablet, 
then  pour  into  a  dish  suitable  for  serving  and  place  it  on 
ice  until  ready  to  serve.  To  be  eaten  with  sugar  and 
cream. 

Fruit  Souffle  with  Junket.  —  Put  into  a  bowl  one  heap- 
ing cup  of  fresh,  whole  strawberries  or  raspberries,  those 
without  any  hard  cores  or  spots  are  to  be  preferred. 
Sprinkle  over  them  one  cup  of  powdered  sugar  and  add 
the  unbeaten  white  of  one  egg.  Beat  with  a  perforated 
wooden  spoon  or  a  silver  fork,  slowly  at  first  until  the  ber- 
ries are  broken  and  mixed  with  the  egg  and  sugar,  then 
rapidly  and  continuously  until  the  mass  is  stiff  enough  to 
hold  its  shape.  It  takes  about  half  an  hour,  so  do  not 
attempt  it  until  you  are  blessed  with  the  time  and 


536  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

strength.  When  it  is  stiff,  place  it  iii'the  ice  chest  until 
ready  to  serve.  Dissolve  one  tablespoon  of  sugar  and  one 
saltspoon  of  salt  in  one  pint  of  fresh  warm  milk.  Then 
stir  in  quickly  one  junket  tablet  and  turn  at  once  into  a 
deep  glass  dish.  When  firm  and  cold,  pile  the  fruit 
souffle  lightly  on  the  surface. 

Hot  Chocolate  Sauce,  with  Arrowroot.  For  Ice  Cream. 
—  Put  into  a  saucepan  one  cup  of  water,  one-half  cup  of 
sugar,  one-half  inch  bit  of  stick  cinnamon,  and  one  ounce 
or  square  of  chocolate  melted  over  hot  water  and  mixed 
with  one-half  cup  of  milk.  When  boiling,  thicken  with  one 
tablespoon  of  arrowroot  wet  in  one-fourth  cup  of  water. 
Stir  as  it  thickens,  and  cook  five  minutes.  Remove  the 
cinnamon,  add  one  teaspoon  of  vanilla,  a  little  salt,  and 
serve  it  hot.  Pour  a  small  portion  over  each  slice  of  ice 
cream. 

Plain  Chocolate  Sauce,  No.  2.  —  Melt  four  squares  of 
chocolate  over  the  teakettle,  add  four  tablespoons  of 
sugar,  and  stir  till  smooth.  Add  gradually  one  scant  cup 
of  hot  water,  and  boil  it  slowly  ten  minutes.  Then  add 
one-half  cup  of 


Hot  Chocolate  Sauce,  No.  3  with  Eggs.  —  Scald  one 
pint  of  milk.  Mix  one-half  cup  of  sugar,  one  slightly 
rounding  tablespoon  of  cornstarch,  and  a  dash  of  salt, 
and  stir  them  into  the  hot  milk.  Cook  in  a  double  boiler 
about  ten  minutes.  Melt  one  square  of  chocolate  over 
hot  water,  add  two  tablespoons  of  powdered  sugar  and 
two  tablespoons  of  hot  water,  stir  till  smooth,  then  com- 
bine it  with  the  milk.  Beat  the  yolks  of  two  eggs  with 
one-half  cup  of  powdered  sugar,  and  when  well  mixed,  stir 
them  into  the  cooked  mixture,  cook  one  minute,  add  onq* 
tablespoon  of  vanilla,  and  serve  hot.  This  should  'be 
smooth  and  about  as  thick  as  cream,  and  if  necessary 
add  more  hot  milk  and  strain  it  before  serving. 


Cakes.  537 


Chocolate  Sauce,  No.  4.  —  Mix  two  cups  of  granulated 

sugar  and  two  ounces  of  Ceylon  chocolate,  add  four 
tablespoons  of  cream,  one-half  cup  of  water,  and  boil  with- 
out stirring  till  it  forms  a  soft  ball  in  cold  water.  Pour 
it  hot  over  the  ice  cream,  and  it  will  candy  immediately. 

Grandmother's  Pound  Cake.  —  For  many  years  I  tried 
in  vain  to  make  a  pound  cake  that  would  have  the  soft, 
velvety  texture  which  I  remembered  in  that  eaten  at  the 
table  of  a  dear  friend  in  my  girlhood.  The  recipes  which 
I  tried  made  a  fairly  good  cake,  light  and  fine  flavor,  but 
the  texture  was  never  what  I  desired. 

Soon  after  my  Boston  Cook  Book  was  completed  a 
friend  gave  me  her  mother's  recipe  for  pound  cake,  and 
it  was  as  definite  as  most  of  the  old  style  formulas.  One 
and  one-half  teacups  butter,  two  blue  cups  sugar,  five  un- 
beaten eggs,  added  one  at  a  time,  and  five  handfuls  of 
unsifted  flour.  .  Fortunately,  my  friend  could  show  me 
by  actual  measurement  just  what  she  meant  by  handfuls 
of  flour,  and  how  she  packed  the  butter  in  the  teacup. 
The  recipe  then,  as  it  stands,  after  a  careful  weighing 
and  measurement  by  our  standard  half-pint  cup,  reads 
thus:  One  cup  butter  packed  solid,  one  and  two-thirds 
cups  granulated  sugar,  one-half  teaspoon  mace,  five  un- 
beaten eggs,  two  cups  sifted  pastry  flour.  Have  a  round 
pan,  greased  and  floured,  the  oven  ready  and  ingredients 
measured,  as  the  mixing  must  all  be  done  by  the  hand. 
Cream  the  butter,  add  sugar,  and  work  until  very  light, 
add  spice  and  one  egg  at  a  time,  and  stir  with  the  hand 
until  you  do  not  see  any  of  the  egg  yolk,  then  another  egg, 
and  so  on  until  all  are  used.  Then  mix  in  the  flour,  and 
turn  at  once  into  the  pan,  and  bake  slowly,  about  an  hour. 

The  grain  of  the  cake  should  be  fine  and  close,  with  not 
p,  suspicion  of  any  toughness  or  heaviness,  not  porous 
like  a  cake  made  light  with  gas  from  soda  and  cream  of 
t-nrtar  or  by  long  beating,  and  yet  soft,  light,  and  velvety. 
This  texture  is  obtained  by  the  thorough  blending  of  the 
butter  and  sugar,  and  not  over  beating  the  eggs. 


538  fhe  Boston   Cook  Book 


Boswell       3  cups  butter. 
Cake.             6  cups  sugar. 
(Mrs.  Gould.)  8  eggs. 
3  cups  milk. 
10  cups  flour. 
2  Ibs.  raisins. 

1  nutmeg. 
1  teasp.  mace. 
1  teasp.  soda. 
1    wine-glass     St. 
rum. 

Croix 

Pick  over  and  seed  the  raisins,  and  flour  them  with 
part  of  the  measure  of  flour. 

Mix  the  spice  with  one  cup  of  the  flour. 

Measure  the  butter  easy,  in  pieces  about  like  walnuts 
packed  in  lightly,  cream  it  with  the  sugar,  and  beat  into 
it  the  well-beaten  yolks  of  eggs. 

Reserve  one-fourth  cup  of  milk  to  wet  the  soda.  Warm 
the  remainder  of  milk  with  the  rum. 

Then  add  the  spiced  flour  to  the  butter  mixture,  then 
a  little  of  the  milk,  and  beaten  whites  of  eggs,  then  al- 
ternate flour,  milk,  and  egg  white,  until  all  are  used.  Stir 
in  the  fruit  before  the  last  portion  of  flour  is  added,  and, 
if  stiff  enough,  do  not  use  all  the  flour.*  Add  the  soda 
dissolved  in  the  milk  last. 

Bake  in  several  small  round  pans,  frost,  and  serve  in 
the  whole  loaf,  dividing  it  as  needed. 

White  Mountain  Cake.  —  The  distinguishing  feature  of 
this  cake  is  that  it  has  a  soft  frosting,  or  cream,  instead 
of  jelly,  between  the  layers.  This  cream  is  sometimes 
flavored  and  enriched  with  chopped  nuts,  or  fruits.  The 
cake  is  baked  in  pans  which  are  much  deeper  than  jelly 
cake  tins,  and  in  most  stores  they  are  known  as  White 
Mountain  cake  pans. 


White  %  cup  butter. 

Mountain    2  cups  sugar. 


1  cup  milk. 

3 %  cups  flour. 

3  tsps.  baking-powder. 


Cake,  2  eggs. 

No.  1. 

Mix  in  the  order  given  and  beat  thoroughly.  Bake  in 
White  Mountain  cake  tins,  which  are  about  one  inch 
deep.  Spread  each  cake  with  the  prepared  filling,  and 
make  two  or  three  layers,  as  you  prefer. 


Calces. 


539 


Pilling  for  "White  Mountain  Cake.  —  Put  half  a  cup  boil- 
ing water  and  one  cup  granulated  sugar  in  a  smooth 
saucepan  over  the  teakettle,  and  stir  until  sugar  melts. 
Place  it  over  the  fire,  and  boil  without  stirring.  Dip  a 
silver  fork  in  occasionally,  and  when  the  syrup  forms  a 
fine  thread  as  the  fork  is  withdrawn,  it  is  done.  Mean- 
while, have  the  whites  of  two  eggs  beaten  stiff,  and  slowly 
pour  the  syrup  onto  it,  beating  as  you  pour.  Beat  until 
thick  enough  to  spread  easily,  then  flavor  with  two  tea- 
spoons lemon  juice,  and  spread  it  over  the  cake.  Add 
half  a  cup  of  pineapple  chopped  and  drained,  or  any  fine 
French  candied  fruit,  or  raisins,  figs,  nuts,  in  any  com- 
bination you  please.  Mix  them  with  a  part  of  the  frost- 
ing for  the  middle  layers,  and  save  a  few  larger  pieces 
of  the  fruit  or  nuts  for  the  top,  pressing  them  into  the 
icing  before  it  hardens. 


White  1  cap  butter. 

Mountain  2  cups  fine  gran,  sugar. 

Cake,  5  egg  yolks. 

No.  2.  1  scant  cup  milk. 


2%  cups  pastry  flour. 
2>^  tbsp.  baking  powder. 
j^  tbsp.  mace. 
3  egg  whites. 


Reserve  two  whites  for  the  frosting.  Mix  baking- 
powder  and  spice  with  the  flour,  then  cream,  butter,  and 
sugar,  and  add  beaten  yolks ;  then  milk  and  flour  alter- 
nately, and  whites  last.  Beat  vigorously  at  th6  last,  and 
bake  in  three  round,  shallow  cake  pans.  Put  boiled 
frosting  between  the  layers,  and  caramel  frosting  on 
the  top. 


Snow-  }/2  cup  butter. 
Flake  \%  cup  sugar. 
Cake.  ^  cup  milk. 

5  eggs  (whites). 


\%  cups  flour. 
1  tsp.  baking-powder. 
%  tsp.  rosewater. 
1  grated  cocoanut. 


Bake  in  jelly-cake  tins.  Frost  each  cake,  and  sprinkle 
the  cocoanut  between  each  layer,  and  over  the  top  and 
sides. 


540  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 


Caramel     %  cup  butter. 

3  cups  pastry  flour. 

Cake.         2  cups  sugar. 

3  tsps.  baking-powder. 

4  eggs. 

1  saltsp.  mace. 

1  cup  milk. 

1  cup  walnuts  (chop'd). 

Cream  the  butter  with  one  cup  sugar.  Beat  yolks  of 
eggs  with  the  other  cup.  Combine  the  two,  and  add  milk 
and  flour  (mixed  with  baking-powder,  spice,  and  nuts), 
alternately.  Measure  baking-powder  level.  Bake  half 
of  it  in  a  long  cake  pan  and  the  remainder  in  two  round 
pans.  Frost  the  long  loaf  with  caramel  frosting  and 
decorate  with  halved  walnuts.  Put  caramel  frosting  on 
top  of  one  of  the  round  cakes,  lay  the  other  on  this,  press- 
ing it  slightly,  and  pour  the  remainder  of  the  frosting  over 
the  whole. 

Caramel      3  cups  of  C.  C.  sugar.         |      1  cup  cream. 
Frosting.  1  heaping  tbsp.  butter. 

Boil  them  in  a  granite  saucepan  without  stirring,  until 
when  dropped  in  cold  water  it  is  hard  enough  to  be  waxy. 
Stir  only  on  the  bottom,  to  keep  from  burning.  Then  set 
the  pan  in  cold  water,  as  it  hardens,  spread  it  on  the  cake 
while  it  is  still  soft  enough  to  spread.  It  will  settle  into 
a  smooth  surface  almost  instantly. 

Frosting.  —  One,  cup  powdered  sugar,  one  tablespoonful 
corn  starch,  slightly  rounding,  two  tablespoonfals  water  or 
mi-He,  flavor  as  desired.  Spread  with  a  wet  knife. 

This  is  simply  mixed  and  requires  no  cooking. 

Sponge  Cream  Cake.  (E.  E.  Squire.)  — This  recipe  is 
desirable  when  one  is  limited  for  time.  It  may  be  made, 
baked,  filled,  and  decorated  in  just  twenty-five  minutes. 

Two  eggs  and  three-fourths  of  a  cup  of  granulated  sugar 
beaten  together  very  light.  Add  five  tablespoonfuls  of 
boiling  water  (be  sure  the  water  is  boiling)  as  quickly  as 
possible,  beat  slightly,  then  add  onecupfiour  sifted  twice 
with  one  teaspoonfal  baking  powder  and  a  saltspoonful  of 
salt.  Flavor  slightly  with  lemon  or  vanilla  or  nutmey. 


Cakes.  541 

Beat  until  the  flour  is  absorbed,  no  longer.  Bake  in  two 
jelly-cake  pans  twelve  minutes  in  a  quick  oven.  The 
batter  is  so  thin  the  whole  process  of  mixing  can  be  done 
with  the  egg-beater. 

Whip  one  cup  of  cream  stiff,  sweeten  with  pulverized 
sugar,  adding  it  a  spoonful  at  a  time  while  you  are  beat- 
ing, until  you  have  it  sweet  enough.  Flavor  to  taste. 
Put  part  of  it  on  the  bottom  of  one  cake,  lay  the  other 
cake  on  with  the  top  up,  and  put  the  remainder  of  the 
cream  in  a  pastry  bag  containing  a  star  tube  in  the  end, 
and  decorate  the  surface  with  dots  of  the  cream. 


3  level  teaspoons  bak- 
ing-powder. 

)^  teaspoon  cream  of 
tartar. 

Whites  of  6  eggs. 


Marshmallow    3^  cup  butter. 
Cake.  %  cup  sugar. 

^  cup  milk. 

1  teaspoon  vanilla. 

%  cup  cornstarch. 

/^  cup  pastry  flour. 

Mix  the  starch,  flour,  baking  powder,  and  cream  of 
tartar.  Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  flavoring, 
then  a  little  of  the  flour  mixture,  then  milk  and  flour 
alternately,  and  lastly  the  stiffly  beaten  whites  of  the 
eggs.  If  preferred,  use  two  cups  of  flour  and  omit  the 
cornstarch.  Bake  in  two  shallow  pans,  and  when  done, 
frost  and  mark  in  squares  and  ornament  with  marsh- 
mallows  which  have  been  slightly  toasted,  or  kept  in  the 
oven  until  puffed.  Or  spread  the  cake  with  a 

Marshmallow  Frosting.  —  Cut  half  a  pound  of  marsh- 
mallows  in  small  pieces,  put  them  in  the  double  boiler 
with  four  tablespoons  of  hot  water  and  stir  till  melted  and 
smooth. 

Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  and  one-third  of  a  cup  of  hot 
water,  without  stirring,  till  the  syrup  threads  when  drop- 
ped from  the  spoon.  Have  the  white  of  one  large  egg 
beaten  stiff,  and  pour  the  syrup  gradually  into  the  egg 
while  beating,  then  add  the  melted  marshmallows  gradu- 
ally, flavor  with  one  teaspoon  of  vanilla  and  a  few  drops 
of  lemon  juice,  beat  until  cool  and  thick  enough  to  spread. 


542  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Put  it  on  back  of  cake,  and  if  you  like  a  thick  loaf,  lay 
one  on  top  of  the  other.  The  peculiar  flavor  which  is 
noticeable  in  many  marshmallow  cakes,  especially  those 
made  by  Germans,  is  obtained  from  the  extract  of  anise 
seed.  Add  it  in  small  portions  to  the  frosting  till  flavored 
to  your  liking  ;  a  half  teaspoonful  is  usually  sufficient. 

Marshmallow  Cake,  for  Dessert.  (Miss  Kate  E.  Whit- 
taker.)  —  Bake  angel  cake  in  a  square  pan,  and  when  quite 
two  days  old,  cut  in  slices  and  spread  a  marshmallow  fill- 
ing between,  a  la  layer  cake.  Ice  the  top  and  sides  with 
a  soft  icing  of  a  pale  violet  tint.  Serve  with  whipped 
cream  around  and  candied  violets  scattered  on  the  cake. 

Marshmallow  Filling.  —  Put  one  ounce  of  granulated 
gum  arabic  with  four  tablespoons  of  cold  water  and  soak 
it  one  hour.  Then  stir  it  over  boiling  water  until  melted. 
Strain  it  into  a  double  boiler,  add  half  a  cup  of  sugar  and 
cook  thirty  minutes.  Then  add  the  whites  of  three  eggs 
beaten  very  stiff  and  one  teaspoon  of  vanilla.  Beat  until 
the  mixture  is  stiff  and  white. 


Pistachio     %  cup  butter. 
Cream          2  cups  sugar,  scant. 


2%  cups  flour. 

2  tsps.  baking-powder. 

3^  tsp.  almond. 


Cake.  1  cup  milk. 

Whites  of  3  eggs. 

Cream  the  butter,  add  the  sugar,  milk,  eggs  beaten  till 
foamy,  almond  and  flour  mixed  with  the  baking-powder. 
Bake  in  shallow  pans,  and  fill  with  one  cup  rich  cream, 
half  cup  powdered  sugar,  half  cup  pistachio-nuts,  half 
cup  almonds.  Whip  the  cream  stiff  with  a  Dover  beater  ; 
add  the  sugar,  and  the  nuts  chopped  and  pounded  fine. 

Cheese  Cakes.  —  Line  little  patty  pans  with  pastry,  puff 
paste,  or  that  which  is  quite  rich.  Make  a  cake  after  the 
recipe  for  Park  Street  cake,  put  a  dessert  spoonful  of  the 
cake  batter  on  the  paste,  and  then  a  teaspoonful  of  any  kind 
of  jelly,  jam,  or  marmalade,  with  another  dessert  spoon- 
ful of  the  cake  batter  on  the  top.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven 


Catcei. 


543 


and  frost  when  done.  This  is  a  convenient  way  to  use 
up  any  remnants  of  paste,  cake  batter,  and  jelly,  when 
one  does  not  care  to  make  a  large  quantity  of  the  cakes. 


1  tsp.  baking-powder. 
%  cup  cornstarch. 
6  eggs,  whites. 


Fig        I  %  cups  sugar. 
Cake.     %  cup  butter. 

)^  cup  sweet  milk. 
I  3^  cups  flour. 

Bake  in  two  layers,  and  fill  with  fig  filling. 

Fig  I  lb  figs.  I      1  cup  water. 

Filling.     %  cup  sugar. 

Chop  the  figs,  add  the  sugar  and  water,  and  stew  until 
soft  and  smooth.  Spread  between  the  layers,  and  ice  the 
whole  cake  with  boiled  icing. 


1  scant  tsp.  soda. 

1  cup  rich  sour  cream. 

3  cups  flour. 


Sour-      3  eggs. 
Cream    2  cups  sugar. 
Cake.      %  tsP-  sak- 
1  tsp.  lemon. 

Beat  the  yolks  until  light  and  thick ;  add  the  sugar,  the 
whites  beaten  stiff,  the  salt  and  lemon.  Dissolve  the  soda 
in  the  cream,  add  the  flour,  and  bake  in  a  shallow  pan. 


2  cups  flour. 

%  teP-  soda. 

%  tsp.  salt. 

%  tbsp.  mixed  spice 


Half       \4.  cup  sugar, 
and         3lj  CUP  butter. 
Half       1  egg. 
Cake.     %  CUP  molasses. 
^*2  cup  sour  milk. 

Mix  soda,  salt,  and  spice  with  the  flour,  cream  the 
butter  and  sugar,  add  the  beaten  egg,  the  molasses,  and 
sour  milk,  and  then  stir  in  the  flour.  Bake  in  a  shallow 
pan  about  half  an  hour. 


Black- 
Cap 
Cake. 


1  cup  butter  creamed. 
1^  cups  sugar. 

2  tbsp.  molasses. 
2  eggs. 

%  cup  sour  milk. 


2j^  cups  flour. 

1  tsp.  soda. 

3^  tsp.  each  cinnamon  and 

cloves. 
1  cup    each     raisins     and 

walnuts. 

Mix  in  the  order  given,  and  bake  in  two  shallow  pans. 
Half  lard  and  half  butter  may  be  used  instead  of  all 
butter,  in  any  cake  with  molasses. 


544  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Sponge  1  cup  sour  milk.  1  egg. 

Gingerbread.     1  cup  dark    rich  mo-       1  tsp.  soda. 

lasses.  *    1  tbsp.  ginger. 

%  CUP  butter.  2  cups  bread  flour. 

%  cup  sugar. 

Warm  the  butter,  molasses,  and  ginger  together,  add 
the  milk,  flour,  and  egg  and  a  pinch  of  salt,  and  last  the 
soda  dissolved  in  one  tablespoon  of  warm  water.  Bake 
in  shallow  pans. 


Grandmother's    ^  cup  sugar. 
Hard  %  cup  butter. 

Gingerbread.        ^  CUP  molasses. 
%  cup  milk. 


%  tsp.  ginger. 

i^  tsp.  salt. 

1  even  tsp.  soda. 

Flour  for  stiff  dough. 


Mix  in  the  order  given,  dissolving  the  soda  in  the  milk 
and  mixing  the  salt  and  ginger  in  a  little  of  the  flour. 
Mix  quite  stiff,  then  knead  till  smooth  and  light ;  roll 
out  one-third  of  an  inch  thick  and  to  fit  long  shallow 
pans.  Mark  in  half  inch  strips  with  a  pastry  jagger,  and 
bake  about  fifteen  minutes. 

Anise-Seed  Wafers.  —  Rub  half  a  cup  of  butter  till 
creamy,  add  one  cup  of  fine  granulated  sugar,  and  when 
light  beat  in  the  yolks  of  three  small  egys,  one  at  a  time. 
Beat  the  whites  stiff,  and  add  them  with  two  cups  of  flour 
in  alternation.  Stir  in  one  teaspoon  of  anise  seed  and 
enough  moi'Q  flour  to  enable  you  to  roll  it  very  thin.  Cut 
into  rounds  and  bake  quickly.  Anise  seeds  are  used  by 
the  Germans  and  the  Chinese  as  a  flavoring  in  cake  and 
sweet  dishes.  They  are  the  fruit  of  seed  of  a  small  an- 
nual of  the  parsley  family.  A  cordial  or  liquor  is  also 
prepared  from  them.  They  have  an  aromatic,  agreeable 
odor  and  a  warm  sweetish  taste. 


Hermits.     1  }£  cups  sugar. 
%  cup  butter. 
2  eggs. 

2  cups  seedless  raisins 

3  tbsp.  milk. 


1  teasp.  soda. 

1   teasp.   each   of    spices, 

cinnamon,  nutmeg,  and 

clove. 
Flour  to  roll. 


Cream  the  butter  and  sugar,  add  the  eggs  well  beaten, 
then   the   milk.      Mix   the   soda  and    spices    (cinnamon. 


Sand   Cakes.  545 


nutmeg,  and  clove)  with  one  cup  of  flour ;  add  the  raisins, 
which  must  be  washed,  boiled  until  tender  in  water  tx? 
cover,  and  drained,  cut  in  halves  or  chopped,  and  floured. 
Then  add  flour  to  roll  about  a  quarter  of  an  inch  thick, 
cut  out  in  fancy  shapes  and  bake  quickly. 

Walnut  "Wafers.  —  Cream  one-fourth  of  a  cup  (two 
ounces)  of  butter  gradually,  add  half  a  cup  of  powdered 
sugar,  and  almost  drop  by  drop  four  tablespoonfuls  of 
milk.  Next  mix  in  a  scant  cupful  of  bread  flour,  a  few 
drops  of  any  flavoring  extract  preferred,  and  one-fourth  of 
a  cupful  of  chopped  ivalnuts.  Spread  on  the  bottom  of  an 
inverted  dripping  pan  as  thin  as  possible.  The  pan 
should  be  buttered  unless  it  is  very  smooth.  Because  it 
is  difficult  to  spread  unless  the  nut  meats  are  very  finely 
chopped,  many  prefer  to  sprinkle  them  over  the  top  of 
the  dough  after  it  is  spread  on  the  pan.  Almond  paste 
ma}'  be  creamed  in  with  the  butter. 

Mark  in  squares,  then  sprinkle  with  the  nuts,  and  bake 
in  a  moderate  oven.  In  five  minutes  they  should  be  ready 
to  roll,  and  this  must  be  done  at  the  oven  door  before 
they  have  a  chance  to  cool  a  particle.  With  a  wafer  iron 
the  process  is  slower,  but  the  shape  can  be  made  more 
uniform. 

Sand  Cakes.  —  Cream  one  scant  cup  of  butter  with  one  cup 
and  a  half  of  -light  brown  sugar.  Beat  two  eggs,  reserving 
part  of  one  white,  and  beat  them  into  the  butter.  Mix 
half  a  teaspoon  of  cinnamon,  two  level  teaspoons  ot  baking- 
powder,  with  three  and  a  half  cups  of  flour,  stir  this  into 
the  butter ;  add  another  half  cup  of  flour  if  needed  to  roll 
thin  as  a  wafer.  Use  fancy  cutters,  hearts,  diamonds, 
etc. ;  lay  the  cakes  in  a  greased  baking  pan.  Brush  the 
top  with  the  remaining  egg  white.  Split  blanched  almonds 
and  put  three  or  four  on  each  cake  in  corners  or  radiating 
from  the  centre.  Mix  one  fourth  of  a  teaspoon  cinnamon 
with  one-fourth  of  a  cup  coarse  granulated  sugar  and 
sprinkle  it  over  the  cakes.  Bake  in  a  quick  oven  six  or 
eight  minutes. 

35 


546  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 

Fancy  Ice  Creams.  —  Fancy  ice  creams  depend  largely 
for  their  right  to  this  name,  upon  the  moulding.  Any 
good  recipe  for  a  cream  ice  or  water  ice  may  be  used, 
but  it  is  not  advisable  to  attempt  much  in  this  line  unless 
you  have  two  freezers  and  a  variety  of  fancy  moulds. 
Plain  brick  moulds,  melon  moulds,  brown  bread  moulds, 
pails,  baking-powder  cans,  or  fruit  cans,  if  they  are  water 
tight,  may  all  be  utilized.  Individual  fancy  moulds  are 
quite  expensive,  but  if  one  can  afford  their  first  cost,  and 
is  likely  to  use  them  often,  it  is  cheaper  in  the  end  than  to 
depend  upon  the  confectioner. 

Cafe*  Parfait,  No.  1.  — Mix  half  a  cup  of  strong  clear 
coffee  with  one  pint  of  medium  cream.  Sweeten  to  taste  and 
stir  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved.  Place  the  bowl  of  cream 
in  a  pan  of  ice.  When  the  cream  is  chilled,  whip  it  with 
a  whip-churn  and  skim  off  the  froth  into  a  strainer  placed 
over  a  granite  pan,  which  should  be  in  another  pan  of  ice 
to  keep  the  whipped  portion  cold.  Pack  a  mould  in  ice 
and  salt,  and  when  the  whipped  cream  is  drained,  pack  it 
into  the  mould.  The  liquid  cream  which  drains  through 
may  be  whipped  again.  Be  careful  not  to  have  any  liquid 
cream  in  the  mould.  Cover  the  mould  and  let  it  stand  in 
the  ice  from  two  to  three  hours. 

Cafe"  Parfait,  No.  2.  —  Make  half  a  cup  clear  strong  coffee. 
Beat  the  yolks  of  three  eggs,  add  half  a  saltspoon  of  salt 
and  half  a  cup  of  sugar,  and  when  well  mixed  stir  it  into 
the*  coffee  and  cook  in  a  double  boiler  till  thick  and 
smooth,  stirring  constantly.  Strain,  and  when  cold  add 
one  quart  of  cream,  whipped.  Beat  until  well  blended,  and 
add  more  sugar  if  needed.  Turn  into  the  freezer  can, 
packed  in  ice  and  salt,  and  freeze  without  turning  the 
crank. 

Line  a  melon  mould  with  an  inch-thick  layer  of  vanilla 
or  plain  coffee  ice  cream,  then  fill  the  centre  with  the 
whipped  cream  as  in  No.  1,  and  cover  with  ice  cream. 
Pack  in  ice  and  salt,  and  let  it  stand  for  three  hours. 


Fruit  Mousse.  547 


Cafe*  Pralines.  —  Beat  yolks  of  four  eggs,  add/ow  table- 
spoonfuls  of  sugar  and  four  tablespoonfuls  of  black  coffee. 
Cook  in  double  boiler  until  thick  and  creamy,  stirring 
constantly.  Then  turn  it  out  and  beat  until  it  is  cold. 
Add  four  tablespoonfuls  of  praline  powder,  and  fold  in 
lightly  the  drained  whip  from  one  pint  of  cream.  Turn 
into  a  mould,  and  pack  in  ice  and  salt,  and  let  it  stand 
four  hours. 

Praline  powder  is  made  by  powdering  fine  peanut, 
almond,  or  any  nut  candy  which  has  been  boiled  in  sugar 
until  brown. 

Fruit  Mousse. — Sprinkle  strawberries  or  raspberries 
with  sugar,  and  let  them  stand  until  the  sugar  is  dis- 
solved and  the  juice  drawn  out.  Use  enough  berries  to 
make  a  pint  of  juice.  Mash  them  and  strain  through 
fine  cheese-cloth.  Or  prepare  a  pint  of  pineapple  or 
orange  juice,  and  sweeten  to  taste.  Soak  a  quarter  of  a 
box  of  Nelson's  gelatine  in  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  cold  water 
twenty  minutes.  Pack  the  mould  or  freezer  can,  minus  the 
beaters,  in  ice  and  salt.  Chill  a  pint  of  cream;  then  whip 
and  drain  it,  as  directed  in  Cafe  Parfait,  No.  1.  Dissolve 
the  soaked  gelatine  in  a  quarter  of  a  cup  of  boiling  water, 
and  strain  it  into  the  fruit  juice.  Set  the  pan  in  a  pan 
of  ice  and  stir  constantly,  and  as  it  begins  to  thicken  stir 
in  the  whipped  cream.  When  well  mixed,  pour  it  into 
the  mould.  Cover,  and  let  it  stand  three  hours  in  broken 
ice  and  salt,  that  it  may  become  icy  cold.  Whip  the 
cream  with  a  syllabub  churn,  skim  off  the  froth  and  put 
it  into  the  strainer.  If  any  liquid  part  drain  through  into 
the  pan,  put  it  back  into  the  bowl  and  whip  again.  When 
all  is  whipped,  put  it  into  the  mould  or  can.  Pack  it  in 
closely  enough  to  fill  all  the  spaces,  but  be  careful  not  to 
break  up  the  froth.  Cover  the  mould  and  let  it  stand 
three  or  four  hours.  When  a  fluted  or  fancy  mould  is 
used,  the  mousse  will  turn  out  better  if  the  mould  is  first 
lined  with  ice  cream  or  sherbet  frozen  just  stiff  enough  to 
pack  in  smoothly. 


548  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Frappe*.  —  Frappe  is  a  term  given  to  water  ices  which 
have  been  only  partly  frozen  ;  that  is,  to  the  consistency  of 
mush,  rather  than  hard  enough  to  mould.  It  is  really  an 
iced  drink,  therefore  the  name  should  not  be  given  to  a 
thick  custard  cream.  These  ices  are  served  in  glasses,  and 
usually  are  more  or  less  liquid  as  the  mixture  melts  very 
quickly.  They  may  be  made  of  any  fruit  juice  diluted 
with  water  and  sweetened,  or  with  a  mixture  of  juices,  or 
with  tea,  coffee,  or  clam  juice.  They  are  served  at  after- 
noon teas,  evening  entertainments,  or  before  the  game 
course  at  dinner. 

In  freezing  frappe  we  use  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt, 
and  freeze  quickly,  as  we  wish  to  have  a  granular  texture, 
and  we  turn  the  crank  only  until  the  mixture  is  partly 
frozen ;  or  it  may  be  left  in  the  can  without  stirring  and 
when  partly  frozen,  by  scraping  the  icy  portions  from  the 
side  of  the  can,  and  a  slight  mixing,  the  desired  consist- 
ency may  be  obtained. 

Caf£  Frappe*.  —  Make  a  quart  of  very  strong  black  cof- 
fee, and  mix  it  with  a  quart  of  cream,  and  sweeten  to 
taste.  Freeze  as  directed. 

Caf£  Frappe\  —  Make  a  quart  of  coffee  by  filtering  one 
quart  of  boiling  water  through  half  a  cup  of  fine  coffee. 
Freeze  as  directed,  and  serve  in  glasses  with  a  spoonful 
of  sweetened  whipped  cream  on  each  glass. 

Grape  Juice  Frappe'.  —  One  pint  of  grape  juice,  one 
pint  of  water,  one  and  one  half  cups  of  sugar.  Freeze  as 
directed. 

Strawberry  Frappe\  —  The  juice  from  one  quart  of 
strawberries  and  twice  the  amount  of  water,  one  table- 
spoonful  of  lemon  juice  and  sugar  to  make  it  very  sweet, 
about  half  a  cup  for  a  pint  of  liquid. 

Clam  Frappe*.  —  Two  quarts  of  clams  in  the  shell. 
Wash  and  scrub  the  clams,  rinse  thoroughly.  Put  half  a 


Sherbet.  549 


cup  of  water  in  a  kettle,  add  the  clams,  cover  tightly, 
and  cook  until  the  shells  open.  Skim  out  the  clams,  and 
pour  off  the  water;  remove  the  shells  and  tough  mem- 
brane. Put  the  clams  into  the  water,  and  let  them  stand 
ten  minutes.  Then  skim  them  out,  let  the  water  settle, 
Ihen  strain  through  fine  cheese-cloth,  and  freeze  as 
Directed. 


Ceylon     1  pt.  sugar  boiled  with 
Frappe*.     1  pt.  water,  add 

2  cups  orange  juice. 


1  can  grated  pineapple. 
3^  cup  lemon  juice. 
1  cup  Ceylon  tea. 


Pour  the  boiling  syrup  over  the  shaved  rind  of  half  an 
orange  and  half  a  lemon,  add  the  fruit  juice.  Pour  one 
cup  of  boiling  water  on  one  teaspoonful  of  choice  tea. 

When  cool,  strain,  mix,  and  freeze  as  directed. 

Cherry  Frapp&  — The  juice  from  one  quart  can  of  white 
cherries,  a  pint  bottle  of  Apollinaris,  and  sugar  to  taste. 
Strain  and  freeze  as  directed. 

Orange  Frappe'.  —  Boil  two  cups  of  sugar  and  two  cups 
of  water  twenty  minutes,  add  the  grated  rind  of  one 
orange,  and  pour  it  over  two  cups  of  blood  orange  juice 
add  the  juice  of  one  lemon;  strain,  cool,  and  freeze  as 
directed. 

Roman     1  cup  lemon  juice.  1     I  pint  champagne. 

Punch.    4  cups  water.  1  gill  maraschino. 

2  cups  sugar. 

Put  water,  lemon  juice,  and  sugar  together,  freeze  to 
a  mush;  then  add  champagne  and  maraschino  and  finish 
freezing.  Serve  in  frappe  glasses. 

Banana  Sherbet.  —  Put  three  cups  of  water  and  one  and 
one-half  cups  of  sugar  in  a  smooth  saucepan,  and  boil 
five  minutes.  Add  the  juice  of  one  lemon  and  two  oranges, 
and  a  little  of  the  grated  rind  of  each,  and  one  cup  of 
sifted  banana  pulp.  Scrape  off  all  the  stringy  fibres 


550  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

from  the  bananas  before  sifting.  Beat  the  syrup  and 
fruit  mixture  till  cold,  then  stir  in  three  cups  of  whipped 
cream,  measured  after  whipping,  or  the  whites  of  three 
ecjgs  beaten  stiff,  if  you  have  no  cream.  Add  half  a  cup  of 
sherry,  if  you  approve,  but  it  is  delicious  without  it,  as 
the  banana  has  a  distinctive  flavor.  Freeze  till  soft  like 
mush,  using  equal  parts  of  ice  and  salt.  Serve  in  frappe 
glasses. 


4  oz.  candied  ginger. 
1  qt.  sugar. 


Lemon        2  qts.  boiling  water. 
Ginger        8  lemons. 
Sherbet.     1  egg,  white. 

Spread  part  of  the  sugar  on  a  shallow  plate  or  board, 
and  after  wiping  the  lemons  with  a  clean,  damp  cloth, 
roll  them  in  the  sugar,  to  extract  the  oil.  Then  cut  in 
halves,  remove  the  seeds,  and  squeeze  out  the  juice. 
Boil  all  the  sugar,  ginger,  and  water  until  clear.  Remove 
the  scum  as  it  rises.  Add  the  lemon  juice  to  the  syrup, 
strain  it,  and  pour  it  gradually  into  the  beaten  egg. 
Then  freeze  as  usual. 

"White  Velvet  Sherbet.  —  The  juice  of  six  lemons  and 
the  thinly  shaved  peel  of  two  soaked  in  the  juice  half  an 
hour.  Then  strain  .the  juice,  and  add  enough  sugar  to 
make  a  thick  batter.  It  usually  requires  about  a  cupful 
to  each  lemon.  Add  three  pints  of  milk,  and  turn  at 
once  into  a  freezer  packed  with  three  parts  broken  ice  and 
one  part  rock  salt.  Turn  slowly  at  first,  and  when  it 
begins  to  thicken,  turn  rapidly  until  stiff.  Add  more 
ice  and  salt,  and  let  it  ripen  for  at  least  two  hours  before 
serving. 

Milk  Sherbet.  —  Pour  one  quart  of  milk  into  the  freezer 
can,  and  pack  it  in  the  freezer  with  salt  and  ice.  With 
the  juice  of  three  or  four  lemons  mix  a  generous  cupful  of 
sugar  or  enough  to  make  a  thick  batter.  A  more  pro- 
nounced lemon  flavor  is  gained  by  using  a  few  drops  of 
lemon  extract,  or  rubbing  the  rind  of  the  lemons  with 


Sultana  Roll.  551 


lumps  of  loaf  sugar  which  are  afterward  dissolved  in  the 
juice.  Mix  the  lemon  syrup  with  the  ice-cold  milk,  and 
freeze  as  usual.  When  the  milk  is  very  cold,  there  is 
little  danger  that  it  will  curdle. 

Ice  Cream  with  Fruit  Syrup.  —  Fill  punch  glasses 
half  full  with  vanilla  ice  cream.  Crush  strawberries 
and  sweeten  to  taste  with  sugar  dissolved  in  a  little 
water  boiled  and  cooled.  Pour  the  fruit  over  the  ice 
cream,  nearly  filling  the  glass. 

Banana  Ice  Cream.  —  Select  eight  large  nice  bananas, 
ripe,  but  free  from  all  blemish  on  the  skin.  Wipe  them, 
and  carefully  peel  off  the  flat  strip  of  skin.  Remove  the 
pulp,  scrape  out  the  fibrous  portion  from  the  skins,  and 
put  them  in  the  ice  chest  until  the  cream  is  ready.  Mash 
the  pulp  of  half  of  the  bananas,  mix  with  it  two  cups  of 
sugar  and  one  quart  of  cream  of  medium  thickness,  add 
one  saltspoon  of  salt,  and  two  of  lemon  juice.  Press  it 
through  a  fine  sieve  and  freeze.  Chop  fine  some  French 
candied  fruit,  cherries,  green  plums,  and  angelica  enough 
to  make  eight  rounded  tablespoon/ids.  When  the  cream 
is  nearly  frozen,  put  a  layer  of  it  in  the  banana  skins, 
sprinkle  a  tablespoonful  of  the  fruit  over  the  cream,  add 
enough  more  cream  to  fill  the  skins,  lay  back  the  strip, 
and  tie  them  with  narrow  green  ribbons.  Put  them  into 
a  clean  freezer,  and  let  them  stand  surrounded  with  ice 
and  salt,  for  an  hour  or  two  to  ripen.  Serve  them  on 
plates  lined  with  lace  paper. 

Sultana  Roll.  —  Wash  and  soak  one-fourth  of  a  cup 
of  Sultanas  in  brandy  or  wine  to  cover.  Mix  one  scant 
tablespoon  of  flour  and  a  speck  of  salt  with  one  cup  of 
sugar  ;  add  one  egg,  and  beat  well.  Pour  on  slowly  one 
pint  of  hot  milk.  Turn  into  the  double  boiler,  and  cook 
twenty  minutes.  Cool  and  stir  in  one  quart  of  cream,  a 
few  drops  of  almond  and  a  tablespoon  of  vanilla.  Color 
a  delicate  green  with  green  color  paste.  Freeze  it,  and 


552  The  Boston   Cook  Book. 

then  use  it  to  line  baking-powder  cans,  pound  size.  Scat- 
ter the  drained  Sultanas  through  the  cream,  fill  the  centre 
with  thick  cream,  sweetened,  flavored  with  vanilla  and 
whipped  stiff.  Cover,  and  let  the  cans  stand  in  ice  and 
salt  one  or  two  hours.  Turn  out,  cut  in  slices,  and  serve 
with 

Claret  Sauce.  —  Boil  one  cup  of  sugar  with  one-fourth 
of  a  cup  of  water;  when  slightly  thickened,  cool  and  add 
one-half  of  a  cup  of  claret. 


Frozen  1  quart  milk. 

Pudding.         1  hpd.  tbsp.  arrowroot. 
(E.  E.  Squire.)  2  cups  sugar. 

^2  level  tsp.  salt. 

3  cups  cream. 


4  eggs,  whites. 

1  tbsp.  vanilla. 

Yz  lb.  Freuch  fruit. 

2  oz.  pistachio  nuts. 
Color  and  flavor  to  taste. 


Scald  the  milk  in  a  double  boiler.  Mix  the  arrowroot, 
sugar,  and  salt  thoroughly,  turn  them  into  the  boiling  milk 
and  stir  constantly  until  it  thickens  and  is  smooth.  Cook 
for  twenty  minutes.  Or  if  you  prefer  you  may  wet  the 
arrowroot  with  a  little  cold  milk  and  stir  it,  into  the  boil- 
ing milk  and  then  add  the  sugar. 

Let  this  mixture  become  very  cold,  and  when  ready  to 
freeze  it,  whip  the  cream  to  a  light  froth,  beat  the  eggs 
until  light,  but  not  stiff,  and  stir  them  into  the  cold  mix- 
ture. Should  there  be  any  doubt  as  to  the  sweetness  of 
the  cream,  scald  and  cool  it,  before  whipping.  Add  the 
vanilla,  using  enough  to  give  a  strong  flavor.  If  you  like, 
you  may  color  it  a  delicate  tint  with  yellow,  pink,  or  green 
color  paste. 

Turn  it  into  the  freezer  and  when  partly  frozen  stir  in 
the  French  fruit  and  nuts.  The  fruit  should  be  cut  into 
small  bits.  Candied  cherries,  apricots,  and  green  plums 
make  an  agreeable  combination.  Blanch  the  nuts  in 
boiling  water  until  the  skins  loosen  easily,  remove  them, 
and  cut  into  thin  slices. 

Frozen  pudding  as  usually  served  at  first-class  hotels 
is  flavored  with  a  fine  quality  of  Santa  Cruz  or  Jamaica 


Green  Apple  Sauce.  553 

Rum,  about  two  tablespoonfuls  put  in  with  the  fruit. 
Those  who  approve  of  and  are  accustomed  to  this  flavor 
would  doubtless  consider  a  frozen  pudding  made  without 
it,  as  not  worthy  of  the  name,  but  when  made  after  this 
recipe  it  is  delicious  with  only  the  vanilla  flavoring,  and 
although  more  expensive  than  the  usual  formula,  it  is 
well  worth  an  occasional  trial. 

Strawberry  Ice  Cream.  —  Sprinkle  two  cups  of  sugar 
over  two  quarts  of  strawberries.  Mash  them,  and  let 
tliem  stand  half  an  hour,  or  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved ; 
and  meanwhile  prepare  the  ice,  and  pack  the  freezer. 
Turn  the  berries  into  a  large  square  of  cheese-cloth, 
placed  over  a  bowl,  and  squeeze  as  long  as  any  juice  or 
pulp  will  come.  Then  empty  the  pulp  and  seeds  left  in 
the  cloth  into  a  pan,  and  pour  on  gradually  about  a  pint 
of  milk;  mix  it  well  with  the  pulp,  until  the  pulp  is  sep- 
arated from  the  seeds.  Squeeze  again  until  perfectly 
dry.  There  should  be  nothing  left  in  the  cloth  save  a 
ball  of  seeds.  Add  to  the  juice  as  much  cream  as  you 
may  have,  from  one  cup  to  three  plnts^  and  sugar  to 
make  it  very  sweet.  Freeze  as  usual.  After  tasting 
this,  you  will  never  want  any  other  strawberry  ice 
cream. 

Stewed  Green  Apple  Sauce.  — The  first  green  apples 
that  are  found  in  the  market  usually  awaken  an  appetite 
for  apple  sauce  and  apple  pie.  The  former  is  seldom 
seen  in  perfection.  Try  this  method. 

With  a  sharp  silver  knife  cut  the  apples  in  quarters, 
remove  the  cores  and  skin  and  put  them,  as  fast  as  pared, 
into  a  bowl  of  cold  water.  When  all  are  ready,  skim  them 
out  into  a  porcelain-lined  or  agate  kettle  with  a  large 
surface,  so  there  will  not  be  much  depth  to  the  apples. 
Add  boiling  water,  just  to  show  among  the  pieces,  cover 
tightly  to  keep  in  the  steam,  and  let  them  cook  quickly. 
Shake  the  pan  occasionally,  and  as  soon  as  soft,  mash 
them  with  a  silver  fork,  sprinkle  over  sugar  to  taste, 


554  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

cover  again  and  cook  until  the  sugar  is  dissolved,  and 
serve  hot  or  cold.  It  should  be  free  from  lumps,  white 
or  about  the  shade  of  the  inside  of  a  lemon,  and  not  too 
sweet.  When  eaten  hot  for  breakfast,  sometimes  a  pat 
of  butter  is  an  improvement.  When  cooked  in  this  care- 
ful way,  it  will  be  far  more  appetizing  than  if  of  a  dingy- 
brown  color,  of  half  cooked,  and  there  will  be  no  occasion 
for  sifting  it. 

Bananas  with  Fruit  Sauce.  —  Pick  over  one  quart  of 
currants;  wash,  drain,  and  mash  them.  Sprinkle  over 
them  one  cup  of  sugar,  and  let  them  stand  until  the  sugar 
is  dissolved.  Stir  occasionally,  then  squeeze  through 
coarse  cheese-cloth,  or  press  through  a  strainer  fine 
enough  to  keep  back  the  seeds.  Peel  four  bananas,  re- 
move all  the  stringy  membranes,  cut  them  in  halves 
lengthwise  and  crosswise.  Arrange  them  in  a  shallow 
glass  dish,  and  pour  the  currant  juice  over  them.  Keep 
it  in  a  cold  place  until  ready  to  serve.  The  flavor  of  the 
currant  juice  improves  the  bananas,  and  the  color  gives 
a  pretty  effect.  Do  not  use  the  currants  without  sifting, 
for  the  seeds  will  be  quite  objectionable  in  the  sauce. 
Blackberry  juice  may  be  used  in  the  same  way.  A  cool, 
simple  dessert  like  this  is  more  acceptable  on  a  summer 
day  than  a  hot  starchy  pudding  served  with  meringue  or 
whipped  cream. 

Stewed  Prunes.  —  It  would  appear  that  so  simple  a 
thing  as  a  dish  of  stewed  prunes  might  always  be  accept- 
ably served,  but  they  are  usually  too  sweet  or  insuffici- 
ently cooked.  All  dried  fruits  —  that  is,  fruits  that  have 
been  deprived  of  their  natural  juices  by  quick  evapora- 
tion, or  sun  drying  —  need  to  have  this  juice  or  water 
replaced  by  a  long  soaking  in  cool  water  before  being 
subjected  to  heat.  This  softens  the  cellular  tissues  so 
that  they  can  absorb  the  water,  the  fruit  swells  out  to 
nearly  its  natural  condition ;  and  then  by  the  heat  ap- 
plied in  cooking,  the  softening  process  is  continued  until 
every  particle  of  the  skin  is,  or  should  be,  perfectly  soft. 


Preserved  Strawberries.  555 

Just  enough  water  to  cover  them,  so  that  all  may  be 
equally  softened,  is  all  that  is  necessary,  and  when  the 
prunes  are  sufficiently  cooked  this  should  boil  down  to  a 
thick  syrup.  Except  in  some  of  the  most  acid  varieties, 
no  sugar  is  needed.  In  fact,  many  prunes  are  so  rich  in 
sugar  that  a  little  lemon  juice  seems  to  be  an  improve- 
ment. It  is  understood,  of  course,  that  the  prunes  should 
be  well  washed  in  tepid  water  before  they  are  soaked. 

Preserved  Strawberries.  —  Select  the  choicest  berries 
and  lay  aside  not  necessarily  very  large  ones,  but  per- 
fect, firm,  and  of  even  size  they  must  be.  Press  the  re- 
mainder of  the  fruit  for  juice,  taking  only  what  drips 
easily.  These  berries  can  be  used  later  for  a  jam. 

To  a  pound  of  juice  allow  a  pound  of  sugar,  and  make 
as  one  does  any  jelly.  Boil  fully  twenty  minutes  until 
surely  jellied.  Meantime  weigh  the  fruit  selected  and  an 
equal  amount  of  sugar.  Add  these  then  to  the  jelly  and 
boil  carefully  a  few  minutes  more.  No  exact  time  can  be 
given.  It  would  not  keep  with  raw  strawberries  dropped 
in,  neither  must  they  be  allowed  to  shrivel  like  preserved 
ones.  Occasionally  try  it  on  a  saucer,  keeping  the  kettle 
at  a  simmer  only.  Do  not  do  much  at  a  time.  It  is  bet- 
ter to  repeat  the  operation.  When  it  grows  firm  in  the 
saucer,  put  in  a  cold  place,  remove  it  from  the  fire  (and 
seal,  as  usual,  when  cold),  dipping  it  with  care  into  glasses 
soon  after  taking  from  the  fire. 

It  will  not  be  a  jelly  that  moulds  like  gooseberry  or  like 
quince  and  sustains  its  weight.  It  is  apt  to  fall  in  lusci- 
ous masses,  catching  the  light  in  its  clear  red  depths  and 
showing  the  imprisoned  berries. 

A  very  little  apple  juice  prepared  as  for  jelly  —  and 
carefully  strained  —  added  at  the  beginning,  with  the 
same  allowance  of  sugar,  pound  for  pound  or  fractions 
thereof,  would  help  it  to  form  or  "set"  as  old  house- 
keepers say,  and  the  flavor  would  not  be  detected.  This 
is  frequently  done  for  making  pear,  cherry,  and  peach 
jellies,  for  the  same  reason  that  they  do  not  form  jelly 


556  The  Boston  Cook  Book 

well  alone.  A  flannel  jelly  bag  is  very  nice  for  a  second 
straining,  using  the  usual  linen  cheese-cloth  for  the  first 
pressing,  Cincinnati  Recipe. 

Pot-Pourri.  — Put  a  pint  of  alcohol  or  ivhite  preserving 
brandy  into  a  large  stone  jar  that  has  a  tightly  fitting- 
cover  ;  then,  as  the  summer  fruits  come  on,  put  them 
into  the  alcohol  with  an  equal  amount  of  sugar;  thus  a 
cup  of  sugar  and  a  cup  of  fruit.  Stir  every  day  with  a 
clean  wooden  spoon.  Use  strawberries,  pineapples,  rasp- 
berries, currants,  blackberries,  apricots,  cherries,  peaches, 
plums,  and  grapes.  Plums  and  peaches  should  be  peeled, 
stoned,  and  cut  fine.  Cherries  should  be  stoned,  and 
grapes  should  be  seeded.  The  alcohol  is  enough  for  the 
jarful  of  fruit,  and  will  cook  and  keep  the  fruit  perfectly. 
About  a  month  after  putting  in  the  last  fruit,  it  will  be 
ready  to  use. 

As  the  seeds  of  small  fruits  become  hard  by  the  brandy, 
it  is  better  to  mash  them  and  use  only  the  juice,  particu- 
larly with  currants,  blackberries,  and  raspberries. 

Rhubarb  Jelly. — September,  or  not  earlier  than  the 
middle  of  August,  is  the  best  time  to  make  rhubarb  jelly, 
as  it  is  almost  impossible  for  it  to  thicken  when  made  of 
the  spring  rhubarb. 

"Wash  the  rhubarb,  but  do  not  peel  it,  simply  cut  it  into 
small  pieces  and  never  mind  if  it  be  stringy.  To  every 
pound  of  rhubarb  add  half  a  cup  of  water  and  let  it  stew 
slowly  in  a  granite  or  porcelain  pan  until  it  is  all  in 
shreds.  Then  strain  through  a  fine  cloth.  Measure  the 
juice  and  allow  one  pound  of  sugar  to  one  pint  of  juice. 
Let  the  juice  simmer  ten  minutes,  or  until  it  begins  to 
thicken  on  the  edge,  then  add  the  sugar  and  let  it  simmer 
till  it  jellies  on  the  spoon  or  when  dropped  on  a  cool 
plate.  Remove  the  scum  carefully  when  done,  turn  into 
glasses  which  have  been  rolled  in  hot  water  and  are  still 
standing  in  it,  and  when  cold  and  firm,  pour  melted  par- 
affine  over  the  top.  Cover  with  paper  and  keep  in  a  cool, 
dark  closet. 


Preserved  Citron.  557 

Wild  Unripe  Grape  Sauce.  —  Wash  the  grapes  and  re- 
move the  steins.  Cut  through  the  middle  with  a  sharp  knife 
and  remove  the  seeds.  Then  weigh  the  fruit  and  allow 
an  equal  weight  of  sugar.  Put  the  cut  fruit  in  a  kettle 
with  cold  water  to  show  just  to  the  top  of  the  fruit.  Let 
it  boil,  remove  the  scum,  then  sprinkle  over  it  one  quarter 
of  the  sugar.  Boil  again  and  press  the  grapes  down,  but 
do  not  stir  to  break  them.  Then  add  another  quarter  of 
the  sugar,  and  when  it  has  boiled  five  or  eight  minutes, 
repeat  until  all  the  sugar  is  used.  Cook  slowly  until  the 
syrup  is  thick  or  will  jelly.  Turn  into  small  jars  or 
glasses  and  seal  with  paper.  When  cold,  the  grapes 
should  be  quite  distinct  in  the  clear  jelly. 

Grape  Jelly.  —  The  wild  grapes,  gathered  just  as  they 
begin  to  turn,  are  the  best  for  jelly.  Cultivated  grapes, 
if  fully  ripe,  are  quite  likely  to  disappoint  one,  if  used 
for  jelly ;  the  color  is  dark  and  unattractive,  and  the  com- 
pound is  often  a  syrup  rather  than  a  jelly,  but  they  make 
delicious  marmalade. 

Wash  the  grapes  and  free  them  from  the  stems.  Put 
them  in  the  kettle,  and  mash  them  until  all  broken.  Heat 
slowly,  and  cook  until  the  juice  is  well  drawn  out.  Then 
place  a  square  of  cheese-cloth  over  a  colander,  and  set 
the  colander  over  a  bowl.  Turn  in  the  grapes,  and  let  it 
drip  without  any  pressure.  Measure  the  juice,  and  allow 
an  equal  measure  of  sugar.  If  wild  grapes  are  used, 
allow  a  little  more  than  an  equal  portion  of  sugar.  Boil 
the  juice  fifteen  minutes.  Skim,  and  strain  again,  then 
add  the  sugar,  and  boil  until  the  surface  looks  wrinkled, 
and  the  liquid  jellies  on  the  edge.  Skim  well,  and  turn 
into  glasses. 

Preserved  Citron.  —  Cut  the  citron  melon  in  halves  each 
way,  then  cut  each  quarter  in  three -quarter-inch  slices 
from  the  stem  and  blossom  ends  to  the  middle.  In  this 
way  you  cut  across  the  seeds,  and  they  can  be  more  easily 
removed  than  if  the  melon  be  cut  in  the  same  direction 
that  the  seeds  lie. 


558  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Pick  out  all  the  seeds,  and  cut  the  slices  in  squares, 
stars,  triangles,  or  any  shape  preferred.  Put  the  harder 
outside  pieces  by  themselves.  Weigh  the  fruit  and  allow 
an  equal  weight  of  sugar  or  a  little  less  if  you  prefer. 
Cook  the  citron  in  clear  water  until  tender  and  transpar- 
ent, the  harder  pieces  first.  As  the  fruit  softens,  take  it 
out  into  another  kettle  or  deep  dish  and  sprinkle  each 
layer  with  sugar.  When  it  is  all  cooked,  let  it  stand  until 
the  sugar  is  nearly  dissolved  and  some  of  the  citron  juice 
is  drawn  out.  Then  put  it  over  the  fire  again,  and  let  it 
heat  slowly  until  the  fruit  is  heated  through.  Remove 
the  fruit  into  the  jars,  which  should  be  near  at  hand,  in 
a  pan  of  hot  water.  Boil  the  syrup  down  until  it  seems 
thick  and  rich,  then  pour  it  into  the  jars  and  seal  quickly. 
If  the  fruit  seems  dry  after  standing  in  the  sugar,  you 
may  add  a  little  water  when  it  is  put  on  to  boil.  If  you 
like,  you  may  use  the  thinly  shaved  rind  and  juice  of  one. 
lemon  to  each  jar  of  fruit.  Be  sure  that  the  lemon  is  not 
bitter.  One  tablespoonful  of  crystallized  ginger  cut  fine 
gives  a  flavor  preferred  by  many. 

Strawberry  Tomato  Preserve.  —  For  one  pound  of 
strawberry  tomatoes  allow  one-half  pound  of  sugar  and 
one  lemon. 

Remove  the  husks.  Make  a  syrup  with  the  sugar  and 
water  enough  to  dissolve  it,  bring  it  to  a  boil  and  remove 
the  scum.  Add  the  tomatoes  and  let  them  stew  until 
heated  through,  then  skim  them  out  and  boil  the  syrup 
clown  until  quite  thick.  Cook  the  sliced  lemon  in  boil- 
ing water  until  the  rind  is  tender,  then  add  it  to  the 
syrup. 

Tutti  Fnitti  for  Tarts.  —  Take  equal  parts  of  stoned 
cherries,  currants,  red  raspberries,  and  large  gooseberries. 
Mash  the  currants,  squeeze  out  the  juice,  and  use  that  to 
dissolve  the  sugar.  Allow  one  pound  of  sugar  to  each 
pound  of  fruit.  Mix  and  boil  until  thick  like  jam.  De- 
licious for  tarts 


Mangoes.  559 


Lemon  Butter.  —  The  juice  and  grated  rind  of  three 
lemons,  three  eggs  well  beaten,  one  pound  of  sugar,  one 
small  cup  of  water,  one  level  teaspoonful  of  butter.  Beat 
well  together  and  boil  five  minutes  or  until  thick.  Keep 
it  in  covered  jelly-glasses.  This  is  an  English  recipe. 

Mangoes.  —  These  are  made  from  small,  green  water  or 
muskmelons,  green  tomatoes,  peppers,  peaches,  large  cu- 
cumbers, or  any  fruit  from  which  the  seeds,  stone,  or 
inside  portion  can  be  removed,  the  cavity  filled  with  a 
highly-seasoned  mixture,  and  the  opening  closed  again  in 
such  a  way  as  to  give  the  appearance  of  whole  fruit.  In 
using  peppers  and  green  tomatoes,  cut  a  circular  piece 
from  the  stem  end,  remove  the  seeds,  and  put  the  pieces 
in  place  again,  or  beside  the  one  from  which  they  were 
taken.  If  melons  are  used,  cut  out  a  piece  one  inch  wide 
and  three  long,  then  scoop  out  the  seeds  and  soft  portion. 
When  the  fruit  is  prepared,  let  it  soak  over  night  in 
strongly-salted  water.  In  the  morning  drain,  and  be 
careful  to  have  the  cut  portions  kept  where  they  belong. 
Prepare  the  following  mixture  to  use  as  stuffing :  Chop 
enough  firm,  white  cabbage  to  fill  the  cavities,  it  is  im- 
possible to  give  the  exact  amount.  You  may  use  with  it, 
if  you  prefer,  one-fourth  part  of  chopped  celery,  or  green 
tomatoes,  or  cucumbers.  Sprinkle  well  with  salt  and  let 
it  stand  two  hours.  Allow  one  small  onion,  two  or  three 
nasturtium-seeds,  and  half  a  teaspoonful  of  whole  mus- 
tard-seed to  each  pint  of  chopped  vegetables.  Season  to 
taste  with  ground  cloves,  cinnamon,  allspice,  ginger,  pep- 
per, and  salt.  Mix  thoroughly,  and  then  fill  the  cavities ; 
press  it  in  well,  fit  in  the  pieces  that  were  removed,  and 
then  tie  them  firmly  with  fine  twine.  Put  the  mangoes  in 
a  preserving  kettle,  cover  with  cold  vinegar  and  let  them 
remain  over  night.  The  next  morning  heat  all  together 
and  simmer  gently  half  an  hour.  Take  them  out  care- 
fully and  put  in  a  stone  jar  and  cover  with  cold  vinegar. 
The  next  morning  pour  off  the  vinegar,  add  half  a  cup  of 
sugar  to  each  quart  of  vinegar,  bring  to  a  boil,  and  pour 


560  The  Boston  Cook  Book. 

it  over  the  mangoes.  Repeat  this  for  three  or  four  morn- 
ings, and  after  the  last  scalding,  cover  when  cool,  and 
put  away  in  a  dry  place.  The  latter  part  of  this  process 
applies  only  to  mangoes  made  from  melons  and  cucum- 
bers. Pepper  and  tomato  mangoes  are  simply  covered 
with  cold  vinegar  after  stuffing,  then  put  away,  and  in  a 
month  they  will  be  ready  for  the  table. 

Orange  Marmalade.  — One  dozen  of  large  navel  oranges. 
Cut  in  halves,  and  scoop  out  the  juice.  Boil  the  peels 
two  or  three  hours  in  plenty  of  water  until  you  can  run  a 
broom  corn  through  them.  Drain,  and  when  cool  enough 
to  handle,  scrape  out  all  the  white,  leaving  only  the  yellow 
outside.  Cut  into  straws.  Weigh  the  pulp  free  from 
membrane  and  add  an  equal  weight  of  sugar.  Boil  pulp, 
sugar,  and  straws  for  two  hours,  and  then  turn  into  glasses. 
It  makes  six  one-pint  jelly  tumblers. 


EXPLANATION   OF   TERMS   USED   IN 
COOKERY. 


Abatis.    Giblets. 

Agncau.    Lamb. 

Ala,  au,  aux.  With ;  as  h  nitres  aux 
champignons^  oysters  with  mush- 
rooms. Dressed  in  a  certain  style; 
as  Smelts  a  la  Tartar?,  with  Tartare 
sauce. 

A  VAurore.  A  white  sauce  colored  pink 
with  the  spawn  of  lobsten 

A  la  bonne  Femme.  Of  the  good  house- 
wife. 

A  VEstragon.    With  tarragon. 

A  la  Neige.    In  the  style  of  snow. 

A  la  Pouletle.  Meat  or  fish  warmed  in 
a  white  sauce  with  yolks  of  egga. 

A  la  Heine.    Of  the  queen. 

Allemande.  A  thick  white  sauce  made 
with  cream  and  the  yolks  of  eggs,  and 
seasoned  with  nutmeg  and  lemon  juice. 

Almond.  A  nut  grown  in  Southern  Eu- 
rope. It  consists  of  a  stone  fruit,  the 
fleshy  pericarp  of  which  dries  in  ripen- 
ing, and  forms  a  hard  tough  covering 
to  the  stone.  Bitter  almonds  are  ob- 
tained from  Morocco.  They  contain 
prussic  acid,  and  are  poisonous.  The 
sweet  almonds  include  the  Jordan  and 
Valencia  varieties.  The  Jordan  al- 
monds, -  imported  from  Malaga,  are 
long  and  narrow,  and  are  considered 
the  best. 

Angelica.  A  plant,  the  stems  of  which 
are  preserved  in  syrup,  and  used  for 
decorating  pastry,  etc. 

Anguilles.    Eels. 

Apricot.  A  stone  fruit  cultivated  in 
temperate  and  tropical  climates.  The 
skin  has  a  highly  perfumed  flavor. 

Asperges.    Asparagus. 

Afpic  Jelly.  A  transparent  jelly  made 
with  stock,  and  used  for  garnishing. 

Au  Beurre  roux.    With  browned  butter. 

Au  vert  Pie.     With  sweet  herbs. 

Aux  Cressons.    With  watercresges. 

Aux  Rognons.    With  kidneys. 

Avena.    Oats. 


Baba.  A  very  light  yeast  cake  soaked 
in  rum. 

Bain  Marie.  A  shallow  open  vessel 
filled  with  hot  water,  in  which  smaller 
dishes  containing  soups  and  sauces 
may  be  placed  and  kept  warm  without 
further  cooking  until  serving-time. 

Bannock.  Primitive  cake  without  yeast, 
cooked  on  a  griddle,  in  Scotland  made 
of  pease,  barley,  and  oatmeal,  in  Amer- 
ica of  cornmeal. 

Barbecue.  To  roast  any  annual  whole, 
usually  in  the  open  air. 

Barm.  The  scum  from  fermented  malt 
liquors,  used  as  yeast. 

Baron  o/  Beef.  The  two  sirloins  not 
cut  down  the  back.  Formerly  a 
favorite  dish  in  England. 

Baron  of  Lamb.  The  entire  loin,  not 
divided  at  the  backbone,  with  the 
upper  part  of  both  legs. 

Basil.  An  herb  having  a  perfume  like 
that  of  cloves,  used  as  seasoning. 

Bavaroise.    Bavarian. 

Bay  Leaves.  The  leaves  of  the  cherry- 
laurel  tree. 

Bearnaise.  A  rich  egg  sauce  flavored 
with  tarragon,  named  from  Beam, 
birthplace  of  Henry  IV.  of  France. 

Becasses.    Woodcock. 

Bechamel.  A  white  sauce  made  with 
stock  and  cream,  named  from  a  cele- 
brated cook. 

Beignet.    A  fritter. 

Beurre  noir.    Browned  butter. 

Bisque.    A  shell-fish  soup. 

Blanch.  To  parboil,  to  scald  vegetables, 
nuts,  etc.,  in  order  to  remove  their 
hulls  or  skins. 

Blanquette.  Any  white  meat  wanned 
in  a  white  sauce  thickened  with 
eggs. 

Bouchees.    Very  small  Patties. 

Baiuf.    Beef. 

Bouillabasse.  Several  kinds  of  fish 
boiled  quickly,  and  highly  seasoned 


36 


562 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


with  onion,  orange  peel,  saffron,  oil, 
etc. 

BouUle.    Broth  made  from  beef. 

Bouilli.  Beef  stewed,  generally  in  one 
large  piece,  and  served  with  a  sauce. 

Bouquet,  or  Fagot  of  Herbs.  A  sprig  of 
each  of  the  herbs  used  in  seasoning, 
rolled  up  in  a  spray  of  parsley  and 
tied  securely. 

Braising.  Stewing  in  a  covered  pan, 
with  heat  applied  both  below  and 
above. 

Brawm.    Head  cheese. 

Bretonne.    A  pure"e  of  red  onions. 

Brioche  Paste.     Cakes  made  with  yeast. 

Broche.    A  spit. 

Brochette.    A  skewer. 

Brunoise.    A  brown  soup  or  sauce. 

Bubble  and  Squeak.  A  dish  of  vegeta- 
ble hash  and  meat. 

Buttock.    A  round  of  beef. 


Cafe  au  Lait.    Coffee  with  hot  milk. 

Cafe  noir.    Black  coffee. 

Caille.    Quail. 

Calipash.  The  glutinous  meat  of  the 
upper  shell  of  the  turtle. 

Calipee.  The  glutinous  meat  of  the 
under  shell  of  the  turtle. 

Canard.    Duck. 

Canellons.  .  Puff  paste  baked  round  a 
form  of  cardboard,  shaped  like  a  cane. 

Cannelon  of  Meal.  Minced  and  highly 
seasoned  meat,  baked  in  the  form  of  a 
large  roll. 

Capers.  Unopened  buds  of  a  low  trail- 
ing shrub  grown  in  Southern  Europe. 
Pickled  and  used  in  sauces. 

Capon.  A  chicken  castrated  for  the 
purpose  of  improving  the  quality  of 
the  flesh. 

Caramel.  A  syrup  of  burnt  sugar, 
named  after  Count  Caramel,  who  dis- 
covered what  is  called  the  seventh 
degree  of  cooking  sugar. 

Cardoon.  A  vegetable  resembling  the 
artichoke. 

Casserole.  A  mould  formed  of  rice  or 
potato,  and  filled  with  a  re'chauffe^ 

Champignons.     Mushrooms. 

Charlotte.  A  preparation  of  cream  or 
fruit,  formed  in  a  mould,  lined  with 
cake  or  fruit. 

Chartreuse.  A  preparation  of  game, 
fillets,  etc.,  moulded  in  jelly  and  sur- 
rounded by  vegetables.  Invented  by 


the  monks  of  the  monastery  of  Char- 
treuse as  a  convenient  way  of  disguis- 
ing meat. 

Chervil.  The  leaf  of  a  European  plant 
used  as  a  salad. 

Chillies.    Red  peppers. 

Chine.  A  piece  of  the  backbone  of  an 
animal,  with  the  adjoining  parts  cut 
for  cooking.  Usually  applied  to  pork. 

Chives.  An  herb  allied  to  the  onion 
family. 

Chou-fleur.    Cauliflower. 

Chutney.  A  hot  acid  sauce  made  from 
apples,  tomatoes,  raisins,  cayenne,  gin- 
ger, garlic,  shalots,  salt,  sugar,  lemons, 
and  vinegar. 

Citric  Acid.  The  acid  of  the  citron 
family,  lemons,  oranges,  etc. 

Citron.  The  rind  of  a  fruit  of  the  lemon 
species  preserved  in  sugar. 

Cochineal.  Coloring  matter  made  from 
the  dried  bodies  of  insects  found  in 
Mexico,  where  they  feed  on  a  species 
of  the  cactus. 

Cock-a-leekie.  A  soup  used  in  Wales, 
made  from  fowls  and  leeks. 

To  Collar.  To  cure  meat  in  a  spiced 
brine. 

Collops.    Meat  cut  in  small  pieces. 

Compote.    Fruit  stewed  in  syrup. 

Confitures.    Preserves. 

Consomme.    Very  rich  stock. 

Coriander.  A  plant  cultivated  for  its 
tender  leaves,  which  are  used  in 
soups  and  salads  and  in  making  curry 
powder. 

Cornichons.     Pickles. 

Cotelettes.     Cutlets. 

Coulis.     A  rich  brown  gravy. 

Creme  Brulee.  Browned  sugar  or  cara- 
mel with  cream. 

Creole,  A  la.    With  tomatoes. 

Crevettes.     Shrimp. 

Crimp.  To  cause  to  contract,  or  ren- 
der more  crisp,  as  the  flesh  of  a  fish 
by  gashing  it,  while  living,  with  a 
knife. 

Croquettes.  A  preparation  of  mince  with 
a  bread-crumbed  coating,  and  cooked 
till  crisp. 

Croustade.  A  kind  of  patty  of  bread  or 
prepared  rice. 

Crouton.  A  sippet  of  fried  or  toasted 
bread. 

Crumpet.  Raised  muffins  baked  on  a 
griddle. 

Cuen  de  Bceuf.    Ox-tails. 


Terms   Used  in  Cookery. 


563 


Currants.  Dried  currants  are  small 
black  grapes,  named  from  Corinth 
where  they  are  grown. 

Curries.  Stews  of  meat  or  fish,  seasoned 
with  curry  powder  and  served  with 
rice. 

Curry  Powder.  A  mixture  of  turmeric, 
coriander  seed,  pepper,  ginger,  carda- 
moms, cumin  seed,  caraway,  and  cay- 
enne. 


De,  d\    Of ;  as,  filet  de  bcntf,  fillet  of 

beef. 

Desosser.    To  bone. 
Devilled.    Seasoned  hotly. 
Dinde.    Turkey. 


En  Coquille.    Served  in  shells. 

En  Papillate.    In  papers. 

Endive.      A   plant   of   the    Composite 

family,  used  as  a  salad. 
Entrees.    Small  made  dishes  served  with 

the  first  course  at  an  elaborate  dinner. 
Entremets.    Second-course   side  dishes, 

including  vegetables,  eggs,  and  sweets. 
Epigrammes.    Small  fillets  of  poultry, 

game,  and  lamb  prepared  as  an  entree. 
Espagnole.     A  rich  brown   sauce,  the 

foundation  of  most  brown  sauces. 
Epinards.     Spinach. 
Eperlans.    Smelts. 


Faisan.    Pheasant. 

Fanchonnettes  and  Florentines.  Small 
pastries  covered  with  a  meringue. 

Farcie.  A  kind  of  force-meat  or  stuff- 
ing. 

Fausse  Tortue.    Mock  Turtle. 

Fcuilletage.    Puff  paste. 

Fillets.  Long  thin  pieces  of  meat  or 
fish,  generally  rolled  and  tied. 

Financiere.  A  rich  brown  sauce,  with 
wine  and  mushroom  catchup. 

Finnan  Haddock.  Haddock  smoked  and 
dried,  named  from  Findhorn  in  Scot- 
land, where  they  are  obtained  in  per- 
fection. 

Flaus,  Darioles,  and  Mirlitons.  French 
cheese  cakes. 

Foie.    Liver. 

Fondant.  Melting.  Boiled  sugar,  basis 
of  French  candy. 

Fondue.    A  preparation  of  melted  cheese. 

Fowl  a  la  Marengo.  A  fowl  browned  in 
oil,  and  stewed  in  rich  stock,  seasoned 


with  wine.  Eaten  and  approved  by 
Napoleon  after  the  battle  of  Marengo. 

Praise.    Strawberry. 

Fricandeau.  A  thick  piece  of  meat 
larded  and  browned,  and  stewed  in 
stock,  or  baked  and  covered  with  glaze. 

Fricassee.  A  stew  in  which  the  meat  is 
first  fried  slightly. 

Fromage.    Cheese. 


Galantine.    Boned  meat  or  poultry. 

Gateau.    A  cake. 

Gaufres.    Waffles. 

Gelee.    Jelly. 

Genevese  Sauce.  A  white  sauce  made 
with  white  stock,  highly  seasoned  with 
herbs,  spices,  mushrooms,  lemon,  and 
wine,  and  served  with  salmon  or  trout. 

Glace.    Covered  with  icing. 

Glaze.  Stock  boiled  down  to  a  thin 
paste. 

Gnocchi.  A  light  savory  dough  boiled, 
served  with  Parmesan. 

Goulasch.  A  Hungarian  beef  stew, 
highly  seasoned. 

Gratins.  Served  in  a  rich  sauce  with 
browned  crumbs. 

Grilled.    Broiled. 

GroseUles.    Currants. 

Gumbo.  A  dish  of  food  made  of  young 
capsules  of  okra,  with  salt  and  pepper, 
stewed  and  served  with  melted  butter. 

Gumbo  Ffat  Powder.  Made  from  the 
tender  young  leaves  of  the  sassafras, 
picked  in  the  spring,  and  dried  care- 
fully in  the  shade  like  any  herb. 
Powdered  fine  and  bottled  tight. 
Used  in  New  Orleans. 


Haggis.     A  preparation  of    the  heart, 

tongue,  and  liver  of  sheep. 
Haricot.     A  small  bean  ;  a  bit.     A  stew 

in  which  the  meat  and  vegetables  are 

finely  divided. 

Hodge-podge.    A  Scotch  meat  stew. 
Homard.    Lobster. 
Hors-d><KUTres.    Relishes. 
Huiires.    Oysters. 


Jmnbon.     Ham. 

Jardiniere.    A    mixed    preparation    of 

vegetables  stewed  in  their  own  sauce  ; 

a  garnish  of  various  vegetables. 
Julienne.    A  clear  soup  with  shredded 

vegetables. 


564 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Kabobs.  A  dish  of  meat  with  India 
curry. 

Kirsch-kuchen.    German  cherry  cake. 

Kippered.    Dried  or  smoked. 

Kohl  Cannon.  Boiled  potatoes  and  cab- 
bage, minced  together,  and  seasoned 
with  butter,  pepper,  and  salt. 

Koumiss.    Milk  fermented  with  yeast. 

Kromeskies.  Minces  of  meat  or  fish 
dipped  in  fritter  batter,  and  fried  crisp. 


Laitue.    Lettuce. 

Lardoon.    The    piece  of   salt  pork    or 

bacon  used  in  larding. 
Lentils,    A  variety  of  the  bean  tribe  used 

in  soups,  etc. 
Liaison.     The    mixture    of   egg   yolks> 

cream,  etc.  used  for  thickening. 
Lit.      A  layer.    Articles  in  thin   slices 

placed  in   layers,  with  seasoning   or 

sauce  between. 

Macedoine.  A  mixture  of  fruit  moulded 
in  jelly ;  or  of  vegetables. 

Madeline.    A  kind  of  pound  cake. 

Maigre.  Dishes  for  fast  days,  made 
without  flesh. 

Maitre  d' Hotel.    Master  of  the  hotel. 

Malic  Acid.  The  acid  of  apples,  par- 
tially changed  to  sugar  as  apples  ripen 
and  into  a  bitter  principle  as  they 
decay. 

Mango.  A  kidney-shaped,  sub-tropical 
fruit  of  variable  quality,  used  green 
for  pickles,  and  ripe  for  dessert. 

Manna  Kroup.  A  flour  made  from 
wheat  and  rice,  sometimes  mixed  with 
saffron  and  yolk  of  egg. 

Maraschino.     A  kind  of  brandy. 

Marinade.  A  pickle  for  boiling  meat  or 
fish  in. 

Marinate.  To  pickle  or  to  sprinkle  with 
a  French  dressing. 

Marrons.     Chestnuts. 

Matelote.  A  rich  stew,  made  of  fish,  and 
flavored  with  wine. 

Mayonnaise.  Cold  sauce,  or  salad  dress- 
ing, of  raw  eggs  and  oil. 

Menu.    A  bill  of  fare. 

Meringue.  A  kind  of  icing  made  of 
white  of  egg  and  sugar  well  beaten. 

Mi-Careme.    Dishes  used  in  mid-Lent. 

Mignonnette  Pepper.  Peppercorns 
ground  coarsely. 

Mirepote.  A  rich  brown  broth  used  in 
braising  meat. 


Miroton.    Pieces  of  meat  cut  larger  than 

collops,  for  a  stew  or  ragout. 
Morel.    A  species  of  mushroom. 
Morue.    Codfish. 
Mouton.    Mutton. 


Nectarine.    A  variety  of  the  peach,  hav- 
ing a  smooth  skin. 

Nougat.  A  mixture  of  almonds  and  sugar 
Nouilles.     A  kind  of  vermicelli. 
Noyau.    A  cordial. 

(Eu.fs.    Eggs. 

Ognon.     Onions. 

Okra.    The  green  mucilaginous  pods  of 

an  annual  plant,  used  in  the  South  for 

soups  and  pickles. 
Oxalic  Acid.     The  acid  in    sorrel  and 

rhubarb. 


Panais.    Parsnips. 

Paner.    To  cover  with  bread  crumbs. 

Panure.  Any  entree  that  is  bread- 
crumbed. 

Pate  aux  Choux.  Cream-cake  paste,  so 
called  because  when  baked  it  resembles 
a  head  of  cabbage. 

Pate  de  Foie  gras.    A  pie  of  fat  livers. 

Perdreux.    Partridge. 

Persillade  of  Fish.    With  parsley. 

Petite  Panis.    Little  bread. 

Petits  Pois.    Pease. 

Pigeonnaux.    Squab. 

Pimento.    Allspice  or  Jamaica  pepper. 

Pistachio.  A  pale  greenish  nut  re- 
sembling the  almond. 

Poelee.  Stock  used  instead  of  water  for 
boiling  poultry,  sweetbreads,  etc. 

Poisson.    Fish. 

Pommes.    Apples. 

Pommes  de  Terre.    Potatoes. 

Pot-au-feu.    The  stock  pot. 

Potage.    A  soup. 

Pot-Pourri.  A  mixture  of  minced 
cooked  meat  and  vegetables.  A  mix- 
ture of  fruits  and  sugar. 

Poulet.    A  chicken. 

Praline.    Flavor  with  burnt  almond. 

Printanier  (a  la).  With  young  spring 
vegetables. 

Puree.    A  thick  soup  rubbed  through  a 


Quenelle.    A  delicate  force-meat  used  in 

entries. 


Terms    Used  in  Cookery. 


565 


Ragout.  A  highly  seasoned  stew  flavored 
with  wine. 

Ramakins.  A  preparation  of  cheese 
and  puff  paste  or  toast,  baked  or 
browned. 

Ratifias.  Almond  cakes.  A  kind  of 
liquor  flavored  with  nuts. 

Ravigote.  A  highly  flavored  green  herb 
sauce. 

Rechauffe.    Anything  warmed  over. 

Removes,  or  Releves,  The  roasts  or  prin- 
cipal dishes. 

Ris  de  Veau.    Sweetbread. 

Rissoles.  Small  shapes  of  puff  paste 
filled  with  some  mixture,  and  fried 
or  baked.  Or  balls  of  minced  meat, 
egged  and  crumbed,  and  fried  till 
crisp. 

Risotto.  An  Italian  dish  of  rice  and 
cheese. 

Rizotta.    Italian  rice  and  cheese. 

Rognons.     Kidneys. 

Roux.  Thickening  made  with  butter  and 
flour. 


Salmi.    A  stew  or  hash  of  game. 
Salpicon.    A  mince  of  poultry,  ham,  and 

other  meats  used  for  entries. 
Savoy  Cakes,  or  Naples  Biscuits.    Lady 

Fingers. 

Sauce  Piquante.    An  acid  sauce. 
Saute.    Fried  and  tossed  over  in  a  little 

fat. 

Scones.    Scotch  cakes  of  meal  or  flour. 
Semona,  or  Semolina.    Same  as  Manna 

Kroup. 

Shalot.    A  variety  of  onion. 
Soubise  Sauce.    A  pur6e  of  white  onions 

named  after  Prince  Soubise. 
Souffle.    A  very  light  pudding  or  omelet. 

The  name  means  "  puffed  up." 
Soy.    A  Japanese  sauce  prepared  from 

the  seeds  of  Dolichos  Soja.    It  has  an 

agreeeble    flavor    and  a  clear   brown 

color.    Used  to  color  soups  and  sauces. 
Stock.       The    essence    extracted    from 

meat. 
Sultanas.      White    or   yellow 

grapes,  grown  in  Corinth. 


Tamis.    A  sieve  or  fine  strainer  cloth. 

Tarragon.  An  herb,  the  leaves  of  which 
are  used  as  seasoning  and  in  flavoring 
vinegar. 

Tendrons  de  Veau.  The  gristles  from 
the  breast  of  veal  stewed  in  stock,  and 
served  as  an  entree. 

Timbale.  A  drum-like  shell  of  rice  or 
macaroni  filled  with  force-meat  or 
ragout. 

Toad  in  the  Hole.  A  dish  of  cold  meat 
baked  in  a  batter  of  milk,  eggs,  and 
flour. 

Tourte.  '  A  tart. 

Truffles.  A  species  of  fungi  growing  in 
clusters  some  inches  below  the  soil, 
and  having  an  agreeable  perfume, 
which  is  easily  scented  by  pigs,  who 
are  fond  of  them,  and  by  dogs  trained 
to  find  them.  They  are  found  abund- 
antly in  France,  but  are  not  subject  to 
cultivation.  Used  in  seasoning  and 
garniture. 

Truite.    Trout. 

Turbans.  Ornamental  drum-shaped 
cases  containing  entrees  made  of  force- 
meat and  fillets  of  game,  etc. 

Vanilla.  The  fruit  of  a  Mexican  plant. 
Pure  vanilla  beans  are  from  seven  to 
nine  inches  long,  soft,  oily,  flexible, 
can  easily  be  wound  over  the  finger, 
and  when  cut  have  a  frosted  appear- 
ance. The  seeds  are  so  fine  as  to  be 
hardly  discernible.  An  ounce  contains 
seven  or  eight  beans,  and  costs  $1.50. 

Veau.    Veal. 

Veloule.    A  smooth  white  sauce. 

Vin  (Au).    With  wine. 

Vinaigrette  Sauce.  With  acid  wine  or 
vinegar. 

Vol-au-vent.  A  crust  of  very  light  puff 
paste,  filled  with  oysters  or  chickens, 
warmed  in  a  cream  sauce,  or  filled  with 
fruit. 


Zest  of  lemon.    The  grated  or  shaved 

yellow  layer  of  oil  cells. 
Zwieback.    Bread  toasted  twice. 


ALPHABETICAL  INDEX. 


ABSORPTION,  475. 

Banana  Sherbet,  549. 

Beverages,  111,  463. 

Acetic  Fermentation,  45. 

Bananas,  392. 

Birds,  Broiled,  23. 

Acid,  Lactic,  463,  471. 

"        with  Fruit  Sauce, 

"      Roast,  263. 

"    Muriatic,  81. 

554. 

"      in  Potato  Cases,  26S. 

Air,  2. 

Bannock,  93. 

"      Mock  or  Veal,  275. 

Aitchbone,  214. 

Barley,  109. 

Biscuit  Glac6,  367. 

Albumen,  461,  210. 

"        Gruel,  412. 

Biscuit,  68. 

Alcohol,  75. 

"        Soup,  417. 

"       Baking  Powder,  83. 

Almonds,  393. 

"       a  la  Strassburg,  516. 

"        Beaten,  96. 

"    To  Blanch,  436. 

"       Water,  418. 

"       Cream,  84. 

Anchovy  Toast,  508. 

Bass,  161,  165. 

Maryland,  96. 

Anise-seed  Wafers,  544. 

Bavarian  Cream,  355,  356. 

"       Oatmeal,  88. 

Apple  Cake,  Dutch,  86. 

Bean  Porridge,  287. 

"       Raised,  68. 

"    Charlotte,  348. 

"   Soup,  148,  513. 

"       Rye,  84. 

"    Compote,  394. 

Beans,  Baked,  249,  516. 

"       To  Shape,  68. 

"    and    Cornmeal    Pud- 

"      Shelled,  298,  513. 

"       Soda,  83. 

ding,  288. 

"       String,  298,  512. 

"       Sour  Milk,  83. 

Johnny  Cake,  91. 

Bearnaise  Sauce,  1%. 

"       Twin,  83. 

Meringue,  333. 
Pie,  325,  529. 

Beating,  33. 
Bechamel  Sauce,  189. 

"       Wafer,  96. 
"       Whole-  Wheat,  84. 

Porcupine,  334. 

Beef,  214-220. 

Bisque  of  Lobster,  152. 

Pudding,  333. 

"     Braised,  224. 

Blanc-Mange,  341. 

Salad,  520. 

"      Broiled,  223,  426. 

Blanquette    of    Chicken, 

Sandwich,  331. 

4      Broth,  418. 

268. 

Sauce,  Baked,  394. 

'      Corned,  228,  436. 

Bluefish,  159,  162,  166. 

"        Stewed,     394, 

'     Dried,  510,  272. 

Boiled  Dinner,  229. 

553. 

'      Essence,  422-425. 

"      Dressing,  310,  525. 

Scalloped,  331. 

*     Fillet  of,  222. 

"             "   for  Cold  Slaw, 

Snow,  345. 

"     Flank,  227. 

311. 

Snowballs,  334. 

"     Frizzled,  272. 

Boiling,  8-10. 

Tapioca,  333. 

"     Jelly,  418. 

Boinbe  Glac6,  367. 

Apples,  Baked,  394. 

"     a  la  Mode,  224. 

Boning,  26. 

Compote  of,  394. 

"     Olives,  270. 

Bouillon,  131. 

To  Core,  435. 

"      Pot-Roast,  227. 

"         Clam,  496. 

Ripe,  ToSer.e,  391. 

"      Pulp,  425. 

Bow  Knots,  331. 

Apricot  Pudding,  335. 

•«      Rib,  221. 

Brain  Food,  415. 

Apricots,  Dried,  535. 

"      Roast,  220-222. 

"    Sauce,  242. 

"         Frozen,  367. 

"      Rolls,  270. 

Brains,  Calf's,  242,  279. 

"         a  la  Neige,  335. 

"     Roulette,  271. 

Braised  Beef,  224. 

Arrowroot,  411,  457. 

"      Rump,  221  . 

"       Fowl,  258. 

Artichokes,  303. 

"      a  la  Russegue,  497. 

"       Liver,  241. 

Ash  Cake,  427. 

"      Sandwiches,  424. 

"       Mutton,  236. 

Asparagus,  297,  523. 
Aspic  Jelly,  266. 

"      Sausages,  271. 
*«     Sirloin,  220. 

"       Pigeons,  262. 
"       Sweetbreads,  244. 

"     Smoked,  272. 

"       Veal,  240. 

"      Smothered,  227. 

Braising,  13,  224. 

BACON,  23,  246,  431,  502. 

"      Soup,  130,  131. 

Bread,  36-79. 

Baked  Beans,  249. 

"     Spiced,  228. 

"      Baking,  60. 

"        "      and  Corn,  516. 

"     Steak,  223,  426. 

"      Brown,  67,  68. 

Baking,  13. 

"      Stew,  225. 

"           "        Thin,  490. 

Baking  Powder,  82.  ' 

"     Tea,  422-425. 

"      Cake,  74. 

Banana  Ice-Cream,  551. 

Beet  Greens,  297. 

"      Chemical     Changes 

"        Salad,  315. 

Beets,  306.                            j 

in,47. 

568 


The  Boston   Cook  Book. 


Bread,  Crumbs,  75. 

'Cake,  Black  Cap,  543. 

CAKES,  BKEAKFAST  AND  TEA 

"      Entire  Wheat,  79. 
'      Fermented,  44. 

"      Boswell,  538. 
"      Bread,  74. 

44      Apple,  87. 
44          44        Dutch   86. 

'      Fried,  136. 
;      Graham,  GO. 
'      Importance  of,  3G. 
'      Kneading,  54. 

"      Buttercup,  381. 
4  '      Butter  Mixtures,  372. 
"     Caramel,  540. 
"     for  Children,  375. 

44           44        Johnny,  91. 
44      Buckwheat,  101,486. 
44      Cheese,  542. 
44      Cocoanut,  390. 

'      Loaves,  58. 

"     Cider,  379. 

44      Corn   91-93. 

"      Meaning  of,  36. 

4      Coffee,  382. 

44      Cream,  389. 

"      Milk,  G4,  65. 
"      Mixing,  52. 

4      Coloring  for,  381. 
4      Cornstarch,  380. 

44      Dutch  Apple,  8G. 
44      Flannel,  99. 

"      Potatoes  in,  53. 
"      Puddings,  332,  337. 

4      for  Cream  Pies,  374. 
'      Cream,  Sour,  543. 

44      Griddle,  99-102. 
'4      Hoe,  93. 

"      Rye,  67. 

'      Currant,  378. 

44      Hominy  92. 

"      Salt  Risings,  45. 
"      Sauce,  193. 
"      Sautecl,  76. 

4      Date,  378. 
'      Dream,  380. 
4      Feather,  376. 

44      Huckleberry,  87. 
44      a  la  Polonaise,  321. 
44      Sand   545. 

"     Shortening  in,  53. 
"      Squash,  66. 

4      Fig,  543. 
'     Fruit,  375,  383. 

"      Sally'Lmm,  88. 
44      Short,  84. 

"      Stale,  75. 

4      Gold,  379. 

44      Tea,  89. 

44      Steamed,  76. 

4      Grandmother's,  537. 

Calf's  Head,  241. 

"      Sugar  in,  53. 

4      Half  and  Half,  543. 

44          44      Minced,  242 

"      Temperature  for,  56. 
"      Thirded,  67. 
Time  for  Raising,  56. 
"      Unfermented,  48. 
"      Water,  63,  G5. 
"      Whole-  Wheat,  66. 

4      Harlequin,  381. 
*     Jelly,  376,  381. 
4         44     Roll,  376. 
4      Lady  Fingers,  374. 
4      Leopard,  378. 
'     Loaf,  74. 

44     Heart,  241. 
44     Liver,  Braised,  241. 
44         44      Ragout  of,  277. 
44         44      Terrapin,  209. 
Calves'  Foot  Broth  or  Jelly, 

"      Yeast,  49. 
Brewis,  77,  283. 
Broiled  Bacon,  23. 

'      Macdonald,  379. 
4      Marble,  380. 
4      Marshmallow,  541. 

Canapes,  283,  490. 
Candy,  390,  512. 
Candied  Fruit,  436. 

"       Birds,  23. 
"       Chicken,  260. 

4      Mother's,  378. 
4      Nut,  378. 

Canning  Fruit,  401,  406. 
44            44      Juices,  438. 

"       Chops,  23. 

4      One-Egg,  376. 

Capers,  289. 

"       Fish,  161. 
"       Oysters,  179. 

4      Orange,  377. 
4           44        Cream,  377. 

Caper  Sauce,  188. 
Capons  251 

"       Quail,  263. 
"       Squabs,  507. 

4      Park  Street,  376. 
4      Pistachio  Cream,  542. 

Caramel,  134. 
44        Cake,  540 

"       Sweetbreads,  243. 
"       Tripe,  231. 
"       Venison,  264,  426. 

4      Plum,  383. 
4      Pound,  383. 
4        44     Grandmother's, 

44        Custard,  343,  344. 
44        Frosting,  540. 
Caramels,  390. 

Broiling,  21,  426. 

537. 

Carbon,  3-5,  479. 

"         Pan,  23. 
Broth,  Beef,  418. 

1      Raised,  74. 
4      Ribbon,  382. 

Carrots,  305. 
44        Heidelberg  514. 

"      Calves'  Foot,  417. 

4      Savoy,  374. 

44        Sweet  514 

"      Chicken,  142,  418. 
44      Mutton,  141. 

4      Silver,  379. 
4      Snow,  380. 

Carving,  Beef,  220,  221. 
44        Fish   164. 

"      Scotch,  140. 
Brunswick  Stew,  264. 

44          44     flake,  539. 
44      Spice,  382. 

44        Poultry,  255. 

Buckwheat,  109. 
Cakes,101,486. 
Bunns,  74. 

44      Sponge,  373-375. 
"       Cream,  540. 
44       Drops,  374. 

Casserole  of  Fish,  170. 
44          44  Rice  and  Meat, 
274 

"       Hot  Cross,  74. 

44            4t       with    Fruit, 

«          u  yeai  074^ 

Butter,  Lemon,  559. 
Butter  Sauce,  Drawn,  187. 

375. 
44      Sunshine,  375. 

Cauliflower,  301. 
Caviare,  488. 

44      Tea,  89. 

Celery,  302,  312,  520. 

44      Walnut,  378. 

44       Sauce   189 

CABBAGE,  302. 

44     Watermelon,  380. 

Cellulose  460. 

"        German,  515. 
"          Salad,  311. 

44      Wedding,  383. 
44      White  Mountain,  378, 

CHAFING-DISH  COOKERY. 

Cafe"  Frappe",  548. 

538,  539. 

Beef,  Dried,  510. 

au  Lait,  116. 
Parfait,  3G5,  546. 

CAKE,  FILLINGS  FOB 

Clams  a  la  Newberg,  510 
Crab  Terrapin,  51  (i. 

Pralines,  547. 

Cocoanut,  377,  378. 

Eggs,  Creamed,  508. 

Cake,  369-383,  538^545. 

Cream,  375,  389,  540. 

44      Devilled,  508. 

Angel,  374. 

Lemon,  381. 

"      Scrambled,  507. 

Apple,  86. 

Marshmallow,  541. 

Lobster  Newberg,  508. 

Baking,  370. 

Orange,  377.                    • 

Mushrooms,  511. 

Berwick  Sponge,  375. 

Raisin,  378. 

Oysters,  509. 

Alphabetical  Index. 


569 


CHAFING-DISH  COOKBKT.        Chicken,  Stuffing!  or,  Roast, 
Roquefort  Rarebit,  511.                         258. 

Convalescence,  Dishes  for, 
425. 

Scallops,  Curry  of,  509. 
Scotch  Woodcock,  507. 
Sardines,  510. 

"        Terrapin,  269. 
Chocolate,  116-118. 
"           des  Arabes,  427. 

Cookery,  1,  2. 
Cookies,  385,  386,  389. 
Cooking,  Object  in,  452. 

Sausages,  511. 

"           Caramels,  390. 

"         Time  Tables  for, 

Tomato  Omelet,  507. 

"           German,  118. 

24. 

Welsh  Rarebit,  607. 

"           Reception,  483. 

Corn,  108-110. 

Chantilly  Basket,  360. 

"           Sauce.  Hot,  536 

"      and  Beans,  269. 

Charcoal,  5- 

Chops,  Lamb,  236,  501. 

"        "        Baked, 

Charlotte,  Apple,  348. 

"       Mutton,  236,  501. 

516. 

"        Banana,  355. 

"       in  Papers,  23,  236. 

Cora  Cake,  90,  101. 

"        Fruit,  348. 

44       Pork,  246,  501. 

"        "     Ash,  427. 

"        Orange,  348. 

"       Veal,  499. 

"        "    Gold  Medal,  485. 

"        Russe,  354.             Chow-chow,  404. 
«*        Strawberry,   355.  Chowder,  Clam,  156. 

"        "     Maryland,  92. 
"        "     Spider,  92. 

Chartreuse  of  Chicken,  269.         "         Corn,  157. 

"        "     Sponge,  91. 

"         "  Fish,  170. 

M         Fish,  155. 

"        "    Thin,  91. 

Cheats,  106. 

44         Lobster,  157. 

44    Chowder,  157. 

Cheese  Cakes,  542. 

Cinci,  106. 

"    Fritters,  299. 

"      Canapes,  490. 

Citron  Preserve,  557. 

"    HuUed,  286 

"      Cottage,  283. 

Clam  Bake,  180.« 

44    Meal,  108,  109. 

"      Dutch,  283. 

44    Bouillon,  4%. 

44       "  Griddlecakes,100. 

"      Head,  248. 

"    Chowder,  156. 

"        "  Gruel,  412. 

"      Sandwiches,  527. 

"    Cocktail,  488. 

"        "  Mush,  109,  415. 

"      Souffl^,  282. 

"    Croquettes,  280. 

"       "  Puffs,  93. 

*'      Sour-milk,  283. 

44    Frapp<5,  548. 

"        "  Slappers,  101. 

44      Straws,  322. 

44    Fritters,  107. 

"        "  Waffles,  99. 

Cherries,  Canned,  402. 

"     Soup,  154. 

"    Soup,  150. 

Cherry,  Frapp<§,  548. 

Clams,  a  la  Newberg,  570. 

"    Sweet,  299 

*•        Pudding,  534. 
"       Roly  Poly,  531. 

"     Pur^e  of,  158. 
"     Scalloped,  180. 

"        "        Fritters,  299. 
Cost  of  Fish,  174. 

"       Sandwiches,  527. 

"     Steamed,  179. 

"    "  Food,  35. 

"       Soup,  158.                  Claret  Dressing,  525. 

"    "  Meat,  213. 

"       Tarts,  529. 

"     Sauce,  552. 

Courbouillon,  158. 

Chestnut  Salad,  520. 

Coagulation,  461. 

Crab  Olio,  186. 

"         Sauce,  192. 

Coal  Fire,  3-8. 

'*    Salad,  184. 

"         Stuffing,  258. 

Cochineal  Coloring,  381. 

"    Terrapin,  510. 

Chestnuts,  Italian,  515. 

Cocktail,  Clam,  488. 

Crabs,  183. 

Chicken,  251. 

"       Oyster,  487. 

"       Boiled,  184. 

"        Blanquctte  of,  268. 

Cocoa,  117. 

"       Devilled,  184. 

"        To  Bone,  27. 

Cocoanut  Cakes,  390. 

"       Scalloped,  184. 

"        Boned,  265,  267. 

u        Cookies,  386. 

«*       Soft-Shell,  184. 

"        Broiled,  260. 

"        Cream,  377,  378. 

Cracker  Brewis,  283. 

"        Broth,  142,  418. 
44        Chartreuse,  209. 

Codfish,  159,  162,  165,  168. 
"       Balls,  171,  493. 

"       Gruel,  413. 
f  Crackers  a  la  Crgme,  283. 

4        Croquettes,  279. 

"       Hash,  172. 

44         Crisped,  136. 

4        C  roustades  of,  503. 

"       Salt,  173. 

**         and  Orange  Mar- 

*       Curry,  259. 

Coffee,  112. 

malade,  427. 

'        Custard,  426. 

'«       Black,  116. 

Cranberries,  395. 

Devilled,  260. 

«      Church  Sociable,  483 

Cream,  463. 

"        Forced  with  Oys- 

Common Pot,  115. 

44       Andermat,  360. 

ters,  286. 

'       Cream,  535. 

44       Bavarian,  356. 

"        Fricassee,  258. 

'       Crust,  419. 

44       Cakes,  389. 

"        Fried,  260. 

'       Egg,  115,  425. 

44       Canteloupe,  Mock, 

"        Hungarian,  503. 

"     Filtered,  116. 

357. 

"       in  Jelly,  267. 

"      Handy,  483 

44       Cocoanut    and   Or- 

u       JeUy,  418. 

"     Jelly,  535. 

ange,  377. 

"        Panada,  426. 

"     Rice,  419. 

44       Cocoanut  and  Rais- 

"       Pie,  268. 

"     Roasting,  113,  114. 

in,  378. 

"        Pilau,  268. 

"     Serving,  116. 

44       Coffee,  535. 

"        Pressed,  267. 

"     Steamed,  115. 

44       for    Cream   Cakes, 

"        Roast,  257. 

"     Vienna,  116. 

389. 

"        Salad,  314. 

Coke,  5. 

44       for  Cream  Pies,  375. 

"        Scalloped,  268. 

Combustion,  3-5,  451. 

44       Dressing,  524. 

44        Smothered,  288. 

Composition      of      Human 

44       Glace",  365. 

"        Stew,  258. 

Body,  453. 

44       Imperial,  352. 

**        Stuffing  for  Boned, 
266. 

Compote,  Apple,  394. 
Condiments,  464. 

**       Italian,  346. 
••      Norfolk,  357. 

570 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Cream,  Prune,  534. 
"       Sauce,  190. 

Custard,  Cocoanut,  343. 
"         Macaroon,  343. 

Egg  Nog,  424. 
"    Plant,  302. 

"          "   for  Croquettes 

"         Orange,  343. 

"       "       Fritters,  3(  3. 

278. 

"         Quaking,  346. 

"    Salad,  209,  314. 

"          "  for  Patties,  278 

"         Rice,  336. 

"    Sauce,  188. 

"       Spanish,  346. 

"         Souffl6,  337. 

"  '  SheUs,  435. 

"       Tapioca,  345. 

Cutting  and  Folding,  34. 

"    Timbales,  209. 

"       Velvet,  349. 

"    Toast,  76. 

"       Whipped,  352. 

"    Vermicelli,  206. 

"       Whips,  353. 

DABS,  93. 

Eggs,  197-209. 

"       of  Tartar,  81. 
Crgme  Diplomate,  358. 

Dandelion  Greens,  297.      * 
Date  Cake,  378. 

"     Baked,  203,  204. 
"      foiled,  199. 

"      Frgte,  282. 
Crescents,  71. 
Crisps,  95. 

"     Sandwich,  528. 
Daubing,  25. 
Dessert,  A  Quick,  530. 

"     en  Coquille,  204. 
"     a  la  Creme,  208,  508. 
"     Curried,  203. 

Croquettes,  277. 

Diet  for  the  Bilious,  432. 

"     Devilled,  209,  508. 

"           Calf's    Brains 

"      "    Children,  429. 

"     Dropped,  199. 

279. 

"      "the      Constipated 

'     Ham  and,  200. 

"           Chicken,  279. 

433. 

'     Hot,  209. 

"           Clam,  280. 
"           Fish,  280. 
"           Hominy,  282. 

"      "    "      Consumptive 
433. 
"       "     "    Corpulent,  432 

'     for  Invalids,  431. 
'     and  Minced  Meat,204. 
'     in  a  Nest,  209. 

"           Lobster,  280. 

"      "     "    Diabetic,  432. 

'     Poached,  199. 

"           Macaroni,  281. 
"           Oyster,  279. 

"      "     "    Dyspeptic,  432 
"      "     "    Invalid,       410 

'             "in  Tomato, 
200. 

"           Oyster     Plant 

422,  431. 

"     Scalloped,  207. 

280. 

Diets,  National,  468. 

"     Scotch,  207. 

"           Potato,  280. 
"           Rice,  281. 
"           Salsify,  280. 

Digester,  Soup,  122. 
Digestion,  471. 
Dining-Room,  439. 

"      Scrambled,  200,  507. 
"     Spanish,  200. 
"      Stuffed,  206. 

"           Sauce  for,  278. 

Dinner,  Boiled,  229. 

Entries,  265. 

Shaping,  278. 
"           Sweetbread, 

Dinner  Table,  440. 
Dish-  Washing,  442,  448. 

Espagnole  Sauce,  193. 
Etiquette,  441. 

279. 

Dodgers,  93. 

"           Turkish,  281. 

Dominoes,  379. 

"           Veal,  279. 
Croustades     of      Chicken, 

Dough,  52-60. 
Doughnuts,  104,  486,  74. 

FANCHONNETTES,  327. 
Farina,  413. 

503. 
Crotitons,  136. 
Crullers,  105. 
Crumbs,  Bread,  75. 

Drawn  Butter,  187,  189. 
Dressing,  Boiled,  310,  525. 
"         Claret,  525. 
"         Cream,  525. 

Fat,  To  Clarify,  18. 
'    for  Frying,  16. 
"    in  Soup,  123. 
rats,  459. 

Crusts,  Rice,  94. 
Cucumber  Sandwich,  527. 

"         French,  310,  524. 
"         Mayonnaise,  311. 

Fermentation,  44,  461. 
Fibrine,  210 

"          Sauce,  514. 
Cucumbers,  313,  519. 

"         Tartare,  312. 
)ried  Crumbs,  75. 

Fig  Cake.  543. 
"    Pudding,  532. 

"           Stewed,  514. 
Cumberland  Sauce,  192. 
Cupid's  Wells,  320. 

Drinks.    See  Beverages  and 
Water. 
)rippings,  19. 

"    Sandwich,  528. 
Fillet  of  Beef,  222. 
"      of  Fish,  161. 

Currant  Jelly,  396. 

Drop  Cakes,  Fried,  102. 

Fire,  3,  5. 

"     Sauce,  191. 

"      Hominy, 

Fish,  159-174. 

Currants,  392. 

94. 

"     Baked,  162-165. 

"        Dried   to  Clean, 

"          "        Huckleberry, 

"          "      in  Crusts,  174. 

435. 

87. 

"     Balls,  171,  493 

"       with  Bananas,  554. 

Duck,  Braised,  261. 

"     Boiled,  166,  167. 

Curry,  Chicken,  259. 

"      Mallard,  504. 

"     To  Bone,  161. 

Egg,  203. 

"      Mock,  234. 

"     Broiled,  161. 

"      Fish,  170. 
"      Lobster,  183. 

"      Roast,  261. 
"      Teal,  504. 

"      Casserole  of,  170. 
"     Chartreuse  of,  170. 

"       Mutton,  238. 
"       Sauce,  190. 

Dumplings,  Apple,  332. 
"          for  Stew,  227. 

"     Chowder,  155. 
"     To  Clean,  160. 

Cusk,  168,  162,  166. 
Custards,  341. 
Custard  Almond,  343. 

Dutch  Apple  Cake,  86. 

"      Cost  of,  174. 
"     au     Court    Bouillon, 
167. 

"       Baked,  344. 

ECLAIRS,  389. 

"     Creamed,  170. 

"        Boiled,  342. 

Kgg  Balls,  136. 

"     a  la  CrSme,  168. 

"        Candied  Fruit,  343. 

"    Baskets,  208. 

"     Crimped,  170. 

"        Caramel,  344. 
"        Chicken,  426. 

"    and  Kread  Crumbing, 
19. 

"      Croquettes,  280. 
"      Curried   170. 

"       Chocolate,  343. 

"   Gruel,  413, 

"     Fillets  of,  161. 

Alphabetical  Index. 


571 


Fish,  Fried,  165. 

Fricassee,  Rabbit,  505. 

Gingerbread,  Thin,  386. 

"     Hash,  172. 
"     Pan,  159,  166. 

"         Sweetbread,  500 
"         Veal,  240. 

Ginger  Cookies,  389. 
"      Drops,  388. 

"     Planked,  491. 

Fricasseeing,  12. 

"      Sandwich,  528. 

"     in  Potato  Border,  1G9. 

Fritter,  Batter,  106. 

"      Sherbet,  550. 

"     Potted,  171. 
"     Roes,  Fried,  173. 

Fritters,  Apple,  107. 
"        Clam,  107. 

"      Snaps,  388. 
Glaze,  135. 

"        "      Scalloped,  173. 

"        Italian,  77. 

Glucose,  458. 

"     Salad,  314. 

"        Oyster,  107. 

Gluten,  38,  97. 

"     Salt,  Creamed,  173. 

"        Parmesan,  107. 

"       Gems,  428. 

"        "      Dinner,  173. 

"        Swedish,  107. 

"       Mush,  415. 

"        "      ToPrepare,172. 
"        "      Scorched,  173. 

"        Vegetable,  107. 
Frizzled  Beef,  272. 

"       Wafers,  97. 
Glycerine,  459. 

"     Sauce  for,  190. 

Frog's  Legs,  185. 

Goose,  Roast,  261,  251. 

"     Sauces,  187-196. 

Frosting,  384. 

Graham  Bread,  66. 

"     Scalloped,  169. 

"       Boiled,  384. 

"        Flour,  39,  42. 

"     Shell,  175-186. 

«'       Caramel,  540. 

"        Wafers,  96. 

"     To  Skin,  160. 

"       Chocolate,  385. 

"        Waffles,  99. 

"     Souffl6,  172. 

"       Golden,  384. 

Grape  Jelly,  557. 

"     Spiced,  170. 
"     Stewed,  168. 

"       Marshmallow,  541. 
"       Orange,  385. 

"      Juice  Frappe,  548. 
"      Sauce,  557. 

"     Stuffing  for,  163. 

"       Ornamental,  384. 

Grapes,  392. 

"     Warmed-over,  169. 

"       Pink,  385.                j  Gravy,  221,  256. 

Flannel  Cakes,  99. 

"       Plain,  384.                Greens,  297. 

Flemish  Sauce,  192. 

Fruit,  391-406. 

Griddle-Cakes,  99-102. 

Floating  Island,  343. 

"      Baked,  393. 

"            "    Bread,  100. 

Flounder,  159,  165. 

"      Candied,  436. 

"            "To  Cook,  99. 

Flour,  39-42. 

"     Canned,  401. 

"            "    Corn     Meal, 

**      Prepared,  428. 

"          "        Juice  of,  438. 

100. 

"      Thickening,  135. 

"      Drinks,  419. 

"            "    Graham,  101. 

"      Wheat,  95. 

"      Frozen,  367. 

"            "    Huckleberry, 

Flower  Sandwiches,  526. 

"      Iced,  393. 

100. 

Flummery,  343. 

"      Jams,  400. 

"           "    Pease,  101. 

Folding,  Cutting  and,  34. 

"     Mousse,  547. 

"            "    Rice  or  Hom- 

Food, 449-482. 

"      Preserved,  398. 

iny,  100. 

"     Adaptation  of,  467. 

"      Punch,  118. 

"            "    Squash,  102. 

"     Albuminous,  461. 

"      Ripe,  391. 

Groats,  108. 

"     Carbonaceous,  466. 

"      Salad,  522. 

Grouse,  262. 

"      Classification  of,  454. 

"      Serving  of,  391. 

Gruel,  Arrowroot,  411. 

"      Liquid,  463. 

"     Souffle,  535. 

'       Barley,  412. 

"     Nitrogenous,  460. 

"      Stewed,  393. 

'      Cornstarch,  411. 

"      Nourishing,  470. 

Frying,  14, 

'       Cracker,  413 

"      Stimulating,  470. 

Fuel,  4. 

•      Egg,  413. 

"     Tables  of  Cost  of,  35, 

'      Farina.  413. 

174,  213. 

*      Flour,  411. 

"      Uses  of,  450. 

GALANTINB,  28. 

'      Indian  Meal,  412. 

Force-Meat  Balls,  137. 

Game,  251,  431,  504. 

'      Oatmeal,  412 

Forefather's  Dinner,  284. 

"      To  Choose,  251. 

*      Rice  Flour,  411. 

Fowl,  Braised,  254,  258, 

"      To  Clean  and  Truss, 

Gum,  460. 

"    Smothered,  503. 

252.                           Gum  Arabic  Water,  419. 

F  mis,  251-254. 

"      Salmis  of,  270.             Gumbo  Soup,  497. 

Frapp<5  Caf<5,  548 

Gateau  de  Princess  Louise,: 

'       Ceylon,  549. 

360. 

Cherry,  549. 

"      St.  Honors',  359.       'HADDOCK,  159,  162,  166,  168, 

Clam,  548. 

Gelatine,  123,  345,  462.              493.       ' 

Grape,  548. 

Gems,  Gluten,  428. 

Halibut,  159,  162,  165,  490. 

Orange,  549. 

"      Graham,  95. 

Chicken,  162. 

Strawberry,  548. 

"      Rye,  94. 

"         a  la  Conant,  490. 

Fr  ezing,  361. 

"      Wheat,  95. 

Ham  and  Eggs,  200. 

French  Dressing,  310,  524. 

Giblets,  254. 

Ham,  Boiled,  247. 

Pancakes,  102. 

Ginger,  465. 

"      Broiled,  247. 

Terms  in  C  ookery,  561  . 
Friar's  Omelet,  334. 
Fricadilloes,  271. 

Gingerbread,  386-389,  544. 
Hard,  387,  544. 
Hot  Water,388. 

"      Fried,  247. 
"      Sandwich,  273. 
"      To  Serve,  247. 

Fricassee,  Chicken,  258. 

Soft,  387. 

Hamburg  Steak,  224. 

"        Frog's  Legs,  185. 
"        Lamb,  237. 

Sour  milk,  388. 
Sponge,  544. 

Haricot,  12. 
Hash,  273. 

"        Oyster,  177. 

««         Sugar,  388. 

"      Lentil,  516. 

»•        Partridge,  506. 

"         Superior,  387. 

"      Vegetable,  230, 

572 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Hasty  Pudding,  110. 
»          Fried,  110. 

Ice-Cream,  Sultana      Roll,  Kitchen  Utensils,  443. 
551.                   (Kneading  Dough,  54. 

Head  Cheese,  248. 

"          Tutti      Frutti, 

Kryolith,  80. 

Heart,  Calf's,  241. 

365. 

Heat,  1. 

"          Vanilla,  364. 

Henriettee,  106. 

"          Walnut,  365. 

LABAN,  427. 

Herb  Tea,  420. 
Herbs,  Mixed,  32. 

Ices,  Water,  367. 
Ice,  To  Keep,  409. 

Lactic  Acid,  463,  471-475. 
"      Fermentation,  44. 

Hermits,  386,  544. 

Icing.     See  Frosting. 

Lactose,  458. 

Herring,  162. 

Indian  Corn,  108,  110. 

Lamb,  232. 

Hoe  Cake,  93. 

"          "      Recipes,     90- 

"    Boiled,  234. 

Hollandaise  Sauce,  194. 

101,150,157, 

"    Chops,  236. 

Hominy,  110. 

286,288,338, 

"    Fricassee,  237. 

"      Cakes,  92. 

412,415,427, 

"    Loin  of,  233. 

"      Croquettes,  282. 

494. 

"    Roasted,  233. 

"      Drop-Cakes,  94. 

Invalid,  Care  of  the,  407. 

"    Saddle  of,  233. 

"      Griddle-Cakes,  100. 

"        Cookery    for    the, 

Lamb's  Liver,   Ragout  of, 

Hors-d'oeuvre,  487. 

407. 

277. 

Horseradish  Sauce,  195. 

"       Diet  for  the,  410, 

"    Tongues,  238. 

Hot  Cross  Bunns,  74. 

422,  431. 

Lard,  To  Try  out,  249. 

Huckleberry  Cakes,  87,  100. 

Irish  Moss,  291. 

Larding,  25. 

Huitres  au  Lit,  178. 

"       "      Blanc-Mange, 

Lemon,  Baked,  420. 

Hulled  Corn,  286. 

341. 

"       Butter,  559. 

"          "      Soup,  494. 

"       "      Jelly,  416. 

"       Cups,  487. 

Hungarian  Chicken,  503. 

"       "      Lemonade,  420. 

"       Sauce    for     Fowl, 

Iron  Rust,  448. 

188. 

ICB-CREAM,  361-367,  543-553. 
"          Almond,  265. 
"           Baked     Apple, 
365. 
"          Banana,       364, 
551. 

Isinglass,  462. 

JAM,  Apple,  400. 
"     Blackberry,  400. 
"     Currant,  400. 
"     Grape,  400. 

"       Sauce  for  Pudding, 
328. 
"       Syrup,  98. 
Lemonade,  420,  118. 
"           Flaxseed,  420. 
"           Irish  Moss,  420. 
Lentil  Hash,  516. 

"          Bombe     Glac6, 
307. 
"          Brown     Bread, 
364. 
"          Caramel,  364. 
"          Chestnut,  366. 

"     Peach,  400. 
"     Pear,  400. 
"      Quince,  400. 
"      Raspberry,  400. 
Jellies,  Fruit,  395-397. 
"       Gelatine,   349,  350, 
416 

"      Soup,  495. 
Lettuce,  312,  525,  526. 
Life  and  Motion,  478. 
Liver,  231. 
"    Calf's,  Braised,  241. 
"    Potted,  277. 

"          Chocolate.  364. 
"          Cocoanut,'365. 
"          Coffee,  364. 
"          Condensed 

Jelly,  Apple,  397. 
"      Calves'  Feet,  417. 
"      Chicken,  418. 

**           C*r\ff£*£*      F^P; 

"    Ragout  of,  277. 
Lobster,  Bisque  of,  152. 
"         Chowder,  157. 
"         Creamed,  183. 

Milk,  365. 
"          Fancy,  546. 
"          To  Freeze,  361. 
"          Frozen       Pud- 
ding, 366. 

C'OUGGj  DoO. 

"      Crab-Apple,  397. 
"      Currant,  396. 
"      Grape,  397. 
"           "      Unripe   Wild, 
PHW 

"         Croquettes,  280. 
"         Curried,  183. 
"         Cutlets,  280. 
"         Devilled,  183. 
"         Newberg,  508. 

"          Fruit,  365,  551. 

Obi  . 

•        Plain,  182. 

"          Glace,  365. 
"               "       Biscuit, 
367. 
Lemon,  364. 
"          Macaroon,  365. 

"      and  Ice,  420. 
"      Irish  Moss,  416. 
"      Italian,  350. 
"      Lemon,  350. 
"      Orange,  350. 

i         /~v    •              orvr 

'         Salad,  315. 
'         Sauce,  188. 
'         Scalloped,  183. 
'         Soup,  152,  153. 
'         Stewed,  182. 

"          To  Mould,  362. 
"          Mousse,  546. 
"          Neapolitan.  363. 
"          Nesselrode,366. 

Quince,  397. 
'      Restorative,  416. 
'      Rhubarb,  556. 
'      Rice,  415. 

Lobsters,  181-183. 
"       To  Choose,  181. 
"        To  Open,  182. 

"          Parfait       Cafe, 

Tapioca,  416. 

546. 
"           Philadelphia, 

Q£O 

'      Wine,  349. 
Johnny  Cake,  91. 
Jumbles,  386. 

MACARONI,  308. 
"          with       Cheese, 
oAa 

Own 

"          Pineapple,  364. 
"          Pistachio,  365. 

Junket,  Coffee,  535. 
"       Fruit,  535. 

oUU. 
"          Croquettes,  281. 
"          with      Tomato, 

"          Plombiere,  366. 

309. 

"          Pralines,   Caf6, 

KEDGEREE,  170. 

Macaroon  Pudding,  530. 

546. 

Kerosene,  5. 

Macaroons,  390. 

'•'          Strawberry, 

Kidney*,  234. 

Macedoine  of  Fruits,  350. 

364,  553. 

Kisses,  389. 

Mackerel,  159,  105,  172. 

Alphabetical  Index. 


573 


Madelines,  379.                      'Mushes,  109,  415. 

Omelets,  Ham,  201. 

Malt  re  d'Hfitel  Butter,  195,  Mushroom  Sandwich,  528. 
1%.                                       Mushroom  Sauce,  191. 

Jelly,  202. 
"        Mushioom,  201. 

Mandioc,  457. 

Mushrooms,  291,  303,  511, 

"        Onion,  201. 

Mangoes,  569. 

517. 

"        Orange,  202. 

Marmalade,  397,  5GO. 

Mustard,  465. 

"        Oyster,  '201. 

Marrow,  123. 

"         Sauce,  188. 

"        Parsley,  uOl. 

Marshmallow  Cake,  541. 

Mutton,  232. 

"        Rolled,  202. 

"            Filling,  542. 

"        Boiled,  234, 

"        Shrimp,  201. 

"            Frosting,  541. 

"        Boned,  26. 

"        Souffle,  203. 

Maryland  Biscuit,  %. 

"        Braised,  236. 

Sweet,  202. 

"         Corn  Cakes,  92. 

"        Broth,  141. 

"        Tomato,  201,  507. 

Mayonnaise  Dressing,  311. 
"    Tartare      "         312. 

"        Broth  for  Invalids, 
416. 

"        Veal,  201. 
Onion  Sauce,  193. 

Measures,     Weights     and, 
30. 

Chops,  236. 
"        Curry  of,  238. 

"      Soup,  496. 
Onions,  301,  431. 

Measuring,  28. 

"        Cutlets,  Breaded, 

Baked,  301. 

Meat,  210-213. 

236. 

'        Boiled,  301. 

"    Balls,  271. 

"        Duck,  235. 

'        Browned,  127. 

"    Casserole  of  ,  274. 

"        Forequarter,  234. 

Creamed,  SOL 

"    Corned,  436. 

"        Fricassee,  237. 

«       Fried,  224. 

"    Cost  of,  213. 

"        Ragout  of,  238. 

'       Scalloped,  301. 

"    Extract,  211. 

««        Roasted,  233. 

Orange  Baskets,  351. 

"    in  Jelly,  266. 

"        Saddle  or  Loin  of, 

"      Cake,  377. 

"    Juice,  211. 

233. 

"      Charlotte,  348. 

"     Pie,  m. 

"        Scalloped,  274. 

"       Fritters,  107. 

"    Pompine,  272. 

"        Shoulder  of,  500. 

"      Frappe,  549. 

"    Ragout,  273. 

"        Stew     for      Two, 

"       Jelly,  350. 

"    Rolls,  271. 

237. 

"       Marmalade,       427, 

"    Sauces,  187. 

528,  560. 

"    Souffl<§,  276. 

"       Omelet,  202. 

Melons,  392. 

NARKOW  DOCK,  297. 

"       Sections,  362. 

Meringues,  389,  435. 

Natrona,  80. 

Oranges,  392. 

Milk,  463. 

Newport  Whips,  353. 

Oyster  Plant,  306. 

"    for  Children,  430. 

Nitrogen,  461,  480. 

"         "       Croquettes, 

"    Hot,  118. 

Noodles,  495. 

280. 

"    Porridge,  411. 

"         for  Dessert,  530. 

"      Cocktail,  487. 

Milkweed  Greens,  297. 

Norfolk  Cream,  357 

'      Croquettes,  279. 

Mineral  Matter,  481. 

Nutrition,  470. 

«      Fritters,  107. 

Mint  Sauce,  1%. 

Nut  Salad,  521. 

'      Salad,  314,  519. 

Miscellaneous  Hints,  435. 

"    Sandwich,  527. 

'      Sauce,  188. 

Mixed  Herbs,  32. 

Nuts,  393. 

'      Soup,  153. 

"      Spice  Salt,  32. 

"     To  Blanch,  436. 

'      Stew,  154. 

"      Spices,  32. 
Mixing,  33. 

"      in  Cake,  378,  545. 
"      Candied,  430. 

*      Stuffing,  163. 
Oysters,  175-179. 

Mock  Bisque,  147. 

Nuts  in  Ice-Cream,  365. 

"       with  Bacon,  178. 

"      Oyster  Stew,  173. 

"        Broiled,  179. 

"      Terrapin,  269. 

"       on     Chafing-Dish, 

"      Turtle  Sdup,  137. 

OATJOCAL,  108. 

509. 

Moulds,  43C. 

"         Biscuit,  88. 

"       en  Coquille,  509. 

Mousse,  547. 

"          for  Children,  414. 

"       Creamed,  177. 

Mucilage,  460. 

"         Gruel,  413. 

"        Creighton,  509. 

Muffins,  87-104. 

"         Mush,  109. 

'•        a     la     Demerara, 

"       Corn,  90. 

Oil,  Olive,  309. 

609. 

"    and  Rice,  92. 

Oils,  459. 

"       Fricasseed,  177. 

"      Cream,  89. 

"     Fixed,  460. 

"       Fried,  178. 

"      Flour,  87. 

"     Volatile,  460. 

"       on  Ice,  176. 

"      Fried,  103. 

Oleine,  459. 

"       a  la  MSitre 

"      Granulated  Wheat, 

Olive  Oil,  309. 

d'H6tel,  509. 

89. 

"     Sauce,  192,  504. 

"        Mock,  299. 

"      Rye,  90. 

Olives,  Beef,  270. 

«*       with    Mushrooms, 

Muriatic  Acid,  81. 

Omelets,  20(M203. 

178. 

Mush,  Brain  Food,  415. 

Cheese,  201. 

"       Panned,  509. 

"    Corn  Meal,  415. 

"        Chicken,  201. 

««       Parboiled,  176. 

"    Fried,  110. 

"        Clam,  201. 

"       Pickled,  179. 

"    Gluten,  415. 

"        Corn,  201. 

"       To  Prepare,  176. 

"    Graham,  415. 

"        Creamy,  202. 

"       Raw,  175. 

•'     Oatmeal,  110,  414. 

«•        Fancy,  201. 

"       Roasted,  175. 

'    Rye,  415. 

••        Poamy,  201. 

"       Bauted,  179. 

574 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Oysters,  Scalloped,  177. 

Pie,  Berry,  326. 

Potatoes  on  Half  Shell,  295. 

"       in  Shells,  175. 

'  '  Chess,  324. 

"        Lyonnaise,  294. 

"       Smothered,  176. 

"    Chicken,  268. 

"        Macaroni,  296. 

Ozmazonie,  123. 

"    Custard,  325. 

"        a  1»  Maitre 

"    Eccles,  326. 

d'H6tel,  295. 

"    Lemon,  324. 

*'        Mashed,  294. 

PANADA,  414. 

'    Marlboro,  327. 

"        a  la  Neige,  293. 

Chicken,  426. 

'    Meat,  272. 

"        Parisienne,  296. 

Pan  Broiling,  23. 

'    Mince,  326. 

"        Rice,  293. 

Pancakes,  French,  102. 

'         "      Plain,  326. 

"         Saratoga,  296. 

Panfish,  159,  166. 

'    Paste  for  one,  323. 

"        in  Stock,  578. 

Pannikins,  205. 

'    Pumpkin,  325,  327. 

"        Stuffed,  296. 

Panocha,  512. 

"    To     Roll    Paste    for, 

"        Sweet,  296. 

Paper  Boxes,  436. 

322. 

"             "    Baked,  296. 

Paprika  Huhn,  503. 

"    Rhubarb,  325. 

Pot-Pourri,  556. 

Parfait,  Cafe',  546. 
Parker  House  RoUs,  70. 

"    Squash,  325. 
Pies,  322-326. 

Potting,  277. 
Poultry,  251-264. 

Parsley,  119. 

Pig,  Roast,  245. 

"      To  Carve,  255. 

"        Sauce,  188. 

Pigeons,  Braised,  262. 

"      To  Choose,  251. 

Parsnip  Fritters,  305. 

"        To  Choose,  252. 

"      To  Clean,  252. 

"      and     Pork     Stew, 

"        Potted,  262. 

"      To  Dress  for  Broil- 

250. 

"        Stuffed  with  Pars- 

ing, 255. 

Parsnips,  305. 

ley,  262. 

"      To  Dress  for  Fric- 

Partridges, 506. 

Pigs  in  Blankets,  178. 

assee,  253. 

Paste  Cream,  323. 

Pike,  491. 

"      To  Dress  for  Roast- 

'    for  one  Pie,  323. 

Pilaf,  Turkish,  283. 

ing,  253. 

'     for  Patties,  319. 

Pilau,  Chicken,  268. 

"      Gravy  for,  256. 

'     Plain,  324. 

Pineapples,  392,  399. 

"       To  Stuff  and  Truss, 

'     Puff,  316-319. 

Pistachio      Cream      Cake, 

254. 

'     for  Tarts,  319. 
Pastry  Bag,  437. 

542. 
"        Ice-Cream,  365. 

Pralines,  Cafe",  547. 
Prawns,  184. 

"      Tubes,  437. 
Patties,  320. 

Plaits,  322. 
Plombiere,  366. 

Preserves,  398. 
"        Blackberry,  400. 

Peaches,  392. 

Plums,  398,  402'. 

"        Cherry,  400. 

"        Canned,  402. 

Pokeberry  Syrup,  382. 

"        Citron,  557. 

"        Pickled,  403. 

Polonaise  Cakes,  321. 

"        Currants,  400. 

"        Preserved,  398. 

Pop-overs,  94. 

"        Damsons,  398. 

Peanut  Sauce,  193. 

Porcupine  of  Meat,  272. 

"        Peaches,  398. 

Pearlash,  80. 

Pork,  245-250. 

"        Pineapples,  399. 

Pears,  394. 

"      and  Beans,  249. 

"        Quinces,  399. 

"       Canned,  402. 

"      Chops,  240,  501. 

"        Raspberries,  400. 

"      Pickled,  403. 

"      Roast,  246. 

"        Strawberries,  400. 

Peas,  Green,  298. 

"      Salt,  246. 

"         Strawberry 

"     Puree  of,  149,  150. 

"      Steaks,  246. 

Tomatoes,  399, 

"     Split,  149. 

Porridge,  Bean,  287. 

558. 

Pease  Griddle-Cakes,  101. 

"         Milk  and  Plum, 

Proportions,  Table  of,  31. 

Pectose,  396,  460. 

411. 

Prune  Cream,  534,  557. 

Pepper,  431,  465. 

Port  Wine  Jelly,  41G. 

Prunellas,  280. 

Pepperpot,  498. 

"        "     Sauce,  193. 

Prunes,  395,  554. 

Perch,  165. 

Pot  Roast,  227. 

Ptyalliu,  472. 

Piccallili,  404. 

Potage    a    la    Reine,    144, 

Pudding,  Apple  Meringue, 

Pickerel,  491. 

145. 

333. 

Pickles,  403-405. 

Potash,  80. 

"       Apple  Porcupine, 

"       Cucumber,  404. 

Potato  Balls,  294. 

334. 

"       Mango,  559. 

Border,  275. 

"       Apple  Snowballs, 

"       Mixed,  405. 

Croquettes,  280. 

335. 

"       Mustard,  406. 

Puff,  294. 

"       Apple  Tapioca. 

"       Sweet,  403. 

Salad,  313,  524. 

333. 

"           "    Cucumber, 

Soup,  146. 

"       Apricot,  335. 

403. 

Yeast.  62. 

"             "      Dried,  533. 

"           «•     Melon,  403. 

Potatoes,  Baked,  295. 

«'       Bird's  Nest,  333. 

"           "    Peach,  403. 

Boiled,  293. 

"       Boiled  in  a  Cloth, 

"           "    Pear,  403. 
"           "    Pineapple, 

in  Bread,  53. 
Creamed,  294. 

435. 
"       Bread,  337. 

403. 

Franconia,  295. 

"       Bread    and  Fruit. 

"           "     Tomato,  403. 

French,  295. 

332. 

"           "    Watermelon, 

Fried,  295. 

"       Cabinet,  339. 

403. 

"      Raw,  296. 

*«       Carrot,  332. 

Pie,  Apple.  325,  529. 

au  Gratin,  517. 

"       Cherry,  531. 

Alphabetical  Index. 


575 


Pudding,  Cherry,  Iced,  534.  Puree  of  Peas,  Green,  150.    Rye    Bread,  67. 

"       Chocolate,  341.        j     "       ««     "      Split,  149.          "    Gems,  94. 

"       Christmas,  340.            "      of  Potatoes,  146.             "    Meal,  109. 

"       Coburg,  532.                 "      of  Salmon,  152.                "    Muffins,  90 

"       Cottage,  331.                "      of  Vegetables,  151.         "        "    Fried,  104. 

"       Custard  Souffle.      Putrefaction,  462. 

'    Mush,  415. 

337. 

"       Danish,  342.. 

"       Delicate,  344. 

QUAIL,  263,  506.                     SAGO,  457. 

"       Dorchester,  533. 

Quinces,  394,  397,  399.           Salads,  309^315,  518-524. 

"       Dutch  Apple,  331. 

Salad,  Apple   and    Celery, 

"       Eddington,  532. 

520. 

"       Eve's,  333. 
"       Fig,  532. 

RABBITS,  264,  505. 
Racahout  des  Arabes,  427. 

"       Apple,   Celery,   and 
Chestnut,  520. 

"      Friar's  Omelet, 

Radishes,  518. 

"            "    and       Onion, 

334. 

Ragout  of    Cooked    Meat, 

521. 

"       French  Bread,  338. 

273. 

"       Asparagus,  523. 

"       Frozen,  366,  552. 

Raisins,  290,  393. 

"       Banana,  315. 

"       Fruit,  342. 

"        To  Stone,  435. 

"       Celery,  312,  520. 

"       Fruit,  Steamed, 

Rarebit,  Haddock,  493. 

"       Chicken,  314. 

339. 

"        Roquefort,  511. 

"       Crab,  184. 

••       Fruit  Tapioca,  342. 
"      Gelatine,  346. 

"        Welsh,  282,  511. 
Raspberries,  392,  400,  492. 

"       Cucumber,  312,  519, 
313. 

"       Indian  Corn  Meal,  Rattlerand,  219. 

"       Dressing,   310,   311, 

286,  288,  338.         RechauffS,  Meat,  265. 

525. 

"       Macaroon,  530. 

Reptiles,  185. 

"       Egg,  209,  314. 

"       Mist,  534. 

Rhubarb,  395. 

"       Fish,  314. 

"      Nesselrode,  366. 

Jelly,  556. 

"       Fruit,  522. 

"       Pandowdy,  332. 

"        Pie,  325. 

"       Lettuce,  312,  525. 

"       Plain  Plum,  337. 

Rice,  109. 

"       Lincoln,  519. 

"       Poor  Man's,  335. 

"    Boiled,  306. 

"       Lobster,  315. 

"       Prune,  357. 

"    Casserole,  274. 

"       Nut,  521. 

"       Prune  Cream,  534. 

"    with  Cheese,  307. 

"       Oyster,  314,  519. 

"       Queen  of,  338. 

"    Croquettes,  281. 

"       Potato,  524,  313. 

"       Rice,  335. 

"    Crusts,  94. 

"       Remnant,  523. 

"       Rice  Custard,  336. 

"    Custard,  336. 

"       Salmon,  315. 

"       Rice  and  Fruit, 
336. 

"    Drop  Cakes,  94. 
"    Griddle  Cakes,  100. 

"       Sandwiches,  315. 
"       Shrimp,  184. 

"       Rice  Souffl^  336. 

"    Jelly  or  Water,  415. 

"       Spring,  518. 

"       Roly  Poly,  531. 

"    for  Luncheon,  517. 

"       Strawberry,  315. 

"       Royal  Diplomatic, 

"    Salmon,  307. 

"       Tomato,  522,  313. 

358. 

"    Savory,  307. 

Saleratus,  80. 

"       Sauces,  328. 

"    Souffl6,  336.                   Salisbury  Steak,  498. 

"       Scalloped  Apple, 
331. 

"     Steamed,  307.               i  Sally  Lunn,  87,  88. 
Rissoles,  321.                           Salmis  of  Game,  270. 

"       Snow,  347.                 Riz  a  I'lmp^ratrice,  356.        Salmon,  159,  162,  165,  166. 

"       Sponge,  337.             Roasting,  20. 

"        Puree  of,  152. 

"            "    Cake,  533.      Roll  Sultana,  549. 

"        Salad,  315. 

"            "    Creamy,  531.  iRolls,  68. 

Sandwich,  526. 

"       Steamed       Apple, 

"    Braided,  71. 

Salt,  455. 

332. 

"    Cleft,  70. 

"    Mixed,  32. 

"       Suet     and     Fruit, 

"    Crescents,  71. 

"    Mineral,  455. 

339. 

"    Cross,  70. 

"    Rochelle,  48. 

*«       Thanksgiving 
Plum,  341. 

"    Finger,  70. 
««    French,  71, 

Sand  Cakes,  545. 
Sandwiches,  273. 

••       Tipsy,  343. 

"    Imperial,  69. 

"           Beef,    corned, 

"      Whole-Wheat, 

"    Letter,  70. 

273. 

338. 

"    Parker  House,  70 

"               "    raw,  424. 

"      Yorkshire,  221. 

"     Pocket-Book,  70. 

"            Brown  Bread, 

Puddings,  331-360. 

"    Quick,  484. 

525. 

Puffs,  94,  95. 

"    Swedish,  72 

"           Cheese     and 

Punch,  118. 

"    Twin,  70. 

Nut,  527. 

"       Roman,  549. 

"    Vienna,  71. 

"            Cherry,  527. 

Puree  of  Beans,  148,  513. 

"    White  Mountain,  72 

"            Crab-Apple, 

"      of  Celery,  147. 

Roman  Punch,  549. 

527. 

"      of  Clams,  158. 

Roquefort  Rarebit,  511. 

"            Cucumber.  527. 

"      of  Corn,  Sweet,  150. 

Rusks,  73. 

"           Date  and  Nut. 

"      of  Fish,  152. 

"      Dried,  74. 

528. 

*«      of  Lobster,  152. 

Rye,  109. 

••           Fig,  528. 

5/6 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Sandwiches,  Flower,  526. 

Sauce,  Caramel,  330. 

Soup,  Cherry,  158. 

"            Ginger,  528. 

"      Chocolate,  Hot,  536. 

"      Chicken,  144. 

"            Ham,  273. 

"      Creamy,  329. 

"      Clam,  154. 

"            Lettuce,  526. 

"      Foamy,  329. 

"     Clear,  131. 

"            Marmalade, 

"      Hard,  328. 

"      Coloring  for,  134. 

Orange,  528. 

"     for  Ice-Cream,  536. 

"     Consomme",  131. 

"            Mushroom, 

'      Lemon,  328. 

"      Corn,  150. 

528. 

'      Molasses,  330. 

"         "      Hulled,  494. 

"            Salad,  315. 

'      Plain,  330. 

'      Crecy,  134. 

"            Salmon,  526. 
Sardine,  273. 

'      Snowdrift,  328. 
'      Whipped    Cream, 

'      Digester,  122. 
'      Fish,  152. 

"           Sweetbread, 

328 

'      Gumbo,  497. 

526. 

"      Wine,  330. 

'     Julienne,  132. 

"            Tongue,  273. 

"      Yellow,  330. 

'      Left-over,  132. 

Sardine  Canapes,  283. 

Sausages,  248. 

'      Lentil,  495 

"       Sandwiches,  273. 

Saute"ing,  17. 

"      Lobster,  152,  153. 

Sardines  a  la  Sterneau,  510. 

Scallops,  181. 

"      Macaroni,  133. 

Sauces,  Meat  and  Fish,  187- 

Scotch  Broth,  140. 

'      Mock  Bisque,  147. 

196. 

"      Eggs,  207. 

'      Mock  Turtle,  137. 

Sauce,  Acid,  188. 

Seasoning  for  Soup,  126. 

Mullagatawuy,  139. 

"      Apple,  553. 

Shad,  162,  163,  490. 

'      Onion,  495. 

"      Bearnaise,  196. 

Shell  Fish,  175-186. 

'      Ox-Tail,  139. 

Bechamel,  189. 

Shells,  117. 

'      Oyster,  153. 

Brain,  242. 

"       Rye,  94. 

'      Pea,  Canned,  495. 

Bread,  193. 

Sherbet,  Banana,  549. 

'        "     Green,  150. 

Brown,  191. 

"        Lemon,  368. 

'        "     Split,  149. 

Caper,  188. 

"              "    Ginger,  550. 

'      PotagealaReine,144. 

Celery,  189. 

"        Milk,  550. 

'      Potato,  146. 

Chestnut,  192,  258. 

"        Orange,  368. 

'     Rice,  133. 

Claret,  552. 

"        Pineapple,  368. 

'      Kago,  133. 

Cream,  190. 

"        Raspberry,  368. 

'      Salmon,  152. 

Cucumber,  511. 
Cumberland,  192. 

'  "        Strawberry,  3ciS. 
"        White  Velvet,  550. 

'      Tapioca,  133. 
"      Thickening  for,  135. 

Currant  Jelly,  191. 

Short  Cakes,  84-86. 

"      Tomato,  with  Stock, 

Curry,  190. 

'                 Apricot,  85. 

133. 

Drawn  Butter,  187. 

'                Orange,  86. 

"      Tomato,  without 

"           "       Rich- 

'               Peach,  85. 

Stock,   147. 

er,  189. 

'                Rye,  86. 

"      Turkey,  142. 

Egg,  188. 

'                Strawberry,  85. 

"      Turtle,  Green,  186. 

Espagnole,  193. 

'                Whole-Wheat, 

"           "       Mock,  137. 

Fish,  190. 

86. 

"      Veal,  143. 

for  Fishballs,  19C. 

Shrimps  en  Coquille,  184. 

"      Vegetable,Mixed,134. 

Flemish,  192. 

"        Salad,  184. 

"      Vegetable,  Winter, 

Hollandaise,  194. 

"        Sauce,  188. 

151. 

Horseradish,  195. 

"        Scalloped,  184 

"      Vermicelli,  133. 

a  la  Italienne,  192. 

Sick-Room    Cookery,    407, 

"      White,  143,  144. 

Lemon,  188. 

434. 

Souse,  248. 

Lobster,  188. 

Slappers,  101. 

Spaghetti,  309. 

Mattred'H6tel,195, 

Slippery  Elm  Tea,  419. 

Spanish  Cream,  346. 

196. 

Smelts,  160,  165,  493. 

"       Eggs,  200. 

Mint,  196. 

Soda,  80. 

Spice,  Mixed,  32. 

Mushroom,  190,  191. 

"      Biscuit,  83. 

Spices,  465. 

Mustard,  188. 

"      in  Yeast  Bread,  57. 

Spinach,  296. 

Olive,  192,  504. 

Soubise  Sauce,  193. 

Squabs,  252,  507. 

Oyster,  188. 

Souffte  Cheese,  282. 

Squash,  Griddle  Cakes,  162. 

Parsley,  188. 

"       Custard,  337. 

"      Pie,  325. 

Peanut,  193. 

"       Fruit,  535. 

"      Summer,  304,  575. 

Piquante,  189,  191. 

«•       Meat,  276. 

"      Winter,  304. 

Poivrade,  191. 

"       Omelet,  203. 

Squirrels,  264,  505. 

Port  Wine,  193. 

"       Rice,  336. 

Stale  Bread,  75. 

Robert,  191. 

Soup,  119-186. 

Starch,  456.    . 

Shrimp,  188. 

"      Amber,  131. 

"       Corn,  456. 

Soubise,  193. 

"      Barley,  133,  417. 

Steak,  Beef,  223,  426. 

Tartar,  194,  195 

"      Bean,  Black,  148. 

"      Salisbury,  498. 

Tartare,  195,  312           "         "    '  Green,  513. 

Stearine,  459. 

Tomato,  193,  194. 

Bisque,  Mock,  147. 

Stew,  Beef,  225. 

White,  189. 

"      Brown,  130. 

"     Brunswick,  264. 

Sauces,  Pudding,  328-330.    1    "      Car  rot  j  134. 

"     Chicken,  258. 

Sauce,  Apricot,  32».             |    •*     Celery,  147. 

"     Fish,  168. 

Alphabetical  Index. 


577 


Stew,  Mock  Oyster,  173. 

Table  of  Cost  of  Meat,  213. 

Turbot,  491. 

"     Mutton,  237. 

"     "  Proportions,  31. 

Turkey,  Boiled,  266. 

"     Oyster,  154. 
"     Parsnip,  250. 

"    "  Time    for    Cook- 
ing, 24. 

"       Boned,  27,  266. 
"       Roast,  256. 

"     Veal,  240. 

"     "   Weights          and 

"       Soup,  142. 

Stewing,  12. 
Sticks,  71. 
Stirring,  33. 

Measures,  30. 
Tamarind  Water,  420. 
Tapioca,  457. 

Turnips,  305. 
Turtle,  Green,  186. 
Tutti  Frutti,  365,  558. 

Stock,  121-129 

"       Apple,  333. 

"     To  Clear,  129. 

"       Cream,  345. 

"       "  Color,  127. 

"       Fruit,  342. 

VANILLA,  431. 

"      "  Strain,  127. 

"       Jelly,  416. 

Sugar,  437. 

"      "  Remove  Fat 

Tartar  Sauce,  194. 

Veal,  239. 

from,  128. 

Tartare  Sauce,  195. 

Birds,  276. 

Stoves,  6-8. 

Tarts,  319,  529. 

Braised,  240,  499. 

Strawberries,  392., 

Tea,  111. 

Casserole,  274. 

Canned,  402, 

Apple,  419. 

Chops,  499. 

406. 

Beef,  422-425. 

Croquettes,  279. 

Strawberry  Charlotte,  348. 
"          Cream,  355,  356. 

Corn,  419. 
Egg,  426. 

Cutlets,  240. 
Fricandean,  240. 

"          Frapp<§,  548. 

Herb,  420. 

Fricassee,  240. 

"          Ice-Cream,  364, 

Iced,  112. 

Loaf,  276. 

553. 

Russian,  112. 

Melton,  276. 

•«          Preserve,    400, 

Slippery-Elm,  419. 

Pot-Pie,  240. 

555. 

Tea  Cakes,  89. 

*     Roast,  239. 

"          Salad,  315. 

Terrapin,  186. 

"     Stew,  240. 

"          Shortcake,  85. 

"        Crab,  510. 

Vegetables,  289. 

"          Tomato,      399, 

"        Chicken  or  Mock, 

Food,  291. 

558 

269. 

"          Hash  230. 

Stuffing  for  Fish,"  163. 
*        Chestnut,  258. 

Thirded  Bread,  67. 
Timbale   Cups,  Swedish, 

Velvet  Cream,  349. 
«'     Sauce,  190. 

«        Chicken,  258. 

107. 

Venison,  263,  426. 

'        Mutton,  234. 

Timbales,  Egg,  209. 

Ventilation,  407. 

1        Oyster,  163. 

Toast,  77. 

Vermicelli,  308. 

'        Turkey,  254,  258. 

"    Anchovy,  508. 

Egg,  206. 

Succotash,  284,  299. 

"    Cream,  79. 

Vol-au-vent,  321. 

Sucrose,  458. 

"    Egg,  76. 

Suet,  To  Chop,  435. 

"    French,  77. 

Suet  Pudding,  339. 

"    for  Garnishing,  79. 

WAI-BE  Biscuit,  96. 

Sugar,  458. 

"    Milk,  78. 

Wafers,  Anise-seed,  544. 

"        in  Bread,  53. 

"    Water,  79. 

"       Gluten,  97. 

Sultana  Roll,  551. 
Sultanas,  290. 

Toast  Water,  419. 
Tomato  Catchup,  404. 

"       Graham,  96. 
Waffle-iron,  98. 

Swedish  Timbales,  107. 
Sweetbreads,'  243. 

"      Jelly,  522. 
"      Omelet,  307. 

Waffles,  97. 
"      Corn  Meal,  99. 

««        Braised,  244. 

"      Salad,  313,  522. 

"      Graham,  99. 

"        Broiled,  243. 

"      Sauce,  193,  194. 

"      Raised,  99. 

"        Creamed,  243. 

"      Strawberry    Pre- 

Walnut Salad,  521. 

"        Croquettes,  279. 

serve,  399,  558. 

"       Wafers,  545. 

"        Fricasseed,  500. 

"      Sweet  Pickle,  403. 

Washing  Dishes,  442-448. 

•*        Fried,  -J43. 

Tomatoes,  Canned,  402. 

Water,  1,  8-13,  454. 

"        Fritters,  244. 

"        Green,  404,   406, 

"      Apple,  419. 

"        Garnish     for, 

517. 

"      Barberry,  419. 

244. 

"        ScaUoped,  300. 

"      Barley,  418. 

"        Larded,  243. 

"        Stewed,  300. 

"      Cranberry,  419. 

"        with      Mush- 

"       Stuffed,  300. 

"      CreamofTartar,419 

rooms,  243. 
"        Salad,  519. 

Tongue,  Braised,  224. 
"       in  Jelly,  230. 

"      Fruit  Syrup,  419. 
"      Gum,  419. 

"        Sandwich,  526. 

"       Sandwich,  273. 

"      Rice,  415. 

Scalloped,  243. 

"       Smoked,  230. 

"      Tamarind,  420. 

Swordfish,  492. 
Syrup,  Lemon,  98. 

TABLE  ETIQUETTE,  441. 

Tongues,  Lamb's,  238. 
"         Sheep's,  238. 
Tongues  and  Sounds,  173. 
Tripe  in  Batter,  231. 
"     Broiled,  231. 

"      Toast,  419. 
"       Whortleberry,  419. 
Watercress,  438. 
Water  Ices,  367,  369. 
Water,  Circulation  of,  478. 

"     Laying,  440. 
"      of    Cost    of    Fish, 

"     Lyonnaise,  230. 
Tropical  Snow,  393. 

Weights  and  Measures,  30. 
Welsh  Rarebit,  282,  511. 

174. 

Troat,  161 

Wheat,  37. 

**     of  Cost  of  Food,  35. 

TruffleB,  291. 

"       Cracked,  110. 

37 

578 


The  Boston  Cook  Book. 


Wheat,  Flour,  39. 
"       Granulated,  95,  110. 
Whey,  464. 
White  fish,  162. 
Whips,  Cream,  353. 
"       Newport,  353. 
Whole-  Wheat  Crisps,  95. 
"           "      Gems,  95. 
"          "      Muffins,  89. 
Wine  Jelly,  349. 

Wine  Whey,  464. 
Wonders,  106. 
Woodcock,  263. 
„          Scotch,  507. 
Wood,  5. 

YKAST,  46. 
"      Compressed,  49. 
"      Dry,  49. 

Yeast,  Home-Made,  50. 
"      Hop,  63. 
"      Potato,  Raw,  62. 
"           "       Boiled,  63. 
Yorkshire  Pudding,  221. 

ZEST  of  Lemon,  565. 
Zwieback,  485. 
"        Pudding,  530 

JVLra  Lincoln's 

Baking  powder 


A  scientific  compound  containing  only  the 
highest  grade  of  CREAM  OF  TARTAR  and 
BICARBONATE  OF  SODA,  with  the  small- 
est percentage  ofr  cornstarch  necessary  for 
its  perfect  keeping. 


Food  made  with  it  is  finer  grained, 
sweeter,  more  healthful,  and  keeps 
moist  longer  than  that  raised  by 
the  more  rapid  action  of  powders 
containing  other  acids. 

SOLD    BY    ALL    FIRST-CLASS    GROCERS 

Mrs.   Lincoln's   Baking 
Powder  Company 

No.  21    Commerce  Street,  Boston,  Mass. 


F055' 


EXTRACTS    : 

In  any  of  the  valuable  receipts  in  this  book 
where  fruit  flavoring  is  called  for,  the  very  best 

results  will  be  obtained  by  using 

*. 

FOSS'  PURE  FLAVORING  EXTRACTS. 


BECAUSE 


WHY? 

OF  THEIR  ABSOLUTE  PURITY. 
OF  THEIR  DELICATE  FLAVOR. 
OF  THEIR  UNUSUAJj  STRENGTH, 


They  are  used  by  many  of  the  leading  teachers  of  cook- 
ery, and  are  also  used  at  the  BOSTON  COOKING  SCHOOL, 
where  the  aim  is  always  to  secure  the  Purest  and  Best 
articles  of  food. 

These  extracts  are  preferred  and  used  by  MRS. 
MARY  J.  LINCOLN. 


Awarded  the  Gold  Medal  (Highest  Award)  by  the  Massachusetts  Charitable 
Mechanic  Association,  1892,  for  Purity  and  Superiority. 


PREPARED  BY 

SCHLOTTERBECK  &  FOSS  Co.,  Portland,  Me. 

(Sold  by  all  first  class  Grocers) 


DELICIOUS  V 


IF  you  are  not  entirely 
satisfied  with  the  qual- 
ity of  the  Hams  and 
Bacon  you  have  been 
selling,  why  not  try  the 
"FERRIS,"  which  has 
been  the  leading  Brand 
for  half  a  century;  so  re- 
liable as  to  be  used  as  the 

STANDARD  OF 
COMPARISON 

"A  Little  Higher  in  Price 
BUT—!" 


"  A  PURE  COCOA  OF  UNDOUBTED  QUALITY 
AND  EXCELLENCE  OF  MANUFACTURE" 


=THAT  IS= 


Walter  Baker's 


Dr.  Goodfellow,  of  the 
London  (Eng.)  Techni- 
cal College,  in  giving 
some  hints  concerning 
the  proper  preparation  of 
cocoa,  says: 

"  Start  with  a  pure  cocoa 
of  undoubted  quality  and 
excellence  of  manufacture, 
and  which  bears  the  name 
of  a  respectable  firm.  This 
point  is  important,  for 
there  are  many  cocoas  on 
the  market  which  have 
been  doctored  by  the  ad= 
dition  of  alkali,  starch, 
malt,  kola,  hops,  etc." 


TRADE-MARK 


Examine  the  package  you  receive  and  make  sure 

that  it  bears  our  trade-mark. 

Under  the  decisions  of  the  U.  S.  Courts  no  other 

Cocoa  is  entitled  to  be  labeled  or  sold  as  "Baker's 

Cocoa." 


WALTER  BAKER  &  CO.,  Ltd. 

ESTABLISHED  1780  •  DORCHESTER,  MASS. 

40    HIGHEST    AWARDS    IN  EUROPE    AND   AMERICA 


MAKE 
YOUR 
OWN 


ICE  CREAM 


AND    A   VARIETY    OF 

DAINTY    DESSERTS 

with  CHR.    HANSEN'S 

JUNKET  TABLETS 

JO  Tablets  for  JO  Quarts  JO  Cents  •  Book  of  rec- 
ipes, " Have  Some  Junket,"  free  with  every  box 


CHR.  HANSEN'S 
PURE  FOOD  COLORS 


Are  indispensable  for  Ice  Cream, 
Confectionery,  or  Junket  <£•  The 
Colors  are  liquid,  in  one-ounce  bot- 
tles, sold  at  10  cents  each,  and  are: 
BERRY  BLUE,  GRAPE  GREEN,  PLUM 
PURPLE,  RASPBERRY  RED,  LEMON 
YELLOW,  AND  ORANGE  GOLD. 


Ask  your  Grocer  for  CHR.  HANSEN'S  PURE  FOOD 
PREPARATIONS,  or  send  us  JO  cents  for  JO  JUNKET 
TABLETS,  and  write  us  for  descriptive  circulars  &  J*  J* 

CHR.  HANSEN'S  LABORATORY 


P.O. Box     LITTLE  FALLS 
1095 


NEW  YORK 


WHITE  COTTOLENE 


The  best  cooks  are  those  who  know  the  difference  in  the 
values  of  materials  used  in  cooking.  And  the  best  cooks  of 
to-day  know  that  WHITE  COTTOLENE  contains  far  more 
real  value  than  any  other  cooking  fat. 

MRS.  LINCOLN  uses  and  recommends  WHITE  COT- 
TOLENE because  she  finds  it  a  valuable  adjunct  to  good 
cookery. 

WHITE  COTTOLENE  is  always  uniform  in  quality,  in- 
suring perfect  results.  The  process  of  manufacture  has 
been  so  perfected  that  COTTOLENE  is  practically  odor- 
less, tasteless,  and  neutral,  bringing  out  all  the  natural 
merits  of  foods  with  which  it  is  combined,  and  as  a  result, 
producing  foods  that  are  wholesome,  delicate,  and  healtKful. 

WHITE  COTTOLENE  is  sold  only  in  sealed  tin  pails,  and 
all  good  grocers  keep  it  in  stock.  Look  for  the  steer's  head 
in  cotton  plant  wreath,  and  do  not  accept  an  inferior  sub- 
stitute said  to  be  "just  as  good." 


THE  N.  K.  FAIRBANK  COMPANY 

CHICAGO  NEW  YORK  BOSTON 

PHILADELPHIA  ST.  Louis  SAN  FRANCISCO  MONTREAL 


If  you  will  send  us  a  two-cent 
stamp,  to  pay  postage,  we  will 
mail  you  free,  our  book,  entitled 
"  Home  Helps,"  edited  by  Mrs. 
Rorer,  and  containing  600  val- 
uable recipes.  Address  Dept.  Z. 


ESTABLISHED  1831. 


INCORPORATED  1894. 


S.  S.  PIERCE  CO. 


dFlour. 


The  highest  possible  grade  of 
Flour  for  bread-making  purposes. 


APPROVED   BY  ... 


.MRS.  LINCOLN. 


S.  S.  PIERCE  CO. 


ana 


TREMONT  BUILDING,  Cor.  Tremont  and  Beacon  Streets,  \ 

COR.  HUNTINGTON  AVE.  AND  DARTMOUTH  STREET,    V  •  •  •  • 

185-199  MILK  STREET,  Wholesale, 

COOLIDGE'S  CORNER,  BROOKLINE. 

SEND    FOR    PRICE-LIST. 


FINE -.CLEAN 
P  U   R  E  ««•••« 


USED  &T 
RECOMMENDED 
ty  MRS. 
LINCOLN 


WI  L  L    N  OT 
HARDEN 


For  every  meal  in  the  week  a.  different  easy  'way  of  seizing 
Quaker  Oats.  And  in  every  way  a  new  interest  to  the  palate* 
This  is  not  true  of  any  other  food —  or  even  of  any  other 
form  of  Oats.  True  only  of  Quaker  Oats. 


"American  Cereal  Foods  and  How  to  Cook  Them."   Edited  by  Mrs.  Rorer. 
—  Mailed  free,  for  your  name.  — Don't  send  postage. 


THE  AMERICAN  CEREAL  CO.,  Chicago,  111. 


Leading  Cooking  and  Heating  Goods  in  America 

HUB  RANGES 

are  made  in  every  size  and  style, 

including  the 

COMBINA- 
TION 
COAL  & 
GAS 
RANGE 


THE  PERFECT  CONTROL  that  a  Cook  has 
The 

Hub  Range 

MAK  ES   ft  fS 

COOKING 

A  PLEASURE 

HUB  RANGES 

Used  and  recom- 
mended by  all  the 
leading  Cooking 
Schools. 

Monarch  Hub  with  Gas  Attachment 


over 


Sold  by  leading  dealers,  and  manufactured  and  warranted  by 
SMITH    6?   ANTHONY  CO.,  48'54  UNION  STREET 


BOSTON,  MASS.   fZ 


Send  for  descriptive  circulars 


ESTABLISHED    1831    •    INCORPORATED    1894 

S.  S.  PIERCE  CO. 

SOLE  AGENTS  IN  THE  UNITED  STATES  FOR 

Veuve  Chaffard 

JARDIN    DE    LAFRANCE 


PURE 

OLIVE 

OIL 

IN    HONEST    BOTTLES 

Receiving  this  high  grade  Pure  Olive  OH,  as  we  do, 
directly  from  the  grower,  all  intermediate  profits  are 
saved  to  the  consumer.  * 

USED  BY  MRS.  LINCOLN 
SOLD  BY  PARK   &  TILFORD,  NEW  YORK 


S.  S.  PIERCE   CO.,  Importers  &  Grocers 

TREMONT  BUILDING,  Cor.  Tremont  and  Beacon  Streets  ^ 

Cor.  HUNTINGTON  AVE.  and  DARTMOUTH  STREET    I  BOSTON 

185-199  MILK  STREET,  Wholesale  ) 

COOLIDGE'S  CORNER     :     :     :     BROOKLINE 


88  Years'  Success. 


Stickney  &  Poor 
Spice  Co. 


Founded  1815. 


Pure  Mustard^,          ^ 

Spice$,  Cream  Tartar,  Herb$, 

Etc.,  Etc. 

The  Largest  Grinders  of  Pure  Spices  in  the  World. 
Highest  Award  Gold  Medals,  1890=1892. 

Purity  and  Quality  Unexcelled. 


Ask  your  Grocer  for  the  above  brand  of  Spices, 

packed  in  1-4  Ib.  cartons,  or  1-4  Ib. 

full  weight  cans. 


Sold  all  around  the  World 

The  Standard  for  over  fifty  Years. 


HIGHEST   AWARDS: 

1893j  1876, 

CH  1C  AGO.         PHILADELPHIA. 


1851, 
LONDON. 


For  Food  .  .       f 

\ 

V%  Corn  ( 

forms,  with  milk   S 
or  beef  tea,  a  most 

EXCELLENT  FOOD 

FOR 

CHILDREN  AND  INVALIDS. 

It  is  a  wholesome  article  of 
diet  for  all 

Send  stamp  for  free   copy  of 
our  dainty  book  of  over  200  new 

recipes 

For  the  Laundry. . . 

IktUfffiif  Otto's  "§>Utet  (!i5lOfii0"  J§>tatC&  will  be  found  fai 
superior  to  all  other  starches  in  its  wonderful  strength  and  uniformity.  !t 
imparts  to  fine  laces,  linens,  and  muslins,  a  delicacy  and  lustre  simply 
incomparable. 

K.ilX(J0>f  Ottl'fi  "  :|jlttt£  StartQ  is  well  adapted  to  economical 
housekeepers.  It  is  a  genuine  article,  absolutely  pure,  never  varies  iu 
quality,  and  is  free  from  odor. 

BEST  QUALITY   IS  GOOD   ECONOMY 


T.   KINGSFORD    &    SOW,   Manufacturers. 

OSWEGO,  NEW  YORK, 


EVERYBODY  KNOWS  THAT 


MAKES  THE  BEST  BREAD 


PERHAPS  YOU  DON'T  KNOW 
THAT  IT  ALSO  MAKES  THE 
FINEST  FANCY  CAKE 
OF  NUMEROUS  KINDS 

USED      AND     APPROVED     ET 
MRS.     MARY    J.    LINCOLN 


CEND  postal  card  to  us  at  701  Washington 
Street^  New  Tork  City,  mention  MRS. 
LINCOLN'S  BOSTON  COOK  BOOK,  with  your 
address,  and  we  will  send  you  a  copy  of  our 
"CHOICE  RECIPES"  FREE  OF  COST 


IMPROVED     WHITE 

MOUNTAIN  FREEZER 


USED     BY     MRS.     LINCOLN 

Endorsed  and  recommended  by  all  leading  cooking  teachers 

THE    WHITE    MOUNTAIN    FREEZER 

is  the  quickest- freezing,  smoothest-working  ice-cream  freezer  in  existence.  It  makes 
the  most  delicious  ice-cream.  No  other  freezer  can  produce  cream  of  the  same  fine 
texture.  The  goodness  of  White  Mountain  ice-cream  is  due  to  the  triple  motion,  and 
the  way  it  beats  the  cream.  Just  as  you  can  more  thoroughly  beat  an  egg  with  an  egg- 
beater  than  with  a  spoon,  you  can  more  thoroughly  stir  and  freeze  ice-cream  with  the 
triple  motion  of  the  WHITE  MOUNTAIN.  This  triple  motion  is  effected  by  the  con- 
struction of  the  double  dasher.  The  two  parts  moving  in  opposite  directions  inside  the 
moving  can  produce  three  distinct  motions  of  the  cream.  This  can  be  shown  in  no 
other  freezer  manufactured  to-day. 

THE  MATERIALS  used  in  the  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  FREEZER  are  the  best  obtainable. 

THE  CONSTRUCTION  is  as  perfect  as  experience  can  make  it,  so  that,  with  ordinary 
care,  one  WHITE  MOUNTAIN  FREEZER  will  outlast  a  generation  of  people. 

Your  dealer  will  certify  to  the  correctness  of  these  statements.  Let  him  show  you 
the  freezer  and  take  your  order.  Then  you  '11  feel  sure  that  you  have  the  very  best. 

WHITE  MOUNTAIN  FREEZER  CO.,  Nashua,  N.  H. 


CffASE 


IMPORTED  IN  CANISTERS 

If  you  appreciate  GOODTIA 


SAVES  40%  OF 
GROUND  COFFEE 


fhe  "MARION  HARLAND"  Coffee  Pot 


PROCESS 
OF   COFFEE 
MAKING 


Is  scientifically  constructed,  and  is  recom- 
mended by  the  highest  medical  authori- 
ties as  the  world's  greatest  and  best 
Coffee-maker.  So  constructed  as  to  aid 
digestion,  as  the  coffee  is  not  boiled. 
It  will  save  40  per  cent  of  ground 
Coffee,  and  will  prepare  the  beverage 
in  a  minute. 

It  is  so  simple  a  child  can  use  it.  It 
condenses  all  vapor,  and  allows  no 
aroma  to  escape.  It  makes  the  Coffee 
bright  and  clear  without  eggs  or  any- 
thing else.  The  Coffee  Pots  are  all  Nickel-plated,  and  they  are  the 
handsomest  and  best  that  can  be  purchased  at  any  price. 
If  your  dealer  cannot  supply  you,  the  manufacturers  will  send  irry  size 
you  may  select,  delivered  free  by  express  to  any  address  east  of  the  Missis- 
sippi (and  50  cents  additional  elsewhere)  at  following  special  prices  for 
full  Nickel-plated  Pots,  satisfaction  guaranteed  : 

To  make  i  quart,  4  cups $1.25 

To  make  2  quarts,  8  cups 1.55 

To  make  3  quarts,  12  cups 1.80 

To  make  4  quarts,  16  cups 2.00 

MARION  HARLAND  writes  :   "  In  my  opinion  it  has  no  equal" 

Address  the  Manufacturers 

SILVER  &  CO.,  310  Hewes  Street 

BROOKLYN,   NEW   YORK 

Ask  Makers  for  Circular 


BOSTON    C  RYSTAL 
GELATINE  COMPANY 


MANUFACTURERS    OF   THE    CELEBRATED 


Boston 
Crystal 
Gelatine 

(Yellow  Label) 


/CONTAINS  no  acid  or  coloring  matter, 
^^*  is  absolutely  pure,  perfectly  clarified, 
sparkling  and  nutritious.  For  Jellies,  Blanc 
Mange,  Charlotte  Russe,  etc.,  it  is  unsurpassed 

USED     AND     APPROVED      BY 

MRS.   MARY  J.  LINCOLN 

SEND     STAMP     FOR     NEW 
RECIPES    BY    MRS.    LINCOLN 

Boston  Crystal  Gelatine  Co. 


Box  5185 


BOSTON,  MASS. 


CARVING  AND  SERVING 

By  Mrs.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN, 

AUTHOR   OF    "  THE   BOSTON  COOK   BOOK." 

Square  I2mo.     Illuminated  board  covers.     Price,  60  cents. 


"Carving  and  Serving,"  by  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln,  author  of  the  "Boston  Cooi 
Book,"  is  a  little  manual  by  the  aid  of  which  any  gentleman  or  lady  can  become  ar. 
expert  carver.  What  an  advantage  it  must  be  to  be  able  to  place  with  the  left  hands 
fork  in  the  breast  of  a  turkey,  and,  without  once  removing  it,  with  the  right  hand  to 
carve  and  dissect,  or  disjoint,  the  entire  fowl  ready  to  be  helped  to  admiring  guests ! 
This  is  done  by  skilful  carvers.  The  book  also  contains  directions  for  serving,  with** 
list  of  utensils  for  carving  and  serving. 

"  The  student  of  this  attractive  little  book  has  no  excuse  for  inefficiency  and  bun- 
gling, as  the  directions,  both  general  and  specific,  are  so  clear  that  no  room  is  left  fat 
uncertainty.  The  scope  of  the  book  broadens  somewhat  beyond  its  expressed  range 
in  giving  a  word  of  needful  advice  to  the  guest,  who  is  conjured  to  bear  in  mind  that 
he  is  invited  to  dine,  not  to  take  a  lesson  in  carving ;  adding  that  there  '  seems  to  be 
an  irresistible  fascination  about  carving  which  silences  all  tongues,  and  draws  all  eyes 
to  the  head  of  the  table.'  However,  if  the  process  is  performed  a  la  Mrs.  Lincoln, 
scrutiny  need  not  be  feared.  The  directions  in  serving  are  no  less  timely  and  valuable, 
being  founded  upon  a  combination  of  experience  and  good  taste  that  may  safely  be 
regarded  as  oracular."  —  Commonwealth. 

"'Carving  and  Serving,'  by  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln, is  a  capital  book  for  housekeepers. 
It  gives  minute  and  clear  directions  how  to  carve  everything  that  goes  on  to  the  table 
in  the  way  of  beef,  poultry,  and  game.  It  also  gives  instructions  how  to  prepare  all 
these  edibles,  and  appetizing  dishes  like  sweetbreads,  chops,  cutlets,  meat  pies,  salads, 
soups,  and  many  others.  And  what  is  greatly  essential,  it  gives  detailed  information 
how  to  serve  the  different  edibles  and  drinks,  to  cut  bread,  and,  last  but  not  least, 

\    gives  some  very  much-needed  advice  how  to  offer  all  these  things  at  the  table.  .  .  . 

\    The  book  is  full  of  such  pretty  suggestions,  as  well  as  solid  information,  and  there  if 
such  a  wide-spread  interest  to-day  among  educated  women  regarding  cooking,  serving, 

i    and  managing  dishes  on  the  table,  they  will  find  this  little  book  a  valuable  assistant  b» 

'r    ail  such  matters."  —  Hartford  Times. 


Sold  by  all  booksellers.      Mailed,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  prict 
by  the  publishers. 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND   COMPANY, 

BoSTOaf 


THE 

PEERLESS  COOK  BOOK 

By  MARY    J.    LINCOLN 
Contains   the   CREAM     OF    RECIPES 

A    NEW    EDITION   with  additional 
matter  of  interest  to  every  housekeeper 

Illuminated  Paper  Cover  only  25  Cents 


The   Peerless  Cook   Book  is  an  authority.      It  contains 

132  pages  of  valuable  cooking  recipes,  including 

over  one  hundred  additional  recipes 

FOR    THE    CHAFING    DISH 


The  name  of  Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln  on  a  book  of  household  advice 
is  sure  to  stamp  it  with  success.  Thousands  of  women  all  over  the 
land  owe  her  a  debt  of  gratitude  for  her  "  Boston  Cook  Book ;"  and 
now  thousands  more,  whose  lack  of  means  have  prevented  them  from 
owning  that  unequalled  volume,  may  rejoice  in  the  possession  of  the 
Peerless  Cook  Book.  This  little  collection  contains  over  four  hun- 
dred valuable  recipes.  A  few  of  these  are  taken  from  her  "  Boston 
Cook  Book;"  but  most  of  them  are  new,  and  all  are  of  the  most 
useful  and  practical  description,  bearing  the  mark  of  the  positive 
genius  which  Mrs.  Lincoln  possesses  for  culinary  composition. —  The 
Beacon. 

Mrs.  D.  A.  Lincoln's  "  Boston  Cook  Book  "  has  been  widely  recog- 
nized as  one  of  the  very  best  manuals  of  its  class,  and  her  new  venture 
in  the  same  field,  the  Peerless  Cook  Book,  which  is  issued  in  paper  at 
a  low  price,  will  find  a  host  of  friends  because  of  its  eminently  prac- 
tical character.  —  Christian  Union. 


Sold  by  all  Booksellers.     Mailed,  post-paid,  on  receipt  of  price 
fy  the  Publishers, 

LITTLE,  BROWN,  AND   COMPANY, 

BOSTON. 


Boston  School  Kitchen 


Cext-Booh 


Lessons  in  Cooking,  for 
the  use  of  Classes  in  Pub- 
lic and  Industrial  Schools 


By  MRS.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN 

AUTHOR     OF     "THE     BOSTON     COOK     BOOK" 

One  Volume.     i2mo.     Price,    $1.00 

I  regard  the  book  as  a  very  practical  one  for  a  text-book.  It  will  be 
especially  valuable  to  the  teacher  as  a  guide  to  the  lessons  she  gives.  The 
physiological  information  and  chemical  analysis  of  foods,  together  with  the 
tables  of  cost  at  the  end  of  the  book,  add  to  the  usefulness  of  the  work.  It  is 
an  undoubted  success  for  the  school-room.  —  WILLIAM  T.  HARRIS,  Concord, 
Mass. 

Your  "  Boston  School  Kitchen  Text-Book  "  appears  to  be  based  on  cor- 
rect principles  and  admirably  executed  as  regards  details.  I  hope  that  my  girls 
will  have  a  chance  to  practically  study  its  interesting  lessons.  Your  quiet 
assumption  (which  runs  through  the  whole  book)  that  there  is  a  good  and 
satisfactory  reason  behind  every  process  which  is  endorsed  by  good  usage,  is  a 
wholesome  one  which  it  is  well  that  children  should  early  learn.  —  C.  M. 
WOODWARD,  Manual  Training  School,  Washington  University,  St.  Louis, 
Mo. 

Allow  me  to  say  that  you  have  made  our  whole  country  your  debtor  by  the 
composition  of  a  book  so  much  needed,  and  so  simple,  sensible,  and  thorough. 
I  am  sure  the  book  is  its  own  best  plea  for  a  place  in  our  public  schools.  I 
believe  it  will  greatly  aid  in  making  instruction  in  the  theory  and  practice  of 
cookery  a  part  of  our  school  courses.  —  GEORGE  C.  CHASE,  Professor  of 
English  Literature,  Bates  College,  Lewiston,  Me. 


Twenty  Lessons  in  Cookery 

Compiled  from  the  Boston  School  Kitchen  Text  Book.  Printed 
on  tinted  cardfe,  convenient  for  reference  in  the  school  room  or 
for  children  to  use  at  home.  The  set  includes  about  one  hundred 
and  fifty  cooking  recipes  and  one  card  of  rules  for  general 
housework,  all  clearly  indexed  on  a  separate  card.  They  are 
used  in  the  public  and  industrial  school  cooking  classes  in  many 
of  our  principal  cities. 

Price  per  set,  40  cents.  Special  reduction  to  schools  or  parties 
purchasing  over  fifty  sets.  Sold  only  in  sets.  To  be 
obtained  only  of  Little,  Brown,  &  Co.,  or  of  Mrs.  Lincoln, 
204  Huntington  Avenue,  Boston. 


The  HOME  SCIENCE 
MAGAZINE  #  # 

"  THE  LEADING  HOUSEHOLD  MONTHLY  " 

Edited  by  MRS.  MARY  J.  LINCOLN 
and    MISS    ANNA    BARROWS 


To  make  each  number  better  than  the  last  is  the  aim  of  its 
editors. 

No  woman  in  America  has  been  more  helpful  to  thf  housewife 
than  Mrs.  Mary  J.  Lincoln,  the  culinary  editor,  whose  department 
"From  Day  to  Day"  is  filled  with  choice  recipes,  answers  to 
questions  and  valuable  suggestions,  and  needs  no  recommendation 
to  those  who  use  her  Boston  Cook  Book. 

Miss  Anna  Barrows,  the  literary  editor,  well  known  as  a  worker 
for  a  simpler,  healthier  home  life,  furnishes  valuable  papers  monthly. 

The  Motherhood  Department  and  Doctors'  Talks  with  mothers 
give  just  the  help  needed  by  young  mothers  in  facing  the  many 
physical  and  spiritual  problems  to  be  met  in  infancy  and  early 
childhood. 

No  teacher  of  domestic  science  can  afford  to  be  without  the  hints 
for  the  conduct  for  classes  in  domestic  science,  which  are  given  in 
every  issue. 


SAMPLE  COPIES  FREE  &  &  PRICE,  $1.00  PER  YEAR 

HOME    SCIENCE    PUBLISHING 
COMPANY  •  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 


READ    WHAT   THE   PRESS    &  SUBSCRIBERS  SAY  OF 

The  HOME  SCIENCE 
MAGAZINE   <# 


What  has  heretofore  been  known  as  the  American  Kitchen  Magazine, 
now  about  ten  years  old,  has  been  consolidated  with  the  magazine  known  as 
Motherhood,  and  is  published  under  the  title  of  the  HOME  SCIENCE  MAGAZINE. 
This  magazine  should  be  in  every  home,  and  contains  much  that  is  of  interest 
and  value  to  people  directly  and  indirectly  connected  with  culinary  matters.  It 
is  profusely  illustrated  and  the  articles  are  all  thoroughly  practical  and  to  the 
point.  It  does  a  great  deal  to  stimulate  the  love  of  domestic  science  and  the 
proper  conduct  of  the  home. The  Hotel  World. 

I  find  the  HOME  SCIENCE  MAGAZINE  very  helpful  and  inspiring.  —  C.  E.  S., 
Virginia. 

Have  received  much  benefit  from  the  magazine  in  these  years  that  I  have 
taken  it,  and  wish  you  success  in  your  work  of  bringing  better  conditions  into 
the  home.  —  A  Subscriber. 

I  am  very  glad  to  see  the  new  department  in  your  magazine.  It  is  what  I 
need  in  my  class  on  the  care  of  children.  —  A  Teacher  in  the  South. 

Let  me  congratulate  you  on  the  improved  magazine.  It  was  good  before, 
but  you  are  surely  making  it  indispensable  now.  —  A  Subscriber,  Ne<w 
Orleans. 

The  combination  of  magazines  has  given  just  what  every  house-keeping 
mother  needs.  —  A.  B.  S.,  Rhode  Island. 

My  little  girl,  six  months  old,  desires  through  me  to  thank  you  for  the  help 
your  valuable  paper  has  been  in  the  care  of  her.  Its  coming  is  eagerly  looked 
for,  and  its  contents  carefully  studied.  I  believe  that  it  is  due  to  the  sug- 
gestions found  therein  that  my  little  girl  has  not  been  sick  a  day  since  she" 
was  two  months  old. 

I  shall  always  recommend  the  HOME  SCIENCE  MAGAZINE  as  something  that 
every  mother  should  have. —  Mrs.  H.  G.  McD.,  New  York. 


THE  HOME  SCIENCE  MAGAZINE  is  not  given  to  fads. 
It  is  practical,  scientific,  and  truly  economical.  If  you  have 
never  seen  it,  send  for  a  sample  copy  to 

HOME  SCIENCE  PUBLISHING 
COMPANY  •  BOSTON,  MASSACHUSETTS 


"Among  all  the  Cook-Books  this  will  certainly  take  it* 
place  as  one  of  the  very  best"  —  THE  CHRISTIAN  UNION- 


MRS.    LINCOLN'S 

BOSTON    COOK-BOOK. 

WHAT    TO   DO   AND   WHAT   NOT   TO    DC 
IN    COOKING. 

BY  MRS.   MARY  J.   LINCOLN, 

FIRST  PRINCIPAL  OF  THE  BOSTON  COOKING-SCHOOL 

NEW    REVISED    EDITION,   including   25O   additional   recipes. 

With  50  Illustrations.     I2mo.     Cloth.     600  pages.    Price  $2.00. 


A  SELECTION  FROM  SOME  OF  THE  MANY  NOTICES  BY  THE  PRESS. 

"  Mrs.  Lincoln,  nothing  daunted  by  the  legion  of  cook-books  already  in  existence, 
thinks  there  is  room  for  one  more.  Her  handsome  and  serviceable-looking  volume 
seems  to  contain  everything  essential  to  a  complete  understanding  of  the  culinary  art. 
The  Introduction  of  thirty-five  pages  discusses  such  subjects  as  cooking  in  general, 
fire,  fuel,  management  of  a  stove,  the  various  processes  of  boiling,  stewing,  baking, 
flying,  roasting,  and  broiling,  with  full  explanation  of  the  chemical  theory  underlying 
each  and  distinguishing  them  ;  also  hints  on  measuring  and  mixing,  with  tables  ot 
weights,  measures,  and  proportions ;  of  time  in  cooking  various  articles,  and  of 
average  cost  of  material.  One  who  can  learn  nothing  from  this  very  instructive 
Introduction  must  be  well-informed  indeed.  Following  this  comes  an  elaborate  and 
exhaustive  chapter  on  bread-making  in  all  its  steps  and  phases.  To  this  important 
topic  some  seventy  pages  are  devoted.  And  so  on  through  the  whole  range  of  viands. 
Exactness,  plainness,  thoroughness,  seem  to  characterize  all  the  author's  teachings. 
No  point  is  neglected,  and  directions  are  given  for  both  necessary  and  luxurious 
dishes.  There  are  chapters  on  cooking  for  invalids,  the  dining-room,  care  of  kitchen 
utensils,  etc.  There  is  also  a  valuable  outline  of  study  for  teachers  taking  tip  the 
chemical  properties  of  food,  and  the  physiological  functions  of  digestion,  absorption, 
nutrition,  etc.  Add  the  miscellaneous  questions  for  examination,  the  topics  and 
illustrations  for  lectures  on  cookery,  list  of  utensils  needed  in  a  cooking-school,  an 
explanation  of  foreign  terms  used  in  cookery,  a  classified  and  an  alphabetical  index, 
— and  you  have  what  must  be  considered  as  complete  a  work  of  its  kind  as  has  yet 
appeared."  —  Mirror,  Springfield,  III.  ^ 


DAY  USE 

RETURN  TO  DESK  FROM  WHICH  BORROWED 
AGRICULTURE  LIBRARY 

40  Gteimini  Hal!  -  Tel.  No.  642-4493 

This  book  is  due  on  the  last  date  stamped  below,  or 

on  the  date  to  which  renewed. 
Renewed  books  are  subject  to  immediate  recall. 


LD21-35m-8,'72 
(Q4189S10)476 — A-32 


General  Library 

University  of  California 

Berkeley 


"•HP 


